Grow bags are easy to store when not in use. Clean them out by spraying off well, and then fold them up and let them dry.
Unlike most containers, grow bags allow plants’ roots to breathe. Happy roots mean a happy plant. This is one of the biggest advantages of grow bag gardening.
The ability to move grow bags easily to the best location. Look for a sunny spot in cool climates or give them shade in hot climates.
Disadvantages of gardening in grow bags (and what to do about it)
Grow bags require more watering than traditional pots and the soil can dry out quickly.
Larger grow bags can be hard to move when full of soil.
To make grow bags easier to move, choose good quality bags with heavy-duty handles and get help. Be sure of the location before filling it.
Grow bags require more frequent fertilization than raised beds or in-ground beds. Similar to other containers, plants grown in grow bags require more frequent fertilization.
Use a half dose of a liquid fertilizer every few weeks during the growing season for most crops.
Gardener’s Best Potato Grow Bag from Gardener’s Supply
5 Tips for Successful Grow Bag Gardening
A big thank you to Cindy for sharing these pictures of her successful grow bag garden.
1. Choose the right plants to grow in grow bags
Because grow bags limit the size of the roots and available water, some plants are better suited to grow in grow bags than others.
When choosing which plants to grow in grow bags, look for “dwarf” varieties. These are smaller versions of full-size plants that do better in grow bags. Also, select “bush” or “compact” varieties rather than vining types.
Crops that grow well in grow bags include:
Herbs that grow well in grow bags include:
2. Use oyas or self-watering grow bags for thirsty plants
Wondering which size of grow bag to choose? Look at plant spacing guidelines for the plants you would like to grow. The chart below gives general guidelines about the size of grow bag for common vegetables, fruits, and herbs.
When using this mix, the soil remains light and airy; it does not get crusted or compacted. Plants’ roots need oxygen and water, and roots love this mixture.
It is important to fill bags all the way up with soil to take advantage of the room inside the grow bag.
5. Put your grow bag in the best location
A major advantage of gardening in grow bags is the ability to put the bag in the best location based on the sunlight it receives.
A big thank you to Cindy for sharing these pictures of her successful grow bag garden.
Most plants grow best with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. Morning sun is preferred, and a little afternoon shade is ideal, especially if you live in a hot climate.
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Growing onions is so satisfying. However, you may not know what to do when onions bolt. Seeing flower stalks forming on your growing onions can be disheartening.
A bulb on the top center stalk of your onion means it has begun the process of flowering and making seeds. This is called “bolting,” which is terrible news for onion growers.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
What is bolting?
Bolting is the term that describes when a vegetable plant starts to seed or flower before it should. When onions bolt, the bulb part of the onion stops growing and will not mature further. The energy that would make the onion bulb is now directed towards making the flower stalk.
Onions and shallots are a biennial crops, which means that the first year they grow and the second year they flower. When an onion or shallot forms a flower in the first year, it is called bolting.
Why do onions bolt?
An onion bolts in response to stress. Stress can happen in several ways; too hot, too cold, not enough water, or too much water. Temperature fluctuations can cause onions to bolt as well.
Swings in temperature may cause the onion to think it is in the second year of growth when it is supposed to flower.
For example, warm temperatures followed by cool weather can encourage onions to go dormant. Once warm temperatures return, the onion may believe it is beginning its second growing season and produce seeds.
The onion reacts to the stress by putting its energy into reproducing and making seeds.
What should I do when my onions bolt?
Harvest and use (or preserve, see preserving tips below).
Cut off the flower on top, or cut the entire bolting stem, so the onion stops producing seeds. (This won’t restart bulb growth.) You can leave the onion in the ground for a few weeks. The onion won’t continue bulbing or get any larger, but it will “keep” in the ground and can be used later.
Do not wait to harvest until the onion leaves turn brown and fall over (as you do with onions that don’t bolt). Bolted onions may rot or become fibrous if left in the ground too long.
Leave a couple of bolting onions to flower until they produce seeds. Save the seedsto plant next season.
Onion flowers develop into seedsOnion seeds
How do I preserve bolted onions?
Use bolted onions right away, just as you would other onions. Bolted onions will not store well, and you need to preserve them differently than onions that did not bolt.
Here are a few ideas for ways to preserve bolted onions:
Cut up the onions and dehydrate them. Use dehydrated onions whole, or process them into onion powder. Store the dehydrated onions whole for the most robust flavor, and then blend small amounts for powder.
Onions on dehydrating traysDehydrated onions
Slice onions and freeze dry them. (This is my FAVORITE way to preserve onions.) Freeze-dried onions can be stored and used “as is” or processed into a powder. Looking for more information about freeze-drying? Read this post, Freeze Drying Tips for Beginners.
Onions going into the freeze dryerFreeze dried onionsFreeze dried onion powder
What can I do to prevent onions from bolting next time?
You don’t control the weather or other outside conditions that may cause onions to bolt. However, there are a few ways to help prevent bolting in the future.
Choose onions suited to your area. Onions are typically grouped into short, long, and intermediate day onions. Use this map to help determine which type to plant.
Plant at the correct time. Use your local planting guide to determine when to plant.
Onion sets (small bulbs) tend to set more frequently, especially in hot climates. Grow onions from seed or transplant instead.
Onion setsMulti-sown onions from seedOnion transplants
If you would like more information about how to grow onions, read this blogpost.
If this post about what to do when onions bolt was helpful, please share it:
Growing onions is so satisfying. However, you may not know what to do when onions bolt. Seeing flower stalks forming on your growing onions can be disheartening.
A bulb on the top center stalk of your onion means it has begun the process of flowering and making seeds. This is called “bolting,” which is terrible news for onion growers.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
What is bolting?
Bolting is the term that describes when a vegetable plant starts to seed or flower before it should. When onions bolt, the bulb part of the onion stops growing and will not mature further. The energy that would make the onion bulb is now directed towards making the flower stalk.
Onions and shallots are a biennial crops, which means that the first year they grow and the second year they flower. When an onion or shallot forms a flower in the first year, it is called bolting.
Why do onions bolt?
An onion bolts in response to stress. Stress can happen in several ways; too hot, too cold, not enough water, or too much water. Temperature fluctuations can cause onions to bolt as well.
Swings in temperature may cause the onion to think it is in the second year of growth when it is supposed to flower.
For example, warm temperatures followed by cool weather can encourage onions to go dormant. Once warm temperatures return, the onion may believe it is beginning its second growing season and produce seeds.
The onion reacts to the stress by putting its energy into reproducing and making seeds.
What should I do when my onions bolt?
Harvest and use (or preserve, see preserving tips below).
Cut off the flower on top, or cut the entire bolting stem, so the onion stops producing seeds. (This won’t restart bulb growth.) You can leave the onion in the ground for a few weeks. The onion won’t continue bulbing or get any larger, but it will “keep” in the ground and can be used later.
Do not wait to harvest until the onion leaves turn brown and fall over (as you do with onions that don’t bolt). Bolted onions may rot or become fibrous if left in the ground too long.
Leave a couple of bolting onions to flower until they produce seeds. Save the seedsto plant next season.
Onion flowers develop into seedsOnion seeds
How do I preserve bolted onions?
Use bolted onions right away, just as you would other onions. Bolted onions will not store well, and you need to preserve them differently than onions that did not bolt.
Here are a few ideas for ways to preserve bolted onions:
Cut up the onions and dehydrate them. Use dehydrated onions whole, or process them into onion powder. Store the dehydrated onions whole for the most robust flavor, and then blend small amounts for powder.
