These vegetables get sweeter after being kissed by frost, making them a delectable wintertime treat. So don’t despair when that first frost hits; instead, get excited because you’re about to get some delicious gifts from the garden.
That first frost can be a sad time for gardeners because it is often thought of as the end of the time of year when we can harvest garden produce to eat. However, there are actually lots of vegetables that not only withstand the frost, but actually taste better after the temperatures drop!
When the frost hits, the naturally occurring water inside a plant freezes, causing distress to the plant. In order to combat this, some plants produce more sugar, which allows them to tolerate a lower temperature without freezing. It also means that the plants become sweeter and tastier.
These are the vegetables that get sweeter after a frost to harvest late this season.
Root Veggies
Beets, carrots, turnips, rutabaga, radishes, and parsnips are delicious after the first frost but before the ground freezes. They are also such a hearty, comforting food that they are exactly what many of us are craving during the cold winter months.
Even if you don’t get to them before the ground is frozen, leave them in the soil over winter and harvest them as soon as the ground around them thaws. They will still taste great as long as you get to them before they start re-growing their leaves for spring.
Brassicas, or members of the cabbage family, all taste great after the frost. These include collard greens, kale, Brussels sprouts, bok choy, cauliflower, and, of course, cabbage.
The best way to grow members of the cabbage family is to plant them in the spring to harvest a crop in the summer, and then plant them again in the summer to harvest a second crop in the winter (or even the following spring).
Brassicas grow best in cooler environments and, while they do produce well in the summer, it is the winter crops that really take the cake. When the first frost hits, the roots work hard to prevent the plants from freezing by sending sugars up to the cells in the leaves, making the leaves sweet and tender. Harvest these post-frost and enjoy getting your greens on throughout the winter!
Leeks
Leeks also get sweeter and more flavourful after a frost. Harvest them as long as they are not frozen into the ground (in some areas, this means you can be eating your own leeks all winter long). There’s nothing more comforting on a cold winter’s night than a hot, steaming bowl of leek and potato soup!
Leeks and rhubarb.
Lettuce and Spinach
Most types of lettuce and spinach prefer the cooler temperatures, often bolting during the heat of summer. You can easily sow an additional round of greens at the end of summer to enjoy in the fall. They can reach maturity and harvest in a month (cut-and-come-again varieties).
Spinach can survive to about -7°C (30°F). But you don’t want to harvest the leaves when frozen, as they will turn mushy once thawed.
Most lettuces can only tolerate a light frost, but can easily be protected with a season extender.
Other greens, such as arugula, tatsoi, and radicchio, can also handle the cold well.
Speckled lettuce
More Fall Gardening Tips
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
One day you’re sweating while weeding, the next you’re wearing a jacket for the morning chill. When we feel the cold beginning to settle in, it’s a good idea to start prepping your garden for its hibernation. Here’s how to protect plants from frost and snow this coming cold season.
Vancouver is a temperate rainforest, meaning my winters tend to look a little more green than white. But that doesn’t mean we never get snow. Once or twice during the winter, we’ll get a big snow dump that usually shuts down the city.
We can still get our cold snaps. Just last year, we set a record for the coldest January yet. Many people lost shrubs and perennials that had survived many prior winters, as they just weren’t ready to handle those extreme temperatures.
While you can just leave your garden to its own devices for the winter, you may experience some losses once everything thaws come spring. You can avoid the disappointment by taking a few steps to winterize your garden. We’ve got to keep our plant babies safe after all.
Here’s how to protect plants from frost and get ready for the winter season!
Containers are less insulated than ground plants and need more care to winterize.
Garden Prep Ahead of the Winter Season
Before the cold really sets in, you can set your plants up for success. Here are a few things to be aware of to prepare a garden for winter.
Add a Layer of Mulch
Mulch is one of the best and easiest ways to winterize a garden and protect plants from freezing. Adding a two-to-four-inch layer of mulch can help protect the roots beneath from freezing. Think of it like a nice cozy blanket for the plants.
Add a layer to the base of trees, shrubs, and perennials. Keep the base of the trunk clear to prevent rotting. There are many natural mulches you can use, including fallen leaves and straw. It’s good practice to remove some or all of the mulch in the spring when things begin to warm up.
Opt for natural mulch that will work its way into your soil come spring.
Overwinter Tender Plants
Most of my plants I leave outside to fend for themselves, but there are a few special plants I like to bring inside or move for the winter. Succulents thrive in warm conditions, but there are some hardy succulents that actually love a cold period.
Many sedums, sempervivum, agave, ice plant, lewisa, and yucca will overwinter in Zone 5-6 plus. If I have these planted, I’ll leave them in the ground and clean them up in the spring. If they’re in pots, I’ll move them under cover, such as under a deck.
Any tender succulents should be brought inside.
I also bring in some of my more tender herbs. Most of my annuals I’ll say goodbye to and plant again in the spring. The ones that do the best when brought inside include mint, thyme, and oregano. Others, like basil, you can take a clipping to propagate and bring indoors.
Of course, you may have more tender plants you want to bring inside (a tropical perhaps?). Most plants in pots may need some extra care and protection.
Clean up any plants you bring indoors to prevent the spread of pests and disease.
Winterize Your Water
To avoid the horror stories of burst pipes and flooded basements, it’s good practice to turn off your outdoor faucets. This can be done by locating the shut-off valves (usually inside the house) and turning them off, then returning outside and turning the faucets on to drain the remaining water.
You should also ensure your hoses and nozzles are properly drained and stored. And if you have a water feature, such as a fountain or pond, winterize it as well.
Add Winter Interest Plants
While this may not be an absolute must, I am giving you an excuse to visit the garden centre and take advantage of an end-of-season sale. In early to mid-fall, you still have time to plant some perennials. Ideally, you should do this six weeks before the first hard frost. This gives the plant some time to establish roots and settle in before the winter.
While most of winter is spent hibernating inside and getting cozy, you may still need to get outside from time to time to check on your plants.
Plants in Snow
If you’ve ever shovelled snow, then you just know how heavy it can be. Imagine the weight on the plants! When you experience a large snowfall, it’s good practice to brush off the snow from your shrubs (don’t shake) and lower tree branches to help lessen the weight. Otherwise, you may end up with broken branches or even smothered smaller plants.
If you have newer shrubs or trees that may be more vulnerable, you can stake them with wooden or metal supports for the winter. It’s also a good idea to selectively prune young plants to maintain a good and strong structure as they grow older.
You can also tie branches together to help them withstand the impact of snow. This works best for young evergreen trees, where you can bundle up the branches and secure them to the trunk.
Shovel and sweep heavy snow away from plants.
Avoid Using Road Salt
Vancouver’s solution to snow often comes in the form of road salt, which is a nightmare for gardeners, since it can be toxic to plants. Road salt readily dissolves in snow melt and water, absorbing into the soil. This can cause plants to turn yellow, send out suckers, become more susceptible to pests and diseases, or just die.
The salt spray can also hurt the upper part of plants, mainly causing browning and bud dieback, leading to a loss of leaves, flowers, or fruit the following spring.
Overall, I don’t worry too much about a frost since it’s part of the gardening experience. I say goodbye to my annuals and trust that my perennials will be just fine.
That being said, sometimes extreme cold can be in the forecast, and you may want to provide some extra protection in addition to the mulch you would have applied in the fall and early winter.
