Just last year, Hedi Slimanemade headlines for eschewing skinny jeans — a longtime signature of his design aesthetic — for baggy ones on the Celine Spring 2022 men’s runway. Well, that didn’t last long.
Slimane seems to have fully regressed back to an aesthetic he helped popularize during the Dior Homme stint (2001 to 2007) that made him a fashion star. And after experiencing the blowout Celine Winter 2023 women’s show at The Wiltern in Los Angeles Thursday night, I feel like I’m regressing, too.
The Y2K resurgence has been going strong for a while now, so in a way we all knew where fashion’s nostalgia train was heading next. We saw the signs. But something about seeing all of those circa-2006 hipster trends parade down a runway — black skinny jeans, ultra-thin scarves, band jackets, low-slung belts over dresses and tunics, moto boots, fedora hats over unbrushed hair, large belted handbags carried exclusively in the crooks of models’ arms — was almost too much to handle.
Scroll to Continue
It didn’t help that, in true Slimane fashion, seemingly countless iterations of the same outfit walked the runway, and the soundtrack was just “Hello Operator” by The White Stripes, playing over and over for the entire show. Celine has always been one of fashion’s quieter brands, but there was nothing subtle about the way Slimane chose to revive this aesthetic.
Then there was the name of the collection: Age of Indieness.
Perhaps Slimane has been counting down the days until the trend cycle would come back around and he could once again start dressing up his exceedingly young, skinny models (yeah, that still hasn’t changed) like Kate Moss and Pete Doherty at Glastonbury, but some of us may not be ready to go back there. For me, these outfits literally bring back memories of college roommates stealing my clothes, my hair smelling like cigarettes, overdrawn bank accounts, painful insecurity, an unhealthy obsession with thinness and trying way too hard to be cool.
But maybe today’s youth — like the after-party guests who rushed the runway en masse to mosh while The Strokes played their aughties hits, and blasted analog cigarettes outside in between sets (Interpol and Iggy Pop also performed) — are yearning for an indie sleaze era of their own. I guess it wasn’t all bad the first time around, even without a budget for Celine.
Photo: Kris Connor/Getty Images for NYX Professional Makeup
These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Thursday.
Thirteen Lune to open first retail store Thirteen Lune, the beauty e-commerce, site is set to open its first physical retail location in Los Angeles, Calif. in early 2023. Per a statement from the brand, the store will “serve as a hub for discovering BIPOC and ally-founded beauty brands in real life.” {Fashionista inbox}
Beauty incubator-backed brands are pushing back For Business of Fashion, Rachel Strugatz writes about the evolving issue with beauty incubators like Morphe and Maesa. A beauty incubator is a “centralized entity that exists to bring new brands to market,” per Strugatz, but some of those brand founders are growing dissatisfied. The founders of Playa and Kristin Ess Hair, for instance, are suing the beauty incubators that they are owned by for not supporting them fully, making business decisions without consulting the brand owners and more. {Business of Fashion}
Why Christian Dior’s couture is canon to the art form For Town and Country, Bridget Foley explores the history of Christian Dior designs and explains why the French house, specifically, is canon to the history of haute couture. Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of women’s at the label, says, “We are not to forget that couture was born in France […] And immediately it became a part of their nationality, their culture.” {Town and Country}
Looking to break into the fashion industry or make moves from your current role? Fashionista posts job listings daily across every field, from PR to design and from internships to managers.
Interested in posting a job listing with us? Packages start at $100, and you can find more info here or email Winnie at winnie@breakingmedia.com to get started. We look forward to working together.
Photos: Pixabay, Jason Merritt/Getty Images/Collage by Brooke Frischer
There are perfectly good celebrity style moments, and then there are the looks that really stick with you, the ones you try desperately to recreate at home. In ‘Great Outfits in Fashion History,’ Fashionista editors are revisiting their all-time favorite lewks.
History is divided between two timelines: before Harry Styles’s Gucci contract and after Harry Styles’s Gucci contract.
The year is 2015. Zayn Malik just left One Direction and broke my 14-year-old heart into a million little pieces. But one strategic, life-altering fashion moment restored my faith and hope in the future: Harry Styles’s black and white floral Gucci suit on the American Music Awards red carpet.
Not only did this awaken the fashion lover in me, it changed the world, arguably.
In contrast with his fellow band members’ traditional black and grey suits and ties, Styles stuck out like a sore thumb in the now-infamous black and white set, featuring a flared silhouette. And though some may say it wasn’t that wild of a fashion choice, the Harry Lambert-styled look did draw some criticism for its pattern and even sparked memes shared by fellow carpet attendee Justin Bieber. Basically, this suit’s impact on a generation of young people — not to mention the music and fashion scenes — is undeniable.
Photo: Jason Merritt/Getty Images
Scroll to Continue
There’s no question that when former Creative Director Alessandro Michele first named Styles as one of his muses at Gucci, it altered the trajectory of pop culture for years to come. Nearly a decade later, Styles continues to basically exclusively wear Michele’s Gucci after forging a close friendship with the designer.
In light of Michele’s departure from Gucci, Harry Lambert posted a photo tribute to the suit that in many ways helped spearhead Styles’ fashion-icon status.
What comes next for Michele is still unknown, but whatever it may be, there’s no doubt in my mind Harry will be following closely behind him.
If you’re also still thinking about Styles’ vintage-inspired floral pattern seven years later and want to give statement botanics a try for yourself, take a look at the gallery below.
P.S. I miss you, One Direction.
Botter Turtleneck Top Beige With Black Flowers, €285, available here (sizes XS-XL)
Connor McKnight Rorschach Floral Workwear Jacket, $1,050, available here (sizes XS-XXL)
Kimberly Goldson Ebs Printed Double-Breasted Blazer, $498, available here (sizes 0-12)
Fleur Du Mal Enchanted Garden Cutout Pant, $395, available here (sizes XS-L)
Farm Rio Flower Scarves Lenzing™ Ecovero™ Viscose Shirt, $175, available here (sizes XS-XL)
Alice + Olivia Latoya Blazer Minidress, $550, available here (sizes 0-14)
Please note: Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site. In no way do either affect our editorial decision-making.
In the past decade, Korea witnessed a boom, both economically and culturally, thanks to the “Hallyu wave,” which consists of everything from the estimated $13 billion K-beauty market, the appeal of K-pop idols and global attention to the nation’s film industry. Fashion’s role in this, though, has been a slower burn.
While you’ll most likely recognize a few brands from popular dramas, your favorite Korean celebrities or Seoul Fashion Week street style, many of Korea’s top designers are looking to cement themselves in the global market. On the cusp of international recognition, they’re pushing to advance K-fashion beyond the guise of the pop-culture craze.
According to Kaimin — the designer behind the brand of the same name, which has been worn by the likes of Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Björk — the growing popularity of the Korean music industry has been integral not just to bringing attention to the country’s fashion scene, but also to inspiring creatives on the ground.
“Musicians and other trendsetters have been dictating what’s fashionable and driving change from the top down and, while that may seem like a recipe for convergence, I think it has actually spread self-confidence and this broad expression of individuality that you see among the younger generation today, which is fabulous,” says Kaimin.
But other designers are looking to go beyond that pop-culture mold. “Until now, Korea has been sticking to the ‘existing fashion powerhouse,’ but I think it would be better to approach it in the way that Korean designers exceed even more,” The Studio K’s Hye-Jin Hong tells Fashionista. “Looking at successful cases such as ‘Squid Games’ and BTS, I think brands should strive to [overcome this method] and cement our identities into the world.”
Ahead, meet seven rising brands that are doing just that.
Blossom
Hea-Won Park had an affinity for clothes from a young age, which grew into an admiration for design, colors and textures that eventually lead her to found Blossom in 2016.
“I made [Blossom] for myself, but I also wanted to show it to others,” she says. “There are real main characters who sharpen and polish their own weapons — I wanted to be their supporter.”
The Seoul-based womenswear label makes ready-to-wear staples that are irresistible, sleek and even daring: oversized blazers and matching voluminous trousers, smart knitwear, boxy T-shirts, and flow-y silk blouses.
