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Tag: Levi Strauss & Co

  • Companies — profitable or not — make 2024 the year of cost cuts

    Companies — profitable or not — make 2024 the year of cost cuts

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    Corporate America has a message for Wall Street: It’s serious about cutting costs this year.

    From toy and cosmetics makers to office software sellers, executives across sectors have announced layoffs and other plans to slash expenses — even at some companies that are turning a profit. Barbie maker Mattel, PayPal, Cisco, Nike, Estée Lauder and Levi Strauss are just a few of the firms that have cut jobs in recent weeks.

    Department store retailer Macy’s said it will close five of its namesake department stores and cut more than 2,300 jobs. JetBlue Airways and Spirit Airlines have offered staff buyouts, while United Airlines cut first-class meals on some of its shortest flights.

    As consumers watch their wallets, companies have felt pressure from investors to do the same. Executives have sought to show shareholders that they’re adjusting to consumer demand as it returns to typical patterns or even softens, as well as aggressively countering higher expenses.

    Airlines, automakers, media companies and package giant UPS are all digesting new labor contracts that gave raises to tens of thousands of workers and drove costs higher.

    Companies in years past could get away with passing on higher costs to customers who were willing to splurge on everything from new appliances to beach vacations. But businesses’ pricing power has waned, so executives are looking for other ways to manage the budget — or squeeze out more profits, said Gregory Daco, chief economist for EY.

    “You are in an environment where cost fatigue is very much part of the equation for consumers and business leaders,” Daco said. “The cost of most everything is much higher than it was before the pandemic, whether it’s goods, inputs, equipment, labor, even interest rates.”

    There are some exceptions to the recent cost-cutting wave: Walmart, for example, said last month that it would build or convert more than 150 stores over the next five years, along with a more than $9 billion investment to modernize many of its current stores.

    And some companies, such as banks, already made deep cuts. Five of the largest banks, including Wells Fargo and Goldman Sachs, together eliminated more than 20,000 jobs in 2023. Now, they’re awaiting interest rate cuts by the Federal Reserve that would free up cash for pent-up mergers and acquisitions.

    But cost reductions unveiled in even just the first few weeks of the year amount to tens of thousands of jobs and billions of dollars. In January, U.S. companies announced 82,307 job cuts, more than double the number in December, while still down 20% from a year ago, according to Challenger, Gray and Christmas.

    And the tightening of months prior is already showing up in financial reports.

    So far this earnings season, results have indicated that companies have focused on driving profits higher without the tailwind of big price increases and sales growth.

    As of mid-February, more than three-quarters of the S&P 500 had reported fourth-quarter results, with far more earnings beats than revenue beats. The quarter’s earnings, measured by a composite of S&P 500 companies, are on pace to rise nearly 10%. Revenues, however, are up a more modest 3.4%.

    Layoffs, flight cuts and store closures

    While companies’ drive for higher profits isn’t new, they have made bolstering the bottom line a priority this year.

    Downsizing has rippled across the tech industry, as companies followed the lead of Meta’s 2023 cuts, which many analysts credited with helping the social media giant rebound from a rough 2022. CEO Mark Zuckerberg had dubbed 2023 the “year of efficiency” for the parent of Facebook and Instagram, as it slashed the size of its workforce and vowed to carry forward its leaner approach.

    In recent weeks, Amazon, Alphabet, Microsoft and Cisco, among others, have announced staffing reductions.

    And the layoffs haven’t been contained to tech. UPS said it was axing 12,000 jobs, saving the company $1 billion, CEO Carol Tome said late last month, citing softer demand. Many of the largest retail, media and entertainment companies have also announced workforce reductions, in addition to other cuts.

    Warner Bros. Discovery has slashed content spending and headcount as part of $4 billion in total cost savings from the merger of Discovery and WarnerMedia. Disney initially promised $5.5 billion in cost reductions in 2023, fueled by 7,000 layoffs. The company has since increased its savings promise to $7.5 billion, and executives suggested in its Feb. 7 quarterly earnings report that it may exceed that target.

