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  • AHS: Delicate Succeeds Only in Trying to Ruin “Sooner or Later” by Madonna

    AHS: Delicate Succeeds Only in Trying to Ruin “Sooner or Later” by Madonna

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    Almost as though American Horror Story is actively trying to get worse with each new season, AHS: Delicate proves to be no exception to the rule. Which is really saying something considering how atrocious AHS: NYC (which should have been called AHS: AIDS) was. And the season before that, AHS: Double Feature. In fact, the last time American Horror Story showed much promise was with AHS: 1984, before it fizzled out by the finale. Indeed, that’s been AHS’ biggest issue for a while now: losing the plot about halfway in. Not, as some would think, casting Kim Kardashian in a lead role. Because, almost as though to hit the nail over the head with the Faustian pact motif, Kardashian’s involvement in the project has actually been the most praised thing about it. But then, it’s not as though Kim playing a soulless gay man trapped inside a woman’s body is out of her “range.” Nor is it to deliver such lines as, “This is where Harvey Weinstein ejaculated into a plant. Iconic.” Because if Kim is known for one thing more than being “famous for being famous,” it’s being a fame-mongering hanger-on who will cling to any form of celebrity like stink on shit. In truth, she’ll cling to literal shit, too (never forget her appearance at the opening of the Charmin Restrooms to “ceremoniously” unlock the doors to these public toilets in Times Square). 

    As such, playing a publicist is right on-brand for all the name dropping required of such an ass-licking profession. And oh, how Kim knows all about licking ass (especially Paris Hilton’s). As does her “character,” Siobhan Corbyn, a woman who, behind the pretense of being an obsequious ballbuster, is actually, well, practically the devil herself. Or at least one of the devil’s key minions/fangirls. For that is, at her core, what Kardashian truly is: a fangirl. That much has been emphasized with her oft-repeated story about being the Queen of Pop’s neighbor when she was a kid. For, yes, she grew up in a house in Beverly Hills that was supposedly “next door” to Madonna’s…even though Madonna would have either 1) been gone most of the time during that period or 2) been living in Malibu with then-husband Sean Penn, but whatever (as Kim said on a more detailed occasion, Madonna “at a time period in her life, moved in with her manager who happened to be our next door neighbor growing up.” Though one doesn’t hear too much about a “period” when M lived with Freddy DeMann, unless it was to hide out during fights with Sean).

    Kardashian also repeated this anecdote (the one that goes with talking about how M gave her and Kourtney all her “old” jewelry) while promoting the finale of AHS on Jimmy Kimmel Live!, adding in the proclamation that she was Madonna’s “dog walker,” even though there’s also little to be found about Madonna ever owning a dog in the 80s, save for a scoured-for mention of her giving Sean Penn a puppy (though there seems to be no photographic evidence anywhere of said puppy). Lawd knows whatever happened to that poor creature. Particularly if Kardashian really was tasked with walking it. 

    In any case, she’s sure to lead with her “Madonna tales” in lieu of talking to Kimmel about the show (perhaps because it’s so shameful and it’s better to keep the focus on “stories of celebrity”). At the same time, Madonna is actually a key aspect of the show—a “running thread,” if you will. Starting in the second episode, “Rockabye.” By this point, it’s already been established that one of Siobhan’s major clients (and her “best friend”), actress Anna Alcott (Emma Roberts), is supposedly “all in” for awards season, willing to work whatever red carpet she has to in order to secure the nomination for an Oscar. All at the vehement urging of Siobhan. Her enthusiasm for “the road to Oscar” prompts her to show up at Anna’s apartment and announce, “I have a connection at The Paper Bag Princess in West Hollywood” (a very specific mention, by the way). She then proceeds to open the box she brought with her and say, “Obviously, you’re welcome.” What she then takes out is a white gown that looks absolutely nothing like the one Madonna wore at the 1991 Oscars (apart, of course, from sharing the same color).

    And yet, Anna is quick to jump on what would be an obscure reference to any non-gay viewer by gasping, “It looks just like the dress Madonna wore at the 1991 Oscars.” Siobhan replies, “That’s weird. Except it isn’t—because this is that exact dress.” Anna screams in delight as Siobhan insists, “Literally put it on.” “Do I have to, like, pray or something before?” “No, just do not rip it.” This, clearly, is an allusion to Kim Kardashian’s own back(side)lash after donning Marilyn Monroe’s iconic Jean Louis gown from the night she sang “Happy Birthday, Mr. President” at a fundraiser/birthday celebration for JFK in 1962. 

