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  • A British celebrity chef insulted Mexican bread. Mexico took it personally

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    Don’t mess with my bolillos!

    That was the universal message here after disparaging remarks about Mexican bread surfaced from a British celebrity chef who ridiculed the beloved bolillo: An oval-shaped, white bread roll that is a culinary and cultural staple, a mainstay in tortas (sandwiches), pan con chocolate (bread with chocolate) and other essentials, a go-to comfort food with a spiritual caché.

    Mexicans “don’t really have much of a bread culture,” the chef, Richard Hart, who runs a popular Mexico City bakery, said in a podcast that recently resurfaced online. He labeled Mexican wheat “not good … highly processed, full of additives,” adding: “They make sandwiches on these white, ugly rolls that are pretty cheap and industrially made.”

    That frontal assault on el bolillo came just as many Mexicans are getting ready to stock up on the fluffy loaves for the holidays. Judging by the reaction, Hart might as well have dissed the national soccer team.

    “The bolillo is a sacred food in Mexico, it’s part of our daily life,” said an astounded Carlos López, 32, who was in line at a stand awaiting his daily torta de tamal — a sandwich composed of a cornmeal tamale stuffed inside a bolillo.

    “This is breakfast for millions of Mexicans!” López declared of the bulging cholesterol bomb, typically dripping in hot sauce. “I think this English cook should close his shop and go back home to his country.”

    Defenders of the bolillo ascended the ramparts of the internet to defend their humble fare. Many posted under #ConElBolilloNo.

    “The bolillo is everything: It’s a food, a remedy, it’s homeland,” said one indignant commentator on X.

    A neighborhood bakery in the Colonia Cuauhtemoc neighborhood in Mexico City sells a wide variety of pan dulce.

    (Lisette Poole/For The Times)

    The insult seemed to rankle many because it touched both a current issue — gentrification in Mexico City — and an old sore spot: foreigners citing supposedly elevated European standards to judge Mexico, where Hart now makes his living.

    Another poster voiced the hope that the highbrow Euro-chef had learned his lesson with the bolillo, and would not dare to cast scorn on other favorites like the concha, a ubiquitous seashell-shaped sweet bread featuring a sugary topping.

    “If you’re gonna mess around with the vanilla or chocolate concha, think twice about it,” the user warned.

    The London-born Hart, who honed his sourdough skills during seven years at San Francisco’s acclaimed Tartine Bakery, issued an apology online last week after his comments, which were made months ago, went viral.

    “Since I arrived in Mexico, I have fallen in love with the people of this city,” Hart wrote. “Nonetheless, my words didn’t reflect this respect. In this country I am a guest and I forgot to act accordingly.”

    a worker restocks bread supplies.

    A worker restocks shelves of pan dulce and other kinds of bread at the Ideal bakery in Mexico City.

    (Lisette Poole/For The Times)

    The culinary kerfuffle was unusual for Mexico, which boasts a world-renowned cuisine that includes dozens of varieties of breads and pastries, both savory and sweet. Many are elaborations on European originals, often carrying suggestive names such as: banderilla (banner), bigote (mustache), tortuga (turtle) and colchón (mattress).

    Mexico is especially known for holiday breads such as pan de muerto (for Day of the Dead), often left on the graves of loved ones; and Rosca de Reyes, a round sweet loaf eaten on Jan. 6, Three Kings Day (the Epiphany), traditionally with a figure of the baby Jesus hidden inside.

    “Mexico doesn’t replicate European bread because it doesn’t have to,” Edgar Nuñez, a celebrated Mexican chef who studied in France, wrote on X in response to the bolillo dustup. “Here there is a proper tradition of bakeries, with its own history, identity, technique, and a social connection that many cultures lack.”

    Hart didn’t return messages left at his bakery, the Green Rhino, in the capital’s shabby-chic Roma Norte district.

    Reports that the Green Rhino had been vandalized were untrue, workers at the eatery said. There was no sign of exterior damage Friday afternoon.

    The Green Rhino, which opened in June, employs about 50 people, staffers said. Business seemed slow Friday afternoon. Some would-be customers lingered outside the premises, seemingly wondering whether it was all right to go inside.

    bread in 4 photos

    Clockwise from top right: A concha sweetbread, sold at a food stand in Mexico City’s La Roma district, and various offerings from the Bou bakery.

    (Lisette Poole / For The Times)

    “I think it’s all a misunderstanding,” said Sofía, 28, a regular client who, like others interviewed, declined to give their full names for privacy reasons. “Yes, I think I’ll go back. It’s a nice place.”

    The bolillo brouhaha quickly became part of the raging debate about gentrification in Mexico City.

    Critics have blamed rising rents and the displacement of longtime residents and businesses on a wave of digital nomads and other expatriates from the United States, Canada, Europe and elsewhere. Foreign visitors, mostly young, are seen daily wandering through gentrified neighborhoods gazing at their cellphones, following directions to the latest hip spots hyped on Instagram and TikTok. Many trendy bakeries feature European-style breads and pastries.

