Above: The blind-baked pastry shell is filled with custard and ramp leaves.
Ramp Leaf Quiche
Makes 1 x 9-inch quiche (springform pan)
Equal parts luxury and restraint, the savory and creamy custard for this ramp leaf quiche is so good that I like to use a springform pan that holds a far-larger-than-traditional quiche. The blind baking step is essential for that crisp-bottomed crunch. If you don’t do cream and milk, canned coconut milk is a good substitute.
For a spring party, this recipe also makes 22 tartlets, if you use all the pastry-scraps, a 3¾-inch cookie-cutter, and bake in a 12-slot muffin tray (still using beans for baking blind). The quichelets take about 20 minutes to bake once filled with custard.
Pastry
6 oz flour
3 oz cold butter
½ teaspoon salt
1 large egg, whisked
2 Tablespoons cold water
Extra butter for the pan
Ramp Leaf Filling
1½ cups whipping cream
4 large egg yolks
1 large whole egg
¼ teaspoon salt
3 mature ramp leaves, rolled into tubes and sliced very thinly
Pastry: Grate the cold butter into the flour in a large bowl (if you don’t have a grater, cut the butter thinly). Rub the butter and flour between your fingers until the mixture resembles even crumbs (some larger pieces of butter are fine). Add salt and toss with your fingers. Make a well and add the egg with the cold water. Using a fork to whisk the egg with the water together in the well, then slowly incorporate the surrounding flour mixture. When larger clumps form you can bring them together with your hands. Knead a few times to blend, then pat into a fat disc (about 1½ inches fat), wrap, and chill for two hours.
To bake the pastry: Pre-heat the oven to 350°F.
Butter a 9-inch springform pan. Line the bottom with a round of baking parchment. Roll the pastry out thinly. Wrap the pastry sheet around your roller and lower it gently into the pan. The pastry will hang over the sides. Transfer to the fridge to chill for 15 minutes. After it has chilled, trim the overhanging edges carefully, leaving some overlap, with a very sharp knife or pair of scissors. (You can save the scraps and bake them into crunchy canapés seasoned with herb salt or cheese.)
Line the inside of the pastry with a large piece of baking parchment that comes up well over the sides. Add 3 cups of dry beans (or rice), mounding the beans towards the sides. This helps to keep the pastry edges in place as they bake. Transfer to the oven and bake for 15 minutes.
After 15 minutes remove the pan from the oven. Carefully lift out the lining with the beans, taking care not to damage the sides of the pastry shell. Return the springform pan to the oven for another 10 – 15 minutes. It is done when the base and edges are golden and crisp. Remove from oven and place on a wire cooling rack. When it is cool, loosen the pan sides and peel off the parchment lining under the pastry-base. Return the pastry shell to the springform pan.
Filling: In a bowl, use a fork to beat together the cream, milk, and eggs (I find that an actual whisk makes too many bubbles). Add the salt, and beat again. Add the slivers of ramp leaves and stir.
Pour the filling gently into the pastry case (still in its pan) and transfer to the oven. Bake for 35 – 40 minutes, until the center of the custard custard does not jiggle when given a slight shove (an inserted skewer should come out clean). Remove from the oven.
Loosen the sides of the springform and gently remove it from the ramp leaf quiche. Either cool it on a wire rack, or serve hot: Use a long spatula to slide the quiche from the base of the baking pan onto a serving plate.
Are you looking for inspiration on the best perennial plants for pots?
Perennial plants can be an excellent choice for containers, providing year round interest and low effort displays that don’t break the bank. But some perennials are better suited to growing in pots than others – which is where this plant guide comes in very handy!
The best low maintenance perennial plants for pots
In this article we’ll explore 30 fantastic perennial plants that are perfect for pots and containers. Whether you’re a seasoned green thumb or a budding plant parent, we’ve got tips and advice to help you create a low maintenance container garden that’s bursting with colour and interest.
What are perennial plants?
Perennial plants thrive year after year, typically requiring infrequent replacement. They come in two main types: evergreen, maintaining their leaves all year, and deciduous, shedding foliage in colder seasons.
Unlike perennials, annual plants complete their life cycle within a single growing season, from germination to flowering and eventual death. As a result, they typically require replacement each year.
There are lots of compelling reasons to consider perennial plants when planning your container displays:
Year-round interest: Perennial plants can provide continuous colour, texture, and appeal. This is especially valuable during the dormant seasons of winter and early spring.
Low-effort container gardening: Perennials allow you to avoid the hassle of replacing plants each season. Many perennials are also hardy plants, requiring minimal care, even in colder weather.
Cost-effective: With proper care, perennials in pots will maintain their good looks year after year, reducing the need for frequent plant purchases. As well as making your garden more eco-friendly, this is also great if you’re trying to save money on gardening.
Plenty of choice: there’s a vast selection of perennial plants for pots, boasting impressive foliage, striking blooms, or vibrant berries to elevate your garden’s aesthetics.
Things to consider when choosing perennial plants for pots
Before you start shopping for perennial plants, it’s important to consider the following:
Pot size: What size is your planting container?
Desired height: How tall would you like the plant to grow?
Growth rate: How quickly do you want the plant to grow?
Support: Can you provide plant support (such as a trellis or obelisk) if required?
Location: What levels of sun exposure, shade, wind, and shelter does your pot’s location provide?
Personal preferences: Do you want a specific colour of flower, type of foliage, or scent?
Considering these aspects will help you select the right plant for your containers.
Flowering perennials for pots
Achillea
With their delicate, feathery leaves and flat-headed flowers, achilleas have a lot to offer in pots. They’re loved by pollinating insects too.
Agapanthus
For stunning perennial flowers in pots, grow agapanthus (also known as African lilies) in your pots. Give these impressive plants like sun and well-drained soil, and they will reward you with blooms from midsummer to early autumn.
Some varieties of Agapanthus needwinter protection, so growing them in pots makes it easy to move them to a warmer location in cold months.
Ajuga
A good ground cover option, Ajuga is a low maintenance plant that produces dainty flowers in spring and early summer.
Alliums
For late spring blooms, consider allium bulbs in pots. Opt for shorter varieties like ‘christophii’, or ‘cowanii’ or ‘oreophilum’ to ensure they fit well in your container display.
Aquilegia
Spring flowering aquilegias will complement annual flowers beautifully in spring pots. With a variety of colours available, they effortlessly blend into any garden scheme. Plus, if you let them, they will readily self-seed, adding a touch of spontaneity to your garden.
Azalea
For vibrant flowers, look no further than azaleas. These popular plants enjoy sheltered conditions and partial shade.
Dahlia
Dahlias are well-suited to growing in pots, and can take a container display from late summer right into autumn. The added bonus of container planting dahlias is you can keep their slug and snail enemies under control more easily.
There’s a huge selection of dahlia varieties to choose from, so it’s not hard to find a shade that suits your container colour scheme.
