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Tag: Pablo Helguera

  • The New Geography of the Art World in the Age of Acceleration

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    Art Mill Museum, Doha, designed by Chilean architect Alejandro Aravena and scheduled to open in 2030. Photo courtesy Qatar Museums

    Cranes hover above Saadiyat Island as the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi moves toward completion. In Thailand, Dib Bangkok added another institutional node to Southeast Asia’s expanding art landscape. And the Art Mill Museum in Doha will open its doors in 2030, signaling a long-term cultural horizon. Meanwhile, the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, has announced job cuts, the National Gallery in London has launched a voluntary exit scheme and MUSAC in León has seen its collecting and exhibition budgets shrink dramatically since its inception. The question is no longer whether the art world is expanding, but under what conditions institutions can sustain themselves and at what pace. The global art system is entering a structural shift in which cultural authority is shaped by uneven speeds of consolidation and retreat.

    When the center loses momentum

    In the United States, museums have long been funded by a hybrid model that was part philanthropy, part corporate sponsorship, part ticket revenue. That flexibility once appeared to be a strength. It enabled institutions to expand collections, mount blockbuster exhibitions and cultivate global audiences. But it also left them exposed to economic and political volatility. Federal arts funding remains comparatively modest and private donors can shift priorities quickly.

    Since President Trump took office, one-third of American museums have lost government grants or contracts, exacerbating an already fragile financial landscape in which more than a quarter of institutions report being worse off than in 2019. The effects have reached major museums, including Boston’s MFA, SFMOMA, the Kennedy Center, the Guggenheim, the Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive and the Contemporary Art Museum St. Louis.

    Regarding the financial precariousness of museums built primarily on private philanthropy, as is particularly the case now in the U.S., Dr. Georgina S. Walker, author of The Private Collector’s Museums: Public Good versus Private Gain, told Observer that “the recent period of rapid private museum building has fundamentally altered what is understood to be ‘a museum’ and the relevance of an art collection, and thus, maintaining personal collections and museums intact, and in perpetuity, has become less of a focus than it has been in the past.” She added that this situation is “due to the volatility of individual initiatives and sheer number of art projects that have materialized since the early 2000s.”

    The pressures are not confined to the United States. In the United Kingdom, cultural funding has been under strain since Brexit-era budget reductions, with institutions navigating years of tightened public support. The latest episode is unfolding at the National Gallery in London, which faces an £8.2 million deficit and has launched a voluntary exit scheme, with compulsory redundancies possible if savings targets are not met, as reported by Martin Bailey in the Art Newspaper.

    The façade of MUSAC, León (2005), designed by Mansilla + Tuñón and recipient of the 2007 Mies van der Rohe Award. Photo courtesy Ángel Marcos / MUSAC

    The strain extends beyond the United Kingdom. In Antwerp, the Museum of Contemporary Art M HKA was slated for dismantling as part of a broader restructuring of the Flemish cultural landscape before public backlash forced a reversal. In the Netherlands—long considered emblematic of Europe’s most generous subsidy model, especially during the 1980s—minister of education, culture and science Eppo Bruins announced in Parliament further reductions in cultural spending as part of broader budget reallocations aimed at increasing defense expenditure in response to geopolitical pressures, including the war in Ukraine. In Spain, the museum boom of the early 2000s produced landmark institutions such as MUSAC in León, inaugurated in 2005 with an initial acquisitions budget of €1.5 million. Today that figure has reportedly fallen to roughly €70,000, with some exhibitions extending for nine months at a time—a shift that reflects the narrowing operational capacity of many regional museums built during the expansionary years, including Domus Artium DA2 in Salamanca, TEA Tenerife, IVAM in Valencia and the Centro Niemeyer in Avilés.

    None of this signals collapse. Western museums remain powerful, globally connected and intellectually influential. But the assumption of institutional stability—once taken for granted—is increasingly conditional. Elsewhere, the trajectory looks markedly different.

