As we gird ourselves to face the depths of winter, designers have something a bit more optimistic in mind: Pre-Fall 2023.
There are two big themes emerging for the (pre) season as collections roll out. One is practicality, as seen through the spacious cargo pockets, the abundance of trench coats and all the knitwear. The other is drama — think fringe that makes any movement more pronounced, high collars that call back to a few different prim -core aesthetics, goth black lace that feels primed for Wednesday Addams’ wardrobe. Also making an appearances is the aughts resurgence that now underlines pretty much any and all trends, this time paving the way for the return of statement tights.
Ahead, see the how the seven biggest trends for Pre-Fall 2023 translate across the collections.
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Precious Cargo (Pockets)
Chloé Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
3.1 Phillip Lim Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Brandon Maxwell Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Gregory Harris/Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell
Brandon Maxwell Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Gregory Harris/Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell
Brandon Maxwell Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Gregory Harris/Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell
Et Ochs Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Et Ochs
Et Ochs Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Et Ochs
Tanya Taylor Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Diesel Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Diesel
Diesel Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Diesel
Fringe Benefits
3.1 Phillip Lim Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
3.1 Phillip Lim Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
LaPointe Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Hugh Lippe/Courtesy of LaPointe
LaPointe Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Hugh Lippe/Courtesy of LaPointe
Roberto Cavalli Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli
Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Nagi Saka/Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Oscar de la Renta
Hervé Leger Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Hervé Leger
In the Trenches
Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Brianna Capozzi/Courtesy of Carolina Herrera
LaPointe Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Hugh Lippe/Courtesy of LaPointe
Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Nagi Saka/Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
Lafayette 148 Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Sarah Blais/Courtesy of Lafayette 148
Erdem Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Nadine Ijewere/Courtesy of Erdem
Givenchy Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Givenchy
Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Victoria Beckham Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Stella McCartney Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Max Mara Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Max Mara
Black Lace
Batsheva Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Etro Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Etro Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Stella McCartney Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Prim-and-Proper Collars
Etro Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
LaPointe Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Hugh Lippe/Courtesy of LaPointe
Roberto Cavalli Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli
Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Imaxtree
Erdem Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Nadine Ijewere/Courtesy of Erdem
Erdem Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Nadine Ijewere/Courtesy of Erdem
Erdem Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Nadine Ijewere/Courtesy of Erdem
Christian Siriano Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Shane LaVancher/Courtesy of Christian Siriano
Christian Siriano Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Shane LaVancher/Courtesy of Christian Siriano
Christian Siriano Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Shane LaVancher/Courtesy of Christian Siriano
Sultry Knits
Givenchy Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Courtesy of Givenchy
Proenza Schouler Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Nagi Saka/Courtesy of Proenza Schouler
LaPointe Pre-Fall 2023. Photo: Hugh Lippe/Courtesy of LaPointe
Chanel’s latest Métiers d’art show represented a monumental first for the luxury fashion house: its runway debut in Africa.
The show itself happened on Tuesday, Dec. 6, at the former Palace of Justice in Dakar, and featured performances from Obree Daman, dancers from the École des Sables, choreographer Dimitri Chamblas and CKay. (Though technically unaffiliated with the official schedule, it took place just two days after Dakar Fashion Week.) On Dec. 8, Chanel debuted the collection via a film.
“The fashion show was born of the desire to immerse oneself in the creative effervescence of an international artistic capital, influential in all the fields that are dear to the house, such as fashion, cinema, dance, literature, contemporary art and music,” an invitation from Chanel to view the film online read.
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Métiers d’art highlights and celebrates the work of Chanel’s 11 maisons d’art, which are housed at the le19M facility outside of Paris and are responsible for the fine craftsmanship you might see across its products, from embroidery to crochet to feathers to metalwork. As such, these are some of the most technically intensive and impressive collections the house puts out — rich in detail and texture.
The 2023 collection by Virginie Viard draws heavily from the ’70s, specifically the exuberant spirit and rhythm of the era and its fashion: “an abundance of plant motifs, lines and geometric shapes, a profusion of warm colors, sequins and sparkling pendants, alongside the subtlety of lace,” as the show notes read, across easy tailoring, flared trousers, oversized jackets and platforms.
Ahead of the show, Chanel said in a statement that the Dakar event would be “more than just a show” — rather, “part of a three-day cultural program accompanied by concrete action in terms of creative dialogue, sustainable development and the transmission of savoir-faire.” The brand worked with the Montfermeil and Dakar Kourtrajmé schools on documentary films that followed the making of the collection and its preparation for the event.
See every single look from the Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 collection in the gallery below.
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel
Chanel Métiers d’art 2023 in Dakar, Senegal. Photo: Courtesy of Chanel