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  • Khmai Cambodian Will Reopen After Starbucks Construction Left The Restaurant Covered in Debris

    Khmai Cambodian Will Reopen After Starbucks Construction Left The Restaurant Covered in Debris

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    After being closed for over a month, Khmai Cambodian Fine Dining and its sibling restaurant Kaun Khmai will reopen on Wednesday, September 18 at its Rogers Park location near Loyola University’s campus. Reservations are available for opening day.

    One of Eater’s 15 Best New Restaurants in America in 2022, owner and chef Mona Sang closed the restaurant after construction dust at an upcoming Starbucks next door contaminated her restaurant. “Our dining room, our kitchen, and everything was covered in dust, top to bottom,” Sang says. Debris seeped into coolers and contaminated glassware. Sang says she feared that she might never reopen again, noting that a financial advisor estimated it could cost $400,000 to cover lost revenues and cleanup efforts at 6580 N. Sheridan Road.

    Sang says construction workers at the neighboring business initially “brushed me off,” and continued work despite the dirt and dust that forced her to throw away $10,000 of food. She says she’s not 100 percent sure how the dust made its way from Starbucks to the restaurant. It may have been the HVAC system or through two holes in a wall between Khmai and the coffee shop. Apparently, a demising wall, a type of structure used to partition sections of a building, was put up by the university and hid the holes from Starbucks’ general contractor. The holes weren’t patched when construction began on August 12. Sang says the contractor told her that their work would not affect her business. But on August 13, she arrived to chaos.

    “We couldn’t even breathe, so at that point, I told everyone just to finish up putting things away and put on a mask — I had to have my mom put on a mask, she was having a hard time breathing,” Sang says. “And then basically I was like, I cannot serve people. I cannot do this.”

    Sarom Sieng and daught Mona Sang at their original restaurant in Rogers Park.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    She announced the closure in an Instagram post on August 14 and then went into more detail with a video shared on August 23. Now that she’s announced a reopening date, Sang says she hopes Starbucks will halt construction, or at least be considerate, while her restaurant is open. Loud construction noises have a habit of ruining any ambiance in the dining room.

    No one has taken accountability for the mess with the unnamed general contractor, Starbucks, and Loyola blaming each other. Sang is caught in the middle after pursuing a fresh start with the university. The restaurateur left her original Rogers Park location near the Evanston border in late 2023 due to trouble with her landlord.

    Starbucks maintains that since Loyola is the landlord it’s their responsibility to deal with Sang’s concerns. Sang has written emails and spent countless hours trying to find answers.

    “Everybody is going to be pointing fingers,” Sang says. “At this point, I don’t care whose fault it is.”

    Sang, who got her start with Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, called the decision to close heartbreaking. The restaurants had only been open in the location since June, near the campus where Sang’s daughter attends college. Inside a bigger and more modern space, Sang unveiled two restaurants, a casual space similar to her original, called Khan Khmai. A second dining room housed a different menu, meant to showcase Cambodian cuisine in a more upscale manner. Just before the shutdown, the city had granted Khmai a liquor license and the restaurant had begun serving cocktails. Alcoholic drinks can be a huge revenue generator for restaurants that can help sustain them.

    “I put all my hard-earned money into it — all of our savings, creating everything — so that we have just to open up this place and for like, within like, you know, less than two months,” Sang says.

    Sang says Loyola was helpful during the closure, but only after she wrote a letter to Loyola CFO Wayne Magdziarz telling him that she needed assistance or her dream restaurant would permanently close. Sang says the school responded to her by offering a loan that could help her quickly reopen. The terms of the loan haven’t yet been finalized so Sang can’t say how much money she’ll borrow. She calls the money “the bare minimum” amount so she can once more serve customers. Sang will also have to dip into her personal savings to keep the restaurant afloat. Loyola did not respond to Eater’s request for comment.

    The Starbucks should open sometime this fall. Last week, a Starbucks rep provided a statement on the matter.

    “Starbucks is committed to being a good neighbor, and we strongly encourage all parties to find a resolution that works for everyone, so that our soon-to-be neighbor can reopen right away,” the emailed statement reads.

    The juxtaposition of a small family-owned restaurant being impacted by the actions of one of the world’s biggest companies isn’t lost upon Sang. She says there’s no way Starbucks would care about her business. Regardless of whose fault it was, Sang says she’s disappointed that no one from Starbucks made contact with her: “Just reaching out and asking if there’s anything we can help you with” would have been nice, Sang says, “Just to say ‘I’m sorry this happened.’”

