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Tag: Kim Jones

  • How Demet and Alphan Eşeli’s INSTANBUL’74 Reimagines Turkey’s Role in the Global Arts Scene

    In this context, the festival takes on an especially timely theme—not only relevant in Turkey but globally—by examining the increasingly blurred, liminal space between perception and truth. At its core lies a question as old as philosophy yet more urgent than ever: “What is real?” In a world increasingly mediated and digitalized, with performative social rituals and shifting modes of perception, the festival provides a platform for artists, philosophers, intellectuals and creatives to explore how reality is shaped, fractured and reimagined.

    Reality, after all, has never been fixed—it is molded, manipulated and continually bent to the needs of those who construct it. Art becomes a tool for reshaping and reimagining reality, offering alternative visions, subverting dominant narratives and exposing the fragile seams of perception. In doing so, it underscores our vulnerability at sensorial, cognitive and emotional levels.

    The 15th edition of the IST. Festival, titled “What is Really Real?”, will unfold through a series of thought-provoking panels, conversations and debates. Bridging disciplines and opening space for critical thinking, speculation and exchange, it invites artists, thinkers and audiences alike to interrogate the fault lines between the authentic and the artificial today. This year’s lineup features notable figures from across creative industries, including celebrated artist José Parlá, Judd Foundation artistic director Flavin Judd, collector Désiré Freule, actor Waris Ahluwalia, director Paweł Pawlikowski and Cultured editor Julia Halperin, among others.

    Close-up of attendees at a panel discussion, with a diverse audience listening attentively in a warmly lit venue.
    IST. FESTIVAL is a multidisciplinary festival with panels and talks, screenings, workshops and exhibitions in a free-admission program covering art, design, architecture, film, fashion, photography, music and literature. Will Ragozzino/BFA.com

    Over the past fifteen years, the IST. Festival has staged events across a wide range of venues—museums, cultural institutions, historic buildings—hosting gala dinners at sites like Topkapı Palace and panels at Istanbul Modern. Deeply embedded in the city’s cultural fabric, the festival has consistently received support from the government and the Ministry of Culture. For the first time, the festival is also partnering with Istanbul Globetrotter, which will launch a new city guide during the event, offering a curated perspective on Istanbul’s creative and cultural landscapes.

    Alongside its nomadic programming, the organization maintains a permanent home at the restored ’74 Gallery in Arnavutköy, a Bosphorus-side neighborhood in the Beşiktaş district. Housed in a three- to four-story historical yalı (waterside mansion), the space hosts contemporary exhibitions while honoring the ties to tradition and history embedded in the building itself. Presenting a diverse range of exhibitions and interdisciplinary events, the gallery has become a creative hub and connector for both local and international artists. For this edition of the festival, however, the goal is to move beyond the gallery’s walls—activating the neighborhood and transforming the city into a living laboratory, where installations, performances and ephemeral interventions disrupt and reframe the rhythms of everyday life.

    Ultimately, one of the festival’s core aims is to reclaim its role as an international platform—inviting people from abroad, connecting them with local creatives, and demonstrating just how vibrant and alive the cultural scene in Istanbul, and in Turkey more broadly, still is.

    Gallery interior featuring contemporary artworks, including sculptures and wall pieces, by artists such as Bosco Sodi and Ahmet Doğu İpek.Gallery interior featuring contemporary artworks, including sculptures and wall pieces, by artists such as Bosco Sodi and Ahmet Doğu İpek.
    “WE BELONG” was the first exhibition at ISTANBUL’74’s new space in Clubhouse Bebek, with works by Bosco Sodi, Jorinde Voigt, Anselm Reyle and Ahmet Doğu İpek, among others. KAMiL ONEMCi

    As the conversation turns to how the art and cultural ecosystem is evolving—not only in Turkey but globally—Demet Müftüoğlu Eşeli and Alphan Eşeli agree that we are witnessing a sweeping transformation across creative industries. Technological shifts, the pandemic and the rise of A.I. have accelerated changes already underway. “I’m a filmmaker, and if you just look at cinema, the landscape has completely changed,” Alphan Eşeli noted. “I believe we’re living through a historic moment of profound change—something as seismic as the Industrial Revolution, which didn’t just reshape production but altered how people thought and how they engaged with the world.”

