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Tag: Morocco

  • US deported gay asylum-seeker to third country where homosexuality is illegal

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    DAKAR, Senegal — Being gay in Morocco is illegal and punishable by up to three years in prison. But it was the violence from her family that forced Farah, a 21-year-old gay woman, to flee the country.

    After a long journey to the United States and a third-country deportation by the Trump administration, however, Farah said she is now back in Morocco and in hiding.

    “It is hard to live and work with the fear of being tracked once again by my family,” she told The Associated Press, in a rare testimony from a person deported via a third country despite having protection orders from a U.S. immigration judge. “But there is nothing I can do. I have to work.”

    She asked to be identified by her first name only for fear of persecution. The AP saw her protection order and lawyers verified parts of her account.

    Farah said that before she fled, she was beaten by her family and the family of her partner when they found out about their relationship. She was kicked out of the family home and fled with her partner to another city. She said her family found her and tried to kill her.

    Through a friend, she and her partner heard about the opportunity to get visas for Brazil and fly there with the aim of reaching the United States, where they had friends. From Brazil, she trekked through six countries for weeks to reach the U.S. border, where they asked for asylum.

    “You get put in situations that are truly horrible,” she recalled. “When we arrived (at the U.S. border), it felt like it was worth the trouble and that we got to our goal.”

    They arrived in early 2025. But instead of finding the freedom to be herself, Farah said she was detained for almost a year, first in Arizona, then in Louisiana.

    “It was very cold,” she said of detention. “And we only had very thin blankets.” Medical care was inadequate, she said.

    She was denied asylum, but in August she received a protection order from an U.S. immigration judge, who ruled she cannot be deported to Morocco because that would endanger her life. Her partner, denied asylum and a protection order, was deported.

    Farah said she was three days from a hearing on her release when she was handcuffed by Immigration and Customs Enforcement and put on a plane to an African country she had never visited, and one where homosexuality is illegal: Cameroon. She was put in a detention facility.

    “They asked me if I wanted to stay in Cameroon, and I told them that I can’t stay in Cameroon and risk my life in a place where I would still be endangered,” she said. She was flown to Morocco.

    Most deportees had protection orders

    She is one of dozens of people confirmed to be deported from the U.S. by the Trump administration to third countries despite having legal protection from U.S. immigration judges. The real number is unknown.

    The administration has used third-country deportations to pressure migrants who are in the U.S. illegally to leave on their own, saying they could end up “in any number of third countries.”

    The detention facility in Cameroon’s capital of Yaounde, where Farah was held, currently has 15 deportees from various African countries who arrived on two flights, and none is Cameroonian, according to lawyer Joseph Awah Fru, who represents them.

    Eight of the deportees on the first flight in January, including Farah, had received a judge’s protection orders, said Alma David, an immigration lawyer with the U.S.-based Novo Legal Group who has helped deportees and verified Farah’s case. The AP spoke to a woman from Ghana and a woman from Congo, who both said they had protection orders, speaking on condition of anonymity for fear of retaliation.

    Another flight on Monday brought eight more people. Three freelance journalists reporting on the deportations to Cameroon for the AP were briefly detained there.

    Deporting people to a third country where they could be sent home was effectively a legal “loophole,” said David.

    “By deporting them to Cameroon, and giving them no opportunity to contest being sent to a country whose government hoped to quietly send them back to the very countries where they face grave danger, the U.S. not only violated their due process rights but our own immigration laws, our obligations under international treaties and even DHS’ own procedures,” David said.

    The U.S. Department of Homeland Security earlier confirmed there were deportations to Cameroon in January.

    “We are applying the law as written. If a judge finds an illegal alien has no right to be in this country, we are going to remove them. Period,” it said, and asserted that the third-country agreements “ensure due process under the U.S. Constitution.”

    Asked about the deportations to Cameroon, the U.S. State Department on Friday told the AP it had “no comment on the details of our diplomatic communications with other governments.” It did not reply to further questions.

    Cameroon’s Foreign Ministry didn’t respond to a request for comment.

    ‘Impossible choices’

    Farah was one of two women from the first group of deportees to return to Morocco.

    “They were given two impossible choices,” David said, and asserted that claiming asylum was not clearly presented as one of them. “This was before the lawyer had access to them.”

    She said International Organization for Migration staff in the facility did not give them any indication that there was a viable option other than going back to their home countries.

    Fru said he has not been granted access to the deportees. He said the assistant to the country director for the IOM, a U.N.-affiliated organization, told him he must apply to speak to them. Fru plans to do that Monday.

    The IOM told the AP it was “aware of the removal of migrants from the United States of America to some African countries” and added that it “works with people facing difficult decisions about whether to return to their country of origin.” It said its role is providing accurate information about options and ensuring that “anyone who chooses to return does so voluntarily.”

    The IOM said the facility in Yaounde was managed by the authorities in Cameroon. It did not respond to further questions.

    African nations are paid millions

    Cameroon is one of at least seven African nations to receive deported third-country nationals in a deal with the U.S. Others include South Sudan, Rwanda, Uganda, Eswatini, Ghana and Equatorial Guinea.

    Some have received millions of dollars in return, according to documents released by the State Department. Details of other agreements, including the one with Cameroon, have not been released.

    The Trump administration has spent at least $40 million to deport about 300 migrants to countries other than their own, according to a report released last week by the Democratic staff of the Senate Foreign Relations Committee.

    According to internal administration documents reviewed by the AP, 47 third-country agreements are in various stages of negotiation.

    In Morocco, Farah said it was hard to hear U.S. officials refer to people like her as a threat.

    “The USA is built on immigration and by immigrant labor, so we’re clearly not all threats,” she said. “What was done to me was unfair. A normal deportation would have been fair, but to go through so much and lose so much, only to be deported in such a way, is cruel.”

    Copyright © 2026 by The Associated Press. All Rights Reserved.

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  • Tesla Officially Launches in Morocco with First Retail Presence in Casablanca

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    Marrakech – Tesla officially launched its commercial activities in Morocco, with the opening of its first public retail location in Casablanca.

    The launch event took place at AnfaPlace Mall in Casablanca where Tesla showcased its first vehicles available in the market, the Model 3 and Model Y. 

    Tesla has also activated its online configurator for Morocco, allowing customers to customize and order vehicles directly from within the country without relying on traditional dealerships. 

    Tesla’s presence in Morocco is anchored by a locally registered company called Tesla Morocco, which was established on May 27, 2025 with a capital of around 27.5 million Moroccan dirhams.

    The subsidiary is headquartered in the Crystal Tower in Casablanca Marina and is responsible for importing, selling, and servicing Tesla vehicles, as well as deploying charging infrastructure and offering related services.

     

    Open to the public, the event also gave visitors the opportunity to interact with the Tesla team, learn about electric mobility and explore the brand’s product offerings firsthand. 

     

    This formal establishment follows earlier Tesla activity in the country. Since at least 2021, Tesla has installed Supercharger fast charging stations in Moroccan cities, including Casablanca, Tangier, and others, making the Kingdom one of the first African states to host the company’s charging infrastructure.

     

    According to recent reports, Tesla’s charging network in Morocco already includes around two dozen Supercharger stations that are operational 24/7 across major urban centers such as Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech, Tangier, Fès, and Agadir. 

     

    These stations support the growing adoption of electric vehicles and help address regional infrastructure needs. 

     

    The influx of fast chargers and the rollout of Tesla’s direct sales channels are expected to support broader EV adoption in Morocco, where interest in sustainable mobility has been increasing.

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  • Moroccan court sentences man accused of trafficking people to scam compound in Asia

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    CASABLANCA, Morocco (AP) — A Moroccan court on Tuesday sentenced a man to five years in prison and $107,300 in fines for human trafficking, in the country’s first ruling against someone accused of luring people to work in a scam compound in Asia.

    The case involved several young Moroccans who said they were attracted by an online job offer promising good pay in Thailand. Instead, they found themselves trafficked to Myanmar and forced to work more than 9,300 miles (14,966 kilometers) from home, facilitating online fraud and scams.

    The defendant, Nabil Moafik, denied the charges and called human trafficking a “crime against humanity” he would never commit.

    The United Nations says some 120,000 people are trapped in so-called scam centers, and prosecutions have been launched around the world to combat trafficking. Several are making their way through Moroccan courts.

    In Casablanca, victims present in court told The Associated Press they witnessed torture and other degrading treatment in the Myanmar centers. Some said they secured their release after paying ransoms in cryptocurrency, according to court documents provided by attorneys.

    Prosecutors said Moafik ran a Facebook group helping Moroccan immigrants navigate life in Turkey. There, he posted an ad for call-center work in Thailand. One person, Youssef Amzouz, responded. He was put in touch with another Moroccan who handled recruitment, interviewed and sent money to purchase a plane ticket to Malaysia.

    A police report read out in court said Moafik introduced Amzouz to another Moroccan who later demanded that he either pay a ransom or recruit 100 others to secure his freedom.

    Moafik told the judge that Amzouz called him after leaving the scam compound, saying he was receiving treatment in a hospital for injuries sustained from torture.

    “I was just a job mediator. I was getting between $21 to $107 for each person I recruited,” Moafik said. “I did not know that all of this would happen.”

    The International Organization for Migration, a U.N. body, has said middlemen can be unaware they’re participating in trafficking, making prosecuting such cross-border crimes difficult.

    The state prosecutor argued that Moafik’s aim was to profit from trading in goods, calling him “an essential element in the crime of human trafficking.”

    Local news outlet Hespress reported earlier this year that Morocco’s Foreign Ministry secured the release of 34 citizens trafficked to online scam centers in Myanmar. The ministry did not respond to AP’s emailed questions about the total number of Moroccans affected.

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  • Sermons urge youth to take part in public affairs in Morocco after wave of protests

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    RABAT, Morocco (AP) — Worshippers sat shoeless on the red-carpeted floor of a mosque in Morocco’s capital in silence, listening to a preacher in a raised pulpit reading a government-written sermon urging parents to involve their children in public affairs.

    The sermon, heard in mosques across the kingdom Friday, came after Morocco was shaken by an unprecedented and deadly youth uprising in recent weeks that demanded better social and economic conditions. The sermon didn’t directly address the protests, but was seen by some as an effort by the government to send a message to demonstrators in the movement, known as Gen Z 212.

    Preachers traditionally chose the topics of their sermons that precede congregational prayers. But in recent years, governments in countries including Morocco, Egypt, and Saudi Arabia have dictated sermon content. Officials say the move aims to curb extremist speech, but critics argue it turns sermons into tools for promoting the state’s vision and backing its policies.

    In a mosque in the Moroccan capital of Rabat, the imam, dressed in a white djellaba robe and speaking on a microphone to hundreds of worshippers from different ages, social and economic backgrounds, urged the faithful to fulfill their duty to the nation by participating in civic life.

    “One of the most important things we should care about is raising children to participate in the managing of public affairs (…) and participation in serving the nation, loving the homeland and watching over its security and stability,” the imam said.

    “A true citizen is the one who serves his nation and does it well,” he added, citing verses from the Quran, his voice echoing outside the mosque. Imams in Morocco are government employees, and sermons are standardized. The same sermon heard in Rabat is delivered across the country’s 53,000 mosques and aired live on public television.

    The protests stemmed from anger over government spending in sports infrastructure for the 2030 World Cup while public services were perceived as neglected. They were organized on social media platforms like Discord by an anonymous group that rejects any affiliation to political parties and called for toppling a government it views as corrupt.

    Government officials said they heard the young activists’ grievances and called on them to engage in dialogue and debate with institutions and in the public sphere. Several new measures, announced in a Cabinet meeting chaired by King Mohammed VI last week, are aimed at boosting youth political participation and job opportunities.

    They include a draft bill that would simplify election candidacy requirements for people younger than 35 and provide financial support covering 75% of their campaign fees. Many observers drew a direct link between the measure and the content of Friday’s sermon.

    The government also said the 2026 budget draft will allocate a record $15 billion (140 billion dirhams) on health and education, billions more than what was spent this year, will create 27,000 jobs in the two sectors, upgrade 90 hospitals and improve the overall quality of education.

    In Friday’s sermon, the imam cited examples of how disciples of Mohammed involved their children in councils to discuss public affairs.

    The Imam did not mention the Gen Z protests or the acts of vandalism, deaths and arrests linked to the demonstrations.

    The Moroccan Association of Human Rights said Friday that more than 1,500 people are facing prosecution for participating in the gatherings. The appeal court of Agadir, a coastal city 296 miles (477 kilometers) from Rabat, sentenced 33 defendants to a total of 260 years in prison for vandalism, local media reported.

    “I sincerely hope the real purpose behind these sermons is to support young people’s participation in public affairs, not to guide or restrict them,” said Soufiane, an 18-year-old college student at a weekend protest in Casablanca. He spoke on condition his last name not be used because of fear of retribution.

    He said Friday’s sermons should be backed by real and transparent action, but also noted that they could be a powerful way to positively influence young people to engage in political life.

    After the government’s promises and Friday’s sermons, weekend protests drew fewer than expected participants. Only dozens appeared at Saturday’s Casablanca gathering.

    “Friday sermons serve as a tool for practicing politics through mosques, whether to defend the state’s positions … or to address other issues,” said Dr. Driss El Ganbouri, a researcher specializing in religious affairs.

    “The state adopts a dual discourse toward citizens: one religious, and the other reflected through official decisions,” added El Ganbouri, author of ‘’Islamists Between Religion and Power.”

    El Ganbouri said many believe sermons have not kept pace with Morocco’s political and social realities, noting that preachers who stray from official messages can be punished or dismissed.

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  • Morocco’s King Urges Speedy Reforms to Boost Jobs, Rural Development

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    RABAT (Reuters) -King Mohammed VI of Morocco on Friday called for accelerating reforms to create jobs for young people, improve public services, and reduce regional inequalities by giving greater attention to the mountain and oasis regions.

    The King made the call in a speech at the opening of the country’s parliament, a week after widespread youth-led protests demanding better health, education and an end to corruption.

    Morocco is a constitutional monarchy where the King sets the major policy direction implemented by an elected government.

    The King did not address youth protesters directly but said that there should be no inconsistencies or competition between the country’s national flagship projects and social programs.

    He urged “a faster implementation pace and stronger impacts from the next-generation of local development programs,” which he had asked the government to prepare in July.Priority areas include job creation for young people and “tangible progress in the education and health sectors, as well as local rehabilitation policies,” he said.

    Morocco’s unemployment rate stands at 12.8%, with youth unemployment reaching 35.8% and 19% among graduates, official data showed.

    Special attention should be given to the “most fragile areas” such as mountains, he said.

    While the level of poverty has dropped in Morocco from 11.9% in 2014 to 6.8% in 2024, mountainous and oases areas show above-average poverty levels, according to the national statistics agency.

