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  • How to Use Silica Gel for Drying Flowers (Step by Step!) – Garden Therapy

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    My secret to gorgeous, dried flowers? Silica gel, of course! I love using these dried flowers for my resin creations, but you can also use them for all kinds of décor, from shadow boxes to potpourri. With some delicate handling and these tips for drying flowers with silica gel, preserve the beauty of this season’s blooms.

    Ranunculus bloom dried by silica gel

    I’m excited to share yet another way to dry flowers that many aren’t as familiar with. Unlike hanging flowers to dry or dehydrating the petals, this method retains the shape and colour of the flowers extremely well. Sometimes they look identical to their original flower!

    You know all those little packets you get in your food containers and shoeboxes that read do not eat? That’s silica gel. In another form, this silica is actually marvelous at drying flowers.

    Silica gel is a desiccant, meaning it absorbs and holds moisture. For crafting purposes, they come in hard small beads that are a white or light blue colour. You can likely find silica gel at your local Michaels craft store and on Amazon.

    Using silica gel for drying flowers is fairly easy, but there’s definitely a technique to it that helps you achieve the best-dried flowers possible. Let me show you my tips!

    using silica gel for drying flowers using silica gel for drying flowers
    This button mum retained its structure perfectly when dried in silica.

    What Flowers Can I Preserve in Silica Gel?

    Most flowers dry very well in silica when done properly. But some are easier to dry than others! Bright and colourful blooms always dry best, as their colour remains fairly consistent throughout the drying process.

    using silica gel for drying flowersusing silica gel for drying flowers
    These silica-dried hawthorn flowers look nearly identical to their fresh counterparts.

    Fresh, locally grown flowers are also ideal. You want your flowers to be hydrated and in tip-top condition, since they will dry exactly as they are.

    Here are some flowers that are known to dry exceptionally well in silica:

    Drying flowers with silica gelDrying flowers with silica gel
    Silica dried flowers, including cherry blossoms, ranunculus, butterfly ranunculus, gerbera daisy, button mums, hawthorn, grape hyacinth, and lady’s mantle.

    Flowers to Avoid

    Flowers with lots of delicate petals are very difficult to dry in silica, as their petals are likely to fall off due to the weight of the gel. This includes mums, cosmos, and anemones.

    You may also want to curb your expectations when it comes to white flowers and other light colours, as they’re very prone to bruising, especially if you plan to preserve your flowers in resin afterward. They’re also very likely to change colour, turning more into cream and yellow than white.

    Wearing gloves when handling the flowers at all times will help prevent your oils from bruising the petals down the line.

    Tropical flowers and anything with fleshy petals are also likely to develop some bruising and browning down the line. Most will change their colour during preservation. This includes orchids, classic lilies, and canna lilies.

    Even if the flowers are listed here, it doesn’t hurt to try! Experiment, practice, and be delicate with your blooms, and you just might have some success.

    silica gel dried hydrangea with some browning on topsilica gel dried hydrangea with some browning on top
    This white hydrangea turned cream and browned in the areas it wasn’t completely covered in silica gel.

    Drying Flowers With Silica Gel: Step by Step

    Drying flowers in silica is one of the best preservation methods, and it is fairly easy to do. Once you have the silica, you can use it multiple times to dry flowers all season long.

    Materials

    silica gel for drying flowerssilica gel for drying flowers
    I’ve used Ashland and Activa brand silica gel.

    Preparing Your Materials and Flowers

    Choose a container that’s deep enough to hold your flowers. You can also layer flowers if the container allows it. 2-4 inches is usually deep enough, since silica can be expensive, and I avoid using too much. A rectangular container is what I prefer to use, since it can hold more flowers. Your container should not be used for food storage after holding silica.

    Make sure your flowers aren’t wet and use a paper towel to dab off any remaining moisture. I allow my flowers to fully hydrate in a vase while the dew dries from the petals. And I snip the stems and moisture right off when I’m ready to dry them.

    When snipping the flowers for drying, leave a little bit of the stem behind. This will give you something to grab and hold onto besides the petals when removing the flowers from the silica.

    If you’re concerned about bruising, wear gloves when working with the flowers before, during, and after drying.

    silica gel flowers in containersilica gel flowers in container
    Make sure flower petals aren’t wet before drying them in silica gel.

    Drying Flowers With Silica Gel

    Before working with the silica, make sure to wear a mask. When pouring the silica, it creates a dust that you don’t want to breathe in. Gloves can also help prevent your hands from drying out and getting irritated.

    Add a base layer of silica gel to your container. You need enough to support the base of your flower stem. About ½ to 1 inch is enough.

    Nestle in your flower’s face up in the silica. The flowers can be close, but they should not be overlapping.

    silica gel flowers step 1: placing flowers in silica basesilica gel flowers step 1: placing flowers in silica base
    Make sure the flowers aren’t touching.

    Carefully pour in the silica (a Mason jar or pitcher can help give you more control). Flowers will dry exactly as they are buried in the silica, so you want to avoid dumping silica right into them, as they will get crushed. The goal is to bury each flower while maintaining its exact original shape.

    silica gel flowers step 2: pouring silica around flowerssilica gel flowers step 2: pouring silica around flowers
    Pour around the edges of the flowers first to support the petals.

    I like to pour around the outside, shaking the silica into place until the outside is fully supported before adding silica to the center. Shaking helps to get the silica into all the grooves and crevices.

    silica gel flowers step 3: pouring silica in center of flowerssilica gel flowers step 3: pouring silica in center of flowers
    Fill in the center and all the gaps, but be careful not to dump and lose the flower’s structure.

    Make sure to fully cover your flowers with silica, or you may end up with browning (see the cream hydrangea photo earlier). You can layer as many flowers as your container fits, as long as the flowers aren’t touching. Put heavier blooms on the bottom and more delicate blooms on top.

    silica gel flowers step 4: completely cover flowers with silicasilica gel flowers step 4: completely cover flowers with silica
    Fully cover flowers in silica.

    Cover with an airtight lid, and label what flowers are inside as well as the date.

    silica gel flowers step 5: place airtight container lidsilica gel flowers step 5: place airtight container lid
    Seal with an airtight lid.

    Removing the Silica Gel

    Most instructions that come with your silica gel will say you only need a few days to a week for your flowers to fully dry. This is not long enough in almost any case.

    I leave my flowers in silica for a minimum of three weeks, or longer if I’m working with larger flowers (such as roses), since they contain a lot of moisture. It’s impossible to leave flowers in silica for too long. Longer is better than not enough.

    If there is any soft texture, your flowers aren’t ready. They should feel like paper and be extremely light.

    silica gel flowers step 6: carefully pour out silica into separate containersilica gel flowers step 6: carefully pour out silica into separate container
    Carefully pour out the silica rather and avoid pulling out the flowers.

    To remove your flowers, gently pour your silica into another bowl or container slowly. Do not dump it all at once. Gently catch the flowers as they fall out, holding onto the stem rather than the petals.

    Hold the flower upside down and gently tap to help get rid of the remaining silica. Use a soft paint brush or makeup brush to remove any stubborn silica pieces.

    silica gel flowers step 7: gently remove flowers from basesilica gel flowers step 7: gently remove flowers from base
    Grab flowers from the base and the stem to keep the petals intact.

    Using Your Silica Gel Flowers

    I dry flowers in silica to use for resin. They must be fully dry, or they will rot in the resin. If I don’t use them right away after removing them from the silica, I’ll place them back in the container with a thin layer of fresh silica at the bottom. The flowers don’t need to be fully covered in silica once they’re fully dry.

    Other than resin, you can also use them for many other projects (they don’t have to be stored in silica once dried. That’s only for resin projects.)

    Here are some project ideas for silica gel flowers!

    hand holding resin globe containing a cherry blossom dried in silica gelhand holding resin globe containing a cherry blossom dried in silica gel
    resin globe containing a cherry blossom dried in silica gelresin globe containing a cherry blossom dried in silica gel
    My preserved cherry blossom in a resin globe.

    Silica Gel Flowers FAQ

    How long do silica gel flowers last?

    While I wouldn’t say these flowers last forever, they do last for a very long time when done right. If they begin to change shape shortly after being removed from the silica, then they were not in there long enough.

    Your flowers should last you a minimum of a year, and can go onwards to last for a decade. Like any dried flower, their colour will begin to fade. To prolong their life, keep them away from sunlight, heat, and moist areas.

    How do I preserve a rose with silica gel?

    Roses dry extremely well in silica gel. They do contain a lot of moisture, especially the center, so you need to leave them in the silica for at least 3 weeks to ensure they fully dry.

    Some people will remove the center petals to prevent the flower from browning or rotting. Personally, I skip this step and just make sure to carefully fill all the nooks and crannies of the rose to ensure the silica absorbs all the moisture.

    Can I reuse silica?

    Yes! Fresh silica is the strongest and can be used a few times before it needs to be recharged. While each brand varies, usually the colour will change when it’s no longer able to absorb any more moisture.

    To recharge your silica, it should be placed on a baking tray and left in the oven at 250°F for a minimum of five hours. However, check the instructions of your silica gel to see their recommendations.

    Silica should be recharged after every use for best results.

    How to preserve flowers with silica gelHow to preserve flowers with silica gel
    Silica gel dried flowers.

    Get creative with your flowers, experiment, and have fun! Let me know if you have any questions about using silica gel for drying flowers in the comments below.

    More Tips for Drying Flowers

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    Holly Heuver

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  • How to Compost – the Easy Way! – Garden Therapy

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    Composting is an environmentally friendly way to improve your garden soil and reduce waste. Yard waste and table scraps can make up a large part of household garbage which could be turned into nutrient-rich amendments for your garden with the right compost recipe. Here’s everything you need to know to learn how to compost properly.

    Even if you only have a small garden, learning how to compost is one of the most important activities you can do to save money and prevent waste from unnecessarily ending up in a landfill.