If you can move potted plants, bring them into the garage, a shed, or somewhere else where they might have protection.You can also add some frost protection, such as row cover or burlap, to give any of the more tender plants more insulation.
Bonus: Winter Planters
To get a little bit of garden therapy in during the winter, why not make some winter-themed planters? I love to use the cold to my advantage and create planters with evergreen boughs that will last for months.
I always like to use inexpensive materials you may already have. A simple sheet or old blanket can be a great frost cover, as can burlap or even cardboard. And don’t forget how valuable natural mulch can be!
Should I water my plants before I cover them for a freeze?
Watering plants before a frost is actually a good practice and can help protect plants from freezing. Water can absorb and hold heat, helping to keep the soil and roots warmer than the air above. Dry soil and conditions won’t hold the heat as well, and cause the plant to lose water.
Even during the winter, your plants need moisture. Snow provides plenty of moisture in the winter, which usually means you don’t have to worry about watering. But if conditions are dry, you may need to water.
Check your soil first by placing your finger in the soil to the first knuckle. If it’s dry, water your plant at the base, avoiding getting the leaves wet. Only water the plant in temperatures of 4°C or higher (40°F).
Does snow protect plants?
While it may seem contrary, snow and plants are a great pair. Snow primarily consists of air (about 90-95%), making it a great insulator against cold temperatures. It also helps to prevent temperature fluctuations that can confuse your plant. If you have a sudden cold snap coming, a blanket of snow can help protect your plants against it if it precedes the cold.
Rhododendron bud in snow.
Keep Your Green Thumb Busy This Winter
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
Looking for a unique way to bring your love of the outdoors to your home? Make this pretty DIY clay leaf dish! Whether you use them for soap dishes, to hold jewellry, or as a gift for a friend, making this project is simple.
These clay leaf dishes are a project you can make anytime throughout the year. Head out to the garden and look for unique shapes to preserve.
Perhaps you have a special tree that you’d like to commemorate? I know that I can get very sentimental about my trees, and this is a nice way to preserve the leaf of a loved tree for years to come.
Thanks to air dry clay, it’s simple to do this clay project at home in a weekend. Here’s how to make these clay leaf dishes.
This post will cover…
Use craft paint to colour your clay leaf dish.
Choosing Leaves for Clay Imprints
When choosing leaves, look for those that are still supple, as dry leaves may crack and break before you get a good mold from them. Leaves that have interesting shapes like oak and maple will make bowls with deeply grooved edges, making them interesting yet impractical for holding much.
I like to use smooth-edged leaves with a fairly large size, about as big as the palm of your hand for a small pinch bowl or as large as your whole hand for a decorative jewelry dish. Hydrangea leaves make a perfect bowl shape and you can ruffle the edges for a bit more decoration. And long leaves make an interesting ring holder.
Once you’ve chosen your leaves, then it’s just a matter of using clay to mould them and paint to decorate. You can make these at home and finish them with a coat of paint or head to a local pottery studio and use a kiln to glaze them, but no matter how you decide to finish them, here is how to make these lovely leaf dishes.
I used hydrangea leaves for my clay imprint.
How to Use Air Dry Clay
Air dry clay is an easy material to work with, but it’s not as durable as kiln fired clay. Air dry clay can break easily and turn to mush if left outside in the rain without sealer. The good news is that it is really easy (and fun!) to work with so it is worth taking a bit of extra care.
Make sure that you work out the bubbles before you mold your clay. If your clay is new from the package you can cut off a slab and roll that out without too many air bubbles. If you have a ball that has been previously handled, you can work out the bubbles by kneading the air bubbles out.
Potters call this “wedging.” While this is absolutely necessary in kiln pottery, air dry clay is a bit more forgiving. See how to wedge clay in this video and use it to reshape your clay and remove air bubbles.
Air dry clay dries out very quickly. To avoid cracks, keep your clay moist and smooth out any cracks with a wet sponge before allowing it to dry. Dry air dry clay slowly in a cool room. Check it often to make sure the shape is holding as the edges can curl up.
When the clay is completely dry, paint it and use a clay sealer to protect the finished piece. With these tips, air dry clay is an easy way to start sculpting!
Air dry clay dries out quickly, so make sure to keep it moist with a wet sponge.
How to Make a DIY Clay Leaf Dish
Making these dishes are simple, and will be enjoyed for years to come!
Materials
This project takes two days, as the clay needs to be fully dry before you paint it.
Make it!
Start by removing a section of clay from the block using string or dental floss. Wrap the string around your 2 index fingers, the width of the block apart and use it to pull through the clay to cut off a chunk. Start at the back and pull towards you.
Store any clay not in use in an airtight bag or container to avoid it from drying out.
Roll out the clay to 1/2 inch thickness and place the leaf, with veins facing down, on the clay. Use the rolling pin to gently imprint the leaf’s details and shape into the clay.
Place the leaf with veins facing down to get the best imprint.
Use a sharp edge of a knife to cut out the shape of the leaf and pull the leaf off.
Cut the remaining clay off with a sharp knife.
Cup the finished clay leaf in your hands and gently work it into a bowl shape by curling up the edges.
To ruffle the edges, use both hands to curve the edges back and forth, creating a wave pattern.
I made my edges more curled and whimsical than the actual leaf.
You can set the leaf in a shallow bowl to dry and take on the shape, or roll up some newspaper to set under the edges of the bowl. This will make sure it keeps the curved shape as it dries.
Use a bowl or planter to help you create the proper shape.
Paint the Clay Leaf
After the clay is completely dry, you can paint it any way you like! From simple white to multicoloured, a set of craft paints will transform it. Try painting geometric shapes, splatter painting it Pollock style, or adding your own touch.
Use a gloss or matte sealer to protect the finish and set it out to enjoy.
Where to Use the Clay Leaves
Note: these clay leaf dishes are decorative and not meant for food. It is not possible to wash them or submerge them in water. It’s best that they are used to show off pretty collections or other small items you want to display.
If you want to have food-safe dishes, join a pottery studio and make this simple project there! You don’t need much experience and you can make beautiful designs with the glazes. Here are some that I made in a pottery studio with the hydrangea leaves.
Pottery studios will create a different finish by using a glaze.
I use these as soap dishes for my handmade soap at home and as gifts.
More Crafty Garden Clay Projects
How to Make a Clay Leaf Dish
Looking for a unique way to bring your love of the outdoors to your home? Make this pretty DIY clay leaf dish! Whether you use them for soap dishes, to hold jewelry, or as a gift for a friend, making this project is simple.
Wrap the dental floss around your fingers and use it to break off a chunk of the clay.
Then roll the clay to 1/2″ thick, and lay your leaf with the veins facing down on the clay.
Use the rolling pin to transfer the imprint of the veins to the clay.
With the craft knife, trace out the leaf’s shape in the clay.
Cup the clay leaf in your hands and gently form the bowl shape by curling the edges upwards.
Let the clay dry completely.
Paint the dried clay leaf with craft paint. Then protect the finish with a sealer.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
This is a fun Halloween project for gardeners! It’s silly and quirky, and it puts a smile on everyone’s face. Turn your Jack-o-Lantern into a Jack-o-PLANTern this year for a fun garden therapy project using these simple DIY instructions.
I love decorating with pumpkins. I get giddy when I start to see them available at the farmer’s markets and grocery store. I applaud those who even go through the effort of growing one themselves to carve and decorate with later.
