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Tag: Personal Finance

  • Supreme Court rules 9-0 that bankruptcy filers can’t avoid debt incurred by another’s fraud

    Supreme Court rules 9-0 that bankruptcy filers can’t avoid debt incurred by another’s fraud

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    The Supreme Court in a unanimous decision Wednesday ruled that a woman could not use protection under the U.S. bankruptcy code to avoid paying a debt that resulted from fraud by her partner.

    The court said that the woman, Kate Bartenwerfer, owed the debt to San Francisco real estate developer Kieran Buckley even if she did not know or could not have known about her now-husband David’s misrepresentations about a house they sold to Buckley for more than $2 million.

    The decision resolves a difference of opinion between several federal circuit appeals courts on the question of whether an innocent party can be liable in bankruptcy proceedings for another person’s fraud.

    The 9-0 ruling written by Justice Amy Coney Barrett underscored a Supreme Court decision in 1885, which found that two partners in a New York wool company were liable for the debt due to the fraudulent claims of a third partner even though they were not themselves “guilty of wrong.”

    Barrett dismissed Bartenwerfer’s grammatically focused argument that the relevant section of the bankruptcy code, written in a passive voice as “money obtained by fraud,” refers to “money obtained by the individual debtor’s fraud.”

    “Innocent people are sometimes held liable for fraud they did not personally commit, and, if they declare bankruptcy, [the bankruptcy code] bars discharge of that debt,” Barrett wrote.

    “So it is for Bartenwerfer, and we are sensitive to the hardship she faces,” she wrote.

    The debt to Buckley, which was originally a court judgment of $200,000 imposed in 2012, since has grown to more than $1.1 million as a result of interest, according to Janet Brayer, the attorney who represented Buckley in a lawsuit over the house sale.

    Brayer said that debt is growing at a current rate of 10% annually and that it excludes attorney fees to which she is entitled to under California law.

    “We have been working on this since 2008,  and now finally have been vindicated and justice served for all victims of fraud, Brayer said. “Hence, I am a happy girl today.” 

    Iain MacDonald, a lawyer for Bartenwerfer, did not have an immediate comment on the ruling, saying he planned to discuss the decision with her.

    Justice Sonia Sotomayor, in a concurring opinion joined by Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson, noted that the ruling involves people who acted together in a partnership, not “a situation involving fraud by a person bearing no agency or partnership relationship to the debtor.”

    “With that understanding, I join the Court’s opinion,” Sotomayor wrote.

    The ruling on Bartenwerfer’s case came 18 years after the events that triggered the dispute.

    Bartenwerfer, and her then-boyfriend David Bartenwerfer, jointly bought a house in San Francisco in 2005 and planned to remodel it and sell it for a profit, the ruling noted.

    While David hired an architect, engineer, and general contractor, monitored their progress and paid for the work, “Kate, on the other hand, was largely uninvolved,” Barrett wrote.

    The house was eventually bought by a man named Kieran Buckley after the Bartenwerfers “attested that
    they had disclosed all material facts relating to the property,” Barrett noted.

    But Buckley learned that the house had “a leaky roof, defective windows, a missing fire escape, and
    permit problems.”

    He then sued the couple, claiming he had overpaid for the home based on their misrepresentations of the property.

    A jury ruled in his favor, awarding him $200,000 from the Bartenwerfers.

    The couple was unable to pay the award or other creditors and filed for protection under Chapter 7 of the bankruptcy code, which normally allows people to void all of their debts.

    But “not all debts are dischargeable,” Barrett wrote in her ruling.

    “The Code makes several exceptions to the general rule, including the one at issue in this case: Section 523(a)(2)(A) bars the discharge of ‘any debt … for money … to the extent obtained by … false pretenses, a false representation, or actual fraud,’” Barrett wrote.

    Buckley challenged the couple’s move to void their debt to him on that ground.

    A U.S. Bankruptcy Court judge ruled in his favor, saying “that neither David nor Kate Bartenwerfer could discharge their debt to Buckley,” the opinion by Barrett noted.