Onions on dehydrating traysDehydrated onions
Slice onions and freeze dry them. (This is my FAVORITE way to preserve onions.) Freeze-dried onions can be stored and used “as is” or processed into a powder. Looking for more information about freeze-drying? Read this post, Freeze Drying Tips for Beginners.
Onions going into the freeze dryerFreeze dried onionsFreeze dried onion powder
What can I do to prevent onions from bolting next time?
You don’t control the weather or other outside conditions that may cause onions to bolt. However, there are a few ways to help prevent bolting in the future.
Choose onions suited to your area. Onions are typically grouped into short, long, and intermediate day onions. Use this map to help determine which type to plant.
Plant at the correct time. Use your local planting guide to determine when to plant.
Onion sets (small bulbs) tend to set more frequently, especially in hot climates. Grow onions from seed or transplant instead.
Onion setsMulti-sown onions from seedOnion transplants
If you would like more information about how to grow onions, read this blogpost.
If this post about what to do when onions bolt was helpful, please share it:
The prolific vines of Passion Flowers produce elaborate flowers. The vines and flowers of this warm-region perennial vine attract pollinators and are a host plant for Gulf Fritillary Butterflies. Learn how to grow Passion Flower Vine, when to harvest the fruit, and how to save Passion Flower seeds so you can add it to your garden.
Passiflora caerulea, commonly known as the Blue Passion Flower, is a beautiful and exotic vine that can add a unique touch to any garden. While native to South America, it has quickly become a favorite among gardeners everywhere (including me).
Passion Flower Vine (Passiflora caerulea)
This is what Passion Flower Vineflowers look like.
Passion Flower Vine fruit.
How to grow Passion Flower Vine
Passion Flower Vine planting information:
Direct sow seeds or start indoors 6-8 weeks prior to planting in the spring or fall. Plant seeds ¼” deep.
Seeds may take some time to germinate; be patient and keep soil hydrated.
Prefers full sun and deep, well-drained, rich soil.
Moderate moisture requirements can be somewhat drought-tolerant.
Size and spacing details for Passion Flower Vine:
Plant seeds and/or transplants 5 feet (1.5 m) apart.
Grows to 15-30 feet (4.5-9m) tall; provide a trellis for the long vines.
Passion Flower Vine growing tips:
Grows best in full sun. Water deeply. Allow the top several inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Mulch soil well. In my low desert Arizona garden, I provide shade during the hottest months of the year.
What about Gulf Fritillary Caterpillars?
Gulf Fritillary Butterflies love Passion Flower Vines. I love having a garden full of butterflies, and this is one of the reasons I grow this vine. The caterpillars may overtake the vine and cause severe damage. I allow this to happen and don’t intervene.
The Gulf Fritillary Butterfly and the Passion Flower Vine (Passiflora caerulea) share a fascinating yet intricate symbiotic relationship, demonstrating nature’s delicate balance.
The Passion Flower Vine is a host plant to the Gulf Fritillary Butterfly, providing a site for these butterflies to lay their eggs. Though this process may cause damage to the vine, it plays an essential role in the life cycle of the butterfly.
Once the eggs hatch, the emerging larvae feed on the vine. This process, while seemingly destructive, is a crucial part of their growth and development. Despite the harm, the vine often continues to flourish, demonstrating its resilience.
Although the vine is damaged, as the adult butterflies move from flower to flower, seeking nectar, they inadvertently facilitate pollination, helping the plant reproduce. This mutualistic relationship underscores the interconnectedness of ecosystems and the importance of each species’ role in promoting biodiversity.
Passion Flower Vine harvesting tips:
Flowers form first and then develop into fruit. Harvest the fruit when it is yellow or orange in color. The fruit should be soft to the touch. Allow harvested fruit to ripen for a few days at room temperature.
The fruit of the Blue Passion Flower is edible but not especially tasty. We like other varieties of passionfruit much better. My chickens, however, love to eat the fruit. Once harvested, the fruit should be kept in a cool, dry place.
How to save Passion Flower Vine seeds:
Saving Passion Flower seeds
I like saving the seeds from Passion Flower to plant again and share with others. Here’s how to do it:
Extract the Seeds: Start by extracting the seeds from a ripe passion fruit. Cut the fruit open and scoop out the pulp, which contains the seeds.
Begin Fermentation: Place the pulp and seeds into a small, transparent container. Add just enough water to cover the seeds and loosely cover the container. Leave this in a warm place.
Wait for Mold: Over the next 3-7 days, a layer of mold will form on the surface. This is a positive sign as it indicates the fermentation process is underway. The fermentation process helps to break down the hard seed coat and remove any germination inhibitors.
Rinse and Dry: Once the seeds have fermented, rinse them thoroughly under running water using a fine strainer. After rinsing, spread the seeds out to dry in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight.
Store Properly: Store the dried seeds in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to plant them next season. A paper envelope or a glass jar with a good seal works well for storage.
Saving Passion Flower Vine Seeds
Fermenting Passion Flower seeds has several benefits. It mimics the natural process if the fruit fell to the ground and decomposed naturally. The fermentation process can also help to protect the seeds from diseases and improve their overall health. As a result, you will be more likely to have strong, healthy plants in the coming growing season.
Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?
This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one.
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Heat-loving and drought-tolerant strawflowers grow well in areas with hot summers (cue my happy dance!) Brightly-colored concentric rings adorn these tall-stemmed beauties. This Australian native is also called “Everlasting flower” or “paper flower”. Strawflowers are an excellent choice for a cutting garden and provide long-lasting blooms in the garden as well. Learn how to grow strawflowers with these five tips.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Strawflowers
1. Choose the best location for growing strawflowers
Strawflowers grow best in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade. During the hottest months of the year in warm climates like the low desert of Arizona, strawflowers are happiest with some afternoon shade.
Strawflowers do well in most soils as long as it is well-draining. Add compost to the planting area before planting.
Give strawflowers enough room to grow well and allow for airflow. Depending on the variety, strawflowers grow between 2-3 feet (61-91 cm) tall and 6-18 inches (15-45 cm) wide. Larger varieties may need flower stakes to stay upright.
Sprinkle seeds lightly on the soil surface. Press into soil gently. The seeds need light to germinate, do not bury deeply. Keep soil moist until seeds sprout.
Space seeds about 12 inches (30cm) apart.
Seeds sprout in 1-3 weeks.
Strawflower seedlings transplant well. If multiple sprouts appear, allow them to grow a few inches high and then carefully transplant them to other locations in the garden.
In the low desert of Arizona, start strawflower seeds indoors from August through December. Plant seeds or transplants outside from October through February.
In cool zones, start strawflower seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost and transplant outside once nighttime temperatures are above 50°F (10°C).
3. Care for strawflowers correctly as they grow
Mulch plants well to help retain moisture and keep down weeds in the soil.
Water the root zone completely each time you water and then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out between watering. Do not let roots get soggy; they will rot.
Apply an organic fertilizer occasionally throughout the growing season if desired.
Cut the main stem when the flower is 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) tall to encourage branching.
Keep spent flowers deadheaded to encourage more blooms.
4. Harvest strawflowers at the right time for the longest-lasting and best-looking blooms
Strawflowers make an excellent cut flower in fresh and dried arrangements. Depending on their intended use, strawflowers should be harvested at different times.
To harvest strawflowers for use in fresh arrangements:
Harvest strawflowers when 3-4 sets of bracts (petals) are open but before any of the middle pollen is visible. Give the stem a slight wiggle – if it remains upright it is ready to harvest. If it wiggles, wait a bit longer to harvest. Cut the stem leaving 4 to 5 side shoots below. Strip leaves on stem before placing in water.