    Upon seeing Anna don the frock, Siobhan insists that they go into her room so she can see herself in the full-length mirror. She then miraculously produces a matching white stole (to further insist that this is Madonna’s exact Oscars ensemble) and proceeds to sing the most cringeworthy rendition of “Sooner or Later” possible. Of course, this isn’t the first time Kardashian has “paid homage” to this particular night in Madonna’s storied history of momentous appearances/performances at awards ceremonies. She previously dressed as M from the 1991 Oscars for one of her Halloween costumes back in 2017, with Kourtney dressed in the same garb as Madonna’s date for that evening, Michael Jackson. So yes, it would seem Kim has a stronger affinity for this pop culture moment than most. And maybe showrunner/writer of all nine episodes, Halley Feiffer, was inspired to incorporate Madonna at the 1991 Oscars precisely because Kim once dressed as her (and wore a dress that looked far more similar than the incredibly plain bullshit Anna tries on). 

    As if referencing the dress in such a sacrilegious way wasn’t enough, Anna and Siobhan then manage to sing the first verse (“Sooner or later you’re gonna be mine/Sooner or later you’re gonna be fine/Baby, it’s time that you face it I alway get my man”) before the mirror rightfully cracks and shatters in response. A mirror that already advises, “Don’t Do It Anna.” Counsel that wasn’t taken in any way, shape or form—least of all with further denigrating Madonna’s 1991 Oscar night legacy by singing the Dick Tracy anthem (which did, by the way, win the Oscar for Best Original Song that night). 

    While one might think this would be enough to sate the apparent tarnishing quota on “Sooner or Later,” Feiffer doesn’t stop there, opting to bring back the song once more in the finale (which is perhaps supposed to come off as creepy and sinister in both contexts, but only reads as utterly embarrassing—both for those singing it and those with the misfortune of watching it). Titled “The Auteur” (in honor of the “indie” movie of the same name that has earned Anna her lusted-after Oscar), the shoddily slapped together conclusion consists of Anna magically being able to combat the true villain behind everything—surprise!—Siobhan. And it’s not even really magical, so much as a witchy chant that the ghost of Adeline (Annabelle Dexter-Jones) suddenly decides to inform Anna of by reciting it with her (“Salve, o puer, Ave Hestia/Vivant liberi domini nostri,” in case you ever need it for effortlessly vanquishing the literal mother of all demons). Not really sure why no one chanted it before in front of Siobhan if it was so effective for destroying her. 

    But before that little “incantation,” Siobhan takes Anna to a full-length mirror again, just as she did in “Rockabye,” and sings the same opening verse from before. Now, of course, the meaning has taken on a darker tone, and when Siobhan goes to fetch their “libations,” a resigned Anna decides to sing the second verse to herself in surrender: “Sooner or later you’re gonna have to decide/Sooner or later there’s nowhere to hide/Baby, it’s time so why waste it with [the correct word to the lyric is actually “in” not “with”] chatter?/Let’s settle the matter/Baby, you’re mine on a platter I always—” It’s at this moment that Adeline (to reiterate, her ghost) conveniently appears to rework the “Sooner or Later” “chant” into a more powerful (for this purpose) “spell.” One that translates to: Hail, o child/Hail Hestia/Long live the children of our Lord.”

    For Siobhan’s “coven” (let’s call them the [In]Delicates), that lord is Satan. For Adeline, it’s the “beneficent” goddess of the hearth and home (because this season does whatever it can to be heavy-handed with the mother angles and “metaphors”). A “white light” to fight against the dark, evidently. To that end, despite referencing the white light that is Madonna’s Bob Mackie Oscar dress from 1991, it was turned dark by AHS’ most ill-conceived (pregnancy pun intended) season yet. Which seems odd when taking into account that surely the source material, Delicate Condition by Danielle Valentine, provided a far better blueprint. One that promises to be “the feminist update to Rosemary’s Baby we all needed.” That AHS: Delicate is not. But it does succeed quite well in nearly ruining “Sooner or Later.”

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    Genna Rivieccio

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  • Author Behind The Book Inspiring ‘American Horror Story’ Season 12 Teases ‘Physical Gruesomeness’ And ‘Medical Gaslighting’ While Suggesting Storyline 

    Author Behind The Book Inspiring ‘American Horror Story’ Season 12 Teases ‘Physical Gruesomeness’ And ‘Medical Gaslighting’ While Suggesting Storyline 

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    By Melissa Romualdi.