    Some people mistakenly assume that compostable materials thrown in the garbage will break down and feed the soil in the landfill. But throwing vegetable and garden scraps in the trash means they will be surrounded by garbage and not have the proper recipe to decompose. Instead, it releases harmful methane gas into the environment.

    Composting isn’t difficult, but it isn’t as simple as just throwing your kitchen scraps and garden cuttings into a heap and checking on it a year later. Eventually, those items will break down and create compost, but it is much faster, cleaner, and more effective when you know the proper compost recipe.

    So, let’s learn how to compost, shall we?

    This post will cover…

    Compost recipe: energy materials, bulking agents, air, and water. Compost recipe: energy materials, bulking agents, air, and water.
    The key components of successful composting.

    How to Make Compost

    Healthy compost results from a combination of four ingredients: greens, browns, air, and moisture.

    1. Greens (Energy Materials)

    Add 1 part of greens. Green compost ingredients are those with higher nitrogen content, such as grass clippings, kitchen scraps, and garden trimmings.

    These materials rot quickly and contain the compounds needed for fast microbial growth. They are usually quite wet and heavy and can get stinky fast unless you balance them with enough brown material.

    2. Browns (Bulking Agents)

    Add 2-3 parts of browns. Brown compost ingredients are those with higher carbon content, such as paper, shredded woody material, and straw.

    Browns are dry and bulky, allowing air to reach the greens. They do not decay rapidly without greens because they do not hold enough moisture.

    Are Fallen Leaves a “Brown” for Composting?

    Colour alone is not a good indication of what is considered brown materials. Deciduous leaves that have fallen and turned brown, as well as chopped-up tree and shrub clippings, have higher nitrogen balance than true “browns.”

    Leaves and chopped-up clippings are excellent for compost and can decompose readily on their own, without needing additional greens or browns. You can choose to compost these materials from the garden on their own or mixed in with the 1 part green / 2-3 part brown mixture.

    Just be sure not to replace the browns with fallen leaves, or your compost will be too wet and stinky.

    fallen leaves for compost recipefallen leaves for compost recipe
    Colour alone does not indicate whether it is a “green” or “brown” compost ingredient.

    3. Air

    Packing layers of green and brown materials into a compost bin will not make compost alone. Air needs to be introduced by turning the compost with a fork, an aeration tool, or a rolling composter.

    As the microbes work to break down the materials, the compost heap will become warm. The heat in the middle of the pile can reach up to 150 degrees F.

    Turning the compost once a week should be plenty, but to speed up the process, mix the compost every few days to introduce more air and move materials from the edges to the middle.

    4. Moisture

    Moisture is also necessary to give the microbes the best possible conditions to break down the material. After adding the materials, water the compost pile and mix it well. It should be damp but not soggy. In dry months, you may have to add water, and in wet months, you may have to protect the compost from rain.

    Handful of compostHandful of compost
    You don’t want dry not do you want sopping wet compost.

    How Do I Use Compost?

    Now that you know how simple it is to make compost, let’s chat about what you actually do with it.

    I love the look and feel of compost. It’s rich, black, light, and fluffy to the touch. When I pick it up, I just know that it will be pure gold for my plants and my garden.

    Creating your compost rather than buying it means you’ll have more of the specific nutrients and organisms that your plants and soil need. You can use it as a soil amendment, fertilizer, and as mulch.

    Amend soil with compost manually or more often when you have compost readily available. Spread compost in a thick layer over the soil when the garden is not productive. Compost doesn’t need to be scratched in or turned into the top layer of the soil.

    Turning the compost in only disturbs the network of microorganisms already living in the soil. Better yet, add compost directly over the mulch layer that protects soil and decomposes itself.

    When I’m adding a new plant to the garden, I also like to mix in a little bit of compost at the bottom of the hole I dug to give the plant an extra boost of nutrients. I really never use fertilizer for my garden plants, instead opting for compost.

    You can also make a compost tea. This is a liquid made from steeping or brewing your compost in water to extract beneficial organisms and water-soluble nutrients. Then, it’s applied as a foliar spray to help with plant diseases or as a soil drench, which applies diluted concentrations of soil microorganisms and nutrients.

    Choosing a Compost Bin

    Compost bins are another major part of learning how to compost. You need to find the right bin to suit your needs; one won’t work for everyone. It depends on your available space and how much compost you’ll need.

    You can have one big compost bin or many small ones. The goal is to ensure it’s accessible and easy to add and aerate.

    One of my personal favourites is a vermicomposting bin. These work great for small spaces and those who want a closed system. It relies almost entirely on the power of worms, and you’ll get some pretty amazing organic matter for your soil.

    Here are some other options for compost bins:

    • Electric composters are great for those in apartments with minimal or no deck space.
    • Compost piles where you simply pile it all together are great for homesteads with lots of need and space.
    • Wood slat bins help to keep things contained and aerated if critters are not a problem.
    • If critters are a problem, critter-proof bins with lids are good for urban areas.
    • Rolling composters are also good for urban areas with their closed bins. The bin rolls to help compost degrade faster.

    What Will Make Compost Break Down Faster?

    Some materials are full of microbes, bacteria, fungi, soil insects, mites, and worms that will speed up the decomposition process. Add just a small portion of one of these compost amendments to really get the party started.

    Compost bin filled with homemade compostCompost bin filled with homemade compost
    A compost pile can be this simple, as long as you regularly aerate it and watch its moisture levels.

    What Should You Not Put in Compost?

    Not everything can go in your home compost bin, although some of these can go in city or county large-scale industrial compost bins where the temperatures are consistently hot enough to kill pathogens and seeds.

    Before you compost these items, be sure to check your local composting regulations.

    • Pesticides and herbicides – Keep your garden healthy without introducing pesticides and herbicides into the compost bin.
    • Compostable grocery bags – These should not go in your home compost bin despite the name. Use brown paper bags instead.
    • Evergreen clippings – Some evergreens take a long time to compost at home, and some resins can slow down and/or inhibit the composting process.
    • Meat, bones, dairy, or animal product food scraps – The home compost doesn’t get hot enough to break these down effectively, and it will attract pests, like rats, to the compost pile.
    • Pet waste – Dog and cat poop can carry pathogens that could be transferred to the soil.
    • Diseased plant material – Diseased or infested plants may perpetuate the incidence of disease and pests in future years.
    • Weeds that have gone to seed – Compost may not get hot enough to sterilize weed seeds.
    • Large logs, thorny branches – Big, woody items will be too large to break down. Chip or grind all large, woody materials instead.
    • Poison ivy, invasive weeds, and other noxious plants – Don’t risk spreading these plants by composting them.
    compost tumblercompost tumbler
    This compost tumbler was the solution to stopping rats from invading my compost bin.

    Composting Shouldn’t Be Gross

    If you think composting is yucky or dirty, you aren’t doing it right! Compost should smell fresh, sweet, and earthy. Overly stinky compost is not properly balanced, but it is an easy fix.

    Too many greens in your compost will become soggy and smell bad. Compost can also start to stink when it is too wet. In both cases, adding more brown materials and turning your compost to introduce air will help to remedy the problem.

    Fruit Flies, Maggots, and Rats, Goodbye!

    While composting aims to attract insects and fungi to your compost bin, you shouldn’t need to fight off an army of critters to get into the compost. The best defense against an overly active compost bin is, again, balance.

    If you follow this compost recipe and keep a layer of brown on top of the compost, you will only attract those critters that will work for you to make healthy, nutritious compost.

    using compost for soil regenerationusing compost for soil regeneration
    Compost shouldn’t be overly stinky or attract pests.

    Frequently Asked Questions About How to Compost

    How long does it take to make compost?

    Compost can take as little as four weeks to make or as long as a year. Ultimately, the more work you put in, the faster your compost degrades. While you can just toss everything together in a heap and wait a year, you can speed up the process.

    If you work to accelerate and aerate your compost bin, you will have compost quickly. Quick composting is when you accelerate compost by adding plants.

    Traditionally, this combines dried nettle, dandelion, chamomile, yarrow, valerian, and oak bark. The plants are dried, crushed into a powder, and sprinkled on layers between compost. This will give you compost in 4-6 weeks.

    What happens if you let compost sit too long?

    Generally, compost can sit for a long time without any worry. It won’t stink or rot when it’s properly taken care of by controlling the moisture levels.

    However, compost can lose potency over time. The nutrients leach, and the compost will turn finer and finer as the microorganisms get to work. Too much moisture can cause the compost to rot and grow fungi. And if your compost is in a pile and not in a bin, it could disappear altogether, becoming part of the soil.

    Should compost be in the sun or shade?

    Your compost will be okay in the sun or shade if you properly manage it. Sun speeds up the composting process since it raises the overall temperature. However, it will dry out faster. You may find that you need fewer carbon materials for bins in the sun and need to add water frequently.

    Compost bins in the shade will be prone to staying damp and won’t be as warm. In this case, you may need to aerate it more often and add more carbon materials to help accelerate it.

    Other Tips for Smart Composting

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • DIY Pumpkin Spice Candle in a Real Pumpkin – Garden Therapy

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    Without a doubt, pumpkin spice has taken the fall world by storm. I love the way it smells, instantly making me feel cozy and ready for the sweater weather season. This pumpkin spice candle is the embodiment of the seasonal favourite, filling your home with the signature scent in the cutest DIY pumpkin container.

    Just about everywhere you turn in autumn, you will find pumpkin spice everything. I’m not just talking about coffee, either. From lip balm to car diffusers, to yes, candles, pumpkin spice is in the air! You can easily make your own DIY pumpkin spice candle using a signature blend of oils and a tiny pumpkin itself.

    A candle burning is much more up my alley when it comes to pumpkin spice. The warm notes of cinnamon, ginger, clove, cardamom, and orange are perfect for the fall. They fill the house with coziness and allow you to settle into shorter days and longer nights.

    It’s a scent combination that doesn’t feel as comfortable in the spring and summer, so enjoy it while you can. This pumpkin spice candle is a celebration that is meant to be enjoyed before the season passes.

