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  • A Oaxacan Chef Sets a New Goal in Lakeview

    A Oaxacan Chef Sets a New Goal in Lakeview

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    While not abundant, Mexican food does exist in Finland. Carlos López Muñoz found out firsthand after spending a year in the country, encouraged to make the journey from a high school exchange student. He attended school and played semiprofessional soccer for VG-62 Naantali in the southwestern part of Finland. He played as an attacking forward.

    Muñoz found one “legit” restaurant while in Finland, in Turko: “Everything else I had was tacos, burritos, hard shells,” he says, recalling when he was 17. His time abroad sparked questions about his Oaxacan heritage and he began wondering more about gastronomy.

    Last week, he launched his restaurant, Istmo, in Lakeview on Clark, just north of Belmont. Istmo will eventually introduce dinner — including a prix fixe option. But for now, they’ll focus on breakfast and lunch,

    The chef’s resume also includes more traditional culinary experience. He returned home to Mexico, finished culinary school, and eventually moved to Chicago where he staged with Carlos Gaytán at Michelin-starred Mexique (Muñoz was originally enrolled in a program through Disney which would have stationed him at Disney World in Orlando. The partnership with the Mouse didn’t work out as Muñoz fell in love with cooking).

    Muñoz also worked with Rick Bayless, joining a list of Mexican-born chefs who honed their skills in Chicago. Muñoz also befriended Diego chef Stephen Sandoval and oversaw the kitchen at Leña Brava, working there before and after Bayless exited the West Loop restaurant. Muñoz’s black mole, which unites the culinary traditions of both his grandmothers — sweet and rich, with tart from pineapple — remains at the restaurant. Muñoz says he worked four to five years perfecting the recipe, but he’s not possessive. He’s happy when others enjoy his family’s culinary traditions.

    After spending seven months in D.C., he returned home to Chicago. This brings us back to the present, as Istmo provides an enticing option for Cubs fans who want an alternative to the Ricketts family’s Hotel Zachary complex.

    Istmo is backed by Juan Carlos, the owner of Xurro Churro Factory, a popular dessert chain with locations all over the city. Istmo’s beverage program is also top-notch. Carlos owns North Center cocktail bar Raizes, so expect serious drinks. There’s also a full espresso bar with coffee imported from Nicaragua and Mexico.

    Istmo is named Istmo de Tehuantepec, the largest region in the state of Oaxacan — where Muñoz hails. While Oaxacan food isn’t new to Chicago, Muñoz says Istmo’s menu is distinctive and underrepresented. He’d joke that during preshift Bayless would needle him and observe that all his menu ideas stemmed from family dishes. Istmo food is heavy on seafood and pickled and cured ingredients. There are also Lebanese influences.

    “These are flavors that I honestly haven’t seen in Chicago,” Muñoz says.

    Muñoz hopes his restaurant can cater to a variety of tastes, even vegans. It’s easy when you have a cheat code: “If you have a good mole, it’s going to be a great dish,” Muñoz says, knowing mole is naturally vegan.

    Lakeview and Wrigleyville can be a challenging space for a restaurant that wants to challenge the status quo. That’s why Muñoz is starting with breakfast and lunch while easing into dinner. But he’s confident that “everyone surrenders to Mexican cuisine at some point.”

    Walk around the space and check out more food photos below.

    Istmo, 3231 N. Clark Street, open 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Wednesday through Sunday

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Jennivee’s New Lakeview Bakery Is Both Pinker and Posher

    Jennivee’s New Lakeview Bakery Is Both Pinker and Posher

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    For the past seven years, Filipina baker Jenni Vee has proven that she understands celebrations need a cake, it’s the centerpiece for parties, birthdays, weddings, and everyday revelries. So when Vee decided to celebrate trans communities, she thought deeply about representing herself and fellow trans women with an immaculate confection swirling with the pink, white, and blue colors of the trans pride flag.

    Vee has a lot to celebrate with the debut of her second location, Jennivee’s Bakery & Cafe, which opened Friday, June 28 at 2925 N. Halsted Street. Peachy, peppy, and polished, the roomy space reflects the effervescent style and energy of its owner, also clad in a pink ensemble, with nods to classic Parisian charm with a black-and-white checkerboard floor and crystal chandeliers also seen at the original bakery.

