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Tag: life-in-parties

  • Mary Boone, Art Scene Queen, Looks Back at Her Life in Parties

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    In 1977, Mary Boone paid about $1,700 a month to rent a gallery space in SoHo to show relatively unknown artists. Within a few years, her eponymous gallery and the artists she championed, including Jean-Michel Basquiat, Julian Schnabel, and David Salle, had ushered in a new creative era. Known as a no-nonsense dealmaker, Boone cultivated difficult geniuses, wooed pedigreed collectors, and accumulated a closetful of Chanel. But in 2018, after four decades in the art world, she was suddenly embroiled in scandal. Boone was convicted of tax fraud, forced to close her two galleries, and served 13 months in prison. She kept a low profile after her release, but that didn’t last long. In 2024, the band Vampire Weekend released a single titled “Mary Boone.” “[Lead singer] Ezra Koenig called me up and said, ‘Tomorrow we’re going to drop your song,’ ” recalls Boone. “It’s flattering.” Now she’s enjoying a comeback. On a recent Tuesday, the 74-year-old was at Lévy Gorvy Dayan, the uptown Manhattan gallery where her first curatorial effort post-prison has been on view since September. “Downtown/Uptown: New York in the Eighties” features work by the artists she helped launch. After prison, she says, “I thought I was never going to do this again!”

    Mary Boone pictured in 1956, at age 5.

    Courtesy of Mary Boone

    Born in Pennsylvania to Egyptian parents, Boone moved to Los Angeles as a child after her father died. In Los Angeles, she says, “it was like every day was Saturday. We lived by the beach; you were always in the sand.” Growing up, she discovered she had a talent for drawing. “Everyone encouraged me to become an artist.”

    Boone with Michael Werner.

    Courtesy of Mary Boone

    Boone married the German art dealer Michael Werner in 1986. Their honeymoon, in Venice, overlapped with a professional commitment: One of Werner’s artists, Sigmar Polke, was included in the city’s Biennale. “It always seemed like the art world and our lives intermixed,” says Boone. Like her, Werner had emerged from a working-class background, and had earned a reputation for nurturing young talent. Though they divorced in the 1990s, the two remain close friends.

    Boone pictured in her SoHo gallery in 1982.

    Michel Delsol/Getty Images

    Boone studied at the Rhode Island School of Design. As a student, she caught the attention of the artist Lynda Benglis, who also lectured at universities. Benglis told her, “You can’t be in Providence—you have to be in New York.” Boone moved to the city in 1970 and hung out in the Max’s Kansas City scene, which was populated with the likes of John Chamberlain, David Bowie, and Patti Smith. Mostly, though, she found herself at the Odeon and the Ocean Club. “You’d go in, and there would be a table with Barbara Kruger, Cindy Sherman, Laurie Simmons, and Sarah Charlesworth. Then there’d be another group with David Salle, Julian Schnabel, and Ross Bleckner. It was just fun.”

    Ileana Sonnabend and Boone.

    Courtesy of Mary Boone

    Boone’s first gallery was at 420 West Broadway, which also housed the influential galleries run by divorced art world giants Leo Castelli and Ileana Sonnabend. “I used to joke that when the elevator was broken, which was a lot of the time, people would come into my gallery instead of going up to see theirs.” Both became important mentors and friends of hers. Here, Sonnabend and Boone celebrate their joint birthday in October 1981. “I was turning 30, and she was not turning 30.”

    Leo Castelli with his then girlfriend, the art writer Laura de Coppet (left), and Boone at art collector Douglas Cramer’s Los Angeles ranch for a party celebrating Boone’s wedding, in 1986.

    Courtesy of Mary Boone

    Castelli joined forces with Boone to usher in the neo-Expressionist movement of the 1980s. “Leo didn’t race to show my artists. I had to persuade him to do a show with me,” says Boone.

    Boone in front of the Berlin Wall in 1989, while on a trip to visit an artist.

