Every so often, a new place in Charlotte opens and immediately it becomes the place. You know, the one everyone’s posting about and recommending, with lines are so long you’re contemplating why you’re even there.
At the end of the day, you’re asking yourself, “Is it really worth the hype?” That’s what inspired this series, Worth The Hype, where I finally try spots I’ve been putting off and give an honest verdict.
Disclaimer: I am not the kind of person who goes to a restaurant the week it opens or even the month it opens. If a place is getting nonstop buzz, I usually do the opposite to get around long wait times, kinks and the adjustment period.
ESO Artisanal Pasta opened in Optimist Hall last summer, and for weeks — months, even — it was talked about and highly anticipated. And, yes, everything did look amazing. My mouth was watering watching videos on Instagram reels and TikTok. ESO Artisanal Pasta was also a finalist on Season 15 of Food Network’s “The Great Food Truck Race” before establishing a space in Optimist Hall.
Two seasons later, I finally made my way there on a Tuesday afternoon for lunch, assuming the initial rush had died down and everything would be available. I was wrong.
Multiple dishes were out of stock, especially the one I truly wanted, the Tagliatelle Ragu and Italian Rice Balls. But that was fine, because that just meant I had to come back.
When it came time to order, I went with a classic: the penne alla vodka. The first thing I noticed were the noodles — thick, oversized and clearly made in-house. They were soft without being doughy and almost pillow-like, the kind of pasta that feels substantial in every bite. Yet if pasta could melt in your mouth, this would’ve come close.
The dish arrived steaming — and I don’t mean for show. Nearly 20 minutes later, every bite was still hot. The first few bites were heavenly: the sauce slightly acidic, as you’d expect from a red sauce, but balanced out with a creamy richness that kept it from feeling sharp. The pasta itself was dense and filling; even ordering a small, I wasn’t expecting a portion this generous.
That said, a few bites in, I found myself needing a break. The flavors started to feel familiar — almost nostalgic — in a way that reminded me of something from childhood, like Campbell’s SpaghettiOs. Not bad, just unexpectedly reminiscent. I packed it up with the intention of coming back to it later.
ESO Artisanal Pasta’s penne alla vodka. Tamia Boyd CharlotteFive
After work, I decided to swing back by ESO to see if anything new had come back in stock, and luckily for me, the Italian Rice Balls were available. I ordered them with a side of pomodoro, and within minutes I was back at a table. Opening the box immediately fogged up my glasses from the heat.
These weren’t small bites. The rice balls were hefty, golden and clearly fresh, and at $14, felt like a solid value considering both the size and portion. I took my first bite without the sauce: crunchy on the outside, warm and creamy on the inside, with a cheese pull so dramatic it practically demanded a slow-motion video. The contrast alone — crisp exterior, soft rice, melted cheese — was enough to win me over.
But the pomodoro is what really sealed the deal. I topped the pomodoro with the rice ball, and it completely changed the bite. The acidity cut through the richness in the best way, balancing out the cheese and turning something indulgent into something I couldn’t stop eating.
Rice balls from ESO Artisanal Pasta at Optimist Hall. Tamia Boyd CharlotteFive
Overall, this place is great and filling, especially for a food stall. If it were up to me, I’d bring a bunch of friends and buy each of the pastas to do a smorgasbord so I could try a little of everything.
If I had to order again — and I will — the rice balls would be non-negotiable. They weren’t just my favorite thing I tried at ESO; they were the dish that made me understand the hype.
So, is ESO Artisanal Pasta worth the hype? Yes — order strategically, and please don’t skip the rice balls.
Chefs AJ Sankofa and Kristina Gambarian appeared on “The Great Food Truck Race” with their business, ESO Artisanal Pasta. ESO Artisanal Pasta
A well-known spot for pan con tomate, croquetas and patatas bravas in Charlotte is closing up shop this weekend.
Marina’s Tapas, inspired by the Spanish great-grandmother of Michelin-recommended Customshop’s chef and co-owner Andres Kaifer, will be closing at Optimist Hall on Saturday, Nov. 15.