    A round, black plate holds a small pile of fried egg rolls.

    Khmai’s famous egg rolls.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    Beyond lost revenue, Sang is concerned with broken trust. She feels guilty about canceling reservations — diners had booked tables to celebrate special occasions. Workers left the restaurant needing income while the restaurant remained closed. Some of her mother’s favorite employees won’t be returning, and that’s a difficult conversation Sang had to have. Before closing, Khmai employed about 40 people. Sang says Khmai is hiring for all positions if any service workers have an interest.

    On the bright side, opening day will take place on Sieng’s birthday. Though a lot of records and history were lost as they fled Pol Pot’s regime for America, Sang says she believes her mother will turn 82. Cooking Cambodian food proved therapeutic for Sieng and was one of the reasons that made Khmai special. It goes beyond the stellar egg rolls that Sang made for her church before opening her restaurant. Sang also trains workers on the history behind her dishes so they can share with diners.

    Sang says when Khmai opens they’ll launch happy hour specials from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. with the hope that will help them pay off the loan. Later this fall, Khmai will also launch weekend brunch.

    Starbucks’s general contractor and Sang’s restaurants shared the same insurance company. Upon learning that, Sang says she wasn’t surprised when the company denied her claim. Sang says friends have recommended attorneys, but right now she’s not pursuing a lawsuit.

    “It’s not about even the money,” she says. “The reason we opened up this place was because we wanted to educate Chicago about Cambodian food. We wanted to make sure that we had a place for our community.”

    Correction, Monday, September 16, 9:12 p.m.: A previous version of this story misstated that the opening day was Thursday when it is on Wednesday, September 18.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Loyola’s Upcoming Cambodian Restaurant Serves Food Fit for Royalty

    Loyola’s Upcoming Cambodian Restaurant Serves Food Fit for Royalty

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    Reservations are now live via for the newly relocated Khmai, the Cambodian restaurant that earned accolades after two years in Rogers Park. Khmai 2.0 is sleeker and more upscale than the original, and with its new location along Sheridan Road near Loyola University, chef and owner Mona Sang has added a casual new sister spot in Kaun Khmai.

    Before the restaurants’ debuts on Thursday, June 13 in Rogers Park, Sang previewed her restaurant to friends and media members earlier in the month. Those who attended witnessed firsthand just how far the restaurant has come since its founding in 2022. “This is a huge upgrade,” one diner audibly whispered to her companion.

    The menu draws inspiration from Khmer royal cuisine, or mahob preah barom reacheaveang, a style developed in palace kitchens and one of three overarching culinary genres in Cambodia. It’s distinguished by the quality of ingredients and more elaborate cooking techniques — a style that’s evident in new menu options like the show-stopping trei chien chuyen, a whole fried red snapper that smacks of powerful umami, ginger, garlic, and fresh herbs.

    Another addition, bangkea tuk ampil — large and juicy head-on shrimp marinated in Khmer spices, breaded, and slathered in spicy tamarind sauce with palm sugar and shrimp paste stars. Meanwhile, an old standby, kaw ko — a braised oxtail with bone marrow, galangal, star anise, and fragrant lemongrass, soothed. Sang offered a special preview menu for guests, with Khmai’s signature “dips” — in essence Khmai’s answer to crudités. The beloved egg rolls — filled with ground chicken, shallot, onion, garlic, and taro —were also available. The restaurant was still waiting for its liquor license, so a wine list wasn’t available.

    A royal Khmer dancer watches over the dining room.
    Naomi Waxman/Eater Chicago

    The new space, the former Onward Chicago, is more striking than the original Khmai and includes a soaring arched ceiling and a stunning wall-size mural of a Khmer dancer. The ornate Regency-style gold and black tableware is a product of Sang’s Bridgerton fandom. Chopsticks, forks, knives, and spoons sat on the tables.

    The reopening represents a pivotal moment in the saga of Khmai, which Sang originally conceived as a therapeutic project with her mother, Sarom Sieng, a survivor of the Cambodian genocide. Their endeavor rapidly grew and they soon accrued a customer base with church catering gigs before opening a permanent location on Howard Street near the Evanston border. A rare specialist in traditional Cambodian cuisine, it was a surprise smash hit that garnered a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Foundation. In 2022, Sang and Sieng were named co-winners of Eater Chicago’s Chefs of the Year award and Khmai was dubbed one of the 15 Best New Restaurants in America.