    Courtesy of Mary Boone

    Boone met Werner in 1981 at the opening party for Norman Rosenthal’s landmark show “A New Spirit in Painting” at the Royal Academy of Arts in London. Many of Werner’s artists, including Gerhard Richter and Anselm Kiefer, were on display, and Boone wanted to exhibit them in New York. “I was too young of a dealer to show them, but slowly we started working together.”

    In 1987, Boone and Werner had their only child, a son named Max. After giving birth, “I just got a whim to have my hair cut off,” says Boone. “It was a lot of change becoming a parent. I was really lucky—I have a great kid.” Max has worked with both Boone and Werner, and recently struck out on his own as a gallerist.

    Mary Boone and Jean-Michel Basquiat.

    Image and Artwork © 2025 The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. / Licensed by ARS.

    “Jean-Michel found out where Andy Warhol would go to lunch, and he went there and started selling drawings to everybody,” says Boone, who staged a Basquiat show in 1984. “I made it my business to meet him.” At top, Basquiat and Boone are pictured at that exhibition in Boone’s gallery. “He had a thing with his mother. I think I became a substitute for his mother, and Andy became a substitute for his father.” Warhol took the bottom photo in 1985, as Basquiat prepared for an opening. “He didn’t let the packers pack up his paintings. He rolled them up and dragged them.”

    “I always liked artists who did something I had never seen before,” says Boone. She originally turned down the chance to represent Eric Fischl, known as the “bad boy of painting” for his voyeuristic style, but she eventually relented and worked with him for 30 years. The two are seen here at the opening of his show at the Whitney Museum of American Art, in 1986.

    Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images

    Boone attends the 1990 launch party for Bob Colacello’s Andy Warhol biography, Holy Terror. She showed numerous Warhol works throughout her career, and he eagerly embraced her stable of young artists. “I think he really loved being the head figure,” says Boone. Warhol was the first person to show up to Boone’s inaugural Basquiat exhibition, together with “this man who was smaller than he was, and it turned out to be Manolo Blahnik. Andy tried to get him to buy a Basquiat painting, which was, like, $10,000 at the time. Maybe $5,000. Manolo said he was saving up his money to open a shoe store.”

    Boone and Nicole Miller attend a party in 1989 at The Lowell to celebrate Miller’s collaboration with Absolut Vodka.

    Patrick McMullan/Getty Images

    “Nicole Miller and I have been friends since our days at RISD. We moved to New York together.” While Boone rose to the top ranks of the art scene, Miller’s fashion brand established her as a household name in the 1980s. “I’m very loyal, and so is she.”

    Boone with Eric Fischl (center) and Michael Werner at Fischl’s 1985 solo show at Kunsthalle Basel.

    Courtesy of Mary Boone

    When Boone first moved to New York, she worked at Bykert Gallery, which was run by Lynda Benglis’s boyfriend, Klaus Kertess. “At around four or five, all the artists would start coming in, like Richard Serra, Brice Marden, Chuck Close, and Agnes Martin. Hearing these artists talk about art really was educational,” she says. Kertess left the gallery in 1975 to become a writer, and Boone decided to strike out on her own. “For every artist I ended up showing, I went to a thousand studios. Slowly, I put together a group.” Here, she is pictured with Eric Fischl (center) and Werner at Fischl’s 1985 solo show at Kunsthalle Basel.

    Boone attending a Christophe de Menil fashion show at the Palladium, in 1985.

    Patrick McMullan/Getty Images

    Boone’s first brush with the press had come in 1974, when a young Anna Wintour asked to include her in a Harpers & Queen story on stylish young New York women. “I told her, ‘Please don’t write about me, because I don’t want to be talked about in terms of my clothes. I want to open my gallery.’ ” Nonetheless, Boone paid attention to fashion. “It started with Armani. I, and a lot of other dealers, wore the low-key gray.” She developed a taste for Chanel when she found a trove of vintage couture suits in her size at auction. “I bought one or two. Tina Chow bought the rest of them, like, 30. Then Lagerfeld took over Chanel, and I wore that most of the time.”

    Boone and Julian Schnabel in 1980.