“I tend to pay a lot of attention to the quality [of our clothes] so that people can wear them for a long time,” Park says. “The fabric and color are carefully determined, and the quality is always discussed with the companies we work with, that have been in the industry for a long time. The design also is prioritized to be timeless rather than following a certain trend.”
Blossom’s been touched by the Hallyu Wave: It’s been featured on popular Korean shows like “Extraordinary Attorney Woo” and worn by celebs like singer Krystal Jung. Park argues that a healthy consumption of Korean culture — one filled with positive energy — will be vital to the industry’s success.
“Blossom gets a lot of compliments from those markets, and sometimes those shops buy our products,” she says. “The number of orders from individual customers has also increased a lot, too. I’m always thankful for that love.”
Through its pieces that can be worn by anyone at any time, Park ultimately wants to bond with the customer through Blossom.
“In a way, my clothes are my alter ego, and the people who wear them become friends with me,” she says.
Clove
Before becoming the CEO and director of Clove, Ju-Hyun Juen worked on the promotional team of a fashion brand for eight years. She’d think about changing jobs, but it wasn’t until she started learning how to play golf and tennis that the idea for her clothing brand came to be.
While searching for the right uniform — before people even coined the words golfcore and tenniscore — Juen had a difficult time finding pieces that fit her needs, budget and style.
“There were only expensive and ultra-fancy brands at the time,” she says. “The collections often had colorful details that I personally believed weren’t as versatile to wear in my daily life… I started with some core items according to my needs.”
That exercise birthed the recipe for what became Clove’s signature sporty look: chunky cable knits, cozy fleece pullovers, loose-fitted bottoms, embroidered fitted caps. It’s meant to fit into your wardrobe, whether you’re athletic or not.
“The reason why I chose our Instagram name as a ‘Clove Club’ and not just the brand name is that I wanted to create an online space where people can just enjoy this sort of lifestyle through our clothes,” she says.
Juen is confident that Korean fashion brands will continue to become more recognized in the future. But for now, she’s happy where things are headed.
“[The industry] is changing a lot to the point that when I meet people on work trips abroad, they know how to say ‘hello’ in Korean because they like K-Pop singers,” she syas. “I think [the Hallyu wave] helps to promote Korean brands in other countries, and I’m proud to see many of them doing well overseas. It makes me want to keep up with them.”
Eenk
Photo: Imaxtree
Hye-Mee Lee loves word play: Eenk, the name of her brand, plays on the word “ink” in English, and was inspired by watching her father work in the printing press.
In the age of fast fashion and endless trend cycles, Eenk aims to bring refreshing pieces that customers can always have in their personal archives — anything from fuzzy colorful knits to vintage-inspired phone accessories. Lee’s love of language trickles into her designs, too: Eenk recently launched “The Letter Project,” which is series of styles around keywords designated for each letter of the alphabet, from A to Z. The brand has unveiled pieces for letters like B (for Beanie), C (for Clutch/Cap) and D (for Darling) – and so on. Once it hits Z, it’ll circle back to the very start to present a total collection titled A for All, A for Archive.
Scroll to Continue
Like many during the pandemic, Lee was scared and at times felt that fashion was useless in the face of disaster. She wanted to create something hopeful through Eenk — and so, “S for Somewhere” was born.
“Since we couldn’t travel during that time, I remember I wanted to create looks that people would want to wear to go out or travel in,” Lee says. “We touched on the theme that satisfies that fantasy.” It was the brand’s best-selling collection yet.
Seoul’s fashion industry — and the Asian clothing market in general — is growing rapidly, and Lee’s not afraid of that expansion. If not anything, she wants more of it.
“I really hope that K-fashion brands will become more popular in the global market because I don’t see much of them right now in the ‘world stage,’” she says. “I’m looking forward to this growth and the time for it to happen is right now, in this moment.”
Expired Girl
Grounding its roots in Seoul, Expired Girl is a ready-to-wear brand inspired by memories from when designer Seohyun Lee was a teenager during the early 2000s.
“I wanted to mix the pop culture I’ve experienced during my school years and my interest in a variety of subcultures, and create a new mood,” Lee tells Fashionista. “The 2000s play a key role when planning for each season.”
Those nostalgic references translate to the silhouettes: Knit boleros, halter tops and pleated mini skirts are staples in the EP catalog. You’ll find a few punk-inspired tees in the mix, too. Its latest collection, “School Girl Goes Punk,” drew from the era’s rock culture, specifically, and utilized leftover fabric from the previous season to create pieces Lee thought a teenager obsessed with punk would wear.
Korea’s music landscape plays a huge role in the trend forecast, says Lee. “We wanted to give off a different mood from the existing K-fashion or the variety of styles of K-pop stars. Because Korean fashion trends are more conservative than in the west, some could think our clothes are more revealing than the existing trends,” she explains. “But with celebrities like Blackpink’s Jennie, Red Velvet’s Joy, and IU wearing our clothes, we were able to see the start of the Y2K fashion trends here in Korea.”
Kaimin
Photo: Tommaso Boddi/Getty Images for Warner Music
By Kaimin‘s own telling, the story of her namesake brand is a bit funny.
The Korean-Japanese designer created her very first capsule as an experiment, as part of a multi-sensory art project called Zero Zero Vol. 02, which she worked on alongside Nicola Formichetti, Miles Aldridge and Daniel Arsham’s Snarkitecture. Then, Beyoncé ended up wearing some of the pieces in her music video for “Grown Woman.” That gave her the confidence to create a full collection.
“Since then, I’ve been fortunate to work closely with many of my idols,” she says, listing off a few: Björk for her tour and an Art Basel Miami performance, Lady Gaga for various concerts and music videos, Nicki Minaj, Blackpink.
Kaimin’s design is rooted in a few core principles: innovation and technology; diversity and inclusivity; unrestricted creative community and cross-functional collaborations that reach far beyond fashion. Currently, she’s interested in the intersection of reality, VR/AR, digital art, 3-D printing and more.
“Fashion is directly influenced by the culture it originates in, and I love that every place on our planet has its own unique style,” she says. “I don’t really think about changing the Korean or any other fashion landscape.” What’s more important, she argues, is to simply share her creations with the world: “There’s plenty of room for all of us, and I love joining forces with local trendsetters to create something new and fun together!”
Kimhekim
Photo: Imaxtree
After working at Paris’ Studio Berçot and honing his skills at Balenciaga, Kim In-Te Kimhekim birthed his namesake brand, which is based in Seoul, in 2014.
Kimhekim draws inspiration from traditional Korean costumes (think Hanbok-style shapes), as well as Renaissance art motifs. While you can find wardrobe staples like turtlenecks, dress-shirts and trench coats, the brand is also rooted in sculpture and volume: oversized collars, larger-than-life ribbon bows, fluffy gowns — everyday items elevated through craftsmanship and surprising materials (like fake hair for Fall 2022 and upcycled denim for Spring 2023).
Over the years, Kim’s designs have been worn by the likes of Blackpink’s Rosé, Ho-Yeon Jung, Gigi Hadid and other renowned celebs. More recently, it’s landed on the new class of rising starlets — specifically NewJeans.
“I love their energy and their potential,” he says, noting that after the girl group wore Kimhekim pieces in a photo shoot, “we got a lot of attention from their fans. I’m looking forward to seeing how K-Pop continues to affect the fashion industry.”
The Studio K
Photo: Imaxtree
Hye-Jin Hong didn’t always plan on starting a fashion brand. In fact, when she was young, her dream was to be a scientist.
“Even while attending art school, I always thought that science and design are basically similar,” the RISD alum says. “It’s all about making concrete ideas — verifying, modifying, learning, feeling and producing results in the process. I wanted to create a fashion brand that also thinks like a scientist.”
Ever since her first collection for The Studio K in 2009, she’s worked towards achieving a modern sensibility that marries design and technology by always looking towards the future (AR try-ons, holographic catwalks, parametric fabrication) and while remaining rooted in classic silhouettes, like sleek blazers, puffers and knits.