    This pumpkin candle is one of many fun and unique candle projects that come from my book, Make & Give Home Candle Making. All of the 12 artisan-inspired projects are designed to help you learn your own candle-making techniques so you can make your own beautiful creations.

    This post will cover…

    pumpkin spice candlespumpkin spice candles
    While I chose tiny pumpkins as my candle vessel, you can use this recipe for any vessel.

    Thank you to Leisure Arts for providing these photos of the pumpkin spice candles from the book.

    Can You Use Essential Oils in Candles?

    Candle scent is differentiated by hot throw (the scent that a candle gives off when burned) and cold throw (the scent that an unlit candle gives off). Both essential oils and fragrance oils can be used to scent your candles; however, I prefer essential oils.

    Essential oils are natural scents extracted from plants, and they are sometimes better tolerated by people with scent sensitivities or allergies. Used in aromatherapy, they have different healing effects (such as relaxation or focus) ascribed to the aromatic diffusion.

    Essential oils typically have an expected cold throw, but can be inconsistent with hot throw, as each oil type and oil manufacturer will produce oils with differing qualities.

    This is because some essential oils will evaporate at the high temperatures needed for binding the scent with the wax. When the candle cools, the scent could evaporate and leave the candle with very little scent. So when purchasing your essential oils, look for ones of high quality or designed specifically for use with candles.

    DIY pumpkin spice candleDIY pumpkin spice candle
    Essential oils can be better for those with scent sensitivities.

    How to Make Pumpkin Spice Scented Candles

    Now that you have the pumpkin spice candle fragrance all figured out, the next part is coming up with the cutest container. I love to use actual tiny pumpkins to make my candles.

    These pumpkin candles are ideal for entertaining or giving as gifts, as they last as long as the pumpkin. Since pumpkin spice is such a short-lived scent for the fall, it works out well!

    When using perishables as a candle container, it’s best to choose the fruits before they completely ripen, so they last as long as possible after pouring the candle.

    Make the candle just before you give it as a gift or use it at a party. The wax will seal the open flesh and prevent some decomposition. Use a wood slice or a plate under the candle to protect the surface below, and never leave a burning candle unattended.

    There are a whole host of wonderful natural containers like citrus rinds, apples, gourds (like these festive tealight candles), and pumpkins that can be used to make a container candle. So let your imagination go wild!

    3 gourds that have candles burning in the middle of them3 gourds that have candles burning in the middle of them
    Gourd tealights.

    DIY Pumpkin Spice Candle

    Makes one 8 oz (225g) candle

    Usher in autumn with the signature pumpkin spice scent. This pumpkin candle project is meant to be used soon after it is made because the container is a real pumpkin, and therefore perishable.

    Materials

    For exact measurements, see the instruction card below.

    Jump to Recipe

    pumpkin candlepumpkin candle
    Baby boo pumpkins are the small white ones, and are what I used for this project.

    Equipment

    Make It!

    Prepare the pumpkin as if you were making a small jack-o-lantern: use a paring knife to cut into the pumpkin and remove the top; then use a tablespoon or melon baller to scrape out the seeds and fibers.

    scooping out pumpkin gutsscooping out pumpkin guts
    Make the opening as wide as you want your candle to be.

    Weigh the soy wax and add it to a double boiler on medium heat.

    When the melted wax has reached the specified temperature for adding essential oil (e.g., 160°F – see the instructions that came with your wax), add the essential oils. Stir well to bind.

    Cool the wax to 140°F and pour it into the pumpkin.

    pumpkin candle with hot waxpumpkin candle with hot wax
    Let the wax cool slightly before pouring it into your pumpkin.

    When the candle wax starts to turn opaque, insert the wick. Use the chopsticks to hold the wick in place as the candle cools. Wrap the candle in a towel and place it in a warm room to slowly set.

    pumpkin candle coolingpumpkin candle cooling
    Chopsticks help to hold the wick in place.

    Allow the candle to cure for 24 hours undisturbed. Once cured, trim the wick with scissors to ¼ inch above the surface of the wax.

    mini pumpkin with candle in the middle of itmini pumpkin with candle in the middle of it

    Make this pumpkin candle the day before you intend to gift it, and with the understanding that the recipient will use it soon after receiving it. Place the pumpkin on a wood slice or a pretty ceramic plate and wrap it with a linen bow. Attach a little tag with coordinating baker’s twine.

    pumpkin spice candlepumpkin spice candle
    A wood slice below helps to protect the surface below the pumpkin as it slowly decomposes.

    Pumpkin Spice Candle FAQ

    How long will the pumpkin last?

    Once cut, I  find the pumpkin lasts about one week. So this is meant to be enjoyed right away! To help prolong the life of the pumpkin, keep it cool when not in use (such as in the fridge).

    The wood slice beneath the pumpkin acts as a barrier for the bottom of the pumpkin, since that’s where it will tend to decompose first.

    What is in pumpkin spice?

    When making the best-smelling pumpkin spice candle out there, the best way to achieve enough fragrance is by using essential oils (no, not the actual pumpkin spice mixture you get at the grocery store!). For my pumpkin candles, I use an essential oil blend of cardamom, orange, cinnamon bark, clove, and ginger.

    More Ways to Add Scent to Your Home

    DIY Pumpkin Spice Candle

    This recipe makes one 8 oz pumpkin spice candle in a miniature pumpkin container.

    • Carve out the inside of the pumpkin like you would a jack-o-lantern. Use the paring knife to cut open into the pumpkin and then use the melon baller to scrape out the guts.

    • Use the kitchen scale to weigh your soy wax. On medium heat, add it to the double boiler.

    • Wait until the wax has reached the required melting temperature to add the essential oils (it should say on the package). Add in the essential oils and stir well.

    • Let the wax cool to 140°F and then pour it inside the pumpkin.

    • When the candle wax turns opaque in color, insider the wick and use the chopsticks to hold it in place. To slowly set the candle, wrap the candle in a towel and place it in a warm room.

    • Let the candle sit for 24 hours. Trim the wick to 1/4 inch above the wax.

    • Gift right away as the pumpkin is perishable. To protect the surface, place a decorative wood slice or ceramic plate below the candle while burning.

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Grow These Perennials for Brilliant Fall-Blooming Flowers

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    If you have always associated fall with the end of the growing season, you’ve got to give these fall-blooming flowers a try. Keep reading to learn about the fall blooms that will add pretty splashes of colour to your garden this year.

    Chrysanthemum flower

    I’m always amazed by the fall-blooming flowers in my garden that look so colourful well into autumn. These powerhouse plants have the colour to back up their efforts—they are as brilliant in hue as they are strong in stem.

    Fall-blooming flowers provide such a show in the garden for us gardeners, but also are an essential food source for our winged friends, bees, and other pollinators.

    Here are the fall-blooming flowers I’ll be talking about today!

    green-eyed susans thrive in sungreen-eyed susans thrive in sun
    Green-eyed susans are a fall-blooming flower.

    What Flowers Bloom in the Fall?

    I’ve always felt that fall gets a bit shortchanged. People always think of spring when they imagine colourful blooms, but fall has so much more than just muted shades of orange and brown to offer! With a little foresight, your garden will be bursting with colours this season. Here are some of my favourite flowers that bloom in the fall.

    Fall Asters (Asteraceae spp.)

    Asters are what many people first think of for fall-blooming flowers. They are a huge genus of plants that love full sun and shorter days for prolific blooming. In colder climates, they bloom well into October.

    Fall asters can range in height from small 1-foot-tall plants to huge 8-foot-tall monsters! Mostly, you will find a large 3ft spread that runs 3-4ft tall. Shop around for a variety and colour that works best in your garden for a lot of late-season blooms.

    Purple fall asters blooming in a fall gardenPurple fall asters blooming in a fall garden
    There are many different types of asters in a variety of colour palettes.

    Hardy Mums (Chrysanthemum morifolium)

    You know fall is on the way when the mums are out in front of every shop on the block! Hardy mums overwinter in Zones 5-9 and do well in containers (try planting them in a pumpkin) or in a garden bed.

    Their cheerful, bright flowers bloom and bloom and bring a kick of colour to the fall garden. Mums are available in practically every colour imaginable, and they make a lovely addition to any garden space.

    To get mums that have been in the garden all summer to produce more flowers in the fall, give them a good cut back in mid-to-late summer and watch them get their second wind. Deadhead flowers as they begin to fade, which will encourage more to appear.

    You can learn about how to care for mums and extend their life here!

    Lavender mumsLavender mums
    Mums are prolific bloomers, making them popular choices for containers.

    Purple Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

    Purple coneflower has big, dramatic, purple petals and a large orange center cone. It will begin flowering in June in zones 4-8 and will continue right up until the first frost hits.

    After the temperatures drop and purple coneflowers stop producing flowers, the seed heads are very ornamental, and they provide food for local birds to munch on all winter long.

    They may be considered a summer bloomer, but if you prune echinacea in the summer, then you will have blooms into fall.

    echinacea blooming in the garden in the fallechinacea blooming in the garden in the fall
    Deadhead echinacea blooms in the summer to keep them blooming into the fall.

    Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’

    These stunning, sculptural plants will begin to bloom in late summer and continue on well into autumn, as their name suggests. They are hardy and drought-resistant, which is a blessing during the hot, dry days of late summer.

    Their foliage is pretty by itself and can be green, burgundy, variegated, or even black. The large clustered flower heads begin green, then turn to pink, and then to a stunning shade of deep red. Harvest the flowers and dry them for a beautiful and lasting dried arrangement.

    Sedum 'Autumn Joy' Sedum 'Autumn Joy'
    Sedum are also drought tolerant.

    Sneezeweed (Helenium autumnale)

    I know, I know, “sneezeweed” doesn’t exactly sound like something you want in your garden, but don’t let the name put you off—this plant actually produces gorgeous fall flowers in variegated hues of red, orange, and yellow. And, no, they don’t make you sneeze, either.

    Give them full sun, and these fall-blooming flowers will grow large and yield a ton of beautiful blossoms.