    The long ascent at the margins

    For other regions, entry into the global mainstream followed a different rhythm. In Latin America, consolidation took roughly half a century. From the founding of the Bienal de São Paulo in 1951—long the region’s primary international platform—to the establishment of Tate’s Latin American Acquisitions Committee in 2002, which expanded representation in major Western collections, the path to sustained institutional visibility unfolded gradually. Milestones such as the Havana Biennial, founded in 1984, and the opening of the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires MALBA by the private collector Eduardo Costantini in 2001 strengthened regional infrastructure, while commercial platforms such as ZONAMACO in Mexico City, launched in 2002, and ARTBO in Bogotá, established in 2004, signaled a parallel effort to consolidate market presence. Yet much of the validation apparatus—auction houses, blue-chip galleries and critical publishing—remained concentrated in New York, London and Paris. As visibility expanded, authority often remained elsewhere.

    Installation view of “Flow, Flower: Bloom!” by Laure Prouvost, during the 36th Bienal de São Paulo. Natt Fejfar

    Pablo Helguera, artist and professor at the New School, reflected that “during the mid-20th Century, Latin American modernist artists were incorporated into international markets when their work could be aligned with dominant Western aesthetic movements. By contrast, in the 1990s, the rise of global biennial culture and postcolonial curatorial discourse shifted attention toward contextually grounded, post-conceptual practices which, together with the globalization of the art market and the expansion of institutional acquisitions and fairs, contributed to the increasing prominence of Latin American artists whose critical recognition translated into market value.”

    Asia’s trajectory has been markedly faster, from the launch of the Gwangju Biennale in 1995-established in dialogue with European curatorial models and shaped early on by figures such as Harald Szeemann to the opening of M+ in Hong Kong in 2021, now widely regarded as Asia’s most significant museum of visual culture—the region consolidated institutional scale in roughly a quarter-century. A decisive turning point came in 2013 with the inauguration of Art Basel Hong Kong, which repositioned the city as the central node of the Asian art market.

    Installation view of “Robert Rauschenberg and Asia” at M+ in 2025. Photo courtesy Dan Leung / M+, Hong Kong

    This perspective is echoed by Doryun Chong, artistic director and chief curator of M+ in Hong Kong, who opined that Art Basel Hong Kong “has helped establish and cement the city’s status as the premier hub for contemporary art trades in Asia,” while also contributing to “stimulate the growth of scenes in other Asian cities, from Seoul to Shanghai to Singapore.” He also pointed to the collaboration between Art Basel Hong Kong and M+ as “a unique example of long-term commercial-non-profit partnership that is still going strong.”

    A further view comes from Agnes Lin, founder and director of the Osage Foundation in Hong Kong. She argued that “the launch of Art Basel Hong Kong significantly elevated the city’s position within Asia by expanding awareness of international artists and stimulating stronger collecting interest across the region. It generated considerable energy and drew global attention, reinforcing Hong Kong’s role as a central hub in the regional art ecosystem.” Yet Lin noted the paradox that “while this transformation added dynamism, it also posed challenges for smaller galleries, which often found it harder to compete within a framework shaped by Art Basel’s strong brand identity and curatorial influence.”

    The contrast becomes clearer when viewed against Australia. Despite launching the Sydney Biennale in 1973 and establishing the Asia Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art APT in 1993—one of the earliest sustained platforms for contemporary Asian art and a key driver behind the Queensland Art Gallery’s emergence as one of the region’s most significant collectors—Australia has struggled to translate curatorial leadership into sustained global market centrality. Professor Emeritus John Clark of the University of Sydney argues that “Australia is too far away from New York-London-Paris-Basel for art market actors to come regularly, and its art market and institutional sales are too small to justify casual visits.” Early institutional initiative, in other words, did not automatically produce accelerated integration.

    Compressed growth at speed

    The Gulf operates at a markedly different tempo. In Doha, the opening of Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art in 2010 marked the consolidation of a state-led cultural strategy. The arrival of Art Basel Qatar in 2026 signals the integration of the most influential global fair brand into the regional ecosystem. In roughly 15 years, Qatar, Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Saudi Arabia have established institutional, art market and epistemic infrastructures operating at the highest tier of the international art world.