“From the beginning of the brand, various K-Pop stars like Girls’ Generation, CNBLUE, AOA and others have worn our designs for stage costumes and in music videos,” she says. “It would be good to think about ways to create synergy between Korean designers and K-pop stars.”
You know that the celebrity beauty brand boom is over when even the celebrities themselves admit that they’re not into it. “I’ve never really been interested in beauty products,” Jared Leto recently told Vogue about his new 12-piece skin- and body-care line, Twentynine Palms.
The celebrities are tired. Consumers are over it, big time. The market is oversaturated, and everyone knows it. Celebrity beauty brands are officially on their way out — but that doesn’t mean the beauty business is slowing down.
The global cosmetics market is expected to grow from $382.88 billion in 2021 to $643.03 billion by 2030. With everyone rooting against celebrity beauty brands, though, who will beauty consumers look to for innovation? The answer is the same source that celebrities themselves have always relied upon: the hairstylists, makeup artists and estheticians that they employ to get them ready for red carpets and keep them informed about what’s trending.
Authenticity is the new currency, and unfortunately for the celebrities, the people just aren’t buying it from them anymore. According to NPD data, celebrity beauty brands only account for 7% of sales in the U.S .beauty market.
“It’s just glorified merch at this point,” says Dulma Altan, TikTok creator, consultant and founder of the business podcast Due Diligence. “It’s not enough anymore for the products to be good. If they’re not doing anything interesting, it’s still a bit of a cash grab, and a lot of people can feel that. That’s going to be a liability.”
Even the celebrity beauty brands that supposedly do it right (Altan cites Hailey Bieber‘s Rhode Beauty as a recent example) still have trouble escaping the cloud of doubt that’s cast over the entire genre. The truth is that there are more disappointing celebrity beauty brands than promising ones, and inevitably a few bad lip glosses will ruin the whole bunch.
Photo: Courtesy of Rhode
As the celebrity beauty brand empire wanes, consumers will seek out brands that they can trust to deliver on their claims. Celebrity beauty brands have had their 15 minutes of fame and will soon be replaced by professionally-developed formulas backed by sound science and decades of real-world experience.
Makeup brands like Jones Road (from veteran makeup artist Bobbi Brown) and Danessa Myricks (from the makeup artist of the same name) are making artistry more accessible, while hair-care brands like Frédéric Fekkai, Andrew Fitzsimons and Act+Acre are bringing healthy hair education to the masses. When compared celebrity-helmed brands, these companies are positioning themselves as better suited to meet the demands of the new consumer.
Professional brands have been around long before celebrity business managers sought to diversify their clients’ streams of income. The rise of celebrity beauty brands mimics the rise of celebrity perfumes in the ’90s and early 2000s, when Glow by JLo and Curious by Britney Spears reigned supreme — but that same era ushered in brands from makeup artists like Brown, François Nars of Nars and Kevyn Aucoin, to name a handful. Back then, the world was obsessed with supermodels and the artists who transformed them for magazine covers and runways; it wasn’t long before the products used backstage went mainstream.
“Their formulas were genius,” says Christine Cherbonnier, celebrity makeup artist and former assistant to legendary makeup artists Rose-Marie Swift and Pat McGrath (who each went on to found their own makeup lines, RMS in 2009 and Pat McGrath Labs in 2015). “Paula Dorf was the first one to take technical products that makeup artists used that you could previously only find in a theater store or a makeup store to the mass market. They basically gave up their tricks and traded products to sell to us.”
In addition to her work as a makeup artist, Cherbonnier is also the Design Executive Officer of Mothership Materials, a green commodities manufacturer that helps develop formulas for the next generation of beauty and wellness brands. She joined the company after having a negative experience with cosmetics manufacturers while trying to develop a line of natural products, which ended up costing her $45,000. In the end, she walked away from the entire process without releasing a single SKU. Now, she works with beauty professionals to bring their creative visions to life.
All of Mothership Materials’ brands and formulas are founded by industry professionals with deep industry expertise, which Cherbonnier says gives them an edge over celebrity-founded beauty brands: “They have such a clear perspective. Not one of them wants to make the same thing, and I think that’s what’s so fascinating in an industry where we’re constantly seeing the same thing with a different brand over and over again.”
Photo: Courtesy of Jones Road
Makeup artist Bobbi Brown and hairstylist Frédéric Fekkai both play a unique role in this resurgence of professional beauty brands. Both creatives launched their namesake companies in the ’90s to much success, and have since gone through their own brand evolutions. Bobbi Brown left Bobbi Brown Cosmetics in 2016 and founded Jones Road Beauty in 2020, while Frédéric Fekkai bought back his brand from Proctor & Gamble in 2018 after selling it to the conglomerate in 2008 and relaunched Fekkai in 2019, aiming to merge sustainability with salon-grade products. Both have weathered decades of change in the industry as artists and entrepreneurs, which makes them exceptionally well-poised for this professional beauty brand renaissance.
“Before becoming an entrepreneur and launching either of my beauty brands, I was a makeup artist, so I had deep product knowledge,” Brown tells Fashionista. “I knew what worked and what didn’t, and I knew what products I wish I had in my kit but that didn’t exist yet, so I made them. When I launched Jones Road, I had decades of beauty and business experience under my belt, so I knew exactly what products to make and how to launch a successful business.”
Fekkai feels similarly that the experience of being a working beauty professional is paramount to his success.
Scroll to Continue
“The hands-on, in-depth knowledge gained from practicing your craft day-in-and-day-out gives you invaluable insights into the needs of all different types of hair,” he says. “When you touch thousands of heads of hair, you then know how the products need to perform to deliver the styles or benefits the guest is looking for. A celebrity is an expert on their specific hair type, a good professional stylist is an expert on all hair types.”
Photo: Courtesy of Andrew Fitzsimons
Celebrity hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons is a new founder, coming into the space as both an influencer and celebrity stylist for Kim and Kourtney Kardashian, Joan Smalls, Ashley Graham, Madonna and Bella Hadid. He launched his eponymous line earlier this year and believes that professionals are unparalleled when it comes to providing education, which he argues is what this generation of consumers really wants.
“They see the work we do every day via social media, so there’s a trust there that you can use these products to achieve similar results, [without] photoshop or filters,” says Fitzsimons. “Access to great information is a game-changer, and being able to relay that education to consumers is where experts can really shine.”
While celebrity brands are often just a flash in the pan, professional brands can have staying power without remaining stagnant, as evidenced by Brown and Fekkai’s abilities to evolve their own brands over time. Like celebrity perfumes of the ’90s and early 2000s, it’s likely that only a handful of celebrity beauty brands will stick around longer than a few years. Consumers may buy it once for the novelty, but they’ll return to professional brands for innovation and results.
“While celebrity-founded brands often garner buzz around launch, few have been able to scale and mature successfully, and provide consumers with the quality they’re looking for,” says Helen Reavey, certified trichologist, celebrity hairstylist and founder of hair-care brand Act + Acre. “Consumers often find themselves going back to those credible brands whose focus has always been on the efficacy of their products.”
Reavey carved out a niche within the broad hair-care category with Act + Acre, focusing on scalp heath as the most important factor for promoting healthy hair growth. Now, we’re seeing other hair-care brands take the same approach and come out with scalp-targeted products. Danessa Myricks brought a similar innovation to the makeup category with her Yummy Skin Blurring Balm Powder, an innovative balm-to-powder formula that we’ll no doubt see other brands incorporate into their complexion products in due time. As consumers look for innovation in a sea of sameness, they’ll turn to artists for direction and to set trends, rather than simply cash in on them.
Celebrity beauty brands also provide a glimpse into the ethics of employment, if you look closely: Being a celebrity is a business, and the celebrities themselves may be the face of that business, but they have an entire team to help shape and refine that face, including beauty professionals like hairstylists and makeup artists. When these celebrities launch their own beauty brands, they’re not just selling their own image — they’re selling the polished façade that these artists and experts helped create. Not only are celebrities taking credit for work that isn’t wholly theirs, they’re also directly profiting off of it.