    Most of the country’s population, financial and industrial hubs and vital infrastructure are concentrated in the northwest, leaving the rest of the country reliant on farming, fisheries and tourism.Thousands lined the avenue leading to parliament to greet King Mohammed VI who wore traditional attire and was accompanied by his brother and his son, the crown prince.

    The same square in front of the Parliament saw only dozens protesting on Thursday night in response to a call by the country’s Generation Z protest version, a leaderless group known as GenZ 212.

    The group said on its Discord server it would suspend its protests on Friday out of respect for the King.

    (Reporting by Ahmed El Jechtimi; Editing by Sharon Singleton and Diane Craft)

    Copyright 2025 Thomson Reuters.

    Photos You Should See – Oct. 2025

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  • Morocco Prime Minister Calls for Dialogue as Nightly Protests Grow More Violent

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    RABAT (Reuters) -Moroccan Prime Minister Aziz Akhannouch said on Thursday he was open to dialogue to end youth protests as security forces prepared for a sixth night of demonstrations which have escalated into riots across the country.

    Hundreds of people have been arrested and injured, with buildings ransacked and cars torched since the protests began on Saturday. Though crowds have not been huge in numbers, the increasingly violent protests have brought the worst street unrest in Morocco since mass demonstrations in the Rif region in 2016-2017.

    Wednesday’s fifth night brought the first reported deaths, with authorities saying the security forces had shot and killed three youths armed with knives who were trying to steal weapons and ammunition in Lqliaa, near Agadir.

    DIALOGUE IS ‘ONLY PATH’ SAYS PM

    In a statement, Akhannouch said his government had “engaged with the demands expressed by the youth movements” and was ready “for dialogue and discussion”.

    “Once again, we reiterate that a dialogue-based approach is the only path to addressing the various challenges facing our country.”

    The protests initially began with demands for better education and healthcare. They have been organised by a loosely formed, anonymous youth group calling itself “GenZ 212” using online platforms such as TikTok, Instagram, and the gaming app Discord.

    The GenZ 212 group has denounced violence and called for new, peaceful protests in major cities.

    “We urge all participants to remain disciplined and ensure the peaceful nature of our actions,” the group said in a statement on Discord.

    Authorities have vowed to crack down on those participating in looting or vandalism. Rioters could face 20 years to life in jail, Ouali Alami, a senior official at the public prosecutor’s office, told state news agency MAP.

    Organisers plan to hold protests on Thursday evening in major cities. But some of the most violent clashes have occurred in smaller towns and cities where the group had not announced planned protests.

    The GenZ 212 movement is inspired by similar youth-led protests in Asia and Latin America. Membership in GenZ 212’s Discord server surged from around 3,000 last week to more than 150,000 on Thursday.

    Seventy percent of participants in acts of vandalism and clashes with security forces across Morocco have been minors, a spokesperson for the Interior Ministry said.By Thursday, the number of people injured had risen to 640, including 589 members of the security forces, the ministry said. It said 413 law enforcement vehicles and 195 private cars had been damaged.

    “Adults have been placed in police custody, while minors have been held under protective measures,” the interior ministry spokesman said. “Authorities will take all necessary legal measures, without hesitation or leniency, against anyone proven to be involved in acts criminalised by law.”

    The escalating violence appears to have undermined popular support for the protest movement.

    “I used to support their demands for education and health…but after I saw this fire, I am wondering how can this serve their demands?” said Fatima, 54, outside a bank that had been torched in a densely populated area in Sale, near Rabat.

    (Reporting by Ahmed Eljechtimi, Editing by Peter Graff)

    Copyright 2025 Thomson Reuters.

    Photos You Should See – Sept. 2025

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  • Morocco Squashes Youth-Led Protesters Over Health, Education

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    RABAT (Reuters) -A heavy security presence on Monday evening thwarted for a straight third day youth-led protests across several Moroccan cities, where demonstrators have sought to rally for improvements to the public health and education systems.

    The protests were organized online by a loosely formed anonymous youth group calling itself “GenZ 212,” using platforms including TikTok, Instagram and gaming application Discord.

    The government and judicial authorities have not yet communicated on the incidents and arrests and the interior ministry did not immediately respond to a Reuters request for comment.

    On Monday evening, dozens were arrested as authorities prevented the group from holding protests in cities including Rabat, Casablanca, Agadir, Tangier and Oujda.

    In Rabat, a Reuters witness saw plainclothes officers arresting young protesters as they tried to chant slogans or speak to the press.

    The president of a child protection association, Najat Anouar, was arrested as she was speaking to media and released two hours later.

    “I came here to investigate allegations that the under-age have been arrested and got arrested myself,” she told Reuters.

    One group of protesters in downtown Rabat briefly managed to shout “freedom, dignity, and social justice”, a slogan echoing the 2011 demonstrations that prompted a constitutional reform devolving more powers from the Moroccan monarchy to the elected government.

    “We want a better health system and accountability,” said Brahim, 25, moments before fleeing as police sought to prevent people joining the protest.

    On Sunday night in Casablanca, protesters briefly blocked a major highway, while in Agadir, videos circulating on social media showed police dispersing students near the university campus.

    The recent wave of youth anger was sparked by earlier protests in Agadir over poor hospital conditions, which quickly spread to other cities.

    Demonstrators have denounced inadequate care, understaffed facilities, and a lack of medical resources.

    Morocco’s unemployment rate stands at 12.8%, with youth unemployment reaching 35.8% and 19% among graduates, according to the national statistics agency.

    (Reporting by Ahmed Eljechtimi; Editing by Lincoln Feast.)

    Copyright 2025 Thomson Reuters.

    Photos You Should See – Sept. 2025

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  • Today in Chicago History: The ‘L’ extension to O’Hare International Airport is opened

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    Here’s a look back at what happened in the Chicago area on Sept. 3, according to the Tribune’s archives.

    Is an important event missing from this date? Email us.

    Weather records (from the National Weather Service, Chicago)

    • High temperature: 97 degrees (1953)
    • Low temperature: 47 degrees (1974)
    • Precipitation: 1.92 inches (1961)
    • Snowfall: None
    Charles Dvorak pole vaults at the 1904 Summer Olympics in St. Louis. (Missouri Historical Society)

    1904: Chicago Athletic Association’s Charles Dvorak traveled to France for the 1900 Summer Olympics — but failed to win a gold medal. The pole vault competition, as he understood it, was supposed to take place on a Sunday.

    Vintage Chicago Tribune: Summer Olympians from the area who won gold

    Since this would have violated the Sabbath, he was told the event would be rescheduled. According to the University of Michigan, however, the event took place after Dvorak and other American athletes left the competition area. Dvorak was awarded a silver medal in a consolation competition that was held to accommodate the U.S. team.

    He returned to Olympic competition in St. Louis four years later, posting an Olympic record 11 feet, 6 inches to take home the gold. Dvorak, according to the Olympic Games, was the first vaulter to use a lighter bamboo pole instead of the heavier ash or hickory pole.

    After he took off with more than $1 million, Milwaukee Avenue Bank president Paul Stensland was discovered by the Tribune in Tangier, Morocco in Sept. 1906. Stensland was brought back to Chicago where he pleaded guilty to taking the money and served time in the penitentiary at Joliet. (Chicago Tribune)
    After he took off with more than $1 million, Milwaukee Avenue Bank president Paul Stensland was discovered by the Tribune in Tangier, Morocco, in September 1906. Stensland was brought back to Chicago where he pleaded guilty to taking the money and served time in the penitentiary at Joliet. (Chicago Tribune)

    1906: Fugitive Chicago bank president Paul Stensland — who fled the city with more than $1 million — was tracked down in Tangier, Morocco, by the Tribune, which persuaded him to surrender and tell his story. The Tribune’s managing editor, James Keeley, was later presented with the $5,000 reward for the arrest and delivery of Stensland to police. Keeley gave the reward to the Milwaukee Avenue State Bank, from which Stensland took the funds.

    Stensland pleaded guilty and was sent to Joliet penitentiary.

    Chicago Cubs player Billy Williams doffs his cap to the Wrigley Field fans after receiving a trophy marking his 896th consecutive game, a National league record on June 29, 1969. (John Austad/Chicago Tribune)
    Chicago Cubs player Billy Williams doffs his cap to the Wrigley Field fans after receiving a trophy marking his 896th consecutive game, a National League record, on June 29, 1969. (John Austad/Chicago Tribune)

    1970: Chicago Cubs Hall of Famer Billy Williams ended a streak of playing in 1,117 consecutive games. The left fielder sat out while the Cubs beat the Philadelphia Phillies 7-2.

    Members of the Chicago Teachers Union vote on whether to strike at Dunbar Vocational High School, 3000 S. King Drive on the morning of Sept. 2, 1975. (Roy Hal/Chicago Tribune)
    Members of the Chicago Teachers Union vote on whether to strike at Dunbar Vocational High School on Sept. 2, 1975. (Roy Hal/Chicago Tribune)

    1975: Chicago Teachers Union members voted by a nearly 9-to-1 margin to strike on Sept. 3, 1975, which was supposed to be the first day of the school year. Union President Robert M. Healey said the issues were a complete contract for the 1975-76 school year, smaller class sizes, a cost-of-living pay raise and an improved fringe benefits package.

    102 days on strike: Take a look back at Chicago’s 11 teacher strikes since 1969

    How it was resolved: The Board of Education agreed on Sept. 17, 1975, to a new contract giving CTU a 7.1% salary increase, smaller class sizes, improved insurance benefits and restoration of 1,525 teaching positions that had been cut.

    The agreement for the 1975-76 school year, in which Mayor Richard J. Daley played a behind-the-scenes role as a mediator, cost $79.6 million. Of that, $68.8 million went to employees represented by the CTU and $10.8 million to others.

    A flag-waving Mayor Harold Washington joins Chicago Transit Authority Chairman Michael Cardilli and Gov. James Thompson at ceremonies inaugurating the final leg of the CTA's rapid transit line extension to Chicago's O'Hare International Airport on Sept. 3, 1984. (John Dziekan/Chicago Tribune)
    A flag-waving Mayor Harold Washington joins Chicago Transit Authority Chairman Michael Cardilli and Gov. James Thompson, right, at ceremonies inaugurating the final leg of the CTA’s rapid transit line extension to Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport on Sept. 3, 1984. (John Dziekan/Chicago Tribune)

    1984: Chicago Transit Authority trains were extended to O’Hare International Airport. At 90 cents for a one-way trip, the “L” was “a much better deal than a taxi or special shuttle bus,” the Tribune reported.

    Want more vintage Chicago?

    Subscribe to the free Vintage Chicago Tribune newsletter, join our Chicagoland history Facebook group, stay current with Today in Chicago History and follow us on Instagram for more from Chicago’s past.

    Have an idea for Vintage Chicago Tribune? Share it with Kori Rumore and Marianne Mather at krumore@chicagotribune.com and mmather@chicagotribune.com

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  • Thinking of traveling solo? Tracee Ellis Ross has suggestions on how to do it well

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    Tracee Ellis Ross, the actor best-known for her roles in shows like “black-ish” and “Girlfriends,” happens to be single and without children, but she doesn’t let either hold her back from experiencing a fulfilling, joyful life, especially when it comes to vacations.

    When friends and family can’t join her, or if she just wants to decompress, Ross will jet-set by herself and have a fabulous time doing it. She says she takes at least one solo trip a year, and if vacationing with others, might stay a little longer to include alone time.

    In a new three-part docuseries streaming on The Roku Channel, “Solo Traveling with Tracee Ellis Ross,” a camera crew follows the actor on solo trips to Marrakech, Morocco; Cancún, Mexico; and Marbella, Spain.

    Ross says her first solo travel experience was in her 20s, and she’s learned over the years that even the uncomfortable moments of being by herself have given her coping skills for everyday life.

    “What I find is that I gain a muscle strength around being uncomfortable,” she told The Associated Press in a recent interview. “It’s like when a baseball player swings with two bats, and then by the time they get to the one bat, it feels lighter. When you get back into your regular day life and uncomfortable things happen, I have muscle memory to know how to walk through this on my own.”

    Ross shared tips to traveling as a party of one:

    Ease into it

    “Start by going to dinner by yourself,” Ross says. “And if you feel nervous about doing that, go to dinner by yourself on a Tuesday night at 6 o’clock and work your way up to going to dinner by yourself on a Saturday or Friday night at 8 o’clock.

    “Walk up to the host and say, ‘I need a table for one.’ See what it feels like to be in that experience because it will only be that times 10 on vacation.”

    She suggests bringing something like a book or an iPad when you’re eating alone, and also for when you’re spending time in your room.

    That way, “if you end up having to stay in your hotel room the whole time and only going to a restaurant in your hotel or somewhere just around the corner, you don’t feel like you have ruined your trip and done something stupid.”

    Know why you’re taking the trip

    Ross says there are different reasons for solo trips and you need to understand what yours is.

    “Are you going on a solo trip because you’re single and want to meet other people? Are you going on a solo trip because your life is overwhelmed with your children, your dogs, your cats, your job, your life, your survival, all the things, and you’re going to have a moment to sort of recharge and get away by yourself? Or are you going for an adventure?” she asks.

    Once you’ve decided what kind of experience you’re seeking, you can make plans to achieve it realistically and safely.

    Safety, safety, safety

    No matter how independent you are, certain kinds of travelers are more vulnerable than others, especially if they’re by themselves, Ross notes. Take safety seriously when mapping out your itinerary.

    “You might not feel vulnerable, but depending on where you’re going, it might leave you vulnerable. That’s a very specific distinction and something to plan for in order to have a good experience,” she says.

    “If you are a Black woman, if you are a woman, if you are LGBTQIA, if you are non-binary, if you are differently abled — that might leave you vulnerable in a foreign place. Make sure you do the best diligence you can to make sure you’re going somewhere that can create a sense of safety for you with whatever those vulnerabilities,” she says.

    Ross prefers to travel to destinations with resorts where she can feel safe on her own. “It allows me to not have to adventure off property,” she said. And she returns to places where she’s found comfort “all the time.”

    Research many other parts of the trip too

    Ross says she’s a planner by nature and does a lot of research online. She also asks around for info about best navigating the experience from beginning to end.

    She likes to know whether particular airports are busy and what to expect when she gets there. If it’s a big airport and there’s a lot of walking, she makes sure she has comfortable shoes. She also will pack a personal fan if it’s going to be hot.

    Knowing what to expect won’t just lead to feeling prepared and comfortable in general but feeling prepared and comfortable by yourself.

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  • Jeff Nichols To Mentor Emerging Arab & African Directors At Marrakech’s Atlas Workshops + Project Line-Up

    Jeff Nichols To Mentor Emerging Arab & African Directors At Marrakech’s Atlas Workshops + Project Line-Up

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    U.S. director Jeff Nichols has been named as the 2024 patron of the Marrakech International Film Festival’s Atlas Workshops, as the talent and project incubator also unveils the projects selected for this year’s edition.