    “Based on testimony from the parties, real-estate agents, and contractors, the court found that David had knowingly concealed the house’s defects from Buckley,” Barrett wrote.

    “And the court imputed David’s fraudulent intent to Kate because the two had formed a legal partnership to execute the renovation and resale project,” she added.

    The couple appealed the ruling.

    The U.S. Bankruptcy Appellate Panel for the 9th Circuit Court of Appeals found that David still owed the debt to Buckley given his fraudulent intent.

    But the same panel disagreed that Kate owed the debt.

    “As the panel saw it [a section of the bankruptcy code] barred her from discharging the debt only if she knew or had reason to know of David’s fraud,” Barrett wrote.

    Bartenwerfer later asked the Supreme Court to hear her appeal of that ruling.

    In her opinion, Barrett noted that the text of the bankruptcy code explicitly bars Chapter 7 from being used by a debtor to discharge a debt if that obligation was the result of “false pretenses, a false representation, or actual fraud.”

    Barrett wrote, “By its terms, this text precludes Kate Bartenwerfer from discharging her liability for the state-court judgment.”

    The justice noted that Kate Bartenwerfer disputed that, even as she admitted, “that, as a grammatical matter, the passive-voice statute does not specify a fraudulent actor.”

    “But in her view, the statute is most naturally read to bar the discharge of debts for money obtained by the debtor’s fraud,” Barrett wrote.

    “We disagree: Passive voice pulls the actor off the stage,” Barrett wrote.

    The justice wrote that Congress, in writing the relevant section of the bankruptcy code, “framed it to ‘focu[s] on an event that occurs without respect to a specific actor, and therefore without respect to any actor’s intent or culpability.’”

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    Stocks mixed as February minutes show most Fed members backed quarter-point hike

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  • At 55 years old, I will have worked for 30 years — what are the pros and cons of retiring at that age? 

    At 55 years old, I will have worked for 30 years — what are the pros and cons of retiring at that age? 

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    Dear MarketWatch, 

    I currently own one home, no mortgage with rental income. I own another home that will be paid off the year I turn 55. Both valued at $750,000.  I have a 401(k) and other stocks and investments totaling another $750,000. My debt will be all paid by the year I turn 55.  

    I have been on my job for 27 years. It will be 30 years when I’m 55. What are the disadvantages and advantages of not working after 55 years of age?

    See: ‘I will work until I die’ — I’m 74, have little money saved and battle medical issues. ‘I want to retire so I can have a few years to enjoy life.’

    Dear reader, 

    It is completely understandable that you would want to retire after working for 30 years, especially when you have rental income, but I would caution you to take this decision very seriously and find a few backup plans. 

    One big pro of waiting until 55 is the fact that you get to withdraw from your current 401(k) at that age. It’s called the Rule of 55, and not everyone knows about it. Usually, savers have to wait until they’re 59 ½ years old in order to take distributions from their retirement accounts, such as 401(k) plans and IRAs. An early distribution incurs a 10% penalty, plus taxes. 

    The Rule of 55 gives workers a break if they want to tap into their 401(k) and have separated from their current job for any reason. 

    But you probably don’t want to tap into that 401(k) — or at least, you shouldn’t want to do that.  

    Also see: We have $1.6 million but most is locked in our 401(k) plans — how can we retire early without paying so much in taxes?

    If you stop working at 55, you’re halting a major source of income. Rental property is great, and having no mortgage over your head is a huge plus, but will it be enough to cover your everyday expenses and the unexpected for decades to come? Retirement isn’t what it used to be — people are living longer, which means every dollar you have for retirement needs to last until you die. If you retire at 55, you could potentially be in retirement for 30 years — or more. Do you think your nest egg and any other sources of income, like Social Security and rental income, could cover you for that long? 

    Some people would say $750,000 in a retirement account is more than enough, but others would argue it is not. Of course, it also depends on what your annual expenses are, what future spending could look like if you were to fall ill or need to change something from your current lifestyle. And do you have any other money set aside for various circumstances, like repairs on either of your homes? 

