Learning how to grow asparagus is simple. Asparagus is a dependable favorite in the home garden. Plants take 2 or 3 years before they are ready to harvest, but then produce tasty spears for the next 10-15 years. Asparagus stalks increase in circumference and number over time — it definitely gets better with age.
I love picking a fresh spear and handing it to garden visitors during asparagus season. Their eyes light up when they taste freshly-picked asparagus for the first time. This is one vegetable that tastes best straight from the garden.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
6 TIPS FOR HOW TO GROW ASPARAGUS
1. Understand the process of how to grow asparagus
Asparagus roots produce individual stalks above ground.
When the stalks are harvested in the spring, this depletes the energy from the roots.
After a period of harvesting, the stalks are allowed to develop into ferns.
Vigorous and healthy ferns in the summer help ensure a good asparagus harvest the next spring. The photosynthesis that takes place in the ferns throughout the summer replenishes the energy of the depleted roots.
The ferns go dormant in winter and turn brown or yellow — at this point, they can be cut back. In cold-winter areas, leave the stalks in place until spring; they help protect the root crowns.
In the spring, shoots appear from the overwintering roots. These stalks grow larger in circumference every year as their life cycle continues.
2. Decide on the best location to plant asparagus
Because asparagus plants produce for several years, they require a dedicated bed for that period of time. Choose a location that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun daily. Avoid windy areas and areas where water puddles.
Use raised beds if possible because asparagus roots become soggy and may rot in clay soil. Asparagus needs rich, well-amended soil that is high in phosphate.
3. Decide whether to plant asparagus seeds or crowns (roots)
It’s easiest to establish asparagus by planting 1 to 2 year old crowns (roots). They produce harvestable stalks about a year after planting.
Asparagus can also be planted from seed. This method is less expensive but it requires a 2 year (or longer) wait and more care for the emerging seeds.
You may also find transplants started from seed at your local nursery.
Asparagus is classified as ‘traditional’ or ‘all male’. ‘All male’ varieties, such as Jersey Giant, Jersey Knight, Jersey Supreme, and Marte, often produce larger spears (and more of them) because they do not have to expend energy into seed production like the ‘traditional’ varieties such as Martha Washington and Purple Passion.
4. Plant asparagus correctly
Plant in early spring in cold-winter areas.In mild-winter climates, plant in the fall or winter. In the low desert of Arizona, start seeds indoors from August – November. Plant transplants outside from November – January.
Prepare the asparagus bed by adding compost and composted manure to create rich soil.
If planting from seed, plant seeds in small containers with potting soil or in the beds. Sow seeds ½ inch deep. Germination takes about 30 days. Transplant plants to the permanent bed when plants are 3 inches tall.
To plant from crowns, dig a 6-inch trench and place dormant roots in it about 12 inches apart. Cover crowns with about 2 inches of soil and gently tamp them down. Add 2 inches of soil every two weeks until the trenches are filled with soil and slightly mounded on top.
5. Wait until the asparagus is large enough before harvesting
For the first year after planting (two if started from seed), do not cut or harvest any stalks. Allow the stalks to go dormant in the fall, and cut back watering or stop completely.
New spears begin to emerge the following spring, and you can harvest any that are at least ¼ inch in diameter. Let smaller stalks grow through the summer to give energy to the roots.
6. Harvest and enjoy asparagus
Harvest spears when they are 6 to 10 inches long, and the tips are firm and tight. Do not harvest spears smaller than ¼ inch thick, and do not harvest the first year. The following year, harvest for 2 weeks. Extend the harvest each year by two weeks until you are harvesting for 6-8 weeks.
Pick asparagus every three days, more often in warm weather. Pick asparagus by snapping off at ground level with your thumb and index finger. You can also cut off just below the soil surface with an asparagus knife or other sharp knife.
Asparagus is delicious when eaten fresh in the garden. Eat or preserve it as soon as possible after picking. You can also store stalks upright in a small amount of water in the fridge.
Timeline for How to Grow Asparagus in the Low Desert of Arizona
January
Cut back dry stalks and amend with 2-3 inches of composted manure and a 2-inch layer of wood chips, straw, or compost. Feed lightly with a balanced organic fertilizer.