Eryngium
Resembling thistles, Eryngiums have spiky blooms and silver-blue stems. Perfect for adding height and impact to a pot, they will thrive even in poor soil conditions. Do bear in mind that these plants are quite prickly; it’s a good idea to plant them in a pot that you don’t come into contact with regularly.
Erysimum ‘Bowles’s Mauve’
Wallflowers are truly long blooming perennials for containers. This variety of wallflower produces lovely purple flowers on delicate grey-green stems from late winter months right into summer.
Geum
You probably associate geums with cottage garden planting. These tough plants produce an abundance of small flowers without a fuss, and are happy in full sun or part shade.
Hardy geranium
Hardy geraniums are low-maintenance, hassle-free perennial flowers for pots. They will bloom abundantly with minimal care, and you can easily divide them to create new plants at no cost.
Hellebore
Hellebores are ideal for late winter and spring containers, providing flowers at a time when many other plants are dormant.
Lavender
Lavender is a brilliant perennial for pots. The silver-grey foliage is evergreen, and the delicate purple flowers give off an incredible scent. Lavender is pretty enough to plant solo in a container, or you can combine it with other plants on the pink/purple/silver spectrum for an impactful display.
Penstemons resemble foxgloves, with tubular flowers on tall spikes. They’re popular with pollinating insects and are available in a range of colours. Grow this hardy perennial in large containers for best results.
Peony
For truly showstopping blooms, it’s hard to beat peonies. They like to grow in full sun and enjoy rich soil, so make sure you feed them regularly in pots.
Salvia nemorosa
This ornamental sage is a compact variety that works well in pots. The flower spikes combine with textured leaves to create lots of impact.
Sedum
If texture is your preference, sedums are a good choice. These low-growing plants are excellent for covering soil in pots and work well alongside succulents.
Spring bulbs
Spring flowering bulbs are perfect for pots, and can create focal points in a garden that hasn’t really got going yet.
Daffodils, tulips, hyacinths, iris, snowdrops and fritillaries are all good options for gorgeous containers. Creating a bulb lasagne – layers of bulbs topped with plants – is an easy way to get the most out of your pots.
Bamboo plants have a reputation for rampaging around a garden if you let them, but growing them in a pot allows you to avoid this and still enjoy their looks. Bamboos are tall perennials for pots, so they’re ideal for creating privacy on an overlooked patio too. Choose a large pot to keep this plant happy.
Brunnera
A foliage stunner that also flowers, brunnera has interesting heart-shaped leaves and is suited to shady pots.
Cordyline
The striking sword-shaped leaves of Cordylines will add a modern edge to you container displays. There’s a range of colours to choose from, including deep red, pink, and greens.
Cornus sanguinea ‘Midwinter Fire’
As the name suggests, this is a great perennial for a winter pot. Yes, there are white flowers to enjoy in summer, but it’s the impactful orange and pink stems in winter that you really want this plant for. Use large pots for this perennial.
Euonymus fortunei
This evergreen shrub is low growing, making it a useful ground cover in larger containers. Use the striking foliage to add visual interest and colour to a container display.
Fatsia japonica
If you like your leaves big and bold, try a Fatsia. These evergreen perennials work well in shady areas.
Ferns
Ferns are fantastic if you’d like to create a woodland or tropical vibe in your perennial containers. Their beautiful foliage is packed with texture and can create movement when the wind blows. Good varieties of fern for containers include Athyrium filix-femina, Athyrium Pewter Lace, and Dryopteris Wallichiana.
Heuchera
Heucheras, (or coral bells) truly shine in container displays. While their interesting foliage steals the show, they also boast small summer flowers, perfect for attracting pollinators. Available in a spectrum of shades, from rich reds to vibrant greens, these tough perennials can elevate pots with their stunning colours.
Hosta
Who needs flowers for a striking container display? Hostas, with their big, textured leaves, are ideal specimen plants. Their impressive foliage steals the show, making a bold statement. Growing hostas in pots also offers the benefit of easier slug and snail control.
Ornamental grasses
Outdoor pots flourish with the addition of grasses. These versatile plants can provide height, texture, and movement, and serve as an excellent backdrop to flowering plants.
Ornamental grasses really stand out in winter, when their structural elegance shines amidst a quieter garden. Evergreen varieties like Feather Reed Grass, Blue Fescue, Tufted Hair Grass, Stipa tenuissima, and Japanese Sedge will look good year-round.
Stachys byzantina
Also known as lamb’s ears, the soft, fuzzy leaves of stachys serve a purpose, reducing water evaporation and making it a great choice for drought-tolerant foliage in containers.
Care tips for perennial plants in pots
Growing perrenials in pots restricts their access to nutrients and space. This means it’s crucial to provide adequate support for your plants to flourish.
Here are some useful tips to help your container grown perennials thrive:
Choosing pots for perennial plants
When choosing a suitable pot for perennial plants, ensure it meets the following criteria:
Sufficient space to accommodate the plant’s eventual size (refer to plant care instructions for guidance).
Adequate drainage holes at the bottom to avoid waterlogging.
Perennial potted plants tend to dry out faster than those in the ground. During warmer months, monitor your pots frequently; if the soil surface feels dry, it’s time to water.
However, be cautious not to overwater, as inadequate drainage can lead to root rot.
Elevating pots on *pot feetwill help with good drainage, as will incorporating *perlite into the soil mix.
Feeding potted perennials
Over time, container plants will deplete soil nutrients, leading to diminished growth. To prevent plant decline, it’s essential to feed your plants regularly.
For ornamental plants, opt for a general-purpose plant food, available in either *liquid form to dilute in water, or *granules to incorporate into the soil.
In conclusion, perennial plants offer endless possibilities for container gardens. From their year-round beauty to their low-maintenance charm, these plants are the perfect choice for anyone looking to add long-lasting vibrancy to their outdoor space. Whether you’re gardening on a balcony, in patio pots, or on a windowsill, you can embrace the versatility of perennial plants and enjoy a low maintenance perennial container garden all year round.
More container gardening advice
For more tips on gardening in containers, check out these articles:
Pin for later: best low maintenance perennial plants for pots
After all the planning for the garden layout is done, being able to buy (or grow) your plants feels like something of a victory, the fun bit when you can finally get to see a garden taking shape. In my previous column in this series on making “A Garden from Scratch,” I broached the bigger picture of the types of plants you might want to consider for your garden. In this column I get up close to the plants themselves and investigate what to choose and how to put it all together.
Your own tastes are key here—it’s all very well meticulously planning, but ultimately you want to step into a garden full of things you love. (A chaotic jumble, in fact, can feel just as magical as a considered design—often more so.) Ideally as you plan your garden you will have drawn up a wishlist of everything you love that will also thrive in your garden conditions. The goal for most gardeners is to find a space for as many of the plants on that list as possible.
Below, my tips on how to choose your plants wisely.
Above: This border has a line of Chanticleer pear trees and is enclosed by copper beech hedge. The borders are filled with perennials in blue and apricots, including Geranium ‘Rozanne’, Baptisia australis, hardy geraniums, and Iris pallida, as well as textural grasses and hydrangeas for later in the season.