“Our time at Optimist Hall has been nothing but fun, flavorful and full of energy. We’ve loved sharing our Spanish heritage with you and it’s been a pleasure to feed you!,” Kaifer wrote on the restaurant’s Instagram.
Chef Andres Kaifer’s great-grandmother Marina ran the kitchen at an almost 100-year-old tapería in Asturias, Spain. The tapas stall at Optimist Hall was an ode to her. Courtesy of Andres Kaifer
“While it’s been a pleasure, we’re moving on from hall and our last day of service will be Saturday, November 15th. We invite you to stop by, say hi, and share a few tapas over the next few days!,” he continued.
The post brought an outpouring from customers, including a few chefs and well-known foodies.
“Now where am I gonna go get my midweek bocadillo, calamari and sangria fix?,” wrote chef Mark Jacksina of Michelin-recommended Italian restaurant Little Mamas. “Thanks for tapas, and can’t wait to see what’s next!”
The tortilla Española at Marina’s Tapas. Ryan Allen
Food influencer Asha Ellison wrote, “One last order of gambas for the road.”
“Onwards and upwards! Can’t wait to see the future for ya’ll!,” Evan Diamond of CLT Foodies wrote.
Indeed, fans of the team behind Customshop have some things to look forward to. The Instagram post hints at something new taking the place of Marina’s Tapas that the team will have a hand in.
Andres Kaifer and Alex Bridges have been working in the restaurant industry together since 2019. Courtesy of Customshop
“I’ve enjoyed cooking some of my favorite recipes at this stall and while Marina’s is going away, there’s something hot and tasty coming in our place that our team will still be involved with. We’re excited to share more on that soon,” the message said.
Kaifer and co-owner Alex Bridges are also working on opening Emmy Lou’s, a Dilworth wine bar named for Bridges’ wife that will serve shareable small plates.
Bocadillos are traditional Spanish baguette sandwiches with meat and cheese. Marina’s Tapas, which is closing this weekend, offers three versions. Ryan Allen
Heidi Finley is a writer and editor for CharlotteFive and the Charlotte Observer. Outside of work, you will most likely find her in the suburbs driving kids around, volunteering and indulging in foodie pursuits.
When Optimist Hall first debuted, only six tenants were fully operational on opening day. Now, this Charlotte food hall rings in at more than two dozen tenants, serving everything from bao buns to craft cocktails and gooey grilled cheese.
And while the food draws visitors, the rich history of the building adds to the experience. The 147,000 square-foot space — a turn-of-the-century textile mill involved in the manufacturing of the first Spanx shapewear — was originally owned by Highland Park Manufacturing Company. When Paces Properties and White Point Partners purchased the building, they retained many of the property’s original, 120-year-old elements. In addition to the hardwood floors, the 14-foot ceilings and industrial bricks and beams were preserved.
Now, with a few new changes in the works, Optimist Hall is well on its way to carving a new space in the building’s history. It’s a space where ethnic dishes and comfort food favorites live side-by-side to bring together the community.
By car: Uber and Lyft are highly recommended, but if you’re driving, look for designated signs that point to parking. Charges for parking more than 90 minutes are in effect.
By light rail: Take the rail and exit Parkwood Street Station, then turn right. It’s a .3 mile walk from the station.
By bike: From uptown, take the Rail Trail pathway past the 9th Street Station. After you bike under 277, turn right onto 12th Street alongside Alpha Mill Apartments and then left on Brevard Street. You’ll follow the bike path the whole way. Head straight to Optimist Hall. Bike racks are available on site.
If you’ve been to the Ponce City Market in Atlanta, you’ve likely strolled by this stationery and gift retailer inspired by the sport of archery. Look for greeting cards, desk supplies, pencils, art prints, gift wraps and books.
Find greeting cards, desk supplies and more at Archer Paper Goods. Andy McMillan
Having found success in Tampa’s Armature Works food hall (a similar restored, mixed-use space), this Italian concept serves hot-from-the-wood-fired-oven pizza made with fine Italian flour and hand-prepared dough.
