Savory grows best in rich, well-drained soil amended with organic matter, and requires a full sun location. The plant makes an attractive, fragrant edging for garden beds.
It can tolerate both dry or moist soils, but not soaking wet conditions, and is also drought tolerant.
Fertilizer usually isn’t required if the soil has been enriched with well-rotted compost or manure.
If left in the garden, savory will reseed itself, but this isn’t the most reliable method of propagation – it’s best to start seeds in a controlled environment.
Summer savory is one of the most trouble-free herbs you can grow, its aromatic oils naturally repel many common garden pests, and it has no serious disease problems.
The main issue to watch for is root rot caused by waterlogged soil, which will show up as wilting and yellowing leaves – simply ensure good drainage and avoid overwatering.
Where to Buy
Inexplicably, this tasty herb can be difficult to find in both grocery stores and garden centers.
Look for nurseries that carry a good selection of herbs to find seedlings, or pick up some seeds and start your own.
Seeds are available in garden centers in early spring, or you can shop online.
Begin to harvest leaves as soon as the young plants are five to six inches tall. Pinch the stems about halfway down, just above a leaf node, and use the trimmed leaves for the kitchen.
Photo by Lorna Kring.
Pinching in this way also encourages new branches to form, and prevents leggy plants.
Leaves can be harvested throughout the summer, but the flavor is sweeter and more intense before flowering begins.
Pick leaves in the afternoon when the essential oils are strongest.
Flavor is best in fresh leaves, but they can also be dried and frozen. Or, you can always grow some of the winter variety for year-round supply of evergreen leaves.
Or, you can freeze fresh leaves in a zip-top bag, rolling the bag from the bottom up to squeeze out excess air before sealing.
We’ve added ginger, Zingiber officinale, to our adaptation of Mr. Buhner’s recipe because several of its robust antiviral phytochemicals weaken rhinoviruses, one of the most common causes of colds.
Other compounds like gingerol and shogaol, can help to relieve symptoms such as body aches, fever, coughs, and sore throats, and ginger is also known to effectively reduce nausea and stomach upset.
Plus, we like the zippy taste!
Ginger can be grown at home as a perennial in USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 12 or as an annual in cooler regions.
Like all citrus fruits, lemons, Citrus limon, are naturally high in vitamin C, a powerful antioxidant.
Foods high in vitamin C may help to strengthen the immune system to protect against the viruses that cause cold and flu, and are thought to help reduce the duration of cold symptoms.
Along with its healing properties, lemon juice adds a lovely, piquant flavor to herbal tea that can help to ease a sore throat.
Ever thought about growing your own lemon tree, but don’t have the room? A dwarf tree could be the answer!
Sweet honey is wonderfully soothing, and rounds out the flavor of the other ingredients.
It also has antibacterial and antiviral effects, and is known to reduce the pain of sore throats and the intensity of coughs.
When possible, use a local wildflower source of raw honey to ensure pollen has been collected from flowers free of commercial chemicals.
Or better yet, harvest some from your own hives!
Heat-Inducing Cayenne Pepper
Cayenne pepper, Capsicum annuum, is known as a thermogenic spice with analgesic properties.
That is, it stimulates circulation, increases blood flow to the skin, and has a diaphoretic effect that induces perspiration – all of which help to reduce fever, relieve congestion, and reduce achiness.
In addition, cayenne performs catalytic actions that enhance the efficacy of other herbs.
So be sure to include some in your tea when you’re suffering from a fever, or head and chest congestion from a cold.
Another low-growing variety that you might enjoy is A. ageratifolia, which has white flowers, silvery-green foliage, and a maximum height of about nine inches.
7. Moonshine
A. millefolium ‘Moonshine’ sports beautiful bright yellow flowers with silvery-green foliage, and grows to a mature height of 18 to to 24 inches tall.
‘Little Moonshine’ is a recent variation of the original ‘Moonshine’ variety, a hybrid of A. clypeolata x A. taygetea.