    A plate of Cambodian fried rice topped with grapefruit.

    Kaun Khmai will offer a meaty Cambodian fried rice.
    Naomi Waxman/Eater Chicago

    Behind the scenes, pressure on Sang and her team was mounting. Between a contentious dynamic with her former landlord and the structural limitations of the original location, she knew that a move was essential to the restaurant’s survival. Khmai closed in November 2023, and in the intervening months, Sang has slowly unfolded her plans to the public — including the pending debut of a relaxed second restaurant that would feature fruity cocktails and Khmer street food like skewers of grilled beef, chicken, and squid. A smash burger made with spicy, sour twa ko (Cambodian sausage) will also appear.

    Both restaurants share the space on the ground floor of the Hampton Inn, but Khaun Khmai channels a more relaxed energy without reservations. There’s a large rectangular bar, large windows that fill the room with light, and colorful Cambodian artwork displayed on the walls and around the room. Sang will also launch the city’s only Cambodian brunch services at both restaurants alongside dinner and hopes to begin offering breakfast and lunch in August.

    Khmai and Kaun Khmai, 6580 N. Sheridan Road, scheduled to open Thursday, June 13, reservations via OpenTable.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Khmai Will School Loyola and Rogers Park in the Ways of Cambodian Brunch

    Khmai Will School Loyola and Rogers Park in the Ways of Cambodian Brunch

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    Loyola University students at the school’s Rogers Park campus are about to be schooled in the ways of Cambodian cuisine. Their lesson will be taught by Mona Sang, the chef behind Khmai Fine Dining. It’s been nearly six months since Sang closed the original location of her decorated restaurant. The Cambodian refugee is poised to double down on the neighborhood that supported her, pushing Khmai to one of the 2022’s Best New Restaurants in America.

    Sang’s opening a pair of restaurants on Loyola’s campus. Beyond a supercharged return of Khmai, adorned with a black and gold color palette and Bridgerton-inspired Regency-style table settings, Sang will unveil the more casual Kaun Khmai — “child of Khmai” in Khmer — an all-day affair with fun cocktails and Cambodian street food. Sang says she created the new addition to better serve the neighborhood, and not depend on the university community. But it wouldn’t be a surprise if a cheaper option would attract more students and faculty. Sang will also launch the city’s only Cambodian brunch services at both restaurants alongside dinner. Sang hopes to reveal breakfast and lunch service in August.

    “It’s a lot,” Sang admits. “When you’re opening a restaurant, one thing gets fixed and then five other things break. We have two restaurants with two different menus coming from one kitchen, so we’re trying to perfect that [process].”

    Khmai’s egg rolls have earned a devoted following.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    The new Khmai stands inside a Loyola University-owned space at 6580 N. Sheridan Road on the ground floor of the Hampton Inn. Hotel guests generally expect daytime options, and Sang is eager to deliver a menu with unique items like fresh croissants filled with lychee or kumquat cream, congee with blood sausage, and num por peay — glutinous rice flour stuffed with yellow mung bean and topped with coconut cream.

    Kaun Khmai’s weekend brunch menu will also include doughnuts from suburban bakery Gurnee Donuts, owned by Sang’s friend and fellow first-generation Cambodian American Kevin Lee. Cambodians have played a significant role in the U.S. doughnut industry, particularly in California — a story detailed at length in the 2020 documentary The Donut King.

    Sarom Sieng — Sang’s mother and source of culinary inspiration — and Lee’s parents are survivors of the Cambodian genocide, an era from 1975 to 1979 when the totalitarian Khmer Rouge regime murdered between 1.5 and 2 million people. Fellow Cambodian American chef Ethan Lim of Hermosa has also shared parts of his family’s story of survival in interviews and the award-winning PBS documentary short Cambodian Futures.

    At the restaurants, Sang has opted to home in on serving her neighbors in Rogers Park rather than purely devoting her efforts to luring Loyola students — an inconsistent presence in the area thanks to the churn of the school year. But Sang is also the mother of an incoming Loyola freshman and spent recent weeks testing recipes on her student employees. She’s noticed that many of them miss eating home-cooked meals and hopes to eventually create low-cost meal kits that students can purchase and make themselves.

    At the outset, staff will seat diners for both restaurants in the 40-seat Kaun Khmai space or on a 30-seat patio. Stay tuned for news of an opening date.