    Photo by Bob Kiss

    Julian Schnabel’s first solo show in New York, at Boone’s gallery in 1979, was a breakthrough for both artist and gallerist. Previously, Schnabel had worked as a cook at the trendy Ocean Club restaurant. (David Salle, another of Boone’s artists, also cooked there.) Schnabel’s plate paintings—literally paintings on broken plates affixed to a canvas—marked a break from the minimalism of the 1970s. “It was just something completely different,” Boone says.

    DAVID X PRUTTING/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images

    Schnabel’s defection from Boone’s gallery to Pace, in 1984, was her first major setback. “I was heartbroken,” she says. Here, she poses with Schnabel’s son Vito at his gallery show in 2008. “It shows you life is just a circle of events. Hopefully, the good outweighs the bad.”

    New York magazine and Vox Media, LLC

    A 1982 New York magazine cover on the booming art market named Boone “The New Queen of the Art Scene.” The city had emerged from bankruptcy, and suddenly money was flowing into the art world. The article painted Boone as a new type of gallerist, one always ready to pour a glass of champagne or make 10 phone calls to close a sale. “I kind of blocked it out,” she says. “I became a symbol. But, listen, a lot of young women, like Thelma Golden, came up to me and said, ‘I wanted to go into the arts because of seeing that cover.’ ” She credits Wintour, then working as New York’s fashion editor, for her inclusion.

    Fairchild Archive/Penske Media via Getty Images

    In the 1980s, a magazine asked a selection of gallerists how they celebrated a big sale. Most said with champagne or food. Boone said she bought a new pair of shoes. Her reputation as a shoe lover has followed her ever since. “Someone told me Warhol read that. Then I got my first invitation to lunch at the Factory,” she says. “I do like shoes, because they’re about moving forward. And particularly being a woman in what was still a man’s world, it was like taking steps.”

    Boone with Parker Posey and Posey in the film Basquiat.

    Left: Marion Curtis/Starpix/Shutterstock. Right: Eleventh Street Prod/Miramax/Kobal/Shutterstock

    Parker Posey with Boone, played a fictionalized version of the gallerist in Schnabel’s 1996 film, Basquiat (right). Boone likes to separate herself from the character: “Parker asked me some things, but she pretty much did her own thing.” Even so, Boone is a fan of both the actor (“I wish she could play me in real life”) and the film. “This is Julian’s story about what he thinks of me, Jean-Michel, and himself. It’s a good movie because he’s a painter. A lot of the problem with movies about artists is believability.”

    Courtesy of Lévy Gorvy Dayan, photos by Elisabeth Bernstein

    Initially, Boone and her band of artists were dismissed as a fad. “I never really listened to that,” says Boone. “I just had to keep doing serious shows.” Her 2025 exhibition at Lévy Gorvy Dayan presents the people she worked with as the definitive 1980s American artists.

    Boone with collector Stan Cohen on opening night of her 2025 exhibition.

    Courtesy of Mary Boone

    The exhibition includes a Barbara Kruger silkscreen bearing the phrase: what me worry? “I’ve shown that work three different times, and it’s never looked as good as it does here.”

    Boone with Pharrell Williams and the artist KAWS in 2013.

    Neil Rasmus/BFA/Shutterstock

    The VIPs who have shown up to Boone’s galleries on opening night include Steve Martin, Monica Lewinsky, Diane Sawyer, Bianca Jagger, Katie Couric, and David Bowie, among many more. Here, she poses with Pharrell Williams and the artist KAWS at the opening of a 2013 show she organized. Nonetheless, Boone never chases celebrities on opening night. “There should be a lot of energy focused on the art and the artists.”