“I do see the injustice of that,” says Altan. “To me, that’s just a microcosm of the broader issue with capitalism and ownership, which is that people who have advantages accrue greater advantages through the form of equity and ownership because they already had that leg up, and then it just snowballs from there.”
The relationship between a celebrity and their glam squad can be symbiotic, but it’s up to the celebrity to give credit where credit’s due.
“If the celebrity is leaning on their makeup artist or hairstylist for expert advice, I believe it can be a mutually beneficial situation,” says Reavey. “I do believe it’s important for the celebrity to give credit to those who have helped shape the brand along the way and have lent their knowledge and support.”
Photo: Courtesy of Haus Labs
While the ethics of celebrity beauty brands are murky at best, some celebrities are doing it better than others. Lady Gaga launched Haus Labs in collaboration with her longtime makeup artist Sarah Tanno in a first-of-its-kind partnership. The move lends an added dose of credibility and artistic vision to Haus Labs, which helps it stand out amongst a growing number of celebrity brands. Partnering with an industry expert is one way that celebrities are bolstering themselves ahead of the backlash that many celebrity brands are getting these days. Hailey Bieber, for her part, tapped cosmetic chemist Ron Robinson, founder and chief executive officer of BeautyStat, to be Rhode’s chemist-in-residence and help with product development ahead of its launch earlier this year.
Beauty professionals launching their own brands is one way to balance the scales of justice. As the landscape becomes more saturated (and arguably more scammy), brands with built-in credibility will come out on top, whether that’s through a partnership or the artists striking out on their own.
As the line between beauty professional and influencer gets more blurry, Altan advises professionals to prepare to leverage their network if they want to beat celebrities at their own game, just as celebrities tried to do with them: “It’s going to be the professionals with both the credibility and their own following that are impenetrable.”
Please note: Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site. This in no way affects our editorial decision-making.
Photo: Giorgio Perottino/Getty Images for Fondazione Prada
These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Wednesday.
Why Prada is appointing new leadership As announced Tuesday, Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada are appointing Andrea Guerra CEO of Prada Group. The shift comes as Bertelli, aged 76, and Prada, 73, are preparing to pass the reins on to the family’s next generation. (Their son, Lorenzo Bertelli, 34, has taken on an influential role at the company since 2017.) While the younger Bertelli is projected to take over Prada within the next few years, the company plans on first appointing external talent before easing into its new generation. “The market is likely to react positively to the management changes. While Lorenzo Bertelli has been instrumental in some of the initiatives of the group… it would have likely been too early for him to take on the role as group CEO,” says UBS analyst Susy Tibaldi. {Business of Fashion}
Chanel’s Éric Pfrunder has passed away Éric Pfrunder, Chanel‘s director of images for three decades and Karl Lagerfeld‘s close creative partner, passed away on Monday at the age 74. According to his son Jasper, Pfrunder had been suffering from a longtime illness. Throughout his prolific career, Pfrunder and Lagerfeld produced a range of editorial shoots for magazines such as American Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. “Eric was a precious member of the Karl Lagerfeld family, he will be sorely missed and will always be remembered as a crucial part of Karl’s history,” says Pier Paolo Righi, chief executive officer of Karl Lagerfeld. {WWD}
Scroll to Continue
What’s driving renewed interest in perfume? While scent may not have previously been a priority when getting ready, the past few years have brought about a surge of interest in perfume. The trend is spearheaded by enthusiastic young people on social platforms like Twitter and TikTok, as well as the rise of scent podcasts and even emerging fragrance influencers. “I think a lot of it does have to do with, oddly, the brandification of yourself as an individual. Scent is just the next dimension of how you represent yourself and how you express yourself…” says Tynan Sinks, host of the podcast “Smell Ya Later.” Brands like Fragrantica and Soliani are creating new palettes of unfamiliar scents that cater to every demographic, leading to this renewed interest in personalized scents. {Nylon}
When the cold winds roll in and snow comes down, there are few better feelings than wrapping yourself in something warm from head-to-toe: lined boots and thick socks to keep feet warm, cute mittens to protect your hands (while still easily accessing your phone), dramatically chunky sweaters.
Winter is already a gray time, so I like using fashion as a tool for bringing in more joyfulness and color — an extension of dopamine dressing, if you will. There’s an air of exuberance right now, with that post-lockdown feeling and being “back outside,” and that extends to our cozy-season essentials.
Ahead, we’ve rounded up some of the most fun cozy items money can buy, from Ugg mules to shearling scrunchies to Gigi Hadid-approved cardigans. Happy shopping!
Guest in Residence Cabin Cardigan, $645, available here (sizes XS-XXL)
Offline by Aerie Fluffy Sherpa Jogger, $59, available here (sizes XXS-XXL)
Another Tomorrow Merino Wool Knit Skirt, $490, available here (sizes XS-L)
She and Prince Harry attended the 2022 Robert F. Kennedy Human Rights Ripple of Hope Award Gala in New York City, where the couple received an award for their charitable work through the Archwell foundation. For the occasion, Ghesquière designed a minimalist, ivory-colored off-the-shoulder dress with a tapered tulip skirt and gentle draping. To accompany the look, Markle also wore a shoulder-grazing pair of earrings by CH Carolina Herrera and black pumps.
Markle also went minimalist on the beauty front, pulling her hair into a sleek, low bun — which has become one of the Duchess’ signature looks — embracing her naturally glow-y skin and enhancing her eyes with a subtly smoky effect.
Welcome to our column, “Hey, Quick Question,” where we investigate seemingly random happenings in the fashion and beauty industries.
MAC Cosmetics’ Whitney Houston collection is here, and it’s chock-full of the hyper-glam, 1980s-perfect staples with which the late vocalist remains associated to this day. Marked by bold smokey eyes and bold red and metallic-brown lips, Houston’s beauty regimen was as iconic as she herself was, throughout all her decades of fame. And now that it’s shoppable in luxe gold packaging, fans can get a small piece of her cult of personality, created alongside and approved by the Whitney Houston Estate itself.
MAC’s Houston line has been a long time coming. The brand announced the collection more than a year ago, last September, to be timed with the release of Houston biopic “I Wanna Dance With Somebody.” It’s also “something Whitney always wanted to do,” the artist’s sister-in-law and former manager Pat Houston told People. “I’m pleased we can do something that I know she would have loved.”
If any makeup brand was going to bring this to fruition, it was MAC. The cosmetics giant has collaborated with celebrities for decades, even before celebrity beauty affiliations became ubiquitous. Its charitable Viva Glam initiative, which raises money and awareness for HIV/AIDS, has been releasing collections since 1994, including ones in partnership with living legends like Rihanna, Lady Gaga and, most recently, Rosalía. MAC’s first significant posthumous launch came in 2012, with a 28-piece makeup line inspired by Marilyn Monroe.
Other late celebrities followed, including Selena Quintanilla, with a range that commemorated the 25th anniversary of her passing, and Aaliyah, thanks to a viral fan petition wherein shoppers went so far as to create mockups of products they wanted. Both sold out immediately. But experts attest that cosmetics brands like MAC aren’t just in it for the profits (although, yes, they do make money). For the estates of certain departed figures, like Houston, eye palettes and lipsticks are just one small, but not altogether insignificant, way to keep their legacy alive for a new generation. It’s also, somewhat uncouthly, good for business.
“These posthumous launches aren’t necessarily money-drivers, but more so relationship-builders in a few ways,” says Kirbie Johnson, a beauty reporter and co-founder of beauty podcast Gloss Angeles. “If MAC and Estée Lauder have a great relationship with a movie studio, why not work together on promoting a film? Not to mention the fan relationship, which is important to a brand.”
Johnson goes on to explain that if an estate like Houston’s is angling for a makeup collaboration, it may feel more comfortable with a behemoth like MAC because, well, they know it will be done right. In Houston’s case, the packaging is elevated and the formulas are what you’d expect from a MAC product, Johnson says, and “you don’t feel like the brand skimped to make it.” As one of the top three global makeup brands, MAC sees a reported annual turnover of more than $1 billion, with 500 independent stores.