These jack-o-planterns are a fun gardeners take on the classic jack-o-lantern. You can use up the last of the plants remaining from your summer and fall planters, or get some on discount from the garden centre.
This quick project is also fun to do with the kiddos. Let me show you!
How to Make a Jack-o-Plantern
Making your own is a really simple project. Heading out to a garden centre will be the most time consuming and, might I add, dangerous. You will have to show some restraint if you don’t want to come home with a carload of colourful grasses, kale, and other fall beauties.
For a budget-friendly option, upcycle plants from your summer planters.
Make It!
Cut the top off your pumpkin to make a hole in the top. If it is fairly empty, then you don’t need to spend a bunch of time scooping it out. I removed the seeds and roasted them and left the rest of the junk in there. It will all compost together in the end anyhow.
Use you marker to draw a face on the best side of the pumpkin and use the knife to carve out the holes.
Don’t worry about cleaning your pumpkin guts out completely.
Now add some soil to the bottom of the pumpkin. You can use a container mix soil, although I found that my plants had quite a bit of container soil in them and I didn’t really need to add much more in the way of peat moss or perlite.
Contrary to typical container planting instructions, you really want to pack the soil down at the bottom to create some firm areas where the plants can sit. These planters will not last long enough for the roots to struggle and will have lots of moisture and organic matter from the pumpkin itself.
I also don’t think drainage holes are necessary but add them if you choose.
Pack in the soil tight.
Now for the fun part (it is even more fun than carving a jack-o-lantern)! Plant some ‘hair’ with grasses…
Grasses are the perfect hair, as well as trailing plants.
…and ‘hats’ with cabbage.
Cabbage “hat”
Fill soil around the roots of the plants (remove the plastic pots) and pack it in through the eyes and mouth. Leave space for sedum and ornamental kale as eyes and teeth.
Ornamental kale as eyes.
Use succulents as “teeth”
I tried swapping out the kale and sedum in different jack-o-lantern eyes until I got the look that I liked.
Set your pumpkin out in the cool fall air and water periodically. After Halloween, remove the plants and make a pretty fall planter or use them to pretty up the garden. Compost the whole pumpkin and the soil and you will be well on your way to a greener garden next year.
Jack-o-Plantern FAQ
How long do pumpkin planters last before they begin to rot?
It depends entirely on the weather conditions. The cooler the pumpkin, the longer it will last. If possible, keep it from sitting in the sun. If it’s warm, your pumpkin may last only a few days. Cooler temperatures and it could last a couple of weeks.
How can I make my pumpkin planter last longer?
The most important aspect is picking a good pumpkin. Avoid any with soft spots or visible damage or browning.
Sun will accelerate decomposition, while rain will promote rot. Snow can help preserve the pumpkin if it sticks around, but freezing and then thawing will end up with a pumpkin puddle. Your best bet is to place it in a shady, covered area, and wait for the cool weather to kick in.
I have found that those tips and hacks like adding petroleum jelly or bleach actually don’t work, and means you can’t compost your pumpkin after. Read more about that here.
More Fun Pumpkin Ideas
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
While I think all gardens are beautiful and look amazing in photos, there’s just something about a garden that goes into such detail you can’t help but be wowed the second you step in. Susan Koelink has what I like to call a magazine garden, and you’ll see why it’s been featured by many publications.
The stunning ‘Royal Sunset’ rose.
We break up your dreary cold weather to bring you some summer joy! Last summer, I had the pleasure of scouting some gardens for Garden Gate magazine throughout the Vancouver area.
Susan Koelink was one of the gardeners I met, and I toured her home gardening space. While I wish I could claim credit for finding this beautiful garden to share with you today, the truth is that Susan is a seasoned pro.
Susan has had her garden featured in multiple magazines many times, as well as hosted garden tours for people all over the world.
Her space is truly a magazine beautiful space. She puts perfection into the details but still exhibits creativity you won’t see in any other spaces.
Coral was one of her garden’s colour themes!
Let’s get into this virtual tour!
What Makes a Magazine Garden?
Over the past decade, I’ve attended quite a few Better Home & Gardens Stylemaker events. The first time I went, I was quite naïve at what went into creating a magazine article.
As bloggers, and now influencers, we all have access to post via our phone and laptops. Anyone can share their experiences and photos to a wider audience.
The March edition of Better Homes and Gardens features Susan’s garden.
But at the Stylemaker’s event, I got to truly see all the work they do to design and style a shoot. It’s like watching a Michelin star chef create a meal as opposed to a good home cook. The attention to detail and the overall considered thought go above and beyond.
It’s not necessarily about having style, but it’s knowing how to cultivate it and curate it to be exceptional. And that’s exactly what I saw in Susan’s garden. The level of effort that goes into the details make her garden truly magazine worthy.
Susan in her garden and patio.
Welcome to Susan Koelink’s Garden
At the back of the house, you’re greeted by a beautiful iron gate and the custom plaque reading “Weathercock House”, named after a rooster weather vane which sits atop of their house. Upon walking through, you’re immediately taken into this beautiful space that has a formal lawn backed by a water feature, pots with hostas, and a bronze frog spitting fountain.
I must take a moment to admire this fountain. The magazine and I took similar photos of it and were both clearly drawn to it. Even years apart, the frog has stayed in style. Susan’s garden has remained timeless ever since her big overhaul over two decades ago.
A Garden With History
Susan first moved into the house with her husband Tony in 1979. It was already landscaped with perennials and shrubs.
It wasn’t until the 2000s when their last child left the nest that they decided to put their personal stamp on it. They removed the basketball court, swing set, and even a sunroom that they didn’t use to make the space their own sanctuary.
This beautiful Japanese maple covers a sitting area in Susan’s garden.
Working with the landscape designer Ron Rule, they completely transformed the 66 x 120 ft. space.
Since then, the garden has been on many tours, both local and international, and featured in many magazines. In fact, it’s been featured in Garden Gate magazine three times! Twice in 2006 in March/April and May/June, as well as once in 2007 in November/December.
Over the past twenty years, Susan has collected some very special plants. She has over twenty different kinds of epimedium alone, plus some beautiful hellebores, peonies, and rhododendrons, as well as unusual perennials like P. peltatum. ‘Spotty Dotty and a Cardiocrinum Himalayan lily.
A stunning clematis in Susan’s garden, Clematis florida ‘Sieboldii’
‘Lagerfeld’ rose
A Lasting Impact
Susan’s garden is a really great example of how good design can stand the test of time. The original magazine articles featuring the garden were nearly twenty years ago, and you can see in my pictures that the space has withheld its beauty and style.
The garden is really special partly because of its well-designed layout, which creates multiple beautiful spaces. Within the garden, there are three patios, a gorgeous woodland side path, and three areas of lawn. Amongst it all, you’ll notice great hardscaping details and amazing views.
One of the formal lawn areas.
A Colourful Theme
While many components of Susan’s garden are timeless, that doesn’t mean she experiments a little every year. For instance, this year her colour theme was a deep purple and coral.
The fence has been painted a deep purple, while the front door and steps have been painted orange with a purple doormat. This theme weaves its way throughout the garden, where you’ll see many spottings of orange and purple flowers sprinkled.
The painted purple fence.
Even Susan’s outfit for the day was in purple and orange!