A. millefolium ‘New Vintage Rose’ is a compact, mounding plant with medium-sized non-fading vibrant deep pink to red flower heads.
Leaves are green, and stems reach 12 to 15 inches in height at maturity.
The intense color of this type is best as a stand-alone specimen in gardens and containers. A striking violet ‘New Vintage’ cultivar is also available at some nurseries.
9. Paprika
A. millefolium ‘Paprika’ is a Galaxy series hybrid that has green leaves and dusty brick red flowers that measure a medium-sized two to three inches across.
Reaching a mature height of twelve to 30 inches, it’s perfect for bouquets or to save as a dried flower.
A variety of package sizes – from 400 milligrams up through a whopping one-pound sack – are available from Eden Brothers.
11. Strawberry Seduction
From the Seduction series comes A. millefolium ‘Strawberry Seduction,’ with medium-sized flowers that resemble red, ripe strawberries, and fade to straw yellow in late summer.
Characteristic of this series, its green-leafed stems grow in compact mounds that reach 18 inches to two feet in height at maturity.
This cultivar tolerates heat and humidity exceptionally well. Plant en masse, or in a container on its own for a focal specimen.
Some people may be allergic to it via pollen inhalation or skin contact. In addition, the ASPCA warns that yarrow is toxic to cats, dogs, and horses.
12. Summer Berries
A. millefolium Summer Berries is a mix of Galaxy hybrids that offers multi-colored medium-sized blossoms in an array of light hues, including pastel shades of mauve, orange-red, pink, purple, rose, and salmon.
These top green-leafed stems with a mature height of 18 inches to two feet tall.
This is a compact, mounding variety that does well as a filler in mixed patio containers. Known for its excellent tolerance of warmth and humidity, its colors may fade during heatwaves.
Once I planted rugged Achillea varieties, I was able to create a focal point that said, “Welcome! A gardener really does live here!”
So, whether you’re already a fan, or have just discovered it today, you’re bound to enjoy good value and a pleasant view when you introduce one or more of our 13 varieties to your outdoor living space.
Arnica is a genus that includes around 40 species – 27 of which are found in the mountains of the northwestern US and Canada.
The well-known species, A. montana, isa native of northern and central Europe, while other species are native to North America and Siberia.
Arnica has long been known for its medicinal qualities – specifically in relieving inflammation and pain, as well as helping to heal bruises, sprains, and wounds, and acting as an antiseptic.
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Other species are also known for their healing properties, including the North American native A. chamissonis.
The climate crisis, changes in land use, and unsustainable harvesting of wild arnica has put some species at risk – including the commonly garden-grown species A. chamissonis – all the more reason to make a home for this herb in your garden!
In this guide, you’ll find everything you need to know about growing arnica.
Let’s begin by digging a little deeper into the botany and background of this significant plant.
What Is Arnica?
Arnica is part of the Asteraceae family, also known as the sunflower or daisy family.
A very winter-hardy perennial found in Zones 2 to 9, its natural habitat is composed of acidic, rocky soils in alpine regions, woodlands, and high pastures.
These plants grow to about one to two feet tall, and have light green oval-shaped leaves. Their foliage and stems tend to be hairy.
The flowers are bright orange-yellow, daisy-like, and one to three inches wide. The flowers bloom continuously throughout summer from May to August, and even into early fall in some locations.
The fragrant blooms attract pollinators including a number of species of bees, butterflies, moths, and flies.
Many species have underground rhizomes, which enable them to quickly spread and fill in the surrounding spaces.
Cultivation and History
Arnica has some fun common names – leopard’s bane, wolf’s bane, mountain snuff, and mountain tobacco. The latter is a reference to the historical use of the leaves as a tobacco substitute.
This group of perennials has a long history of medicinal use dating back to the 16th century. Today, arnica is used in tinctures, salves, and creams.