“I feel like MAC is a household name at this point, but some of this could be a play to either increase reach or awareness of the brand to the departed’s fanbase or simply to add consumer value,” adds Johnson. “MAC is a legacy brand; collaborating with icons like Selena, Aaliyah and Whitney positions them in the same category.”
Scroll to Continue
A posthumous collaboration, however, is not without its risks. As Johnson says, the person the collaboration is being made for is no longer here, so how can they give approval? In 2017, for example, Urban Decay received a flood of criticism for its Jean-Michel Basquiat collection. (“An artist known for his highly critical takes on power structures like capitalism surely wouldn’t be putting out an eyeshadow palette,” says Johnson.) “You have to hope whoever is running the estate is someone they trusted and is acting in the deceased’s best interest,” says Johnson.
Indeed, fans of late icons, like Houston, are especially protective after their passing — which, ultimately, leads to higher sales. Cieja Springer, a longtime fashion marketer and founder of the “From the Bottom Up!” podcast, attributes this sensation to what she calls “brand regret,” which goes a step further than buyer’s remorse and tends to afflict those who, for a range of reasons, weren’t fans of the artist when they were alive. In the case of Gen Z, which is now captivating the cosmetics industry with its growing purchasing power, this is simply because they weren’t born yet.
“In order for fans to not constantly live with the regret of not giving the artist their flowers while they were here, they jump on it now so they’re not left out,” says Springer. “It’s all about not being left out, at the end of the day.”
With a posthumous product launch, fans are able to buy a piece of their favorite celebrity again (or for the first time) — and as Johnson adds, that opportunity may not come around again, which creates more incentive to buy the product. This is especially true in the case of figures like Aaliyah or Selena, who didn’t have a long period of fame before passing, “so perhaps there was less memorabilia for fans to purchase as a token of their love for both artists,” says Johnson. But of all the memorabilia and merch possibilities, why makeup?
“Whether the celebrity is currently active in their field or not, there’s a shorthand that exists with the ‘look’ and palette of a highly celebrated and media-visible celebrity that gives the consumer an ability to recreate famous looks or a style with which they identify, or find aspirational,” answers Professor Stephan Kanlian, chairperson of FIT‘s unique master’s degree program for emerging leaders in the cosmetics and fragrance sector. “It’s a basic need of universal beauty that individuals aspire to copy the look of someone they see as having great beauty or style.”
After all, makeup products are more attainable than, say, fashion items for most fans, especially younger ones. Johnson offers the example of Harry Styles’s HA HA HA capsule for Gucci, which starts at $235 for a pair of striped logo socks, with T-shirts running around $750. “I’d bet most fans are sporting his $20 Pleasing nail polish instead,” she notes.
“Most people cannot afford a Chanel bag, but they can afford Les Beiges Bronzer,” says Johnson. “As for celebrities who have passed, you can’t carry a record on your person to show you’re a fan, but you can pull a Whitney Houston-branded MAC compact from your bag.”
As the year ends and we reflect on the last 12 months, Google‘s annual Year in Search reveals what the most culturally significant moments, people and trends of 2022 were — according to what we typed into our search engines.
Based on the top trending queries (which the company defines as searches with a high spike in traffic over a sustained period within the U.S.), the Year in Search yields some fascinating results, some more surprising than others: On the fashion front, “how to style leather pants” was a trending styling tip, while many also inquired about the “preppy aesthetic“; Hailey Bieber’s nails, meanwhile, topped beauty searches, as did “passport makeup trend” and “What skincare products should not be refrigerated?”
There were also some funny findings, such as “Minnie Mouse” ranking among the top trending fictional outfits, “Adam Sandler” emerging as a top celebrity style influencer and “old money” being one of the most-searched aesthetics.
Read on for all the top trending fashion and beauty searches — in categories ranging from skin care to celebrity hair to sustainability — of 2022.
Makeup Trends
Passport makeup trend
Addison Rae lip gloss trend
White dot trend
Invisible eyeliner trend
Douyin blush trend
Doe eyes trend
Tired eyes trend
Crying makeup trend
Under eyeshadow trend
Dark lip liner trend
Skincare Questions
What skincare products should not be refrigerated?
Salut les filles! Whether you genuinely love the show, love to hate it or hate that you love it, “Emily in Paris” is coming back forseason three on Dec. 21. (How many times have you watched the trailer? Be honest.) As we await Emily, Mindy, Sylvie, Camille, Gabriel and Alfie’s returns to our screens, the cast gathered in — where else? — the French capital on Tuesday to premiere la nouvelle saison, and did so in characteristically expressive fashion.
Lily Collins went with a sand-colored, tied-cutout dress from Saint Laurent, while Ashley Park went maximalist in a gold sequined gown with matching duster coat by Valentino. Camille Razat also went with Valentino, but opted for a more muted look — a cream long-sleeved top and feathered trouser from Spring 2023 — and added a magenta choker necklace (and eyeshadow) for a pop of color.
As they prepare to face off on screen, Philippine Leroy Beaulieu and Kate Walsh went with different approaches to sartorial sculpture: Leroy Beaulieu in an asymmetric-front strapless LBD, Walsh in a formfitting long-sleeved Stéphane Rolland gown with a gathered fabric detail along one side.
Scroll to Continue
Though most of the attention was on the principal cast, Kim Cattrall made an appearance in a black sleeveless jumpsuit and fascinator that gave us flashbacks to the veiled hat she wore to Carrie’s book party post-chemical peel in “Sex and the City.” (Does this confirm rumors that the actor is reuniting with Darren Star for a cameo?)
See all the best looks from the season three premiere of “Emily in Paris” below.
Lily Collins wearing Saint Laurent at the season three premiere of “Emily in Paris” in Paris. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Ashley Park wearing Valentino at the season three premiere of “Emily in Paris” in Paris. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Camille Razat wearing Valentino at the season three premiere of “Emily in Paris” in Paris. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu at the season three premiere of “Emily in Paris” in Paris. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Kate Walsh wearing Stéphane Rolland at the season three premiere of “Emily in Paris” in Paris. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Kim Cattrall at the season three premiere of “Emily in Paris” in Paris. Photo: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Tuesday.
Quinta Brunson is the star of Cosmopolitan‘s The Party Issue The “Abbott Elementary” star and creator is gracing the cover of Cosmpolitan‘s Issue 8: The Party Issue. In an interview with Patrice Peck, Quinta Brunson discusses her path to television success, her appreciation for Marilyn Monroe and her role as a boss. When it comes to whether Brunson has had time to celebrate her recent award wins, she says, “I’m finding my ways to celebrate, but it’s been a consistent grind […] I look forward to the day when I can look back and remember, Ah, yeah. That was cool.” {Cosmopolitan}
Photo: Courtesy of Instagram
Instagram publishes its 2023 trend report Instagram, in partnership with WGSN, has released its 2023 trend report based on the topics, issues and trends that matter to Gen-Z users. Findings of the report include: more than half of Gen-Z respondents are committed to making their own clothes as a way to be more sustainable; Gen Z see makeup as a form of self-expression rather than a way to augment their beauty; and two out of three Gen-Z shoppers look for climate-proof skin care to protect themselves against climate change. You can read the full report here. {Fashionista inbox}
Scroll to Continue
Andrea Guerra will join the Prada Group as new CEO Former Luxottica CEO Andrea Guerra will be recommended as Chief Executive Officer of the Prada Group at a board meeting on Jan. 26, replacing Patrizio Bertelli, who will become chairman of the board. Miuccia Prada will remain Miu Miu‘s Creative Director and continue to collaborate with Raf Simons at Prada. In a statement, Prada and Bertelli said, “This is a fundamental step we have decided to undertake, while completely engaged in the company, to contribute more to the evolution of the Prada Group.” {Fashionista inbox}
Gucci will show its Cruise 2024 collection in Seoul On May 15, Gucci will present its Cruise 2024 collection in Seoul, South Korea. The show will mark 25 years since Gucci opened its first Seoul flagship store in 1998. Following Alessandro Michele’s sudden departure last month, the Gucci design office will carry out the house designs until a new Creative Director is announced. {WWD}
Photo: Courtesy of Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta launches ‘Bottega for Bottegas’ Bottega Veneta has announced the second iteration of its commitment to supporting international ‘bottegas,’ which translates in essence to ‘workshop.’ This holiday season, the brand will pay homage to various bottegas through its website, advertising, newsletters, store windows and a custom display at Bergdorf Goodman in New York. Some of the items to be featured include Italian culture-inspired products from international makers, like a Shanghai-based pasta-maker and a woodworker in Vermont. {Fashionista inbox}
Editors’ Picks are the Fashionista team’s true (#notspon) fashion and beauty obsessions, handpicked by professionals who see it all. Any beauty product you see here has been vetted and tested by the editor recommending it.