    You could look to see what other sources of income may look like (for example, what can you expect from Social Security?) but you should still find a few backup plans for income so that you’re not sweating it out later in life. Not to be a Debbie Downer, but rental income may not be enough to make ends meet or keep you from distributing too much from your retirement accounts. Also, do you have money set aside to offset your costs if your property is vacant for a little while?

    Check out MarketWatch’s column “Retirement Hacks” for actionable pieces of advice for your own retirement savings journey 

    Also, don’t forget about healthcare. If you’re not married to a spouse who has health insurance through an employer, what would you do? Medicare eligibility starts at age 65, which means you would need your own health insurance for an entire decade, and that can be quite expensive. 

    Instead of retiring fully, is there another job you may be happier working? Or some type of part-time gig you could take on? A huge bonus would be if this job comes with health benefits, as well as another retirement account you could keep putting money into until you’re ready to fully retire. 

    I know this may not have been the answer you wanted to hear, but it’s absolutely worth considering every possible good and bad thing that could come out of retiring early. But as with everything else in life, you need to strike a balance — finding work you can do that brings in an income, while also enjoying your life now. It’s not easy, but it’s worth it to plan this out a bit more before you celebrate the big 55. 

    Readers: Do you have suggestions for this reader? Add them in the comments below.

    Have a question about your own retirement savings? Email us at HelpMeRetire@marketwatch.com

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  • I’m a single dad maxing out my retirement accounts and earning $100,000 – how do I make the most of my retirement dollars?

    I’m a single dad maxing out my retirement accounts and earning $100,000 – how do I make the most of my retirement dollars?

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    Dear MarketWatch, 

    I make over $100,000 a year, and expect to for the foreseeable future. As of now, I am contributing 8% of my income to my 403(b) with a 3% 401(a) match; all Roth. It would be more, but I am maxing out a Roth IRA and an HSA as well each year. I am a single father with a 9-year-old daughter, and do not have plans to marry, so I’m planning everything as single. I expect house to be paid off when I (plan to anyway) retire at age 65. I plan to collect Social Security at 67.

    My question is, should I move my 403(b) & 401(a) income to pretax dollars, since I expect to be in a lower tax bracket echelon once I retire? Or leave it at Roth. I’m hoping for some advice on what would generally be the most prudent option to maximize retirement dollars. 

    See: I’m a 39-year-old single dad with $600,000 saved – I want to retire at 50 but don’t know how. What should I do?

    Dear reader, 

    First, congratulations on maxing out your Roth IRA and HSA and contributing to your other retirement accounts — managing that while being a single dad and paying off a home is no simple task. 

    You’ve asked the age-old retirement planning question: should I be investing in a traditional account, or a Roth? For readers unaware, traditional accounts are invested with pretax dollars, and the money is taxed at withdrawal in retirement. Roth accounts are invested with after-tax dollars upon deposit, and then withdrawn tax-free (if investors follow the rules as far as how and when to take the money, such as after the account has been opened for five years and the investor is 59 ½ years old or older).

    As you know, the rule of thumb for choosing between a Roth and a traditional account comes down to taxes. If you’re in a lower tax bracket, advisers will typically suggest opting for a Roth as you’ll be paying taxes at a lower rate now versus a potentially higher one later. For a traditional, you may be better off if you’re in your peak earning years and expect to drop a tax bracket or more at the time of withdrawal. 

    One of the greatest challenges, however, is knowing future tax brackets. You may think you’ll be in a lower one now, but you can’t be sure. We also don’t know what tax rates might even look like when you get to retirement. The current tax rates are expected to increase in 2026, when the brackets from the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act are set to expire. Congress may do something before that, or after of course.

    Check out MarketWatch’s column ‘Retirement Hacks’ for actionable advice for your own retirement savings journey 

    That being said, if you believe you’ll be in a lower tax bracket in retirement, it doesn’t hurt to have some of your money go in a traditional account. Having tax diversification can really work in your favor, too. It allows you more control and freedom when retirement does come, as you’ll be able to choose which accounts you withdraw from and how to save the most on taxes. The more options, the better. 