    Last week, Paramount Global announced hundreds of layoffs in an effort to “operate as a leaner company and spend less,” according to CEO Bob Bakish. Comcast’s NBCUniversal, the parent company of CNBC, has also recently eliminated jobs.

    JetBlue Airways, which hasn’t posted an annual profit since before the pandemic, is deferring about $2.5 billion in capital expenditures on new Airbus planes to the end of the decade, culling unprofitable routes and redeploying aircraft in addition to the worker buyouts.

    Delta Air Lines, which is profitable, in November said it was cutting some office jobs, calling it a “small adjustment.”

    Some cuts are even making their way to the front of the cabin. United Airlines, which also posted a profit in 2023, at the start of this year said it would serve first-class meals only on flights more than 900 miles, up from 800 miles previously. “On flights that are 301 to 900 miles, United First customers can expect an offering from the premium snack basket,” according to an internal post.

    Several of the country’s largest automakers, such as General Motors and Ford Motor, have lowered spending by billions of dollars through reduced or delayed investments on all-electric vehicles. The U.S.-based companies as well as others, such as Netherlands-based Stellantis, have recently reduced headcount and payroll through voluntary buyouts or layoffs.

    Even Chipotle, which reported more foot traffic and sales at its restaurants in the most recently reported quarter, is chasing higher productivity by testing an avocado-scooping robot called the Autocado that shortens the time it takes to make guacamole. It’s also testing another robot that can put together burrito bowls and salads. The robots, if expanded to other stores, could help cut costs by minimizing food waste or reducing the number of workers needed for those tasks.

    Shifting patterns

    Industry experts have chalked up some recent cuts to companies catching their breath — and taking a hard look at how they operate — after an unusual four-year stretch caused by the pandemic and its fallout.

    EY’s Daco said the past few years have been marked by a mismatch in supply and demand when it comes to goods, services and even workers.

    Customers went on shopping sprees, fueled by government stimulus and less experience-related spending. Airlines saw demand disappear and then skyrocket. Companies furloughed workers in the early pandemic and then struggled to fill jobs.

    He said he expects companies this year to “search for an equilibrium.”

    “You’re seeing a rebalancing happening in the labor markets, in the capital markets,” he said. “And that rebalancing is still going to play out and gradually lead to a more sustainable environment of lower inflation and lower interest rates, and perhaps a little bit slower growth.”

    The auto industry, for example, faced a supply issue during much of the Covid pandemic but is now facing a potential demand problem. Inventories of new vehicles are rising — surpassing 2.5 million units and 71 days’ supply toward the end of 2023, up 57% year over year, according to Cox Automotive — forcing automakers to extend more discounts in an effort to move cars and trucks off dealer lots.

    Automakers have also been contending with slower-than-expected adoption of EVs.

    David Silverman, a retail analyst at Fitch Ratings, said companies are “feeling a bit heavy as sales growth moderates and maybe even declines.”

    Cost cuts at UPS, Hasbro and Levi all followed sales declines in the most recent fiscal quarter. Macy’s, which reports earnings later this month, has said it expects same-store sales to drop, and there’s early evidence that may come to bear: Consumers pulled back on spending in January, with retail sales falling 0.8%, more than economists expected, according to the latest federal data.

    Most major retailers, including Walmart, Target and Home Depot, will report earnings in the coming weeks.

    Credit ratings agency Fitch said it doesn’t expect the U.S. economy to tip into recession, but it does anticipate a continued pullback in discretionary spending.

    “Part of companies’ decision to lower their expense structure is in line with their views that 2024 may not be a fantastic year from a top-line-growth standpoint,” Silverman said.

    Plus, he added, companies have had to find cash to fund investments in newer technology such as infrastructure that supports e-commerce, a resilient supply chain or investments in artificial intelligence.

    Forward momentum

    Companies may have another reason to cut costs now, too. As they see other companies shrinking the size of their workforces or budgets, there’s safety in numbers.

    Or as Silverman noted, “layoffs beget layoffs.”

    “As companies have started to announce them it becomes normalized,” he said. “There’s less of a stigma.”

