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Tag: Middle Eastern restaurants in metro Detroit

  • Why Shawarma’s House in Westland is making superior chicken shawarma

    Why Shawarma’s House in Westland is making superior chicken shawarma

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    Shawarma’s House first came on my radar while driving back to Detroit after a long hike west of Ann Arbor. Famished after 10-miles in the woods, I craved protein, wanted it in chicken shawarma form, and it had to be from a shop close to Interstate 96.

    The option with the best Google reviews in the neighborhood was Shawarma’s House, in Westland, with a 4.9 rating on over 1,000 votes. “They must’ve hired bots, but whatever, it’s close, I’ll try it,” I thought to myself.

    Turns out it probably wasn’t bots. There’s no shortage of shawarmas in metro Detroit — even good or excellent shawarma abounds, because the universe has smiled upon us. But finding a spot that does a common dish like shawarma better than everyone else is a rarity and a joy in life, and that’s what Shawarma’s House has on offer.

    As with any simple dish of this caliber, it’s the details that make all the difference. Shawarma’s House cuts its bird from a massive inverted cone of chicken on a spit to produce small shavings. They’re intensely aromatic, moist, bright, and lemony pieces of bird that are wrapped in pita with better-than-most pickles and solid garlic sauce. Guessing on the spice combo here, but I suspect it’s driven by coriander, paprika, clove, nutmeg, cumin, and more. The aroma-generating combo and the perfect texture are what put the package in its own class.

    Shawarma’s House should not be confused with Shawarma House in Oxford, which I haven’t tried and can’t opine on. I was unable to reach the owner so I can’t give any details on its backstory, but the menu is what you’ll find at most Lebanese restaurants in the region. Though I wouldn’t pass up the chicken shawarma, the meat shawarma — or, lamb — is also super fragrant from what I’m again guessing is some combo with a heavy dose of any combo of cloves, cardamom, and cinnamon. And the sensation from that cinnamon is practically psychedelic. Awesome.

    Shawarma’s House hummus is also excellent — creamy, a bit rich, lemony — while the kofta is a solid version, with similar spice profiles in sausage form as the meat shawarma, but in a package that’s lightly charred on the outside and tender on the interior.

    The cucumber yogurt salad came with a very thin sauce, but it was a bright dish and had depth. The batatas harra, or spicy potatoes, were a bit undercooked and not particularly spicy, but still lemony and tasty, though probably would pass on the next run. On the side, each dinner comes with lentil soup, almond rice, fries, or salad, and there were no misses among them.

    Shawarma’s House is in Westland, which is a little out of orbit from where I live in Hamtramck, but this is the type of shawarma that motivates one to travel. It’s also more evidence that the Lebanese-American population that started in east Dearborn and Detroit continues pushing west, deeper into the suburbs. (When I mentioned to friends that some of the region’s finest shawarma can be found in Westland, they told me about another place in the neighborhood that allegedly has some of the best Lebanese fare.) The restaurant is mostly carryout, there are a few small tables, and the staff is friendly.

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    Tom Perkins

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  • The lamb shanks are transcendent at Saj Alreef in Sterling Heights

    The lamb shanks are transcendent at Saj Alreef in Sterling Heights

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    click to enlarge

    Tom Perkins

    At Saj Areef, the lamb’s tender meat practically falls off a huge bone.

    Among my best experiences dining in Michigan was my initial trip to Sullaf, the venerable carryout Iraqi spot on Seven Mile Road just east of Woodward in Detroit’s old Chaldeantown neighborhood.

    I entered, looked a bit confused because there was no menu, and a gruff chef curtly asked me what I wanted.” “Is there a menu?” I responded.

    “I got lamb and I got chicken,” the chef said, offering no other hint as to preparations as flames leapt off the sizzling grill behind him. I ordered both, and the massive lamb shank he handed me is etched in my memory one of the most transcendent plates I’ve ever had.

    The lamb quzi at Saj Areef, a new Iraqi restaurant in Sterling Heights, generated flashbacks to that visit and plate. The lamb’s tender meat practically falls off a huge bone, and the dish hit like few can. Quzi is a traditional Middle Eastern plate though it may slightly vary by region, and for some reason Iraqi folks seem to do it best.

    Though there are subtle hints of what I’m guessing is cardamom or clove, the preparation and high quality meat did the heavy lifting. Owner Steven Arbo touted Areef’s meats, which come from Barry and Sons and other reputable halal butchers. The quzi bites are further enhanced with the addition of jasmine rice prepared three different ways, the best of which came coated with super fragrant curry and studded with raisins. Add the pickled cabbage rendered electric yellow from turmeric to each forkful and feel your brain unleash endorphins.

    click to enlarge Saj Alreef translates roughly to “country bread.” - Tom Perkins

    Tom Perkins

    Saj Alreef translates roughly to “country bread.”

    Saj Alreef, which translates roughly into “country bread,” opened in October in Sterling Heights, a center for metro Detroit’s huge Chaldean population. Metro Detroiters are more used to Lebanese food but the recipes and palates aren’t that far apart.

    Perhaps even better than the quzi are the kebabs, which are cooked over a charcoal grill that leaves the edges with perfect char and imparts a lovely smokiness. One Iraqi kebab came with minced lamb and beef, and another with ground chicken. Both burst with flavor from what tastes like some combination of parsley, garlic, onion, sumac, cumin, cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, and more. The hunks of piquant chicken and lamb tikka kebabs stood out, the former with a nearly candied texture from the smoke.

    Saj is a type of Iraqi bread that could somewhat be likened to a tortilla in form and function, and Saj Alreef offers a list of standard Middle Eastern sandwiches wrapped with them. The chicken shawarma comes with pickles, but the beef, fragrant from perhaps cardamom or cinnamon, was the better of the two.

    We also got a platter with salads and Saj Alreef’s excellent creamy, rich hummus. Nearly everything on it is some combination of bright, fresh, lemony, acidic, punchy, slightly sweet, and balanced. A salad of charred bits of eggplant that imparted a slightly smoky element with bell peppers and red onion stood out, as did the tangy tabbouleh. It also comes with a creamy cucumber salad and a beet salad. The meals arrive with soups, and though I’m not usually a fan of lentil, this nutty version is the best I’ve ever had.

    The vibe, like the food, is bright and upbeat, and the walls are adorned with Middle Eastern infinity patterns. Saj Alreef packs it in on weekends.

    This is owner Steven Arbo’s first restaurant, though his family owns several in Iraq, and he says the kitchen is full of experienced cooks. So far, they seem to be picking up where Sullaf left off. Praise for that.

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    Tom Perkins

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