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  • A Guide to Planting Gaillardia

    A Guide to Planting Gaillardia

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    Commemorating M. Gaillard de Marentonneau, a French patron of botany (Compositae). Blanket flower. A small genus of annuals and perennials, natives of America, with a long flowering period, useful for cut flowers. Somewhat untidy in habit, the long stalks fall about in wind and rain. Gaillardias need some twiggy stakes to help to keep the flowers clean and in full view.

    Annual species cultivated

    • G. amblyodon, 2-3 feet, maroon-red flowers, autumn.
    • G. pulchella, 2-3 feet, crimson and yellow flowers, late summer and autumn, best treated as a half-hardy annual; vars. brenziana, double flowers in reds and yellows ; picta, larger flower-heads. `Indian Chief’ with coppery-scarlet flowers is a named cultivar. In addition seedsmen usually offer mixed annual types under such names as ‘Choice Double Mixed’, `Special Mixture’, and ‘Double Fireball’.

    Perennial species cultivated

    All garden varieties originate from G. aristata (syn. G. grandiflora) and comprise a great range of colour from pale primrose-yellow to crimson and bold orange, all flowering from June to October. Named cultivars include ‘Burgundy’, 2 feet, rich wine red with a narrow yellow frill along the outer edges of the petals; ‘Copper Beauty’, 2 feet, smaller flowers of orange-yellow suffused with brown; ‘Dazzler’, 2 feet, yellow with brown-red central zone; ‘Fire-bird’, 2 feet, a vigorous variety with flame-orange flowers; ‘Goblin’, 1 foot, dwarf, yellow with red zone; `Ipswich Beauty’, 2-3 feet, large deep yellow flowers touched with reddish-brown ; `Monarch Strain’, 2 feet, mixed colours; ‘Nana Nieski’, 1-1 1/2 feet, red and yellow flowers on shorter stems; `The Prince’, 2 feet, very large flowers up to 4 inches across, deep yellow tinged reddish-brown at the centre; `Tokaj’, 2 feet, wine-red and tangerine; `Wirral Flame’, 2 feet, a strong growing variety, tangerine flowers tipped yellow; `Yellow Queen’, 2 feet, golden-yellow.

    Cultivation

    A sunny border in a moderately light soil is ideal and the drainage should be good. The annual kinds are raised from seed sown in March in gentle heat and gradually hardened off and planted in the border in late May to flower for the remainder of the season.

    Twiggy stakes are needed for good effects, and bold planting repays in garden decoration. The perennial kinds prefer drier soils. Autumn and winter damp is their enemy, and if they do not survive, it is probably because of dampness. On the other hand, a sun-baked soil stunts the plants, so a mulch of leaf-mould or decayed manure in summer is helpful. Liquid feeds can be given to good advantage when the plants are coming into flower. Named varieties are best propagated from root cuttings taken at any time between February and April and put in a sandy box in the frame or A greenhouse. Those that are taken early and do well may flower the first year.

    Alternatively, basal cuttings taken from August to October, put into a sandy compost in a cold frame or under a cloche will soon get away. The plants can be divided in either October or March and any roots left in the ground at this time will sprout again.


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Protecting Plants from the Sun and Heat

    Protecting Plants from the Sun and Heat

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    The gardener must at times give plants protection against too intense light and against excessively high temperatures.

    Damage from intense light is most likely to occur when naturally shade loving plants are exposed to direct, strong sunshine; when sun loving plants, comparatively soft and tender from being grown in a greenhouse or cold frame, are transferred outdoors; and after plants are transplanted. The trunks of trees that have been growing closely together in woodland or nursery may be damaged by sunscald on their south facing sides following their transference to sunnier locations; by heavy pruning, branches previously shaded by foliage may be exposed to sunshine sufficiently strong to sunscald them. Damage by sun occurs not only in summer; in winter, when the ground is frozen, evergreens, especially, are likely to suffer from this.

    The provision of shade is the obvious method of avoiding damage by light that is too intense. Shade needing plants should be grown in naturally shaded areas, such as woodland, under solitary trees or groups of trees, and areas shaded by high walls or buildings or in locations artificially shaded by lath houses, lath or burlap screens or other appropriate means.

    The trunks of trees may, with advantage, be wrapped in burlap or in special tree wrapping

    paper for a season or two following transplanting. When annuals, vegetables, young biennials and perennials are set out in hot sunny weather they should be shaded for a few days following the transplanting operation.

    Not a great deal can be done to lower summer temperatures; but in every garden some locations are noticeably warmer than others. At the base of a south facing wall, for example, the temperature is very noticeably higher than at the base of a north facing wall; it is likely to be cooler near a pool or other body of water than elsewhere; parts of the garden that receive reflected heat from walls and pavements are warmer than those where plants grow alone in more open areas; in enclosed, “pocketed” spaces temperatures are higher than in more open locations through which breezes blow; and in the shade it is always much cooler than in the sun.

    In selecting locations for plants known to prefer cool summer conditions, all these factors should be borne in mind. It should also be remembered that moisture has a cooling effect, and so plants should not be permitted to suffer from lack of water during dry weather.

    As a temporary measure, shading may be used to offset some of the ill effects of temperatures that are too high. Spraying the foliage lightly with water lowers its temperature somewhat and has a refreshing effect on plants.

    Many plants Clematis and Lilies, for example can withstand high atmospheric temperatures, provided the soil is kept reasonably cool and moist. In really hot weather an even temperature at the roots and a steady supply of water go far to ensure success with a great many kinds of plants, especially those that are surface rooters such as Azaleas, Blueberries and Rhododendrons. Summer mulching is an excellent garden practice designed to conserve moisture and keep the soil temperature moderate and even.

    Protecting Plants

    Wintering Plants Indoors

    Winter protection for Roses

    Winter protection for Trees and Shrubs

    Protection Bulbs during the winter

    Mulching plants for Winter Protection

    Mulching Protect plants from the hot weather

    Protection from Sun and Heat


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    Frederick Leeth

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  • Fintech Ramp raises $300M | Bank Automation News

    Fintech Ramp raises $300M | Bank Automation News

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    Spend management fintech Ramp raised $300 million on Aug. 22 to fuel its product expansion aims.   The series D funding round has given the New York-based company a valuation of $5.8 billion, according to a release from the company.   Ramp’s valuation dropped from $8.1 billion in 2022, when it raised $200 million in equity […]

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    Vaidik Trivedi

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