    In July, angry Mexican protesters, predominantly young, marched through the trendy Roma neighborhood and adjoining Condesa district denouncing gentrification driven by foreigners. Some vandalized restaurants and cafes, breaking windows and overturning outdoor tables at various businesses, including at a popular Starbucks with a mostly Mexican clientele.

    A worker restocks bread supplies at the Ideal bakery.

    A worker restocks bread supplies at the Ideal bakery.

    (Lisette Poole/For The Times)

    Despite complaints about gentrification, there is a clear upside to foreign — and Mexican — customers drawn to pricey establishments such as the Green Rhino. The bolstered business has helped spur an economic comeback in Roma and Condesa, ground zero for gentrification. Both districts suffered extensive damage in the 2017 earthquake and saw business plummet anew during the COVID-19 pandemic.

    Still, the attack on el bolillo clearly touched a nerve in a capital otherwise in a festive mood. Christmas decorations adorn most storefront bakeries, which stand as community anchors throughout Mexico City.

    “He really said that?” asked Roberto Celorio Díaz, a retiree who was buying bread at his “local,” the Lupita bakery, when informed of Hart’s comments.

    “That’s very upsetting for Mexicans,” he said. “The foreigners come, they live in our city and they criticize our food, our culture. Maybe it’s better they stay in their own countries where, according to them, everything is better.”

    McDonnell is a staff writer and Sánchez Vidal a special correspondent.

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    Patrick J. McDonnell, Cecilia Sánchez Vidal

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  • Mexico’s ‘Batman’: The president’s favorite crime fighter, the cartels’ nemesis

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    No floodlights illuminate the night sky when the citizens of Mexico’s Gotham need a hand. No hot line summons this super-cop from a hidden redoubt.

    But Mexico does indeed have its own “Batman”: Omar García Harfuch, security czar in the government of President Claudia Sheinbaum.

    He acquired the Batman moniker during his days as Mexico City’s crime-busting police chief under then-Mayor Sheinbaum. Like the stalwart Dark Knight, García Harfuch emits the vibe of a vigilant protector who compensates for a lack of superpowers with more cerebral skills — a mix of intelligence, resolve and moxie.

    In his current post (official title: secretary of Security and Citizen Protection), García Harfuch is inevitably dispatched to hot spots from the northern border to the southern hinterlands — sites of assassinations, massacres, gang wars and other headline-grabbing incarnations of Mexican mayhem. The script never varies: He vows to snare the bad guys. Arrests follow.

    Like his boss, Sheinbaum, the security chief disputes President Trump’s assertions that Mexico is “run by” cartels, though he doesn’t deny the widespread sway of organized crime.

    “Yes, there is definitely a presence of criminal groups, but [Mexico] is not controlled by the cartels,” García Harfuch, 43, recently told the Mexican daily El Universal.

    Omar García Harfuch, far left in suit, walks with President Claudia Sheinbaum, center, and other Mexican officials during a ceremony in Mexico City in September to mark the Sept. 19 earthquakes that hit Mexico in 1985 and 2017.

    (Juan Abundis / ObturadorMX via Getty Images)

    His stern, just-the-facts Joe Friday recitals of arrests, seizures, drug lab takedowns and other enforcement actions are signature moments at presidential news briefings. García Harfuch — always decked out in suit and tie — transmits an aura of competence, and his media-savvy advisors have burnished his image as an implacable foe of the cartels.

    Supporters began calling him Batman, in English, when crime rates dropped precipitously in Mexico City during his tenure as police chief. Supporters even circulated online images of a modified Batman action figure, with “Harfuch” emblazoned on the chest.

    While emphasizing intelligence-gathering and investigative diligence, he doesn’t shy from praising shoe-leather police work and citing traditional metrics of success. Since Sheinbaum took office Oct. 1, 2024, he says, authorities have arrested more than 37,000 suspects in “high-impact crimes,” seized more than 300 tons of illicit drugs and dismantled more than 600 drug labs.

    Such statistics were rarely tossed about during the presidency of Andrés Manuel López Obrador, Sheinbaum’s predecessor and mentor. The ex-president favored a much-criticized “hugs not bullets” strategy — curtailing offensive operations against cartels and instead addressing poverty and other socioeconomic factors driving young people to join organized crime. Many Mexicans appear happy with the shift.

    Omar García Harfuch talks on his cellphone

    García Harfuch, at the National Palace in September, was chief of police of Mexico City before becoming secretary of Security and Citizen Protection.

    (Gerardo Vieyra / NurPhoto via Getty Images)

    “Harfuch seems to me a good man who has good intentions, but, unfortunately, crime is so ingrained in Mexican society that it’s hard to get rid of it,” said Gregorio Flores, 57, a shop owner in Mexico City.

    García Harfuch is the probably the most visible figure in the Mexican government apart from the president, and polls show him to be among the most popular — and a possible candidate to succeed Sheinbaum, who clearly trusts him explicitly from their time together in Mexico City government. Even rivals of Sheinbaum acknowledge his effectiveness.