    With regard to the pace and structure of cultural development in the Gulf, particularly in Saudi Arabia, Dr. Alia Al-Senussi, who co-authored Art in Saudi Arabia: A New Creative Economy?, observed that “this began in approximately 2004-2005 with initiatives across the GCC, but the world’s attention is now on the Gulf because of the rapid acceleration in government initiatives related to art and culture, particularly in Saudi Arabia with Vision 2030.” She further noted that it is “not just a transactional moment of attention, but an ongoing dialogue … with the international art world,” suggesting that “the ancient trade routes are realigning and reigniting to recenter the world around the Gulf.”

    An interior view of Louvre Abu Dhabi, designed by architect Jean Nouvel, with the “rain of light” effect that mimics palm frond shadows in an oasis. Photo courtesy Agnieszka Stankiewicz / Unsplash

    Across the Gulf, this acceleration is constantly visible. The Louvre Abu Dhabi opened in 2017, with the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi nearing completion and Frieze Abu Dhabi set to launch in November 2026, further embedding the Gulf within the London-centered fair circuit. In Saudi Arabia, Saudi Vision 2030 has placed cultural development at the heart of national planning, from the transformation of AlUla and its partnership with the Centre Pompidou to the launch of the Diriyah Contemporary Art Biennale and the Islamic Arts Biennale held in Jeddah. In Qatar, alongside Art Basel Qatar, initiatives such as the Rubaiya Quadrennial reinforce the country’s ambition to consolidate curatorial authority as well as market presence. Museums, global fair platforms, large-scale biennials and universities such as VCUarts and NYU Abu Dhabi have emerged in close succession rather than over generations.

    This is not a reinvention of the art system. The white cube, the international biennial and the global art fair remain intact. What distinguishes the Gulf is the compression of time: infrastructures that evolved gradually over generations are being assembled within an accelerated timeframe by nation-led strategies that combine soft-power diplomacy, city branding and creative cultures with identity policies.

    A question of velocity

    Taken together, these divergent trajectories suggest that the global art system is no longer divided simply between center and periphery, nor between established and emerging markets. It is divided, increasingly, by institutional velocity. In Western Europe and the United States, museum ecosystems, market hierarchies and cultural authority took centuries to consolidate. Latin America required roughly 50 years to secure sustained institutional integration. East Asia achieved comparable consolidation in approximately 25 years. In the Gulf, a comparable scale of institutional ambition has unfolded within 15 years.

    Some regions are recalibrating long-standing infrastructures under financial and political pressure. Others are integrating into global circuits after decades of gradual recognition. And a few are implementing existing models at unprecedented speed.

    Cultural authority in the coming decade may depend less on inherited prestige than on the capacity to sustain institutions through volatility. If the 20th Century was defined by accumulation—collections, archives and reputations—the next phase will be defined by tempo and by who is able to sustain it.

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    The New Geography of the Art World in the Age of Acceleration

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    Paco Barragán

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  • 48 Hours of Art in Chicago: CXW, Museums and Monuments to Come

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    Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate, better known as the Bean. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    I was going to kick this off with a fun anecdote about my daughter walking into my office to ask whether I knew there was a guy trapped inside the Bean, followed by my inevitable dive into the Man in Bean movement (including Sarah Cascone’s wild dissection). Anish Kapoor’s Cloud Gate is the kind of artwork people love to hate while still lining up to slap their greasy palms on it to get the same warped selfie everyone takes. And while I usually enjoy a good dunk on that sort of thing, it feels a little tone-deaf given what’s happening in the Windy City right now—from ICE patrols to the arrival of National Guard troops.