    Bee flying away from fall-blooming flowers, sneezeweedBee flying away from fall-blooming flowers, sneezeweed
    Sneezeweed is known for being a late bloomer, providing plenty of golden hues.

    Black-Eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta)

    These old garden favourites start flowering in the summer and continue well into fall. Black-eyed Susans grow about 18-24” tall and can even become shrub-shaped when thriving. Their golden yellow petals and black or dark brown center cones lend a beautiful contrast to the fall garden.

    These flowers require minimal care, making them an easy choice for both beginner and more seasoned gardeners alike. To extend their blooming and increase blooms, deadhead the flowers.

    Black-eyed susansBlack-eyed susans
    Black-eyed susans are hardy perennials.

    Speedwell (Veronica)

    Speedwell’s vibrant flower spikes are most commonly a beautiful shade of blue-ish purple, but there are also pink and white varieties. Speedwell likes well-draining soil and will bloom prolifically until the first frost of the season hits. Keep the flowers blooming longer by pinching off any wilted blooms.

    It’s worth noting that the Veronica species of Speedwell is edible. It can be used in tea to help alleviate allergies and asthma. The dried flowers can also be added to a lotion or balm to help soothe coughing.

    SpeedwellSpeedwell
    Veronica comes in many hues of purple to indigo.

    Honourable Mention: Coral Bells (Heuchera)

    Fall-blooming flowers aren’t the only thing you can plant to liven up the autumn garden. Coral bells’ decorative foliage in hues of red, green, purple, pink, yellow, and orange changes colour and gets more intense as the temperature cools.

    If you are lucky enough to live in zones 5-9, you can enjoy Heuchera all year long. Plant in sun or shade and enjoy the show!

    Colorful Heuchera blooming in a fall container gardenColorful Heuchera blooming in a fall container garden
    Plant coral bells in your containers as well!

    As you can see, the end of summer doesn’t mean the end of your beautiful garden! Don’t let spring have all the fun this year. Fill your beds with these hardy fall-blooming flowers and give your garden a second wind.  You won’t regret it.

    More Tips for Fall Gardening

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • How to Plant Fall Bulbs for Long-Lasting Spring Colour – Garden Therapy

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    The spring garden is a joyous sight full of colour and happy blooms, many of which come from bulbs (or corms and tubers) that are planted in the fall. Spring gardening may be the last thing on your mind while you are busily tending to autumn chores, but take a bit of time to plant some fall bulbs, and I know you will be thanking me next year for this little reminder!

    Anemone photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu

    Fall bulbs are also known as spring-flowering bulbs. The two terms are used interchangeably, and both are technically correct as the bulbs are available for sale and planted in the fall, but they flower in the spring.

    There are also a number of lovely bulbs you plant in the spring for summer blooms. These would be most accurately called summer flowering bulbs, as it could be too confusing to call them spring bulbs.

    No matter what you call them, they make wonderful garden decoration and cut flowers to bring inside the house. They are easy to plant, and if they are happy in the spot you’ve put them in, they will come back year after year (in most cases).

    Really, what’s not to love?

    The only caveat is that you need to REMEMBER to plant them in the fall because they require a period of cold temperatures to stimulate root development. I think that’s why I’ve always heard them called “fall bulbs;” from the messaging that is out there reminding us gardeners to get planting the bulbs that will grow our spring flowers.

    Let me show you how to plant them!

    partially blooming flower bulb on scoop of soilpartially blooming flower bulb on scoop of soil
    Is the bulb already starting to bloom? It’s ready to go in the soil!

    What’s in a Name? Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

    Flower “bulb” is the commonly used term for a swollen underground plant part, such as a true bulb, corm, or tuber. While it’s not unusual to group these types of plants together because they share similar planting and storage characteristics, it can be helpful to know the difference when cultivating the different types of plants.

    Flowerbulb.eu helps to clarify more for us, “Technically speaking, many popular ‘bulb” flowers are not produced from true flower bulbs at all. Crocuses and gladioli, for example, are really corms, while such favourites as dahlias and begonias are really tubers. The main distinguishing trait is their method of storing food. In corms, most of the food is stored in an enlarged basal plate rather than the fleshy scales, which in corms are much smaller.”

    Cutting tulip bulbs and packagesCutting tulip bulbs and packages
    Tulips are true bulbs.

    Planting and Caring for Fall Bulbs

    This guide will cover when to plant spring-flowering bulbs, how to plant them, watering needs, overwintering, and designing your bulb garden.

    tulip in flowertulip in flower
    Tulips can be perennials or annuals, depending on what kind you buy,

    When to Plant Spring Flowering Fall Bulbs

    Spring-flowering bulbs get planted sometime in the fall, but the timing varies for each type of flower. As a general rule, plant them as early in the fall as you can so that the bulbs have a chance to develop a strong root system. At the very latest, they must go into the ground before the last frost.

    If you’re buying your bulbs from a mail-order company, they won’t ship them out until the ideal planting time for your area, so the work is usually done for you.

    If you are purchasing bulbs from a garden centre, they will often stock them a bit earlier than the ideal planting date and continue selling them until they are sold out, possibly long after frost. Be sure to thoroughly read the instructions and timing for planting the individual bulbs to get the best results.

    It’s best to plant bulbs as soon as they arrive in the mail or you pick them up at the garden center. If you have to delay planting for some reason, then store them in a dry, cool location, out of direct sunlight, where temperatures are between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

    handful of crocus bulbshandful of crocus bulbs
    Bulbs need to go in the ground before the first frost.

    How to Plant Bulbs

    Your bulbs should come with full instructions for how to plant them, but for some general guidelines, here are some professional planting tips from FlowerBulbs.com.

    SPONSORED CONTENT: The following excerpt is reprinted with permission, and some of the photos in this post are courtesy of FlowerBulbs.com, a fantastic source of information on flower bulbs.

    “Most spring-flowering Dutch flower bulbs will thrive in either full or partial sun, but will do just fine in almost any location that offers good drainage. Flower bulbs will rot in standing water, so avoid areas prone to flooding, such as at the bottom of slopes or under drainage pipes.

    After choosing the site:

    • Dig either a trench for a bed planting or individual holes for individual flower bulbs or a small cluster of flower bulbs. To determine how deep to plant, consider the diameter or size of the flower bulb. Large flower bulbs (2 inches across or more) are usually planted about 6 inches deep; smaller-sized flower bulbs (1 inch) are planted 3-4 inches deep.
    • Loosen the soil with a rake to aerate it and also remove any weeds and small stones. Mix in a bit of compost to improve soil drainage. Place, do not push, bulbs firmly in the soil with the pointed side up. Space large bulbs 3-8 inches apart and small bulbs 1-3 inches apart. (If you’re not sure which end is right side up, don’t worry. Upside-down flower bulbs usually come up anyway!)
    • Cover the flower bulbs with soil and then water generously if the soil is not yet moist. Add 2-3 inches of mulch on top of the garden bed. This will provide added protection from the cold and keep the soil from drying out.”
    Stephanie with the power planterStephanie with the power planter
    A power planter can help speed up individual bulb plantings.

    Designing With Spring Flowering Bulbs

    Now, let’s look at how to design with bulbs in the garden.

    Note: spring-flowering bulbs are also wonderful when planted in pots. Get some inspiration and read more on How to Plant and Overwinter Spring-Flowering Bulbs in Pots.

    Just as there are many garden styles, there are many different ways of planting bulbs in your garden. They can be scattered throughout the beds, popping up between perennials and shrubs. They can create a decorative border lining a walkway or framing evergreen garden features. Or they can be layered so that you have intentional waves of blooms producing consistently over many months.

    Scattering Bulbs Throughout the Garden

    Spring-flowering bulbs are the perfect way to add some lively colour to a garden filled with perennials, shrubs, and trees that are dormant in the winter. While the perennials and shrubs are beginning to set out new shoots and leaves, strategically-placed bulbs fill in the spaces.

    Choose bulbs that bloom at the times when your perennial trees and shrubs are dormant. Then plant them in groups of five to seven around the roots of the dormant plants.

    To allow the bulbs to naturalize with the existing plants, be sure to plant in the loose soil near the plants and mark the spot so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs up when dividing the perennials.

    tulips and grape hyacinth in bloomtulips and grape hyacinth in bloom
    Some spring bulbs bloom before the trees and shrubs above them leaf out, meaning they get more sunlight than you might think. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.

    Planting Bulbs in a Border

    A border of fall bulbs is a lovely way to line a walkway or the front of a garden bed. The placement of these bulbs is the opposite of planting them above the roots of perennials and shrubs. Instead, you will plant these deeper in the soil and add annuals above them to fill in those months when they are not blooming.

    These bulbs are planted in the fall, at which time you can plant fall annuals in the soil above. In the spring, the bulbs will bloom, and when they die back, the soil above can be planted again with summer annuals.

    how to plant fall bulbshow to plant fall bulbs
    Plant fall annuals at the same time so you don’t accidentally dig up your bulbs. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.

    Layering Bulbs

    Layering fall bulbs refers to planting different types of flower bulbs at different depths in the soil to stagger the bloom times and increase the number of flowers that you can get in a small space. Many refer to this as planting flower bulb lasagna.

    To layer fall bulbs, select a combination of bulbs that will do well in similar conditions, but that have different bloom times, heights, and decorative features like colour.

    Plant the bulbs at the recommended planting depth, which will usually be planting larger bulbs into the ground around 6 to 8 inches deep, medium bulbs above them at 3 to 5 inches deep, and the smallest in the top 1 to 2 in of soil.

    Get detailed instructions, photos, and a DIY soil recipe in this post on Preparing Fall Bulb Planters for Spring.

    Crocus Bulbs in a PotCrocus Bulbs in a Pot
    Layering bulbs works really well in containers. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.

    Overwintering Fall Bulbs

    Spring-flowering fall bulbs will not only tolerate cool winter soil, but they need it in order to thrive. Many bulbs are tolerant of many different soil types as well, as much as what they need to grow is stored in the bulb. The biggest question that many people have about overwintering bulbs is whether to water them or not.