    Taking a pronounced stance against organized crime is hardly without risk in Mexico, where politicians, cops, journalists and anyone else who stands in the way of the mobs may wind up in the gangsters’ cross-hairs. García Harfuch is well aware of the stakes.

    Experts work at a crime scene in Mexico City

    Experts work at the crime scene after García Harfuch was wounded in an assassination attempt in Mexico City on June 26, 2020. Two of his bodyguards and a female bystander were killed.

    (Pedro Pardo / AFP via Getty Images)

    In 2020, while serving as the capital’s police chief, García Harfuch survived three gunshot wounds in a brazen attack as his SUV traveled along Mexico City’s elegant Paseo de la Reforma. Killed in the assault were two police bodyguards and a female street vendor who was a bystander. The commando-style strike utilizing multiple high-caliber armaments stunned one of the capital’s toniest residential districts, something like a mob hit on Rodeo Drive.

    From his hospital bed, García Harfuch — a former federal cop who also has a law degree — blamed the powerful Jalisco New Generation cartel.

    Ongoing threats against García Harfuch are frequently reported in the Mexican press, including chilling scribbled death threats found in May alongside several mangled bodies, presumed cartel victims, dumped outside Acapulco.

    “García Harfuch is the cartels’ enemy No. 1,” said David Saucedo, a security analyst. “He’s become a headache for them. The cartels were accustomed to making deals with [the government]. … But Harfuch gives the impression that he’s not disposed to reach an agreement with organized crime groups. And that’s a problem for the cartels.”

    Security is Mexicans’ major concern, and Garcia Harfuch gives the impression that the good guys are cracking down, even if many are dubious about the steep crime declines Sheinbaum regularly touts.

    Homicides have nose-dived by almost 40% since Sheinbaum took office last year, the government says, though critics call the statistic inflated — it excludes, for instance, the rising numbers of “disappeared” people, presumed crime victims consigned to clandestine graves.

    And some have suggested that Sheinbaum’s save-the-day call-ups of her media-savvy security chief are more performative than substantive, and probably counterproductive.

    “There’s no Batman,” columnist Viri Ríos wrote recently in Mexico’s Milenio newspaper. “The myth of Batman is dangerous, especially for Harfuch. Making him a myth imposes on him the responsibility of pacifying the country. But, as we all know, Omar can’t defeat organized crime by himself.”

    In fact, García Harfuch has relatively few forces under his direct command. Corruption remains rampant among state and municipal police, prosecutors and judges in Mexico, often rendering them unreliable partners. Thus García Harfuch is dependent on other agencies, notably the national guard, a 200,000-strong force under military command.

    Mexico's President Claudia Sheinbaum speaks as Secretary of Security and Civilian Protection Omar García Harfuch looks on

    Sheinbaum speaks at her daily press briefing in November as García Harfuch looks on. He is a fixture at the briefings.

    (Carl de Souza / AFP via Getty Images)

    García Harfuch regularly extols his relationship with the armed forces, despite rumors of resentment against his sweeping powers and his closeness to Sheinbaum. Mexico’s first female president also serves as military commander in chief.

    García Harfuch is said to have the trust of U.S. law enforcement, even though the Trump administration’s ever-escalating demands and threats of unilateral strikes on Mexican territory put him in a tough spot. Only last week, Trump declared that he was “not happy” with narcotics-fighting efforts in Mexico.

    “The Americans have confidence in García Harfuch, but they are always asking for more — more arrests, more extraditions, more decommissions” of drug labs, said Saucedo, the security analyst.

    For security reasons, officials provide few details on García Harfuch’s personal life, beyond saying he is divorced and a father.

    García Harfuch descends from a line of prominent government officials, their careers reflecting, in part, Mexico’s past under a repressive, authoritarian government.

    His grandfather, Gen. Marcelino García Barragán, was a secretary of defense during the infamous 1968 massacre of student protesters in Mexico City’s Tlatelolco district; and his father, Javier García Paniagua, was a politician who held various posts, including chief of a now-disbanded federal police agency assailed for human rights abuses.

    Mexico’s top cop may not wear a cape and mask, but his background does have a touch of show business: His mother, María Sorté, is one of Mexico’s best-known actors, often portraying characters in telenovelas, or soap operas. Few know her real name, María Harfuch Hidalgo, whose paternal surname reflects her Lebanese ancestry.

    “Harfuch strikes me as a good man with fine intentions,” said Carmen Zamora, 46, a restaurant owner in Mexico City. “But he needs more time. One cannot resolve in one year the violence that we have seen for so long in Mexico.”

    Carlos Monjarraz, 34, a capital car salesman, is not convinced.

    “All this Batman stuff is just a joke on Mexicans when everything is the same — the same murders, narco-trafficking, insecurity,” Monjarraz said. “We don’t need a Batman to save us. What we need is for authorities to jail the real criminals — crooked politicians who keep protecting each other.”

    Special correspondent Cecilia Sánchez Vidal contributed to this report.

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    Patrick J. McDonnell

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