If I’m planting a big area from scratch, I draw out a flat plan that roughly marks out the plants, taking into consideration both how those plants will look mingling next to each other and how much space they will ultimately need. It’s not an exact scale drawing but an approximation of the size (height and spread) I think a plant could take up. If you’re not familiar with the plant, you can usually get a good sense of its growth habit and mature appearance from its nursery label.
2. Put perennials on repeat.
Above: The same border seen from the opposite direction. Alchemilla mollis, catmint, and pennisetum are repeated all along the border, which makes it feel visually cohesive. Peppered between them are plants with a shorter season, including alliums, camassia, foxgloves, asters, and hydrangeas.
You won’t find these at the grocery store! These rare vegetables and fruits are hard to come by unless you grow them yourself. Out of the thousands of options of edibles out there, here are a handful of my favourites.
Radish pods
When it comes to the grocery store, produce isn’t selected for its flavour. Fruits and vegetables are chosen based on their size and ability to travel and store well. For instance, you know and recognize orange carrots. But if I grow them, I will grow the red heirloom varieties for their sweeter flavour.
Or tomatoes. The heirloom varieties ripened on the sun have THE best flavour, and those in the grocery store aren’t even close to competing.
Yes, these rare vegetables you can only grow don’t ship or store well. It’s why you won’t see them at the grocery store. But if you don’t grow them yourself, you may never get to taste their splendour.
There are an estimated quarter of a million plants we can use for agricultural purposes. So, of course, I’m only going to name a handful. Use this list of rare vegetables and fruits as a jumping-off point for your own edible garden.
Golden raspberries
The Need for Agricultural Diversity
The Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations estimates that we use only 3% of the quarter of a million plants available for agricultural use. Even further, ¾ of the world’s food supply relies on just 12 mega crops, including rice, wheat, and maize.
While our food system is highly productive, it’s extremely fragile. Take a look at bananas, for example. During the later half of the 19th century, the most popular variety of bananas was Gros Michel, known for its taste and resistance to bruising.
However, during the 1950s, a disease known as Panama Disease (banana wilt) swept through and destroyed commercial production of the banana. This forced producers to switch to a new disease-resistant variety, Cavendish. Which now accounts for approximately 47% of the global banana production and could be wiped out by another train of the banana wilt.
Another well-known example is the Great Famine in Ireland. One-third of Ireland’s population relied on potatoes for food, and potato blight infected most crops. An estimated 1 million people died as a direct result, either due to disease or hunger.
We become increasingly vulnerable by focusing on only a few highly productive crops. Climate change makes extreme droughts, flooding, varying temperatures, and disease outbreaks more common, and diversity is the best way to become resilient.
Nettle is actually a super green, but most consider it a weed.
Rare Vegetables and Fruits to Grow at Home
These unusual vegetables and plants are hard to come by, even at a garden centre in some cases. Oftentimes, you can get them from another gardener. Community gardens are great places to share plants!
Sunchokes
Also known as Jerusalem artichokes, these are edible tubers that can be cooked and eaten like a potato. Above ground, they sprout very tall, sunflower-like flowers. They can get up to 5-10 feet tall.
The tubers are very prolific, coming back year after year, even when you think you’ve harvested all of them. They’re very low maintenance.
They have a slightly nutty flavour and should only be eaten in controlled amounts due to causing gas and bloating.
Harvest sunchokes in the fall.
Radish Pods
While radishes may be a very popular vegetable, their seed pods are a lesser-known way of enjoying the vegetable. I came to know radish pods after volunteering at UBC to teach inner-city kids about gardening. Their gardens would be left alone in the summer, meaning the radishes would go unharvested and go to seed.
The radish pods have a slightly spicy taste and an appearance similar to edamame. You can eat them raw like a snap pea or include them in stir-fries, soups, or salads.
Rhubarb
Yes, you can technically get rhubarb at the grocery store. But most people don’t since it’s not the typical kind of plant you seek out. Instead, you usually have a plant in your backyard, or you’re gifted some rhubarb…and realize you’ve got to do something with it!
But I highly recommend we start making rhubarb more mainstream. It’s very prolific, it’s easy to grow, and it’s a perennial.
This article idea all began with Egyptian walking onions since you can’t really buy them. I inherited my own from a community garden. And once you have them, you’re set.
They get their name from the unusual way they grow. The flowers that bloom at the top of the flower turn into tiny bulbs known as aerial bulbils. As the plant gets heavier, they droop down until the tiny bulbs hit the ground. They plant themselves, slowly walking around the garden.
Ground Cherries
Ground cherries grow low to the ground, with plenty of dark green leaves and small yellow flowers that turn into golden, cherry-sized fruit.
Their taste is similar to tomatillos, with a hint of pineapple flavour. And unlike some other unusual vegetables on this list, they last in their paper husks for up to 3 months. They have built-in storage with their paper husks.
All plants, including ground cherries, in the Physalis genus have papery husks known as calyx.
Luffa Gourds
There’s a chance you’ve had a luffa gourd in your house and didn’t know it. These exotic vegetables are actually most commonly used as an organic shower loofah, but they’re also edible.
They grow on very vigorous vines. When young and tender, you can eat them, and they taste like summer squash. When left to mature on the vibe, they turn fibrous and can dry into these natural shower loofahs.
Tayberry
Tayberries are a cross between raspberries and blackberries. When perfectly ripe, they have a very sweet flavour, but you have to get the timing right, or they’re quite sour.
These berries will turn to mush and fall apart very soon after you pick them. They’re best eaten straight from the vine and won’t ripen anymore once picked.
But in the end, I personally think they’re tastier than both raspberries and blackberries!
These berries take longer to ripen and need to be a bit squishy so they’re not too sour.
Cucamelons
You might know these little green fruits as mouse melons or Mexican sour gherkins. These were a common fruit eaten by the Aztec people and have lost popularity over the years. But they look like little grape-sized watermelons!
Cucamelons taste almost like a citrusy cucumber. I like to pickle them or toss them into salads. Or popped straight from the vine and into my mouth.
Eat a cucamelon in its entirety, popping the skin, seed, and fruit in your mouth.
Honourable Mentions
As I’ve mentioned, I could add many rare vegetables and other edibles to the list. Here are a few unusual vegetables and plants that are worth mentioning:
Fuki is the (transliterated) Japanese name for the perennial plant butterbur. In Japan, fuki no to, the aromatic buds of butterbur, are a delicacy and a herald of spring, which is still weeks away when they emerge from the cold ground. Butterburs belong to the genus Petasites, and North America is home to a cold-hardy native species as well as introduced butterburs, which are valued as ornamentals in gardens. Their parasol-wide leaves are awe-inspiring, as they broaden in summer. The midribs of fuki leaves are also eaten in Japan, and were a traditional food for Native Americans. All edible parts of the plant are specially treated before consumption. Fuki comes with caveats.
Celebrate winter’s demise with a bite of fuki tempura or miso, and learn more about this plant-of-many-names.