Early spring
Harvest stalks that are more than ¼ inch in diameter for 4-6 weeks. Let smaller ones continue to grow.
Late spring
Do not harvest; allow stalks to grow into ferns. Amend the spent bed with a balanced organic fertilizer, 2-3 inches of composted manure, and a 2-inch layer of wood chips, straw, or compost.
Summer / Fall
Water the beds and do not let them dry out. Allow ferns to grow and provide energy for roots.
Winter
Ferns will begin to turn yellow. Cut back watering and allow the asparagus to go dormant.
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Gardening in the low desert of Arizona during July is difficult. Learn how to maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in July and navigate the challenges of hot weather to ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, and what to plant. I’ve also included a helpful “July Garden Task Checklist.”
July is typically the hottest month in the low desert. Monsoons may bring humidity and moisture, but they may not. It’s essential to pay attention to your plants’ watering needs this month. The average temperature is 107°F (41.6°C), and the average rainfall is 1.22 inches. When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.
What To Do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during July:
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
A few keys to gardening during July in the low desert include:
Clear out squash and other plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease to make room for monsoon and fall planting.
Don’t prune or fertilize most plants. Most need to be in summer dormancy to survive. Pruning can expose new areas to sunlight damage, and fertilizing can cause stress.
Bell peppers can get sunburned if fruits get direct sun; provide some shade if scalding is a problem.
Tomatoes may be finishing up. Remove spent or diseased plants. Note which varieties you liked and which did well. If tomato plants still look healthy, let them stay in the garden and keep them alive. They will produce again when temperatures fall.
Cucumber production slows or even stops this month as temperatures heat up. Pull plants if necessary if cucumbers are bitter or pests or diseases are an issue. Plant Armenian cucumbers in their place. Although other cucumbers may not like the heat, Armenian cucumbers thrive all summer.
Pot up any indoor-grown seedlings outgrowing their containers if it is not time to plant them outside. Fertilize indoor-grown seedlings every other watering.
Go through your seeds and plan for fall and winter planting.
Onion blooms have developed seeds. Save them and try growing your own from seed. You can also save bolted parsley and dill seeds.
Possible Harvests This Month:
Roma tomatoes
Harvest crops early in the day when temperatures are cooler, and their moisture content is higher. Bring harvests inside right away to prolong storage life and increase food quality.
Here’s a tip for cucumbers after harvesting: Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the increase storage life and keep cucumbers crisp.
Immersing cucumbers in ice water cools them quickly
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)
Vegetable Watering Guidelines:
Hopefully, monsoon humidity and added moisture will come to the low desert this month. A rain gauge is helpful for measuring how much rain you receive. If you measure .5 inches of rain, check that the rain penetrated your soil and then turn off your water timer. You can also insert a screwdriver into grass or rocks to determine whether to water. If it passes easily into the soil, you can wait to water. Monitor plants for signs of stress and ensure they get enough water and have good drainage.
During hot weather, annual vegetables need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-3 days, allowing the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
During July, I usually water my raised beds every other day.I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller
SUBSCRIBE TO MY GARDEN JOURNAL
Receive exclusive insights directly from my garden to your inbox with “GITG Academy + Low Desert Tips.”
Twice a month, I share my personal garden journal. From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert. As a member, you have access to the past 3 years of garden journals and monthly classes.
Join me, and let’s make your garden thrive under the desert sun!
Low Desert Arizona in July: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month
Monitor plants for pests and diseases. If plants are struggling or overwhelmed with pests, it is often best to remove them rather than treat them. The heat is stressful for plants – they probably won’t recover if they are overtaken.
Damage from leaf-cutter bees
Common Pests During July:
You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.
Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant. This post will teach you more about preventing and controlling squash bugs.
Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.
You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs will take care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them with water.
Spray off beans with water to discourage spider mites
If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
A soapy bucket of water is essential for catching squash bugs and leaf-footed bugs
Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
Other common pests include katydids, crickets, and grasshoppers. Birds and spiders are natural predators.
Milkweed and other seed bugs are common on seed pods and best left untreated; they usually don’t cause damage.