    Danielle Valentine, the author behind Delicate Condition — the book that’s being adapted for the upcoming season of “American Horror Story” — is giving fans a taste of the 12th season by detailing what her book is about, out August 1.

    With all the buzz surrounding the title, Delicate Condition publisher, Sourcebooks, and “AHS” creator, Ryan Murphy, have kept information surrounding both the book and show’s storylines under wraps; however, Valentine is spilling the beans on what fans can expect.

    The upcoming psychological horror-thriller centres on Valentine’s lead character Anna Alcott — whom Emma Roberts has been cast as — a New York City-based actress. After Anna’s breakthrough performance in a surprise hit indie film, she’s suddenly left navigating newfound fame “while also desperately trying to conceive a child after multiple failed rounds of IVF treatments,” as per Entertainment Weekly.

    In the novel, Anna suspects someone is trying to stop her from getting pregnant, EW reports after speaking to Valentine via a Zoom interview.

    “Could it be the anonymous online Tumblr user @Number1Fan, who’s been dragging her on the internet? Could it be the strange lady that snuck a photo of her as she entered her doctor’s office? Could it be the stranger who broke into her house one night and crept into her bed while she was sleeping? She can’t be certain of anything these days,” the outlet offers a synopsis. “Anna finds support in her close friend Siobhan, another actress who’s much more well known than she is, but her own husband doesn’t even believe her half the time. Then Anna’s worst fear becomes a reality: her doctor informs her that she has miscarried… except she can still feel the baby inside her. She can still see the physical effects it’s having on her body.


    READ MORE:
    First Look At Kim Kardashian In ‘American Horror Story’ As Chilling Teaser Is Revealed

    As someone begins stalking Anna through the Hamptons, her pregnancy symptoms grow “more severe and horrifying.” Making matters worse, no one takes her seriously when she insists something isn’t right.

    “It is essentially a horror novel about pregnancy,” Valentine teased. “It’s a novel exploring not just the actual physical gruesomeness of what pregnancy is, but also the medical gaslighting that even modern, very privileged women experience as they’re going through their pregnancies and the symptoms that I feel we as a culture still don’t talk about for strange reasons.”

    Delicate Condition has already garnered early praise, some of which liken the book to a modern, feminist version of Rosemary’s Baby. While Valentine is honoured over the comparison, she revealed she was “much more inspired by [the 1979 sci-fi/horror] “Alien”, which I think will also give readers an idea of where I’m taking this.”

    When the topic of “Alien” resurfaced, Valentine was six months pregnant with a baby girl, prompting her to begin working on a thriller concept, which she ultimately scrapped as it began to feel cliché and the characters fell flat. Then, Valentine and her husband began having conversations about another story, keeping “Alien” as the reference.

    “It’s really a movie about pregnancy, but it’s been written by a man who doesn’t understand that that’s what he’s writing about,” Valentine shared. “It’s what happens when a guy thinks, What’s the scariest possible thing I can come up with? And it’s this idea of, what if you’re growing this creature inside of you and it’s using your resources to get bigger and you can’t control it? It has a mind of its own, and then one day it just bursts out of you in this gruesome, bloody mess. When I first saw it when I was a kid, it didn’t occur to me that that’s basically what pregnancy is, but at six months pregnant, I’m like, ‘Oh, wow! That’s just a pregnancy story without the pregnancy.’ That was the seed right there.”

    In just one hour, the author came up with the ideas for the story, then made sure they hadn’t been explored before by checking Rosemary’s Baby. 

    In addition to “Alien”, Stephen King, and books like The Handmaid’s Tale, several other works inspired Delicate Condition.

    Valentine credits “Buffy the Vampire Slayer”, led by Sarah Michelle Gellar, “and that idea of using horror as a metaphor for some of these bigger moments in your life.” In the book, Anna’s career as a teen actress kicked off after landing a role on a fictional show called “Spellbound” — inspired by “Buffy”.

    “Silence of the Lambs” is another project that influenced the book.


    READ MORE:
    Cara Delevingne Joins Kim Kardashian, Emma Roberts In ‘American Horror Story’ Season 12

    “Much of the horror comes from this atmospheric creeping, this dread that keeps building,” Valentine told EW, referencing that Jodie Foster vehicle in the 1991 flick.

    Like her book, “Alien” involves “a woman surrounded by men who don’t believe her,” Valentine added.

    Aside from drawing inspiration from entertainment, the writer said there’s also the horror of reality, in which she recounted the “horrifying” 2022 Roe v. Wade landmark decision that legally guaranteed abortion access in the U.S.