    Today, we stand on the cusp of a similarly radical transformation, this time driven by computers and digital technology. “I don’t think it’s possible to remain untouched by it—especially in the arts. The way we create, think and communicate is already changing,” he said. “In cinema alone, the rise of streaming platforms, social media and algorithm-driven content has been a total shift. And I see Turkish artists and creatives at the forefront—many actively explore and embrace new technologies in their work.”

    Black-and-white photo of the exterior of ISTANBUL’74’s Arnavutköy gallery, a historic multi-storey Bosphorus-side yalı with ornate details.Black-and-white photo of the exterior of ISTANBUL’74’s Arnavutköy gallery, a historic multi-storey Bosphorus-side yalı with ornate details.
    Since 2024, ISTANBUL’74 has had a permanent space in a renovated five-story traditional wooden building in Arnavutköy. Courtesy ISTANBUL’74

    After a surprising detour into the global rise of Turkish soap operas—currently and somewhat unexpectedly, outpacing even K-movies in popularity—Demet Müftüoğlu Eşeli and Alphan Eşeli return to a core point: Turkey has a huge youth population, and with it a growing wave of young artists who are deeply attuned to what’s new. “There’s definitely still an underground scene evolving, especially in a city like Istanbul,” they noted. The younger generation is also far more connected to global currents, largely thanks to social media. “That kind of access and awareness is moving so much faster than it did 20 years ago, back when the internet was still limited,” Demet added. “Now, communication between international communities happens almost instantly, and I think the arts are becoming increasingly interconnected because of it.”

    Through ISTANBUL’74, the Eşelis are working to amplify and facilitate these exchanges, building bridges through new formats and channels—including Instagram, where they are notably active. Their extended ecosystem, ’74GROUP, produces culturally relevant stories across multiple divisions, spanning everything from the festival itself to ’74PODCAST, which hosts ongoing talks with creatives from around the world, and ’74ONLINE, a shop dedicated to curated collaborations with artists, galleries and designers. Also under its umbrella is ’74STUDIO, a creative agency that specializes in brand direction, strategy, design and communications across art, fashion, gastronomy and hospitality.

    A modern listening room featuring a record player, vinyls displayed on white shelves, and vintage speakers under natural light.A modern listening room featuring a record player, vinyls displayed on white shelves, and vintage speakers under natural light.
    Located in ISTANBUL’74’s Arnavutköy space, Listening Room bridges generations of music, offering era-defining classics alongside pioneering compositions. ILAY.ARTWORKS

    As if that weren’t enough, they also co-founded the arts and social club CLUBHOUSE BEBEK in Istanbul and launched a seasonal creative space in Bodrum: 74ESCAPE, a community-based platform that features a store championing craft and design alongside an online diary spotlighting travel and culture from around the world.

    Even the permanent gallery, ISTANBUL’74, has evolved into a year-round site for activations and creative connections—not only through an artist residency program for international talents but also as a gathering place for Istanbul’s younger generation. “That’s really the spirit behind what we’re doing, with the art combining with book clubs and the record and vinyl listening room,” Demet concluded. “It’s about creating spaces where people can come together, share ideas and build something meaningful.”

    The Istanbul International Arts and Culture Festival (IST. FESTIVAL) takes place October 10-12, 2025.

    Drone shot of Steve Messam’s installation on a seaside jetty in Bodrum, featuring modular platforms, pink inflatable spheres, and lush greenery.Drone shot of Steve Messam’s installation on a seaside jetty in Bodrum, featuring modular platforms, pink inflatable spheres, and lush greenery.
    Jetty, a work by Steven Messam in “BETWEEN HUMANKIND AND NATURE” at ESCAPE’74, Brodrum. © Volkan Calisir

    More Arts interviews

    Elisa Carollo

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  • Milan Fashion Week opens with light, ethereal yet grounded looks from Fendi, Ferretti and Marni

    Milan Fashion Week opens with light, ethereal yet grounded looks from Fendi, Ferretti and Marni

    MILAN (AP) — Just as the northern hemisphere starts the wardrobe transition from summer to fall, runway shows in the world’s fashion capitals seek to stir the imagination, and desire, for the next warm weather season.

