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Tag: plaits & braids

  • I discovered my new favourite protective hairstyle on a recent trip to Ghana

    I discovered my new favourite protective hairstyle on a recent trip to Ghana

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    During my recent trip back home to Ghana, as I sat in my favourite salon in Accra, I noticed every other client in the room is getting French curl braids. Also known as ‘Nollywood braids’, this regal style of box braids starts with neatly parted thin braids and cascades into voluminous curls at the end.

    “The appeal [of this style] is the silky, bouncy look of the braids, not to mention they are lightweight,” says Nigerian content creator, hairstylist, and owner of Chi’s Luxe Braiding hair Chinyere “Chi-Chi” Adogu. And the style’s popularity extends well beyond Accra and Lagos: The braids are dominating TikTok with millions of fans (278.7 million views on the #frenchcurl braids and 4.6 million views on the #nollywoodbraids, to be exact).

    I should note that the look isn’t brand new but rather in its comeback era after its prime in the ‘90s and early noughties. Brooklyn-based braider Helena Koudou remembers the style as “Yaki Pony Braids” back when stars like Brandy frequently wore the look in the early 2000s. Around that time, it was also a go-to style for Nigerian actresses in Nollywood movies, which is how it got the name Nollywood braids.

    Ese Eboigbe

    Woman posing in pink French curl braids hairstyle

    Chinyere “Chi-Chi” Adogu

    The Nollywood style started slowly making its way back to the wider spotlight in 2022, after already resurfacing on crowns in West Africa. Adogu recalls being in Nigeria two years ago and “seeing all the women in silky curly braids.” Koudou noticed this too and anticipated the trend would make its way abroad. “I bought French curl hair in the Ivory Coast in December of 2022 to bring back to New York and a couple of months later people started requesting the style,” says Koudou. The trend died down in the middle of 2023 but now that African diasporas have made their way back to the states after the holidays, French curl braids are back in demand at the top of 2024.

    Temi Otedola wearing black French curl braids

    Getty Images

    What type of hair is used for French curl braids?

    This style is all about the voluminous curly ends, using synthetic hair ensures that the bouncy curls will hold their shape no matter the weather or wear time. Specialised boutiques like Chi’s Luxe Braiding Hair (which exclusively sells French curl braiding hair) have mastered a synthetic blend that looks and feels like human hair. But, there’s plenty of sellers on Amazon who also sell French curl braiding hair specifically.

    The number of packs needed for a style always depends on the size and length of the braids and the amount of hair that’s in a pack, Koudou explains. If you’re getting your French curl braids in a small size (one-inch wide braids) down to the middle of your back, five to eight packs are enough for the whole head. Koudou suggests checking if your salon offers French curl braiding hair (especially if you’re opting for a blended colour like honey blonde). Amazon offers a variety of options like WoWCFyyds French Curl Braiding hair in chocolate and caramel and Xtrend French Curly Braiding Hair in on trend cherry cola.

    What to expect during an appointment for French curl braids

    Like most protective styles, French curl braids stay in for a few weeks so it’s important that your scalp is clean and your hair is moisturised before being tucked away. Some stylists offer a pre-styling service, but if that’s not an option for you, be sure to arrive at your appointment with freshly-washed, blow-dried hair.

    The style can take anywhere from four to seven hours to complete. The session will start with the stylist parting and braiding your hair, feeding in pieces of braiding hair until you reach your desired length. If you’re attempting this style at home, it’s important to tie a knot where you decide to stop braiding and let the curl loose to ensure the braid doesn’t unravel. Other box braid styles — like boho braids — require dipping the hair in hot water to loosen the hair or activate the curl pattern but you can skip that step with French curl braids since the hair already comes in the final curl pattern. Dipping it in hot water could ruin the hair.

    How long do French curl braids last?

    Expect your French curl braids to last up to six weeks with proper maintenance. The age of your braids will start to show first in the loose curls. To avoid tangling and matting, Koudou recommends spraying the ends with water and brushing the hair out lightly.

    To help extend the wear of the style, you’ll want to follow a simple night time routine: “Before bed, twist the hair into two pigtails before putting on your bonnet. This will help the curls last longer,” says Koudou.

    This feature originally appeared on Allure.

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    Annie Blay

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  • Boho braids are TikTok's favourite protective hairstyle – and we can see why

    Boho braids are TikTok's favourite protective hairstyle – and we can see why

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    Before, stars wore the style in waves and even long, straight wispy layers (Beyoncé was the Queen of this, circa 2003). Now the texture is almost always curly, which blends with the braids more easily than straight pieces would.

    Boho braids also mainly use human hair, whereas pick-and-drop featured synthetic hair. These braids are one of the most popular ways to get flowing hair extensions that look natural. And by using human hair, there is newfound versatility. According to Sims, the look can be styled with heat and there is less matting. If you’re partial to synthetic hair, Runata says you can still use it, but it works best in just the braids, and not the loose hair.

    What to know before you get Boho braids

    If you want a really professional finish and to avoid too much hair breakage, this protective style should be reserved for the salon. Rutana explains the look requires a high skill level. “I use a knotless technique, so it’s easy on your natural hair to ensure there’s not as much breakage,” she says, which it isn’t easy to do on yourself.

    Working with human hair (which is recommended for this style) “can be challenging due to the softer texture of the hair which makes it hard to grip,” says Rutana, so if you’re looking for an impeccable finish on the first go, it’s probably best to leave it to a professional.

    It’s also a good idea to consult with your stylist to establish if they will provide the hair or if you need to source it ahead of your appointment. Many salons don’t provide hair extensions, so oftentimes, you’ll need to visit your local beauty supply store ahead of time. Stylists can usually advise on what hair to buy — Runata loves Bohotress braiding hair which is exclusively available online in the UK.

    68 dreamy braids and braid hairstyles, from modern twists to butterfly locs

    How to prep your hair for Boho braids

    Whether your hair is in its natural state or has a treatment like a relaxer or texture release, you still want to arrive at your appointment with washed and blow-dried hair. Some stylists offer this service – but if it’s unavailable, a simple shampoo to cleanse your hair and scalp followed by a conditioning treatment to moisturise and a thorough blow dry is all you need.

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    Annie Blay, Sheilla Mamona

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