Lovebirds on branching sunflowers in Mesa, Arizona
Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:
Abandoned cicada exoskeletons on a vitex trunk
During July, the hum of cicadas often fills the air. They emerge from the soil and love warm, humid temperatures. Cicadas are Important pollinators and a food source for other animals.
Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves.
Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
Other wildlife may include lizards, hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths.
Keep your chickens cool by providing water for them to stand in. Consider adding a misting stand. Keeping them hydrated with extra cucumbers and watermelon can also help.
Gulf Fritillary caterpillar
Low Desert Arizona in July: Container Gardening Tips
If possible, put small containers away until the fall. Use the soil from the containers as mulch or add to compost.
Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.
Container Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
During July, I usually water my containers every other day and fill up the ollas each time I water. Adding ollas to containers helps with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Arizona gardening in July wouldn’t be the same without sunflowers! I love this branching variety. They are everywhere in my yard, and I love them. There are many reasons to plant sunflowers: they provide shade, can be used as a trellis, attract wildlife and pollinators, and are simple to grow from seed in nearly any spot in your yard.
Rudbeckia attracts pollinators, grows well from seed, and makes an excellent cut flower.
Tithonia is a heat-loving favorite that also makes an excellent cover crop.
Globe Amaranth thrives in the heat with consistent watering. I like to harvest the flowers for cut flowers. I’ve planted them in my flower beds and throughout my garden beds to attract pollinators.
Cut back spent hollyhocks and save the seeds this month. Leave the roots in place.
Zinnias are a champion of Arizona gardening in July. Give them consistent moisture, and enjoy the lovely blooms! They are also excellent cut flowers.
Zinnias growing up through trellis netting for cut flowers
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each flower)
Bee balm
Flower Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Looking for more ideas for flowers that can take the heat of an Arizona summer? This article shares my favorite ones with tips for how to grow them.
Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post. Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day are the best times to do this. However, it is beneficial at any time of year and will not burn plants.
Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests.
Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
Anna’s apple harvests finish up this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
Monitor grapes and blackberries for harvest readiness. Cover to protect from birds if necessary.
Shade newly planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
Grapes
Citrus:
Citrus is developing on all the citrus trees throughout the yard. Last month, the trees self-thinned, and the fruit that is left on the tree is growing well. Citrus trees appreciate the monsoon rains and higher humidity this month.
Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.
Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Grapefruit in July
Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Mrs. Burn’s lemon basil
Lemongrass grows quickly in the heat.
Lightly harvest perennial Herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano. Cutting back too much can be stressful.
Mint doesn’t look great over the summer. When temperatures moderate in the fall it will rebound.
Basil is the champion herb of summer. The more you harvest, the more it will grow. Use it and preserve it by freezing or freeze-drying.
Harvest seeds from bolting parsley, fennel, and dill.
Bolted fennel
Herb Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.
Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.
Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Sparky Tecoma
Prepare for monsoon winds by staking any small trees requiring extra support and properly pruning trees and shrubs. If limbs or branches break, prune back to the main trunk if possible. Learn more about preparing for monsoons in this blog post.
Tecoma is in full bloom and doesn’t mind the heat. Hummingbirds and pollinators love it. This is an excellent addition to an Arizona garden landscape.
Yellow Dot is a vigorous ground cover that grows rapidly in well-drained soil and can grow in full sun or shady areas. It looks great most of the year and provides a living mulch to trees in the summer heat.
Ornamental Sweet Potato Vine is a fast grower available in several colors. Lavish greenery and filler even in the hottest months. This vine is easy to start from cuttings; root in water first and then plant. It’s that simple. Regular watering keeps it lush. Learn more about how to grow sweet potato vine in this article.
July is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
If plants die, don’t replace them. Instead, look around at other plants in your neighborhood growing well for replacement ideas. For desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert. Wait to plant until the fall.
If stinknet sprouts in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread. If the flowers are dried and the plant is dead, remove it carefully— it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert
Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and July is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
If you are considering removing Bermuda grass, July is an excellent time. Learn more in this blog post.
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Low Desert Arizona in July: Flower seeds to start indoors
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Sources:
1 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.
