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  • One Fine Show: ‘Marie Antoinette Style’ at the Victoria & Albert Museum

    This exhibition offers a glimpse into the life of Madame Déficit through the lens of how she chose to look. Peter Kelleher, courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum, London

    Welcome to One Fine Show, where Observer highlights a recently opened exhibition at a museum not in New York City, a place we know and love that already receives plenty of attention.

    I was in Paris during the Louvre heist, and though my alibi is firm, I never would have predicted the extent to which the robbery would capture the imagination of New Yorkers. The robbery inspired countless Halloween costumes and signage at last month’s marathon. I think people like to imagine an Ernst Blofeld-type figure, awaiting delivery of the gem so that he can admire them in a secret vault or put them on his cat or something. It’s since become clear that this was never about anything more than the skyrocketing price of gold. Still, you can’t blame people for craving a villain who puts style above all else.

    Marie Antoinette was certainly one of those, and whether you love her or love to hate her, the recently opened exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum, “Marie Antoinette Style,” is a must-see. It’s a fashion exhibition—not a historical show with a vast number of objects actually owned by her—but it recreates her world well. A facsimile of a necklace from the “affair of the diamond necklace,” for example, sits near other glittering jewelry that did belong to her.

    It’s a glimpse into her life through the lens of how she chose to look. Her shoes were so delicate, you can tell she didn’t do much walking. She had so many dominoes that you find yourself wondering how there could possibly be a need for so many. My favorite objects in the exhibition were the gilded satin gardening tools from Petit Trianon, her make-believe Disney village at Versailles.

    This is one of those “One Fine Shows” I had the pleasure of seeing in person, and I’m glad I did because there’s no way to convey the innovative exhibition design from a checklist. They don’t shy away from anything, which is first hinted at by a series of plastic busts that invite you to smell Marie Antoinette’s world through a series of holes at the base of the neck. The perfumes that flowed through her court were as bespoke and pleasing as the rest of her existence, but then the last one in the row is intensely foul. Is the machine broken? No, it’s simulating an 18th-century dungeon. This was near a room of pornographic cartoons about her from the time when it all started to go wrong, and it really snuck up on me. Next comes a red room and the last thing she ever wore: a thin prison smock.

    So as not to end on a down note, the exhibition finishes with a host of haute couture inspired by her, from Manolo Blahnik, Vivienne Westwood and Christian Dior, with costumes by Sofia Coppola from Marie Antoinette. One risks a tummy ache with all that candy, but it does make you think about the power of a cohesive look. Our wealthiest today pride themselves on how they dress, but so many of them look like absolute shit. Marie Antoinette wasn’t much more villainous than her aristocratic contemporaries and managed to build a vibe that endured across the centuries. It’s hard to imagine many Instagram feeds ending up at the V&A.

    More exhibition reviews

    One Fine Show: ‘Marie Antoinette Style’ at the Victoria & Albert Museum

    Dan Duray

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  • When Paris Hilton Partied Like Marie Antoinette

    But actually, it didn’t. Months later, in May, Hilton hosted a final bash at London’s iconic Stork Rooms, arriving in what became one of the most defining looks of the early 2000s: a backless Julien McDonald chain-mail mini dress and rhinestone choker. This was the night that produced the now-legendary Paris Hilton glitterati shot—the one that would live on in endless best party dresses lists.

    Hilton was no longer on the club scene: She was the main event. That’s hot.

    In her memoir, Hilton herself calls her party tour “possibly the greatest twenty-first birthday celebration since Marie Antoinette.” She didn’t know it then, but in just a few years—like Marie Antoinette before her—Hilton, too, would go from “It girl” to scapegoat.

    Even as a frightened, 14-year-old child bride shipped off from Austria to marry a stranger, Marie Antoinette always had that je ne sais quoi. Though she came from enemy turf, the French court was instantly charmed by her beauty, style, and grace. Beyond Versailles, the public also adored her at first, seeing its future queen as a symbol of renewal, even rebirth, during the messy final years of the reign of Louis XV, best known for his (many) sex scandals, corrupt mistresses, and humiliating military defeats. In her book Marie Antoinette: The Journey—which served as the basis for Sofia Coppola’s 2006 film, Marie Antoinette, starring Kirsten Dunst—Antonia Fraser wrote that children “offered her baskets of flowers, and the daughters of the bourgeoisie, in their best clothes, strewed further flowers in her path.”