To harvest strawflowers for drying:
Strawflower petals (called bracts) are like stiff paper and hold their shape and color well as dried flowers. Harvest when only 2-3 bracts (petals) have unfurled and no yellow pollen is visible. Remove all leaves and hang flowers upside down to dry. The bracts will continue to open as it dries. A fan can speed the drying process.
5. Save seeds from strawflowers to plant next season
Once you’ve learned how to grow strawflowers, you can have seeds to plant for years to come. To save seeds, at the end of the season, leave the largest and prettiest blooms on the plant. The center of the bloom elongates and forms dandelion-like parachutes for each seed as it dries. Lift the parachutes up, and the small dark seeds will be attached or in the base of the flower.
The center of the flower elongates and driesDandelion-like parachutes form for each seedThe empty strawflower with just a few seedsStrawflower seeds and parachutes
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How to Grow Strawflowers: 5 Tips for Growing Strawflowers
If you spend time in an Arizona garden in June, bountiful harvests and stunning blooms are common at the beginning of the month. Early June fills harvest baskets as spring and warm-season crops finish up. However, it soon transitions from warm to hot weather, shifting the garden from production to survival.
June is typically the driest and one of the hottest months in the low desert of Arizona. The average monthly rainfall is just 0.12 inches, and the average temperature is 105°F (74°C). This can be a challenging month for your yard and garden as plants and trees adjust to the heat. What you do this month can help your plants survive the hot summer months ahead.
What to do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
Maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in June. Learn how to navigate the challenges of hot weather and ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, what to plant, and a helpful “June Garden Task Checklist“.
When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.
Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during June:
“Low desert” includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
Hot, dry temperatures affect the garden this month. Correct timing, watering, shade, and mulching are essential.
If you haven’t already, add a thick layer (3-5 inches) of mulch to your garden beds. I use the wood chip mulch from Arizona Worm Farm.
Harvest any remaining onions and garlic at the beginning of the month. Cure them indoors.
Use shade cloth to provide shade for annual vegetables or plant them in areas that receive afternoon shade. I use this shade cloth.
If your cucumbers are bitter, it might be the heat. Remove cucumber plants and plant Armenian-type cucumbers this month. They don’t get bitter.
Once nighttime temperatures are over 75°F (24°C), tomato pollen may not be viable and new fruit may not form.1If fruit is slow to ripen, bring tomatoes inside once they have a flush of color to finish ripening indoors. Learn more about how to turn green tomatoes red in this blog post.
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)
Vegetable Watering Guidelines:
June is often the hardest month for plants. Do not overwater or underwater this month. Both are harmful to plants.
If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
As temperatures heat up, annual vegetables will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
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Low Desert Arizona in June: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month
Squash bug eggs, nymph, and adults
Pests:
Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Three-lined potato beetle eggs, larvae, and adult
Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.
You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs took care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them off with water.
You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.
Damage from leaf-cutter bees
If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
Tomato hornworm and frass
Spider mites are common on beans, especially in hot, dry conditions. Spray the area often with water to discourage them. If you need to treat, a combination of Safer Insect Killing Soap and Monterey Horticultural Oil can be effective. Use at sundown and then rinse the leaves well afterward to prevent burning. Follow package instructions and use sparingly– only on affected areas to prevent harming beneficial insects.
Spider mites
Grapeleaf skeletonizers may be present on grape vines. If spotted early, you can handpick affected leaves and dispose of eggs and caterpillars. Once a large area is affected, you may need to treat it with Bt-Bacillus thuringiensis. Use only as directed and only on affected areas.
Grapeleaf skeletonizer eggs and caterpillars
Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
Leaf-footed eggs, nymphs, and adult
Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:
Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves. I love watching them in the garden.
Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
Gulf fritillary butterflies in all stages, swallowtail butterflies, hummingbirds
Bee on a sunflower and swallowtail butterfly
Low Desert Arizona in June: Container Gardening Tips
Put away small pots for the summer
If possible, put small containers away until the fall. The soil from the containers can be used as mulch or added to compost.
Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.
Container Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
Add ollas to containers to help with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
Use ollas and a moisture meter to help you with watering containers
Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
Plant sunflowers. Pops of yellow flowers brighten up a summer yard and attract birds. I love this branching variety.
To extend bloom, deadhead annual warm-season flowers such as zinnias, salvia, coreopsis, gaillardia, marigold,and cosmos. Read this post to learn about flowers that love hot summers.
Roses continue to bloom this month.Keep spent blooms deadheaded and enjoy the blooms.
Enjoy hollyhock blooms. Save seeds to spread around your yard and share with friends. If the plants finish up, don’t pull them out. Cutstalks back to about 6 inches above the ground.
Apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of flowers.
If you aren’t leaving them in the soil, pull spent bulbs or corms from beds after the foliage completely dies. Store indoors and plant again in the fall.
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)
Lisianthus
Flower Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
Peach Tree
If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post.
Peach and fig harvests continue this month. Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests. Read this article for more information about how to grow peach trees.
Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
Anna’s apple harvests begin this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
Monitor grapes for harvest readiness.
Passionfruit flowers and fruits this month.
Shade newly-planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
Figs, grapes, and apples
Citrus:
There will be some citrus fruit drop this month – “June Drop” – as the tree self-thins to what it can support through the summer. Adequate watering this month is important. June is typically the driest month of the year.
Once citrus softens, it is time to remove the remaining fruit from the tree.
Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.
Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Extreme Leaf Curling From Water Stress
Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
Keep basil cut back above two sets of leaves to encourage branching and a full plant.
Allow bolting/flowering dill, cilantro, fennel, and parsley to remain in the garden. This is one of the best ways to attract beneficial insects to your garden; learn more in this blog post.
Harvest perennial herbs like sage, rosemary & thyme lightly throughout the summer. Delay heavy pruning until fall.
Harvest oregano this month. It will flower soon. Enjoy and preserve the harvest by dehydrating or freeze-drying.
Lacewing eggs on dill, parsley seeds, and basil
Herb Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.
Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in June
June is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
This month, do not add plants, trees, or shrubs to your landscape.
Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and June is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
If you have any stinknet in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread or remain in your yard. Remove it carefully if the flowers are dried and the plant is dead—it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
Give landscape plants a long, deep soak at the beginning of the month to prepare them for June’s hot, dry weather. Water should penetrate below the recommended 2-3 foot normal depths to leach the salts that build up in root zones and recharge the dry soil.
Desert-adapted trees, shrubs & vines every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 24-36″ trees / 18-24″ shrubs / 8-12″ vines).
High water use trees every 7-10 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
High water use shrubs every 5-7 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
High water use vines every 2-5 days (water to a depth of 8-12″).
Dwarf Chaste Tree
Arizona Garden in June Checklist:
Download your printable copy of the June Garden Checklist:
Which Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to Plant in the Low Desert in June
(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant
If this post about low desert Arizona gardening in June was helpful, please share it:
Sources:
1 – For further reading, please refer to the original article: “University of Delaware Cooperative Extension. (2023). Key Strategies for Soybean Management.” https://sites.udel.edu/weeklycropupdate/?p=4489.
2 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Rosemary, a resilient Mediterranean native, is a beautiful ornamental landscape plant, a prized edible herb, and an excellent companion plant for your vegetable garden. Its heat and drought tolerance make it one of the easiest plants to grow.
Although rosemary is easy to grow, it’s also easy to kill. Learn what to do (and what not to do) when growing rosemary with the tips in this article. Here are five tips to help beginner and experienced gardeners get started growing rosemary.