    The idea that Trump could deploy those troops in Chicago—invoking the Insurrection Act in the process—feels dystopian and doesn’t track with my experience of the city at all. Does Chicago have crime? Yes, Chicago has crime. So does every city. More people, more problems. Is Chicago, as the president has claimed, the “world’s most dangerous city”? Please. Not even close. It’s just a city—and from everything I saw during a trip that took me from the Loop to Streeterville, from East Village to Washington Park and the Fulton Market District—it’s a pretty chill one. Sure, I only saw a sliver, but to echo the words of U.S. District Judge April Perry, I saw nothing resembling a “danger of rebellion.”

    What I do see while I’m here for Chicago Exhibition Weekend (CXW) is beautiful in the way most urban places are beautiful—full of hard edges paired with softness and united by the widely held conviction that art is the solution to a range of challenges. Chicago’s artists—and their champions, from patrons to gallerists to curators—are as open as they are unfiltered. When I ask Scott Speh, founder of Western Exhibitions, what makes the Chicago art scene different from, say, New York or L.A., he’s quick to tell me how much he hates that question, then launches into a perfectly clear-eyed answer: “I think everywhere, people want to put on good shows. It doesn’t matter what city they’re in, they want to put forward interesting artists.”

    Alexander Calder, Flying Dragon, 1975. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    That’s what he’s been doing for 21 years (“Chicago would be a far less interesting art city if Scott wasn’t doing what he was doing,” artist Stan Shellabarger told The Chicago Reader in 2024), and he’s in good company. Speh might resist boiling it all down, but if I had to try, I’d say Chicago’s is a scene grounded in and by the people who are in the thick of it. “In Chicago, there’s a really good ecosystem because it’s not too small and it’s not too big either,” Sibylle Friche, Document gallery partner, tells me. “You don’t get bored—there’s always enough going on.”

    Enough, and then some—as is the case with Chicago Exhibition Weekend, now in its third year. Around 50 galleries and creative spaces citywide mounted shows and everything from panel discussions and artist meet-and-greets to collector tours and an art-and-tennis mixer. The whole thing is the brainchild of Abby Pucker, Gertie founder and Pritzker family scion—yes, that Pritzker family. But despite her association with big bucks and big names (Illinois Governor JB Pritzker is a cousin), Pucker is—as I find out in conversation after conversation, including with the woman herself—simultaneously down-to-earth and committed to lifting others up.

    I’m here for CXW, of course, but also to figure out what makes Chicago’s art world tick. Pucker deserves serious credit for rallying next-gen patrons and collectors through Gertie’s EarlyWork program of curated cultural events. Still, she’s one voice in a glorious chorus of artists, curators and civic-minded supporters—all of whom, it seems, are ready to invite outsiders like me in.

    Day 0

    It’s just around lunchtime when I touch down at O’Hare, but I’m thrilled to find my room at Chicago Athletic Association already ready when I arrive after an uneventful ride on the Blue Line. I can see Cloud Gate from here, or at least glints of it between the leaves of Millennium Park’s many trees, which means I’m also near Jaume Plensa’s ever-smiling crowd-pleaser, Crown Fountain. It’s hours before I need to be anywhere, and my home base is just steps from the Art Institute of Chicago (the second-largest art museum in the United States, after New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art), which feels like the perfect way to start an unfamiliar city fling with art.

    The Stephen Alesch painting in my hotel room. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    In the elevator, someone cheerfully asks if I’m headed out to see the Bean. “Sure am,” I answer—and I guess I’m just that suggestible because suddenly I feel compelled to make that my first stop. Close up, it’s filthy, covered in smeary handprints and streaks, but from a distance, framed by the city skyline, it’s pure sculpture drama. I take selfies from afar but resist the urge to touch it since I left my sanitizer back in the room—rookie mistake.