    The answer is, “not really.”

    Newly planted bulbs should be watered in the fall in an area that drains well. As the season cools, they do not need to be watered, but also don’t need to be protected from rain or snow as long as the bulbs you are choosing are suitable to plant in your climate and hardiness zone.

    As long as the soil is free-draining and they aren’t left sitting in standing water, they will be happily dormant until the spring. In spring, watering is only necessary if the soil is dry.

    Crocuses in the snowCrocuses in the snow
    Many bulbs are built to withstand the snow and cold, needing it to thrive.

    Hopefully you now have everything you need to get out there and plant some fall bulbs!  If you still have questions like, “do they need to be lifted out of the garden after blooming?” or “will deadheading increase blooms?” Flowerbulbs.com has some great answers to common questions about bulbs in their FAQ section.

    But Wait! There are More Bulbs to Love!

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Eco-Printing: How to Hammer Flowers Onto Fabric – Garden Therapy

    Eco-Printing: How to Hammer Flowers Onto Fabric – Garden Therapy

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    Flower pounding is one form of eco-printing that is just so much fun! It’s the perfect way to preserve the beauty and colour of a summer garden, and it is such an interesting art form to try. Here’s how you can try imprinting flowers onto fabric for some colourful and unique designs.

    Flower pounding, plant bashing, eco printing. This art form has many different names. Its origin can be traced back to Japan, where it is known as Tataki-zomé (literally translated as hammering dye).

    Eco-printing is rising in popularity, where people you use the marks and imprints of flowers and leaves to make patterns on fabric and paper. While there are many forms of eco-printing, such as bundling fabric and placing it in a steam bath, I prefer flower pounding!

    This year, I went to the Northwest Flower and Garden Show and did a whole session on eco-printing. In my first book, Garden Made, I talked all about flower pounding. I used to also do it while volunteering as a Master Gardener with children. For them, we would print on cards or fabric and give them rocks to pound the flowers.

    Flower pounding has evolved much since as it has grown in popularity, and so has my style!

    While it may seem as simple as pounding flowers into the fabric, there’s actually quite a bit of preparation that goes into the fabric to get it to stick.

    Don’t worry, I’m going to break down everything for you!

    eco-printing hammering flowerseco-printing hammering flowers
    Thinner fabric will give you a more watery effect.

    Does Eco-Printing Actually Work?

    I’ve done a bunch of courses on how to prepare fabric properly, and it’s definitely a process. One thing I will say is that I’m not a textile artist. This tutorial is great for beginners. If you really want to get into it, I would definitely follow a textile artist for more information (I really like Maiwa as a resource!)

    The key to getting the design to stick is how you treat your fabric beforehand. When I was doing my presentation at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show, I didn’t want to focus on the fabric preparation component of it. I wanted to focus on the design and artistry instead.

    Northwest Flower and Garden Show people hammering flowersNorthwest Flower and Garden Show people hammering flowers
    People working on the community tablecloth at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show.

    I came in with the fabric prepared and set up at the DIY stage. What I didn’t anticipate was that nearly 800 people would show up to see me bang some flowers. It was completely insane!

    So to demonstrate it, I set up a community cloth. I got one big tablecloth and invited everybody up to come and try their hand at printing themselves. It turned into a really fun afternoon.

    Stephanie selfie with crowd at the Northwest Flower and Garden ShowStephanie selfie with crowd at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show
    The crowd at the Northwest Flower and Garden Show.
    eco-printed tablecloth setupeco-printed tablecloth setup
    The finished community tablecloth.

    Which Flowers to Use in Eco-Printing

    Certain flowers and colours will work really well for printing. Here are a few that I’ve tried myself and had success with.

    Your best bet is to just try all kinds of different flowers. Some will be gushy and have lots of pigment, which means they can look more like splatters. Others will hold their shape, while others will change colour quite a bit.

    Test the flowers on a piece of test fabric first so you know what to expect. The flowers will also look different depending on the type of fabric you use.

    flowers for eco printingflowers for eco printing
    Five-spot and baby blue-eyes.

    Choose Your Fabric

    For fabric, you’ll want to use something that is plant-based (as opposed to animal or synthetic). This can include fibres like cotton, linen, ramie, and hemp.

    The thinner the fabric, the more pigment from the flowers will bleed. You’ll get less clean or straight lines of the flowers. So if you use something like muslin, it will bleed.

    Think about the tightness of the weave. Something like cotton is a good middle ground. It gets a bit of that watercolour effect but still holds together well.

    Meanwhile, if you go for something thicker and with a tight weave, like a canvas, it won’t bleed much at all. But on the other hand, it takes a lot of pigment to transfer into it.

    primula flower print from eco-printingprimula flower print from eco-printing
    I used lightweight cotton for my test designs.

    You can try eco-printing on all kinds of natural fabrics with this in mind. You can make tote bags, napkins, scarves, bandanas, and all kinds of clothing.

    For me, I decided to make a community cloth. I brought out a big table cloth at the show, and gave everybody all kinds of flowers. Everybody started pounding different flowers and making their own designs.

    It’s definitely not perfection, but it looked quite beautiful. I took it home and filled in some more spots, like adding a lily. I even invited some friends to give it a try at my house!

    fabric bundles for eco-printingfabric bundles for eco-printing
    Plant-based fabric is often referred to as cellulose fibres in the textile world.

    How to Prepare Your Fabric

    Before you can begin eco printing, you need to prepare the fabric. You’ll need to scour the fabric, which removes impurities such as oils, waxes, dirt, and more.

    These impurities won’t go away with regular washing, so it’s really important to scour your fabric first. This allows the fabric to accept and hold onto the dye so it doesn’t fade—and you can wash your fabric afterward!

    materials for eco-printingmaterials for eco-printing
    You’ll need a kitchen scale to weigh out your ingredients and fabric.

    Step 1: Scour Your Fabric

    Fill a large pot with water, enough to cover the fabric but not crowd it. For every 1 lb of fabric (450 g), add 2 tsp of synthrapol and 4 tsp of soda ash.

    Let the mixture simmer for about 1 hour. You’ll notice that the water will turn yellow-brown. This is all the impurities coming out!

    scouring fabric in pot over the stove for eco-printingscouring fabric in pot over the stove for eco-printing
    Bleached fabrics may not need to be scoured as long.

    Remove from heat and let the fibre cool completely. Then rinse in warm water. Don’t let dry because there’s more to do!

    Note: some fabrics may be marked as PFD (prepared for dying). They might not need to be scoured or only require a light scour instead.

    how to prepare fabric for eco-printinghow to prepare fabric for eco-printing
    Let your fabric cool before handling.

    Step 2: Tannin

    Plant fibres will also require a tannin to be added to assist with the dye process. Tannins may be clear or you can use them to add some colour to the fibre. I went for a clean tannin, so I used gallnut ground. You can also use tara for a clear tannin.

    For a yellow hue, you can use myrobalan, pomegranate, black oak, or fustic. For a red-brown hue, try mimosa, quebracho, tea leaves, or cutch.

    You generally want 10% WOF for tannins. To measure this, you’ll need to know how heavy your fabric is. For example, 1 lb of fabric weighs 454 grams. 10% of 454 grams is 45 grams, which is how much tannin you will need for your fabric. You’ll have to do some math!

    pot with brownish tannins for eco-printingpot with brownish tannins for eco-printing
    The gallnut ground turned the water a brown hue, but it didn’t affect the colour of my fabric much.

    Fill the pot again with hot water, enough to cover the fabric. Add your tannin of choice and stir. Add in your scoured and wet fabric.

    Let soak for another 1-2 hours. Simply cover it with a lid—you do not need to “cook” the fabric. Let fibre cool, and then gently rinse.

    wet fabric in pot after draining waterwet fabric in pot after draining water
    After rinsing the gallnut ground.

    Step 3: Mordant

    Most plant fibres will also need a mordant. These are metallic salts that will help bond the dye to the fabric.

    Alum (Potassium aluminum sulfate) is the most commonly used and accessible mordant available. You’ll want to use it at 12% WOF (about 1 tbsp per 100 grams of fibre).

    mordant in water for eco printingmordant in water for eco printing
    Alum bath.

    Fill the pot again with enough water to cover the fabric. Stir the alum into the water. Add in your wet fabric that has been scoured and treated with tannin.

    Let it soak for 1-2 hours. Cover with a lid so it stays warm. Now you can rinse it and let it dry for your eco-printing!

    wet fabric in pot after draining waterwet fabric in pot after draining water
    After soaking for 1-2 hours.

    How to Design Your Eco-Printing

    The part I had the most fun with was making a design. It can be easy for things to start looking like a mess. Once you start smashing flowers, it can be difficult to control their pigments.

    In my talk, I suggested folks try flower pounding in two different design styles.

    • Make a bouquet. Smash a bunch of flowers together in one area, resembling a bouquet. Then add some leaves to the flowers. Firm leaves work really well.
    • Create a pattern. Use lots of different flowers to fill in the space in a pattern. This works well for a more abstract look in case pigments bleed.
    flower hammering bouquet design finishedflower hammering bouquet design finished
    My “bouquet” style design.

    How to Hammer Your Designs

    After you’ve done all the prep, hammering is the easy part! Peel away any parts of the flower you might not want, such as stems or stamens. Gently lay a piece of parchment paper over your flowers or leaves to hold them in place.

    parchment paper for hammering flowersparchment paper for hammering flowers
    If you don’t have parchment paper, you can try regular paper or paper towels.

    Gently hammer your flowers into place. You can gently lift it to see if it needs any more hammering.

    Once satisfied with your design, carefully peel away any petals or leaves. They’re going to be squishy!

    hammering flowershammering flowers
    After being hammered, flowers are ready to be peeled off.

    You can use a fabric pen to add extra details or edges to your flowers if you like.

    To set your design, iron the fabric completely before washing. Wash your fabric on a gentle cycle with cold water, and hang to dry.

    hammering flowers finishedhammering flowers finished
    Freshly hammered flowers.
    Flowers once they have set.