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  • Bob Mackie Talks Dressing Cher, Madonna, Miley Cyrus & More

    Bob Mackie Talks Dressing Cher, Madonna, Miley Cyrus & More

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    Bob Mackie was never much for nightlife. “I was in my studio, working away, and I couldn’t have been happier,” he says. But perhaps no designer is more responsible than he is for broadcasting glamour, pizzazz, and pure spectacle into Americans’ living rooms. Born and raised in the suburbs of Los Angeles, Mackie always knew he wanted to be a designer. Encouraged early on by the legendary costumer Edith Head, Mackie worked for a time under the midcentury pioneer Jean Louis before breaking through on his own with the outfits for Mitzi Gaynor’s Las Vegas revue in 1966. He went on to help shape the stage and screen image of a Mount Rushmore of legendary divas: Carol Burnett, Diana Ross, Tina Turner, Whitney Houston, Diahann Carroll, and, perhaps most iconically, Cher.

    In time, his clients wanted to wear his designs in everyday life—and so did their fans. Runway collections and some of the most eye-popping red carpet gowns of all time followed, but Hollywood remained his true love. (He has a Tony, nine Emmys, and three Oscar nominations to prove it.) Mackie’s life story will be told in the documentary Bob Mackie: Naked Illusion, to be released later this year; in the meantime, the designer takes us behind the scenes of his dream factory and the glittering moments that defined his career.

    “I tried out for cheerleading because I knew I wasn’t going to be a football player,” says Mackie (top right). “I thought to myself, Well, it’s the closest thing to show business without being in show business.” Though Mackie remembers those times fondly, he did have one fashion note for his alma mater: “We had the worst school colors. They were maroon and gray. Can you imagine?”

    Mackie, seen here with his elder sister, Patricia, grew up with a supportive family, but they didn’t quite understand his Hollywood dream. So he took matters into his own hands by studying the careers of those who came before him. “I always wanted to go to Chouinard Art Institute,” he says. “Many of the designers in Hollywood had gone to that school back in the 1920s.” Originally enrolled at Pasadena City College, Mackie made it to Chouinard after winning a scholarship.

    In 1961, Mackie left Chouinard after a year and worked as a sketch artist for Edith Head and Jean Louis. He was often at the NBC costume workroom, having outfits made. He was so excited he ended up decorating the workroom’s door with his drawings for Christmas.

    Mackie first encountered Barbra Streisand in 1963, when she guested on The Judy Garland Show while he was working as an assistant costume designer. But their most significant collaboration would come on the set of 1975’s Funny Lady, where this photo was taken. “I stood behind her and I looked,” says Mackie. “She was quite amused by the fact that I was almost doing her facial pose.” She sent him this signed copy afterward.

    Harry Langdon/Getty Images

    “Diana Ross is one of the most gifted and talented and hardest to live with ladies I know,” says Mackie. They first collaborated on a television special featuring the Temptations and Ross’s group, the Supremes. “It was a big salute to Broadway, and it was so much fun to do,” says Mackie. “And I got an Emmy.” They worked together for decades, creating looks for the screen, the stage, and the red carpet. This nude-illusion bodysuit, worn on the cover of Ross’s 1970 album Everything Is Everything, has frequently been emulated but never quite duplicated in the years since.

    Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images

    “Bernadette Peters is my oldest friend in this business, in television especially,” says Mackie. “We had her on The Carol Burnett Show I don’t know how many times.” Here, the pair attend the 1986 Met Gala. In sharp contrast to today, he says, back then society types were still a bit stuffy about entertainers joining the event.

    Fairchild Archive/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images

    Mackie’s first foray into consumer fashion was a collection for the lingerie brand Glydons in 1979. Predating the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show by decades, the extravagant runway show was staged at Studio 54.

    “I’m not going to say any more about the Met Gala moment,” says Mackie, referring to the Marilyn Monroe dress that Kim Kardashian infamously rewore in 2022. Mackie was the sketch artist for the Jean Louis dress, which Monroe had worn to serenade President John F. Kennedy at his 45th birthday celebration in 1962. Mackie described Kardashian’s decision to unearth it as a “big mistake.”

    Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images

    Madonna wasn’t a regular Mackie client, but the one time they crossed paths made pop culture history. Fashion editor Marina Schiano dolled up the Material Girl like Marilyn Monroe in a Mackie runway sample for a 1991 cover of Vanity Fair. On set, Madonna said she wanted something like it to wear to the Academy Awards, and Schiano told her to call up Mackie and ask him to make her something special. “She wore that dress all night—to perform, at the parties. We got a lot of publicity,” recalls Mackie.