5 Tips for How to Grow Rosemary
1. Don’t plant it in your garden beds full of rich soil
Rosemary struggles when grown in rich soil. Instead, plant it on the outskirts of your garden in native, slightly alkaline soil with a pH level of around 7. The beautiful purple flowers will attract bees and wildlife to your garden.
Flowering rosemary attracts bees
Well-draining soil is essential for rosemary. This means the soil should be able to drain water quickly, preventing the roots from sitting in water for too long. This plant is susceptible to root rot and other moisture-related conditions, which can turn it yellow, wilt, and eventually lead to its demise. Understanding and providing the right soil conditions is key to maintaining a healthy rosemary plant.
Root rot
Rosemary thrives in full sun and prefers temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C). It tolerates full sun even in Arizona’s low desert.
Rosemary does well in hot, dry conditions
2. Plant from transplant; rosemary is not easily grown from seeds
Growing rosemary from seeds is notoriously tricky. It’s best to plant transplants. When choosing transplants, choose vigorous plants with healthy leaves. Before purchasing, remove the transplant from the container to ensure it is not overgrown or rootbound.
The best time to plant rosemary will vary depending on your location. It is generally recommended to wait until the last frost has passed before planting. Older plants tolerate frost, but young plants like warm soil to help them get established.
Plant rosemary from fall to early spring if you live in a mild winter climate. In the low desert of Arizona, plant rosemary from October to November and from February through April for the best results. Give plants ample time to establish their roots before the summer heat sets in. This low desert planting guide is available in my shop.
Planting guide for the low desert of Arizona
In zones 8 and higher, rosemary is grown as a perennial and can grow large (several feet (1 m) wide and tall ). Give rosemary room to grow.
Live in a humid area? Provide plenty of airflow; don’t crowd (allow 2-4 feet (.6-1.2 m) in every direction), and ensure it has good drainage. In zones 7 and lower, grow in a container and bring it indoors during the winter.
Terra cotta pots are a good choice for growing rosemary in containers. The porous nature of terra cotta allows the plant to dry out between waterings, which helps prevent root rot.
3. Don’t stress over caring for rosemary
Rosemary thrives on neglect, making it a low-maintenance addition to your garden. Water it often until it establishes, then let it do its thing. Just remember to let the soil dry out between waterings and avoid over-soaking. It’s as simple as that! Read this post, “How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates,” for more tips about caring for herbs.
An annual light top dressing of compost or mulch in early spring nourishes the microbial life in the soil. Additional fertilizer is not recommended.
4. Harvest rosemary – but not too much!
It’s best not to prune more than ⅓ of the plant at one time.If desired, prune lightly each spring or fall for shape. This means removing the top few inches of the plant to encourage bushier growth. Cutting back more than that or extensive pruning during the year’s hottest months will stress the plant.
Harvest individual sprigs as needed. Young stems have the freshest flavor. Rosemary flowers have a more subtle flavor than the leaves but are edible and make a beautiful garnish.
If you can grow rosemary year-round, use it fresh; there is no need to preserve it. Young stems have the most flavor. I rarely preserve it. However, you can preserve it by drying, freeze-drying, or freezing.
Strip rosemary leaves before drying and storing. Tostrip leaves from the stem, hold the tip and pull it upward through pinched fingers or a grater.
5. Propagate unlimited rosemary from cuttings
Unlock the potential of unlimited rosemary with propagation. It’s a breeze to propagate in late winter or early spring.
Choose young shoots that aren’t flowering and are 6-8 inches long. Remove the bottom half of the leaves and root in water. Change the water every few days to keep the environment oxygenated and prevent rotting.
After a few weeks, you should notice root hairs forming in the water. Pot up the rooted cuttings when several roots are an inch or more long. It’s an exciting process and fun to grow new plants.
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Peaches are the ultimate summer fruit – sweet, juicy, and fragrant. But growing them can be challenging, especially if you’re a beginner. The good news is that you can learn how to grow delicious peaches in your garden with some knowledge. Learn how to grow peach trees and grow the best peaches you’ve ever tasted. There’s nothing better than picking a ripe peach from the tree and eating it right in the garden.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
8 Tips for How to Grow Big & Tasty Peaches
1. Choose the right peach variety for your climate
The first step to growing great peaches is selecting the right variety for your areaand climate. Check with local growers and neighbors to see what grows well.
A common misconception when selecting peach trees is assuming that all varieties can grow in any climate. Understanding chill hours plays a significant role in making the decision of which variety of peach tree to plant.
Chill hours are the number of cold hours (usually between 32°F – 45°F / 0°C – 7.2°C) a peach tree needs during its dormant winter period to produce fruit effectively. Each variety has specific chill hour requirements, which, if met, will help the tree blossom and yield fruit optimally.
Start by checking local agricultural extension offices or online resources for the average chill hours in your region. Then, pick a peach variety with chill hour requirements that match your area’s conditions.
Seek out local growers and nurseries that can make this process simple. Avoid purchasing fruit online unless you know it will grow well in your area.
Other considerations when deciding which peach tree to plant:
Plant fruit you enjoy eating! Try to sample the fruit before you buy a tree. (Another reason why purchasing from a local grower is important).
Ensure the tree you purchase is self-fruitful (does not need a different type of tree for pollination) unless you plan on planting both types of trees.
Select small, healthy trees with established grafts and a strong root system.
This fruit planting guide lists the varieties of peaches (and many other types of fruit) that grow well in the low desert of Arizona.
2. Plant your peach tree correctly and in the best location
Peach tree location guidelines:
Enough room to reach maturity (look at the mature size on the plant information tag).
At least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight.
Do not plant in lawn areas.
If you have a peach tree already growing in a lawn area, adjust the watering from shallow, frequent watering to a longer and less frequent watering cycle. This is better for trees and it’s better for the grass too!
Peach tree planting guidelines:
Plant container-grown plants in fall or spring. Bare root trees should be planted in early spring.
Dig a wide, shallow hole just deep enough for the roots.
Backfill the hole with native, unamended soil. Do not amend the planting area. Roots adapt to the soil conditions of your garden.
Do not plant too deeply or bury the graft.
Tamp the soil down and water it well to settle the soil.
3. How to Grow Peach Trees: Learn how to prune your peach tree
Proper pruning helps maintain the tree’s shape and size and prevents common diseases and pest infestations. Consider keeping your fruit trees small and manageable. The book “Grow a Little Fruit Tree” is an invaluable guide for pruning and size management in the home garden.
Key concepts for successful pruning:
Initial Hard Prune: Prune fruit tree to knee high. This keeps the overall size of the tree small.
Early Years: Young peach trees require formative pruning to establish a strong framework and root system. In the first few years, focus on creating an open center shape, removing overcrowded or crossing branches to promote airflow and light penetration.
Winter Pruning: During the tree’s dormant season, prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood and open up the tree’s interior. This helps prevent the spread of diseases and encourages healthy growth in the spring. Remember, peach trees bear fruit on last year’s wood. Keep the number of branches manageable for better quality fruit.
Summer Pruning: Lightly pruning in the summer months helps maintain a manageable tree size and slows the tree’s growth.
Winter pruning
4. Learn how to water your peach tree correctly
Watering your peach tree correctly encourages deep roots and promotes healthy growth.
Young trees need more frequent watering (but less of it) than established trees.
For mature trees, the key is to water deeply but less often. A good rule of thumb is to water your tree about once a week while it’s actively growing and saturate the soil to a depth of at least 18 inches.