    My community tablecloth turned out so beautiful. And I love that I can still continue to add more flowers and pigment to it. It looks lovely as a setting for a little table to sit at in the middle of the garden and enjoy the space and beauty of flowers.

    eco-printed tablecloth over table with chairs in the backyardeco-printed tablecloth over table with chairs in the backyard

    Let me know how this project goes for you in the comments below!

    More Flower Crafts to Try

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • How to Remove Suckers from Trees (and Why They are There in the First Place) – Garden Therapy

    How to Remove Suckers from Trees (and Why They are There in the First Place) – Garden Therapy

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    If your tree is slowly turning into a shrub by sending up tree suckers—a host of thin, upright branches from the base of the trunk or soil near the base of the tree—then here are some tips on why it might be happening and how to remove suckers from trees.

    When it comes to my style of gardening, I tend to let Mother Nature take over and interfere as little as possible. But that doesn’t mean I don’t step in every now and then!

    Suckers can make an area look unsightly and also take up resources and light from smaller perennials or annuals that grow beneath larger shrubs and trees.

    But suckers can also be an indicator of a larger problem, and your tree is trying to tell you something. If you have suckers, don’t let them take over. Here’s how to trim them….and why you should!

    This post will cover…

    looking up at a tree with a beautiful crown and formlooking up at a tree with a beautiful crown and form
    Trimming suckers can also help you create beautiful tree forms down the line.

    What Are Tree Suckers?

    Trees are very good at what they do. Growing, that is. You often see suckers at the base of trees, tiny shoots that look like mini trees emerging. When overgrown, they create a shrub-like appearance. You may also see them emerge from the stump of a tree that has been cut down and continues to live.

    Trees send up suckers as a reaction to stress. Your smart tree is putting up an effort to survive in a less-than-perfect environment. Those suckers are a way of multiplying, ensuring the lineage of the tree lives on. If the tree can’t survive, the suckers will grow in its place.

    Why Do Tree Suckers Grow?

    Suckers are often seen on urban trees that are planted in the “hell strip,” the strip of grass or garden between the street and the sidewalk. This strip is often a very stressful place for a tree to grow, with poor soil that is flanked by concrete. The soil gets compacted from the pressure on the paved surfaces, and the concrete generates a lot of additional heat.

    Trees that have been growing in the hell strip will not thrive and produce as well as their counterparts in healthy soil with ample room for roots. These trees will often have more diseases and pests, and they send up suckers as a response to the stress they are under.

    Drought is another reason why a tree might send up suckers. Upright branches from the base or upper branches as a result of drought conditions are called water sprouts. Water sprouts are the tree’s reaction to being thirsty.

    A tree can also send up water sprouts and suckers as a result of improper pruning. A description of this is covered in this article on pruning.

    Dead Shrub Needing ReplacementDead Shrub Needing Replacement
    When left to grow on their own, suckers can give trees a shrub-like appearance.

    How to Stop Tree Suckers

    As much of a nuisance as they are, the issue is primarily aesthetic. The tree is calling out for help, and if you listen perhaps you can help by improving conditions for the tree. Test your soil to find any glaring issues in it that could be causing distress.

    Most trees don’t need to be watered, but you may want to consider soaking your trees if they are young or your area is experiencing excessive heat. Poor pruning or a lack of pruning may be your other option for preventing more tree suckers from occurring.

    If you can’t find a solution,  you can simply choose to remove the suckers and keep up on the job as they appear. In some cases, like with older trees, this is not a bad solution.

    You could provide more water, better soil, and prune more carefully, but as the tree ages, it will be more prone to suckers, and this may just be how you have to manage it for the foreseeable future.

    Young trees, however, need more attention to the cause, as they shouldn’t be so stressed out at such a young age.

    How to Remove Suckers From Trees

    I have a couple of trees that I regularly will need to remove suckers from. My Corkscrew Hazel, Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’, has gorgeous contorted and twisted branches that look best when the leaves have fallen. It’s prone to suckers that hide the true beauty of the trunk of the tree, so they get chopped off regularly.

    corkscrew-hazelnutcorkscrew-hazelnut
    My Corkscrew Hazel, Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’

    I like to use a hatchet or billhook saw to remove the suckers at the base.

    Ideally, you want to get as close to the base as possible without cutting into the trunk. The nodes that send up more growth are located near where the suckers originate, so you need to remove those nodes in order to prevent regrowth. Otherwise, you will find yourself chopping down the same suckers over and over again.

    Removing suckers from trees.Removing suckers from trees.
    Remove suckers as far down as you can.

    Remove Suckers at the Base of a Trunk

    To remove suckers at the base of a trunk, use a hatchet to hook around the suckers and pull them off. The blade will prune those that do not pull off more easily. Use pruners or the saw of the billhook saw to clean up any stubs that are leftover.

    sawing tree suckers with a billhook sawsawing tree suckers with a billhook saw
    A blade will make this job much easier than trying to prune each individual sucker.

    Remove Suckers Under Soil

    To remove suckers under the soil, first try to pull them up. If they can easily be pulled off the roots, then you are likely to get the growth nodes as well. If not, use the tip of the hatchet to loosen the soil around the suckers. Then, use the hook under the soil to cut the stem.

    The hatchet can also be used to quickly remove water sprouts that grow in the spring and summer. Use the hook blade to swiftly remove the water sprouts at the branch. Then use the hatchet to quickly chop the pieces for the compost or yard waste bin.

    I prune my espalier apple tree in the fall each year after letting it grow quite steadily throughout the summer. I use bypass pruners to remove the thinner branches, the billhook saw for the larger branches, and then quickly chop them up to fit in the green waste bin using the hatchet.

    Here is my espalier apple before:

    espalier before pruningespalier before pruning
    fiskars billhook sawfiskars billhook saw
    Suckers can also be considered smaller branches that are no longer needed.
    fiskars hatchetfiskars hatchet
    Chop it up to speed up composting.
    how to remove tree suckers how to remove tree suckers

    You can see it’s such a beauty once it’s all cleaned up and tidy for the fall. Here is the after:

    espalier after removing suckersespalier after removing suckers

    These tools can also be used for cutting back unruly and overgrown brush, removing tree roots from the soil, and dividing perennials.

    FAQ About Tree Suckers

    Is there anything you can put on so the suckers don’t come back?

    You can use herbicide to kill suckers and prevent them from regrowing, but I avoid the use of herbicide in my garden completely. It can affect the tree itself and surrounding plants, as well as interfere with the local ecosystem.

    Instead, I try to prevent them by caring for the tree accordingly and get a good understanding of the growth cycle. And if they still shoot up, then I just prune them accordingly.

    Can I prune a tree back to its sucker and maintain it to become a tree?

    If your original tree isn’t doing well or has bad form, you can try to cut back all but the sucker. A sucker or a water spout is simply one of the tree’s fast growing branches, so it will have the same root system.

    More Posts About Pruning

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  • Can I Harvest Green Tomatoes? Tips for Ripening and Harvesting – Garden Therapy

    Can I Harvest Green Tomatoes? Tips for Ripening and Harvesting – Garden Therapy

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    It’s just days away from the first frost, and you’re looking at your green tomatoes wishing they would just hurry up already. I’ve been there…we’ve all been there! Fret not, for there is plenty you can do with your green tomatoes to turn them red and tasty off the vine.

    Near the end of the gardening season, gardeners watch the weather like hawks. Every day, we check to see if the dreaded first frost is coming.

    For many of our plants that require a long growing season, every second counts! Sometimes, we can harvest in time, and other times, we just don’t get enough growing days and sunshine to get there.

    Tomatoes are one I’m always keeping an eye on. I harvest them beginning in August, and can have a couple months of garden fresh tomatoes if I’m lucky. But nearing the end, I cross my fingers at the small green tomatoes and hope they can make it.

    If you have a frost coming, and you’re worried your tomatoes won’t ripen in time, there is hope for your green tomatoes. In fact, some gardeners actually prefer to harvest them when they’re green!

    Let me tell you why and how you can actually ripen your green tomatoes off the vine.

    Currant tomato vine dangling down the side of a raised vertical gardenCurrant tomato vine dangling down the side of a raised vertical garden
    Tomatoes on the same vine may ripen at different speeds.

    How a Tomato Ripens

    When tomatoes first begin to grow, they’re vivid green. As they slowly reach mature size, they become pale green. Once a tomato has reached its full size, the flavour development is mostly done.

    Tomatoes will begin to blush, which is known as the breaker stage. At this point, they are about half green and half red. During the breaker stage, the tomato has sealed off its stem from the plant, and nothing is moving from the plant into the fruit.

    When the tomato reaches this breaker stage, it can be harvested off the vine. It will ripen and taste the exact same as if it had been left to ripen on a vine.

    Many people like to harvest at the breaker stage to prevent insects and birds from feasting on their tomatoes and stop the tomatoes from splitting themselves or sunscalding.

    cheery tomato vine on the plant with red tomatoes up top and green tomatoes at the bottom of the vinecheery tomato vine on the plant with red tomatoes up top and green tomatoes at the bottom of the vine
    The bottom left tomato is a good representation of the breaker stage.

    Can I Harvest Green Tomatoes?

    For many gardeners, they don’t have time to let the tomatoes even get to the blushing breaker stage. If a frost is imminent, you’ll want to get tomatoes off the plant.

    You can absolutely harvest tomatoes that are green but full-size. These will ripen off the plant. Those that aren’t full-sized won’t ripen once picked because they weren’t fully developed yet.

    green, red, yellow, and black heirloom tomatoesgreen, red, yellow, and black heirloom tomatoes
    Some heirloom tomatoes are actually naturally green when ripe, like these Green Zebra heirloom tomatoes.

    Tips for Ripening Green Tomatoes

    Once you have your green tomatoes off the plant and inside, there are a few things you can do to help them turn from green to red.

    Temperature

    Tomatoes like to develop best in warm temperatures. Anywhere from 24-29 °C (75-85 °F) degrees is best for indoor ripening. Placing them on a sunny windowsill can help.