Fuki, butterbur, sweet coltsfoot, Arctic coltsfoot, Arctic butterbur, pestilence wort. These common names are used close to interchangeably, depending on the person, place, species, and variety of Petasites. Japanese butterbur is Petasites japonicus, and its chartreuse-shaded buds break ground many weeks before the vernal equinox in the Northeast, where it is mildly invasive. Its buds appear when cornelian cherry, hellebores, fragrant honeysuckle, and witch hazel bloom. It is native to East Asia and is hardy from USDA zones 5-9. While Japanese butterbur is known as a good plant for problem places, this has led unintentionally to some environmental issues: Petasites in general can be aggressive colonizers and have a high tolerance for moist spots. Butterburs spread via creeping rhizomes, and their wide, leafy canopies create a super-shade where other plants cannot grow.
[galley_caption]Above: Artist Justice Wolf of Little Creek Ink, standing beneath mature fuki leaves.[/galley_caption]
The densely budded but diminutive flower buds of Japanese butterbur give way to leaves that are otherworldly in scale, like a botanical throwback to dinosaur times. A mature plant can stand over six feet tall, with foliage that instantly shrinks the human standing beneath the statuesque stems.
Above: Petasites hybridus has burgundy buds.
A burgundy-flowered butterbur, Petasites hybridus, is native to Europe and parts of Asia. It enjoys a common name (among many others) that inadvertently captures two sides of a botanical argument: Pestilence wort. You could read that as referring to an environmental threat, or to its extensive use as a folk medicine. (It has been studied in the treatment of migraines.) Of these two species, Japanese butterbur is considered more problematic in terms of habitat-alteration.
In British Columbia, forager Matt McAllister collects the buds of Petasites frigidus for market.
This native North American butterbur comprises four different varieties, occurring from northern California through the Pacific Northwest, Canada and Alaska, into the Arctic, and across the continent, to the Atlantic coast. It, too, likes wet growing conditions (stream banks, ditches, low ground), and has a long history of use as food by Native Americans nations (Moerman, 1998), who collected buds, leaf petioles (stalks), and young leaves.
Above: A Hudson Valley collection of early, mostly invasive, spring edibles, including Japanese butterbur.
Are you looking for advice on the best plants for outdoor pots?
Whether you’re a beginner gardener who’d like to start small with plants in containers, or a seasoned pro who’s keen on planting outdoor pots, there’s lots here to inspire you.
This post on the best plants for pots lists over 30 fantastic low maintenance plants for outdoor pots. I’ve also included simple tips for taking care of your plants so that they thrive and provide you with a gorgeous display, and a quick guide to the basic tools you need for planting containers.
The benefits of growing plants in pots
Growing plants in pots has lots of advantages.
If you’re new to gardening, growing plants in pots is a great way to get started. You can keep things small-scale, moving onto larger displays as you learn and become more confident.
The other element of container gardening that suits new gardeners is the low maintenance aspect. It’s easier and quicker to take care of a plant in a pot than it is to keep on top of a whole garden border. In addition, containers are relatively portable, so if your plant is struggling you can easily move it to a different location before it’s too late.
That portability is a big plus for renters too, because you can take your plants with you when you move.
Containers are also perfect for gardening in small spaces. You don’t even need a garden; you can tuck a pot onto a balcony, outside a front door, or on a window ledge. This makes growing plants in pots a super-easy way to green up your outdoor space regardless of its size.
Gardening in pots, baskets and containers allows you to adjust the height of your garden too. This is particularly helpful if your movement is restricted, or you struggle to garden at ground level. Being able to play with height is also a fantastic way to create a bigger display of plants and flowers in a small space by using a range of pot sizes, trellis or even shelving.
Container gardening is also ideal for children. Kids love having their very own pot to take care of, and it’s easy for them to plant in a smaller space. You can introduce some fun crafting too, by decorating their pot or making plant markers.
Finally, if you don’t have lots of time for gardening, concentrating on growing plants in pots is a good compromise. The smaller scale translates into less time dealing with watering, weeding and pests – and you won’t have to do any digging!
It’s not hard to see why container gardening is so popular, is it?
Do plants grow better in pots or in the ground?
Some plants are better suited to growing in the ground, and some will be more than happy growing in a pot. Choose plants that are well-suited to growing in container planters, and you stand a much better chance of creating a healthy and beautiful container garden. In the gardening world this if often referred to as ‘right plant, right place’.
Right plant, right place
You might have come across the saying ‘right plant, right place’ already; it’s a key element of good garden design, and is often mentioned in gardening programmes and magazines. It’s a simple but powerful approach to helping your plants thrive, and it’s well worth taking a little bit of time to understand the concept.
All plants – regardless of what you grow them in – have their own set of conditions that they will thrive in. Put your plant somewhere that provides these conditions, and you’re already well on the way to making it happy.
The flip side of this idea is that by forcing a plant to grow in conditions it doesn’t naturally enjoy, you will automatically limit how well it does.
The ‘right plant, right place’ concept goes a long way towards explaining why you might have lost plants in the past, and also gives you a simple framework for growing your plants going forward.
So how do you work out the conditions that your plants need? First of all, check the care label. If you don’t have one, look the plant up online, or use a plant identification app. Some plants need full sun, while others are happy growing in full shade. Your plant may need a high humidity level, or love to bake in dry heat. Once you’re armed with this information, you can choose the perfect spot for your container and make sure you’ve given your plants the best possible chance of doing well.
The difference between annual and perennial plants for outdoor pots
If you’re relatively new to gardening, here’s a quick guide to the difference between annual and perennial plants. This will come in handy when you’re choosing your plants and setting your budget.
Annual plants grow, flower and die in one growing season, or year. As a result, you will usually need to replace them with new plants every year.
Perennial plants will grow year after year. They might die back in winter and grow again in spring, or be evergreen. Either way, you shouldn’t need to replace them on a regular basis.
The majority of plants sold in garden centres and online for container planting are annual plants. They’re often labelled as ‘bedding plants’ and common varieties include begonia, pansies, petunia, lobelia and marigolds.
Absolutely. If your perennial plant is suited to growing in a pot, there’s no reason not to. In fact, growing perennial plants in containers is a much more cost-effective way of gardening. It also opens up the range of plants available to you significantly. You can grow flowering plants, shrubs and even small trees perfectly well in pots, if you choose the right variety. Read on to find out what perennials do well in pots.
The best low maintenance plants for outdoor pots
So you’re raring to go with container gardening, and now it’s time to choose your plants. Here are my top picks for low maintenance plants for outdoor pots that will help you create stunning container displays.
Perennial plants for pots
Standard shrubs
A standard shrub is a shrub that has been grown into a specific shape. This is often a lollipop-shape that resembles the structure of a small tree. Standard shrubs are ideal plants to grow in containers, and can be used to create a big impact. They also make ideal tall plants for pots.
Great low-maintenance standard shrubs for outdoor pots include bay, photinia, wisteria, holly and ornamental cherries. I have a miniature ornamental cherry called Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’ which is an absolute stunner in springtime.