Susan has an overall magic with colour. Her patios have a gorgeous selection of container planting, and she loves adding flowers for the hummingbirds.
Susan matched her front door and mat.
Perfection in the Details
It’s rare to see a gardener who has such an eye for detail. She makes small changes every year, while the key components remain the same.
The terracotta pots match the flowers.
Look at all the decorative features on the pots as well!
She picks a coral flower to sit in the birdbath during my visit, reflecting beautifully in the water.
A concrete bird amidst a bird’s nest of branches.
This birdbath statue is covered in a wreath of real branches for extra detail.
One beautiful detail I wasn’t able to capture was that the stained glass window mimicked the colours of the terracotta pot as well as its shape.
The garden is Susan’s passion, and it really shows.
Almost all of Susan’s containers had beautiful detailing.
Scented pinecones are an easy, affordable, and festive way to add some festive fragrance to your home this season. Start off with the vanilla and pumpkin spice hues of fall, then transition into the pine and cinnamon scents of Christmas. And do it all by foraging for your own pinecones!
Many people believe that aromatherapy has the power to heal our bodies and calm our minds. Whether you believe in the purported healing benefits of aromatherapy or not, smelling your favourite fragrances can make you feel relaxed, revitalized, and comforted.
This can be especially nice during the holiday season if you scent your home with festive, cozy fragrances that make you want to curl up and relax.
Use natural essential oils to fill your home with the warmth of the holidays by making this pinecone aromatherapy diffuser! Scented pinecones are easy to make at home as long as you follow a few important steps.
Here’s how to make them!
Use essential oils for a natural but effective scent.
How to Make Scented Pinecones
What I love most about this craft is how affordable and easy it is to make. You can also customize it with any scent you like and add some extra pizzazz, such as I did with the cinnamon sticks and star anise.
Materials
Make It!
If you don’t already have a supply of pinecones that you’ve collected for crafting, take a walk around a park, wooded area, or tree-lined street and collect a number of pinecones in varying sizes. Choose recently fallen cones that are intact and have a nice shape.
Fill a sink with warm, soapy water and gently wash the pinecones. Once they are clean, take them out of the sink, shake off excess water, and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
For this project, it is best to use pinecones that are completely dry and as open as possible, and the best way to ensure this is to “bake” them in the oven at a low temperature to dry out thoroughly.
Put the pinecones in the oven at around 200 degrees F (or whatever the lowest heat setting of your oven is) until they look open and feel very dry, about 30 minutes to an hour. Take them out of the oven and let cool completely before working with them.
Next comes the fun bit: pick the combination of scents you want to use! I prefer to use only all-natural, pure essential oils as they smell better than synthetic fragrances, and they don’t contain harmful chemicals.
Baking pinecones helps to sanitize them, get rid of any bugs, and open them up fully.
Scenting Your Pinecones
You can choose any scents that you like, but here are some of my favourite essential oils for fall and winter:
To blend your signature essential oil fragrance, add the desired amount of each of your chosen essential oils into the empty glass bottle using the dropper. Screw the lid on and shake the bottle well, mixing the essential oils together to create a new scent combination.
Now, you are ready to scent your pinecones. Using the dropper, apply the essential oil to the gaps in the pinecones. Essential oils are quite strong, so you don’t need a lot to scent your pinecones—just three or four drops per cone is plenty.
Lay the pinecones out in an attractive dish or bowl along with some whole spices for an even more pleasant scent and an attractive holiday display. When the scent fades, simply add a few more drops of your custom essential oil blend to the pinecones.
I added cinnamon sticks, star anise, and some cloves for decoration.
FAQ About Making Scented Pinecones
How long do scented pinecones last?
The scent lasts me for about two weeks. Afterward, all they need is a quick refresh by adding some more essential oils to your pinecones.
How do you make pinecones smell Christmassy?
To make your pinecones smell like walking through a winter forest, combine cypress, cedarwood, and sweet bird essential oils.
Another great combination to try for a sweeter Christmassy scent is sweet orange, cinnamon leaf, and vanilla absolute essential oils.
Find more Christmas scent combinations in this post.
How to refresh scented pinecones?
All you need to do is add 3-4 drops to each pinecone. Utilizing a dropper can help, or you can shake the essential oils directly onto the pinecones.
Lavender dryer bags are a natural way to freshen laundry and a good use for dried lavender harvested from your garden. Lavender is a lightly floral but clean-smelling fragrance that adds a little lift to your laundry.
Get all natural scents with
Four years ago I swapped out chemical-laden dryer sheets for sachets of lavender and I’m so much happier with how my clothes feel and smell.
Of course, the best option is to line-dry your laundry in the sunshine and let the garden perfume it that way. There is no better way to remove odours from laundry than to dry the fabric in the sun!
Unfortunately, you can’t line dry outdoors all year in many places. In rainy Vancouver, I would have to wait for months for my clothes to dry. In those winter months, I turn to the dryer but bring some of the garden into the laundry room with me.
Dryer bags can be filled with the dried flower buds and used many times over before needing to be replaced. Adding in a few essential oils will give your laundry a fresh and natural garden scent that makes you feel wonderful as you cozy into your freshly washed bed clothes or pull on a sweet-smelling shirt.
Here’s how I use them!
Avoid artificial fragrances with lavender and essential oils.
Lavender Dryer Bags to Freshen Your Laundry
Making your own lavender dryer bags takes just seconds to make. You can also customize these dryer bags with other scented flowers and essential oils.
Materials
Dried lavender
Drawstring muslin bags
Lavender essential oil (optional)
Make It!
Lavender dryer bags are made simply from lavender scooped into small drawstring muslin bags like these. These bags are typically sold as bouquet garni bags for adding herbs to soups, stocks, or stews. If you don’t grow your own lavender, you can purchase it in bulk online.
When you have filled the bag with lavender, tie it tightly in a few knots and then wrap the string around the top and tie again. This will ensure that it will not come apart in the dryer. Toss a bag in with the laundry to add a light fragrance. Each dryer bag will last for ten loads in the dryer.
Lavender dryer bags will also make a great gift! Present a set of 6 bags in a vintage jar wrapped with ribbon. The sealed jar will help keep the bags fresh when you store them in your laundry room.
Store your lavender bags in a sealed jar to help retain the fragrance.
FAQ About Lavender Dryer Bags
Are dryer sheets bad for you?
Dryer sheets are used to help add fragrance and reduce static, but they do have quite a long list of chemicals. While all of them are generally recognized as safe by the FDA, I try to avoid unnecessary chemicals when I can. And these dryer bags are an easy addition for fragrance, as well as vinegar for static (see FAQ below).
One of the main concerns for dryer sheets is artificial fragrances. Many chemical fragrances can cause irritations to the skin, eyes, and lungs of people, as well as are known to cause migraines.
When do you put the lavender bags into the dryer?
I add my lavender dryer bags at the same time that I add the laundry. I leave them in for the whole time. One lavender sachet should last you about ten loads in the dryer.
How can I add lavender fragrance to my clothes without a dryer?
If you choose to hang dry your clothes and linens, I recommend using my lavender linen water spray. I spray this on all my linens when they need some freshening up, including clothes, the couch, pillows, and sheets.
Can I use fresh lavender?
I recommend using dried lavender to make these dryer bags.
Do these dryer bags also reduce static?