Restaurateur Bruce Moffet and chef Larry Schreiber teamed up to offer Asian street food recipes, featuring everything from steamed buns and ramen bowls to sweet macaroons.
Order a steamed bao or ramen bowl from Bao + Broth. Alex Cason Photography CharlotteFive
Known for its classic drinks, this award-winning, Chicago-based cocktail bar blends vintage spirits with a culinary approach to flavor to create a rich sip for food-hall-goers.
Dedicated to preserving cooking traditions and authentic cuisine, Botiwalla serves authentic Indian street food like kebabs and rolls wrapped in hot, buttered naan. There are even options exclusive to the Optimist Hall location, including butter chicken and saag paneer.
Botiwalla’s Desi Salad is shredded white and red cabbage, carrots, scallions and roasted cashews topped with toasted sesame seeds, cilantro, and crunchy chickpea noddles. It’s served with a cumin-lime vinaigrette. This one is topped with Paneer cheese. Melissa Oyler CharlotteFive
This Charleston-based fried chicken joint opened its fifth location in Optimist Hall, where you’ll find everything from The Boxcar (pimento cheese, peach slaw, house pickles, spicy mayo) to the Chicken “Not So Waffle” (bacon jam, maple syrup, pimento cheese, tomato). Vegetarian options are available, as well.
Boxcar Betty’s is dedicated to serving a high-end fried chicken sandwich. Courtesy of Boxcar Betty’s
If you love old-fashioned candy, look no further. Collier Candy Company offers nostalgic treats including Chick-O-Sticks, Charleston Chews and Bubble Gum Cigars. Of course, you can also find classic favorites such as M&Ms and gummy bears. But don’t wait too long: The candy shop will be closing in late 2024 to make way for ESO Artisanal Pasta.
Feel the joy of stocking up on classic and old-fashioned candy at Collier Candy Company. Courtesy of Collier Candy Company
A new Spanish tapas concept from the team at Customshop is slated to open this summer at Optimist Hall. Chef Andres Kaifer will bring his family recipes to the table at the food hall, where the still-unnamed spot between Boxcar Betty’s and Village Juice will be putting out sandwiches, shareables, patatas bravas and Kaifer’s famous flan.
Serving traditional Sichuan family recipes, this popular food truck’s owner serves authentic, locally-sourced dumplings, noodles and Sichuan street food. A South End location opened last year, too.
The Dumpling Lady first garnered success with a food truck, and now serves authentic Sichuan street food at Optimist Hall. Alex Cason Photography CharlotteFive
This Greenville-based, all-day Mexican cantina offers everything you need for a fun night out, including authentic cuisine, craft cocktails and upscale gaming and entertainment. Look for weekly specials, including half-price margaritas on Mondays, $5 nachos on Thursdays and tableside tequila service on Fridays and Saturdays.
It’s always a party at el Thrifty Social Club. Alex Cason Photography CharlotteFive
Enat Ethiopian opened at The Plaza in Charlotte’s Shannon Park neighborhood and an Optimist Hall location followed, specializing in traditional East African food with a modern flair such as the stuffed pastry Sambusa, the stir-fried meat and veggies Tibs and the spongy bread Injera. There also are vegan and vegetarian options, sandwiches and family platters.
Enat restaurant in Charlotte puts traditional Ethiopian tibs, a rich meat-and-gravy dish, on an American hoagie roll. Enat Ethiopian
Freshly made pasta, arancini and polpette will be available at Optimist Hall later this year, when ESO Artisinal Pasta moves into the Collier Candy Company space next to Schreiber’s on Rye and Zukku Sushi. If the name sounds familiar, you may recognize it from Food Network. The pasta shop’s owners — now-married chefs AJ Sankofa and Kristina Gambarian once took their Italian cuisine on the road with “The Great Food Truck Race.”