    Marc Chagall’s America Windows at the Art Institute of Chicago. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    On a normal trip, I’d budget at least five hours for the Art Institute, but this isn’t a normal trip, so I decide to focus on the heavy hitters: Edward Hopper’s Nighthawks. Van Gogh’s The Bedroom. Seurat’s A Sunday on La Grande Jatte. Grant Wood’s American Gothic. My all-time favorite Cézanne, Basket of Apples. I’m waylaid early on by the Elizabeth Catlett show, “A Black Revolutionary Artist and All That It Implies,” a fantastic career survey on view through early next year and absolutely worth the flight alone. In Gallery 262, everyone is clustered around Nighthawks, which is probably among the least interesting paintings there—though it’s definitely bigger than you’d expect. Far more captivating are Peter Blume’s weirdly brilliant The Rock (commissioned for Fallingwater but rejected for being too big) and Kay Sage’s deliciously desolate In the Third Sleep. There’s even an early cubist-expressionist Pollock, which feels like spotting a celebrity before their glow-up.

    Kay Sage, In the Third Sleep, 1944. Oil on canvas. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    And so it goes. The Art Institute of Chicago is home to paintings we’ve all seen a hundred times on mugs, tote bags and in movies—you can absolutely have your Ferris Bueller moment in front of the Seurat—but it’s the lesser-known gems that really sparkle. There’s a stellar selection of Georgia O’Keeffe’s works (Ballet Skirt or Electric Light is a standout) and Alma ThomasStarry Night with the Astronauts. Other highlights: William Zorach’s Summer, Marsden Hartley’s Movement, Elizabeth Sparhawk-JonesShop Girls and Mary Cassatt’s The Child’s Bath.

    Elizabeth Catlett, Head of a Negro Woman, 1946. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    Time-bound as I am, I feel like I’m jogging through the galleries. (Fun fact: Large as the museum is, less than 20 percent of the collection is on display at any given time.) I pause for a late lunch at the café—great food—and sit in the garden for a charming little reset before diving back in. Monet’s stacks of wheat remind me what repetition can achieve. There are Van Goghs here you haven’t seen on a million mugs, but don’t skip the Pissarros. I breeze through the Greek, Etruscan, Roman and Egyptian galleries but somehow miss the entire Asian art collection. I cap off my visit at Marc Chagall’s America Windows and leave feeling artistically overfed yet hungry for more.

    Andi Crist’s Precautionary Measures. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    After a stop back at the hotel, where I freshen up and check out Andi Crist’s Precautionary Measures, a site-specific installation that transforms symbols of caution and containment into a new visual language (then installed at Chicago Athletic Association), I hop on the train toward 400 N. Peoria. It’s the hub of CXW and the site of “Over My Head: Encounters with Conceptual Art in a Flyover City, 1984–2015,” a special exhibition curated by Gareth Kaye and Iris Colburn and presented by Abby Pucker’s Gertie.

    The weather is perfection—so close to ideal it’s practically invisible. But I’m off to an inauspicious start. My GPS goes haywire, and I’m spinning around River North in a mild panic, trying to figure out where the hell I am. And once I do, I’m unfashionably early—as in, they’re-still-setting-up-the-bar early. But someone lets me in, and the bartenders take pity on me, which is how I score a private preview of the show. I spend an embarrassingly long time standing in the room where Jordan Wolfson’s hypnotic Perfect Lover (2007), one of my favorite works, is playing on a loop.

    An installation view of “Over My Head: Encounters with Conceptual Art in a Flyover City, 1984–2015
” at 400 N. Peoria. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    As the gallery fills, I’m still feeling untethered. I spot Tony Karman. I eavesdrop on conversations, playing a game of Artist, Collector or Scenester? I linger by Wendy Jacob’s Untitled (1988), watching it breathe, then lose myself in Rashid Johnson’s Remembering D.B. Cooper (2013), until Ellen Kaulig, chief of staff at the Chicago Reader, saves me from myself by introducing me to Pucker. In a relatively quiet spot under the stairs, she tells me how Chicago Exhibition Weekend evolved over three years and where the idea for “Over My Head” came from.