    Launched in 2018, the initiative has supported a raft of emerging and more established filmmakers and their projects, hailing from Morocco, the Arab world, and Africa.

    Nichols – whose filmography includes 2011 Cannes Critics’ Week winner Take Shelter, Cannes Palme d’Or contenders Mud (2012) and Loving (2016) as well as more recent credit The Bikeriders – is the second announced patron.

    The role was created last year, with Martin Scorsese due to kick off the inaugural patronship, but he was forced to cancel his Marrakech trip for personal reasons at the eleventh hour.

    Nichols will take part in a number of sessions with selected projects in development and post-production. This year’s cohort of filmmakers will be known as the Class of Jeff Nichols.

    “I’m thrilled to visit this incredible festival for the first time. Accepting the position as Patron to this year’s Atlas Workshops is an honor, and I consider myself lucky to have the opportunity to share in the journey these filmmakers are on,” said the director.

    “Interacting with other filmmakers is always an inspiration to me, and I hope my involvement helps them on their path to getting their films out into the world.”

    Project details

    This year’s Atlas Workshops will host 17 projects in development and 10 films in production or post-production from 13 countries, selected from 320 applications received from across the African continent and the Arab world.

    Chronicles From A Siege Era

    Evidence Films

    Highlights in development include Alicante, the first fiction feature from French-Palestinian-Algerian director Lina Soualem after her award-winning documentary Bye Bye Tiberias.  From Morocco, Talal Selhami will unveil The Shelter, his third film after the buzzy horror Achoura and fantasy thriller Mirages.

    First feature films in development include The Source by Mouloud Ouyahia, whose short film The House is on Fire, Might as Well Get Warm was presented in Cannes Directors’ Fortnight in 2023, and multidisciplinary artist Nuno Miranda, who explores the beautiful meeting of two soulmates amid mourning and exile in Flowers of the Dead.

    Films in production or post-production include In the Shadows of Good Fortune by Nigerian director Babatunde Apalowo, whose All the Colours of the World Are Between Black and White played in the Berlinale’s Panorama line-up in 2023.

    The selection will also unveil first looks for Cherien Dabis’s All That’s Left of You (Palestine); Marwan Hamed’s El Sett (Egypt), his eagerly awaited biopic of legendary diva Umm Kulthum; and Tarzan & Arab Nasser’s Once Upon a Time in Gaza (Palestine).

    The Atlas Workshops will unveil the first images of two films that participated in previous editions while in development: Zamo Mkhwanazi’s Laundry (South Africa) and Meryem Benm’Barek’s Behind the Palm Trees (Morocco), which were selected for the platform in 2018 and 2022 respectively.

    Running from December 1 to 5 inclusive, the seventh edition is one day longer than previous years.

    Project line-up for the seventh Atlas Workshops (* denotes first film)

    Projects in Development
    Alicante,  Lina Soualem (Algeria)
    The Beastly One, Walid Messnaoui (Morocco) *
    Flowers of the Dead, Nuno Miranda (Cape Verde) *
    Ici Repose, Moly Kane (Senegal) *
    Lucky Girl, Linda Lô (Senegal) *
    The Orange Grove, Murad Abu Eisheh (Jordan) *
    Princesse Téné, Fabien Dao (Burkina Faso) *
    Pure Madness (Pure Folie), Inès Arsi (Tunisia) | Doc *
    Samir, The Accidental Spy, – Charlotte Rabate (Syria) *
    The Shelter, Talal Selhami (Morocco)
    The Source,  Mouloud Ouyahia (Algeria) *
    Your Turn, 2023, Cynthia Sawma (Lebanon) *

    Atlas Close-ups (Moroccan projects in development)
    And Still I Rise, Djanis Bouzyani, doc *
    Dar Marjana, Lamia lazrak, doc *
    Fatwa, Mohamed el Badaoui
    The Field, Mohamed Bouhari *
    The Nours– Yassine Iguenfer *

    Films in Production or Post-production
    Aisha Can’t Fly Away, Morad Mostafa (Egypt) *
    All That’s Left Of You, Cherien Dabis (Palestine)
    Bardi, Tala Hadid (Morocco)
    Behind The Palm Trees, Meryem Benm’barek (Morocco)
    Chronicles From A Siege Era, Abdallah Al-Khatib (Palestine, Syria)
    In The Shadows Of Good Fortune, Babatunde Apalowo (Nigeria) –
    It’s A Sad and Beautiful World, Cyril Aris (Lebanon)
    Laundry, Zamo Mkhwanazi (South Africa) *
    Once Upon A Time In Gaza, Tarzan & Arab Nasser (Palestine)

    Atlas Film Showcase (film in final stages of editing and seeking a festival premiere)
    El Sett, Marwan Hamed (Egypt)

    Selected Moroccan Professionals at Atlas Station
    Youssef Amar, Producer
    Khaoula Assebab, Director and Producer
    Zineb Chafchaouni Moussaoui, Director
    Meriame Essadak, Producer
    Aymane Hammou, Director and Producer
    Hicham Harrag, Director and Producer
    Samir Harrag, Director and Producer
    Safae Lahgazi Alaoui, Director
    Jabrane Lakhssassi, Director and Producer
    Basma Rkioui,  Director and Producer

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    Melanie Goodfellow

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  • Spain Train Bombings Fast Facts | CNN

    Spain Train Bombings Fast Facts | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    Here’s a look at the March 2004 bombings of commuter trains in Spain, which killed 193 people and injured more than 1,800. The bombings are the deadliest terrorist attack in Spain’s history.

    On March 11, 2004, 10 bombs in backpacks and other small bags exploded on four commuter trains. One bomb did not explode and was defused. The police did controlled explosions of three other bombs.

    ETA, a Basque group labeled a terrorist organization by the United States and the European Union, and al Qaeda were the original suspects cited by the Spanish government.

    Through anonymous phone calls to Basque media outlets, ETA vehemently denied involvement.

    Islamic militants who were based in Spain but inspired by al Qaeda were designated later as the prime suspects.

    March 11, 2004 – Coordinated attacks including 10 bombs on four commuter trains at three different stations kill 191 people and wound more than 1,800.

    March 13, 2004 – An al Qaeda claim of responsibility is made via video tape by a man speaking in Arabic with a Moroccan accent.

    March 13, 2004 – Five people are arrested in connection to the case 60 hours after the bombings. Three of those arrested are Moroccans, and two are Indian. Prepaid phone cards and a cell phone from backpacks found at the bombing site link the five to the investigation.

    March 14, 2004 – The Spanish Interior Ministry releases the names of five people detained in connection with the attacks. The men are identified as Jamal Zougam, Mohamed Bekkali, Mohamed Cahoui, Vinay Kohly and Sureh Komar.

    March 18, 2004 – Spanish authorities arrest four North Africans in connection with the bombings. The radio report says three were arrested in the Madrid suburb of Alcala de Henares and the other North African was arrested in northern Spain. They are: Abderrahim Zbakh, Farid Oulad Ali and Mohamed El Hadi Chedadi, whose brother, Said Chedadi, was indicted last September by a Spanish judge for links to al Qaeda.
    – The fourth suspect is not identified but is described as being of Arab descent.
    – The fifth suspect is a Spanish citizen who goes by the name of Jose Emilio Suarez Trashorras. He is arrested in northern Spain.

    March 19, 2004 – Spain’s National Court charges five suspects in connection with the bombings and remands them into custody after an all-night court session. The Court also releases Ali Amrous, an Algerian man held in connection with the Madrid terror attacks and suspected of being an al Qaeda member.

    March 22, 2004 – Spanish state radio reports four new arrests in the Madrid bombings.

    March 24, 2004 – A Spanish judge charges two more suspects, Naima Oulad and Rafa Zouhier, in the train bombings, bringing the total number of people charged in the attacks to 11.

    March 25, 2004 – A Spanish judge charges a Moroccan man, Faisal Alluch, with collaborating with a terrorist group in connection with the train bombings, boosting the number to 12 suspects who have been charged in the case.

    March 30, 2004 – Spanish Interior Minister Angel Acebes names a Moroccan terrorist group, Moroccan Islamist Combat Group (GICM), as the principal focus in the investigation.

    March 30, 2004 – Moroccan Fouad El Morabit, who had been released without charges, is rearrested. Court sources also confirm the latest arrest in the case, a man identified as Otman el Gnaout.

    March 30, 2004 – Basel Ghayoun, a Syrian man, is charged in the bombings. Hamid Ahmidan of Morocco is charged with collaborating with a terrorist group and a count of drug possession. Three other men are released.

    March 31, 2004 – A Spanish National Court judge issues international arrest warrants for six more suspects as the investigation focuses on the GICM. The Interior Ministry says five of the men sought are Moroccans. They include two brothers and a man who is related to other Moroccans previously arrested. The sixth man sought is Tunisian.

    March 31, 2004 – Arraignments begin for two men, Antonio Toro Castro of Spain and Mustafa Ahmidam from Morocco.

    April 2, 2004 – A bomb found under high-speed rail tracks between Madrid and Seville appears to be made of the same explosives used in the March 11 attacks.

    April 2, 2004 – A Spanish judge releases without charges two Syrian men who had been detained in connection with the March 11 Madrid train bombings. He also frees a Moroccan man but orders him to report daily to police until further notice.

    April 3, 2004 – Seven suspected terrorists kill themselves and a policeman when they set off an explosion in a suburb of Madrid as police attempt to enter a building. The suspects are presumed to be involved in the train bombings. Fingerprints at the scene later result in more arrests, including Saswan Sabagh.

    April 3, 2004 – Spanish authorities arrest two more people but the identities of the two are not released.

    April 7, 2004 – A National Court judge charges two more Moroccan suspects, Abdelilah El Fuad and Rachid Adli, in the March 11 Madrid train bombings.

    April 12, 2004 – Spanish police arrest three more suspects. One of the three was identified as Morabit, who has now been detained three times. The other two are not identified.

    May 6, 2004 – Brandon Mayfield, an American attorney, is taken into custody by the FBI in connection with the attacks. His fingerprints were found on a bag containing detonators of the kind used in the attacks, in close proximity to the blast site. The Spanish Interior Ministry spokesman said the plastic bag was found inside a stolen van left near the Alcala train station, from which the three bombed trains departed. US sources are calling him a material witness, not formally charging him with a crime as of yet, and state that he is a follower of Islam.

    November 2004 – Spanish lawmakers launch an inquiry into the train bombings.

    January 2005 – Spain’s interior minister says Spanish officials have made 66 arrests in the train bombing investigation.

    April 11, 2006 – Twenty-nine people are indicted in a Spanish court in connection with the bombings. Five men are charged with planning and carrying out the plot, and a sixth is named as a “necessary collaborator.” The rest are charged with supporting roles.

    February 15, 2007 – Start date of trial for 29 defendants. Seven defendants are considered prime suspects, and they each could face sentences of about 38,000 years in prison for mass murder, if convicted.

    March 11, 2007 – For the third anniversary of the bombing, King Juan Carlos and Queen Sophia dedicate a memorial for the victims at the Atocha station. It is a glass cylinder which opens into a meditation chamber.

    June 4, 2007 – One of the 29 defendants in the Madrid train bombings trial, Brahim Moussaten, has been cleared of all charges and is now a free man, a court spokeswoman tells CNN.

    October 31, 2007 – Verdicts are read for the remaining 28 defendants. Three men are found guilty of the most serious charges and sentenced to thousands of years in prison. However, under Spanish law, they will serve only 40 years. Eighteen defendants are found guilty of lesser charges. Seven defendants are acquitted, including alleged mastermind Rabei Osman.

    July 17, 2008 – Four defendants, Basel Ghalyoun, Mouhannad Almallah Dabas, Abdelilah el-Fadual al-Akil and Raúl González, have their convictions overturned. The acquittal of Osman is also upheld.

    December 18, 2008 – A criminal court in Morocco convicts Abdelilah Ahriz of belonging to a terrorist group involved in the train bombings and sentences him to 20 years in prison. Prosecutors originally requested that Ahriz be given a life sentence, saying DNA sampling proved his involvement in preparing the train bombings.

    May 12, 2009 – Ten of the 14 suspected Islamic militants accused of assisting the three suspects are acquitted by Spain’s anti-terrorism court. The ruling gives the remaining four sentences between two and nine years for falsifying documents or being part of a terrorist group.

    January 13, 2010 – A Spanish court convicts five men accused of Islamic terrorist activities, including aiding fugitives from the Madrid train bombings of 2004 and planning other attacks. Their sentences, on charges of collaborating or belonging to an Islamic terrorist group, range from five to nine years in prison.

    February 2011 – Spain’s Supreme Court overturns the lower court’s conviction of the five men convicted in January 2010 for Islamic terrorist activities that included aiding fugitives from the Madrid train bombings and planning other attacks.

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  • 50 of the world’s best breads | CNN

    50 of the world’s best breads | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    What is bread? You likely don’t have to think for long, and whether you’re hungry for a slice of sourdough or craving some tortillas, what you imagine says a lot about where you’re from.

    But if bread is easy to picture, it’s hard to define.

    Bread historian William Rubel argues that creating a strict definition of bread is unnecessary, even counterproductive. “Bread is basically what your culture says it is,” says Rubel, the author of “Bread: A Global History.” “It doesn’t need to be made with any particular kind of flour.”

    Instead, he likes to focus on what bread does: It turns staple grains such as wheat, rye or corn into durable foods that can be carried into the fields, used to feed an army or stored for winter.

    Even before the first agricultural societies formed around 10,000 BCE, hunter-gatherers in Jordan’s Black Desert made bread with tubers and domesticated grain.

    Today, the descendants of those early breads showcase the remarkable breadth of our world’s food traditions.

    In the rugged mountains of Germany’s Westphalia region, bakers steam loaves of dense rye for up to 24 hours, while a round of Armenian lavash made from wheat turns blistered and brown after 30 seconds inside a tandoor oven.

    Ethiopian cooks ferment injera’s ground-teff batter into a tart, bubbling brew, while the corn dough for Venezuelan arepas is patted straight onto a sizzling griddle.

    This list reflects that diversity. Along with memorable flavor, these breads are chosen for their unique ingredients, iconic status and the sheer, homey pleasure of eating them.

    From the rich layers of Malaysian roti canai to Turkey’s seed-crusted simit, they’re a journey through the essence of global comfort food – and a reminder that creativity, like bread, is a human inheritance.

    In alphabetical order by location, here are 50 of the world’s most wonderful breads.

    Golden blisters of crisp dough speckle a perfectly made bolani, but the real treasure of Afghanistan’s favorite flatbread is hidden inside.