    Even with rolling layoffs, the labor market remains strong, which may help explain why Wall Street has by and large rewarded those companies that have found areas to save and returned profits to shareholders.

    Shares of Meta, for example, almost tripled in price in 2023 in that “year of efficiency,” making the stock the second-best gainer in the S&P 500, behind only Nvidia. After laying off more than 20,000 workers in 2023, Meta on Feb. 2 announced its first-ever dividend and said it expanded its share buyback authorization by $50 billion.

    UPS, fresh from job cuts, said it would raise its quarterly dividend by a penny.

    Overall, dividends paid by companies in the S&P 500 rose 5.05% last year, according to Howard Silverblatt, senior index analyst at S&P Dow Jones Indices, and he estimated they will likely increase nearly 5.3% this year.

    — CNBC’s Michael Wayland, Alex Sherman, Robert Hum, Amelia Lucas and Jonathan Vanian contributed to this story.

    Disclosure: Comcast owns NBCUniversal, the parent company of CNBC.

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  • Michelle Gass will replace Chip Bergh as Levi Strauss CEO in January

    Michelle Gass will replace Chip Bergh as Levi Strauss CEO in January

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    Pedestrians walk past a Levi’s store in Hong Kong.

    Sopa Images | Lightrocket | Getty Images

    Levi’s CEO Chip Bergh is calling it quits and handing the reins over to his long-anointed successor Michelle Gass, the former CEO of Kohl’s, the company announced Thursday. 

    Gass will take over the chief executive position on Jan. 29 while Bergh will officially retire on April 26. He will stay on as executive vice chair of the board until then. Once he retires, he will serve as an advisor through the end of the fiscal year. 

    “Chip has transformed this company and will leave it far better than when he arrived. I know we will continue to benefit from Chip’s strategic perspective as he continues to serve on the company’s board,” said Bob Eckert, chairman of Levi’s board.

    Bergh took over as Levi’s CEO in 2011 and is one of just a handful of people who has run the company and was not related to its original founder, Levi Strauss. During Bergh’s tenure, he led Levi’s through its March 2019 initial public offering, its acquisition of Beyond Yoga and its deeper expansion into women’s offerings.

    He also transformed the company into a direct-to-consumer powerhouse that is no longer solely reliant on its wholesale partners. In doing so, he reinvigorated the Levi’s brand and kept it relevant despite its 170-year long legacy.

    “The Levi’s brand is the strongest it has ever been, and as we pivot to become more of an omni-channel, direct-to-consumer retailer, it is time for new leadership,” Bergh said in a statement. “While I’ve known Michelle for more than a decade, my time working closely with her this past year has given me great confidence that her experience, track record of innovation and impact, and passion for the business will position the company for sustainable, profitable growth and significant shareholder and stakeholder value creation.”

    Levi’s appointed Gass as its next CEO in November 2022. She started at Levi’s in January, and was responsible for leading the company’s namesake brand, including its product, merchandising and marketing functions, along with its digital and global commercial operations. She has set her sights on boosting international growth and transitioning the company into a direct-to-consumer first organization.

    “I am honored to be stepping in to lead this iconic brand and company, one that I have deeply admired and respected for many years. Levi’s is more than a denim icon; it’s part of our cultural fabric and an enduring symbol of quality, innovation and progress,” Gass said in a statement.

    Similar to many retailers, Levi’s has struggled to get consumers to spend on apparel as inflation straps shoppers’ budgets. In October, the company cut its full-year sales forecast for the second time this year, saying it expects net revenues in a range of flat to up 1% this year.

    Levi Strauss shares have fallen 1% this year, trailing the roughly 19% gain in the S&P 500.

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  • Levi’s Strauss CEO says his biggest mistake was not firing the wrong people fast enough

    Levi’s Strauss CEO says his biggest mistake was not firing the wrong people fast enough

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    Pedestrians walk past a Levi’s store in Midtown Manhattan.

    Sopa Images | Lightrocket | Getty Images

    The CEO of the world’s most famous denim jeans company said he knew from his second day on the job that the best way to turn around the company was to fire more than half of his executives.