There’s a TikTok trend in which creators document themselves squeezing entire tubes of Tretinoin or other retinoids into giant tubs of body cream and then mixing the two together, expecting to, (1) avoid the irritation and dryness that can accompany retinol by buffering it with moisturizer and, (2) wind up with a potent anti-aging cocktail to slather all over their bodies. While I can certainly understand this impulse — especially as I make my way through my 30s and start considering how I can prevent wrinkles from forming on my body as well as my face — experts agree that this method isn’t actually a smart one, since mixing the retinoid into a giant, air-exposed tub of product doesn’t just dilute it, it also undoes the preservative measures in place and renders the Tret basically powerless. (Those ugly little aluminum tubes serve an actual purpose, people!)
So instead of wasting precious retinol by dumping it into a random body lotion, why not seek out a product that’s been intentionally formulated by actual scientists who know what they’re doing to deliver that same combination of moisturizing-and-anti-aging benefits to the body? See: Gold Bond Age Renew Retinol Overnight Body & Face Lotion, my new favorite body cream.
Gold Bond Age Renew Retinol Overnight Body & Face Lotion, $12, available here.
Photo: Courtesy of Gold Bond
Let me state the obvious: This is not a sexy or luxurious product in appearance. But you can’t always judge a body cream by its bland drugstore packaging; the thick, almost frosting-like formula inside feels plenty fancy. The balm-like lotion spreads easily and absorbs into skin in a few minutes, and it’s unscented, so it doesn’t compete with other products. I’d be willing to bet that in a blind test, it would be impossible to guess that this is, in fact, a drugstore formula that costs only $12.
Scroll to Continue
Then there are the actives: In addition to the titular retinol, the lotion is formulated with exfoliating urea, tightening peptides, brightening niacinamide, moisturizing shea butter, glycerin, jojoba, squalene, macadamia seed oil and cocoa seed butter, plus vitamin-rich watermelon, apple and lentil extracts. There’s a whole lot going on here for what on its surface appears to be a simple drugstore lotion.
I’ve been using it in the evening after my post-workout showers, and my skin still feels smooth and quenched the next day (which, in the winter, is really saying something). While the formula is made for use on both the face and the body, I personally haven’t put it on my face, as it feels a bit heavy for my congestion-prone complexion. (And I have a prescription retinoid I use on my face anyway.) But I do think it would be a great starter face retinol for those who haven’t used prescriptions and are prone to sensitivity and dryness.
I’ve already gone through one tube of this stuff, and I definitely plan to stock up on more, stat.
Gold Bond Age Renew Retinol Overnight Body & Face Lotion, $12, available here.
Please note: This product was gifted. Occasionally, we use affiliate links on our site. In no way do either affect our editorial decision-making.
Throughout her career, Whitney Houston was known for embracing glamour when it came to her personal style, and especially her makeup. Now, to honor the late singer’s legacy, MAC Cosmetics is launching a makeup collection inspired by some of her most iconic looks. Created in collaboration with her estate, the 12-piece collection launches Dec. 6, just in time for the holiday season and ahead of the upcoming biopic “I Wanna Dance With Somebody,” which hits theaters mid-December.
“This collection captures the hues and finishes that were essential to Whitney’s most memorable looks,” said MAC Senior Artist Fatima Thomas in a press release. “In a collection this sophisticated, there’s something for every beauty lover.”
That includes an eight-pan eyeshadow palette replete with shimmery shades, four lipstick shades (including a bold red to recreate the singer’s signature look) housed in gold cases, two lip glosses, a blush and a golden-tinged version of the brand’s Extra Dimension Skinfinish powder for a radiant glow. Also on offer are a set of Whitney-esque falsh lashes and a coordinating makeup pouch.
Scroll to Continue
“Whitney was always a champion of women feeling beautiful, whether it was a major event or just for everyday wear,” recalled Pat Houston (Whitney’s longtime manager and sister-in-law, who is also the executor of Houston’s estate) in a statement. “Whitney loved working with colors on the lips and eyes — that iconic red lip was always a favorite of hers.”
MAC has always been a prolific collaborator, especially with musicians, but it’s worth noting that this isn’t the first time the cosmetics brand has dropped a collection inspired by an artist who has long since passed away; it’s also “collaborated” with Selena Quintanilla, Aaliyah and Marilyn Monroe.
The launch is available to shop online and in-store at MAC and Macy’s on Thursday. See all the products in the gallery below.
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Sensual Red, $23
MAC x Whitney Houston Eye-Conic Palette, $39
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Pink Rose Powder Blush, $31
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Plum Rose Powder Blush, $31
MAC x Whitney Houston Extra Dimension SkinFinish, $44
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Fiesty Red, $23
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Moody Nude, $23
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Rose, $23
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Shimmery Cinnamon Lipglass, $23
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Shimmery Gold Lipglass, $23
MAC x Whitney Houston Nippy’s Clutch Makeup Bag, $40
The end of the year can be hectic between finding gifts for loved ones, wrapping up work to-dos and mapping out your winter plans. (It doesn’t help that the sun is basically gone by the time we clock out. Sigh.) Still, the holidays are exciting and present a host of fun dressing opportunities. Finding what to wear for the occasion(s) doesn’t, in the words of Avril Lavigne, have to be so complicated.
There are plenty of current runway trends that’ll inspire you to elevate your #OOTD with playful silhouettes, fun textures and other details that bring some much-needed festive flair. Below, check out six holiday-ready outfits to wear to any and all parties this season. Cheers!
Photo: India Roby/Fashionista
Shimmer’s not new to the holidays, but we have to admit, it’s always refreshing to see metallics get the spotlight they deserve during this time, wether it’s on pants, knits or a party shoe. If you’re feeling a bit daring, why not wear the look head to toe?
ME+EM Metallic Color Block Vest + Snood Metallic Viscose Stretch, $215, available here (sizes XS-L)
Eloquii Collectors Edition Metallic Mesh Tank, $70, available here (sizes 14-32)
Good American Good Icon Metallic Faux Leather Pants, $195, available here (sizes 00-26)
Nina Parker Plus Size Metallic Gold Duster, $109, available here (sizes 2X-3X)
Rosettes have recently reappeared on our style radars after many designers showcased them on the Spring 2023 runways. No matter the time of year, this darling, romantic floral detail is always a good choice for just about any outfit. You can incorporate rosettes through dresses and mini skirts or even Loewe’s rose-heeled pumps. Complete the look with a rosette-accented hair tie.
Lisa Says Gah Ceramic Rose Necklace, $50, available here
Mara Hoffman Rosie Ruffled Cropped Top, $177 (from $295), available here (sizes XS-3XL)
Sandy Liang Warton Skirt, $460, available here (sizes 0-12)
Samantha Pleet Persephone Dress, $360, available here (sizes 00-24)
Wolf & Badger Silk Rosie Green Scrunchie, $60, available here
Loewe Leather Rose-Heel Slingback Pumps, $1,700, available here
Fanm Mon Simbi Rose, $348, available here (sizes XXS-XXL)
Ana Luisa Rosalie Flower Stud Earrings, $55, available here
The Sparkly Glam Look
Photo: India Roby/Fashionista
Much like metallics, we’ll never get tired of sequins during the holidays. Glittery boots, crystal-adorned accessories and bejeweled denim are all pieces that just have to be worn. (If you’re want to rock the “dazzle” without all the shimmer, you can go for a more subtle gem print.)