However, it’s important to note that arnica extracts should not be applied to broken skin. And while it is helpful for many people, some individuals may experience topical dermatitis.
Also, be aware that this herb should only be used externally and should not be ingested as it can be potentially toxic.
Today, Romania produces most of the world’s wild-harvested arnica, and Germany is the largest importer.
Arnica Propagation
Once you have a mature arnica plant, dividing it is a simple way to produce more plants.
Starting plants from seed is possible too, it just takes a little more time. I will cover both propagation methods so you can choose what will work best for you.
From Seed
Seeds don’t remain viable for a long time, so using fresh seed is a good idea.
Stratify the seeds by placing them in the refrigerator in a plastic baggie filled with peat moss for at least two weeks and up to 12 weeks.
If you want to start seeds indoors, prepare a seed tray with moist potting mix. These seeds require light to germinate, so sow them on the surface or just barely covered with potting soil.
Set the seed tray in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.
Germination is slow – seeds will germinate in three to four weeks. Wait until the seedlings are three to four inches tall and the roots are well-developed to transplant them into the garden.
You can also sow seeds outdoors in early fall and allow the winter months to take care of the cold-stratification process. Alternatively, sow stratified seed in spring after all danger of frost has passed.
From Divisions
Arnica is easily multiplied by dividing a mature plant in early spring or late fall after its second or third year of growth.
To do this, water your plant well one or two days before.
Prepare the place where the new divisions will go by digging a hole a little wider than required for the roots and deep enough for the crown to be flush with the surface of the soil.
Cut the stems and foliage so they’re six inches from the ground.
Dig around all sides of the plant as well as underneath. Lift the clump and shake off any loose soil.
Make sure your division includes a section of rhizome and a few stems with leaves. Take a look at the clump of rhizomes and if any are damaged by insects or disease, cut those off.
Plant your new division by keeping the rhizome just visible above the soil level. Water in well.
How to Grow Arnica
In the wild, arnica grows in part shade to full sun, but for the best flowering, aim for a full sun location.
This herb thrives in loamy or sandy soil, with a pH of 5.5 to 7.5.
You will need to keep the soil slightly moist – these plants don’t tolerate drought. Aim for a happy medium – moist soil that’s not waterlogged and not bone dry. It should feel like a well-wrung-out sponge at all times.
If you live in a windy area, you may need to stake your plants so they don’t fall over.
Give your plants a small amount of fertilizer with a low nitrogen concentration annually in spring.
Growing Tips
Grow in full sun.
Provide loamy or sandy soil with a pH of 5.5 to 7.5.
Maintain even moisture.
Maintenance
Once it is well-established, arnica will not need much care, though if you don’t want it spreading to the rest of your garden, you’ll need to cut it back.
The roots have a tendency to spread so make sure to plant it somewhere where this isn’t a problem. Despite this tendency, arnica does not compete well with weeds, so make sure to keep them in check around the growing area.
Divide the plants during the spring or fall every few years to maintain the plant’s vigor and keep it looking great.
Come fall, you can cut back the dead or dying foliage to keep the garden looking tidy, but this isn’t essential.
Arnica Species and Cultivars to Select
You may have to look around a bit for arnica seeds, but specialty medicinal or herbal seed suppliers will likely carry them.
A. montana‘Arbo’ is the only commercially recognized cultivar, and it can be found from specialty seed suppliers. It was developed in the 1980s in Germany.
A. chamissonis, the North American native, is another popular species that is said to be easier to grow in the US than its European cousin.
Although arnica is not affected by many pests or diseases, it is more susceptible under conditions of high humidity and waterlogged soil conditions.
Here’s what to watch out for when growing this perennial:
Pests
There aren’t many pests that will go after your plants – but snails are one to look out for.
Snails
Arnica is a snail favorite – and they can do some serious damage to your plants by munching on the leaves, and leaving irregular, smooth-edged holes behind.
A sure sign of snails as the culprit is the shiny mucous trail left on leaves.