    “The easiest way to change the culture is to change the people. I had 11 direct reports, and in the first 18 months, nine of them were gone,” Charles Bergh, CEO of Levi’s Strauss, said.

    Still, Bergh told CNBC’s Christine Tan that his biggest regret was not firing the wrong people fast enough.

    “My biggest regret is that we didn’t lean into some of these great leaders, and we lost some because I held on to somebody longer than I should have.”

    Bergh joined the apparel retailer in 2011 at the worst possible time — consumers were no longer buying Levi’s jeans.

    “The brand was really lost. We had a whole generation of consumers that didn’t grow up wearing Levi’s like I did when I was a kid,” Bergh said.

    “The company’s performance had been really erratic for more than 10 years. One year the revenues would go up, but the profits would go down. The next year, they would fix the profits, but the revenues went down.” 

    Charles Bergh, CEO of Levis Strauss & Co., speaks during the 2015 Fortune Global Forum in San Francisco, California, U.S., on Tuesday, Nov. 3, 2015.

    Bloomberg | Bloomberg | Getty Images

    Six years later, Bergh brought what he called a once “broken” brand back into the limelight.

    In 2017, Levi’s delivered 8% annual revenue growth — its highest in a decade and well above the 3.1% growth posted a year earlier. The company kept building, notching 14% year-on-year revenue growth in 2018.

    Bergh is stepping down as CEO next year and said his biggest legacies will be jolting the company out of complacency and building a team with the brand at the center of culture.

    “I am just the orchestra conductor and have built an amazing team around me,” he added.

    Trouble still brewing

    Still, it’s not all smooth sailing ahead. The company severely cut its 2023 profit outlook after it reported a steep decline in wholesale revenue and soft sales in the U.S., its largest market. It now expects sales to grow between 1.5% to 2.5% this year versus the prior range of 1.5% to 3%.

    Like many apparel companies, Levi’s had to adapt to changing consumer preferences, especially the growing demand for comfortable and looser fit garments as workers returned to offices after the pandemic.

    A guest wears a blue denim shirt from Levi’s during New York Fashion Week, on September 13, 2022 in New York City.

    Edward Berthelot | Getty Images Entertainment | Getty Images

    In 2021, the company acquired activewear brand Beyond Yoga, a move that Bergh previously told CNBC would help grow its women’s business. At the time, he said the goal is for women’s wear to account for 50% of Levi’s business.

    “It drives me crazy watching a woman walk into our store, buying our bottoms and then walking out and going to an unnamed competitor’s store to buy their top,” Bergh said.

    Sales of women’s products made up 35% of net revenue in the first half of the year.

    Expanding footprint in Asia

    Pedestrians walk past a Levi´s store in Hong Kong.

    Sopa Images | Lightrocket | Getty Images

    Still, Asia accounts for less than 20% of the company’s total sales and China makes up less than 3% of the company’s total business, according to Bergh. 

    “Many of our competitors are 10% or more. Look at Nike, 40% of Nike’s market cap is probably China. So we know we’ve got an opportunity here,” he said.

    “We’re adding about 100 doors a year net globally, and about a third of those stores are going to be here in Asia.”

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  • Four reasons why the consumer is so confusing — and what that may mean for retail earnings

    Four reasons why the consumer is so confusing — and what that may mean for retail earnings

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    People walk through a nearly empty shopping mall in Waterbury, Connecticut.

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    High food prices. Low unemployment. And eye-popping spending on concert tickets and European trips.

    Retailers are chasing shoppers as they navigate contradictory dynamics like cooling inflation, rising interest rates and pandemic-induced jolts to the way people live, work and shop.

    That has made it tricky to predict consumer spending.

    “We’ve been dealing with massive imbalances in the economy and big shifts in spending patterns, investment patterns, supply disruptions, all of that stuff. And then the reversal of all of those shocks,” said Aditya Bhave, a senior U.S. economist at Bank of America. “So that’s been the big challenge.”