Scroll to Continue
Intermix Viola Embellished Cropped Cardigan, $298, available here (sizes P-XL)
Frame Le Jane Studded Trouser, $898, available here (sizes 23-34)
Brother Vellies Elevator Boot in Disco Dust Glitter, $675, available here
& Other Stories Sequin Party Blazer, $249, available here (sizes 0-12)
Brandon Maxwell Pailette Pleated Skirt, $1,495, available here (sizes 16-20)
Kurt Geiger London Shoreditch Extra Small Cross Body, $170, available here
Cult Naked Pink Moon Top, $380, available here (sizes XXS-XL)
The Velvet Look
Photo: India Roby/Fashionista
Another holiday classic, velvet is plush, festive and keeps you warm on those long nights out. It’s always a solid choice for apparel, but there are also super fun accessories, like an all-over-pearl velvet bow and a velvet choker to complete the outfit.
Rhode Pia Dress in Jaipur Velvet, $475, available here (sizes 0-14)
GooGoo Atkins x Bar III Trendy Plus Size Scarf-Neck One-Sleeve Draped Maxi Dress, $80, available here (sizes 0X-4X)
Nana Jacqueline Vanessa Pants, $380, available here (sizes XS-L)
Maximilian Davis Harlequin Print Sheer Velvet Devoré Halter Top, $246 (from $615), available here (sizes S-XL)
Kate Spade Maya Flats, $198, available here (sizes 5-11)
What better excuse to bring out every single plaid item you own than winter? This season, you can channel your inner “Gossip Girl” by opting for tartan-printed dresses and skirts, platform heels, handbags and headbands.
Ralph Lauren Plaid Tie-Neck Taffeta Cocktail Dress, $285, available here (sizes 00-18)
Hill House Home The Party Platform, $295, available here (sizes 35-42)
Calzedonia Rhinestone Diamond Opaque 50 Denier Tights, $18, available here (sizes XS-L)
Selkie The Jane Eyre Ballroom Skirt, $249, available here (sizes XXS-6X)
Charles & Keith Altea Plaid Bucket Bag, $63.20 (from $79), available here
Frances Valentine Finley Blazer Stonegate Plaid Wool, $498, available here (sizes XS-3X)
The Comfy-Cozy Look
Photo: India Roby/Fashionista
“Cute” knows no bounds and contrary to popular belief, you don’t have to be uncomfortable to be an absolute sartorial show-stopper, even in the cold. The Comfy-Cozy look can be embodied in so many different ways, like knitted midi dresses to chunky vests. Finish it off with shearling earmuffs or a fuzzy purse.
State Cashmere The Oversized V-Neck Vest, $150, available here (sizes S-L)
We’re mere weeks away from the first day of winter, so, if you haven’t already, it’s time to start looking for proper gear to brave the chill. Thankfully, fashion’s embrace of the puffer jacket has turned practical outerwear into a style statement.
Sure, you can stick to a plain black puffer, but why not add something bright and colorful to your cold-weather rotation? There are so many elegant and fun options to choose from, like the print-forward styles from The Very Warm to the just-announced collaboration between Reformation and Canada Goose.
Below, we’ve rounded up our favorite puffers in a variety of lengths, patterns and price ranges so you can make a statement this winter.
Columbia Nylon Puffer, $350, available here (sizes XS-XXL)
Reformation x Canada Goose, $1,150, available here (sizes XS-XL)
Hill House The Violet Ruffle Sleeve Puffer Jacket, $375, available here (sizes XS-XXL)
Warning: Mild spoilers through episode four of “Welcome to Chippendales.”
In addition to ripped-from-the headlines murder, scandal and lots of bulges and butts, “Welcome to Chippendales” includes a dramatization of a key player in the famous nightclub’s story: the talent behind the male stripper troupe’s iconic looks.
“I’m a vision facilitator, a costume designer — especially costume designer. I’m a receptionist by trade, but fashion is my passion,” says Denise (Juliette Lewis), eagerly pitching her skills to Chippendales choreographer Nick De Noia (Murray Bartlett). Of course, she’s wearing the most fabulous animal-print jumpsuit as an endorsement.
While Denise is a fictionalized composite character, the real De Noia was close friends with Candace Mayeron, an associate producer for Chippendales who referred to herself as the dancers’ “den mother.”
“It’s part fantasy, part reality — part based on truth, part based on fiction,” says Peggy A. Schnitzer, the actual costume designer of “Welcome to Chippendales,” currently airing on Hulu.
Nick De Noia (Murray Bartlett) has a chat with Otis (Quentin Plair) in the Chippendales club.
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
Schnitzer grew up in Los Angeles in the late ’70s and ’80s, and later worked in New York for a stylist connected with Richard Avedon, Patrick Demarchelier and Helmut Newton. So, the “Welcome to Chippendales” setting is a “period after my own heart,” she says.
Schnitzer pulled from her own fashion experiences for the series,like taking inspiration from the work of famed Vogue photographer Guy Bourdin to outfit hedonistic party-goers in the Chippendales Los Angeles club scenes. “The use of his color was so perfect, like those reds and those greens — the teals,” she says. “It was just so luxe and so rich.”
Ahead, Schnitzer takes us through key costume highlights in the series — including those breakaway pants.
Steve Bannerjee’s Suits
Steve (Kumail Nanjiani) chats with new handyman, Ray (Robin de Jesus).
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
Somen “Steve” Bannerjee (Kumail Nanjiani) has extreme tunnel vision in chasing his American dream: He forgoes managing a family-run gas station chain in favor of capitalizing on a hole he sees in the entertainment market with Chippendales. He’s ambitiously — and consistently — dressed the part in a full suit-and-tie.
“His idol was Hugh Hefner,” says Schnitzer, also referring to the show’s re-creation of Steve’s late-’70s mood board, if you will, featuring the Playboy founder and aspirational scenes of Hollywood glamour. “For me, with the suits and his clothes, the arc was really important.”
Schnitzer began Steve’s early days with ’70s vintage or costume house-rented suits, and transitioned him into bespoke as his bank account grew with Chippendales popularity.
“All these really beautiful, luxurious, double-breasted suits, single-breasted suits, textured fabric, non-texture… were all stuff I had made for him,” explains Schnitzer, who also custom-designed his crisp shirting and most of his ties. “I have a huge collection of vintage tie pins and tie bars, so we matched all that up. It was super exciting to start from one thing and really dig to the max.”
Denise’s Amazing Jumpsuits
Denise (Juliette Lewis, center) unveils her ‘gamechanging’ breakaway pants idea to Nick, with dancer Richie (Michael Graceffa, left) as guinea pig.
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
As a self-proclaimed “fucking magician with a sewing machine,” Denise nails her pitch to join the Chippendales team after demonstrating her costume invention: the breakaway pant. (Tearaway pants actually originated in the athletic realm, through a 1967 collaboration between Adidas and German soccer player Franz Beckenbauer. But storytelling, right?)
The “medical receptionist and FIT dropout” (as Denise also describes herself) needs to dress to reflect her talents, like inventively tucking the hems of her aforementioned leopard-print jumpsuit into flashy gold ankle boots.
“Her clothes were glitzy from the beginning, because she was going out clubbing,” Schnitzer says. “That’s what her MO was in the first place.”
Denise’s stellar jumpsuit game.
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
The real costume designer enjoyed shopping exclusively vintage across the U.S. and Europe for Lewis-as-Denise, but actually found Denise’s leopard jumpsuit and satin-y raspberry one-piece (pictured above) at “swap meets in L.A.”
Irene’s Party-Girl Evolution
Irene (Annaleigh Ashford, right) matches the sweets and spices.