If snails do become a problem, there are various methods of control available to you.
Picking snails by hand can be quite effective – albeit time-consuming. Draw the snails into the open by watering your plants and the surrounding area in the late afternoon.
When it’s dark, use a flashlight to find them – squeamish pickers are advised to wear gloves!
Check for snails daily, and be thorough – they’ll likely be hiding in the arnica plants! When you start to notice fewer snails, weekly hand-picking should be enough to manage them.
Another method is to trap and drown snails in a liquid. Beer is a popular choice, but sugar water with yeast added also works.
To trap snails this way, place the liquid in a bowl that they can’t crawl out of – a few inches of liquid should do. Bury the container so the top is level with the soil.
These traps only work within a few feet radius so you may need a few traps if your arnica patch is large. Empty and refill your trap every few days.
If your plants are in a planting bed, you may want to try a barrier made of copper. The slime that snails produce reacts with the copper, disrupting their nervous systems with a kind of electric shock.
To build a copper barrier, you can easily either wrap copper foil or tape around your planting box. This will work until the copper becomes tarnished. Clean it with vinegar and it should work again.
A longer-term solution is to build a vertical copper screen. It doesn’t need to be tall – one inch above the soil and one or two inches buried beneath the soil is enough to prevent them from getting in.
Chemical controls can be used alongside the cultural controls described above. Iron phosphate baits are a safer option for use around kids and animals.
One disease to watch out for when growing arnica is crown rot. Keep reading to find out how to approach this problem if it strikes.
Crown Rot
Crown rot is caused by soilborne pathogens. Unfortunately, it usually results in needing to remove the diseased plant from the garden.
The initial symptom you will notice is wilting. The leaves may also turn yellow and eventually die.
Some parts of the rhizome that survive the disease may eventually regrow, but will likely continue to show some signs of infection.
With crown rot, prevention is your best option. Avoid overwatering, and plant in well-draining soil, amending if necessary at planting time.
If your garden soil doesn’t drain well, then consider growing your arnica in raised beds.
Harvesting
If your arnica plant is healthy, it may provide you with a small harvest in its first season. However, it will take two or three years before you see a substantial harvest.
In the eastern United States and Canada, arnica begins flowering in late June and continues all summer long. In the western US and Canada, it may even continue flowering into early fall.
Arnica flowers are easily harvested by hand. Simply pull each flower head from the stem – I love the satisfying pop! sound it makes.
Harvest the flowers when they’re fully opened. You may want to wear gloves because the stems are scratchy. The best time of day to pick is a sunny morning after any dew has evaporated.
This herb has a staggered blooming period which means you’ll need to harvest the flowers continually, every three or four days during peak blooming.
Best Uses for Arnica
Arnica can be used in creams and other topical applications.
Remember that no part of the plant should be ingested – it should only be used externally, with the exception of homeopathic medicines which come in extremely diluted doses.
You can preserve the herb by drying the flowers. To do this, place blossoms in a single layer on a drying rack or paper-lined tray in a warm location with temperatures of at least 70°F, out of direct sunlight and with good airflow.
If you’re using an electric dehydrator, the temperature should remain around 100°F and no more than 113 °F (45°C) to maintain the active components.
Once they are dry, the blossoms will look puffy and as if they’ve gone to seed – this is totally normal!
Another way to use the flowers is to make a tincture. Start by filling a glass bottle with a tight-fitting lid about one-third full of blossoms. Next, add rubbing alcohol to the jar until the flowers are covered, and close the lid.
Keep the tincture on a windowsill for a minimum of four weeks to infuse. Strain, discard the flowers, and store the tincture in a glass jar in a cool, dark location.
Use it sparingly to soothe aching muscles.