    Milan designers have been ambiguous about seasons in recent fashion weeks, with summer collections not corresponding to the soaring temperatures. That was not the case during the first day of Milan Fashion Week previews on Tuesday, featuring diaphanous, dreamy summery dresses, alongside crisp cotton.

    Here are highlights from the first day of Milan Fashion Week of runway previews of mostly womenswear for Spring-Summer 2025:

    Fendi centenary

    Fendi honored its upcoming centenary with a Spring-Summer 2025 collection that paid elegant homage to the founding era, from art deco detailing to a flapper silhouette, light on the fringe.

    In snippets of conversation that punctuated the show’s soundtrack, Silvia Venturini Fendi emphasized the matriarchal lineage that has made her the third generation to play a key Fendi role. “My mother was the energy of the house,” Venturini Fendi recalled.

    The collection by Fendi womenswear artistic director Kim Jones sought to spotlight “100 years of very chic Roman women,” combining ready-to-wear with artisanal detailing of couture. Diaphanous dresses with art-deco embroidery were grounded with boots. Slip dresses were turned upside down as skirts, worn with a sheer top embellished with crystals. Knitwear defined the silhouette, under sheers or hugging the body over diaphanous trousers.

    Bags by Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories, were soft and huggable, often carried in triplicate.

    Ferretti’s artisanal summer

    Alberta Ferretti showed her summery creations in the courtyard of a former cloister, now a science museum, with an elegant dome rising in the background, the juxtaposition emphasizing the artisanal heritage in her collection.

    Instead of embellishments, Ferretti focused on technique. Laser cut cotton created an almost lace effect. Individual cotton leaves were stitched together as dresses or accents on bodices. Pleating elevated dresses, while boxer shorts gave a casual flair.

    The day looks were in earthy tones of sand, ecru and black. For evening, chiffon dresses flowed in bright shades.

    “They are real summer clothes, because the world in the summer is very warm. I know a show is supposed to be a show but reality is important,’’ Ferretti said backstage.

    Marni’s essential beauty

    Marni maintained its zany heritage under creative director Francesco Risso, with a wardrobe of whimsically tailored everyday looks for him and for her.

    The female silhouette was swathed in form-fitting dresses and skirts, often with deep back slits, sometimes with a mermaid flair. Feathers, boas and crystal embellishments were pretty, and sometimes off-beat accents.

    For him, broad shouldered jackets contrasted with skinny trousers. An off-skew bow on a chiffony blouson was kept aloft through some sartorial trickery.

    Mixing art with fashion, models emerged in threes, and wandered through the showroom full of wooden chairs on conversational groups to a percussive piano trio.

    A sense of Marni whimsy permeated the collection, partly but not only through a series of hats with a yesteryear military flair made light with feathery accents. Risso appeared to confirm his Napoleonic intentions, taking a bow with his hand thrust inside his jacket.

    “We like things that are bold,” Risso said after the show.

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  • Kim Jones Designed Sneakers for Hennessy—Even Though He Doesn’t Drink

    Kim Jones Designed Sneakers for Hennessy—Even Though He Doesn’t Drink

    Chances are, Kim Jones made your favorite sneakers—or at least, they would be your favorite, if they hadn’t sold out in five seconds. He’s the artistic director at Dior Men and the brains behind the “Air Dior” Nikes that literally broke the brand’s website, plus collabs with Converse, those coveted skate slip-ons at Louis Vuitton, and that monogram pair with Supreme that’s only available in limited stock on The RealReal. (If you’re more into heels, don’t panic. Mr. Jones is also in charge of Fendi’s womenswear collection, where these stratospheric boots are currently going fast.)