    “About a year before I came up with the idea for this book, I miscarried,” Valentine recalled. “That experience was very surreal and horrible and I think made me a little bit more aware as a woman of what it means to carry a child, how huge it is that we’re asking women to do that. We’re not being honest with them about the side effects and how it’s going to feel and how it’s going to change their bodies and their minds.

    “My brain is different,” she stressed. “I know women say that, and I didn’t understand what they meant. I have anxiety that I didn’t have before. I feel like a different person, physically and mentally, just from having gone through this experience. It really bothers me when I hear particularly male lawmakers and male politicians talking about how women can go through pregnancy and give the baby up for adoption or what have you, and really not giving enough weight to what it is to experience pregnancy and how life-altering that experience is.”

    Valentine noted that her later pregnancy “was about as typical as it possibly could have been,” but she still wanted to draw attention to not-so ideal experiences and feelings surrounding pregnancy, and “make it a metaphor, make it bigger, make it hyperbolic in the hopes that people who never are going to experience pregnancy, who have no desire to experience pregnancy, who haven’t experienced pregnancy yet will just feel it a little bit.”


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    Zachary Quinto Says He Was ‘Really Impressed’ With Kim Kardashian’s Acting On ‘American Horror Story’: ‘She’s Gonna Do A Wonderful Job’

    While “American Horror Story” season 12 is currently filming in New York City, using Delicate Condition as its inspiration — marking the first time the popular FX horror has adapted a novel — Valentine is eager to see how the show will adapt her material.

    Nonetheless, she couldn’t be more excited.

    “I am such a fan of Ryan Murphy and that whole team that I just have utter faith that it’s going to be glorious,” Valentine gushed. “So it’s been really easy for me to feel entirely excited for that.

    “It has been purely thrilling to watch it happen,” she added.

    This is the first time one of Valentine’s books are being adapted for a screenplay. Two of her previous works, The Merciless and Survive the Night, were considered for Hollywood projects, however neither were seen through.

    “American Horror Story” season 12’s cast includes Roberts, Michaela Jaé Rodriguez, Cara Delevingne, Kim Kardashian, and “AHS” veteran Zachary Quinto.

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    Melissa Romualdi

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  • How TikTok Remade the Runway

    How TikTok Remade the Runway

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    Thom Browne swears he doesn’t plan on going viral when putting together his fashion shows; he doesn’t even think about how they might play on the internet.

    Instead, he crafts his shows—which, really, are much more like pieces of theater—to tell a story to those attending in real life. “For me, it’s more interesting that you get this more intimate experience in regard to what the collection is saying, or what I want to say through the collection,” Browne says.

    Still, when you cast Golden Globe-winning actress Michaela Jaé Rodriguez as a modern-day Cinderella and send her down the runway in a pink tulle Cadillac to close the show, as Browne did for his spring 2023 collection, you’re bound to attract more than a few eyeballs online. And on TikTok, there are a lot of eyeballs to be had: The hashtag #fashionmonth alone had a staggering 228 million views in September 2022.

    A pixelated look from Loewe spring 2023 nodded to the digital world.

    Peter White/Getty Images

    Fashion has always found its way onto social media, whether through archive-obsessed Tumblr accounts or the in-depth analyses found on high-fashion Twitter—and, of course, Instagram, with its reputation for glossy images, has been the reigning platform of choice for many years. But, armed with a video-forward ethos, TikTok is poised to take over.

    “Instagram almost feels like it’s very controlled, like a traditional media outlet,” says Alyssa Mosley, a stylist and content creator who has found an audience as a TikTok creator (@alyssamosley_). “[TikTok] is like the people’s platform.”

    Intentional or otherwise, the spring 2023 season was packed with eye-catching moments perfect for the kind of bite-size videos that find success on TikTok. Courrèges created a giant sandpit for its runway, while Balenciaga’s catwalk took the form of a dystopian mudslide. Gucci’s twin parade, with a cast of 68 pairs of identical twins revealed in a surprise finale twist, was a huge hit on the app, too. “I definitely think the larger brands with the budgets have been trying a little bit harder to achieve those viral moments,” Mosley says. “A lot of brands are really having fun with their production and set design to draw attention.”

    pairs of twin models walking at gucci's spring 2023 show

    Gucci’s spring 2023 show featured 68 pairs of identical twins.