Gardening in the low desert of Arizona during July is difficult. Learn how to maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in July and navigate the challenges of hot weather to ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, and what to plant. I’ve also included a helpful “July Garden Task Checklist.”
July is typically the hottest month in the low desert. Monsoons may bring humidity and moisture, but they may not. It’s essential to pay attention to your plants’ watering needs this month. The average temperature is 107°F (81°C), and the average rainfall is 1.22 inches. When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.
What To Do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during July:
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
A few keys to gardening during July in the low desert include:
Clear out squash and other plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease to make room for monsoon and fall planting.
Don’t prune or fertilize most plants. Most need to be in summer dormancy to survive. Pruning can expose new areas to sunlight damage, and fertilizing can cause stress.
Bell peppers can get sunburned if fruits get direct sun; provide some shade if scalding is a problem.
Tomatoes may be finishing up. Remove spent or diseased plants. Note which varieties you liked and which did well. If tomato plants still look healthy, let them stay in the garden and keep them alive. They will produce again when temperatures fall.
Cucumber production slows or even stops this month as temperatures heat up. Pull plants if necessary if cucumbers are bitter or pests or diseases are an issue. Plant Armenian cucumbers in their place. Although other cucumbers may not like the heat, Armenian cucumbers thrive all summer.
Pot up any indoor-grown seedlings outgrowing their containers if it is not time to plant them outside. Fertilize indoor-grown seedlings every other watering.
Go through your seeds and plan for fall and winter planting.
Onion blooms have developed seeds. Save them and try growing your own from seed. You can also save bolted parsley and dill seeds.
Possible Harvests This Month:
Roma tomatoes
Harvest crops early in the day when temperatures are cooler, and their moisture content is higher. Bring harvests inside right away to prolong storage life and increase food quality.
Here’s a tip for cucumbers after harvesting: Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the increase storage life and keep cucumbers crisp.
Immersing cucumbers in ice water cools them quickly
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)
Vegetable Watering Guidelines:
Hopefully, monsoon humidity and added moisture will come to the low desert this month. A rain gauge is helpful for measuring how much rain you receive. If you measure .5 inches of rain, check that the rain penetrated your soil and then turn off your water timer. You can also insert a screwdriver into grass or rocks to determine whether to water. If it passes easily into the soil, you can wait to water. Monitor plants for signs of stress and ensure they get enough water and have good drainage.
During hot weather, annual vegetables need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-3 days, allowing the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
During July, I usually water my raised beds every other day.I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller
SUBSCRIBE TO MY GARDEN JOURNAL
Receive exclusive insights directly from my garden to your inbox with “GITG Academy + Low Desert Tips.”
Twice a month, I share my personal garden journal. From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert. As a member, you have access to the past 3 years of garden journals and monthly classes.
Join me, and let’s make your garden thrive under the desert sun!
Low Desert Arizona in July: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month
Monitor plants for pests and diseases. If plants are struggling or overwhelmed with pests, it is often best to remove them rather than treat them. The heat is stressful for plants – they probably won’t recover if they are overtaken.
Damage from leaf-cutter bees
Common Pests During July:
You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.
Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.
You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs will take care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them with water.
Spray off beans with water to discourage spider mites
Spider mites are common on beans, especially in hot, dry conditions. Spray the area often with water to discourage them. If you need to treat, a combination of Safer Insect Killing Soap and Monterey Horticultural Oil can be effective. Use at sundown and then rinse the leaves well afterward to prevent burning. Follow package instructions and use sparingly– only on affected areas to prevent harming beneficial insects.
If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
A soapy bucket of water is essential for catching squash bugs and leaf-footed bugs
Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
Other common pests include katydids, crickets, and grasshoppers. Birds and spiders are natural predators.
Milkweed and other seed bugs are common on seed pods and best left untreated; they usually don’t cause damage.
Lovebirds on branching sunflowers in Mesa, Arizona
Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:
Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves.
Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
Other wildlife may include lizards, hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths.
Keep your chickens cool by providing water for them to stand in. Consider adding a misting stand. Keeping them hydrated with extra cucumbers and watermelon can also help.