    “It’s a bit of a double entendre—being a flyover city, right? People don’t often attribute movements like conceptual art to Chicago, but it is an amazing nerve center of that,” she says, calling the planning phase a whirlwind. “We talked to these absolute icons. People like Karsten Lund, Helen Goldenberg, Laura Paulson, John Corbett and Jim Dempsey… just people who have been integral to this area for so many years.” Chicago’s art elite were, she said, excited to share, and the resulting show collected work from Molly Zuckerman-Hartung, Dara Birnbaum, Rosemarie Trockel, Martin Puryear, Tony Lewis and others.

    “They don’t think so highly of themselves that they’re detached from reality,” she adds. “They’re around. I think sometimes that might work to our detriment, because it’s hard to brand something as cool when it’s so inviting—but it’s fucking cool to be invited.”

    Rashid Johnson‍, Remembering D.B. Cooper, 2013. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    That word—invited—comes up again when I talk to Chanelle Lacy, Gertie’s director of art initiatives, about the crossover between CXW and EarlyWork: “We want to lower barriers to entry. We try to demystify things because once you actually get into it, it’s not that scary. The art world just looks a little intimidating from the outside. We want to expose people to the finer side of things and be a lifeline. And everything is very serious—it’s just about making it more approachable, so people feel invited into the experience.”

    The exhibition dinner is where I meet Friche, along with Carla Acevedo-Yates (if the name’s familiar, it’s because she’s on the documenta 16 curatorial team), several dealers and a cadre of arts-friendly businesspeople and politicians. I stay and schmooze for as long as I can before exhaustion sets in.

    Molly Zuckerman-Hartung‍, Notley, 2013. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    Day 1

    I’d planned to follow one of the curated routes that the CXW team had Chicago artists, gallerists and creatives put together, but last night Friche hand-drew me a one-of-a-kind mapped itinerary—and really, how could I possibly say no to that? But Chicago’s art museums don’t open until 10 a.m., and the galleries open even later, so I decide to wander toward Lake Michigan. I get sidetracked by the absolute unit of a fountain in the distance—it’s Clarence F. Buckingham Memorial Fountain—and I start heading that way, thinking it can’t be too far. And it’s not, technically, but its sheer scale plays tricks on your senses. I know I’m close when I pass Turtle Boy and Dove Girl and the North Rose Garden, which must be stunning at the height of summer, and then I keep going for a quick peek at Magdalena Abakanowicz’s leggy Agora.

    Clarence F. Buckingham Memorial Fountain. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    I haven’t even officially started my day, but I’ve already clocked more than a mile—according to Friche’s map, in the wrong direction. After an about-face, I get plenty of lake views on my three-mile walk to the MCA Chicago, which is showing “City In A Garden: Queer Art and Activism” and “Wafaa Bilal: Indulge Me,” along with “Collection in Conversation with Pablo Helguera” across all three floors of the museum’s stairwell galleries. Like the Art Institute, MCA Chicago is a feast, but a much more digestible one. You can see everything in a couple of hours, which is ideal because my weekend itinerary is threatening to become an endurance sport.

    Nick Cave’s Sound Suit (2008) in “City in a Garden: Queer Art and Activism in Chicago” at MCA Chicago. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    First stop: Patron Gallery for Bethany Collins’s “DUSK,” which is nuanced but underwhelming as presented—or maybe I’m just too overstimulated post-museum to process it properly. Next up: Western Exhibitions, Document, Volume Gallery and David Salkin Creative, which all share a floor at 1709 West Chicago Avenue. Friche is in, and she tells me the neighborhood is a hub for emerging contemporary art, but you’ll also find heavy-hitters like Mariane Ibrahim Gallery and Corbett vs. Dempsey. “It definitely concentrates a lot of the scene,” she says. “And it feels pretty supportive—we each have our own identity. I think it’s hard to find programs in Chicago that resemble each other. I’m not saying anything negative about New York, but sometimes you go to Chelsea and see the same kind of painting shows over and over. I feel like here, you don’t have that.”