    You should do your best to crunch the numbers now, and then make a plan to do it every year or so until you get to retirement. Here’s one calculator that can help

    Make estimates where you have to, and factor in inflation — I’m sure we’ve all seen how inflation can impact personal finances in the last year alone. There are a few other things you can do to make these calculations. For example, get a sense of what your Social Security income may be by creating an account with the Social Security Administration, which will show you what you could expect to receive in benefits at various claiming ages. Also add in any other income you may get, like a pension.

    After you calculate what you expect to spend in retirement, you can figure out what your withdrawal needs will be — and how that will impact your taxable income depending on if the money comes from a traditional or Roth account. Remember: Withdrawals from Roths do not increase your taxable income, whereas traditional account investments do when taken out.  

    Keep in mind, Roth IRAs have one really great advantage over traditional accounts — they are not subject to required minimum distributions, which is when investors must withdraw money from the account if they haven’t yet done so by the mandatory age. Traditional employer-sponsored plans, like 401(k) and 403(b) plans, are subjected to an RMD. Roth employer-sponsored plans have also had an RMD, though the Secure Act 2.0, which Congress passed at the end of 2022, eliminates the RMD for Roth workplace plans beginning in 2024. (The Secure Act 2.0 also pushed the age up for RMDs to 73 this year, and age 75 in 2033.) 

    Also see: We want to retire in a few years, and have about $1 million saved. Should I move my money to a Roth, and pay off my $200,000 mortgage while I’m at it?

    Traditional versus Roth accounts are just one piece of the puzzle in retirement planning, though. There are many other questions you need to ask yourself, and a financial planner if you’re interested and able to work with one. For example, what rates of return are you anticipating on your investments, and how are your investments allocated? What state do you live in now and will that change in retirement (that will affect your taxes). Are you concerned about leaving behind an inheritance, and have you considered life insurance? And even before you get to retirement, as a single dad, do you have a will, healthcare proxy and disability insurance in the event something unfortunate happens? 

    I know this may feel overwhelming, especially when you’re taking into account calculations and estimates for years and years from now, but it will all be worth it. Consider working with a qualified financial planner, or talking to someone at the firm that houses your investments, and don’t feel obligated to stick with whatever you choose until you retire. As with many things in life, retirement plans tend to change and adapt as you do. 

    Have a question about your own retirement savings? Email us at HelpMeRetire@marketwatch.com

    Readers: Do you have suggestions for this reader? Add them in the comments below.

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  • My fiancé and I are 60. His adult daughter is opposed to our marriage — and insists on inheriting her father’s $3.2 million estate. How should we handle her?

    My fiancé and I are 60. His adult daughter is opposed to our marriage — and insists on inheriting her father’s $3.2 million estate. How should we handle her?

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    What advice would you give to a widow and widower considering marriage on how to manage finances — and deal with adult children?

    We are both 60 years old and plan to work a few more years, mostly for health insurance. We both have about $1.5 million in retirement savings accounts. Our spouses’ 401(k)s and IRAs rolled into our accounts.

    I have another $500,000 in a brokerage and he has almost another $1 million. We both own homes with $300,000 mortgages. Mine is worth $500,000, Paul’s (not his real name) home is worth $1 million. We have no other debt.

    We both have one married, and one unmarried child that we help. We both have two grandchildren.

    We should be set up very well. Here’s the concern: His married, well-off daughter is very aggressive about inheritance. She wants the family home retitled in a trust. She wants all life insurance and brokerage beneficiaries in her name. Her brother has had drug-addiction problems, so she’s cutting him out even though it seems he’s the one who will need help.

    ‘She wants the family home retitled in a trust. She wants all life insurance and brokerage beneficiaries in her name.’

    The daughter isn’t thrilled about our relationship and suggests we just live together. For religious reasons, I would never do this. Grandma shacking up? What example would I set for my grandchildren?