These dryer bags are designed just to provide a nice light lavender fragrance. To get rid of static, I’ll add vinegar into my wash cycle. To do this, I fill up the fabric softener cup with vinegar and add a few drops of either rosemary or grapefruit essential oils.
How much lavender should I use per bag?
I put my lavender into 4×6 bags, filling them up completely (but so they can still fully close). I have LOTS of lavender growing at my house, so this is no problem. You can also use smaller 3×4 bags.
There are so many ways you can use fresh herbs from your garden, but this is my new favourite! Herb-infused vinegar gives you practically unlimited flavour combinations that you can use on salads, as dips, or even by the spoonful. Here’s how to make herb vinegar, plus a few of my favourite combinations to get you started.
I love love love herbs. They are a delicious, beautiful, and healing part of my garden that has become integral to my daily life.
I’m always looking for different ways to get more herby goodness into my life, which is why I have started making herb-infused vinegar more and more lately.
These vinegars are amazing to use with cooking, adding so much flavour even long after the herbs themselves are gone. If you have extra herbs and want to preserve their flavour in a fun way, give one of my herb vinegar recipes below.
This post will cover…
You can use all kinds of vinegar and herbs to make custom flavour combinations.
DIY Herb Vinegar
Don’t think I’m the originator of this fabulous idea, however. Herb vinegar is a traditional herbal preparation method that has been used for hundreds of years. Not only will it preserve the flavour profile of the herbs, but it will also keep the health benefits intact as well.
These infused vinegars are a great alternative to an alcohol-based tincture if you want an herbal extract that doesn’t contain alcohol. Plus, these kinds of vinegar are delicious!
There are so many different tasty kinds of vinegar out there and endless combinations of herbs that you can use to create a custom artisanal vinegar blend that’s all your own. I have a few favourite recipes that I’ll share below, but I hope you use them as a jumping-off point to get even more creative with your herb/vinegar mixtures.
These vinegars can be used for cooking as well as herbal recipes and tinctures.
What Kind of Vinegar Should I Use?
In addition to the many health benefits of herbs, vinegar itself can also have positive effects.
It is a good idea to invest in quality vinegars (especially fruit vinegar like apple cider) to get the most healthful and delicious infusion.
Plus, the flavour profile will change immensely depending on which type of vinegar you use as the base. Here are a few options to try:
Apple cider vinegar is made from fermented apples and is often used in natural wellness recipes (such as fire cider).
Rice vinegar is a delicate, lovely vinegar made from…you guessed it, fermented rice! This type of vinegar is commonly used in Asian cooking.
White vinegaris one of the most inexpensive and most-used types around. The flavour tends to be sharp and intense, so I typically will not use this one on its own. You can easily use a 1:1 ratio of this with another vinegar.
White wine vinegaroften gets confused with white vinegar, but this type is made from fermented white wine and is quite a bit sweeter.
Balsamic vinegaris arguably the most popular type of vinegar. This sweet, thick vinegar is dark in colour and pairs nicely with fruits as well as herbs for infusion.
Apple cider vinegar is a great choice to make infused vinegar for salad dressings.
Tips for Infusing Vinegar
It’s best to make your initial infusion in a large Mason jar, then strain out the herbs when pouring it into a sterilized vinegar bottle.
Making infused vinegar is somewhat quick, too. The herbs will start to flavour the vinegar in just 24 hours, but the taste of the herbs will become more prominent after a few weeks.
There’s no rule as to when it must be ready by. Instead, let your sense of taste be your guide when determining if your herb vinegar is ready or not.
Use fresh herbs for your infused vinegar to get the best taste.
Feel free to add a few herbs to the bottles to give it that homemade look, but they are best strained out after a month or so to prevent spoiling.
However, once your custom infused vinegar starts getting used as salad dressing and bread dip, I’m sure it won’t last that long!
Once infused, you can strain out your herbs and place your infusion in a vinegar bottle.
Infused Vinegar Combinations to Try
You can pack really any herbs that you want into the infusion. Some of the combinations that I love are:
Parsley, Rosemary, and Sage Infused Vinegar
Pack a handful of parsley, rosemary, and sage in a jar with ½ rice vinegar and ½ white wine vinegar for a rich flavoured vinegar that’s a bit sweet and perfect for Thanksgiving dinner.
Fennel and Citrus Infused Vinegar
Add fresh fennel or crushed fennel seeds with the zest of one lemon, lime, and orange to apple cider vinegar. This bright and fruity combination pairs well with a spinach salad with mandarin slices and toasted almonds.
Tarragon and Garlic Infused Vinegar
Fresh tarragon sprigs and garlic cloves are all that is needed to make this fine vinegar, which is usually reserved for gourmet grocery store shelves. Use delicate white wine vinegar to ensure the sweet but earthy tarragon flavour has a chance to shine.
Add a custom label and fresh herb sprig to make this the perfect hostess gift!
Herb Infused Vinegar FAQ
What is the shelf life of herb-infused vinegar?
When using fresh herbs, the shelf life is about six months to a year after you infuse and strain the herbs.
When I give herb-infused vinegar as gifts, I like to add a fresh sprig after I infuse it for aesthetics. However, the vinegar is only good for about a month before it will spoil, so keep this in mind.
Should I store my herb-infused vinegar in the fridge?
You can store it in the fridge to help it last longer, but it’s definitely not necessary. I store mine in the cabinet, and it’s completely fine. It gets used well within the six months.
What is herb-infused vinegar used for?
I use my herb vinegar as salad dressings or as a bread dip. You can also add it to vegetables while cooking, or in place of vinegar any time it’s required in a recipe for added flavour.
As you can see, making your own infused vinegar is a simple DIY that any gardener can take advantage of! Which one will you try first?
Love Herbs? You Might Like These Posts
DIY Herb Infused Vinegar
Use your garden herbs and make an easy herb-infused vinegar. The combinations are endless- here’s how to make a batch of your own!
With fuzzy leaves and pretty flowers that come in white, purple, and blue, African violets are a charming houseplant. This guide will show you exactly how to help your favourite houseplant thrive with African violet care tips that really work. Plus, learn how to propagate your plants too!
African violets are known as friendship plant and are often used as a symbol of loyalty, devotion, and faithfulness. For those reasons, it’s long been a favourite for gifting! Whether you purchased one of these cheerful plants or received one as a gift, this guide will help you keep them thriving.
I’ll show you how to care for African violets as well as some of my propagation tips so you can have violets galore! It truly is the gift that keeps giving.
With proper care, African violets can provide almost continuous blooms in a rainbow of colours and leaf shapes. Although flower size, petal type, and colour vary widely, plants generally grow from four to seven inches tall, with hairy leaves and tightly grouped clusters of flowers.
The African violet belongs to the family Saintpaulia and is native to Africa. They are one of the most popular cultivated houseplants in the world today and are particularly well suited to the home environment. There are now thousands of varieties in existence, with new hybrids being developed almost daily.
So, without further ado, here’s my African violet care guide!
While they may appear similar, African violets are not part of the violet family, Violaceae.
Basics of African Violet Care
Although African Violets are hardy little plants, they still require their own unique care. Follow these steps and you will have a happy little plant that likes to share their blooms with you.
Wicking African Violets for Better Water Delivery
Proper watering is essential to African violet care. In fact, keeping these plants healthy often comes down to watering. By far, the most common way to kill an African violet is to overwater it. There are a few things you can do to ensure you are properly watering your violet.