Roses
There are many varieties of roses which are well-suited to growing in pots. As the name suggests, a patio rose variety is a perfect choice. I love the white simplicity of ‘Bianco’, but there’s a wide range of colours to choose from.
Succulents
You probably associate succulents with indoor plants, but many varieties are ideal for outdoor pots. You can plant several varieties together to create a desert garden effect, or stick to one type for a more contemporary look. Succulents look fantastic against a gravel background, this is a great way to stop soil splashing onto the leaves too.
Succulents are very low maintenance outdoor potted plants, but they don’t enjoy sitting in soggy soil. Make sure you give them plenty of drainage.
Camellias
If you’d like to introduce an evergreen shrub to your container display, consider a camellia. Their deep green glossy leaves provide interest all year round, and they put on a stunning flower display in early spring. You do need to plant camellias in ericaceous compost and grow them in a sheltered position, but if you get both of these things right they don’t need much in the way of maintenance.
Agapanthus
The restrictive nature of a pot works in your favour when it comes to agapanthus, because it makes the plant produce more flowers. Agapanthus will provide height and showy blooms during summer months, and shades range from white to deep blue. I think they work particularly well in a contemporary setting, and also against a dark backdrop which makes the colour sing out.
Box
If you’d like a formal, sleek look for your container, a clipped box plant is the way to go. These plants are slow-growing, so they’re not cheap to buy, but you can go for a small plant to keep costs down. Having said that, if it’s large plants for pots you’re after, a large box in a lovely pot can make a fabulous focal point.
Because box is slow-growing, you’ll only need to give it a trim every year or so. The rest of the time all it needs is water. Do check whether you live in an area that has a problem with box blight or box tree caterpillar before you buy; if you’re concerned you could go for an alternative evergreen such as yew or bay.
Dwarf buddleja
Dwarf buddlejas are designed to be grown in pots, and offer the low maintenance floral impact of a traditional buddleja plant in a much more compact area. They’re also a fantastic plant for pollinating insects, and particularly loved by butterflies.
Dwarf Lavatera
This is another traditionally large plant that has recently been introduced as a dwarf variety for container gardeners. Dwarf lavatera (or mallow) is a tough plant that will cope with a bit of neglect, and produces masses of pale pink blooms on tall stems. It’s another great plant for pollinating insects too.
Lavender
Lavender is a traditional cottage garden plant, but it also looks amazing in a more contemporary setting. You can also plant lavender in pots. Choose a hardy English variety and you will keep the maintenance to a minimum. Lavender enjoys good drainage, so don’t overwater it. It’s a good idea to plant lavender companion plants alongside to boost wow factor.
Spring flowering bulbs
*Bulbs are well-suited to growing in pots, and you can create a lovely display in spring before your other plants get going. A particularly clever way of doing this is to plant a bulb lasagne, which involves layering your bulbs up in a pot to extend the flowering period. My post on planting a bulb lasagne shows you how to do this.
Hardy geraniums
Hardy geraniums are really low-maintenance, unfussy flowers for pots. They will happily grow in containers, where they will produce masses of flowers for very little effort. You can also divide them when they get bigger and make new plants for free!
Hostas
You don’t have to have flowers to make a big impact in a container. With their large, textured leaves, hostas are perfect specimen plants for containers, providing an impressive foliage display. An added bonus of growing them in pots is that you can keep the slugs and snails off them much more easily.
Heucheras
Another great option for foliage, heucheras are available in many colours from deep purples through to golden bronzes. They work really nicely alongside flowering plants, but also look great on their own or as several different colours grouped together in their own pots.
Hydrangeas
We tend to think of hydrangeas as great big garden border plants, but they will also be happy to grow on a smaller scale in a container. Hydrangeas bloom for months, so you can create real wow factor over a long period of time from just one pot. Do check water levels regularly, as they are thirsty plants.
Grasses
Ornamental grasses are fantastic plants for outdoor pots. Use them to add height, texture and movement to a display. I love using grasses as a foliage backdrop with annual flowering plants. Grasses are also brilliant for providing structure and interest over the winter months; some are evergreen, but even the ones that die back can look stunning if you leave the dead stems intact.
Annual plants for pots
When it comes to annual plants for outdoor pots, there’s a wide range to choose from. Here are my favourite low-maintenance annuals for containers.
Osteospermum
Also known as African Daisies, Osteospermum have lots of cheery daisy-like flowers and are available in a range of colours. I like using them alongside smaller-flowered plants such as lobelia.
Lobelia
Lobelia is a great plant for bulking out a container display. It’s covered in tiny little blue, white or purple flowers, and just keeps on going. You can buy standard or trailing lobelia varieties; I think the trailing ones are particularly useful in containers, as they allow you to soften edges and continue the display over a larger area. They’re one of the best plants for hanging flower baskets too.
Petunias
Petunias are hugely popular container plants, and for good reason. They’re easy to grow, produce masses of flowers, and come in a wide range of colours. If you deadhead them regularly, they will flower for months too.
Verbena
Annual verbena is another versatile bedding plant that you can combine with other plants to create a colourful display. I like to use white varieties of verbena in combination with stronger colours to provide contrast, but there are shades of pink and purple if you’d prefer more ‘oomph’.
Pansies & Violas
Another great low-maintenance annual, pansies and violas will grow pretty much anywhere. They’re happy to flower in colder months too, making them perfect for adding winter interest to your garden.
Sunflowers
Not all sunflowers are six foot giants! There are lots of smaller varieties that are well-suited to containers, including our favourite *Teddy Bear which as you might imagine is wonderfully fluffy.
As well as being real showstoppers, sunflowers will provide your local birds and pollinating insects with a source of food. Sunflowers are perfect plants to grow with kids too. My step-by-step guide to growing sunflowers in pots includes planting advice, care tips and good varieties to grow.
Nigella
Nigella is a truly low-maintenance plant for outdoor pots. You literally scatter the *seeds on the soil, and leave them to grow. Nigella likes to seed itself around the garden, so you may well find more plants growing next year with zero effort from you.
Nasturtium
*Nasturtiums are ideal plants for hanging baskets and pots, providing a bright shot of colour throughout summer. They will tolerate poor soil and cope with whatever space you give them, and as an added bonus the flowers are edible.
Wildflowers
Don’t assume that you need a huge meadow to grow wildflowers. Even a small pot of *wildflowers can provide a rich habitat for local wildlife and a beautiful cottage-garden style display of blooms. Wildflowers are ridiculously low-maintenance too; scatter the seeds, rake them in lightly, water, and that’s it. If you’d like to grow them with the kids, check out my post on growing wildflowers.
Coleus
For striking foliage, you can’t beat coleus. They look brilliant planted together, or used as accents in a mixed container. Some varieties prefer sun and some prefer shade, so check the label before you buy. You can have a go at turning coleus into a houseplant over winter, moving it back into the garden once all chance of frost has gone.