    After rolling out the yeast-leavened dough into a thin sheet, Afghan bakers layer bolani with a generous filling of potatoes, spinach or lentils. Fresh herbs and scallions add bright flavor to the chewy, comforting dish, which gets a crispy crust when it’s fried in shimmering-hot oil.

    02 best breads travel

    When your Armenian mother-in-law comes towards you wielding a hula hoop-sized flatbread, don’t duck: Lavash is draped over the country’s newlyweds to ensure a life of abundance and prosperity.

    Maybe that’s because making lavash takes friends.

    To shape the traditional breads, groups of women gather to roll and stretch dough across a cushion padded with hay or wool. It takes a practiced hand to slap the enormous sheets onto the inside of conical clay ovens, where they bake quickly in the intense heat.

    The bread is so central to Armenia’s culture it’s been designated UNESCO Intangible Heritage.

    03 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    A traveler’s staple suited to life on the road, damper recalls Australia’s frontier days.

    It’s a simple blend of water, flour and salt that can be cooked directly in the ashes, pressed into a cast iron pan or even toasted at the end of a stick. These days, recipes often include some chemical leavening, butter and milk, turning the hearty backwoods fare into a more refined treat similar to Irish soda bread.

    04 best breads travel

    A dunk in hot oil turns soft wheat dough into a blistered, golden flatbread that’s a perfect pairing with the country’s aromatic curries.

    It’s a popular choice for breakfast in Bangladesh, often served with white potato curry, but you can find the puffy breads everywhere from Dhaka sidewalk stalls to home kitchens.

    05 best breads travel

    It’s a triumph of kitchen ingenuity that South America’s native cassava is eaten at all: The starchy root has enough naturally occurring cyanide to kill a human being.

    But by carefully treating cassava with a cycle of soaking, pressing and drying, many of the continent’s indigenous groups found a way to turn the root into an unlikely culinary star. Now, it’s the base for one of Brazil’s most snackable treats, a cheesy bread roll whose crisp crust gives way to a tender, lightly sour interior.

    06 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    The fire is always lit at Montreal’s Fairmount Bagel, which became the city’s first bagel bakery when it opened in 1919 under the name Montreal Bagel Bakery.

    Inside, bakers use long, slender wooden paddles to slide rows of bagels into the wood-fired oven, where they toast to a deep golden color.

    New Yorkers might think they have a monopoly on bagels, but the Montreal version is an entirely different delicacy.

    Here, bagel dough is mixed with egg and honey, and the hand-shaped rings are boiled in honey water before baking. The result is dense, chewy and lightly sweet, and you can buy them hot from the oven 24 hours a day.

    07 best breads travel

    An influx of European immigrants brought their wheat-bread traditions to Chile in the 19th and early 20th centuries, and the country’s favorite snack has descended from that cultural collision.

    Split into four lobes, the marraqueta has a pale, fluffy interior, but the ubiquitous roll is all about the crust. Bakers slide a pan of water into the oven to achieve an addictively crispy exterior that is a favorite part of the marraqueta for many Chileans.

    It’s a nourishing part of daily life, to the extent that when a Chilean wants to describe a child born to a life of plenty, they might say “nació con la marraqueta bajo el brazo,” or “they were born with a marraqueta under their arm.”

    08 best breads travel

    Crack into the sesame-seed crust of a shaobing to reveal tender layers that are rich with wheat flavor.

    Expert shaobing bakers whirl and slap the dough so thin that the finished product has 18 or more layers. The north Chinese flatbread can then be spiked with sweet or savory fillings, from black sesame paste to smoked meat or Sichuan pepper.

    09 best breads travel

    Melted lard lends a hint of savory flavor to loaves of pan Cubano, whose fluffy crumb offers a tender contrast to the crisp, cracker-like crust.

    Duck into a Cuban bakery, and you’ll likely spot the long, golden loaf with a pale seam down the center: Some bakers press a stripped palmetto leaf into the dough before baking to create a distinctive crack along the length of the bread.

    It’s popular from Havana to Miami, but it’s only stateside that you’ll find the loaves in “Cuban sandwiches,” which are thought to have been invented during the 19th century by Cubans living in Florida.

    10 best breads travel

    Bedouin tribes travel light in Egypt’s vast deserts, carrying sacks of wheat flour to make each day’s bread in the campfire.

    While some Bedouin breads are baked on hot metal sheets, libba is slapped directly into the embers. That powerful heat sears a crisp, browned crust onto the soft dough, leaving the inside steaming and moist.

    50 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Walk the streets of San Salvador, and you’ll never be far from the toasted-corn scent of cooking pupusas.

    The griddled corn bread is both a beloved snack and a national icon.

    To make pupusas, a cook wraps a filling of cheese, pork or spiced beans into tender corn dough, then pats the mixture onto a blazing-hot griddle. A bright topping of slaw-like curtido cuts through the fat and salt for a satisfying meal.

    It’s a flavor that’s endured through the centuries. At the UNESCO-listed site of Joya de Cerén, a Maya city buried by an erupting volcano, archaeologists have found cooking tools like those used to make pupusas that date to around 600 A.D.

    11 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    A constellation of bubbles pocks injera’s spongy surface, making this Ethiopian bread the perfect foil for the country’s rich sauces and stews.

    Also beloved in neighboring Eritrea and Somalia, injera is both a mealtime staple and the ultimate utensil – tear off tender pieces of moist, rolled-up bread to scoop food served on a communal platter.

    Made from an ancient – and ultra-nutritious – grain called teff, injera has a characteristically sour taste. It’s the result of a fermentation process that starts by blending fresh batter with cultures from a previous batch, then leaving the mixture to grow more flavorful over several days.

    12 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    The French may frown on eating on the go, but there’s an unofficial exception for “le quignon,” the crisp-baked end of a slender baguette.

    You’re allowed to break that off and munch it as you walk down the street – perhaps because the baguette has pride of place as a symbol of French culture.

    But like some of the greatest traditions, the baguette is a relatively recent invention.

    According to Paris food historian Jim Chevallier, long, narrow breads similar to modern baguettes gained prominence in the 19th century, and the first official mention is in a 1920 price list. (French President Emmanuel Macron nonetheless argues that the baguette deserves UNESCO status.)

    13 best breads travel

    Bubbling with fresh imeruli and sulguni cheeses, khachapuri might be the country of Georgia’s most beloved snack.

    The savory flatbread starts with soft, yeasted dough that’s pinched into a boat-shaped cradle, then baked with a generous filling of egg and cheese. An elongated shape maximizes the contrast in texture, from the tender interior to crisp, brown tips. Khachapuri experts know to break off the ends for swabbing in the rich, oozing filling.

    It’s such a key feature of Georgian cuisine that the Khachapuri Index is one measure of the country’s economic welfare; and in 2019, the country’s National Agency for Cultural Heritage Preservation named traditional khachapuri as UNESCO Intangible Heritage of Georgia.

    14 best breads travel

    Pure rye flour lends these iconic north German loaves impressive heft, along with a distinctive, mahogany hue.

    The most traditional versions are baked in a warm, steamy oven for up to 24 hours. It’s an unusual technique that helps transform sugars in the rye flour, turning naturally occurring sweetness into depth of flavor.

    Pumpernickel has been a specialty in Germany’s Westphalia region for hundreds of years, and there’s even a family-owned bakery in the town of Soest that’s made the hearty bread using the same recipe since 1570.

    15 best breads travel

    Hong Kong bakers outdo each other by crafting the softest, fluffiest breads imaginable, turning wheat flour into pillowy confections.

    Pai bao might be loftier than all the rest, thanks to a technique known as the Tangzhong method.

    When mixing the wheat dough, bakers add a small amount of cooked flour and water to the rest of the ingredients, a minor change with major impact on the bread’s structural development. The results? A wonderfully tender loaf that retains moisture for days, with a milky flavor that invites snacking out of hand.

    Dökkt rúgbrauð, Iceland

    16 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    The simmering, geothermal heat that powers Iceland’s geysers, hot springs and steam vents also provides a natural oven for this slow-baked Icelandic rye bread.

    Made with dark rye flour, the dough is enclosed in a metal pot before it’s buried in the warm ground near geothermal springs and other hotspots. When baked in the traditional method, dökkt rúgbrauð takes a full 24 hours to cook in the subterranean “oven.”

    It’s an ingenious use of an explosive natural resource, and in the hot-springs town of Laugarvatn, visitors can try loaves of dökkt rúgbrauð when it’s fresh from a hole in the black sand.

    17 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Flatbreads go wonderfully flaky in this whole-wheat Indian treat, which can be eaten plain or studded with savory fillings.

    Folding and rolling the dough over thinly spread fat creates sumptuous layers that are rich with flavor, employing a technique similar to that used for croissants or puff pastry.

    Stuffed wheat bread has been made in India for hundreds of years, and several varieties even get a shout-out in the “Manasollasa,” a 12th-century Sanskrit text that contains some of the earliest written descriptions of the region’s food.

    18 best breads travel

    Palm sugar and cinnamon lend a light, aromatic sweetness to roti gambang, a tender wheat bread that’s an old-fashioned favorite at Jakarta bakeries.

    The name evokes the gambang, a traditional Indonesian instrument with a resemblance to the slender, brown loaves.

    For the recipe, though, cooks look back to the colonial era: From spiced holiday cookies to cheese sticks topped with Gouda or Edam, Indonesian baking has adapted Dutch ingredients and techniques to local tastes.

    19 best breads travel

    It takes a pair of deft bakers to craft this addictive Iranian flatbread, which is cooked directly on a bed of hot pebbles.

    That blazing-hot surface pocks the wheat dough with golden blisters, and it gives sangak – also known as nan-e sangak – a characteristic chewiness.

    If you’re lucky enough to taste sangak hot from the oven, enjoy a heavenly contrast of crisp crust and tender crumb. Eat the flatbread on its own, or turn it into an Iranian-style breakfast: Use a piece of sangak to wrap salty cheese and a bundle of aromatic green herbs.

    Soda bread, Ireland

    20 best breads travel

    You don’t need yeast to get lofty bread: Chemical leavening can add air through an explosive combination of acidic and basic ingredients. While Native Americans used refined potash to leaven griddled breads – an early example of chemical leavening – this version became popular during the lean years of the Irish Potato Famine.

    With potato crops failing, impoverished Irish people started mixing loaves using soft wheat flour, sour milk and baking soda.

    Now, dense loaves of soda bread are a nostalgic treat that’s a perfect pairing with salted Irish butter.

    21 best breads travel

    If you think challah is limited to pillowy, braided loaves, think again – traditionally, challah is any bread used in Jewish ritual.

    And Jewish bakers have long made breads as diverse as the diaspora itself: Think blistered flatbreads, hearty European loaves and Hungarian confections dotted with poppy seeds.

    Israel’s modern-day bakers draw on that rich heritage. But on Friday afternoons in Tel Aviv, you’ll still spot plenty of the classic Ashkenazi versions that many people in the United States know as challah.

    Those golden loaves are tender with eggs, and shiny under a generous glaze. It’s the braid, though, that catches the eye. By wrapping dough strands together, bakers create 12 distinctive mounds said to represent 12 loaves in the ancient Temple of Jerusalem.

    22 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Between an emphasis on “ancient grains” and centuries of floury traditions, it can seem like breadmaking is stuck in the past.

    But bread is continually evolving, and there’s no better example than this iconic Italian loaf, which was only invented in the 1980s.

    In 1982, Italian baker Arnaldo Cavallari created the low, chewy loaf in defiance of the baguette-style breads he saw taking over Roman bakeries.

    It was a watershed moment in the comeback of artisanal breads, which has roots in the 1960s and 1970s backlash against the increasingly industrialized food system.

    23 best breads travel

    Pan-fried cassava cakes are delicious comfort food in Jamaica, where rounds of bammy bread are a hearty pairing for the island’s ultra-fresh seafood.

    The traditional process for making bammy bread starts with processing grated cassava to get rid of naturally occurring cyanide; next, sifted cassava pulp is pressed into metal rings.

    It’s a recipe with ancient roots – cassava has been a staple in South America and the Caribbean since long before the arrival of Europeans here, and it’s believed that the native Arawak people used the root to make flatbreads as well.

    24 best breads travel

    Yeasted wheat dough makes a convenient package for Japanese curry, turning a sit-down meal into a snack that can be eaten out of hand.

    Kare pan, or curry bread, is rolled in panko before a dunk in the deep fryer, ensuring a crispy crust that provides maximum textural contrast with the soft, saucy interior.

    Kare pan is so beloved that there’s even a crime-fighting superhero named for the savory treat: A star of the anime series “Soreike! Anpanman,” Karepanman fights villains by shooting out a burning-hot curry filling.

    25 best breads travel

    Follow the aroma of baking bread in Amman, and you’ll find bakers in roadside stalls stacking this classic flatbread into steaming piles.

    When shaping taboon, bakers press rounds of soft, wheat dough over a convex form, then slap them onto the interior of a conical clay oven.

    What emerges is a chewy round that’s crackling with steam, wafting a rich smell of grain and smoke. It’s the ideal foil for a plate of Jordanian mouttabal, a roasted eggplant dip that’s blended with ground sesame seeds and yogurt.

    26 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Roti flatbread may have arrived in Malaysia with Indian immigrants, but the country’s made the flaky, rich bread their own.

    When cooked on a hot griddle, roti canai puffs into a stack of overlapping layers rich with buttery flavor. Irresistible when served with Malaysian dips and curries, roti canai becomes a meal all its own with the addition of stuffings from sweet, ripe bananas to fried eggs.

    27 best breads travel

    The tawny crust of Malta’s sourdough gives way to a pillow-soft interior, ideal for rubbing with a fresh tomato or soaking up the islands’ prized olive oils.

    Classic versions take more than a day to prepare, and were traditionally baked in shared, wood-fired ovens that served as community gathering places.

    Even now that few Maltese bake their own bread, Ħobż tal-Malti has a powerful symbolism for the Mediterranean island nation.

    When trying to discover someone’s true nature, a Maltese person might ask “x’ħobz jiekol dan?,” literally, “what kind of bread does he eat?”

    28 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Thin rounds of corn dough turn blistered and brown on a hot comal, the traditional griddles that have been used in Mexico since at least 700 BCE.

    Whether folded into a taco or eaten out of hand, corn tortillas are one of the country’s most universally loved foods. The ground-corn dough is deceptively simple; made from just a few ingredients, it’s nonetheless a triumph of culinary ingenuity.

    Before being ground, the corn is mixed with an alkaline ingredient such as lime, a process called nixtamalization that makes the grain more nutritious and easier to digest.

    29 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Follow the rich scent of baking bread through a Moroccan medina, and you may find yourself at one of the communal neighborhood ovens called ferran. This is where locals bring rounds of tender wheat dough ready to bake into khobz kesra, one of the country’s homiest breads.