Quick Reference Growing Guide
Plant Type:
Herbaceous perennial
Growth Rate:
Fast
Native To:
Central Europe, North America, Siberia
Water Needs:
Moderate
Hardiness (USDA Zone):
2-9
Tolerance:
Poor soil, shade
Season:
Spring, summer, fall
Maintenance:
Low
Exposure:
Full sun
Soil Type:
Loamy, sandy
Time to Maturity:
1-3 years
Soil pH:
5.5-7.5
Spacing:
6 inches
Soil Drainage:
Well-draining
Planting Depth:
1/4 inch (seeds), depth of root ball (transplanting)
Attracts:
Bees, butterflies, flies, moths
Height:
1-2 feet
Companion Planting:
Rhodiola, yarrow
Spread:
1.5-3 feet
Family:
Asteraceae
Growth Rate:
Moderate
Genus:
Arnica
Common Pests and Diseases:
Snails; crown rot
Species:
Angustifolia, chamissonis, cordifolia, montana
Nature’s Remedy
A beautiful flower with a sunny disposition, arnica doubles as a healing agent for your medicine cabinet.
Growing arnica in your garden provides food and habitat for pollinators and helps preserve some of the endangered species. Try growing some in your garden to enjoy its many benefits!
Do you have any useful tips about growing arnica? Let us know in the comments below!
Harvesting wild local produce in Brooklyn’s Prospect Park may not seem like the best idea. And yet, on a foraging tour of the lively public park last month, a straw-hatted forager named “Wildman” Steve Brill and his teenage daughter, Violet, led roughly 40 of us amateurs into the grassy areas beyond the park’s paved footpaths for a four-hour tromp. Among plastic wrappers and bottle caps we found edible roots, fragrant herbs, and sturdy greens, all ripe for experimentation in the adventurous cook’s kitchen.
At least in theory. There was food here, for sure, but hardly of the practical variety. We recovered fallen pods from the Kentucky coffeetree, whose seeds can be used to brew a caffeine-free alternative to a morning cup. That is, if one is willing to harvest enough of them, wash them of green toxic goo, and roast them for hours—though even then, it won’t really be coffee. I stuffed a few pods in a canvas bag alongside sassafras root, once used to make root beer the old-fashioned way, and a handful of lettuce-flavored violet leaves that could, in the right quantities, constitute a small salad. Two weeks later, I’m still wondering what, if anything, I’ll actually make with these odd new ingredients.
What I didn’t anticipate were all the medicinal plants. Just a few minutes into the tour, we came across enough wild analgesics and anti-inflammatories to insure a casual hike. Here among the cigarette butts was broadleaf plantain, an easy-to-miss herb (unrelated to the bananalike fruit) known for calming mosquito bites. Over near the urinating puppy was jewelweed, which soothes poison-ivy and stinging-nettle rashes. Twigs snapped from a black birch tree exuded wintergreen oil, also known as methyl salicylate, a relative of aspirin that powers pain-killing ointments such as Bengay and Icy Hot.
Interest in foraging for food has taken off in recent years, owing in part to the gourmet-ification of eating locally and in part to its popularity on social media, where influencers make chips out of stinging nettles and add fir needles to granitas. Foraged ramps and morel mushrooms have become so well known that they now appear on restaurant menus and in high-end grocery stores. But the foraging boom has largely left behind what has historically been a big draw of scrounging for plants—finding treatments for minor ailments. To be clear, medicinal plants aren’t likely to save the casual forager’s life, and they lack the robust clinical data that back up pharmaceuticals. But even some scientists believe they can be handy in a pinch. In a way, being able to find a jewelweed stem is more useful than identifying a handful of leaves that can substitute for lettuce.
That has definitely been the case for Marla Emery, a scientific adviser to the Norwegian Institute for Natural Research and a former research geographer for the U.S. Forest Service who studies community foraging. Several years ago, when huge, oozing blisters formed on her legs after a run-in with poison ivy on a hunting trip, Emery visited an herbalist in Scotland who applied lobelia, an herb with pale-violet flowers, and slippery elm, a tree with mucilaginous properties, to her calf. Soon, she felt a tingling sensation—“as if someone had poured seltzer over the area”—and within an hour the blisters had healed, Emery told me.