    Trans Girl Magic cake (lemon pound cake, strawberry filling, vanilla buttercream).

    “Trans Girl Magic cake is near and dear to my heart,” Vee says of the buttercream-frosted lemon poundcake with strawberry filling. “It’s bright, it’s fruity, it’s vibrant — kind of like how I would describe the trans community as a whole!”

    When all the tables arrive (supply chain delays continue to plague the hospitality industry), it will seat up to 50 alongside long, glowing pastry cases packed with signature hits like ube-chiffon purple velvet cake and bright green buko pandan cupcakes. There’s a selection of gelatos and an espresso bar, where the team serves Sparrow coffee and caffeinated interpretations of Vee’s creations — think banana Biscoff lattes and tiramisu affogato.

    A round white table holds three pink plates of coffee and baked goods.

    Peachy pink tones lend a warm and friendly atmosphere.

    A person pours espresso on top of a scoop of gelato.

    Luca Del Sol affogato (pistachio gelato, lemon cake, espresso).

    Once staff have settled in and operations are running smoothly, Vee says she’d like to add sweet and savory Filipino breakfast and brunch staples. It was an option she hadn’t considered in 2017 when she opened her original bakery in a tiny space at Sheffield and Aldine in Lakeview. At the time, Vee and her mother were the only employees and she “didn’t know the first thing about running a business,” she says. “All I knew is I wanted to create cakes that people would love and a safe space that’s very inclusive and welcoming to everyone.”

    That was five years before fine dining juggernaut Kasama became the world’s first Michelin-starred Filipino restaurant, sparking a “boom” of interest in upscale Pinoy cuisine, Vee says. She is eager to leverage the opportunity to extend that excitement to pastry and baked goods by highlighting the country’s significant pantheon of sweet and savory delights.

    “We have a rich culture and history of pastry [influenced by] 400 years of Spanish colonization,” she says. “The beauty of Filipino cusine is that it’s so diverse and regional. I’m from an island called Cebu where we have our own traditional pastries and breakfast items that I want to showcase. And now we have the space to do it!”

    Venture inside Jennivee’s Bakery & Cafe and peek at its menu items in the photographs below.

    Jennivee’s Bakery & Cafe, 2925 N. Halsted Street.

    A large cafe space with a large pastry case and black-and-white checkerboard floor.

    The new bakery is significantly larger than the original Jennivee’s.

    A curved glass pastry case filled with cakes and cupcakes.

    A tray of purple velvet cupcakes inside a glass pastry case.

    A plate of three Filipino breakfast pastries.

    Yema polvoron ensaimada (right), ube coconut macaroon muffin (left), longanisa cheddar scone.

    Two pink coffee cups with colorful lattes.

    Lattes come in flavors like blue matcha and purple velvet.

    A cooler with a row of gelatos.

    Gelato is a new addition to the Jennivee’s lineup.

    A glass of purple gelato.

    Purple velvet gelato.

    A paper cup of bright green gelato.

    Buko pandan gelato.

    A rainbow Pride flag on the street in Lakeview.

    A cafe and bakery storefront with a large rainbow balloon display.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Inside Lakeview’s New Filipino Diner Serving Adobo Chicken Chilaquiles and More

    Inside Lakeview’s New Filipino Diner Serving Adobo Chicken Chilaquiles and More

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    Cebu blazed a path for Filipino cuisine in Chicago when the family-owned restaurant debuted five years ago in Bucktown. Michelin had yet to recognize a Filipino restaurant with a star. Ube had yet to enter the mainstream. Now it’s impossible to avoid the purple hue while scrolling through Instagram and TikTok food pages.

    The Tans closed their Bucktown restaurant in December and a suburban bakery. But they’re back with a new restaurant in Lakeview, a consolidation of their previous operations. The new Cebu opened on Thursday, June 27 at 3120 N. Lincoln Avenue with a display case full of cookies, pan de sal stuffed with corned beef, or ube and cheesecake. Ownership wants to give customers plenty of to-go options — a breakfast burrito with tocino and garlic rice is a compact example.