Always water at the base of the plant, and avoid getting water on the leaves. Leaves are susceptible to rot if they get too moist. You also want to ensure you only water with room temperature water as cold water can chill the roots and cause your leaves to curl downwards. Only water once a week and allow the plant to completely dry between waterings.
One ingenious way of making sure your African violets are never over-watered is by setting up a wicking system. To do so, draw three lengths of string from different points at the base of the plant down through the soil and out the hole at the bottom of the pot. With marbles or small stones, raise the pot off the drip tray by at least half an inch. Secure the strings under the layer of stones.
When you place water in the tray, it is drawn up through the strings into the planting medium where the roots have safe access to it. This method of watering ensures that the plant receives a regular source of moisture but is never left with its roots sitting in water.
With the right care, African violets can live up to 50 years!
The Best Soil for African Violets
For African violets to flourish, they require a special soil composed of two parts peat mossalternatives, one part perlite, and one part standard potting mix. This keeps the soil well-aerated. The soil should be loose and well-drained. You can also add organic matter to the mix if you wish.
When selecting pots, the smaller the better! African violets do well in small pots and don’t necessarily need to be repotted very often. You can repot into a slightly larger pot once a year, but they also will flourish and produce more blooms when rootbound.
African Violet Care – Keeping Them Healthy
African violets are very hardy and do best in indirect or filtered sunlight. If it is getting too much light, you may notice brown spots forming on the plant. On the opposite side, a violet that is not getting enough light will produce thin, dark leaves and leggy stems. Other indicators include yellowing leaves and failure to produce blooms.
To ensure your plant is getting equal amounts of light, try rotating the pot every time you water. Otherwise, you may notice your plant reaching for the light. This isn’t unique to violets and is actually a good routine to implement for most houseplants.
I recommend fertilizing your violets every two weeks during the spring and summer seasons. They also need an acidic fertilizer specially designed for them. You can fertilize with specific African violet food or a fertilizer with a high phosphorous level. I make my own fertilizer and use it on all my houseplants. If you notice reduced flowers and pale leaves, it could mean that your violet is not getting enough fertilizer.
When it comes to temperature, your African violet will follow you. If you feel comfortable, so will your African violet. They also really like humidity, so if that’s something you also enjoy, then you have even more traits in common!
Although their temperature requirements are not critical if they are maintained in the home, they should be kept well back from the window if temperatures outside are going to be near or below freezing.
Encouraging More Blooms
Most people buy African violets to appreciate their blooms. When we fail to get blooms or have very few, that’s when we begin to scratch our heads. If there are no flowers, it could mean the plant is not getting enough light. Alternatively, violets need at least eight hours of darkness to bloom which could be an issue if you use grow lights.
Another reason could actually be too many leaves. Each rosette of leaves will produce one round of flowers. If you prune off the largest outer layer of leaves, it will encourage more violet blooms.
As mentioned earlier, keeping your violet rootbound can also encourage them to bloom. Finally, always remove spent flowers and foliage to encourage your violet to produce more. Look at your violet and see if any of these may be the culprit behind zero blooms!
Propagating African Violets
Who doesn’t want a ton of tiny little African violets!? I like to propagate African violets often since they look so lovely in clusters. Always be sure to start off with more cuttings than you think you’ll need, as all of them may not be successful.
Whether you want more or you are propagating a bunch for gifting, this is my surefire way to propagate violets.
Propagating African violets from cuttings are the easiest way to get more plants.
Choose healthy leaves from the middle of the plant, as the outer ones will be too old and the inner ones will be too young.
Make a cutting at the base of the stem, careful to leave no stem on the host plant as it will rot. Shorten your cuttings to one inch.
Water your soil and place it into SMALL containers. Poke a pencil in the soil to make room for the stem.
Optional. Lightly dip your stem into a rooting hormone and tap off the excess. This will help encourage the leaf to grow roots.
Place your stem into the soil, letting the tip of the leaf just touch the surface of the soil. Pat down the soil firmly.
Put a support behind your leaf to help hold it up.
Optional. Place your pots in a makeshift greenhouse, such as an empty salad container. This will help to keep the humidity level in and keep warm temperatures.
Place your cutting in a well-lit, bright spot that won’t get too hot. Wait and be patient!
Transplant when the leaf has sprouted a good root system and a few small leaflets have grown.
Wait until there are some leaflets formed before planting your cuttings.
African Violet Care FAQs
Can you propagate African violets from seed?
Most people choose to propagate African violets from cuttings or plant divisions, but it is possible to grow them from seed. However, you need to cross-pollinate two plants for the plant to produce seeds, and the resulting seeds may not be the same type of African violet as the parents.
For this reason, it’s best to purchase seeds from a reputable seller rather than try to save the seeds yourself. I have not personally grown African violets from seed, but other sources say they’re fairly simple to start from seed.
Why are my African violet blooms small?
Your flowers can change based on the conditions in which they grew. When you first get them, they might have big blooms because they grew in a greenhouse with optimal conditions. At your home, they might have less sunlight or fertilizer than they’re used to, so they’ll produce smaller blooms. The more favourable the conditions, the bigger the blooms will be.
How many times a year do African violets bloom?
When properly cared for, African violets can bloom year-round. To encourage more blooms, make sure to deadhead any spent blooms by trimming them with sterilized scissors. Correct light is also essential.
I hope by now, African violets are a little less intimidating than they were before! With a little planning and understanding, African violets can beautify your home and be fun and easy to grow.
If picking out a fresh Christmas tree is a yearly tradition for your family, make sure you get the right one! They all might look similar at first glance, but some are better suited for different reasons. Here are some of the best types of Christmas trees and how to pick the BEST one for your family.
What makes the best Christmas tree? Having sold fresh-cut Christmas trees for many years, I can attest to the old adage that beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
In truth, your best type of Christmas tree may look vastly different from someone else’s. Size, shape, branch density, needle length, colour, and fragrance are some personal preferences that will play into the final decision.
For many of us, there is a specific tree species that just “smells like Christmas” because we grew up with that type.
But if you’re looking for the name of your favourite tree or want to experiment this year, here are some of the best types of Christmas trees to consider.
In this article, we will cover:
Visiting a Christmas tree farm and cutting down a tree yourself is a must-try experience.
How to Pick the Best Type of Christmas Tree
Each tree species has certain characteristics that have made it popular. Whether it’s the rigidity of the branch tips, how well it retains its needles, or a striking fragrance, each variety has something special to offer.
Within a single species, pruning affects the overall shape and branch density: natural growth tends to be more open, frequent shearing leads to dense branches.
When looking at the different types of Christmas trees, you can keep a lookout for a few things:
Fresh trees should not be losing many needles. You can test this by tapping the tree on the ground and seeing how many needles fall off. Alternatively, you can pull along a branch. Only a few needles should come loose.
Sickness or decay. The tree should not smell musty or have any kind of spots. This could indicate that the tree was cut while sick or cut too long ago.
Height and width. Measure your Christmas tree to ensure that it will fit inside your home. Bring along a measuring tape, and be sure to measure before you head to the Christmas tree lot, too.
Test needle retention before buying a Christmas tree.
The Different Types of Christmas Trees
There are many different types of trees that are commonly sold as Christmas trees.
While I don’t have pictures of all of them, I highly recommend you bring along with you a plant identification app in case the trees aren’t labelled. I have listed my favourite and most reliable apps here, to help you identify what types of Christmas trees you’re working with.