    “They were giving Joan a big to-do in San Francisco, where they were showing Land of the Pharaohs, in which she played an Egyptian queen of some sort,” says Mackie of this night with Joan Collins, circa 1981. “We were right in the heart of the gay district in San Francisco. That place was packed. And there she was, dressed like that, in a brand-new dress that I did for her.”

    Harry Langdon/Getty Images

    “I was on pussy patrol because Cher was stark naked except for some chains,” says Mackie of the heavy metal–inspired photo shoot for the singer’s 1979 rock album, Prisoner. “There were all these guys around with hardly anything on. She said, ‘Stay there so nobody will see anything.’ I said, ‘What do you mean, see anything? You’re naked!’ ”

    The singer with Burnett on the show Cher in 1975.

    Mackie did the costumes for all 11 seasons of The Carol Burnett Show, where he met Cher. “Sonny and Cher were on the very first season. We were repairing a beaded dress, and she said, ‘Someday I’d like to have a beaded dress.’ And I said, ‘Well, you could.’ She said, ‘No, we can’t afford it right now.’ I said, ‘When you’re ready, I’m ready.’ ” Here she is with Raquel Welch in 1975.

    Frank Trapper/Corbis via Getty Images

    After donning Mackie at the Oscars in 1984—where she was nominated for Best Supporting Actress, for Silkwood—Cher returned in 1986 to present the Best Supporting Actor award in one of the most famous creations by the designer. “I said to her, ‘Do you think maybe it’s too much outfit? You’re pulling focus from the actual winner of this award,’ ” recalls Mackie. “And she said, ‘Oh, no. I don’t know who it’ll be, but he’ll love it.’ ” Don Ameche ended up winning for Cocoon and did, in fact, love it: “He said, ‘I would not have my picture in every paper in the country with Cher if she hadn’t dressed like that.’ ”

    PL Gould/Images/Getty Images

    Mackie never really intended to show his work on the runway. “I wanted to design for movies, stage, and Broadway—anything other than fashion.” Still, so many private clients called on him that he began producing regular collections in the 1980s. How did the established New York fashion guard respond to Mackie’s arrival? “They were all very nice. Some of them made shirts that said HOLLYWOOD BOB on them.” Mackie celebrates after a show, circa 1986.

    © 2024 Paramount Media Networks/World of Wonder, All Rights Reserved

    Mackie was the guest judge on the very first episode of RuPaul’s Drag Race, long before the show became an Emmy-winning machine. “I thought I’d never get out of there. Do you know how long it takes for drag queens to put on their makeup?” he asks. The show invited him back in 2023 to honor him with the first ever Giving Us Lifetime Achievement Award.

    RuPaul has worn Mackie’s creations numerous times, including a silver version of the signature flame dress to the 1995 VH1 Fashion and Music Awards.

    Rodin Eckenroth/WireImage

    It’s not a surprise that the man recently responsible for styling some of Hollywood’s biggest superstars has a fondness for Mackie. “This dress was kind of a tribute to My Fair Lady from a Broadway collection that I did. Law Roach found it, and he was hanging on to it for something special.” Roach ended up putting it on then-client Anya Taylor-Joy for the 2020 premiere of her film Emma. “On her, it was amazing,” says Mackie.

    Fairchild Archive/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images

    Iman, a frequent muse and presence on his runways, closed out his 1983 show in a towering bridal ensemble.

    “Miley is one of those creatures who was born to be onstage,” says Mackie. “You can’t beat her—it’s amazing.” Cyrus’s team had reached out about pulling from Mackie’s archive for her 2024 Grammys performance of “Flowers,” and she eventually settled on a one-of-a-kind beaded fringe dress from a 2002 collection. The piece fit like a glove, and she performed her choreography in front of the designer. “She’s one of the Disney kids. They’re just so well-trained. They know about rehearsal, and they know about getting everything right—the lighting and the hair. There’s never a detail she’s not worried about.”

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