    The low, rounded loaves have a slightly crisp exterior that earns them pride of place on the Moroccan table, where their fluffy texture is ideal for absorbing aromatic tajine sauce.

    30 best breads travel

    Golden, crisp rounds of fry bread are a taste of home for many in the Navajo Nation, as well as a reminder of a tragic history.

    When Navajo people were forced out of their Arizona lands by the US government in 1864, they resettled in New Mexican landscapes where growing traditional crops of beans and vegetables proved difficult.

    To survive, they used government-provided stores of white flour, lard and sugar, creating fry bread out of stark necessity.

    Now, fry bread is a symbol of perseverance and tradition, and a favorite treat everywhere from powwows to family gatherings.

    Tijgerbrood, Netherlands

    31 best breads travel

    Putting the “Dutch” in Dutch crunch, tijgerbrood is a crust-lover’s masterpiece in every crispy bite.

    To create the mottled top of tijgerbrood, bakers spread unbaked loaves of white bread with a soft mixture of rice flour, sesame oil, water and yeast.

    Heat transforms the exterior into a crispy pattern of snackable pieces, and loaves of tijgerbrood are beloved for sandwiches. (An ocean away from Amsterdam’s Old World bakeries, San Francisco has made Dutch crunch its sandwich bread of choice as well.)

    Rēwena parāoa, New Zealand

    32 best breads travel

    When European settlers brought potatoes and wheat to New Zealand, indigenous Maori people made the imported ingredients their own with this innovative bread.

    To mix the dough, potatoes are boiled then fermented into a sourdough-like starter that gives the finished bread a sweet-and-sour taste.

    Now, rēwena parāoa is a favorite treat when layered with butter and jam or served with a hearty portion of raw fish, a longtime delicacy for Maori people.

    33 best breads travel

    If you don’t think of northern Europe as flatbread country, you haven’t tasted lefse.

    The Norwegian potato flatbread is a favorite at holidays, when there are many hands to roll the soft dough with a grooved pin, then cook it on a hot griddle. For a taste of Norwegian comfort food, eat a warm lefse spiraled with butter, sugar and a dash of cinnamon.

    While potatoes are just an 18th-century addition to the Norwegian diet, Scandinavian flatbread is at least as old as the Vikings.

    Podplomyk, Poland

    34 best breads travel

    Slather a hot round of podplomyk with white cheese and fruit preserves for a taste of old-fashioned, Polish home cooking.

    The unyeasted flatbread is blistered brown. With ingredients limited to wheat flour, salt and water, podplomyk is a deliciously simple entry in the sprawling family tree of flatbreads.

    Since dough for podplomyk is rolled thin, it was traditionally baked before other loaves are ready for the oven. In the Middle Ages, the portable breads were shared with neighbors and household members as a sign of friendship. (Today, that tradition is carried on with the exchange of oplatek wafers at Christmastime.)

    35 best breads travel

    Corn and buckwheat are stone-milled, sifted and kneaded in a wooden trough for the most traditional version of this hearty peasant bread from northern Portugal.

    When the loaves are baked in wood-fired, stone ovens, an archipelago of floury crust shards expands over deep cracks. The ovens themselves are sealed with bread dough, which acts as a natural oven timer: The bread is ready when the dough strips turn toasty brown.

    Europeans didn’t taste corn until they arrived in the Americas, but it would be eagerly adopted in northern Portuguese regions where soil conditions are poorly suited to growing wheat.

    36 best breads travel

    Bread baking becomes art on Russian holidays, when golden loaves of karavai are decked in dough flowers, animals and swirls.

    The bread plays a starring role at weddings, with elaborate rules to govern the baking process: Traditionally, a happily married woman must mix the dough, and a married man slides the round loaf into the oven.

    Even the round shape has an ancient symbolism and is thought to date back to ancient sun worship. Now, it’s baked to ensure health and prosperity for a new couple.

    37 best breads travel

    Once part of the Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia, this mountainous island’s cuisine remains distinct from mainland Italy. Among the most iconic foods here is pane carasau, parchment-thin flatbread with a melodic nickname: carta de musica, or sheet music.

    While pane carasau starts like a classic flatbread, there’s a Sardinian twist that makes it an ideal traveling companion; after the flatbreads puff up in the oven, they’re sliced horizontally into two thinner pieces. Those pieces are baked a second time, drying out the bread enough to last for months.

    38 best breads travel

    Warm squares of Serbian proja, or cornbread, are a favorite accompaniment to the country’s lush meat stews.

    It’s a homey dish that’s often cooked fresh for family meals, then served hot from the oven. Ground corn offers a lightly sweet foil to salty toppings, from salty kajmak cheese to a scattering of cracklings.

    39 best breads travel

    There’s buried treasure within every loaf of gyeran-ppang, individually sized wheat breads with a whole egg baked inside.

    Translating simply to “egg bread,” gyeran-ppang is a favorite in the streets of Seoul, eaten hot for breakfast – or at any other time of day.

    The addition of ham, cheese and chopped parsley adds a savory twist to the sweet-and-salty treat, a belly-warming snack that keeps South Korea fueled through the country’s long winters.

    40 best breads travel

    A thin, fermented batter of rice flour and coconut milk turns crisp in the bowl-shaped pans used for cooking appam, one of Sri Lanka’s most ubiquitous treats.

    Often called hoppers, this whisper-thin pancake is best eaten hot – preferably while standing around a Colombo street food stall.

    Favorite toppings for appam in Sri Lanka include coconut sambal and chicken curry, or you can order one with egg. For egg hoppers, a whole egg is cracked into the center of an appam, then topped with a richly aromatic chili paste. Appam is also popular in southern India.

    Kisra, Sudan and South Sudan

    41 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Overnight fermentation lends a delicious tang to this Sudanese flatbread, balancing the mild, earthy flavor of sorghum flour with a tart bite.

    Making the crepe-like kisra takes practice and patience, but perfect the art of cooking these on a flat metal pan and you’ll be in for a classic Sudanese treat.

    Like Ethiopian injera, kisra is both staple food and an edible utensil – use pieces of the spongy bread to scoop up spicy bites of the hearty stews that are some of Sudan’s most beloved foods.

    42 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Before commercial yeast was available, brewers and bakers worked in tandem: Brewers harvested yeast from their batches of beer, passing it off to bakers whose bread would be infused with a light beer flavor.

    That legacy lives on in Sweden’s vörtlimpa: Limpa means loaf, while vört refers to a tart dose of brewer’s wort. Known as limpa bread in English, the light rye now gets acidity from orange juice, not brewers wort.

    43 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Crops of cold-hardy barley have thrived on the Tibetan Plateau for thousands of years, and the grain has long been a staple of high-altitude diets there.

    While balep korkun is often made with wheat, traditional versions of this flatbread are shaped from tsampa, a roasted barley flour with nutty flavor.

    That rich-tasting flour is so central to Tibetan identity that it’s been turned into a hashtag and been called out in rap songs. (The Dalai Lama even eats it for breakfast.)

    44 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Dredged in sesame seeds and spiraled into rings, simit might be Turkey’s ultimate on-the-go treat.

    A few decades ago, vendors wound through the Istanbul streets carrying trays piled high with the breads, but roving bread-sellers are now rare in the capital.

    Instead, commuters pick up their daily simit at roadside stands, where the deep-colored rings are stacked by the dozen. A burnished crust infuses the breads with a light sweetness – before sliding into wood fired ovens, simit is dunked in sugar-water or thinned molasses, a slick glaze that turns to caramel in the intense heat.

    45 best breads travel

    Yeasted wheat batter bubbles into a spongy cake for this griddled treat, a British favorite when smeared with jam, butter or clotted cream.

    Ring molds contain the pourable batter on an oiled griddle, which cooks one side of each crumpet to a golden hue. Like Eastern European zwieback and crisp rusks, crumpets are mostly eaten as a twice-baked bread – the rounds are split and toasted before serving.

    46 best breads travel STORY RESTRICTED

    Smeared with butter or dripping in gravy, biscuits are one of the United States’ homiest tastes. That’s not to say they’re easy to make: Achieving soft, fluffy biscuits requires quick hands and gentle mixing.

    In the antebellum South, biscuits were seen as a special treat for Sunday dinner. These days they’re nearly ubiquitous, from gas station barbecue joints to home-cooked meals.

    Part of the secret is in the flour, typically a low-protein flour like White Lily. The soft wheat used for White Lily was long grown in Southern states – before long-distance food shipping. (It’s now milled in the Midwest.)

    47 best breads travel

    Flatbreads become art in Uzbekistan’s traditional tandoor ovens, which turn out rounds adorned with twists, swirls and stamps.

    Uzbek non varies across regions, from Tashkent’s chewy versions to Samarkand loaves showered in black nigella seeds. As soon as the breads emerge from the oven, they’re turned over to a swarm of bicycle messengers who ferry the hot loaves to markets and cafes.

    48 best breads travel

    Areperos – Venezuelan arepa-makers – pat golden rounds of corn dough onto hot griddles to give the plump flatbreads a deliciously toasted crust and tender, steaming interior.

    Arepas have been made in Venezuela and surrounding regions since long before the arrival of Europeans in South America, and the nourishing corn breads can range from simple to elaborate.

    At breakfast, try them split and buttered. Stuffed with savory fillings, creamy sauces and fiery salsa, arepas can become a hearty meal all their own.

    49 best breads travel

    A family tree of flatbreads stretches across the Middle East and beyond, but Yemen’s Jewish community’s version is a richer treat than most.

    To make malawach, bakers roll wheat dough into a delicate sheet and fold it over a slick of melted butter. The dough is twisted into a loose topknot, then re-rolled, sending veins of butter through overlapping layers.

    When the pan-fried dough emerges steaming from the stovetop, a final shower of black nigella or sesame seeds add texture and savory crunch.

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  • Americans are canceling trips that are thousands of miles from Gaza. Here's why

    Americans are canceling trips that are thousands of miles from Gaza. Here's why

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    The Israel-Hamas war is affecting travel across the Middle East and beyond.

    International arrivals to the region grew in the fourth quarter of 2023 — mainly owing to an increase in visitors to Saudi Arabia — to a level that matched 2019 numbers, according to the travel data company ForwardKeys.

    But it’s a far cry from the 30% rise in inbound travelers the region was expecting compared to 2019 levels, based on the number of airline tickets purchased before the Oct. 7 attack on Israel, the company said.  

    The outlook for 2024 doesn’t look much different.

    “The forward-looking situation for arrivals to the Middle East in the first quarter of 2024 as of 6 Oct. — the day before the recent conflict started — was very positive, with tickets issued up by 49% vs pre-pandemic levels,” said Olivier Ponti, the company’s vice president of insights. “Fast-forward to 5 Jan. … with tickets issued now up by just 9% vs. 2019.”

    Data showed air tickets to the Middle East purchased after the war fell 6% from 2019, with purchases to the United Arab Emirates down 8%, Morocco 15%, Turkey 17% and Egypt 21%. Tickets to Jordan were affected the most, falling 50% from 2019 levels, according to ForwardKeys.

    Canceling plans a continent away

    Yet, the war’s effect on travelers extends far beyond the Middle East, according to a survey from Morning Consult.

    The data research company surveyed some 2,200 Americans in November, with one in five people saying they have delayed, rescheduled or canceled a travel booking as a direct result of the Israel-Hamas war. 

    Respondents said these plans included visits to the Middle East (12%) and North Africa (7%), as well as Western Europe (14%), according to the survey. However, the bulk of the cancelations — 41% — were for trips within the United States, the survey showed.

    Cancelations were high for domestic trips because most Americans travel within the 50 states, thus “there are simply more trips on the table to disrupt,” the report stated.

    But as to why the war is making Americans feel uneasy about traveling in their own country, the report stated: “This is also emblematic of the larger tensions — for example, concerns related to antisemitism and Islamophobia — stoked by the conflict, and peoples’ resultant apprehension to venture far from home.”

    Following Hamas’ attack on Israel on Oct. 7, tensions spilled over to college campuses, workplaces and suburban neighborhoods, with many countries reporting a rise in hate crimes against Muslims and Jewish people.

    A worldwide travel advisory, issued by the U.S. State Department less than two weeks following Hamas’ attack on Israel, may have affected traveler confidence as well, the report stated. Some 62% of respondents said they knew about it.

    Worldwide Caution

    “Due to increased tensions in various locations around the world, the potential for terrorist attacks, demonstrations or violent actions against U.S. citizens and interests, the Department of State advises U.S. citizens overseas to exercise increased caution.” — U.S. Travel Advisory issued on Oct. 19, 2023

    In addition to weather and natural disaster alerts, the U.S. State Department Bureau of Consular Affairs’ account on X, formerly Twitter, has pushed out numerous security alerts in the months following the Hamas attack — for Cyprus, Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, Kuwait and Turkey, among others — as well as demonstration alerts for cities in Turkey, Malaysia, Colombia, Oman, Egypt, South Africa, the United Kingdom, Poland and Denmark, some connected to rising anti-U.S. sentiment over the war.

    U.S. domestic travel in the fourth quarter of 2023 fell below 2019 levels, according to ForwardKeys. The downturn happened after the outbreak of the war, the company said.

    The day before the attack, the travel outlook for U.S. domestic travel in the fourth quarter of 2023 was positive (+4%), but it ended down (-5%), “highlighting the impact of the ongoing conflict in Israel,” said Ponti.

    More feel unsafe

    Numerous reports indicate Muslims and Jewish people worldwide no longer feel safe.

    Morning Consult’s survey indicated those who know about the war may be feeling less safe as well.

    Some 52% of respondents with knowledge of the war said they viewed traveling to the Middle East as “very unsafe,” compared to 29% of those who had not heard about it.  

    Those who had heard about the war also indicated that they felt less safe traveling to North Africa and Eastern Europe too, the survey showed.

    Zicasso’s 2024 Luxury Travel Report named geopolitical conflict as one of the three most significant obstacles to booking travel this year.

    In a survey of 200 global travel specialists, 18% said uncertainty and safety issues in certain regions may discourage travelers from booking.

    “After the October events in the Middle East, we did see a significant fall-off in trip requests to Israel and the surrounding region,” said Zicasso’s CEO Brian Tan. “Typically, when travelers have second thoughts about overseas travel to a certain region due to obstacles such as geopolitical conflict, we find that travelers will redirect to other international destinations.”

    He said the war in Ukraine hasn’t materially affected business since Zicasso doesn’t receive many requests for bookings there, but that his company is carefully watching the situation in Ecuador, where gang violence erupted last week.  

    Tan noted that his company has seen a recent rise in trip requests for Morocco, which he noted is thousands of miles from Jerusalem.

    Yet, according to Morning Consult, the Israel-Hamas war could reduce travel interest to the region “for months and even years to come.”