When you’re out shopping, keep an eye out for these names. Here are some of the best types of Christmas trees and what you need to know about each.
1. Fraser Fir
This is the most popular fresh Christmas tree in North America. They’re extremely hardy, and Canadian tree farmers ship them all over the world. Its needles are ½ to 1 inch long, dark green above and blue-green beneath. Needle retention is excellent, and the scent is pleasantly sweet and slightly pungent.
Fraser fir identifiers:
More slender shape
Slightly upturned branches
Shorter needles ½ to 1 inch long
Dark green needles with blue-green bottoms
You can see Fraser Fir branches used in this project, where I made a candle wreath as a holiday centrepiece.
2. Noble Fir
The noble fir, with its rigid branches, is a fantastic choice for heavy ornaments. Its branches grow in whorls around the trunk, giving it a “tiered” effect. The upturned needles show both the medium-green surface colour and blue-green underside.
Noble fir identifiers:
Blue-green needles with white bands on the side
Pale grey to purplish bark
Large upright pine cones
Rigid branches
3. Douglas Fir
Don’t let the name fool you! A Douglas fir is actually a type of pine tree. Douglas fir is grown and shipped all over North America. The 1-1.5 inch dark green, soft needles radiate in all directions from the stem, giving it a full appearance. The needle retention is less than other trees, but it is also usually a less costly tree.
Douglas fir identifiers:
Classic Christmas tree scent
Heavier branches
Dark green needles that point in all directions
Softer needles compared to spruce
Pointy, papery, reddish-brown buds
Kiddo posing with a Douglas Fir that needs a few more years before it can become a Christmas tree.
4. Balsam Fir
Needles are dark green, ¾ to 1.5 inches long, and last a long time. They’re easy to decorate but may not hold heavy ornaments well. The scent of the crushed needles is very pleasant, lasting throughout the holiday season. It’s one of the most popular options in Canada, being the top Christmas tree in Quebec and New Brunswick’s official tree.
Balsam fir identifiers:
Flat needs with white bands on the underside
Dark green needles
Narrow and pointed crown
Thin grey, smooth bark with resin blisters
5. Grand Fir
This type of tree is darker green with flat needles. It’s softer to the touch than other trees, so it’s pleasant to decorate!
Grand fir identifiers:
Citrus-like scent
Lighter branches
Glossy green colour and curved boughs
Flat needs with rounded ends
Smooth bark with resin blisters and white spots
6. Nordman Fir
Nordman fir has longer needles than the noble or Fraser firs, giving it a softer look. The needles are deep, glossy green and have needle retention similar to that of both the noble and Fraser firs.
Nordman fir identifiers:
Softer, glossy green needles with blunt tips
Needles all around the branch
Slightly longer needles
Lack of a significant scent
Nordman fir has great needle retention.
7. Colorado Blue Spruce
This popular option is a great choice for a living Christmas tree. In addition to the unique blue-green or gray-green foliage, it features a good shape and dense branches when young.
Colorado blue spruce identifiers:
Blue-grey tinted needles with sharp points
Dense foliage and pyramid-shape
Branches are horizontal to the ground
Smelly when you crush the needles
8. Scotch Pine
Scotch pine is the most heavily planted fresh Christmas tree variety. Its needles are 1-3 inches long and medium green, perfect for holding onto ornaments. Needle retention is excellent, even when it dries out.
Scotch pine identifiers:
Medium-green needles
Long needles (1-3 inches)
Orange bark when mature
Oval crown
I like finding pine cones on my trees, but I also keep an eye out for unwanted Christmas tree additions.
9. Eastern White Pine
This tree has some of the longest needles in this listing, giving it a soft appearance. Needle retention is good. Because of its faint scent, this is a good choice for anyone sensitive to heavy fragrances.
Eastern white pine identifiers:
Long blue-green needles
Soft in appearance
Needles curve at their ends
Dark green smooth bark when young, and dark brown to black when older
Living Christmas Trees
Potted trees have become very popular because they can be planted in the landscape after serving their ornamental purpose indoors. Go for the type that fits your garden style.
I especially like lemon cypress trees, which is what I use to make my mini Grinch trees.
The best part about a living Christmas tree? You get to keep it!
Frequently Asked Questions About Christmas Trees
Which type of Christmas tree is most popular?
The most popular types of Christmas trees are fir trees since they tend to shed fewer needles when they dry, all while maintaining scent and colour. While it varies significantly depending on where you live, Fraser fir and balsam fir are the most popular types of Christmas trees. Fraser fir is known for its longevity, while balsam fir is known for its classic Christmas tree scent and low price point.
What kind of tree is a Christmas tree?
Just about any evergreen tree can work as a Christmas tree. The Christmas tree tradition came from Pagans as they brought boughs of evergreens inside the home during the winter solstice to remind them of the green plants that would return in the spring. The first Christmas trees appeared in Germany in the 16th century, when Martin Luther brought a fir tree into his home to decorate.
What is the Best Smelling Christmas Tree?
One of the best features of purchasing a real Christmas tree instead of a fake one is the scent. A balsam fir will give you the most scent, but they do tend to dry out more quickly than other trees. If this will be a concern for you, a Douglas fir or Fraser fir also has a scent and will last longer.
Which Christmas Tree Lasts the Longest?
Fraser fir will last you the longest, at about 5 weeks. If you like to buy your tree early, this one should still be looking good by Christmas time. A Douglas fir will also last quite a while at 4 weeks. Scotch pine also lasts for 3 weeks.
Yes, some varieties do better than others, but there’s more to it. When it comes down to a long-lasting Christmas tree, the results will mostly come from proper care. Learn more about Christmas tree care tips here!
What are the Main Differences Between a Douglas Fir vs Fraser Fir?
Both the Douglas fir and Fraser fir can last a long time in the home and are some of the best Christmas trees. Fraser firs tend to be slender and work well in small rooms as their branches turn slightly upward. A Douglas fir will appear slightly bushier and wider.
Due to their soft needles, both trees can withstand the heat of being inside a home. Fraser fir has slightly shorter needles measuring ½ to 1 inch long while Douglas fir’s needles measure 1-1.5 inches. They have a similar dark green colour, though Douglas firs tend to have worse needle retention. Their lower price point reflects that.
What are the Main Differences Between a Grand Fir vs Douglas Fir?
Grand firs tend to be one of the most fragrant Christmas trees out there, evoking a citrus like scent. Douglas firs are also scented but bring the more classic Christmas tree scent you’re probably familiar with. Both trees have the classic cone shape, though grand firs are a little fuller.
The branches of a grand fir tend to be lighter and Douglas fir branches will hold heavier ornaments better. The needles of a Douglas fir are dark green, radiating in all directions. Grand fir needles come in a glossy green colour with a slight curve of the boughs.
Douglas firs tend to be more common due to their popularity, so you may have greater difficulty finding a grand fir. Douglas firs will last around 4 weeks while grand firs are only good for about 2 weeks before they begin dropping their needles.
The most important thing to keep in mind while shopping for the best type of Christmas tree is that all-natural trees have slight physical imperfections. Some even contain bird nests or praying mantis egg sacks. Let these things serve as a reminder not to take decorating too seriously or obsess over minutia. Allow the natural beauty of the tree to take center stage for your holiday decor.