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
A reluctant member of a bachelorette party, Irene (Annaleigh Ashford) piques Steve’s interests at the Chippendales bar with her lightning-fast volume-to-dollars calculation skills and accounting acumen. The two get to know each other and trade business tips over Diet Coke à deux. Appropriately, Schnitzer begins the accountant’s journey with ’70s “secretarial” ensembles, like “little vests and stripes” and A-line skirts.
Scroll to Continue
“There was nothing sexy about her stuff at all,” says Schnitzer, pointing to her favorite ensemble (above) and the muted tones that dominate her wardrobe.
In a sweet moment, Steve takes Irene to an Indian sweets and spices restaurant for an impromptu date. She wears a “corduroy-velvet suit,” says Schnitzer, explaining, “The rust [color] was much more vibrant than you can see in the episode, but all the colors were like spices in [the cafe]. “
Schnitzer sourced mostly vintage for Irene.
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
Later, with Steve in India for his father’s funeral, Denise and Nick take Irene clubbing to unwind after a long Chippendales work evening. Thanks to Denise, Irene closes out the long night on the dancefloor screaming, “I love cocaine!”
“She started going out and then she just went full ‘Dallas,’” says Schnitzer, who transitioned Irene into more metallics and shimmer. “I found amazing [vintage] dresses that had lurex running through them and gold lamé. She was so fun to dress.”
Nick De Noia’s Stellar Shirt Collection
Nick De Noia (Murray Bartlett) in one of his signature suits and shirts.
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
In a case of perfect casting, “The White Lotus” season-one breakout Murray Bartlett embodies choreographer (and Steve’s ultimate rival) Nick De Noia. It’s like he was born to wear those circa-’80s, elaborately-printed wide-collar shirts, tight trouser suits and slick leather jackets.
Flanked by two women in slinky disco dresses, Nick makes his initial entrance into a less polished, early-era Chippendales in a light-wash denim suit with wide lapels and a brown-and-white floral shirt.
“Talk about a flaming pile of trash,” says the Emmy-winning choreographer, dismissing the strippers’ crude freestyle routines and amateur costumes.
“His clothes are very tonal,” says Schnitzer, who custom-made many of Nick’s suits and shirts in vibrant ’80s prints and gleaming fabrics. “It was just so fun finding enamel vintage belts for him.”
As Nick breaks off on his own to set up shop in New York City, he savvily adopts the Big Apple’s all-black uniform.
“There was a lot of leather, a lot of black pants,” says Schnitzer, noting the fashion turn into the ’90s with Calvin Klein minimalism. “[Bartlett] was just game to go completely full tilt — no matter what it was.”
The Chippendales ‘Game-Changer’ Breakaway Pants
The bellhop fantasy scenario.
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
Prior to Denise’s introduction of breakaway pants, the dancers needed to pause and awkwardly remove their trousers — or have an overzealous fan rip them off, as Otis (Quentin Plair) experiences. After studying the evolution of Chippendales costumes, Schnitzer noticed that the real dancers were gyrating sans shoes (also re-enacted in top photo), “because they realized when you’re taking off pants, you’re getting tripped up in shoes. It’s not sexy at all.”
But while the script called for Nick et al to be ecstatic about the dramatic tearaways, Schnitzer felt a tad trepidatious behind the scenes.
“I had never done them, and when you look at it, it looks completely effortless,” she says. So, she called a friend for advice: “Magic Mike” franchise costume designer Christopher Peterson.
“He goes, ‘Oh, my God, I’m going to save you a bucket of tears and years and hours of frustration,’” she says, with a laugh.
Peterson “guided” her through sourcing the optimal fabrics for the pant multiples needed to actually film a spicy bellhop or matador routine. The dance performances required a stretch material, while the g-string reveal — with a dramatic breakaway flourish — needed a more structured fabric with equal parts “tension.”
Most popular dancer Otis (Quentin Plair) as a matador.
Photo: Erin Simkin/Courtesy of Hulu
“This is very technical, but there are stress points on the body that we have to measure when we’re making the pants,” she says. “Those are the ones that, if you move around, they’re gonna pop open.”
While Salvador Perez used hidden mini-magnets for tearaway clothes in “Pitch Perfect 2,” Schnitzer relied on snap tape. But the trick is to end the tape before it hits the pants hem.
“Because people would get tripped up on their feet,” says Schnitzer, who custom-made all the stripper costumes, pants and g-strings. “It was really interesting. It was completely nail biting. Every time they would do it, you’re like, ‘Oh my god, it’s got to work.’ And it did.”
A mere 24 hours after dazzling in Rodarte tulle at the British Independent Film Awards, Florence Pugh was back on the red carpet — yet she struck a different sartorial chord at the 2022 Fashion Awards in London, where she accompanied Pierpaolo Piccioli in a minimal open-back Valentino ballgown in a stunning shade of crimson. She was one of the stand-outs at the event, which celebrates the best of the British fashion industry.
Also notable: Tilda Swinton in a graphic Charles Jeffrey Loverboy ensemble, Yasmin Finney in a sculptural-shouldered dress, Emily Carey of “House of the Dragon” and Jodie Turner-Smith, both in electric green — by Molly Goddard and Gucci, respectively.
See the best looks from the 2022 Fashion Awards in the gallery below.
Jodie Turner-Smith wearing Gucci at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images for BFC
Florence Pugh wearing Valentino at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Samir Hussein/WireImage
Alexa Chung at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Samir Hussein/WireImage
Yasmin Finney at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images for BFC
Tilda Swinton wearing Charles Jeffrey Loverboy at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Stephane Cardinale – Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images
Simone Ashley at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: David M. Benett/Max Cisotti/Dave Benett/Getty Images
Ashley Graham at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Mike Marsland/WireImage
Naomi Campbell wearing Valentino at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images for BFC
Emily Carey wearing Molly Goddard at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Mike Marsland/WireImage
Leomie Anderson at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Gareth Cattermole/BFC/Getty Images for BFC
Erin O’Connor at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Mike Marsland/WireImage
Irina Shayk at the 2022 Fashion Awards. Photo: Samir Hussein/WireImage
These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Monday.
Malone Souliers launches “Emily in Paris” shoe collection In anticipation of the third season of “Emily in Paris,” Malone Souliers teamed up with the show for a “très chic” shoe collaboration. The collection boasts 11 new styles in a variety of colorways inspired by the characters of the show, including The Emily, The Camille and The Gabriel. “Like everyone else, I became obsessed with ‘Emily in Paris’ when it first aired in 2020,” Mary Alice, the brand’s creative director, said in a statement. “The witty humor is what first drew me in, but then I couldn’t take my eyes off the outfits. I knew it would be the perfect show for Malone Souliers to collaborate with.” The collection is available to shop Dec. 6 at the brand’s Mount Street flagship store and online at MaloneSouliers.com. {Fashionista inbox}
The rise of resale in New York retail For The Cut, Emilia Petrarca interviews Emma Rodelius, founder of Lower East Side vintage shop Rogue, about how the neighborhood has shifted retail trends in New York. Rodelius calls the Lower East Side “the new Soho” and adds that it’s gone too corporate for her. Nostalgic resale and vintage finds for accessible prices are what attract customers to what she has coined the “Vintage District.” With the help of pop-up events, influencer closet sales and a strong social media presence, Rodelius says, “This is going to be an empire.” {The Cut}
The body behind the Y/Project x Jean Paul Gaultier body morph prints For Vogue, José Criales-Unzueta talks to the literal man in the multi-colored body-illusion graphics Glenn Martens designed in collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, which have been spotted on A-listers galore. Javier Des Leon, Spanish model and content creator, describes the birth of the print saying, “Glenn was interested in me, so they asked me to be a part of the next collection. I didn’t know what I would do or what the process would be like. They just told me I had to be nude and pose as a statue. It was a simple process, just working the lighting and trying to find the right pose.” When asked what it feels like to see his body on runways, tabloids and celebrities, Des Leon says, “I’m just very proud to have been a part of this and grateful to Glenn and his team. He’s a genius, and I love the direction in which he’s leading fashion right now.” {Vogue}