    Add Ethylene Gas

    Tomatoes naturally produce ethylene gas as they mature and turn red. Many commercial growers will actually ripen tomatoes by exposing them to ethylene gas. They’re picked when they’re green and then they use controlled exposure of ethylene to turn them red in time to put on grocery store shelves.

    You can use this same method at home by placing your tomatoes in a paper bag or a cardboard box and closing it up. The tomatoes will naturally produce ethylene themselves and slowly ripen, but you can speed up the process by placing a ripe banana alongside them. Other fruits such as mangos, apples, or avocados also work.

    Check on the tomatoes regularly. They will ripen at different speeds depending on what stage they were picked at. Remove any that are ripe or may show signs of spoilage.

    Leave Them on the Vine

    Keep the stem intact. When harvesting your tomatoes, leave a little bit of stem rather than pulling just the tomato off. This will help the tomatoes ripen better.

    wicker bowl of red and green tomatoes freshly harvestedwicker bowl of red and green tomatoes freshly harvested
    Let your tomatoes sit on the countertop while they ripen.

    Storing Your Tomatoes

    Do. Not. Put your tomatoes in the fridge. Once you put the tomatoes in the fridge, you completely halt the ripening process. You’ll also notice a reduction in flavour, as the aromatic compounds in the fruit will break down when exposed to cool temperatures.

    Of course, if you’re storing them for a while, you can move them into the fridge to help make them last longer. But you want to keep them on the counter or fruit bowl if you can help it!

    When storing, it’s also a good idea to put the tomatoes upside down with the stem on the bottom. The shoulders of the tomato help to distribute the weight evenly, and your tomatoes will last longer.

    heirloom tomato varieties in yellow, purple, orange, green, and redheirloom tomato varieties in yellow, purple, orange, green, and red
    Tomatoes are best left at room temperature to maintain their flavour.

    Eating Green Tomatoes

    Of course, you can also eat your green tomatoes! This is a completely different experience from eating a ripe red tomato. Green tomatoes are quite crunchy and have a tart taste.

    The most common way to enjoy green tomatoes is to fry them. Cover them with a breadcrumb coating with spices and fry them in a pan until they’re golden brown.

    You can also try pickling them. I haven’t tried this myself, but I would probably do it in a similar way to how I make my pickled shishito peppers.

    green zebra tomato with stem still attached in a white studiogreen zebra tomato with stem still attached in a white studio
    Green zebra heirloom tomato.

    FAQ About Green Tomatoes

    What happens when tomatoes freeze?

    Once a tomato freezes, it will turn to mush when it defrosts, and the plant itself will wilt and turn brown. So, it’s important to pick those green tomatoes off the plant if a first frost is on its way!

    How long do tomatoes take to ripen?

    It’s going to depend greatly based on the type of tomato you have. Indeterminate tomatoes (the vining ones) will fruit at different times, so you could enjoy some tomatoes now, and others two months later from the same plant. Determinate tomatoes will all fruit at once, giving you one large harvest.

    Most tomatoes need 65-90 days from seed before you’ll begin to see any tomatoes. Once you see a flower, that will turn into a tomato fruit in about 15-20 days.

    How do you tell when a green tomato is ripe?

    The best way to tell if a tomato has reached full size is by its colouring. Compare it to other tomatoes on the vine. If it’s starting to change colour ever so slightly, such as yellowish-green or has a slight pink hue (usually begins at the bottom of the tomato), it’s ripe and can be picked to turn red inside.

    More Tips for Preserving and Harvesting Tomatoes

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • How to Store Bulbs Over Winter: Save Your Summer-Flowering Bulbs!

    How to Store Bulbs Over Winter: Save Your Summer-Flowering Bulbs!

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    Bulbs are one of the brightest, boldest ways to fill your garden with a rainbow of colours and scents. But when fall comes around, we’re not ready to say goodbye to those summer-flowering bulbs. Learn how to store bulbs over winter so you can enjoy the same flowers again next season!

    Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    Over here on Garden Therapy, I have so much advice on bulbs. I just can’t get enough of them! They’re simply one of the best, most affordable ways to fill your garden with colour, fragrance, and create a haven for bees and other pollinators.

    One of the first sights of spring, bulbs represent transformation. To me, bulbs symbolize the season’s rebirth and create instant optimism. Nothing gets me quite as giddy for the gardening season as seeing bulbs!

    While there are spring bulbs, there are also plenty of summer-flowering, tender bulbs. These flowers are known for being extra brilliant, providing epic colour amid the growing season. Unfortunately, these bulbs in the winter are not cold hardy and often don’t return the following season when left in the ground.

    Bulbs remain one of the most affordable ways to fill your home with flowers, but when you need to replace them every year, it can add up! However, you can learn how to dig up and store bulbs over the winter and continue to use the same bulbs every growing season. Here’s how!

    Jump ahead to…

    Spring Bulbs Vs Summer Flowering Bulbs

    Not all bulbs are the same! Spring bulbs, or the more accurate name of fall bulbs, are considered the same thing. Planted in the fall, they pop up and emerge in the spring for a splash of colour after a dreary winter.

    These spring bulbs must be planted in the fall because they rely on the cold. The cold tells them to develop roots, and they know it’s time to spring up when the weather begins to warm.

    On the other end, you have summer flowering bulbs. These are planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. Complete sun lovers, these plants don’t love the cold as much and may need to consider wintering bulbs. Otherwise, they’re treated as annuals.

    While I’m using the term bulb, this also applies to tubers, corms, and rhizomes. All refer to the swollen underground part of the plant used to store food. However, where they store the food varies, which is the key difference in the names. But! These tips for overwintering bulbs will apply to all under the “bulb” category.

    dahlia flowerdahlia flower
    Dahlia tubers can even be divided in the fall to make more plants.

    Can You Leave Bulbs in the Ground Over Winter?

    When looking at what to do with your bulbs in winter, you need to determine which bulbs are sun lovers and which ones are cold-hardy. The spring bulbs should stay in the ground over winter since they rely on the cold to bloom. The summer-flowering bulbs, meanwhile, may need to be dug up, or they may rot if left in the soil.

    Depending on where you live, some summer-flowering bulbs may be okay to stay in the ground. Here are some of the most popular summer-flowering bulbs and the zones they’re cold hardy in.

    • Ranunculus USDA zones 8-10
    • Dahlia USDA zones 8-11
    • Gladiolus USDA zones 8-11
    • Calla lily USDA zones 8-10
    • Crocosmia USDA zones 6-9
    • Freesia USDA zones 9-10
    • Canna lily USDA zones 7-11
    • Liatris USDA zones 3-8
    • Tuberous begonia USDA zones 9-10
    • Anemone USDA zones 4-8

    If these bulbs are hardy in your zone, you can still help them during the winter. Wait until the foliage has completely died down before trimming it down to 2-3 inches. Add a layer of mulch over the bulbs to help retain the warmth while they rest up for the winter.

    Honestly, I leave most of my summer bulbs in the garden rather than digging them up and storing them. I treat them as annuals and don’t feel guilty about letting them decompose in the ground. But I know that many people don’t want to spend money on bulbs every year or may have some specialty bulbs they want to keep. So that’s where these tips come in!

    purple gladiola flowerpurple gladiola flower
    Gladiolus grow from corms, so they’re not technically true bulbs, but they can still be stored over winter using these instructions.

    How to Store Bulbs Over Winter

    If you have tender perennials, you’ll likely need to dig them up if you want to enjoy them again next season. Luckily, figuring out how to store bulbs over winter isn’t hard to do!

    Dig Up Bulbs

    Those bulbs need to get out of the ground! You’ll want to harvest the bulbs once all the foliage is dead. The leaves should easily pull away when tugged at. This should be done before the first frost, or it may be too late for the bulbs.

    Use a garden fork to gently dig up the bulbs. Once again, be gently or you may pierce delicate root systems (like dahalia tubers).

    Carefully brush the excess dirt off the bulbs. You can even rinse them if you’d like. Trim the foliage to 2-3 inches and cut any long, dangling roots.

    Dry Out Bulbs

    The bulbs will be full of moisture, so it’s vital to let them air dry before you pack them away for the winter.

    First things first, make sure you label everything. Once dug up, all bulbs will look the same. So ensure you have masking or flagging tape and Sharpie ready to label all containers the bulbs will go in.

    Set out newspaper or paper towel in a warm, dry place. Lay the bulbs out and allow them to sit for a couple of days. Let them completely dry and be free of any moisture before storing them.

    storing amaryllis bulbs indoors for the winterstoring amaryllis bulbs indoors for the winter
    Amaryllis bulbs ready to be stored. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    Store Bulbs

    Storing bulbs is a delicate balance, as you don’t want them to get moist and become mouldy or rotten. However, you don’t want them to completely shrivel and dry up either. So ideally, you want to keep the moisture the bulbs have after drying out for a couple of days, but not obtaining any more.

    Place your bulbs in a plastic container or cardboard box. Put down one layer, trying to ensure the bulbs don’t touch one another (in case one gets mouldy, you don’t want it to spread). Add a layer of growing medium, such as coconut coir, vermiculite, or sawdust. Ensure the tops are fully covered.

    Add another layer of bulbs and growing medium, ensuring they all get enough air circulation.

    There are many different ways to store bulbs. People will all have their own suggestions on the best storage methods, and one isn’t necessarily better than the other. For instance, Holly, our Content Manager, stores her dahlia tubers in plastic saran wrap, wrapping up divided tubers and storing them in a cardboard box.

    Check the bulbs every once in a while to look for signs of rot, disposing of any rotten bulbs. Let the bulbs rest for a few months before planting again.

    Depending on where you live, this should be around four months. Bulbs won’t usually last more than a year on storage, so planting late is better than never!

    Plant Bulbs

    Planting times will vary based on your location and the bulb type, but typically most tender bulbs should be planted after the last frost. When taking bulbs out of storage, any healthy bulbs will be large and firm. Get rid of any that look mushy or cracked.