       

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  • I chased machete maniac into sea after he slashed me & wife at random on beach

    I chased machete maniac into sea after he slashed me & wife at random on beach

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    A BRIT holidaymaker who was slashed by a machete maniac chased his attacker into the sea while blood poured from his leg.

    Ian Tickhill, from Hull, East Yorkshire, was relaxing on a sun bed next to his wife Debby in Agadir, Morocco, on Thursday afternoon when they were attacked.

    3

    Ian and Debby Tickhill were relaxing on sun beds when they were attackedCredit: Mirrorpix

    The 58-year-old said it “was over in a matter of seconds” and there was “no mass hysteria”.

    Ian said, in fact, that he didn’t realise he had been wounded when he ran across the sand to ward off the attacker.

    He said the man fled into the sea with his blade and locals rushed down from the promenade and helped form a guard to prevent the man getting back out.

    Ian said the man had allegedly threatened to take his own life if the police got any closer.

    So they simply waited for him to tire himself out as he trod water before detaining him.

    Ian told The Mirror: “I don’t understand where he thought he was going because next stop is the Canary Islands.

    “He caught five of us altogether. By the time he got to the sea I think he’d lost it and didn’t know what else to do. [The police] just thought ‘we’ll wait’ because he had quite a heavy tracksuit on, it’s not going to take long for you when you’re treading water in hot weather.”

    The couple said seen the man come down from the footpath in front of the beach at around 4pm before running down the first line of sunbeds.

    Ian said he didn’t think he was specifically targeting anyone and he and his wife, 56, were just unlucky.

    He said: “As he hit my wife I went to stand up and that’s how he caught my leg,” he explained.

    “I started chasing him and that’s when my wife shouted me back and I thought I better go and see if she’s injured. She told me I was bleeding.”

    He added: “The first lady he hit is actually a Belgian-Moroccan lady. She looks like a typical local. He wasn’t targeting white people or anything. He didn’t even shout anything. He just ran down.

    “There’s only 100 metres of beach before you’re in the sea and that’s literally how long it took. At first I thought he’d hit me with a baton or a truncheon or something. I just wrapped my towel round it. They took us in an ambulance to the hospital.”

    Debby suffered a slash wound on her back.

    The pair spent around 90 minutes being treated at the hospital before giving statements to the police and they returned to their hotel by 7.30pm.

    Ian had internal and external stitches on his calf.

    He said cops had told him the man has mental health problems, is a drug addict and had been arrested before.

    The pair have already returned to the beach to enjoy the rest of their break and are due to fly back to Britain on Monday.

    Ian said: “It could happen anywhere, you’re walking down any city in the world, you meet an idiot.

    “People with small kids were just getting the kids out of the way, which you’d expect.

    “The police patrol the beach anyway, there are police there all the time. He must have noticed the pattern and just gone for a gap. If he had hit a kid, a small child it would have been bad, but fortunately it wasn’t. They’re making something out of nothing. I’d definitely come back.”

    A spokesperson for the Foreign, Commonwealth and Development Office said: “We are assisting two British people following an incident in Morocco and are in contact with the local authorities.”

    Ian thought at first he had been hit with a baton or truncheon

    3

    Ian thought at first he had been hit with a baton or truncheonCredit: Mirrorpix
    Ian needed internal and external stitches to his calf but was soon back at his hotel

    3

    Ian needed internal and external stitches to his calf but was soon back at his hotelCredit: Mirrorpix

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  • I used DNA analysis to find my birth family, and it sent me across 3 continents | CNN

    I used DNA analysis to find my birth family, and it sent me across 3 continents | CNN

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    CNN
     — 

    When I sent DNA samples to genetic testing services searching for my birth family, I had no idea it would launch me on an adventure across three continents.

    In 1961, I was adopted at birth in California. Over the years, I’ve searched for my birth family on and off but have always been stymied by sealed records and tight-lipped officials. In the past decade, however, home DNA testing and easy online access to official records have changed the game.

    I spit into plastic tubes (one for each of the two big players in this industry in the United States: 23andMe and Ancestry.com), dropped them in the mail, and waited, anxiously, for the results. When the email arrived in early 2022, I was stunned.

    After a lifetime believing I was a basic White American, I learned that was only half true. My birth mother was born in Iowa. But it turned out my father was North African.

    I reached out to anonymous DNA matches through 23andMe and Ancestry’s messaging systems, but no one replied. Then came weeks of research using Ancestry.com and various public records databases until I was able to identify both my parents and find contact information for a handful of their close relatives.

    I discovered my birth father had been born in the mid-1930s in Casablanca. Romantic visions of Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman (fictionally) escaping the Nazis swam in my head.

    Records showed he had emigrated to the United States in 1959 and ended up in San Francisco. My mother had been raised in San Diego and also moved to San Francisco right after high school. But why had he left Morocco? What brought her to San Francisco? I had to know more.

    After days of imagining the best and worst, I drafted scripts for what to say to genetically close family members who most likely had no idea I even existed. Then I apprehensively reached out.

    To my great relief, my mother’s and father’s families both welcomed me with open arms – despite their shock at discovering I existed.

    I learned quickly that both my biological parents had died and was deeply disappointed I had forever missed my chance to meet them. Would things have been different if I’d searched harder earlier?

    But I was thrilled that all their siblings were still alive.

    From my new family, I pieced together a rough sketch of my parents’ stories: On opposite sides of the world, they had both butted heads with difficult parents and left home at the first opportunity. They both wound up in one of the most free-thinking places on Earth: San Francisco.

    He worked as floor installer in the city’s North Beach neighborhood, where she was a cocktail waitress and dancer. I pictured them meeting while he installed floors in a nightclub where she was working.

    By all accounts, it must have been a very brief affair. My father was living with a girlfriend, and my mother’s sister says she never once heard my mother discuss my father in any way. Other than the sister and her mother, no one else in her family was told she was pregnant. My father’s family says they are 100% certain he was never told, either.

    There were other big surprises: I was told my mother never had another child – or even a serious boyfriend – for the rest of her life. On my father’s side, I was shocked to learn I had a half-brother and half-sister and dozens of cousins in France and Morocco.

    They invited me to visit. I booked a trip to meet my father’s huge, welcoming family.

    The author's extended family owns property on a rocky promontory in Dar Bouazza, a coastal community just west of Casablanca.

    In Paris, a cousin threw me an exuberant party at her sunny suburban home, where I was warmly embraced by the entire French branch of the family. They gave me insiders’ hints tailored to my interests about where to go and what to see off the beaten track.

    At their recommendation, I spent an afternoon in a huge, beautiful city park in eastern Paris called Buttes-Chaumont. I ate dinner at the French equivalent of a working-class diner (a bouillon, named for the broth) called Julien. It was my third time in Paris, but now I saw it through new eyes, imagining myself as something of an honorary son of the city.

    Morocco was another world entirely. I had never traveled to a Muslim country or anywhere outside Europe or the Americas. The experience was a strange and magical combination of foreign adventure and comfort travel, buffered by family looking out for me.

    I spent the first six days in the seaside resort town of Dar Bouazza, about 45 minutes from Casablanca, where my large Moroccan family owns a set of neighboring summer homes just yards from the beach. The houses are built on property my grandfather bought nearly a century ago (when the land was thought to be worthless) as a place to escape the summer heat of Casablanca.

    A photo of Fez at sunset, taken from the roof of a riad in the Moroccan city.

    French is the family’s primary language, and my aunts and uncles don’t speak English. Some younger cousin was usually available to translate, but group conversations at the table or on the back deck were always in French, leaving me no way to join in. I resolved to learn conversational French by my next visit.

    Despite the language gap, I got to know them all – the stern uncle, the motherly aunts, the prankster cousin. And I recognized many of their personality traits and quirks – how boisterous, curious and sly they are – in myself.

    I spent nearly a week wolfing down delicious, authentic Moroccan meals such as lamb tajine (steam roasted with vegetables inside a ceramic dish of the same name) and pastilla (spiced, shredded chicken or game bird wrapped in filo pastry) cooked and served on seaside terraces by the small household staffs common in middle-class Moroccan homes.

    Exploring a new homeland

    Yet I wanted to see more of my father’s homeland, so I left on a tour of Fez and Marrakech arranged by a cousin and her husband, who happen to own a luxury travel company.

    Those two cities were beautiful and awe-inspiring, alien yet weirdly familiar. I experienced them in a unique and very personal way thanks to my DNA journey: as a son just one generation removed from his father’s homeland.

    Professional guides created tours personalized to my interests and my newly discovered family’s culture and history – right down to a side trip to my family’s ancestral mausoleum in Fez.

    I saw the things my father might have seen touring the cities’ colorful medinas (marketplaces) where the guides introduced me to shopkeepers by my new family name. I saw gorgeous mosques and unexpected sidelights such as Marrakech’s largest Jewish temple, Synagogue Lazama. I watched craftsmen at work, making pottery, leather goods and fabric just as it has been done for centuries.

    The Roman ruins at Volubilis are remarkably pristine because of their isolation and the fact that they were unoccupied for nearly a thousand years.

    The highlight of the tour was a side trip to the ancient Roman ruins at Volubilis, between Fez and the Moroccan capital of Rabat. The city was abandoned by Rome around the third century and was not excavated until the early 20th. Seeing well-preserved walls, foundations, and floor mosaics on site – something that simply cannot be seen in the Americas – was a superb experience for a history buff like me.

    The tour was capped by a hike in the High Atlas Mountains to spend an afternoon with a local family who gave me a Berber-style cooking lesson, teaching me how to stew lamb and vegetables in a traditional Moroccan tagine.

    The patriarch even loaned me a djellaba, a traditional Moroccan outer robe, to wear for a photo, which felt both strange and strangely comforting – a perfect encapsulation of the whole trip.

    The author and his host sample the results of his Berber cooking lesson.

    Getting a home DNA test can launch you on your own great adventure – intended or not.

    Former CNN correspondent Samuel Burke created an entire podcast series in partnership with CNN Philippines, “Suddenly Family,” around the surprises – pleasant and otherwise – that can spring from DNA analysis.

    “DNA testing can open up this Pandora’s Box that nobody in the DNA industry talks about,” he said.

    Burke said some people just want to know about genetic health conditions they may carry. Many more are just looking to learn more about their ethnicity, “how Irish, how Jewish, how Native American they are.” But he said few realize the testing services will connect them to other people, sometimes in unexpected ways.

    In Fez, Curran visited several workshops where fabrics, leather goods and ceramics are hand-crafted using ancient techniques and tools.

    Whether you know nothing about your family background or think you know everything, there are likely to be surprises. Among them, Burke lists finding out a parent was unfaithful or that you’re the product of artificial insemination. Or you could discover you’re not biologically related to one of your parents.

    Burke said being prepared is key to avoiding some of the pitfalls.

    “Expect that you will find out something unexpected.” And he says that if you suspect something bad, you can opt out of sharing your results. Burke added the single best piece of advice he’s heard while reporting on DNA is “slow down.” Don’t become “hell-bent on solving the mysteries” and sharing your results as quickly as possible.

    Whether or not your DNA testing has unexpected results, it can inspire some fascinating travel across the country or, as in my case, around the world.

    What I learned on my adventure, however, is that the best part – even more than the places you visit – is the people you bond with, your new-found family who are like you, but also very different.

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  • 12/17/2023: The Hostage Story; Looting of Cambodia; Gnawa

    12/17/2023: The Hostage Story; Looting of Cambodia; Gnawa

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    12/17/2023: The Hostage Story; Looting of Cambodia; Gnawa – CBS News


    Watch CBS News



    First, a released Israeli hostage shares her painful story. Then, a look at how Cambodia is tracking down looted antiquities. And, reporting on Gnawa’s musical legacy in Morocco.

    Be the first to know

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  • Gnawa music, legacy of enslaved Black Africans, surges in popularity | 60 Minutes

    Gnawa music, legacy of enslaved Black Africans, surges in popularity | 60 Minutes

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    Gnawa music, legacy of enslaved Black Africans, surges in popularity | 60 Minutes – CBS News


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    Hundreds of thousands of music fans visit Morocco each year for the Gnawa and World Music Festival. The ancient music, often dubbed Moroccan Blues, is the legacy of enslaved Black Africans in Morocco.

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  • Ancient Gnawa music — dubbed Moroccan Blues — finds new audiences in Europe, America

    Ancient Gnawa music — dubbed Moroccan Blues — finds new audiences in Europe, America

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    Most people have never heard of Gnawa. Originally you weren’t supposed to. For centuries, the music was only played in secret ceremonies by enslaved Black Africans brought to Morocco. Gnawa—an indigenous word for black people— is music born of the suffering of slavery. For many African Americans those rhythms are familiar. What we know as the American Blues evolved from this swirl of ancient African and Islamic rituals. Centuries later, Gnawa is exploding in popularity. Today, hundreds of thousands of music fans make the trek to the ground zero of Gnawa music: the annual festival in Essaouira on Morocco’s Atlantic coast. 480 musicians. 16 countries. 50 concerts. How could we say no?

    As the sun set over the Moroccan town of Essaouira, the huge crowd grew more impatient. They’d been waiting all day for maalem Hamid El Kasri, a 21st century Gnawa superstar whose playlist dates from the 11th century. El Kasri’s back-up singers came on first, wearing the same ornate silk robes and tasseled fezzes the Gnawans have worn for hundreds of years. Finally, the maalem—or master musician—appeared and strapped on his gimbri.

    The mother of all basses, the gimbri is made from wood, camel skin, and strung with goat gut. El Kasri started slowly. One of Morocco’s top maalems, Hamid El Kasri helped make Gnawa a contemporary force. Soon, he picked up the pace. The Arabic lyrics date from the Middle Ages. And this crowd knew every word.

    The music built to a crescendo. It was a pyramid of sound…driven by the pulsating beat of the krakebs—metal castanets—that are played at astonishing speed. This is the musical legacy of enslaved Black Africans brought to Morocco in medieval times. But the story doesn’t end here. It’s music that traveled out into the Atlantic from the slave ports of Africa and helped give rise to the American blues.

    Bob Wisdom: This was a point of departure. It was a place where dramatically Black Americans have a tie to that we don’t really know about.

    Bill Whitaker and Bob Wisdom
    Bill Whitaker and Bob Wisdom

    60 Minutes


    Robert Wisdom is an actor and a Gnawa superfan. You may know him from “The Wire” or the hit show “Barry,” but today, he was just Bob. We met on Essaouira’s ramparts built stone by stone by enslaved Africans in the seventeen hundreds.

    Bill Whitaker: You can trace the blues to here?

    Bob Wisdom: You can trace the blues—you can trace the blues to the Black cultures from Senegal, Gambia, Mali, who then traveled North into Morocco, the Black races. When you come here and hear the Gnawa you feel the same thing that we feel with the old-time Blues.