Let the soil dry out at a few inches down before you water again. Avoid getting water on the leaves or fruit, which can cause fungal problems.
Adjust the frequency based on rainfall and soil type. Sandy soil may need more frequent watering, while clay soil retains moisture longer. Over-watering can lead to root rot and other diseases while under-watering can stress the tree and hinder fruit production.
Signs of over-watering include yellowing leaves and wilted new growth.
Underwatered trees may have wilting or curling leaves, stunted growth, and reduced fruit size.
Use a hose or drip irrigation system to water at the tree’s drip line, allowing the water to penetrate deeply into the soil. Avoid wetting the foliage to prevent fungal diseases.
Add a layer of organic mulch around the tree (leaving some space around the trunk) to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
5. How to Grow Peach Trees: Fertilize your peach tree as needed
Apply organic fertilizer in late winter or early spring. Give your tree a boost by adding compost and/or worm castings to the soil around the tree anytime during the growing season.
6. Thin the fruit to improve quality
Thinning your peach tree might feel counterintuitive, but trust me; it’s worth it! Properly thinning your peach tree allows the tree to focus its energy on growing fewer, larger peaches. On average, remove up to 75% of the fruit.
Early Thinning: Thin your peach tree as soon as the fruits are about the size of a dime (20 mm). Leave at least 6 inches (15 cm) between each fruit to prevent overcrowding.
Second Round: Check back after a week or two and then thin it again if needed. This ensures the tree isn’t wasting energy on too many small fruits. Allowing it to focus on producing larger, tastier peaches.
Keeping your peach tree pruned to a comfortable height makes it easier to reach and thin the fruit.
Quality Over Quantity: Remember, having fewer but bigger and juicier peaches is better than an abundance of small, hard ones.
Another benefit of keeping peach trees small is that you don’t need a ladder to harvest the fruit. Allow the fruit to ripen on the tree as long as possible. Peaches will soften once picked but won’t get any sweeter. Look for firm but slightly soft fruit, a vibrant color change, and a sweet aroma as indicators that it’s ready to be picked.
The birds often know when the fruit is ripe before we do. To protect your peaches from birds and other animals, consider picking them a little earlier than fully ripe and putting them in a paper sack to let them ripen.
Even with our best efforts, the birds peck a few (or many) peaches from our trees. I feed the pecked peaches to my chickens and also add the pecked peaches to my in-bed vermicomposting bins. The chickens relish the fruity treat, and the worms work their magic, transforming the leftovers into nutrient-rich worm castings.
8. Store and use peaches in a variety of ways
Handle peaches carefully; they bruise very easily. Once ripe, peaches need to be eaten or processed quickly. Putting them in the fridge gives you a couple of extra days before they go bad.
Freezing: To remove the skins, blanch peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds, then transfer to ice water to cool. The skins will slip easily from the peach. Slice and store in airtight containers or freezer bags.
Canning: Prepare a simple syrup (sugar and water), peel and slice peaches, pack them into jars, and cover them with the syrup. Process in a water bath canner according to proper canning guidelines.
Common peach tree diseases and pests can be difficult, but the best way to prevent them is by keeping your tree healthy through proper care. Enough sunlight, proper planting, consistent watering, careful pruning, and overall attentive care for your tree will help it build resilience against diseases like leaf curl, brown rot, and pests like borers or aphids. A healthy, well-maintained peach tree is more likely to withstand these challenges.
Learning how to grow peach trees requires a little effort, but the rewards are well worth it. By choosing the right peach variety for your area, learning how to prune your tree, watering deeply, fertilizing, thinning, and harvesting properly, you can grow delicious, juicy peaches that will make your mouth water.
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Statice blooms are easy to grow, attract beneficial pollinators, and are known for their long-lasting and colorful blooms. If you live in a mild-winter area, it may even become a short-lived perennial. In addition, statice is on many florists’ lists of favorite filler flowers. In this blog, I’ll guide you through how to grow statice from seed all the way to harvesting and using the cut flowers. Let’s get started!
Gulf fritillary butterfly on Apricot Beauty Statice
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
A Little Bit About Statice Flowers:
The cream blooms are the flowers, and the peach petals are calyxes.
The botanical name for statice is Limonium sinuatum, and it is a popular plant in the plumbago family. Statice produces clusters of small, colorful flowers that bloom throughout the summer and fall months.
Statice first forms a large rosette, followed by several thick stems topped with the statice flowers and calyxes.
One of the most attractive features of statice is the long-lasting flowers. The blooms can last for several weeks or even months, depending on the conditions. This makes it a popular choice for cut flower arrangements, dried flower arrangements, and even as a border plant in gardens.
Starting Statice Seeds Indoors:
Transplanting statice (not direct sowing) is recommended. Statice seeds should be started indoors about 6-8 weeks before the planting date in your area.
Read this blog post for more information about how to start seeds indoors.
When to Plant Statice Outside:
In cold-winter areas, transplant statice outside on your last frost date. Mild-winter areas often plant statice in the late fall or early spring.
Dates for planting statice in the low desert of Arizona: Start statice seeds indoors from September – October. Plant statice transplants outdoors from mid-October through November.
Statice covered in frost on a cold January morning in Arizona.
Established statice plants are somewhat frost-tolerant.
How to Plant and Care for Statice as it Grows:
Choose a location with at least 6-8 hours of sunlight and rich, well-draining soil. Amend the planting area with compost if desired. Space the plants 12″-18″ (30-45 cm) apart, and water them lightly after planting.
Statice plants require minimal care once established. Water them deeply every 7-10 days, and ensure the soil is evenly moist but not saturated. Fertilize occasionally with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer meant for flowers. If you aren’t harvesting flowers for cut flowers, deadhead them to encourage new blooms.
Statice plants grow 24″-30″ (60-76 cm) tall and usually don’t require staking.
Harvesting Statice for Cut Flowers:
Harvest statice blooms for cut flowers once they are fully formed and have reached their vibrant color. Cut the flower stems at the base of the plant and remove any leaves or small branches.
Arrange the flowers in a vase with fresh water; they’ll last for weeks.
Statice flowers are perfect for drying and using as dried flowers. The papery texture of statice becomes more pronounced when dried.
To dry statice stems:
Gather the stems into small bunches.
Tie stems together with string, a rubber band, or floral wire.
Hang upside down, allowing adequate spacing between bunches.
Drying time varies due to the length of stems and conditions. Decrease drying time by increasing temperature or adding air movement with a fan.
How to Use Statice Flowers in Arrangements:
Statice blooms look beautiful alone or when paired with other flowers in a bouquet or arrangement. They add a pop of color and texture to floral designs and are perfect for adding height and structure. Statice flowers can also be used in wreaths and dried arrangements.
This post shares tips and tricks for making beautiful flower arrangements from the garden.
How Long Does Statice Last in the Garden?
Although usually grown as an annual, statice plants can last several seasons in the garden in mild-winter climates. The most abundant blooms will be from early spring through summer.
Learning how to grow statice is a fun and rewarding gardening project. From planting seeds indoors to harvesting cut flowers, statice is a low-maintenance plant that adds color and beauty to any garden bed or floral arrangement. Happy gardening!
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In the low desert of Arizona, creating a fruitful food forest all year round is possible with the right knowledge and plant selection. Imagine stepping into your backyard to find a variety of ready-to-pick fruits each season. This guide will help you learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona.
Figs
Ideally, a food forest provides an abundance of fresh produce, with the possibility of picking fruit every day of the year. Here’s how to achieve a year-round fruit tree harvest in climates with milder winters, such as the low desert of Arizona.