    The swirl of confusing trends tees up a closely watched retail earnings season that could offer more clarity about consumers and the economy. Home Depot, Target and Walmart will kick it off this week, followed by other major retailers like Lowe’s, Best Buy and Macy’s.

    The reports come as opinions about the economy have grown more optimistic. Economists at Bank of America and JPMorgan recently scrapped calls for a recession this year. Wall Street investors have rallied behind calls for a “soft landing,” or a successful effort by the Federal Reserve to slow down the economy and higher prices by raising rates — but without tipping the country into a sharp economic downturn.

    Yet concerns linger. Andrew Garthwaite, global equity strategist at Credit Suisse, predicted in a note to clients last week that the U.S. economy will head into a recession next year and drag down stocks.

    As the biggest U.S. retailers gear up to report earnings, here are four reasons why consumer spending and those companies’ sales have become harder to predict:

    Inflation is cooling, but necessities are still pricey

    Americans got some good news recently: prices aren’t going up as much as they used to be. That trend may make shoppers go to stores for more wants rather than needs.

    The consumer price index, which tracks the prices consumers pay for a key basket of goods and services, rose 3.2% in July compared with a year ago, the Bureau of Labor Statistics reported Thursday. That’s a much more modest increase than the 40-year inflation highs that consumers dealt with about a year ago.

    Some brands have even spoken about cutting prices. For example, denim maker Levi Strauss‘ CEO, Chip Bergh, said in a CNBC interview last month that the company will reduce the cost of about a half dozen items, including 502 and 512 jeans, by $10. More price-sensitive shoppers typically buy those items, he said.

    Yet Americans are still spending more on just about everything, even as wages start to rise at a higher rate than prices. Those more expensive items include necessities like groceries, housing and cars. For example, prices for food at home have shot up 25% compared with before the pandemic in January 2019, according to an analysis of U.S. Bureau of Labor data.

    Even Levi’s reflects that. The jeans that it plans to price lower will be sold at $69.50 after the reduction — more than the $59.50 they went for pre-pandemic.

    Questions about cooling inflation and price changes, and how they will affect consumer spending, will likely come up during the analyst question-and-answer session on every retailer’s earnings call, said Michael Baker, a retail analyst at D.A. Davidson. Slower inflation, while good for consumers, will make retailers’ sales numbers look weaker in the coming quarters, even if a company sells the same number of units.

    The silver lining? If prices rise by smaller amounts or even fall, consumers may spend more freely. Target, Walmart and Macy’s have spoken for the past few quarters about customers who have skipped big-ticket purchases, such as clothing and electronics, as they spend more on necessities.

    Consumers could decide to splurge again just in time for the crucial holiday season, Baker said.

    Credit card balances have shot up, but so have wages

    Many consumers may have pinched pennies — but shoppers are still racking up some big bills.

    Americans’ credit card balances topped $1 trillion for the first time ever, according to new data released last week by the New York Federal Reserve. That raises fresh questions about whether consumers can afford to keep up their spending habits at retailers’ stores and websites — or will have to cut back.

    High debt could get people into trouble, if they can’t afford to pay down their balances and rack up interest charges each month. The average interest rate for U.S. credit cards has spiked to nearly 21%, according to the Federal Reserve Board. That’s a more than 6 percentage point jump in the past 18 months, driven by the rate hikes the Fed has used to tame inflation.

    On top of credit card balances, millions of Americans will resume student loan payments this fall. Those installments were frozen for more than three years because of the pandemic.

    Bhave, the Bank of America economist, said there’s no need to panic. Americans have bigger bills because inflation has driven up prices. But many people also make more money than they used to.

    Thanks to a tight labor market, Americans’ wages have risen significantly over the past two years. As inflation cools, the growth of average hourly earnings has begun to outpace the rise in the consumer price index.

    People may grumble a lot about higher prices, but they still have jobs, Baker said. He called low unemployment “the big offset that’s helped consumer spending hang in.”

    Spending on experiences is up, but it may spark new purchases of goods

    From splashing out on Taylor Swift concert tickets to taking two-week trips to Italy, Americans are shelling out on experiences after years cooped up at home.

    Just ask the airlines.