Gulf Fritillary caterpillar
Low Desert Arizona in July: Container Gardening Tips
If possible, put small containers away until the fall. Use the soil from the containers as mulch or add to compost.
Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.
Container Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
During July, I usually water my containers every other day and fill up the ollas each time I water. Adding ollas to containers helps with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Arizona gardening in July wouldn’t be the same without sunflowers! I love this branching variety. They are everywhere in my yard, and I love them. There are many reasons to plant sunflowers: they provide shade, can be used as a trellis, attract wildlife and pollinators, and are simple to grow from seed in nearly any spot in your yard.
Rudbeckia attracts pollinators, grows well from seed, and makes an excellent cut flower.
Tithonia is a heat-loving favorite that also makes an excellent cover crop.
Globe Amaranth thrives in the heat with consistent watering. I like to harvest the flowers for cut flowers. I’ve planted them in my flower beds and throughout my garden beds to attract pollinators.
Cut back spent hollyhocks and save the seeds this month. Leave the roots in place.
Zinnias are a champion of Arizona gardening in July. Give them consistent moisture, and enjoy the lovely blooms! They are also excellent cut flowers.
Zinnias growing up through trellis netting for cut flowers
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each flower)
Bee balm
Flower Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Looking for more ideas for flowers that can take the heat of an Arizona summer? This article shares my favorite ones with tips for how to grow them.
Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post. Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day are the best times to do this. However, it is beneficial at any time of year and will not burn plants.
Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests.
Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
Anna’s apple harvests finish up this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
Monitor grapes and blackberries for harvest readiness. Cover to protect from birds if necessary.
Shade newly planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
Grapes
Citrus:
Citrus is developing on all the citrus trees throughout the yard. Last month, the trees self-thinned, and the fruit that is left on the tree is growing well. Citrus trees appreciate the monsoon rains and higher humidity this month.
Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.
Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Grapefruit in July
Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Mrs. Burn’s lemon basil
Lemongrass grows quickly in the heat.
Lightly harvest perennial Herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano. Cutting back too much can be stressful.
Mint doesn’t look great over the summer. When temperatures moderate in the fall it will rebound.
Basil is the champion herb of summer. The more you harvest, the more it will grow. Use it and preserve it by freezing or freeze-drying.
Harvest seeds from bolting parsley, fennel, and dill.
Bolted fennel
Herb Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.
Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.
Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Sparky Tecoma
Prepare for monsoon winds by staking any small trees requiring extra support and properly pruning trees and shrubs. If limbs or branches break, prune back to the main trunk if possible. Learn more about preparing for monsoons in this blog post.
Tecoma is in full bloom and doesn’t mind the heat. Hummingbirds and pollinators love it. This is an excellent addition to an Arizona garden landscape.
Yellow Dot is a vigorous ground cover that grows rapidly in well-drained soil and can grow in full sun or shady areas. It looks great most of the year and provides a living mulch to trees in the summer heat.
Ornamental Sweet Potato Vine is a fast grower available in several colors. Lavish greenery and filler even in the hottest months. This vine is easy to start from cuttings; root in water first and then plant. It’s that simple. Regular watering keeps it lush. Learn more about how to grow sweet potato vine in this article.
July is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
If plants die, don’t replace them. Instead, look around at other plants in your neighborhood growing well for replacement ideas. For desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert. Wait to plant until the fall.
If stinknet sprouts in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread. If the flowers are dried and the plant is dead, remove it carefully— it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert
Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and July is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
If you are considering removing Bermuda grass, July is an excellent time. Learn more in this blog post.
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Low Desert Arizona in July: Flower seeds to start indoors
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Sources:
1 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.
From backyard gardens to rooftop terraces, now is the time to play chrysanthemums and cannabis
Spring is here and now is the time for gardeners to emerge and start planting. From backyard gardens to kitchen boxes to rooftop terraces, little seedlings are being dropped in the soil looking to emerge with something good. As you are looking to grow something beautiful and useful, May is the time to plant marijuana and mums. Both are short-day plants and can make your full, medium or mini garden fun.