Peaches
Food Forest Benefits
A food forest is more than just a garden; it’s a thriving ecosystem that offers a sustainable approach to agriculture. Unlike traditional orchards, food forests layer plants in a way that maximizes space and encourages symbiotic relationships. From the canopy to the herbaceous layer, every square inch is designed for productivity and health.
Citrus
The benefits of growing a food forest are immense – increased biodiversity, improved soil fertility, and a daily supply of fresh produce from your backyard. This blog post explains how to start a food forest.
Choosing the Right Perennial Fruit Trees to Plant for Year-Round Harvests
Anna apples
Understanding Chill Hours:
To begin, select fruit trees suitable for your climate. An important consideration is ‘chill hours.’ Chill hours are the cumulative number of hours that temperatures remain between 32-45°F (0-7°C) during a tree’s dormant winter period. This chilling period is critical for many fruit trees, as it influences blossom and fruit development.
In the low desert areas of Arizona, where winters are mild, making the right choice based on chill hours can make or break your harvest. Aim for trees requiring no more than 400 chill hours, but to play it safe, I often go for those in the 250 to 300 range. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.
You can find chill hours information through your local agricultural extension office or online chill hours calculators specific to your region.
Wonderful pomegranates
Once you’ve got those numbers, pick fruit tree varieties that match your chill hours. Buy trees from local, reputable growers. The growers often have years of experience and can point you toward the trees that will do best in your backyard.
Understanding USDA Hardiness Zones
Bananas
When deciding what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests, knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone is key—it is a guide to knowing which trees will survive winter temperatures in your area. For instance, if you’re in a zone with mild winters like Zone 9 or 10, you’re in luck for growing a citrus grove. Learn more about how to grow citrus in this blog post.
Food Forest Design for Year-Round Harvests
Similar to designing a raised bed garden, strategic planning is essential for designing your food forest for year-round productivity. Aim to plant trees that fruit at different times, ensuring a continuous yield. Knowing when each plant produces fruit helps you plan and enjoy your garden. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post.
Pomegranates
Harvest Times for Various Perennial Fruit Trees in the Low Desert of Arizona
Lemons
Winter Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (January – March Harvests)
Possum Purple Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
Fwang Tung Carambola (also fruits at the end of summer)
Kumquats (through March)
Mandarins & Tangerines (November – January)
Eureka Lemon
Lisbon Lemon
Bearss Lime
Most Sweet Oranges (December – February)
Pomegranates
These are general timeframes, and microclimate conditions may influence actual harvest times.
Maintenance and Care of Perennial Fruit Trees
Caring for your food forest requires knowledge of pruning, soil management, and natural pest control.
Feeding fruit trees with compost
Enjoy the Process of Creating Your Food Forest
When you create a food forest and plan for a never-ending harvest, remember that the journey can be as fulfilling as the fruits of your labor. Whether you love gardening or are interested in permaculture, a food forest represents nature’s resilience and abundance.
Guavas
Note:
This article was specifically crafted for those living in mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, focusing on plants that thrive there. For tailored advice for different climates, adjusting your plant choices accordingly would be essential.
Peaches
Reliable Sources for Your Food Forest Journey
Anna apples
When venturing into the creation of a food forest, it’s crucial to arm yourself with knowledge from trustworthy sources. Here are a few to consider:
Native Plant Societies: Join your local chapter to learn which indigenous plants can be incorporated into your food forest while supporting local ecology.
Local Nurseries and Growers: Local growers know plants in your area better than anyone. Their insight is indispensable for choosing the right trees.
“Gaia’s Garden“ by Toby Hemenway – This book changed how I think about gardening harmoniously with nature.
In the low desert of Arizona, creating a fruitful food forest all year round is possible with the right knowledge and plant selection. Imagine stepping into your backyard to find a variety of ready-to-pick fruits each season. This guide will help you learn what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests in Arizona.
Figs
Ideally, a food forest provides an abundance of fresh produce, with the possibility of picking fruit every day of the year. Here’s how to achieve a year-round fruit tree harvest in climates with milder winters, such as the low desert of Arizona.
Peaches
Food Forest Benefits
A food forest is more than just a garden; it’s a thriving ecosystem that offers a sustainable approach to agriculture. Unlike traditional orchards, food forests layer plants in a way that maximizes space and encourages symbiotic relationships. From the canopy to the herbaceous layer, every square inch is designed for productivity and health.
Citrus
The benefits of growing a food forest are immense – increased biodiversity, improved soil fertility, and a daily supply of fresh produce from your backyard. This blog post explains how to start a food forest.
Choosing the Right Perennial Fruit Trees to Plant for Year-Round Harvests
Anna apples
Understanding Chill Hours:
To begin, select fruit trees suitable for your climate. An important consideration is ‘chill hours.’ Chill hours are the cumulative number of hours that temperatures remain between 32-45°F (0-7°C) during a tree’s dormant winter period. This chilling period is critical for many fruit trees, as it influences blossom and fruit development.
In the low desert areas of Arizona, where winters are mild, making the right choice based on chill hours can make or break your harvest. Aim for trees requiring no more than 400 chill hours, but to play it safe, I often go for those in the 250 to 300 range. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, this fruit planting guide lists several options that grow well.
You can find chill hours information through your local agricultural extension office or online chill hours calculators specific to your region.
Wonderful pomegranates
Once you’ve got those numbers, pick fruit tree varieties that match your chill hours. Buy trees from local, reputable growers. The growers often have years of experience and can point you toward the trees that will do best in your backyard.
Understanding USDA Hardiness Zones
Bananas
When deciding what to plant for year-round fruit tree harvests, knowing your USDA Hardiness Zone is key—it is a guide to knowing which trees will survive winter temperatures in your area. For instance, if you’re in a zone with mild winters like Zone 9 or 10, you’re in luck for growing a citrus grove. Learn more about how to grow citrus in this blog post.
Food Forest Design for Year-Round Harvests
Similar to designing a raised bed garden, strategic planning is essential for designing your food forest for year-round productivity. Aim to plant trees that fruit at different times, ensuring a continuous yield. Knowing when each plant produces fruit helps you plan and enjoy your garden. Learn how to plant fruit trees in this blog post.
Pomegranates
Harvest Times for Various Perennial Fruit Trees in the Low Desert of Arizona
Lemons
Winter Fruits for an Arizona Food Forest (January – March Harvests)
Possum Purple Passion Fruit (also fruits at the end of summer)
Fwang Tung Carambola (also fruits at the end of summer)
Kumquats (through March)
Mandarins & Tangerines (November – January)
Eureka Lemon
Lisbon Lemon
Bearss Lime
Most Sweet Oranges (December – February)
Pomegranates
These are general timeframes, and microclimate conditions may influence actual harvest times.
Maintenance and Care of Perennial Fruit Trees
Caring for your food forest requires knowledge of pruning, soil management, and natural pest control.
Feeding fruit trees with compost
Enjoy the Process of Creating Your Food Forest
When you create a food forest and plan for a never-ending harvest, remember that the journey can be as fulfilling as the fruits of your labor. Whether you love gardening or are interested in permaculture, a food forest represents nature’s resilience and abundance.
Guavas
Note:
This article was specifically crafted for those living in mild winter climates like the low desert of Arizona, focusing on plants that thrive there. For tailored advice for different climates, adjusting your plant choices accordingly would be essential.
Peaches
Reliable Sources for Your Food Forest Journey
Anna apples
When venturing into the creation of a food forest, it’s crucial to arm yourself with knowledge from trustworthy sources. Here are a few to consider:
Native Plant Societies: Join your local chapter to learn which indigenous plants can be incorporated into your food forest while supporting local ecology.