    When you’re ready to plant, check out this planting guide for summer-flowering bulbs.

    Overwintering Bulbs in Containers

    One of my favourite ways to display bulbs is in containers. You can dig up some of your spring bulbs, or plant new ones altogether, to get an impressive display of colour in the spring.

    With careful layering and the right container choice, you can easily do the work in the fall for a gorgeous spring. Check out my layering technique here!

    Daffodil Bulbs in a PotDaffodil Bulbs in a Pot
    Layered daffodil bulbs in a container. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    Frequently Asked Questions About Wintering Bulbs

    What is overwintering?

    Overwintering is the steps taken to help ensure a plant survives the winter. Typically, this involves protecting the plants from the cold by doing things like moving them inside or to a sheltered area, covering them with a protective layer, adding mulch, etc. Some plants need help overwintering, and others are fine all on their own.

    Do you need to dig up bulbs in the winter?

    This depends on the type of bulb. Spring bulbs should be left in the ground year-round. They require the cold to develop their roots and need the winter as part of their process.

    As for tender, summer-flowering bulbs, follow your zone rules as to whether or not you need to winterize the bulbs. Most will need to be dug up before the first frost and brought inside to be dried and stored for the winter to be used again.

    Should I water plants when overwintering?

    Tender bulbs do not need to be watered. You want to avoid moisture and promote circulation as much as possible.

    As for spring/fall bulbs, you want to water them as soon as you plant them in the fall in a well-draining area. Once things cool down, you don’t need to water or protect them. All the work is done!

    That covers everything about how to winterize bulbs! Just taking an hour in the fall to dig up your bulbs will allow you to enjoy your flowers again and again.

    More Posts About Bulbs

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • The Definitive Guide to Daffodils – Garden Therapy

    The Definitive Guide to Daffodils – Garden Therapy

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    Queen of the spring bulb pageant, the daffodil is everywhere after the snow melts. They come in quite a few varieties ranging from pure white to golden hues of yellow and orange. Daffodils are even more versatile than tulips and hyacinths, making them a great addition to even the toughest gardens. This daffodil care guide covers everything you need to know to have beautiful blooms welcome you into spring.

    There was a time when I didn’t appreciate daffodils. I’m sure that was because I was never a huge fan of yellow, especially the iconic trumpet daffodil as seen in large bundles around Easter. They always reminded me of the Crayola primary yellow colour!

    My neighbour planted a dense row of them in the bed that divided our two gardens. At first, I was a bit put off by the bank of yellow that bloomed every April, but then I grew to love the sturdiness and dependability of the sunny yellow faces that greeted me when I arrived home.

    While they may be named after Narcissus, there is so much more to the daffodil than its bright yellow beauty. Let’s get into it!

    Rows of the daffodil flowerRows of the daffodil flower
    Daffodils are known most for being bright yellow, but they also come in different cream and orange hues.

    Sponsored Content: I have proudly partnered with FlowerBulbs.com to share this guide on daffodils (who also provided some of the gorgeous photos in this post). We’ve partnered to help remind you that fall is bulb-planting season! There are a ton of bulbs you can purchase online at many retailers and garden centers. This is a great reminder to grab your favourite bulbs before all the good ones are sold out. Come springtime, you will be happy you took the initiative when you have a garden full of spring blooms.

    The History of Daffodils

    The botanical name for daffodil is Narcissus. It is believed to be named after the river god from Greek mythology of the same name. Narcissus was very beautiful and often had people fall in love with him, including the nymph Echo. However, he met her affections with disdain. This led the god of revenge, Nemesis, to make him fall in love with his own reflection. Unable to leave his own image, he eventually withered away, becoming a flower.

    Daffodils also mean rebirth and new beginnings. They are one of the first flowers to emerge in spring after the frost, and they are known for brightening up the world after a dreary winter.

    Daffodils are also valued in China as they grow around Chinese New Year. They represent good luck, prosperity, and good fortune. If they bloom on New Year’s Day, it means you will receive good luck for the year ahead.

    Narcissus Daffodil Kiwi SunsetNarcissus Daffodil Kiwi Sunset
    Narcissus ‘Kiwi Sunset’ photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

    Daffodils as a Beacon of Hope

    The daffodil is a beautiful mascot for a very important cause. Since the 1950s, the American Cancer Society and Canadian Cancer Society have used daffodils to represent hope for a cancer-free future. The daffodil was chosen because it represents a hardy flower that rises from the cold winter and blooms again in the spring. It represents vitality, growth, and new life.

    Daffodil Month is celebrated throughout March. Daffodils are sold with all profits going towards helping those living with cancer and funding for cancer research. Next March, keep an eye out for daffodil sales in your local community to support this cause!

    Narcissus Tete a Tete TopsNarcissus Tete a Tete Tops
    Narcissus “Tete a Tete Tops” photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

    Daffodil Toxicity

    It should be known that all parts of the daffodil bulb are toxic. While you may not think to reach for a daffodil when hungry, the bulbs can be mistaken for other plants, such as onions. Not to mention any curious kiddos or digging dogs out there!

    Ingesting parts of a daffodil can lead to nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain. While these symptoms will only last for a few hours, they can easily be avoided. The toxicity comes from the chemical lycorine. The bulb contains the highest level of lycorine but it is also present throughout the plant.

    Plant daffodils in an area where pets and children don’t frequent. While I wish all plants were edible, we have to be careful about what we plant and where. Children should always be supervised in the garden and taught not to eat anything they don’t know.

    Woman holding a daffodil bulbWoman holding a daffodil bulb
    Ensure kids and pets stay away from daffodil bulbs and plants. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

    How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Daffodils

    Daffodils are very popular because of their hardiness and ability to easily naturalize. They grow in zones 3-8, withstanding temperatures up to -50 degrees Fahrenheit.

    That means most of us up north will have no trouble at all planting daffodil bulbs in the fall and waiting for them to bloom in the spring. They act as a perennial plant and flower early in the season. Overall, they are a fairly low maintenance bulb.

    They can be planted just about anywhere, but they pair well with late-blooming perennials. Daffodils can provide some bright colour to otherwise dreary beds in the springtime. They can also be planted under shrubs and trees as they can handle shade.

    Here is the lowdown on growing daffodils:

    • USDA Zones: 3-8
    • Flower colour: white, yellow, orange, red, and pink
    • Flowering period: February – May
    • Planting depth to the base of bulb: large bulbs – 8 inches; small bulbs – 5 inches
    • Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches for large bulbs; 1 inch for small bulbs
    • Type of bulb: true bulb
    • Light requirements: full sun to full shade
    • Landscape uses: daffodils are suitable for almost every possible application: fields, beds, containers, borders, rock gardens, as cut flowers, and for forcing.
    Narcissus Thalia DaffodilNarcissus Thalia Daffodil
    Narcissus ‘Thalia’ photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

    Growing Daffodils in Containers

    Container gardening is becoming increasingly popular. By placing daffodil bulbs in a container, you can force them to bloom a little bit earlier in the year. These make great additions to your balcony, patio, or entranceway while other flowers take their time to spring up.

    You will want to choose daffodil varieties with short stems and foliage that aren’t too big for the container. When choosing a container, make sure it is at least 10-12 inches deep and has drainage holes. You can also add a layer of clay shards to the bottom of the container for extra drainage.

    Press your bulbs into loose soil five inches deep (for small daffodils). You can place them relatively close together as the bulbs will not grow wider. Place your container outside and wait for the bulbs to emerge. If is it persistently dry outside, make sure to water them.

    If frost is on its way, try to move your container into a safe place that isn’t too warm, such as a garage or shed. Bulbs in containers are more susceptible to cold as it comes in from all directions.

    Daffodils as Cut Flowers

    I added daffodils to my front yard bulb lawn. Amongst other bulbs, I had a huge mixture of different bulbs erupt. So much so that I was able to cut some and bring them inside to enjoy!

    Harvest daffodils before they’ve fully opened and when the buds are fully coloured. Their necks should be slightly nodding. Harvesting them early will give you about a week’s vase life.

    Daffodils are known as one of the “dirty dozen flowers” and emit sap when harvesting, so you’ll want to wear gloves. This sap is also toxic to other flowers, so you want to avoid putting them in a vase with others immediately.

    Instead, you’ll want to condition the daffodils first by placing the fresh-cut flowers in cool water for a few hours. This will allow the stem to dry out. Then, you can place them with other flowers.

    While normally you want to recut flower stems to freshen them in your vase, don’t recut daffodils as they will emit their toxic sap again, killing other flowers in the arrangement.

    Mini-Narcissus-Daffodils-in-BagsMini-Narcissus-Daffodils-in-Bags
    Make sure to condition daffodils first before putting them in arrangements. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com.

    FAQ About Growing Daffodils

    How long do daffodils last?

    Most daffodils have a blooming period that can last for 4-6 weeks.

    What do you do with daffodils after they bloom?

    You can cut the main flower stalk after the daffodils have bloomed, but you must leave the leaves. The leaves are going to recharge the bulb so it can grow again the following year. Once the leaves begin to turn yellow and die back, you can clip back the leaves as well. Leave the bulb where it is, and it will be a sunny beacon again next year!

    Will daffodil bulbs multiply?

    Yes! Daffodils are known for naturalizing in garden beds and lawns and will begin to multiply 2-3 years after initial planting. For them to naturalize, they need to be left alone to recharge the bulb until the leaves turn yellow. Consider this when planting your daffodil bulbs (ie, you may not be able to mow a lawn for a while if you place them in your grass).

    Any daffodil variety should naturalize, but some are better known for it, such as Narcissus ‘Actaea’ and Narcissus ‘Tete a Tete’.

    Do daffodils bloom more than once?

    Daffodils will only bloom once per season. Their bulbs have only enough energy to produce the blooms once.

    Ruffled Daffodil bloomingRuffled Daffodil blooming
    Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

    More Bulbs to Plant This Fall

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    Stephanie Rose

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