    Marlon Tan (red shirt) and brother, chef Martin Tan (arms folded), lead the Cebu team.

    They’re open for breakfast and lunch to start and see themselves as a great place for folks who want brunch on weekdays and don’t want to wait for Saturday and Sunday. Silog, pandan pancakes, ube waffles with friend chicken, and a tres leches French toast stand out. An Iberico pork steak with a tocino marinade might make the brunch menu.

    Marlon Tan describes the menu as modern Filipino, which allows for various influences including Mexican. Adobo chicken chiliquiles are a highlight. Brother Malvin Tan is in charge of the dinner menu, and he and another sibling — Martin — are in charge of the pastry.

    The Tans have experience in fine dining, but the future of the restaurant will depend on the neighborhood and demand. Dinner service should start in about a month. The Tans won’t rule out putting out Filipino spaghetti in the future.

    There are various morning options that can be taken to-go.

    The Tans would also like to expand cocktail service. They’re not permitted to set up a traditional bar with stools due to neighborhood zoning restrictions. The new Cebu is brighter, there’s a full espresso bar. Tan says he hopes to collaborate with Mano Modern Cafe, a Flipino restaurant in West Town, on coffee.

    There are more Filipino restaurants in Chicago than ever before, but it’s important to understand that people and food existed before any alleged boom. Having more peers is nice, but beyond customers knowing of the cuisine beyond lumpia, not much has changed.

    “We’ve always been like looking at other restaurants and seeing what they’re doing and seeing — ‘oh, maybe we could try that,” Malvin Tan explains.

    Cebu will be open all seven days next week over the Independence Day holiday before regular business hours will start.

    Cebu, 3120 N. Lincoln Avenue, open 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Starting Sunday, July 6, Cebu will be open five days a week and closed Tuesday and Wednesday.

    The space light and breezy.

    French toast

    This French toast features marshmallows and corn flakes.

    The pastry counter is filed with cookies and pan de sal.

    Mango-banana French toast.

    Pandan pancake with coconut jam.

    Tocino breakfast burrito

    Short rib tapsilog

    Calamari

    Adobo chicken chilaquiles

    Breakfast lechon Kawali

    Popcorn chicken

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Chicago Restaurant Week: 12 Best Deals for Restaurant Week 2024

    Chicago Restaurant Week: 12 Best Deals for Restaurant Week 2024

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    Few events on the Chicago calendar have the impact of Chicago Restaurant Week. This 17-day celebration of the best this city’s iconic culinary scene has to offer enters its 17th year in 2024 and 400 restaurants across the city are participating. With options for brunch, lunch, and/or dinner, diners can explore new restaurants with a prix-fixe menu for a set price at participating restaurants from January 19th through February 4th.

    Now, 400 restaurants can feel overwhelming. Where do you start? What do you eat? Do you double down on some of your familiar favorites or use this as a chance to explore a restaurant or neighborhood you have on your list? That’s where we come in. We’ve narrowed down the list to 10 of our favorites.

    Take a gander and reserve your time now at one of UrbanMatter’s choices for the 10 best deals for Chicago Restaurant Week 2024.

    West Town | 1072 N Milwaukee Ave, Chicago, IL 60642

    Chef Brian Jupiter’s West Town concept, Frontier, is bringing their game-meat forward smoke & fire concept to CRW with a three-course menu for $59/pp that features smoked wagyu ribs, lamb empanadas, and a delicious peach pie jar with a spiced oat crumble. If you’ve ever experienced a Chef Jup special then you know your taste buds are in for a flavor-packed meaty treat.

    Roscoe Village | 2301 W Roscoe St, Chicago, IL 60618

    Le Sud is the hidden gem of Roscoe Village and this year they’re presenting a three-course mediterranean dinner for $42/pp. Diners can choose one small plate, one large plate, and a dessert for their Chicago Restaurant Week 2024 experience; and our suggestion is to make sure you get yourself the moroccan lamb meatballs and thank us later.