    As a widowed couple, we are realistic enough to plan for the time one of us is left alone. Paul has diabetes, high blood pressure and already sees a cardiologist. What if he has a heart attack? Stroke? Or if he dies?

    What’s a fair way to mingle finances and allow security for me should he predecease me while allowing Paul’s daughter to ultimately inherit?

    By the way, my children have never raised money as an issue. After we both cared for spouses through cancer, they know life is short and just want us to be happy.

    Happy to Have Found Love Again

    Dear Happy,

    She is overstepping the line, and overplaying her hand.

    The first rule of inheritance is that it’s not yours until the decedent’s money is sitting in your bank account. Your fiancé’s daughter can make all the demands she likes, but the only thing your fiancé has to do is say, “You don’t need to be concerned. My affairs are all in order. I’ve always taken care of my own affairs, and I am not changing now.”

    How your fiancé decides to split his estate is entirely up to him, and can be done in consultation with a financial adviser and attorney, taking into account each of his children’s individual needs. For instance, if you move in together, he could give you a life estate, allowing you to live in the home for the rest of your life, and dividing the property between his two children thereafter. 

    Given that you have your own home, however, you may decide to rent it out, and move back there in the event that he predeceases you. There are so many ways to split an inheritance. You could look at the intestate laws of your state, and follow them. In New York, the spouse inherits the first $50,000 of intestate property, plus half of the balance, and the kids inherit the rest.

    “Paul” may decide to set up a trust for his son, so he can provide an income for him over the course of his life. If he has or had issues with addiction, this will help him while not putting temptation in his way with a lump sum of money. The best kind of trust is the one that deals with any recurring issues directly, and takes into account the person’s circumstances.

    Martin Hagan, a Pennsylvania-based estate-planning attorney who has practiced for four decades, writes: “First, it would authorize distributions only if the beneficiary is actively pursuing treatment and recovery.  Second, it would limit distributions to paying only for the expenses incurred in carrying out the treatment plan that will have been developed for the beneficiary.”

    You have $2 million collectively in a retirement and brokerage account and $200,000 equity in his home, and you can use these next seven years or so to pay off your mortgage, while your fiancé has $2.5 million and $700,000 in equity on his home. You are both well set up for retirement, and let’s hope you have many years to spend together.

    The financial services industry has many opinions. You should, advisers say, have 10 times your salary saved by the time you’re 65 years old. You don’t mention your salary, but I would be surprised if many people in America had that much money saved, especially given all of the unexpected events — divorce, illness, job loss — that can occur in the intervening years.

    You also have other priorities than dealing with an aggressive daughter/daughter-in-law. AARP suggests that most people should look into long-term care insurance between the ages of 60 and 65, around the time most people are eligible to qualify for Medicare. If you do it earlier, it can serve as a savings account in the event that you never need long-term care, AARP says.

    As retirement columnist Richard Quinn recently wrote on MarketWatch, everybody’s circumstances are different. “Living in retirement isn’t about averages. It isn’t about what other people do or the opinions of experts, especially online instant experts who don’t know anything about you and have yet to experience many years of retirement themselves.”

    Don’t give too much oxygen or power to your future daughter-in-law. Her father should give her a stock answer, and be firm. If she persists, he can say, “The subject is closed. I need you to respect the decisions I make about my own life, respect my privacy on these matters, and it would be nice if you would be happy for us, and support us in our marriage together.”

    You can’t change people. But you can change wills.  

    Yocan email The Moneyist with any financial and ethical questions related to coronavirus at qfottrell@marketwatch.com, and follow Quentin Fottrell on Twitter.

    Check out the Moneyist private Facebook group, where we look for answers to life’s thorniest money issues. Readers write in to me with all sorts of dilemmas. Post your questions, tell me what you want to know more about, or weigh in on the latest Moneyist columns.

    The Moneyist regrets he cannot reply to questions individually.