    As a young dauphine (wife to the heir apparent), nearly every aspect of Marie Antoinette’s palace life was informed by ceremony and performed for an audience. She ate, dressed, prayed, bathed, and later even gave birth in front of a crowd. A memorable scene in Coppola’s Marie Antoinette begins just after the title character has been roused awake by a swarm of ladies-in-waiting. Dunst shivers half-naked, desperate to get dressed, as one lady after another barges in, each ranking higher than the last entitled to present the queen’s garment—grinding the already painstaking Cérémonie du Lever (or rising ceremony) to a halt, all in the name of etiquette. The scene ends with Dunst muttering, “This is ridiculous.” In daily life, too, there were rules for everything—who could stand near the dauphine; who could speak, sit, or even breathe in her presence. Versailles was a cage, and Marie Antoinette was trapped inside.

    Serena Turner

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  • Paris Olympics 2024 Opening Ceremony Serves Lady Gaga, Celine Dion, and a Drag Last Supper

    Paris Olympics 2024 Opening Ceremony Serves Lady Gaga, Celine Dion, and a Drag Last Supper

    To prepare for the performance, “I studied French choreography that put a modern twist on a French classic,” Gaga wrote. “I rehearsed tirelessly to study a joyful French dance, brushing up on some old skills—I bet you didn’t know I used to dance at a ’60s French party on the Lower East Side when I was first starting out! I hope you love this performance as much as I do. And to everyone in France, thank you so much for welcoming me to your country to sing in honor of you—it’s a gift I’ll never forget!”

    What followed was a spectacle that might have been better in person than on TV, if you agree with Deadline‘s assessment. Nakamura, singing her hit song “Djadja,” marched from the famous French school, the Académie Française. In a waterborne performance, scenes from Western history, including (to the dismay of some on the Right) an apparent drag reimagining of the Last Supper, were acted out. A beheaded Marie Antoinette sang along to the French Revolution-era song “Ah! Ça Ira.”

    Oh, and athletes from the participating countries trooped in via boat, after a ceremonial lighting of the Games’ torch by judo champ Teddy Riner and track star Marie-José Pérec.

    Marie-Jose Perec and Teddy Riner light the Olympic flame during the opening ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Picture date: Friday July 26, 2024.

    Jan Woitas – PA Images/Getty Images

    Image may contain Construction Construction Crane City Metropolis Urban Boat Transportation Vehicle Flag and Water

    Athletes from the US delegation sail along the river Seine near Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris during the opening ceremony of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games on July 26, 2024.

    JACK GUEZ/Getty Images

    Eve Batey

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  • Quel Choc: Napoleon Falls Short

    Quel Choc: Napoleon Falls Short

    Of all the numerous and controversial French political figures, it is Napoleon Bonaparte who remains foremost in the minds of the French and non-French alike. A(Bona)part(e) from Marie Antoinette, there is no other icon in French history who still continues to fascinate so enduringly on a “pop” level. To that end, the opening to Ridley Scott’s latest historical drama (spoiler alert: The Last Duel was much better), Napoleon, fittingly combines the two polarizing leaders in a scene that overtly foreshadows what will become of Monsieur Bonaparte after his own ascent. 

    And yet, watching Antoinette’s head get decapitated in front of a salivating mob doesn’t appear to be enough of an indelible image to quell Napoleon’s (played impressionistically by Joaquin Phoenix) ever-mounting hubris. Indeed, one might say that the only “message” ever established in Napoleon shines through in this lone (and entirely fabricated) scene foretelling of how powerful people are always taken down by this quintessential deadly sin. Napoleon, of course, assumes he is nothing like the monarchs guillotined as the pièce de résistance of the French Revolution. For a start, he’s a Corsican, which automatically makes him a “mutt brute” in the eyes of “real” French people/nobility. After all, it was only one year after Napoleon’s birth that the Republic of Genoa ceded the island to France, with the latter conquering it the year Napoleon was born, 1769. Which made his commitment to France later on so ironic. For he was fundamentally Italian. After all, not only was Corsica originally “possessed” by Italy before France, but any “blue blood” he had stemmed from being descended from Italian nobility (hence, his true last name: Buonaparte). Ergo, another fallacy of Scott’s film via making the tagline so posturing and oversimplifying as to be: “He came from nothing. He conquered everything.”