Both plants, traditionally used to treat skin conditions, “are supportive of health and have medicinal value,” she said, and they’re especially useful because “you’re highly unlikely to poison yourself” with them. Such anecdotes illustrating the profound utility of medicinal plants are common among botanist types. “If you get a cut and put [broadleaf] plantain on it, you can see it close up,” Alex McAlvay, an ethnobotanist at the New York Botanical Garden, told me. At least for some species, he said, “the proof is in the pudding.”
Though foraging has long been a medicinal practice, and so many modern drugs are derived from plants, in the West, medicinal flora has largely been relegated to “traditional” or “folk remedy” status. Still, their use lives on in many communities, including immigrant groups that “come with medicinal-plant uses from their homelands and seek to continue them,” Emery said. People in Chinese, Russian, and certain Latin communities in the U.S. commonly forage dandelion, a weed with diuretic properties, to support kidney and urinary-tract health, she added.
Along the concrete footpaths of Prospect Park, the Brills pointed out stands of burdock; its roots, in addition to being a tasty potato dupe, are used in some cultures to detoxify the body. Pineapple weed, found in baseball diamonds and sidewalk cracks, can calm an upset stomach, Steve told me later. Scientific data for such claims are scant, much like they are for other foraged plants, and using the plants for health inevitably raises questions about scientific credibility. Many medicinal plants that a casual forager will encounter in the wild will not have been studied through rigorous clinical trials in the same way that any prescription drug has been. Whether people ultimately embrace foraging for medicinal plants depends on how they believe “we make evidence and truth,” McAlvay said. “A lot of people are like, ‘If there’s no clinical research, it’s not legit.’ Other people are like, ‘My grandma did it; it’s legit.’” Nothing beats clinical research, though clearly some plants share valuable properties with certain drugs. Lamb’s quarters, a dupe for spinach, is so packed with vitamin C that it was traditionally used to prevent scurvy; stinging nettle, traditionally used for urination issues, may have similar effects as finasteride, a prostate medication.
Naturally, the experts I spoke with unanimously recommended using foraged medicinal plants only for minor ailments. Just as foraging for food comes with some risks—what looks like a delicious mushroom can make you sick—the same is true of medicinal foraging. Take established, reputable classes and use books and apps to correctly identify plants, many of which have dangerous look-alikes; the edible angelica plant, for example, is easily confused with poisonous water hemlock, of Socrates-killing notoriety. Learning about dosage is important too. A benign plant can become poisonous if too large a dose is used, warned Emery. When working with medicinal plants, she said, “you’ve got to know what you’re doing, and that doesn’t lend itself to the casual TikTok post.” Beginner foragers should stick to “gentle but definitely powerful, easy-to-identify herbs,” such as dandelion and violet, said McAlvay.
As the Brills instructed, when I got home I submerged a foraged jewelweed stem in witch hazel to make a soothing skin tincture. Days later, when I dabbed some onto a patch of sunburn on my arm, I felt, or maybe imagined, a wave of relief. Whatever the case, my delight was real. When I had asked both tour-goers and experts why foraged medical plants mattered in a world where drugs that accomplish the same things could be easily bought at a pharmacy, some said it was “empowering” or “satisfying,” but the description that resonated with me most came from McAlvay, who called it “magic”: the power to wield nature, in nature, in order to heal.
When I got home from the tour and opened my bag of foraged goods, I found a black birch twig, still redolent of wintergreen. Coincidentally, that is the one smell I have craved throughout 38 weeks (and counting) of pregnancy, but moms-to-be are advised to avoid the medicinal ointments containing the oil. I sniffed the twig deeply, again and again, recalling that it might become useful in the months to come. When teething infants are given black birch twigs to chew, the gently analgesic qualities of the low-dose wintergreen oil helps soothe their pain, Brill had said. All of a sudden, their crying stops. What’s more magical than that?