    Journie Cirdain’s Chandelier Dewdrops (2025), part of “The Gloaming” at Western Exhibitions gallery. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    Unlike Scott Speh, she’s more than happy to talk about what makes Chicago’s art scene unique: “Because our overhead is manageable, it’s more accessible to open spaces and experiment. Eventually, you get a bit more constrained by the commercial aspects—if you want longevity, you do need to sell some art. That affects your choices. But there’s still a bit more breathing room here than in the coastal cities, given how unaffordable things have become in San Francisco and New York.”

    Kiah Celeste’s Four Shores (2025) at Document. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    I linger over Kiah Celeste and Gordon Hall’s work at Document and Journie Cirdain’s “The Gloaming” at Western Exhibitions before briefly popping into “Porfirio Gutiérrez: Modernism” at Volume Gallery. Then I’m back out on the streets, where I’m spoiled for choice but already flirting with art fatigue. Sadly, Monica Meloche gallery isn’t opening its Luke Agada and Braxton Garneau show until tomorrow, so I make my way to Mariane Ibrahim for “Yukimasa Ida: Flaming Memory.” It is, in a word, transcendent. I stand for a long time in front of each painting, hypnotized by the massive brushstrokes and thick layers of paint that blur into half-remembered faces—like fragments of a dream fading faster than I can hold on.

    I think about squeezing in a few more galleries, but once again, I’ve grossly underestimated Chicago’s distances—and I’m hitting the wall. In a way, it’s a happy accident: I return to my hotel to the news that the iconic Agnes Gund has passed away, and her obit is waiting in my production queue. I edit, publish and then dash out to gape at the Chicago Picasso before hopping on the train to yet another neighborhood: Washington Park.

    Darius Dennis, SEEN. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    I’m here to see a different side of the art scene and join the large crowd gathered at the Green Line Performing Arts Center for a tour of the imagined Washington Park Public Art Corridor. In several batches, a trolley ferries us to Amanda Williams Other Washingtons at 51st and S. King Drive, the future site of Breath, Form & Freedom, created by the Chicago Torture Justice Memorials Foundation to honor victims of police torture, and Arts + Public Life’s Arts Lawn for a preview of Yvette Mayorga’s City Lovers in Paradise. I learn more about Chicago’s recent history in a few hours than I could’ve gleaned from a week of reading—and not all of it’s pretty. Back at the arts center, there’s live music, dance and collaborative art-making with artist and teacher William Estrada, who’s brought his Mobile Street Art Cart Project to the Art Lawn.

    When I ask Estrada about the art scene, he’s frank. “There are a lot of spaces where not everyone is welcome, and that’s the worst part of it,” he says. “But the best part is that there’s a lot of art in Chicago, and you can see it across 77 neighborhoods. That’s the part I get really excited about—because you get to experience different art in different communities, and actually engage in conversations about what that art means and who made it with the folks who are being affected by it or get to experience it directly.”

    Jaume Plensa’s Crown Fountain. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    And that’s exactly why I’m here—not just for CXW (which is fantastic) or the city’s world-class museums (also fantastic) but to understand what makes Chicago’s art pulse so distinct. Back in the Loop, I stroll around Millennium Park waiting for a text from Wilma’s letting me know my barbecue is ready. The evening is gorgeous—warm, breezy and humming with life. Kids are splashing in Crown Fountain, musicians are playing on the sidewalks, and the whole scene radiates that beautiful combination of grit and charm. I can see why so many people love it here.

    Day 2

    If you have limited time in Chicago—say, you’re breezing in for a weekend of art and, like me, you’ll be operating without wheels—you need to think hyper-locally. This is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own cultural flavor and art offerings. Hyde Park has the Smart Museum of Art, the Renaissance Society, Hyde Park Art Center and the Logan Center Gallery (plus the Griffin Museum of Science and Industry, the Institute for the Study of Ancient Cultures Museum and the DuSable Black History Museum in nearby Washington Park). Lincoln Park has the DePaul Art Museum and Wrightwood 659. Ukrainian Village and West Town boast a cluster of commercial galleries, along with the Ukrainian Institute of Modern Art and Intuit Art Museum.