    Gucci via Pixelformula/SIPA/Shutterstock

    But perhaps no show illustrates the power of going viral quite like Coperni’s. In August 2022, the #coperni hashtag was doing admirably, clocking some 1.9 million views. Then, at the end of September, the brand closed its spring 2023 fashion show with a bang. Bella Hadid stepped onto a platform and was promptly sprayed down with a white material. With a few minor tweaks—a tug at the shoulders, a cut up the front to reveal some leg—Hadid took her finale walk in a dress literally created on her body less than a minute before.

    The moment went viral just about everywhere, but on social media, the proof is in the numbers: On TikTok, #coperni jumped to 7.3 million views in September, and then an astonishing 123 million views in October. (Hadid saw her name gain power, too, with #bellahadid going from 272 million views in August to 524 million views in October.)

    Another quick route to viral success? Tapping into celebrity, of course. Famous people have been a mainstay in fashion for decades, but brands looking to make extra headlines know an A-list name goes a long way. Dolce & Gabbana partnered with Kim Kardashian for its spring 2023 collection, while Balmain and Versace featured famous faces on their runways (Cher and Paris Hilton, respectively). For his production, Browne tapped actress Gwendoline Christie to play “Charming” alongside Rodriguez’s “Cindy.”

    And, because TikTok has minted so many celebrities, designers are now inviting popular creators to sit front row at their shows, whether it’s Addison Rae at Givenchy or Wisdom Kaye at Ralph Lauren. “A lot of brands are really utilizing that celebrity, especially youth—so TikTok stars who wouldn’t traditionally be in the fashion space are being invited to a lot of different shows because they do draw attention,” Mosley says.

    True fashion fanatics need not fret, though: The focus is still on the clothes. Loewe’s punchy, trompe l’oeil pixelated pieces cut through the noise, as did Maximilian Davis’s red-tinged debut at Ferragamo. Going viral on TikTok is just another way that designers can spread their message to an entirely new—and, apparently, eager—audience.

    “I love putting provocative ideas in front of people. I think it is important to open people’s minds, open them up to really thinking differently about clothing or, culturally, what’s going on,” Browne says of his own viral moment. “I like that there’s a reaction. I do. I’m not doing my job if there’s just a mediocre reaction.”

    This article appears in the February 2023 issue of ELLE.

    Headshot of Tyler McCall

    Freelance Writer

    Tyler McCall is a writer whose work has appeared in The Cut, GQ, Porter and more. She is the former editor-in-chief of Fashionista.com.

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  • The 16 Best Dressed Celebrities at the Golden Globes 2023

    The 16 Best Dressed Celebrities at the Golden Globes 2023

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    If the 2023 Golden Globes tell us anything about the fashion we’ll be seeing on the red carpet this awards season, we’re in for a treat.

    The first big ceremony of the circuit kicked off with a parade of standout looks. Among our favorites: Sheryl Lee Ralph’s embellished purple Aliétte number, Seth Rogen’s delightfully pink Dior Men suit, Britt Lower’s sculptural Bach Mai gown.

    Catch all the best dressed celebrities from the 2023 Golden Globes below. 

    Britt Lower Bach Mai Golden Globes 2023 Photo by Amy Sussman:Getty Images
    Michaela Jae Rodriguez Balmain Golden Globes 2023  Jon Kopaloff:Getty Images
    Michelle Williams Gucci Golden Globes 2023 Amy Sussman:Getty Images
    Michelle Yeoh Armani Privé Golden Globes 2023 Amy Sussman:Getty Images
    Nicole Byer Golden Globes 2023 Amy Sussman:Getty Images
    Margot Robbie Chanel Haute Couture Golden Globes 2023 Amy Sussman:Getty Images
    Tyler James Williams Amiri Golden Globes 2023 Jon Kopaloff:Getty Images
    Hannah Einbinder Carolina Herrera Golden Globes 2023 Jon Kopaloff:Getty Images
    Letitia Wright Prada Golden Globes 2023 Jon Kopaloff:Getty Images
    Jenna Ortega Gucci Golden Globes 2023  Jon Kopaloff:Getty Images
    Jessica Chastain Oscar de la Renta Golden Globes 2023 Jon Kopaloff:Getty Images
    Seth Rogen Dior Men Golden Globes 2023 Amy Sussman:Getty Images
    Laverne Cox vintage John Galliano Golden Globes 2023 Photo by Amy Sussman:Getty Images
    Megan Stalter vintage Versace Golden Globes 2023 Amy Sussman:Getty Images
    Jenny Slate Rodarte Golden Globes 2023 Jon Kopaloff:Getty Images

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    Ana Colón

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