    But what does that mean for specific retailers? U.S. consumers are now spending more of their personal income on services and less on goods — a reversal of the trends during the Covid pandemic.

    Yet retail sales, while decelerating, have been stronger than some feared.

    “There’s no denying that sales are slowing, which in and of itself one might think is not great, but I actually think it’s pretty healthy,” D.A. Davidson’s Baker said. “Nothing seems to be slowing such that it’s falling off the table.”

    He said softening retail sales could signal the U.S. is on track to avoid a recession because it may stop the Fed from raising interest rates further. Ultimately, that would be good for both retailers and consumers, he said.

    Nikki Baird, vice president of strategy at retail-focused software company Aptos, said she’s been surprised by consumers’ resilience. Even as Americans juggle expenses like dining out and going on vacation, they are still shopping.

    “I thought with all of the revenge travel that’s been happening, that would impact consumer spending on goods,” she said. “But I guess they were [in a] ‘If I’m gonna go on that cruise, I need a new dress’ kind of mentality.”

    The pandemic shocked buying patterns, but more big-ticket purchases could be coming

    A new iPhone, a trendy outfit, or a broken dishwasher.

    Retailers often get a bump when seasons change, new products debut and old items break. Yet the pandemic disrupted the typical cadence of purchases – and is still messing with retailers’ sales patterns.

    For example, many Americans bought pricier and longer-lasting items like kitchen appliances, furniture and laptops when they had stimulus dollars in their bank accounts and faced long stays at home. Now, consumers may be closer to refreshing pricier items bought during the pandemic, and it could be a boon for many major retailers.

    Best Buy CEO Corie Barry said in late May that she anticipates lower demand this year for the company’s big-ticket electronics. But she is hopeful the replacement cycle will pick up again next year.

    In the nearer term, two seasonal factors could help. Retailers, including Walmart and Target, may get a bump from early back-to-school spending – especially from college students getting headboards, coffeemakers and more. Home Depot and Lowe’s just got through the springtime, the holiday season of home improvement when homeowners spruce up yards and contractors take advantage of better weather.

    The ripple effects of the pandemic will still affect retailers’ outlooks for the rest of the year. The government stimulus dollars that served as a lifeline for many and fueled discretionary purchases for others have dwindled. The personal savings rate in the U.S. is less than half what it was before Covid, after Americans socked away money early in the pandemic and then felt more financially secure because of a tight labor market.

    The pause on student loan payments likely supported higher levels of discretionary spending for the last three years, too, said Baird of Aptos. Since those payments resume this fall, that could factor into retailers’ forecasts for the back half of the year.

    — CNBC’s Leslie Josephs, Jeff Cox and Gabrielle Fonrouge contributed to this report.

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  • Here are Wednesday’s biggest analyst calls: Apple, IBM, Amazon, Tesla, Exxon, Gap, Netflix & more

    Here are Wednesday’s biggest analyst calls: Apple, IBM, Amazon, Tesla, Exxon, Gap, Netflix & more

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  • Pricey pants from 1857 go for $114k, raise Levi’s questions

    Pricey pants from 1857 go for $114k, raise Levi’s questions

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    RENO, Nev. — Pulled from a sunken trunk at an 1857 shipwreck off the coast of North Carolina, work pants that auction officials describe as the oldest known pair of jeans in the world have sold for $114,000.

    The white, heavy-duty miner’s pants with a five-button fly were among 270 Gold Rush-era artifacts that sold for a total of nearly $1 million in Reno last weekend, according to Holabird Western American Collections.

    There’s disagreement about whether the pricey pants have any ties to the father of modern-day blue jeans, Levi Strauss, as they predate by 16 years the first pair officially manufactured by his San Francisco-based Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873. Some say historical evidence suggests there are links to Strauss, who was a wealthy wholesaler of dry goods at the time, and the pants could be a very early version of what would become the iconic jeans.

    But the company’s historian and archive director, Tracey Panek, says any claims about their origin are “speculation.”

    “The pants are not Levi’s nor do I believe they are miner’s work pants,” she wrote in an email to The Associated Press.