    Lakeview | 964 W Belmont Ave, Chicago, IL 60657

    Lost Reef is a dominant cocktail bar with some pretty damn good food. Now, normally that wouldn’t make for a must-try for Chicago Restaurant Week, but hear me out — their $25/pp brunch option is offering a Mezcal-cured Lox & Bagel and that has me immensely interested. Not to mention, their lobster roll is delightful and is offered on both the brunch and dinner menus.

    Humboldt Park | 1001 N California Ave, Chicago, IL 60622

    Segnatore offers a four-course prix-fixe menu for $59/pp that includes their unique spin on arancini with the cacio e pepe arancini loaded with delicious pecorino. This Humboldt Park eatery is cozy and delicious and offers a wonderful menu of wines to pair with your restaurant week experience.

    Lincoln Park | 655 W Armitage Ave, Chicago, IL 60614

    Situated right across the street from Lakeview High School and Oz Park, Cedar Palace is a cozy, yet incredibly authentic Mediterranean restaurant serving up home cooked family recipes. This is a restaurant we recommend for both restaurant week and, well, just about every week.

    South Loop | 638 S Michigan Ave, Chicago, IL 60605

    Mercat a la Planxa is offering a $25/pp brunch option or a $59/pp dinner option featuring their Catalan-inspired tapas with a view that overlooks Grant Park. Looking for a restaurant week option with a few friends coming in town that are looking for a full Chicago-type experience? This one is for you.

    Lakeview | 2901 N Sheffield Ave, Chicago, IL 60657

    West Town | 1814 W Chicago Ave, Chicago, IL 60622

    Barcocina’s locations are offering the same $42/pp deal for CRW this year and there’s one reason (well, many but one that I want to highlight) for its inclusion in this list — their Bang Bang Shrimp Taco is available for Restaurant Week. It’s the freakin’ good and I’ll bang bang (full pun intended) the drum for it whenever I have that chance.

    West Loop | 932 W Fulton St, Chicago, IL 60607

    Rose Mary exploded onto the scene a few years ago and has never looked back. It’s a love story told by former Top Chef-winner Chef Joe Flamm and is an ode to his Italian roots. The stracciatella alone is worth coming for. There isn’t much to be said about Rose Mary that hasn’t already been said, but it’s forever a recommendation for those who haven’t had the chance to try it yet.

    Avondale | 3500 N Elston Ave, Chicago, IL 60618

    Parachute’s offerings for Chicago Restaurant Week 2024 are a bit different than what you might be familiar with. It is still $59/pp for dinner, but dishes are shared family style. Normally, that might throw people off given the price point but Parachute is the preeminent restaurant in the city when it comes to Korean-American cuisine and when you take a look at the CRW menu, you’ll understand quite quickly that you’ll get more than your money’s worth in food.

    Uptown | 4801 N Broadway, Chicago, IL 60640

    Ethiopian food. Let me say that louder for the people in the back — ETHIOPIAN FOOD. You don’t see much Ethiopian cuisine and for that I say, “FOR SHAME!” Demera in Uptown is hands down one of the best restaurants in the city and with $25, $42, and $59/pp options; they are giving you a full canvas of opportunities to try something new. I suggest you take them up on that or forever regret not taking the little Uber to Uptown.

    Hyde Park | 1462 E 53rd St, Chicago, IL 60615

    Virtue is a giant. From Chef Erick Williams, this Hyde Park restaurant has been serving up critically acclaimed Southern-American cuisine with a smile and it should be at the top of any self-respecting Chicagoans “must eats” list. At $59/pp, Virtue is the perfect restaurant week addition because each bite of food is packed with flavor and the environment is welcome and warm.

    River North | 214 W Erie St, Chicago, IL 60654

    Asador Bastian isn’t your everyday chop house. This “speakeasy” type dining experience sits in an old renovated townhouse on Erie St. and is completely unassuming from the street. Inside, you’ll be treated to delicious bites and tasty libations with Basque influences. And given the relative newness of the establishment, this restaurant week option is the perfect way to try a restaurant that everyone seems to be talking about.

    Featured Image via Choose Chicago – Chicago Restaurant Week

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    Brian Lendino

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