    More from Quentin Fottrell:

    My boyfriend wants me to move into his home and pay rent. I suggested only paying for utilities and groceries. What should I do?

    My dinner date ‘forgot’ his wallet and took the receipt for his taxes. Should I have called him out for being cheapskate?

    My boyfriend lives in my house with my 2 kids, but refuses to pay rent or contribute to food and utility bills. What’s my next move?

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  • Entrepreneur | 10 Best Credit Cards for Fair Credit

    Entrepreneur | 10 Best Credit Cards for Fair Credit

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    Having a credit card offers a wide range of benefits. Hit with an unexpected expense like a flat tire or broken water pipe? You can take care of it right away and pay off the bill over time. You can also keep an itemized list of payments, apply for loans and even earn rewards like airline points. 

    Having a less-than-perfect credit score is no obstacle to obtaining a credit card. There are many cards tailored to people with fair credit scores, and owning one is a great way to start building a solid credit history.

    What Is Fair Credit? 

    There are different metrics for measuring a credit score, but many banks and lenders use the Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO) model to calculate it:

    • Poor: 300-579
    • Fair: 580-669
    • Good: 670-739
    • Very good: 740-799
    • Exceptional: 800-850

    A fair credit score is below average, but it’s an excellent springboard for having better credit in the future. Many people start off with a fair score when they first get a credit card. One of the best ways to raise your score is by making on-time credit card payments, even if you’re only paying the minimum amount each month. Of course, you’ll need a credit card to get started. 

    The Best Cards for People With Fair Credit

    Applying for one of these cards is a great idea if you need to bolster your credit score.

    Capital One Platinum Credit Card

    This card is one of the best options if you have a fair credit score. It offers no annual or hidden fees. You can choose when your payment is due each month, and six months after opening your account and making regular payments, Capital One will consider you for a higher credit limit. 

    The downside is that the variable APR is 29.74%, putting it on the higher end. The card doesn’t offer a rewards program, either. However, it does come with a $0 fraud liability and unlimited account access from your desktop or phone. You can also check out using contactless payment by hovering the card over a payment terminal. 

    Upgrade Cash Rewards Visa Credit Card

    The Upgrade Cash Rewards Visa Card is a hybrid between a credit card and personal loan card. It offers an APR as low as 14.99% for people who qualify, although the APR can go as high as 29.99%, which is steep. You also don’t get a sign-up bonus with this card.

    However, the Upgrade Cash Rewards card gives you 1.5% cash back on any purchases you make with it. This rate is similar to what you’d earn from cards that require good to excellent credit. Plus, any remaining balance that carries over converts to an installment loan with a fixed monthly payment. 

    Credit One Bank Wander Card

    Do you travel a lot? Credit One Bank’s Wander Card provides high travel reward rates. It has an impressive program that gives you 5% back on hotels, dining, flights and even gas, making it good for everyday use and more adventurous excursions. Plus, it offers 1% back on other purchases and has an intro offer of 10,000 bonus points. It’s an unsecured credit card that doesn’t require a security deposit. 

    The Wander Card is one of the only travel cards available for people with fair credit. However, if you don’t travel frequently, it may not be worth it — the card’s main benefit is the rewards program. With a fairly high APR of 28.24% and a $95 annual fee, there are cheaper routes to take if you just want to build credit. 

    Capital One QuicksilverOne Cash Rewards Credit Card

    Although the name is a mouthful, this card is an excellent option for people with fair credit. It only has a $39 annual fee and gives you at least 1.5% cash back on every purchase. You can also redeem rewards as a statement credit. Within six months of making regular payments, Capital One will automatically consider you for a higher credit line. 

    This card offers contactless payment. It comes with a free Uber One membership for six months and has a 5% cash-back reward if you book hotels and rental cars via Capital One Travel. 

    As with most credit cards offered to people with fair credit, the regular APR is high at 29.74%, and you can’t boost your rewards earnings via bonus categories. Plus, if you don’t travel frequently or make many large purchases, you may end up paying more in annual fees than you earn back through the rewards program. However, it’s still a great option to start building your credit. 