    Now, in an unlikely partnership, Jones is joining forces with Hennessy, the prestigious French cognac brand that’s technically older than America. (It was founded in 1765, but alas, was never name-checked in Hamilton.) The main caveat? Although Hennessy X.O is an exquisite pour, Kim Jones doesn’t drink. Ever. “I’m really allergic!” he laughs when I ask him if he did any sip-and-sketch rounds for his sneaker designs. “I wanted to try it because I wanted to see why everyone was so obsessed by it, but you know, it just doesn’t agree with me.” Instead, Jones used the classic brandy’s rich brown color story. “And since drinking Hennessy X.O is part of both formal and casual gatherings, it was really important for [the sneakers] to fit into any wardrobe in a different way.” Jones also created a decanter and bottle for the cognac, which is—surprise—owned by the same parent company as Dior itself.

    Hennessy X.O sneakers, designed by Kim Jones.

    Getty Images

    When most people buy a bottle of Hennessy, they probably drink it (or at least gift it to someone special). But when they venture to buy a coveted Kim Jones sneaker, they might try and flip it for double the value instead. Is Jones cool with that? “I’ve seen a lot of my friends’ kids do that, actually! I think some of them have made loads of money,” he laughs. “But then they take that money and buy more sneakers, or other clothes they really want. To be honest, at that age, I didn’t have that kind of ingenuity. So those guys? My hat’s off to them.”

     

    preview for Elle US Section: Fashion

    Ironically, instead of flipping streetwear in his youth, the 49-year-old designer served drinks “at an opera house bar” instead. “I had to work to get through college, didn’t I?” he asks. “But it was amazing, actually. You met opera singers, you met people that design sets, you met aristocracy, you met all sorts…but I did notice the people who ordered Hennessy always had really nice suits, watches, jewelry…I can’t say I didn’t think of them when I was creating these pieces.” One day at work, Jones served the Queen Mother. Two decades later, he was appointed an Officer of the British Empire by Queen Elizabeth II.

    model on the runway at fendi fall 2023 ready to wear runway show on february 22, 2023 at fendis showroom in milan, italy photo by swan galletwwd via getty images

    A model at Fendi’s fall/winter 2023 show.

    Swan Gallet//Getty Images

    As a failed multitasker, I ask Jones how he keeps up with his two big day jobs—at two big-name fashion houses—along with various collabs (Tiffany & Co., Marc Jacobs, and BTS, to name a few), plus the normal stuff like eating, sleeping, and hanging out with Kate Moss. “Oh, I can help you there,” he starts, before adding, “you just have to be incredibly organized.” Seriously? That’s it?

    “And, okay, you need to be sure of what you’re setting out to achieve. Where we start on the [Fendi] collection or where we start at [Dior], we know we’re headed to an end product. And that end product is really how I’ve been imagining it to look all along. That goal never changes.” But Jones cautions that his singular focus can’t happen alone. “When you’re working with a team that’s already been at a brand for a while, you have to teach people what you want,” he says. “It takes time to work with an entity and a team of people. Trust, and time. And you have to be straightforward with people about that upfront. There’s nothing wrong with saying, ‘This will be hard work, and we can’t rush through it.’ Everything good takes time.” Including Hennessy’s new cognac, which takes an average of 45 years to mature.

    kim jones hennessy

    Gwendoline Christie, Precious Lee, and Christina Ricci attend Dior Men fashion shows.

    Getty Images

    Could abstaining from drinking be the secret to Jones’ youthful glow? Even via Zoom, it looks like his complexion is powered by a ring light. Perhaps a skincare collaboration is in his future? “I’ve been approached by most of the big beauty makers,” he admits. We’ll cheers to that, even if Jones won’t.

    Headshot of Faran Krentcil

    Editor at Large, ELLE.com

    “Her beauty and her brain go not together.” —William Shakespeare

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  • Fendi Haute Couture Embraces Intimacy for Spring 2023

    Fendi Haute Couture Embraces Intimacy for Spring 2023

    Couture week might be known for brands outdoing one another with outlandish designs, but Fendi took a different route this season, presenting a simple, classic and, above all, wearable collection for Spring 2023.

    In the show notes, Kim Jones explained that he “wanted to concentrate on the techniques and craft of couture, with the lightness, fluidity and attitude of today.” The result is “a celebration of the ateliers and the craftspeople who realize these garments, the intense work and emotional commitment to each piece that exists for both maker and wearer, and how the intimate traditions of the couture are both living and breathing.” 

    Angela Wei

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