Both plants require at least 6 hours of full sun, plenty of water, and oxygen rich soil. In addition, planting garden buddies alongside cannabis plants can promote terpenes, repel pests, and disguise unwanted odors. Chrysanthemum flowers contain a chemical called pyrethrin, a natural ingredient found in many pest control products. Pyrethrin causes a disruption in the insect’s nervous system, making these colorful flowers as beneficial as they are attractive. In addition, mums have a scent from there to their daisy family ties. It spreads a spicy fragrance all their own.
Photo by jessicahyde/Getty Images
When you’re ready to plant, begin by soaking the plant – if a seedling (in a 4” pot – in a solution of liquid seaweed or root stimulator. Then dig the planting hole, sprinkle a balanced in a fertilizer and fill with good soil. (Alternatively, you can sprinkle fertilizer around the plant in a ring after planting). Some people swear by fish fertilizer, it is whiny, but can do the job.
Next, prune a few lower leaves off the plant and plant it deep, so the bottom of the stem is under the soil. Additional roots will grow from the stem. Finally, water the plant thoroughly, watering around the base and try keeping water off the leaves.
Next, let them grow and mature, cannabis 57-84 days and marigolds about 45-70 days. Water in the morning and keep tools clean to avoid pests and fungal diseases. Drip irrigation works well to keep water off the leaves.
In the heat of summer, you may need to water twice a day, especially for plants grown in containers. Another important way to keep your mums looking good is to deadhead the spent flowers before they’re completely dead. Monitor plants daily for any appearance of pests or diseases and always use organic sprays or soapy water.
When they have matured, pick and enjoy, knowing you have created this little piece of joy yourself!
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Rosemary, a resilient Mediterranean native, is a beautiful ornamental landscape plant, a prized edible herb, and an excellent companion plant for your vegetable garden. Its heat and drought tolerance make it one of the easiest plants to grow.
Although rosemary is easy to grow, it’s also easy to kill. Learn what to do (and what not to do) when growing rosemary with the tips in this article. Here are five tips to help beginner and experienced gardeners get started growing rosemary.
5 Tips for How to Grow Rosemary
1. Don’t plant it in your garden beds full of rich soil
Rosemary struggles when grown in rich soil. Instead, plant it on the outskirts of your garden in native, slightly alkaline soil with a pH level of around 7. The beautiful purple flowers will attract bees and wildlife to your garden.
Flowering rosemary attracts bees
Well-draining soil is essential for rosemary. This means the soil should be able to drain water quickly, preventing the roots from sitting in water for too long. This plant is susceptible to root rot and other moisture-related conditions, which can turn it yellow, wilt, and eventually lead to its demise. Understanding and providing the right soil conditions is key to maintaining a healthy rosemary plant.
Root rot
Rosemary thrives in full sun and prefers temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C). It tolerates full sun even in Arizona’s low desert.
Rosemary does well in hot, dry conditions
2. Plant from transplant; rosemary is not easily grown from seeds
Growing rosemary from seeds is notoriously tricky. It’s best to plant transplants. When choosing transplants, choose vigorous plants with healthy leaves. Before purchasing, remove the transplant from the container to ensure it is not overgrown or rootbound.
The best time to plant rosemary will vary depending on your location. It is generally recommended to wait until the last frost has passed before planting. Older plants tolerate frost, but young plants like warm soil to help them get established.
Plant rosemary from fall to early spring if you live in a mild winter climate. In the low desert of Arizona, plant rosemary from October to November and from February through April for the best results. Give plants ample time to establish their roots before the summer heat sets in. This low desert planting guide is available in my shop.
Planting guide for the low desert of Arizona
In zones 8 and higher, rosemary is grown as a perennial and can grow large (several feet (1 m) wide and tall ). Give rosemary room to grow.
Live in a humid area? Provide plenty of airflow; don’t crowd (allow 2-4 feet (.6-1.2 m) in every direction), and ensure it has good drainage. In zones 7 and lower, grow in a container and bring it indoors during the winter.
Terra cotta pots are a good choice for growing rosemary in containers. The porous nature of terra cotta allows the plant to dry out between waterings, which helps prevent root rot.