    Bill Whitaker: You feel the Blues.

    Bob Wisdom: You feel the Blues and that’s what Gnawa does.

    It’s music that seems to rise from the very stones of this ancient walled city. Once a lucrative trading post, slave markets were closed as recently as 1912. Today, fishing boats and tourists crowd the old harbor, a postcard of carefree leisure. But for actor Bob Wisdom, it’s the music of Gnawa—embedded in a painful past—that is the town’s true spirit.

    Bob Wisdom: When I come here, there’s a living-ness about this music. It is alive as well as it’s ancient. And so all of this music is passed on orally, so it’s changing all the time. And it’s the same with our blues.

    Bill Whitaker: You have called it a portal to the past?

    Bob Wisdom: Mmm

    Bill Whitaker: What do you mean by that?

    Bob Wisdom: It gives us a reminder of of identity, who we are in the larger sense. You know, the the Africanness in our blood.

    Wisdom has seen Essaouira’s festival grow from a cult following in 1998 to attracting up to 500,000 fans, including Western musicians who want a run at the Moroccan blues. The opening day parade was a free-wheeling mardi gras as more than 200 Gnawa musicians wound their way through the maze of streets. Wisdom greeted old friends, as we watched flying footwork and acrobatics that could rival a circus.

    On stage, you could feel the shared mojo between Moroccan and American blues. We saw stylized line steps that reminded us of motown, deep knee drops that James Brown would envy. American percussionist Sulaiman Hakim told us the similarities didn’t end there. He told us the gospel-like call and response so key to gnawa was the same as he’d grown up with in Los Angeles.

    Sulaiman Hakim: In blues, or funk there is a call and response. So automatically the first time I heard Gnawas, I said, “Wow this sounds like music from back home.” And the way that they start turning their heads, it’s just like the dances that was done back in the 30s and 40s when you see Duke Ellington, Count Basie, and everybody was dancing, how our parents and grandparents were dan—it’s the same thing.

    A musical globetrotter, Sulaiman Hakim started his career with legendary jazz drummer and composer Max Roach. But he told us the Gnawa maalems could go toe to toe with anyone. What set the music apart was the castanets.

    Castenets
    Castenets are the heartbeat of Gnawa music

    60 Minutes


    Sulaiman Hakim: You only hear this in—in Morocco. They have what we call a six-way feeling to it [makes sound to emulate music.] As a musician you’re totally wiped away by this pulsation. And it just grabbed me like this. Well you can see, I—I’m a nervous wreck about it. It’s—it’s just unbelievable. And then..

    Bill Whitaker: It still does that to you?

    Sulaiman Hakim: It still does it.

    Sulaiman Hakim: And when the tempo starts to pick up…

    Bill Whitaker: We’re taking off.

    Sulaiman Hakim: We’re takin’ off.

    The castanets—or krakebs—are the heartbeat of Gnawa. Their origin story, passed down through generations, says that the krakebs were forged from the shackles of slaves. It’s impossible to know. But many, including Hakim, told us they were in awe of the Gnawa for using music to defuse a painful past.

    Sulaiman Hakim: Krakebs are the instruments like that but actually it was this. [gestures] It was used to keep ’em under control.

    Bill Whitaker: We’ve seen those horrible pictures of people

    Sulaiman Hakim: Yeah if you look at ’em there, there are two pieces like this that, that you click together. And if you take one of ’em and put it here, and here, it’s a neck piece. And they converted them, unbelievably, into an instrument.

    Bill Whitaker: They turned something horrible into something beautiful.

    Sulaiman Hakim: Beautiful. Doesn’t that remind you of somethin’?

    Hakim told us the early American blues—like this recording from the 1930s—is cut from the same cloth. And the full-throated lyrics of Gnawa, songs searching for freedom and hope, would have resonated as much in 11th century Morocco as they did on the plantations of the Deep South.

    Sulaiman Hakim: There’s always been a way to pass a message—a message. And to be able to express itself of all the pain and agony and the glory that has happened within the continental United States and the Gnawas are the same way.

    Today, Gnawa has inspired Moroccan bands who enjoy rock star status that would have astounded their musical ancestors. Gnawa has become the top entertainment in Morocco, Essaouira’s annual festival its locus.

    Morocco has long seduced western musicians. Jazz legend Randy Weston fell under Gnawa’s spell in the 1960s. Rock ‘n’ roll giant Robert Plant was another convert.

    So too was Carlos Santana, Cat Stevens, Paul Simon, Frank Zappa, all of whom made the trek to Morocco. Even Madonna paid tribute on her latest album.

    Jimi Hendrix has enduring popularity in Essaouira
    Jimi Hendrix has enduring popularity in Essaouira 

    60 Minutes


    But no musician is as celebrated in Morocco as Jimi Hendrix. He rocked up in Essaouira in 1969, where the story goes, he jammed with the Gnawa, fell in love with a local beauty, and wrote the hit “Castles Made of Sand.” Decades later, actor Bob Wisdom told us the Hendrix legend lives on.

    Bob Wisdom: Everybody in town will tell you that they hung out with him. That’s not so (both laugh).

    Bob Wisdom: I’ve seen one person who had a picture of Jimi. Now I don’t know if it’s a real picture, I’ll be honest.

    Bill Whitaker: It’s like George Washington slept here.

    Bob Wisdom: Exactly.

    Bill Whitaker: It’s like Jimi Hendrix, I knew Jimi, I knew Jimi Hendrix.

    Bob Wisdom: I knew Jimi, everybody knew Jimi. You go in the medina and it’s like “oh yes yes, Jimi Hendrix my friend, my friend.”

    In fact, Hendrix didn’t even have a guitar when he showed up. And “Castles Made of Sand”—sorry, romance fans—was recorded two years earlier. But why spoil the story? In the Medina’s winding alleys, it didn’t take much to find the spirit of Jimi.

    And if you close your eyes, he’s here at his name-sake café, blaring out from fuzzy speakers that sound like they too survived the 60s. Tall tales from a short stay. But Gnawa will do that to you.

    The idea that music could be a potent healing force is now attracting serious scientific study, centuries after Morocco’s Gnawa masters turned to music as medicine. Gnawa is the music of enslaved Black Africans, who were marched across the Sahara to Morocco centuries ago. Often dubbed the Moroccan Blues, the original music was sacred, praising saints and spirits. Today, Gnawa is enjoying a secular boom. The Gnawa festival—held every June in Essaouira—now attracts hundreds of thousands of fans. And as Gnawa’s popularity grows, so too does the appetite for a taste of the mystic.

    Away from the mosh pit of the main stage, in a quiet courtyard, we’d come to hear one of Morocco’s best known Gnawa masters—or maalems—Mokhtar Gania. Tracing its ancestors to Senegal, the Gania family are as close to Essaouira royalty as you can get.

    Mokhtar Gania
    Mokhtar Gania

    60 Minutes


    With his rich baritone voice—often compared to B.B. King—we watched as the maalem strummed his way through the Gnawa liturgy. As always, the castanets drove the beat. The repeated rhythms designed to send people into a trance—a sort of ecstasy—as a way of communicating with the spirits. We watched as one after another, the music moved the unlikeliest of dancers. One swooped like a bird. Another headbanged wildly. One musician told us, it was like a passport to another dimension. 

    This was just a glimpse of the sacred. Traditional Gnawa trance ceremonies are usually private, elaborate dusk-to-dawn rituals. They’re called lilas. The maalem acts as a musical medium, calling on the spirits to help cure various ills.

    Jaleel Shaw: It’s like church. It’s a very spiritual music where everyone’s really part of the experience.

    Saxophonist Jaleel Shaw told us he’d never heard of Gnawa music before he was invited to the festival. But when he saw people go into trance, it reminded him of worshippers speaking in tongues at the pentecostal church he’d grown up with in Philadelphia.

    Bill Whitaker: You see a connection?

    Jaleel Shaw: Absolutely. My experience with Pentecostal church is shouting, or what they call catching the Holy Ghost. So when I went to church, services would go on and on and on if someone caught the Holy Ghost. If someone caught the spirit.

    Actor Bob Wisdom told us he’d gone into trance once and he’ll never forget it.

    Bob Wisdom: The trance is a little scary, you know, because you wanna hold on. You don’t wanna let go into it. It’s the unknown. It’s enough that I don’t understand the language but to go into another dimension of of possession…

    Bill Whitaker: It’s powerful.

    Bob Wisdom: It’s very powerful.

    Wisdom told us the healing rituals of the lilas were like medicine, driven by the hypnotic rhythms of the castanets.

    Bob Wisdom: Any American-trained musician will say “oh my god” because the the time is so irregular to how we hear but it builds to hold this spiritual force that they’re generating in the lila to call the spirits. That’s when you get that little shiver in the ceremony. I guess that’s a long way to say, I just like being on the edge of time.

    Bill Whitaker: That’s what this feels like to you?

    Bob Wisdom: Yeah. It’s like being on the edge of time.

    So while we were stuck in this dimension, we decided to find out more about the gimbri and the powerful medicine it seems to unleash in the hands of the right maalem. We went to see Mokhtar Gania.

    A gimbri
    A gimbri

    60 Minutes


    Even without his red and gold finery, the maalem welcomed us into his house with a traditional prayer.

    He told us this is one of the oldest gimbris he made. Hand-carved from ebony and the skin from a camel’s neck. Turns out the gimbri can also be a drum, the maalem’s thumb: their secret weapon. Gania told us it takes a lifetime of study to become a maalem. But as Gnawa has evolved, so too have its ancient instruments. The maalem electrified this gimbri, added frets and decoration.

    Bill Whitaker: That is the blues.

    Mokhtar Gania: Yeah.

    And Gania’s newest creation? A rhinestone-crusted gimbri that belongs to the 21st century.

    Bill Whitaker: This one looks like a rockstars.

    Maalem Gania told us he can wring more notes from this gimbri but the songs stay the same. 

    Bill Whitaker: Some of the songs you sing are centuries old. Why do they still connect with young people today?

    Mokhtar Gania (translated): That’s easy.

    He told us:

    Mokhtar Gania (translated): Gnawa may be ancient, but it comes straight from the heart. They are very spiritual. Music is not just written for the ear. In Gnawa music, we start with the spirits. 

    Bill Whitaker: So when you hear American artists like um Louis Armstrong or James Brown, do you hear Gnawa in their music?

    Mokhtar Gania (translated): James Brown is Gnawa. 

    He told us:

    Mokhtar Gania (translated): And Gnawa is James Brown. 

    We headed back to the main stage. We watched a young boy hone his dance steps in a cloud of incense while his Gnawan brothers looked on. Musician Jaleel Shaw told us it was like watching history sing and dance across that stage. He said he felt like an ambassador for American music and the debt owed to the enslaved Black Africans who first expressed themselves in that music. 

    Bill Whitaker: Does that history come into play when you’re listening to this music?

    Jaleel Shaw: Absolutely. That—that—that history comes into play every time I pick up my instrument. The blues comes from the slave songs, slave songs come from

    Bill Whitaker: Comes from this.

    Jaleel Shaw: From this. That’s why I play.

    Bill Whitaker: Do you make that connection intellectually or – 

    Jaleel Shaw: Intellectually. Spiritually. I feel it. I’m a descendant.

    That night, as the sun sank into the atlantic, a different spirit surged into the streets as the old healing music evolved again. Les Amazones d’Afrique—a trio of divas from Mali—joined Asma Hamzoui, one of the few female maalems in Morocco.

    Morocco practices a moderate Islam, and it’s a sign of Gnawa’s resilience that women are now being welcomed into the master ranks.

    Sulaiman Hakim: Without music, there is no life. Music is the heartbeat of—of existence. You cannot point to me one society on this planet that exists without music.

    Musician Sulaiman Hakim told us every time he played this festival, he discovered something new in the Gnawa playbook. And he predicted it would influence a new generation of musicians.

    Sulaiman Hakim: It’s gonna open up a whole ‘nother world. And then you will see that in the next ten—ten years from now, 20 years we’ll be here Bill, don’t worry about it

    Bill Whitaker: We’ll still be here (laughing)

    Sulaiman Hakim: We’ll still be here to hear this. It’s, it’s gonna be outrageous.

    Bill Whitaker: And Gnawa is steppin’ in?

    Sulaiman Hakim: Gnawa is there to stay.

    The truth of those words was right in front of us: Hoba Hoba Spirit, Morocco’s answer to the Rolling Stones. They arrived on stage well after midnight to a frenzied crowd, pogo-ing with abandon. This was music from the streets, the songs often angry and disaffected. They’re a thumb in the eye of authority and young Moroccans love them. The band’s leader, Reda Allali told us Gnawa was their inspiration, the castanets a nod to the past. “Call it African folk,” he wrote “call it Gnawa blues, it’s just rock ‘n’ roll sung by a Moroccan soul.” 

    Produced by Heather Abbott. Associate producer, LaCrai Scott. Broadcast associate, Mariah B. Campbell. Edited by April Wilson. 

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  • Migration is derailing leaders from Biden to Macron. Who’s next?

    Migration is derailing leaders from Biden to Macron. Who’s next?

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    BRUSSELS — Western leaders are grappling with how to handle two era-defining wars in the Middle East and in Ukraine. But there’s another issue, one far closer to home, that’s derailing governments in Europe and America: migration. 

    In recent days, U.S. President Joe Biden, his French counterpart Emmanuel Macron, and British Prime Minister Rishi Sunak all hit trouble amid intense domestic pressure to tackle immigration; all three emerged weakened as a result. The stakes are high as American, British and European voters head to the polls in 2024. 

    “There is a temptation to hunt for quick fixes,” said Rashmin Sagoo, director of the international law program at the Chatham House think tank in London. “But irregular migration is a hugely challenging issue. And solving it requires long-term policy thinking beyond national boundaries.”

    With election campaigning already under way, long-term plans may be hard to find. Far-right, anti-migrant populists promising sharp answers are gaining support in many Western democracies, leaving mainstream parties to count the costs. Less than a month ago in the Netherlands, pragmatic Dutch centrists lost to an anti-migrant radical. 

    Who will be next? 

    Rishi Sunak, United Kingdom 

    In Britain, Prime Minister Rishi Sunak is under pressure from members of his own ruling Conservative party who fear voters will punish them over the government’s failure to get a grip on migration. 

    U.K. Prime Minister Rishi Sunak speaks during a press conference in Dover on June 5, 2023 in Dover, England | Pool photo by Yui Mok/WPA via Getty Images

    Seven years ago, voters backed Brexit because euroskeptic campaigners promised to “Take Back Control” of the U.K.’s borders. Instead, the picture is now more chaotic than ever. The U.K. chalked up record net migration figures last month, and the government has failed so far to stop small boats packed with asylum seekers crossing the English Channel.