Cineraria
Another fantastic foliage plant for containers, cineraria has beautiful silvery leaves that work really well against pink and purple flowers. Pretty much every container in my garden has cineraria in it! If your garden is in a sheltered spot, the plants may well survive over winter.
Ivy
Last on my list is good old ivy. It’s a trailing plant, so you can use it to extend a display over the edges of your pot, and you can choose from varieties with all-green or variegated leaves to suit your finished look. Growing ivy in containers also means you avoid the problem of it getting out of hand and taking over!
Tips for looking after potted outdoor plants
Getting the right low maintenance plants for outdoor pots is a big part of making a success of container gardens, but there are also a few other factors which will have an impact. Take a look at these simple tips for taking care of outdoor plants in pots, and you’ll be well on the way to becoming a container gardening pro.
The best containers for outdoor plants
When it comes to the actual pots you grow your plants in, there are only a couple of rules. The most important one is to make sure your pot has drainage holes in the bottom. Most plants hate to have their roots sitting in a puddle, and you can quickly kill a plant this way. If your pot doesn’t have holes, you need to either make some (a hammer and a nail do the job nicely on plastic and metal pots), or add an inner plant pot which does have drainage holes before planting.
The other key area to consider is the size of your container. Think about the number of plants you want to grow in it, and the eventual size they will reach. The plant’s label should tell you the size, or you can look it up online. Choose a size that will suit your plants for at least a year, to give them plenty of room to thrive and avoid the need to repot them regularly.
Other than that, it’s really up to you when it comes to the shape, colour, material and style of your pots. You can match the style to your existing outdoor space, or mix things up a bit. There’s also tonnes of potential to upcycle and recycle containers; old teapots, sinks, chimney pots, wellies and storage crates all work well. Just remember to add those drainage holes.
Choosing compost for plants grown in outdoor pots
Compost matters more than ever when plants are grown in pots. If you grow plants in the ground, their roots have easy access to nutrients in the soil, and aren’t restricted by the limits of a pot. In contrast, plants that are grown in containers will quickly exhaust the nutrients available to them from the compost.
For this reason, it’s always a good idea to use a good quality, *peat-free compost for your container plants. A general-purpose compost will be fine for most plants, but some plants require specific compost to help them thrive. Check your plant label for this information.
You can also buy compost that’s designed specifically to support plants grown in containers and hanging baskets. This usually has water-retaining crystals and slow-release fertiliser added. It’s not essential to use this when planting your pots, but it can help reduce the amount of plant maintenance required. If you don’t have lots of time, or tend to neglect your plants, I think it’s a good option.
For more advice on compost and container plants, head over to my guide to the best compost for pots.
Should I repot my plants after buying?
Generally, you should aim to repot your plants into your own containers as soon as you get them home. Ease the pot away from the plant, and you will probably find that the roots are quite compacted. This means the plant will benefit from a larger pot with more compost.
The exception to this rule is when you buy plants that are already potted into an ornamental pot, or a pre-planted container display such as a hanging basket. In both these situations, the plants should already have been provided with the right sized container.
Feeding plants growing in outdoor pots
As your container plants will use up the nutrients in the compost, you should feed them regularly to help them thrive. A general purpose plant food is a simple option, but if you’re growing fruit and veg in containers make sure you go for a plant food designed specifically for these.
Plant food is available in a few different formats. The most common is a *concentrated liquid, which you dilute according to the pack instructions and use to water your plants. You can also buy *granules which should be scattered on the surface of the soil and lightly raked in, and *ready-to-use liquid feed which you just pour into the pot. This last option is great if you’re a bit daunted by the idea of getting the feeding right, but it’s not the cheapest or most recycling-friendly choice.
If you like the idea of being self-sufficient, or are gardening on a budget, you can also make your own natural plant feed from comfrey or nettle leaves. This is a great option for organic gardening. Here’s how to do it:
Drainage for plants grown in pots
I’ve already talked about drainage in terms of holes in the bottom of your container. It’s also a good idea to pop a few stones or broken pieces of terracotta pot into the bottom before you add your compost.
If you’re thinking ‘why do I need to put rocks in the bottom of a planter?’, here’s the answer. Adding a layer of stones will increase the container’s ability to drain away excess water, which in turn helps to provide a more balanced growing environment. This is particularly important in the colder months of the year.
Watering container plants
When it comes to water, a container plant is more reliant on you than a plant that’s grown in the ground. A container will generally dry out much quicker than a garden bed, and not just because there’s a limit on the water in there. The sides of a pot are more exposed to warmer temperatures, which heats up the soil and in turn speeds up evaporation.
In warmer months, check the soil in your containers regularly. If it feels dry to touch, you need to water them. Another telltale sign is drooping plants, but ideally you should move in with the watering can before this stage.
Try to avoid watering your containers at the warmest part of the day, so you don’t lose as much water to evaporation. Watering in the early morning is ideal, and the next best option is early evening.
You could also add some *watering retaining crystals to your compost when potting up your containers. This will help to keep moisture levels more steady, and should mean you need to water your pots less frequently.
In colder months, you may not need to water your containers at all, but it’s still worth checking the soil regularly.
How to keep container plants flowering for longer
Having invested time and money in your plants for outdoor pots, it makes sense to try and get the best display out of them for as long as possible. Deadheading is a simple way to do just that.
Deadheading involves removing any flowers that are drooping, dead, or forming seed heads. Doing this stops the plant setting seed, and makes it produce more flowers instead.
To deadhead your plants, you simply pinch or snip off the old flower heads. You can use your fingers, but a pair of *snips will make the job a lot quicker.
Try to deadhead your plants regularly for the best results.
The best tools for growing plants in containers
Container gardening doesn’t require much in the way of garden tools and equipment. Having said that, there are a few items that will make life easier.
As well as containers, it’s a good idea to buy a *hand trowel. You can use this for the majority of your planting and re-potting jobs, and it’s also handy for weeding.
I’d also recommend a decent pair of *gardening gloves to protect your hands. Look for a pair that you can move properly in while wearing them – it sounds obvious, but not every pair will be a good fit.
I think a *watering can is also an essential piece of kit. Choose one with a ‘rose’ head attachment, this will help to avoid washing away the top layer of compost in your pots with a big gush of water. I actually like to use my daughter’s *mini watering can for my smaller containers, because it makes it even easier to control the flow.
Finally, a pair of *secateurs will come in handy for pruning and deadheading.
This is really all the kit you need to grow plants in containers. You are of course more than welcome to get carried away with all manner of extra gadgets if you’d like to!
A checklist for low maintenance outdoor potted plants
Here’s a quick checklist to help you grow beautiful outdoor plants in pots:
Right plant, right place: choose plants that suit the conditions in your garden (sunny spot, partial shade, direct sunlight, indirect light, low light, full sun exposure, shady spot, dry conditions etc.)
Annual plants grow, flower and die in one growing season; perennial plants grow year after year.