    OpenSky Secured Visa Credit Card

    Visa’s OpenSky card requires a minimum $200 security deposit, but it has a modest annual fee of only $35. There’s no credit check when you apply. In fact, Capital Bank may even approve your application for this card with no credit history at all, making it a great first credit card.

    Although it doesn’t offer a rewards program, the OpenSky card has a low ongoing variable APR of only 21.64% and a simple application process. After six months of timely payments, Capital Bank will consider you for a credit line increase with no additional deposit required. This card also has a limit of up to $3,000, which makes it easy to keep your credit utilization ratio on the low side. 

    Petal 2 Visa Credit Card

    The Petal 2 has a credit limit ranging from $300 to $10,000, no annual membership fee and no security deposit. It offers 1% cash back on everyday expenditures and 1.5% cash back after a year of making payments on time. There are no fees for making a late payment, going over the credit limit or making a foreign transaction. 

    The variable APR can be as low as 17.49% if you qualify, but can also be a staggering 31.49%, which is higher than most fair-credit options. While this card doesn’t offer cash advances or balance transfers, nor does it come with an intro APR offer, it’s a good option if you’re trying to repair a fair credit score.

    Milestone Gold Mastercard

    There’s no security deposit for the Milestone Gold Mastercard. However, it offers excellent security measures — it gives you zero-liability fraud protection if someone steals your card or you happen to lose it, and it also features identity monitoring to protect your personal info.

    This card has an annual fee of $35 to $99 and a high APR of 24.90%. It doesn’t have a rewards program or an intro offer to help offset the fees. However, one benefit of having a Mastercard is that it’s a reputable brand, so virtually every vendor will accept it. 

    Discover It Student Cash Back Card

    Are you a college student? If so, you can apply for the Discover It Student Cash Back Card. You don’t even need a credit history to qualify, making it great for people with a less-than-stellar credit score.

    U.S. students owed almost $1.5 trillion in student loans as of 2019, but don’t let that scare you away from getting a credit card. Developing a good credit score is critical if you ever need to make a large purchase like a house or car. 

    This card helps you build better credit while earning 5% cash-back rewards on many everyday purchases from select locations. For all other purchases, you’ll automatically get 1% cash back. This card has no annual fee and offers a cash-back matching program, meaning Discover automatically matches all the cash back you’ve earned at the end of the year. 

    The regular APR ranges from 17.24% to 26.24%, but there’s a 0% APR on anything you buy for the first six months after opening your account.

    Mission Lane Visa Credit Card

    Although this card’s regular APR is steep at 26.99% to 29.99%, it has several positive features for people with fair credit. You can access your account at any time through the mobile app. There’s no interest as long as you pay on time and in full each month. There’s also no required security deposit, and Visa will consider you for a higher credit line in as little as seven months of regular payments. 

    The annual fee can be as low as $0 to as much as $59, depending on how you qualify. Unfortunately, this card doesn’t provide intro APR offers on balance transfers or purchases. 

    Indigo Mastercard

    This card allows you to pre-qualify even if you’ve experienced bankruptcy. It has a low credit limit of only $300, and the annual fee ranges from free to $99 depending on your credit score. However, as long as you make timely payments, it can bolster your credit score and give your monthly budget some wiggle room. 

    You can use the Indigo Mastercard online, in apps and in stores that accept Mastercard. It also features a $0 liability for unauthorized charges and doesn’t require a security deposit. 

    Climbing the Credit Ladder

    It’s common to have a fair credit score. When you first acquire a credit card, for example, you might have a fair score because you don’t have a credit history yet. You might also fall into the “fair” category if you’ve applied for multiple credit cards. 

    Banks and credit unions typically reserve the best cards for people with higher scores. However, you can work your way toward an upgrade by starting with a simple credit card that offers fewer benefits. If you make your payments on time and watch your spending, you should have a good credit score in no time. 

    The post 10 Best Credit Cards for Fair Credit appeared first on Due.

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