3. Don’t stress over caring for rosemary
Rosemary thrives on neglect, making it a low-maintenance addition to your garden. Water it often until it establishes, then let it do its thing. Just remember to let the soil dry out between waterings and avoid over-soaking. It’s as simple as that! Read this post, “How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates,” for more tips about caring for herbs.
An annual light top dressing of compost or mulch in early spring nourishes the microbial life in the soil. Additional fertilizer is not recommended.
4. Harvest rosemary – but not too much!
It’s best not to prune more than ⅓ of the plant at one time.If desired, prune lightly each spring or fall for shape. This means removing the top few inches of the plant to encourage bushier growth. Cutting back more than that or extensive pruning during the year’s hottest months will stress the plant.
Harvest individual sprigs as needed. Young stems have the freshest flavor. Rosemary flowers have a more subtle flavor than the leaves but are edible and make a beautiful garnish.
If you can grow rosemary year-round, use it fresh; there is no need to preserve it. Young stems have the most flavor. I rarely preserve it. However, you can preserve it by drying, freeze-drying, or freezing.
Strip rosemary leaves before drying and storing. Tostrip leaves from the stem, hold the tip and pull it upward through pinched fingers or a grater.
5. Propagate unlimited rosemary from cuttings
Unlock the potential of unlimited rosemary with propagation. It’s a breeze to propagate in late winter or early spring.
Choose young shoots that aren’t flowering and are 6-8 inches long. Remove the bottom half of the leaves and root in water. Change the water every few days to keep the environment oxygenated and prevent rotting.
After a few weeks, you should notice root hairs forming in the water. Pot up the rooted cuttings when several roots are an inch or more long. It’s an exciting process and fun to grow new plants.
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Are you wondering how far apart to space your plants? This post shares helpful tools and guidelines for plant spacing in square foot gardens.
The first gardening class I attended was about square foot gardening. I soaked it all in and then bought Mel Bartholomew’s “Square Foot Gardening” book. One of the concepts I loved was the simplicity of plant spacing in square foot gardens.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How do you space plants in square foot gardening?
A key factor in being successful with plant spacing in square foot gardening is adding a grid to your garden. Mel Bartholomew said, “If your garden box doesn’t have a grid, it’s not a Square Foot Garden.” His book also emphasized that the grids be “prominent and permanent”. I have come to see the wisdom in this tip.
Why use grids for plant spacing in square foot gardens?
In the past, I had some garden beds with grids and some without grids. After using both, I can say the ones with grids have several advantages:
Garden beds with planting gridsutilize space more efficiently by eliminating the need for rows.
Using a garden grid helps you see exactly where there is space to plant. When I see an empty square, I’m quick to fill it with seeds or plants. In the past, empty spots in beds without grids were often left empty.
Garden grids help an unorganized gardener (like me) be more organized – I don’t have to worry about straight rows.
Following plant-spacing guidelines with garden grids allows for proper spacing between plants. This prevents overcrowding, which causes plants to compete for limited resources of sun, water, and nutrients.
Using garden grids in your garden beds allows for a system of polyculture (several compatible plants growing together) as opposed to monoculture (row after row of the same crop) which is better for pest and disease prevention.
Which type of garden grids should I use for square foot gardening?
Once I realized the benefits of using grids with square foot gardening, I added grids to all of my raised beds. My favorite way to add grids for square foot gardening is with the Garden Grid™ from Garden In Minutes.
Assembly is simple; the garden grids come in preassembled sections that press together by hand in seconds.
At the end of each season, it’s easy to lift the grid off of the bed to add compost to fill the beds. With my previous grids made of wood, it was difficult to add compost because the grids were screwed into the beds.
Each square is watered evenly with 16 water streams, which helps seed germination.
How do I know how many seeds or plants to put in each square?
Now for the fun part – adding plants to your square foot garden. To calculate how many plants or seeds to plant per square, look at the back of your seed packet. Ignore the space between rows, but pay attention to how much space is needed between plants.
For example:
3″ plant spacing = plant 16 in each square.
4″ plant spacing = plant 9 in each square.
6″ plant spacing = plant 4 in each square.
12″ plant spacing = plant 1 in each square.