Using cinnamon for plants as an antifungal is an old wives’ tale I’ve heard about for years. Like magic fairy dust, gardeners sprinkle cinnamon in their potting soil to help their seedlings. I wanted to know just how much truth there was to this claim, so I did some digging. Here’s what I found out about using cinnamon for plants.
Based on scent alone, cinnamon holds a special place in my heart. But it also has plenty of robust health and cleaning properties.
It’s a proven fact that cinnamon has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Many studies have shown cinnamon as a powerhouse spice for human health, but how much does it help plants?
Many gardeners have used cinnamon as a natural fungicide for plants. There’s lots of anecdotal evidence to suggest that cinnamon for plants is a great antifungal agent, but let’s dig a little deeper into the effects of cinnamon in the garden.
This post will cover…
What Does Cinnamon Do for Plants? The Myths in Question
When it comes to cinnamon, there are a handful of claims about its benefits for the garden.
Perhaps the biggest is that cinnamon is a natural fungicide for plants. You can use it as a spray to help prevent fungal disease, especially for damping off. When planting seedlings, people will sprinkle cinnamon in their potting soil.
Another common way to use cinnamon for plants is as a rooting hormone. People will use it alongside honey when they take clippings to encourage root growth. They roll the ends of the plants in cinnamon powder.
Finally, people also use cinnamon as an ant repellent.They will sprinkle it in the garden or as a border to stop them from entering the home.
Now, let’s see how true all of these cinnamon claims are!
What is Cinnamon?
It may seem like a simple question, but there’s more to the cinnamon you find at the grocery store than you might think.
Cinnamon is a spice that comes from the inner bark of Cinnamomum trees. There are over 300 species in the Cinnamomum genus, and a handful of them are used to make cinnamon.
To gather cinnamon, they cut stems and branches from the tree and then extract the inner bark into strips. Once dried, it curls and rolls and turns into the cinnamon sticks we find at the store. Then, those sticks can be ground into powder.
Cinnamon powder comes from grinding cinnamon sticks.
The Different Kinds of Cinnamon
You’ll want to be aware of two main types of cinnamon. Ceylon (also known as Sri Lanka) cinnamon is known as the “true cinnamon,” and it’s only found at specialty stores. It comes from Cinnamomum verum trees. True cinnamon is more fragrant and has a light brown colour. It’s slightly sweeter in flavour, though most consumers can’t tell the difference.
The other kind of cinnamon is called cassia or Chinese cinnamon, which is called “fake” cinnamon. It’s made from Cinnamomum aromaticum trees. It’s what you find for sale at the grocery store and is more inexpensive. It has stiff, dark, and thick rolls.
There are a few more cinnamons you might find for sale, including C. burmannii, C. loureiroi, C. citriodorum, and C. tamale. These are also considered “fake” cinnamon varieties.
Now, the problem with all these different kinds of cinnamon is that they’re all called, well, cinnamon! This can make it confusing when reading about all the different benefits of cinnamon as they’re not all equal in their benefits and uses.
Cinnamon can also refer to the plant, the powder, the essential oil, or an extract. These can be important distinctions when using cinnamon for plants.
Several kinds of cinnamon can be found at the grocery store as “fake” cinnamon.
Cinnamon’s Antifungal Properties
The distinctive smell and flavour of cinnamon come from the oils in the plant. The plant’s derivatives, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamic acid, and cinnamate, give it powerful health properties. Cinnamaldehyde is the sure standout.
Many studies have proven the antifungal and antimicrobial properties of cinnamon for humans. It can kill fungi that cause respiratory tract infections and inhibit the growth of bacteria, including listeria and salmonella, amongst other kinds of infections. It even has anticancer properties.
There have been fewer studies of cinnamon as a natural fungicide for plants, but there is still good evidence to support that these antifungal properties work in the garden, too.
One study tested 49 essential oils against grey mould (Botrytis cinerea), and cinnamon leaf was the strongest antifungal. It also has been proven to have antifungal activity amongst other fungal diseases such as powdery mildew (Oidium murrayae) and Colletotrichum gloesporioides.
Damping off is a horticultural disease caused by mould or a fungus that commonly affects new seedlings.
Does Cinnamon Work in the Garden?
It would be easy to suggest that all these studies prove that cinnamon’s antifungal properties would translate as magic in the garden.
The only problem is that these studies were in a controlled environment and done in a way very different than home gardeners. The study may use a specific type of cinnamon in an extract form, tested in vitro tests (in a test tube). Meanwhile, you’re using a cinnamon that comes from a different plant in powder form in a spray bottle. It’s not the same thing!
The reality is that most of these studies aren’t studying the powders we find at the grocery store. More often, they’re a more expensive cinnamon in an oil form.
Does that mean cinnamon powder won’t work in your garden? No. Does that mean it will work? Maybe. It’s definitely worth exploring and will likely have some effects on your garden. Just don’t expect it to be the miracle antifungal the internet may suggest!
If you’re looking for a natural fungicide for plants, I recommend making my chamomile fungicide as a base and adding some cinnamon. This way, you’ll be doubling up on your efforts with two potentially powerful antifungal ingredients.
Studies have shown cinnamon oil to be effective at killing mosquito larvae, controlling thrips, and the bean weevil. It has strong potential as a pest repellent, and I could see it being a great ingredient for my natural pest control spray.
How to Stop Damping Off and Other Fungal Issues
I also like to remind people that it’s not about treating fungal issues but preventing them from happening in the first place. It’s a much more effective strategy.
Here are a few tips for preventing fungal disease.
Sterile Ingredients
Use sterile ingredients that won’t stimulate fungal or bacterial growth. Most soil ingredients do not have active biology except compost. If you want to use compost inside the home, you must bake the moist soil in the sun or the oven at 180° F for at least 30 minutes. Store any leftover compost in an airtight container for future indoor and seed-starting potting mixes.
Water Correctly
Avoid overhead watering. Instead, focus the water at the base of the plant, where it will soak into the soil and the roots rather than get the leaves wet. Also, water early in the day so excess moisture will evaporate in the later sun rather than sitting overnight.
Location
Try to place plants in their ideal location as much as possible. While you may want to put some pretty annuals in a shady spot rather than the full sun they ask for, don’t force it. The reality is that the area might be too damp for them and encourage fungal growth.
Also, don’t crowd plants. Give them the right spacing requirements to promote airflow. Air circulation is essential for preventing fungal growth.
The proper sunlight requirements are among the best ways to prevent horticultural disease.
Frequently Asked Questions About Cinnamon for Plants
How often should you use cinnamon on plants?
Cinnamon powder or oil is best added to potting soil before planting seeds.
If you’re diluting cinnamon, like you would if you add it to my chamomile fungicide spray, you can spray it daily to water your seedlings or mist your established plants and soil as often as daily.
Will cinnamon hurt plants?
Cinnamon oil can affect plant growth in high concentrations. The use of cinnamon oil could be a possible natural herbicide. However, this is only in high concentrations, and the normal use of cinnamon shouldn’t affect plant growth, but there have been few studies on this. I always recommend applying a test in your garden before using it everywhere.
Can cinnamon act as a rooting agent?
I could find no evidence to suggest that cinnamon works as a rooting agent. You can use it in the water to prevent bacteria from growing, which can aid in the root developmental process, but it won’t encourage it. Try adding a drop or two of cinnamon essential oil alongside my willow water rooting hormone.