Local Nurseries and Growers: Local growers know plants in your area better than anyone. Their insight is indispensable for choosing the right trees.
“Gaia’s Garden“ by Toby Hemenway – This book changed how I think about gardening harmoniously with nature.
The prolific vines of Passion Flowers produce elaborate flowers. The vines and flowers of this warm-region perennial vine attract pollinators and are a host plant for Gulf Fritillary Butterflies. Learn how to grow Passion Flower Vine, when to harvest the fruit, and how to save Passion Flower seeds so you can add it to your garden.
Passiflora caerulea, commonly known as the Blue Passion Flower, is a beautiful and exotic vine that can add a unique touch to any garden. While native to South America, it has quickly become a favorite among gardeners everywhere (including me).
Passion Flower Vine (Passiflora caerulea)
This is what Passion Flower Vineflowers look like.
Passion Flower Vine fruit.
How to grow Passion Flower Vine
Passion Flower Vine planting information:
Direct sow seeds or start indoors 6-8 weeks prior to planting in the spring or fall. Plant seeds ¼” deep.
Seeds may take some time to germinate; be patient and keep soil hydrated.
Prefers full sun and deep, well-drained, rich soil.
Moderate moisture requirements can be somewhat drought-tolerant.
Size and spacing details for Passion Flower Vine:
Plant seeds and/or transplants 5 feet (1.5 m) apart.
Grows to 15-30 feet (4.5-9m) tall; provide a trellis for the long vines.
Passion Flower Vine growing tips:
Grows best in full sun. Water deeply. Allow the top several inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Mulch soil well. In my low desert Arizona garden, I provide shade during the hottest months of the year.
What about Gulf Fritillary Caterpillars?
Gulf Fritillary Butterflies love Passion Flower Vines. I love having a garden full of butterflies, and this is one of the reasons I grow this vine. The caterpillars may overtake the vine and cause severe damage. I allow this to happen and don’t intervene.
The Gulf Fritillary Butterfly and the Passion Flower Vine (Passiflora caerulea) share a fascinating yet intricate symbiotic relationship, demonstrating nature’s delicate balance.
The Passion Flower Vine is a host plant to the Gulf Fritillary Butterfly, providing a site for these butterflies to lay their eggs. Though this process may cause damage to the vine, it plays an essential role in the life cycle of the butterfly.
Once the eggs hatch, the emerging larvae feed on the vine. This process, while seemingly destructive, is a crucial part of their growth and development. Despite the harm, the vine often continues to flourish, demonstrating its resilience.
Although the vine is damaged, as the adult butterflies move from flower to flower, seeking nectar, they inadvertently facilitate pollination, helping the plant reproduce. This mutualistic relationship underscores the interconnectedness of ecosystems and the importance of each species’ role in promoting biodiversity.
Passion Flower Vine harvesting tips:
Flowers form first and then develop into fruit. Harvest the fruit when it is yellow or orange in color. The fruit should be soft to the touch. Allow harvested fruit to ripen for a few days at room temperature.
The fruit of the Blue Passion Flower is edible but not especially tasty. We like other varieties of passionfruit much better. My chickens, however, love to eat the fruit. Once harvested, the fruit should be kept in a cool, dry place.
How to save Passion Flower Vine seeds:
Saving Passion Flower seeds
I like saving the seeds from Passion Flower to plant again and share with others. Here’s how to do it:
Extract the Seeds: Start by extracting the seeds from a ripe passion fruit. Cut the fruit open and scoop out the pulp, which contains the seeds.
Begin Fermentation: Place the pulp and seeds into a small, transparent container. Add just enough water to cover the seeds and loosely cover the container. Leave this in a warm place.
Wait for Mold: Over the next 3-7 days, a layer of mold will form on the surface. This is a positive sign as it indicates the fermentation process is underway. The fermentation process helps to break down the hard seed coat and remove any germination inhibitors.
Rinse and Dry: Once the seeds have fermented, rinse them thoroughly under running water using a fine strainer. After rinsing, spread the seeds out to dry in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight.
Store Properly: Store the dried seeds in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to plant them next season. A paper envelope or a glass jar with a good seal works well for storage.
Saving Passion Flower Vine Seeds
Fermenting Passion Flower seeds has several benefits. It mimics the natural process if the fruit fell to the ground and decomposed naturally. The fermentation process can also help to protect the seeds from diseases and improve their overall health. As a result, you will be more likely to have strong, healthy plants in the coming growing season.
Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?
This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one.
If this post about how to grow Passion Flower Vine was helpful, please share it:
The prolific vines of Passion Flowers produce elaborate flowers. The vines and flowers of this warm-region perennial vine attract pollinators and are a host plant for Gulf Fritillary Butterflies. Learn how to grow Passion Flower Vine, when to harvest the fruit, and how to save Passion Flower seeds so you can add it to your garden.
Passiflora caerulea, commonly known as the Blue Passion Flower, is a beautiful and exotic vine that can add a unique touch to any garden. While native to South America, it has quickly become a favorite among gardeners everywhere (including me).
Passion Flower Vine (Passiflora caerulea)
This is what Passion Flower Vineflowers look like.
Passion Flower Vine fruit.
How to grow Passion Flower Vine
Passion Flower Vine planting information:
Soak seeds for 24 hours and direct sow or start indoors 6-8 weeks prior to planting in the spring or fall. Plant seeds ¼” deep.
Prefers full sun and deep, well-drained, rich soil.
Moderate moisture requirements can be somewhat drought-tolerant.
Size and spacing details for Passion Flower Vine:
Plant seeds and/or transplants 5 feet (1.5 m) apart.
Grows to 15-30 feet (4.5-9m) tall; provide a trellis for the long vines.
Passion Flower Vine growing tips:
Grows best in full sun. Water deeply. Allow the top several inches of soil to dry out before watering again. Mulch soil well. In my low desert Arizona garden, I provide shade during the hottest months of the year.
What about Gulf Fritillary Caterpillars?
Gulf Fritillary Butterflies love Passion Flower Vines. I love having a garden full of butterflies, and this is one of the reasons I grow this vine. The caterpillars may overtake the vine and cause severe damage. I allow this to happen and don’t intervene.
The Gulf Fritillary Butterfly and the Passion Flower Vine (Passiflora caerulea) share a fascinating yet intricate symbiotic relationship, demonstrating nature’s delicate balance.
The Passion Flower Vine is a host plant to the Gulf Fritillary Butterfly, providing a site for these butterflies to lay their eggs. Though this process may cause damage to the vine, it plays an essential role in the life cycle of the butterfly.
Once the eggs hatch, the emerging larvae feed on the vine. This process, while seemingly destructive, is a crucial part of their growth and development. Despite the harm, the vine often continues to flourish, demonstrating its resilience.
Although the vine is damaged, as the adult butterflies move from flower to flower, seeking nectar, they inadvertently facilitate pollination, helping the plant reproduce. This mutualistic relationship underscores the interconnectedness of ecosystems and the importance of each species’ role in promoting biodiversity.
Passion Flower Vine harvesting tips:
Flowers form first and then develop into fruit. Harvest the fruit when it is yellow or orange in color. The fruit should be soft to the touch. Allow harvested fruit to ripen for a few days at room temperature.
The fruit of the Blue Passion Flower is edible but not especially tasty. We like other varieties of passionfruit much better. My chickens, however, love to eat the fruit. Once harvested, the fruit should be kept in a cool, dry place.