    The Chicago Picasso. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    If there are specific museums or galleries you’re determined to hit, book a spot somewhere central. Because if you’re coming from New York and assuming you’ll just zip between neighborhoods like you’re downtown, you’re in for a rude awakening. Chicago is about ten times the size of Manhattan in terms of land area—which is why, during my final hours in town, I’m speedwalking the South Loop’s Wabash Arts Corridor. (Sidenote: I consider myself a hotel gym connoisseur, but I racked up so many steps during my two-day stay that I never once made it to the Chicago Athletic Association gym. No regrets.)

    Crisscrossing streets so eerily empty of cars they feel post-apocalyptic, I admire murals not just on walls but also on doors, alleyways and parking lots. Initiated by Columbia College Chicago in 2013, the Wabash Arts Corridor project has brought more than 100 murals to the neighborhood, including We Own the Future by Shepard Fairey. I’m especially charmed by Marina Zumi’s Impossible Meeting and the candy-colored Moose Bubblegum Bubble by Jacob Watts, and wish I had more time to wander—but I need to get back to Chicago Athletic Association for my final art experience of the trip: the “City as Platform” breakfast conversation.

    Jacob Watts’s Bubblegum Moose Bubble, one of the Wabash Art Corridor Murals. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    On my straight-line power walk back to my hotel, I marvel at Chicago’s abundant parking—a downright shocking sight for a New Yorker—and pause to peer into the windows of Elephant Room Gallery, one of many I didn’t make it to, which is showing Darin Latimer’s solo exhibition “Rhinoceros.” Other things I don’t do in Chicago: participate in the “Throw your phone into a body of water!” activation by Weatherproof, which invited art lovers to toss their phones into any handy body of water on September 19, 20 or 21 whenever the numbers on a clock added up to four in military time (e.g. 0400 or 2200)—though I was sorely tempted. Attend the Improvised Sound Making at The Franklin. See “Alex Katz: White Lotus” at GRAY. Visit the National Museum of Mexican Art and the National Veterans Art Museum.

    Cheri Lee Charlton’s Curious Bunny. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    Before the talk—an engaging conversation between Kate Sierzputowski (artistic director of EXPO CHICAGO), Nora Daley (co-chair of the Chicago Architecture Biennial), Christine Messineo (Frieze director of Americas) and, no surprise, Abby Pucker, who greets me warmly, by name, when I check in. As Sierzputowski notes when the convo kicks off, the panel “reflects the best of what Chicago has to offer: collaboration across sectors, deep civic commitment and a shared mission to place the city’s cultural work on a global stage.” Daley calls CXW a “cultural palooza” and declares that “Chicago shows up,” which is something I see in action, over and over, during my short time here. “I think it’s who’s in the room at these dinners is what makes this work,” Sierzputowski agrees—whether that’s gallerists, artists, curators, museum directors and civic leaders or, as Pucker reminds us, engaged corporate entities committed to supporting the arts in Chicago.

    “City as Platform,” one of the Chicago Exhibition Weekend talks. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    “The creative economy contributes massively to city revenues, yet the people in power often don’t see or understand it,” she says. “We’ve seen perception hurt Chicago. Every city has problems—but if the media only amplifies those, we lose people. Art and culture can bring them back.”

    Ironically, the end of the conversation marks the close of my 48 hours of art in Chicago. As I ride the Blue Line back to O’Hare, mulling over everything I’ve experienced, it hits me: as thrilling as it is to be here during Chicago Exhibition Weekend, there’s just too much on the CXW agenda and not enough time to do it. What I experienced in two days was barely a teaser of what this city has to offer. So with that in mind, Abby, if you’re reading this, I have three words for you: Chicago Exhibition Week. Think about it.

    Strreet art by Doc Mosher. Photo: Christa Terry for Observer

    48 Hours of Art in Chicago: CXW, Museums and Monuments to Come

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    Christa Terry

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