    Regardless of their origin, there’s no denying the pants were made before the S.S. Central America sank in a hurricane on Sept. 12, 1857, packed with passengers who began their journey in San Francisco and were on their way to New York via Panama. And there’s no indication older work pants dating to the Gold Rush-era exist.

    “Those miner’s jeans are like the first flag on the moon, a historic moment in history,” said Dwight Manley, managing partner of the California Gold Marketing Group, which owns the artifacts and put them up for auction.

    Other auction items that had been entombed for more than a century in the ship’s wreckage 7,200 feet (2,195 meters) below the surface of the Atlantic Ocean included the purser’s keys to the treasure room where tons of Gold Rush coins and assayers ingots were stored. It sold for $103,200.

    Tens of millions of dollars worth of gold has been sold since shipwreck recovery began in 1988. But last Saturday marked the first time any artifacts hit the auction block. Another auction is planned in February.

    “There has never been anything like the scope of these recovered artifacts, which represented a time capsule of daily life during the Gold Rush,” said Fred Holabird, president of the auction company.

    The lid of a Wells Fargo & Co. treasure box believed to be the oldest of its kind went for $99,600. An 1849 Colt pocket pistol sold for $30,000. A $20 gold coin minted in San Francisco in 1856 and later stamped with a Sacramento drug store ad brought $43,200.

    Most of the passengers aboard the S.S. Central America left San Francisco on another ship — the S.S. Sonora — and sailed to Panama, where they crossed the isthmus by train before boarding the doomed ship. Of those on board when the S.S. Central America went down, 425 died and 153 were saved.

    The unique mix of artifacts from high society San Franciscans to blue-collar workers piqued the interest of historians and collectors alike. The pants came from the trunk of an Oregon man, John Dement, who served in the Mexican-American War.

    “At the end of the day, nobody can say these are or are not Levi’s with 100% certainty,” Manley said. But “these are the only known Gold Rush jean … not present in any collection in the world.”

    Holabird, considered a Gold Rush-era expert in his over 50 years as a scientist and historian, agreed: “So far, no museum has come forward with another.”

    Panek said Levi Strauss & Co. and Jacob Davis, a Reno tailor, received a U.S. Patent in May 1873 for “An Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings.” Months later, she said, the company began manufacturing the famous riveted pants — “Levi’s 501 jeans, the first modern blue jean.”

    She said before the auction that the shipwreck pants have no company branding — no “patches, buttons or even rivets, the innovation patented in 1873.”

    Panek added in emails to AP this week that the pants “are not typical of miner’s work pants in our archives.” She cited the color, “unusual fly design with extra side buttonholes” and the non-denim fabric that’s lighter weight “than cloth used for its earliest riveted clothing.”

    Holabird said he told Panek while she examined the pants in Reno last week there was no way to compare them historically or scientifically to those made in 1873.

    Everything had changed — the materials, product availability, manufacturing techniques and market distribution — between 1857 and the time Strauss came out with a rivet-enforced pocket, Holabird said. He said Panek didn’t disagree with him.

    Levi Strauss & Co. has long maintained that up until 1873, the company was strictly a wholesaler and did no manufacturing of clothing.

    Holabird believes the pants were made by a subcontractor for Strauss. He decided to “follow the money — follow the gold” and discovered Strauss’ had a market reach and sales “on a level never seen before.”

    “Strauss was the largest single merchant to ship gold out of California in the 1857-1858 period,” Holabird said.

    The list of the $1.6 million cargo that left San Francisco on the S.S. Sonora in August 1857 for Panama was topped by Wells Fargo’s $260,300 in gold. Five other big banks were next, followed by Levi Strauss with $76,441. Levi Strauss had at least 14 similar shipments averaging $91,033 each from 1856-58, Holabird said.

    “Strauss is selling to every decent-sized dry goods store in the California gold regions, probably hundreds of them — from Shasta to Sonora and beyond,” Holabird said. “This guy was an absolute marketing genius, unforeseen.”

    “In short, his huge sales create a cause to be manufactured. He would have to contract with producers for an entire production run.”

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