Some plants (such as melons, large squash, and tomatoes) require more than one square.
Use this tool to space seeds perfectly in your square foot garden.
Plant-spacing guidelines for garden grids
You can also use this plant-spacing guide from Garden In Minutes to easily see how many plants to plant per square.
Plant spacing guide for square foot gardens
Why is plant spacing important in square foot gardens?
Follow the plant-spacing guidelines. Planting the recommended amounts allows you to utilize all the space in the beds without overcrowding. Proper spacing ensures adequate airflow for plants.
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Most shrubs are low-maintenance plants that grow well for years with little attention. However, it is important to start with species well adapted to the local climate and soils. Thousands of shrubs range from dwarfs that hug the ground to tall, tree-like specimens. Before selecting any for your garden, it pays to look around and study those thriving in established landscapes of nearby neighborhoods. Remember that mature shrubs often look very different from their young counterparts sold in pots.
Shrubs are essential to any landscape design. For example, evergreen shrubs are indispensable for vibrant splashes of green during the dreary days of winter.
Other shrubs may mask the base of your house so it does not seem so bare, define your property boundaries, or screen unsightly objects or views. Some shrubs produce such attractive flowers or greenery that you will want to give them a prominent place in your landscape. More than any other group of plants, shrubs are the backbone of a garden.
Shrubs Planting Tips
Check plant tags carefully to determine a shrub’s mature size before you buy it. Stick with low-growing selections for planting near windows or entryways; use larger shrubs farther from your house. Avoid having to prune a shrub to keep it in bounds.
Set out new shrubs when the weather is likely to encourage fast rooting. Early spring is a good time to plant any shrub, but if you live where winters are mild, you may find that fall is better.
Most shrubs develop extensive lateral (horizontal) roots, so dig bowl-shaped planting holes twice as wide as deep. Mix in a 2-inch deep layer of planting mix, compost, or other type of organic matter as you dig.
Take care not to plant shrubs too deeply. Make sure that the topmost roots are covered with about 1/2 inch of soil, but avoid piling soil or mulch up around the main stem. An old recommendation for digging planting holes twice as deep as the rootball is proving incorrect. This can cause plants to sink too deeply as the soil and amendments settle.
Never plant a dry rootball. Always water plants the day before planting and water the ground after setting out a new shrub. When the dampened soil settles, spread a 2- to 3-inch deep blanket of mulch to control weeds and keep the soil moist. Pine needles, shredded bark, or bark nuggets are the most popular mulches for shrubs.
Volga, South Dakota, May 3, 2017 (Newswire.com)
– TractorPal, LLC is pleased to announce the New TractorPal Version 2.0 is now available from the App Store and on Google Play for free.
TractorPal version 2.0 is rebuilt from the ground up on an all new platform to run quicker and add features you wanted.
TractorPal keeps inventory and maintenance records for all agriculture machines and attachments, including cars and trucks. Users are also able to email all records to service dealers or potential buyers. Built by farmers in South Dakota for farmers all over the world, this app will simplify machine care in three ways:
Track Inventory: Log all of large and small machinery and automobiles, including tractors, pickups, lawn mowers, cars, combines, sprayers, loaders, skid loaders, backhoes, attachments, and more. TractorPal can track each item’s serial number, model year, purchase date and price, original miles/hours, and users can even save a picture of items.
Track Service and Receive Reminders: TractorPal simplifies the record-keeping process. TractorPal records each item’s maintenance (e.g., changing oil, filters, tires, and irregular repairs), and will remind users when service is required. Users can even set their own reminder intervals. This app will even record the part numbers used!
Email Records: Ever walk into the dealership and ask for all the filters for a machine, and they ask for a serial number or the part number? Now, all that impossible-to-remember information will be stored in a user’s phone. Just email or show your phone to the parts person; it’s that easy! With the service records at your fingertips, TractorPal makes selling a machine easier, whether the buyer is down the road or across the nation. With TractorPal this information is ready to go. Simply click ‘email report ’ and send.
TractorPal has already been talked about in the USA, Canada, Australia, Netherlands, Ireland, India, South Africa, Denmark, and more. It has also been downloaded over 30,000 times.