    In any event, perhaps this perception of himself as a “royal” is why he saw his “ownership” of France as some kind of “divine right,” in the end. For even despite “supporting the ideals” of the French Revolution that led to the abolition of the monarchy, Napoleon still couldn’t resist the temptation and seduction of “ultimate power.” No more than he could resist the charms of Joséphine de Beauharnais (played here by Vanessa Kirby, though the role was originally intended for Jodie Comer, who also starred in The Last Duel). A woman who many a man (both then and now) would readily call a “slut.” Indeed, that’s the word used by Napoleon in the film after he’s confronted by The Directory over his “desertion” during the Battle of Egypt upon hearing news of Joséphine’s affair with Hippolyte Charles (Jannis Niewöhner). At which time, he gives them a long spiel about how, if anything, they’re the ones who have deserted France, while Napoleon has returned to restore it to its natural state of glory. This includes, naturally, another coup, with Napoleon and his coterie of co-conspirators, Charles-Maurice de Talleyrand (Paul Rhys), Joseph Fouché (John Hodgkinson), Emmanuel Joseph Sieyès (Julian Rhind-Tutt) and Roger Ducos (Benedict Martin), taking over by force when their “whim to rule” isn’t met with unanimous acceptance. So it is that Napoleon repeats the same cycle of oppression that the French revolutionaries vowed never to tolerate again after toppling the monarchy. 

    Turns out, Napoleon seemed to think the word “emperor” instead of “king” somehow made his imposed rule more “palatable,” even going so far as to impudently crown himself at the coronation. An emperor willing to “get his hands dirty,” as it were. Of course, this is just one of the many “flourishes” (picked up from a legend surrounding the coronation) that Scott has added to the tale of Napoleon as told through a “Hollywood lens,” one that has been deemed as patently anti-French and pro-British. Scott did little to quash that assessment when he said, in response to negative French reviews of the film, “The French don’t even like themselves.” However, if Napoleon was any indication to be held up as a benchmark, that’s simply not true at all. And it’s perhaps because they hold themselves and their history in such high regard that this film is particularly offensive, namely as Americans speak in attempts at a French accent. This, in turn, also adding to the overall absurdity of the storytelling (also present in House of Gucci when Americans were speaking with “Italian” accents, Lady Gaga being among the worst of the offenders). 

    Scott stated at the outset of his announcement to direct a film about the emperor, ​​“He came out of nowhere to rule everything—but all the while he was waging a romantic war with his adulterous wife Joséphine. He conquered the world to try to win her love, and when he couldn’t, he conquered it to destroy her, and destroyed himself in the process.” Absolutely none of that comes across in the choppy, disjointedness of Napoleon, which wants so badly to cover such a multitude of themes and grounds that it ends up saying little at all. It is merely a “retelling.” And one with many historical inaccuracies at that (this being another primary complaint about the movie). Not least of which, of course, is the fact that Napoleon wasn’t present at Antoinette’s beheading. 

    Written by David Scarpa (who also penned the script for Scott’s All the Money in the World and his upcoming sequel to Gladiator), the lack of focus on any one aspect of the vast entity that is Napoleon often causes issues in terms of structure and “meaning.” More often than not, it feels as though things are “just happening” without any buildup to it, let alone a sense of cause and effect. 

    Funnily enough, Scott’s first feature film, The Duellists (released in 1977), is centered around the Napoleonic Wars and homes in on two rival French officers named Gabriel Feraud (Harvey Keitel), a devoted Bonapartist, and Armand d’Hubert (Keith Carradine), an aristocrat. Spanning twenty years, the film manages to come in well under two hours and covers far more ground than Napoleon can seem to. For it suffers from the same problem as its eponymous dictator: it’s too ambitious and, ultimately, can’t make its mind up about what it wants to achieve. This is likely a result of the script not being based on any specific source material. Whereas Scott seems to be at his best when he works with a script that’s based on an adapted screenplay. This, it should go without saying, does not apply to the odious House of Gucci. In fact, the latter movie and Napoleon suffer from many of the same issues, including, but not limited to: 1) things “just happen” for no reason, thereby making plot and character development all but nil and 2) Scott has become somewhat notorious for letting other cultures tell stories that don’t belong to them. Because, obviously, if any culture should get to tell the story of Maurizio Gucci and Patrizia Reggiani or Napoleon and Joséphine, it should goddamn well be the Italians and the French, respectively. To that end, the real Napoleon biopic to see is 1927’s Napoléon. Not so coincidentally, the film was slated for another restoration and rerelease this year—as though the French wanted to remind a Brit like Scott that it’s absolutely galling to presume to tell the story of their emperor. 