    Sunak is now in the firing line. He made a pledge to “Stop the Boats” central to his premiership. In the process, he ignited a war in his already divided party about just how far Britain should go. 

    Under Sunak’s deal with Rwanda, the central African nation agreed to resettle asylum seekers who arrived on British shores in small boats. The PM says the policy will deter migrants from making sea crossings to the U.K. in the first place. But the plan was struck down by the Supreme Court in London, and Sunak’s Tories now can’t agree on what to do next. 

    Having survived what threatened to be a catastrophic rebellion in parliament on Tuesday, the British premier still faces a brutal battle in the legislature over his proposed Rwanda law early next year.

    Time is running out for Sunak to find a fix. An election is expected next fall.

    Emmanuel Macron, France

    The French president suffered an unexpected body blow when the lower house of parliament rejected his flagship immigration bill this week. 

    French President Emmanuel Macron at the Elysee Palace in Paris, on June 21, 2023 | Ludovic Marin/AFP via Getty Images

    After losing parliamentary elections last year, getting legislation through the National Assembly has been a fraught process for Macron. He has been forced to rely on votes from the right-wing Les Républicains party on more than one occasion. 

    Macron’s draft law on immigration was meant to please both the conservatives and the center-left with a carefully designed mix of repressive and liberal measures. But in a dramatic upset, the National Assembly, which is split between centrists, the left and the far right, voted against the legislation on day one of debates.

    Now Macron is searching for a compromise. The government has tasked a joint committee of senators and MPs with seeking a deal. But it’s likely their text will be harsher than the initial draft, given that the Senate is dominated by the centre right — and this will be a problem for Macron’s left-leaning lawmakers. 

    If a compromise is not found, Marine Le Pen’s far-right National Rally will be able to capitalize on Macron’s failure ahead of the European Parliament elections next June. 

    But even if the French president does manage to muddle through, the episode is likely to mark the end of his “neither left nor right” political offer. It also raises serious doubts about his ability to legislate on controversial topics.

    Joe Biden, United States   

    The immigration crisis is one of the most vexing and longest-running domestic challenges for President Joe Biden. He came into office vowing to reverse the policies of his predecessor, Donald Trump, and build a “fair and humane” system, only to see Congress sit on his plan for comprehensive immigration reform. 

    U.S. President Joe Biden pauses as he gives a speech in Des Moines, Iowa on July 15, 2019 | Photo by Justin Sullivan/Getty Images

    The White House has seen a deluge of migrants at the nation’s southern border, strained by a decades-old system unable to handle modern migration patterns. 

    Ahead of next year’s presidential election, Republicans have seized on the issue. GOP state leaders have filed lawsuits against the administration and sent busloads of migrants to Democrat-led cities, while in Washington, Republicans in Congress have tied foreign aid to sweeping changes to border policy, putting the White House in a tight spot as Biden officials now consider a slate of policies they once forcefully rejected. 

    The political pressure has spilled into the other aisle. States and cities, particularly ones led by Democrats, are pressuring Washington leaders to do more in terms of providing additional federal aid and revamping southern border policies to limit the flow of asylum seekers into the United States.

    New York City has had more than 150,000 new arrivals over the past year and a half — forcing cuts to new police recruits, cutting library hours and limiting sanitation duties. Similar problems are playing out in cities like Chicago, which had migrants sleeping in buses or police stations.

    The pressure from Democrats is straining their relationship with the White House. New York City Mayor Eric Adams runs the largest city in the nation, but hasn’t spoken with Biden in nearly a year. “We just need help, and we’re not getting that help,” Adams told reporters Tuesday. 

    Olaf Scholz, Germany

    Migration has been at the top of the political agenda in Germany for months, with asylum applications rising to their highest levels since the 2015 refugee crisis triggered by Syria’s civil war.

    The latest influx has posed a daunting challenge to national and local governments alike, which have struggled to find housing and other services for the migrants, not to mention the necessary funds. 

    The inability to limit the number of refugees has put German Chancellor Olaf Scholz under immense pressure | Michele Tantussi/Getty Images

    The inability — in a country that ranks among the most coveted destinations for asylum seekers — to limit the number of refugees has put German Chancellor Olaf Scholz under immense pressure. In the hope of stemming the flow, Germany recently reinstated border checks with Poland, the Czech Republic and Switzerland, hoping to turn back the refugees before they hit German soil.

    Even with border controls, refugee numbers remain high, which has been a boon to the far right. Germany’s anti-immigrant Alternative for Germany party has reached record support in national polls. 

    Since overtaking Scholz’s Social Democrats in June, the AfD has widened its lead further, recording 22 percent in recent polls, second only to the center-right Christian Democrats. 

    The AfD is expected to sweep three state elections next September in eastern Germany, where support for the party and its reactionary anti-foreigner policies is particularly strong.

    The center-right, meanwhile, is hardening its position on migration and turning its back on the open-border policies championed by former Chancellor Angela Merkel. Among the new priorities is a plan to follow the U.K.’s Rwanda model for processing refugees in third countries.

    Karl Nehammer, Austria 

    Like Scholz, the Austrian leader’s approval ratings have taken a nosedive thanks to concerns over migration. Austria has taken steps to tighten controls at its southern and eastern borders. 

    Though the tactic has led to a drop in arrivals by asylum seekers, it also means Austria has effectively suspended the EU’s borderless travel regime, which has been a boon to the regional economy for decades. 

    Austria has effectively suspended the EU’s borderless travel regime, which has been a boon to the regional economy for decades | Thomas Kronsteiner/Getty Images

    The far-right Freedom Party has had a commanding lead for more than a year, topping the ruling center-right in polls by 10 points. That puts the party in a position to win national elections scheduled for next fall, which would mark an unprecedented rightward tilt in a country whose politics have been dominated by the center since World War II. 

    Giorgia Meloni, Italy 

    Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni made her name in opposition, campaigning on a radical far-right agenda. Since winning power in last year’s election, she has shifted to more moderate positions on Ukraine and Europe.

    Meloni now needs to appease her base on migration, a topic that has dominated Italian debate for years. Instead, however, she has been forced to grant visas to hundreds of thousands of legal migrants to cover labor shortages. Complicating matters, boat landings in Italy are up by about 50 per cent year-on-year despite some headline-grabbling policies and deals to stop arrivals. 

    While Meloni has ordered the construction of detention centers where migrants will be held pending repatriation, in reality local conditions in African countries and a lack of repatriation agreements present serious impediments.    

    Italy’s Prime Minister, Giorgia Meloni at a press conference on March 9, 2023 | Tiziana Fabi/AFP via Getty Images

    Although she won the support of Commission President Ursula von der Leyen for her cause, a potential EU naval mission to block departures from Africa would risk breaching international law. 

    Meloni has tried other options, including a deal with Tunisia to help stop migrant smuggling, but the plan fell apart before it began. A deal with Albania to offshore some migrant detention centers also ran into trouble. 

    Now Meloni is in a bind. The migration issue has brought her into conflict with France and Germany as she attempts to create a reputation as a moderate conservative. 

    If she fails to get to grips with the issue, she is likely to lose political ground. Her coalition partner Matteo Salvini is known as a hardliner on migration, and while they’re officially allies for now, they will be rivals again later. 

    Geert Wilders, the Netherlands

    The government of long-serving Dutch Prime Minister Mark Rutte was toppled over migration talks in July, after which he announced his exit from politics. In subsequent elections, in which different parties vied to fill Rutte’s void, far-right firebrand Geert Wilders secured a shock win. On election night he promised to curb the “asylum tsunami.” 

    Wilders is now seeking to prop up a center-right coalition with three other parties that have urged getting migration under control. One of them is Rutte’s old group, now led by Dilan Yeşilgöz. 

    Geert Wilders attends a meeting in the Dutch parliament with party leaders to discuss the formation of a coalition government, on November 24, 2023 | Carl Court/Getty Images

    A former refugee, Yeşilgöz turned migration into one of the main topics of her campaign. She was criticized after the elections for paving the way for Wilders to win — not only by focusing on migration, but also by opening the door to potentially governing with Wilders. 

    Now, though, coalition talks are stuck, and it could take months to form a new cabinet. If Wilders, who clearly has a mandate from voters, can stitch a coalition together, the political trajectory of the Netherlands — generally known as a pragmatic nation — will shift significantly to the right. A crackdown on migration is as certain as anything can be. 

    Leo Varadkar, Ireland

    Even in Ireland, an economically open country long used to exporting its own people worldwide, an immigration-friendly and pro-business government has been forced by rising anti-foreigner sentiment to introduce new migration deterrence measures that would have been unthinkable even a year ago.

    Ireland’s hardening policies reflect both a chronic housing crisis and the growing reluctance of some property owners to keep providing state-funded emergency shelter in the wake of November riots in Dublin triggered by a North African immigrant’s stabbing of young schoolchildren.

    A nation already housing more than 100,000 newcomers, mostly from Ukraine, Ireland has stopped guaranteeing housing to new asylum seekers if they are single men, chiefly from Nigeria, Algeria, Afghanistan, Georgia and Somalia, according to the most recent Department of Integration statistics

    Ireland has stopped guaranteeing housing to new asylum seekers if they are single men, chiefly from Nigeria, Algeria, Afghanistan, Georgia and Somalia | Jorge Guerrero/AFP via Getty Images

    Even newly arrived families face an increasing risk of being kept in military-style tents despite winter temperatures.

    Ukrainians, who since Russia’s 2022 invasion of their country have received much stronger welfare support than other refugees, will see that welcome mat partially retracted in draft legislation approved this week by the three-party coalition government of Prime Minister Leo Varadkar. 

    Once enacted by parliament next month, the law will limit new Ukrainian arrivals to three months of state-paid housing, while welfare payments – currently among the most generous in Europe for people fleeing Russia’s war – will be slashed for all those in state-paid housing.

    Justin Trudeau, Canada  

    A pessimistic public mood dragged down by cost-of-living woes has made immigration a multidimensional challenge for Prime Minister Justin Trudeau.

    A housing crunch felt across the country has cooled support for immigration, with people looking for scapegoats for affordability pains. The situation has fueled antipathy for Trudeau and his re-election campaign.

    Trudeau has treated immigration as a multipurpose solution for Canada’s aging population and slowing economy. And while today’s record-high population growth reflects well on Canada’s reputation as a desirable place to relocate, political challenges linked to migration have arisen in unpredictable ways for Trudeau’s Liberals.

    Political challenges linked to migration have arisen in unpredictable ways for Trudeau’s Liberals | Andrej Ivanov/AFP

    Since Trudeau came to power eight years ago, at least 1.3 million people have immigrated to Canada, mostly from India, the Philippines, China and Syria. Handling diaspora politics — and foreign interference — has become more consequential, as seen by Trudeau’s clash with India and Canada’s recent break with Israel.

    Canada will double its 40 million population in 25 years if the current growth rate holds, enlarging the political challenges of leading what Trudeau calls the world’s “first postnational state”.

    Pedro Sánchez, Spain

    Spain’s autonomous cities of Ceuta and Melilla, in Northern Africa, are favored by migrants seeking to enter Europe from the south: Once they make it across the land border, the Continent can easily be accessed by ferry. 

    Transit via the land border that separates the European territory from Morocco is normally kept in check with security measures like high, razor-topped fences, with border control officers from both countries working together to keep undocumented migrants out. 

    Spain’s autonomous cities of Ceuta and Melilla, in Northern Africa, are favored by migrants seeking to enter Europe | Pierre-Philippe Marcou/AFP

    But in recent years authorities in Morocco have expressed displeasure with their Spanish counterparts by standing down their officers and allowing hundreds of migrants to pass, overwhelming border stations and forcing Spanish officers to repel the migrants, with scores dying in the process

    The headaches caused by these incidents are believed to be a major factor in Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez’s decision to change the Spanish government’s position on the disputed Western Sahara territory and express support for Rabat’s plan to formalize its nearly 50-year occupation of the area. 

    The pivot angered Sánchez’s leftist allies and worsened Spain’s relationship with Algeria, a long-standing champion of Western Saharan independence. But the measures have stopped the flow of migrants — for now.

    Kyriakos Mitsotakis, Greece

    Greece has been at the forefront of Europe’s migration crisis since 2015, when hundreds of thousands of people entered Europe via the Aegean islands. Migration and border security have been key issues in the country’s political debate.

    Human rights organizations, as well as the European Parliament and the European Commission, have accused the Greek conservative government of Kyriakos Mitsotakis of illegal “pushbacks” of migrants who have made it to Greek territory — and of deporting migrants without due process. Greece’s government denies those accusations, arguing that independent investigations haven’t found any proof.

    Mitsotakis insists that Greece follows a “tough but fair” policy, but the numerous in-depth investigations belie the moderate profile the conservative leader wants to maintain.

    Human rights organizations, as well as the European Parliament and the European Commission, have accused the Greek government of illegal “pushbacks” of migrants | John Thys/AFP via Getty Images

    In June, a migrant boat sank in what some called “the worst tragedy ever” in the Mediterranean Sea. Hundreds lost their lives, refocusing Europe’s attention on the issue. Official investigations have yet to discover whether failures by Greek authorities contributed to the shipwreck, according to Amnesty International and Human Rights Watch.

    In the meantime, Greece is in desperate need of thousands of workers to buttress the country’s understaffed agriculture, tourism and construction sectors. Despite pledges by the migration and agriculture ministers of imminent legislation bringing migrants to tackle the labor shortage, the government was forced to retreat amid pressure from within its own ranks.

    Nikos Christodoulides, Cyprus

    Cyprus is braced for an increase in migrant arrivals on its shores amid renewed conflict in the Middle East. Earlier in December, Greece sent humanitarian aid to the island to deal with an anticipated increase in flows.

    Cypriot President Nikos Christodoulides has called for extra EU funding for migration management, and is contending with a surge in violence against migrants in Cyprus. Analysts blame xenophobia, which has become mainstream in Cypriot politics and media, as well as state mismanagement of migration flows. Last year the country recorded the EU’s highest proportion of first-time asylum seekers relative to its population.

    Cypriot President Nikos Christodoulides has called for extra EU funding for migration management | Ludovic Marin/AFP via Getty Images

    Legal and staffing challenges have delayed efforts to create a deputy ministry for migration, deemed an important step in helping Cyprus to deal with the surge in arrivals. 

    The island’s geography — it’s close to both Lebanon and Turkey — makes it a prime target for migrants wanting to enter EU territory from the Middle East. Its complex history as a divided country also makes it harder to regulate migrant inflows.

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    Tim Ross, Annabelle Dickson, Clea Caulcutt, Myah Ward, Matthew Karnitschnig, Hannah Roberts, Pieter Haeck, Shawn Pogatchnik, Zi-Ann Lum, Aitor Hernández-Morales and Nektaria Stamouli

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