Use our list of great container plants to select your favourite plants; they all require little maintenance. Popular flowering plants for pots, herbaceous perennials, evergreen plants, drought-tolerant plants, dwarf varieties, colourful flowers, taller plants and foliage plants are all included.
Make sure your container has drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
When choosing pot size, think about the number of young plants in it, and how big they will eventually grow. A large plant needs a large pot; small plants will be happy in small pots.
Use good quality peat-free compost for outdoor container plants. Aim for well-draining soil.
Check how dry the soil is regularly, and water if necessary. Aim for regular watering and moist soil.
Feed your container plants regularly with a general purpose plant food. This can be concentrated liquid, water-soluble fertiliser, or ready-to-pour.
Deadhead your plants to encourage more beautiful flowers.
Good choice gardening tools for container growing: hand trowel, gardening gloves, watering can and secateurs.
More gardening inspiration
If you’d like to explore some other gardening projects and ideas, take a look at these posts.
I hope this guide to the best low-maintenance plants for outdoor pots has given you lots of container gardening ideas and inspiration, and helps you to create a beautiful container display. What container plants are top of your wish list?
If you’ve enjoyed this post and found it useful, here are some ways you can say thanks and support Growing Family:
If you live in a hot summer climate, plant these ten perennial herbs once, and you’ll enjoy harvests for years!
A perennial is a species that completes its life cycle over three or more years, with the ability to survive both winter and summer and can be harvested without killing the plant. Each one of these herbs has survived for several years in my low desert Arizona garden.
Perennial herbs are a simple way to increase production and yield in the garden. Once you plant them, you can harvest them for years to come!
10 Perennial Herbs Every Gardener in Hot Summer Climate Should Grow
1. Bay Laurel
Bay Laurel is a slow grower and can take up to 2 years to establish, but once it does, it can survive for many years.
2. Lemon Grass
Lemon grass is easy to grow and requires very little maintenance. It grows well in partial sun or full sun and well-drained soil.
I like to grow sage in the corner of a raised bed. It prefers well-drained soil with full sunlight. Give this perennial herb a trim in early spring and again at the end of summer to keep it looking it’s best.
When choosing a transplant, rub a leaf to smell the aroma. Choose plants with the most potent aroma for the best flavor. Planting oregano in pots or containers is a great option to prevent spreading.
Thyme is my favorite perennial herb for cooking. I usually grow thyme in several locations throughout my garden. It does best with afternoon shade during the summer.
Mint can spread, so grow in containers. This tough plant often dies back during the hottest months of the year but usually returns with abundant growth in the fall.
For no good reason at all, there is still an annual debate about when you should clean up your garden. Well debate no more, because as far as I’m concerned, the answer is that you should do what’s best for you. But there are some compelling reasons to sit tight until spring to clean up your garden.
Allium ‘Millennium’ holds up all winter with golden yellow, hollow stems, that are friendly to overwintering insects.
1.SUPPORT YOUR GARDEN’S ECOSYSTEM
Letting plants stand for winter provides a host of benefits for the critters that you share your garden with (whether you realize they are there or not). Birds forage from seedheads, mammals find shelter, and insects hole up in nooks and crannies, or hollow stems. A thriving ecosystem is a boon for any garden, not to mention the environment in general.
Those same alliums look even better with bit of frosting-like snow.
2. BEAUTIFUL WINTER INTEREST
“Dead” plants can be beautiful. Shades of yellow and brown that catch the sun just so accent textures that rise above dull, dormant lawns or snow. Snow sits on seed heads like adorable little caps. OK, maybe that’s all a little romantic, but if you’ve ever toiled through a long, bleak winter, you know that anything that makes the gray outdoors a little bit more interesting is a good thing. Your plants are up for the job.
Ornamental grasses like this Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ offer all the benefits of other plants left to stand over winter, with the addition of movement.
3. YOUR PLANTS WILL THANK YOU
Snow is an excellent insulator, and anytime there is a big shift in temperatures in winter, plants fare much better with a blanket of snow protecting them from those extremes. Standing plant material helps snow collect around the crown of a plant—the most delicate part—and adds extra protection on the root zone. And when temperatures start warming, that snow melts and provides a nice drink for plants.
Early snowfall? Take it as one more sign to hold off until spring to clean up the garden.
4. IT’S EASIER
Embrace your inner lazy gardener and take the easy way out by cleaning up in spring. There’s less plant material to clean up in spring as some has been dealt with by animals or simple already broken down into a state that doesn’t need cleaning up. The plant material that is left tends to be light, crispy and brittle so it can over simply be broken off and should it need to be moved, it’s much lighter than it was in spring. You can leave the wheelbarrow parked behind the garage if you employ the “chop and drop” method in which you simply chop the standing material up into pieces and let it lie where it lands.
From a functional standpoint, it’s a perfect mulch, returning nutrients right back to where they came from, covering the soil around plants and quick to break down. It lacks a bit in the aesthetics department, but since it breaks down quickly it doesn’t take long for the garden to look perfectly tidy again, especially as new foliage covers the worst bits.
There’s no law that says you have to choose the same strategy for your entire garden. I like to do a pretty thorough cleanup on any parts of the garden that immediately border a walkway or patio that will need to be shoveled when the snow flies. If there are plants that have flopped over in an unappealing fashion, I don’t feel bad given them the chop in fall.
So plant some bulbs, pick some apples or carve some pumpkins. Enjoy autumn without stressing over having to clean up the garden.
If you live in a hot climate, growing herbs may seem like a daunting task. Don’t worry, it’s possible! With the right knowledge, you can grow herbs that thrive in the heat. Not only will they add flavor to your meals, but they will also attract beneficial insects to your garden.
In this blog post, I’ll share tips on how to plant, care for, and harvest perennial herbs in hot summer climates so that you can enjoy a bountiful herb garden year-round.
10 Tips for Growing Delicious Herbs in Hot Summer Climates
1. Learn about the herbs you want to grow and the best times to plant
Herbs are classified as annuals, biennials, or perennials.
Annuals complete their life cycle in one growing season. Biennials typically grow the first year, flower, set seed the second year, and then die. Perennials usually live for three years or more.
Harvested rosemary
Living in a hot climate means many herbs are perennial and come back year after year. Plant perennial herbs in the spring and the fall.
Herbs do best with 6-8 hours of sun; afternoon shade is preferred in hot summers. However, many herbs tolerate full afternoon sun even in hot climates like the low desert of Arizona. They include rosemary, lavender, garlic chives, lemongrass, oregano, and basil.
Thyme
That being said, herbs are grown for their leaves, and fruiting isn’t required. If you have a shady spot in your garden, herbs are one crop that will tolerate shade more than other plants.
Herbs that tolerate partial shade (3-4 hours sun) include chervil, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, chives, thyme, ginger, lemon verbena, bay, mint, oregano, sage, and turmeric.
3. Plant in a location with good drainage
Good drainage is essential, especially for Mediterranean herbs like oregano, sage, lavender, rosemary, and thyme. These herbs are adapted to growing in dry, rocky, and well-drained soil.