How to save Passion Flower Vine seeds:
Saving Passion Flower seeds
I like saving the seeds from Passion Flower to plant again and share with others. Here’s how to do it:
Extract the Seeds: Start by extracting the seeds from a ripe passion fruit. Cut the fruit open and scoop out the pulp, which contains the seeds.
Begin Fermentation: Place the pulp and seeds into a small, transparent container. Add just enough water to cover the seeds and loosely cover the container. Leave this in a warm place.
Wait for Mold: Over the next 3-7 days, a layer of mold will form on the surface. This is a positive sign as it indicates the fermentation process is underway. The fermentation process helps to break down the hard seed coat and remove any germination inhibitors.
Rinse and Dry: Once the seeds have fermented, rinse them thoroughly under running water using a fine strainer. After rinsing, spread the seeds out to dry in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight.
Store Properly: Store the dried seeds in a cool, dry place until you’re ready to plant them next season. A paper envelope or a glass jar with a good seal works well for storage.
Saving Passion Flower Vine Seeds
Fermenting Passion Flower seeds has several benefits. It mimics the natural process if the fruit fell to the ground and decomposed naturally. The fermentation process can also help to protect the seeds from diseases and improve their overall health. As a result, you will be more likely to have strong, healthy plants in the coming growing season.
Are you looking for more information about how to grow vines?
This Arizona Vine Planting Guide shares some of my favorite vines that grow well in Arizona and gives growing and planting details for each one.
If this post about how to grow Passion Flower Vine was helpful, please share it:
Living in a mild-winter climate means that you may try to push the boundaries of what can be grown throughout winter. Frost and cold weather can come on quickly, and knowing what to cover in a freeze can mean the difference between life and death for some of your plants. Be prepared by gathering needed items like frost cloth and burlap before a freeze hits.
This article shares tips for protecting your warm-climate garden from freezing temperatures, such as knowing the most common times for frost, utilizing effective plant placement in your garden, and knowing what to have on hand to protect plants. These tips will give your garden the best chance of surviving freezing temperatures.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
6 Tips for Protecting Your Warm-Climate Garden from Freezing Temperatures
1. Learn when to expect freezing temperatures
An essential tool in knowing when freezing temperatures are most likely is knowing your first and last frost dates. You can look them up here using your zip code if you live in the United States.
Frost is most likely on clear, calm nights with few clouds and low humidity. Cold winds will also decrease the temperature.
During the day, the soil is warmed by the sun, and that heat is radiated throughout the night. So, the coldest temperatures of the night will occur just before dawn.
Use a minimum/maximum thermometer to measure your local temperature accurately. The reading on the weather app on your phone may not be accurate for your yard.
Light freeze: 29°F to 32°F (-1.6°C to 0°C). Tender plants are often killed.
Moderate freeze: 25°F to 28°F (-3.88°C to -2.22°C) causes damage to many plants.
Severe freeze: 24°F (-4.44°C) and colder – causes heavy damage to many plants.
2. Choose the best location in your yard for frost-tender plants
Cold air moves downslope and settles in the lowest spots. The cold spots in your yard are good for planting fruit trees that need chill hours and other cold-loving plants.
Plant frost-tender trees and plants in the warmest areas of your yard. An area with a western or southern exposure with reflected heat from a block wall will be warmer than other areas in your landscape. The heat absorbed by a block wall throughout the day will radiate during the night.
3. Understand what makes a plant have frost damage
Frost on a plant disrupts the movement of fluids within the plant and dries it out, leaving behind brown and crispy damage.
Some factors that make plants more or less susceptible to damage from freezing temperatures include:
Dormancy — A plant that is dormant will have less damage than a tree or plant that is actively growing. This is why a sudden frost early in the season will often do more damage than a frost later in the season after plants have adjusted to colder temperatures.
Watering — Well-watered plants withstand freezing temperatures better than dehydrated plants. The water in the soil also helps to insulate the soil.
Pruning — Newly-pruned areas of the plant are more susceptible to frost damage.
Newly planted — Less-established root systems of new plants are more likely to be damaged by frost.
Plants in containers — Container-grown plants are subject to higher fluctuations in temperature than in-ground plants. They are more likely to suffer damage in a freeze.
Lower temperatures, longer exposure to freezing temperatures, and rapid drops in temperature cause more damage.
Frost-damaged pepper plant
4. What to cover in a freeze and what not to cover during a freeze
Cold weather signals the end of the life cycle for many annual plants. In warm-climate areas like the low desert of Arizona, providing protection from freezing temperatures may prolong the growing season.
Peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, and basil are a few plants that, if protected from a freeze, may continue to produce and grow. Other tender plants will need to be replanted in the spring.
What to cover in a freeze: Tender — injured by a light frost (cover during a freeze or harvest before cold temperatures).
What to cover in a freeze: Protecting citrus during a freeze
Frost-damaged citrus
Freezing weather can cause severe damage to citrus trees.
Young trees are more susceptible to frost damage. Cover citrus during a freeze for the first 3-5 years after planting.
Fruit damage may occur after several hours of temperatures below 27°F (-2.7°C). Frost-damaged fruit will have a dry interior.
Wait until after the danger of frost has passed in the spring to prune frost-damaged limbs and branches.
Some citrus trees are more cold-hardy than others.
Kumquat and mandarin trees are most cold-hardy (18°F – 20℉) or (-7.7°C to -6.6°C).
Grapefruit and orange trees (tolerate to Mid 20’s℉ ) (-3.88°C)
Lemon, and especially lime trees, are the most frost-sensitive, often suffering damage at 32℉ (0°C). They are extremely frost-sensitive; choose the warmest areas of your yard for planting. Lemon and lime trees often do not go into dormancy, so frost affects them more than other citrus.
What to cover in a freeze: Frost-tender landscape plants
Frost-damaged coral vine
Many tender landscape plants will recover from light frosts but have unsightly damage if you don’t cover them. Covering tender landscape plants during a freeze may prevent damage. Don’t prune frost-damaged plants until after the danger of frost has passed in the spring.
Cover these plants during a freeze to prevent damage:
Frost-tender landscape plants include (but are not limited to): bougainvillea, some cacti, cape honeysuckle, coral vine, fairy dusters, ficus, hibiscus, lantana, natal plum, myoporum, pygmy date palms, succulents, tropical plants (avocado, banana, guava, etc.), yellow bells.
Cover the plant completely, allowing the cover to drape down to the soil all around the plant. This traps the warmth inside. Don’t gather the cover around the trunk; it won’t trap radiated heat from around the plant.
Wrap trunks of frost-sensitive trees and young trees loosely with multiple layers of cloth. This can be left in place all winter.
Use styrofoam cups to protect the growing tips of cactus.
Add heat by wrapping heat-generating light bulbs(not LED) below the foliage of the covered plants. Take care not to have bulbs burn the bark or branches.
Remove sheets or blankets in the morning after the frost thaws. Dormant plants can be brought out of dormancy by keeping the plant covers on and trapping the heat during the day. Actively-growing plants are more likely to suffer frost damage than dormant plants.
Frost cloth can be left in place for several days without harming the plant.
Cover newly planted citrus during a freeze
I put burlap on my newly planted citrus
6. What to do after a frost
Did your perennial plants suffer frost damage? Don’t prune them right away. The damaged limbs and branches protect the plant from further frost damage.
Before pruning, wait until the danger of frost is past in the spring and you begin to see new growth. Prune back to just before where the new growth begins.
Severely damaged tomatoes, peppers, and other annual plants may need removal.