    As for someone like Marie Antoinette, who has been fixated upon in cinema repeatedly by all manner of nationalities, it was Sofia Coppola (via Kirsten Dunst) who claimed the most memorable ownership over her in recent years. This achieved by fully “pop-ifying” both her personage and the script and soundtrack. Opting to contain the narrative with far more dexterity than Scott is able to with Napoleon. In point of fact, one wonders if this film might not have been better off if Scott and Scarpa had chosen to go full-tilt camp with it (alas, that’s not really something two straight men are capable of, which means casting Peter Dinklage in the lead role would have been out of the question). For there are slight “glimmers” of such campiness in Napoleon’s lecherous exchanges with Joséphine (e.g., Jo opening her legs in front of “Boney” and saying, “If you look down here you’ll see a present, and once you see it you’ll always want it” or Napoleon making animalistic noises at her after she’s just had her hair “set,” finally prompting her to give in to his sexual desires). In truth, the entire movie should have simply had one focus: Napoleon and Joséphine (likely earning it the same straightforward title). That way, there would have been a firmer anchor to the film as opposed to this sense of being “all over the place” (though it is literally that as well, with Scott showing us the far-reaching backdrops of Napoleon’s various famed battles). And, again, with no real “lead up” to anything. Case in point, the sudden decision to include Tsar Alexander’s (Édouard Philipponnat) romantic overtures to Joséphine after her divorce from Napoleon. Overtures that were more likely politically motivated than genuinely romantic.

    But such is to be expected from a film fraught with embellishments. Including the much-praised battle scenes themselves, accused by Foreign Policy’s Franz-Stefan Gady of being nothing more than “a Hollywood mishmash of medieval melees, meaningless cannonades, and World War I-style infantry advances.” Adding, “For all of Scott’s fixation on Napoleon’s battles, he seems curiously disinterested in how the real Napoleon fought them.”

    Nonetheless, to any condemnation of his seemingly flagrant disregard for accuracy, Scott snapped (in an article for The New Yorker), “Get a life.” For some, though, Napoleon/Napoleonic history is their life. While, for others, quality cinema is. On both counts, Napoleon cannot quite deliver. Falling shorter than the man it pays homage to.

    Genna Rivieccio

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  • The Most Historically Inaccurate Movies

    The Most Historically Inaccurate Movies

    Period films give us a glimpse into what life was like during a completely different era of history. Well, sort of. They may give us an idea how people lived, but since they’re movies, we need to leave room for a certain degree of artifice. Movies are designed to either entertain us, or to explore universal themes, or to provide a feast for our senses. They’re not designed to tell us the truth, and nothing but the truth.

    So, that’s why it’s not surprising to learn that some of the most popular period films ever made are full of historical inaccuracies. As with most films based on true events, creative liberties are taken to ensure the narrative flows in an effective, compelling way. But when you add the period element — think ancient civilizations, English royal society, or wars that spanned multiple years — there are even more opportunities for facts to be replaced by fiction. It could be a certain style of clothing that hadn’t been invented yet, or the inclusion of a historical figure who, by all accounts, shouldn’t have been alive during the events of the film.

    In some cases, these changes feel completely warranted. Reality is almost always messier than what’s presented to us on the big screen, and leaving out certain details results in a more satisfying end result. Other times, the inaccuracies are so glaring and obvious, they take us out of the film entirely. Here are ten period movies that relied on audiences’ suspension of disbelief to tell their (mostly) true stories.

    Historical Movies That Are Wildly Inaccurate

    These films are based on real people and events … but just barely. Most of what was up on screen was invented by screenwriters.

    The Sexiest Period Dramas to Stream at Home

    Loved Bridgerton? Here‘s what to watch next.

    Claire Epting

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