Sage
Herbs are not tolerant of wet or waterlogged soil, which can lead to root rot and other diseases. To thrive, they require soil that drains easily and allows excess water to escape quickly.
4. Learn how to care for herbs throughout the year
Flowering sage
Year-Round Tips for Perennial Herbs
Spring: Good time to plant. Prune off woody growth. Lightly prune by ⅓ and amend with compost.
Summer: Do not prune much or overwater. Allow plants to go into summer dormancy (survival mode).
Fall: Good time to plant. Lightly prune by ⅓ and amend with compost.
Winter: Reduce watering and harvest less – helps plants go dormant and withstand frost damage.
5. Grow invasive herbs in a container
Herbs with spreading roots that do best in containers are herbs in the mint and oregano families.
10 Tips for How to Grow Herbs in Hot Summer Climates (cont.)
6. Harvest seeds before they drop and spread
Dill seeds
Some herbs, such as chamomile, dill, garlic chives, fennel,and cilantro, produce many seeds that can spread throughout the garden.
Saved seeds
If you want to save the seeds, allow them to dry on the plant, but cut off the seed head before they begin falling off. Store the seed head in a paper sack to continue drying. Learn more about how to save seeds in this blog post.
7. Don’t overfertilize or overwater herbs
Basil
Don’t overfertilize herbs – this promotes lush green growth at the expense of flavor and scent. The herb oils won’t be as concentrated. Adding compost twice a year is plenty.
Don’t overwater herbs – they require less water than vegetables and flowers. Flavor and scent intensify if you water correctly. Herbs are often killed by overwatering.
8. Use herbs to attract beneficial insects
Pests rarely cause significant damage to herbs. On the contrary, herbs are crucial for attracting, feeding, and housing beneficial insects and pollinators to your garden. Plant various herbs throughout your garden and allow them to flower.
Fennel
Beneficial Insect & Pollinator-Friendly Herbs That Grow Easily From Seed:
Use them. The bestthing about growing all of these herbs is you usually don’t have to preserve them. You have ready access to them all year long. Don’t forget to harvest and use them.
Herbs hanging to dry
Harvest herbs regularly, picking lightly all over to encourage bushy growth. Avoid harvesting more than ⅓ of the plant, and aim to harvest just before flowering for the most flavorful herbs. After flowering, cut back the herbs.
Harvested thyme
Herbs generally have the most flavor just before flowering. Use a sharp, clean knife or scissors to harvest. Harvest from all over the plant if possible. After harvesting, wash, rinse, pat dry, or let air dry. Remove leaves from tough stalks and stems.
10. Learn how to preserve herbs
Herbs can be preserved through short-term storage, freezing, drying, and freeze-drying. Each method has unique benefits and is best for certain types of herbs.
If this post about how to grow herbs in hot climates was helpful, please share it:
If you live in a hot summer climate, plant these ten perennial herbs once, and you’ll enjoy harvests for years!
A perennial is a species that completes its life cycle over three or more years, with the ability to survive both winter and summer and can be harvested without killing the plant. Each one of these herbs has survived for several years in my low desert Arizona garden.
Perennial herbs are a simple way to increase production and yield in the garden. Once you plant them, you can harvest them for years to come!
10 Perennial Herbs Every Gardener in Hot Summer Climate Should Grow
1. Bay Laurel
Bay Laurel is a slow grower and can take up to 2 years to establish, but once it does, it can survive for many years.
2. Lemon Grass
Lemon grass is easy to grow and requires very little maintenance. It grows well in partial sun or full sun and well-drained soil.
I like to grow sage in the corner of a raised bed. It prefers well-drained soil with full sunlight. Give this perennial herb a trim in early spring and again at the end of summer to keep it looking it’s best.
When choosing a transplant, rub a leaf to smell the aroma. Choose plants with the most potent aroma for the best flavor. Planting oregano in pots or containers is a great option to prevent spreading.
Thyme is my favorite perennial herb for cooking. I usually grow thyme in several locations throughout my garden. It does best with afternoon shade during the summer.
Mint can spread, so grow in containers. This tough plant often dies back during the hottest months of the year but usually returns with abundant growth in the fall.
For no good reason at all, there is still an annual debate about when you should clean up your garden. Well debate no more, because as far as I’m concerned, the answer is that you should do what’s best for you. But there are some compelling reasons to sit tight until spring to clean up your garden.
Allium ‘Millennium’ holds up all winter with golden yellow, hollow stems, that are friendly to overwintering insects.
1.SUPPORT YOUR GARDEN’S ECOSYSTEM
Letting plants stand for winter provides a host of benefits for the critters that you share your garden with (whether you realize they are there or not). Birds forage from seedheads, mammals find shelter, and insects hole up in nooks and crannies, or hollow stems. A thriving ecosystem is a boon for any garden, not to mention the environment in general.
Those same alliums look even better with bit of frosting-like snow.
2. BEAUTIFUL WINTER INTEREST
“Dead” plants can be beautiful. Shades of yellow and brown that catch the sun just so accent textures that rise above dull, dormant lawns or snow. Snow sits on seed heads like adorable little caps. OK, maybe that’s all a little romantic, but if you’ve ever toiled through a long, bleak winter, you know that anything that makes the gray outdoors a little bit more interesting is a good thing. Your plants are up for the job.
Ornamental grasses like this Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’ offer all the benefits of other plants left to stand over winter, with the addition of movement.
3. YOUR PLANTS WILL THANK YOU
Snow is an excellent insulator, and anytime there is a big shift in temperatures in winter, plants fare much better with a blanket of snow protecting them from those extremes. Standing plant material helps snow collect around the crown of a plant—the most delicate part—and adds extra protection on the root zone. And when temperatures start warming, that snow melts and provides a nice drink for plants.
Early snowfall? Take it as one more sign to hold off until spring to clean up the garden.
4. IT’S EASIER
Embrace your inner lazy gardener and take the easy way out by cleaning up in spring. There’s less plant material to clean up in spring as some has been dealt with by animals or simple already broken down into a state that doesn’t need cleaning up. The plant material that is left tends to be light, crispy and brittle so it can over simply be broken off and should it need to be moved, it’s much lighter than it was in spring. You can leave the wheelbarrow parked behind the garage if you employ the “chop and drop” method in which you simply chop the standing material up into pieces and let it lie where it lands.
From a functional standpoint, it’s a perfect mulch, returning nutrients right back to where they came from, covering the soil around plants and quick to break down. It lacks a bit in the aesthetics department, but since it breaks down quickly it doesn’t take long for the garden to look perfectly tidy again, especially as new foliage covers the worst bits.
There’s no law that says you have to choose the same strategy for your entire garden. I like to do a pretty thorough cleanup on any parts of the garden that immediately border a walkway or patio that will need to be shoveled when the snow flies. If there are plants that have flopped over in an unappealing fashion, I don’t feel bad given them the chop in fall.
So plant some bulbs, pick some apples or carve some pumpkins. Enjoy autumn without stressing over having to clean up the garden.