Expect freshly made pasta and sauces from ESO Artisanal Pasta. ESO Artisanal Pasta
Dedicated to individuals “committed to carbs,” Felix Handmade Empanadas became a food truck staple in Charlotte by serving unique, homemade empanadas (think: pepperoni pizza, shepherd’s pie). Now, you can enjoy these same flavors at the Optimist Hall location, crafted with Peruvian, American and British influences.
Craving a savory or sweet empanada? Felix Empanadas has plenty of options. Alex Cason Photography CharlotteFive
It wouldn’t be a Charlotte party without a brewery in the mix, and North Carolina-based Fonta Flora Brewery serves brews inspired by English and Belgian traditions.
Papi Queso and The Plaid Penguin teamed up to serve old-fashioned hamburgers from a ‘50s-style diner stall. After much research and testing, this spot is said to serve the “perfect” hamburger with a mission to “just be good.”
Order a “perfect” burger at this mashup between The Plaid Penguin and Papi Queso. LunahZon Photography
The result of three friends’ passion project to “Be Sweet,” Honeysuckle Gelato serves scoops, pints, sandwiches and shakes with Southern-inspired flavors like Brown Butter Crunch, Lemon Raspberry Crumble and Bourbon Pecan Praline.
Honeysuckle Gelato offers unique, refreshing flavors and baked goods. Andy McMillan
Atlanta-based stationery and gift shop The Merchant offers candles, coffee table books, tea towels and other items you can mix and match to create the perfect gift or make your own home a little more cozy.
You can build your own twist on the “mezze” experience at Mezeh. All food is made in-house, from scratch and can be crafted into a bowl, flatbread wrap or pita pocket.
Mezeh Mediterranean Grill’s Charlotte location is now open at Optimist Hall. Courtesy of mezeh mediterranean grill
The Charlotte barbecue restaurant’s stall is cranking out smoked meats. You’ll find Chopped Cheshire Pork, Creekstone Farms Beef Brisket and Turkey and sides such as Pan-Fried Green Beans, Slaw (Eastern and Western), Zack’s Collards and Mac & Cheese.
The wildly popular, cheese-inspired food truck and “streatery” now serves fan favorites from its brick-and-mortar location, including the gooey grilled cheese sandwiches as seen on “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.”
Papi Queso serves the ultimate gooey comfort food at its brick-and-mortar location. Courtesy of The Plaid Penguin
Shop succulents, grab a house plant to brighten your desk or take a class at Paradiso Plant Shop. The store also sells pots, cards and everything else you need to take a plant home or give one as as a gift.
You may recognize this all-natural pet food brand from local pop-ups. It offers retail options to purchase slow-cooked, small-batch food for your furry friend.
Bring home something from Pet Wants for your furry friend. Andy McMillan
New York-style deli Schreiber’s on Rye took over the space that was formerly home to Xiao Bao, between Boxcar Betty’s and Collier Candy Company. You can expect to find Jewish and Italian influences in its sandwiches, hot dogs and matzo ball soup.
Schreiber’s on Rye serves deli-style sandwiches, hot dogs and matzo ball soup. NiceDay Creative
This “2.0 concept” from Suárez Bakery offers popular favorites such as pastries and doughnuts supplemented by a Cuban menu. Savory items include sandwiches, snacks and bowls.
Based out of Winston-Salem, this family-owned concept couples the idea of healthy eating with a bounty of flavor and color. Look for cold-pressed juices, nut milks, smoothie bowls and dishes crafted with organic ingredients.
Village Juice Co. fuels Charlotte with healthy bowls, salads and cold-pressed juice. Courtesy of Village Juice Co.
Enjoy hamburgers, butter chicken, gelato, craft cocktails and more at Optimist Hall. Alex Cason Photography CharlotteFIve
This story was originally published April 1, 2024, 6:00 AM.
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Jessica is a writer fueled by coffee, cookies and long walks in the Magic Kingdom. She’s often found exploring the culinary scene (mostly pasta) and traveling. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @jessicaswannie.
Heidi Finley is a writer and editor for CharlotteFive and the Charlotte Observer. Outside of work, you will most likely find her in the suburbs driving kids around, volunteering and indulging in foodie pursuits. Support my work with a digital subscription
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