    Khmai and Kaun Khmai, 6580 N. Sheridan Road, Scheduled to open in June.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Khmai Cambodian Surprises by Revealing a Second More Casual Restaurant

    Khmai Cambodian Surprises by Revealing a Second More Casual Restaurant

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    Chef Mona Sang is deep into preparations ahead of the hotly anticipated return of her lauded Cambodian restaurant, Khmai, in a larger and more modern space. Quietly, she’s been working on a complementary concept, adding to the fervor around Khamai’s May reopening. Kaun Khmai, a casual sister restaurant that specializes in Cambodian street food will share the Rogers Park location near Loyola University’s campus.

    Since its founding in 2022 on a quiet street in Rogers Park, Khmai has rocketed to local and national fame when it was hailed that year as one of the 15 Best New Restaurants in America.

    Sang’s new restaurant within a restaurant — Kaun Khmai, or “child of Khmai” in Khmer — will offer a livelier atmosphere, cocktails with mixers like mango and lychee juice, and a street food menu that reflects staples from roadside vendors found throughout the Southeast Asian country.

    The menu will feature skewers — like grilled beef, chicken, or squid — plus smoked chicken wings, and frog legs stuffed with ground chicken or pork, vermicelli, wood ear mushrooms, and lemongrass. Frogs are a popular and versatile street food favorite in Cambodia, often transformed into sausage or barbecued whole. Sang also teases options like Cambodian rib tips marinated in lemongrass, shallots, and palm sugar; a smash burger made with twa ko (spicy and sour Cambodian sausage); and Cambodian desserts like noum kon (a relative of the doughnut made with rice flour and caramelized brown sugar).

    Khmai owner and chef Mona Sang.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    Kaun Khmai provides an on-ramp for younger Loyola students and locals unfamiliar with Khmer cuisine — potential customers who may be reluctant to invest in an upscale dinner at Khmai. She’s noticed her children and their peers sometimes shy away from the unapologetically funky flavors. She’s hopeful that without Americanizing anything, that Kaun Khmai’s fun street food will serve as a gateway toward traditional Khmer flavors. “For newer generations wanting to know what Cambodian food and culture is all about, we want to introduce it slowly,” says Sang.

    The restaurant will seat around 40 inside and another 30 on an outdoor patio, is scheduled to open simultaneously with Khmai in May at 6580 N. Sheridan Road on the ground floor of the Hampton Inn. The space, previously home to Onward Chicago from ex-Grace and Yugen owner Michael Olszewski, is divided into discrete bar and dining room sections, thus lending itself to Sang’s dual-restaurant strategy.

    Sang’s source of inspiration is her mother, Sarom Sieng, 80, a survivor of the Cambodian genocide — the totalitarian Khmer Rouge’s systematic murder of between 1.5 and 2 million people between 1975 to 1979. In 2023, Khmai earned a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Foundation. When the restaurants open, Sang’s daughter will join the two and work in her spare time ahead of her freshman year at Loyola in the fall.

    Kaun Khmai, 6580 N. Sheridan Road, scheduled to open in May.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Cambodian Darling Khmai Will Return With Breakfast Near Loyola in Rogers Park

    Cambodian Darling Khmai Will Return With Breakfast Near Loyola in Rogers Park

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    Four months after announcing plans to move Khmai Fine Dining, chef Mona Sang is ready to reveal the new location of her decorated Cambodian restaurant in Rogers Park.

    A rare Chicago specialist in Khmer cuisine hailed as one of the 15 Best New Restaurants in America in 2022, the restaurant will reopen in April at 6580 N. Sheridan Road on the ground floor of the Hampton Inn. Now two miles southeast from the original, Khmai will move into a larger and more modern space that’s owned by Loyola University. Close to the college’s campus, the space previously housed Onward Chicago from Michael Olszewski, ex-owner of three-Michelin-starred Grace and one-starred Yugen.

    Though staying in Rogers Park, the restaurant will embark on its new chapter simply as Khmai, a portmanteau of “Khmer,” the ethnicity and language of native Cambodians, and “me,” or mother. It’s a bold name meant to alert diners to the inextricable role of Sang’s mother, Sarom Sieng, in securing the legacy of traditional Cambodian cuisine. Now serving a new community, one that includes college students and professors (as well as hotel guests) Khmai will open with dinner and breakfast, with plans to launch brunch in August.

    “We’re still going to be sticking with traditional flavors, but for brunch and breakfast, I can play a little more,” Sang says. “Mom will allow me to do that — we’re negotiating and coming to a middle ground. She doesn’t want me to Americanize our food, but she’s OK with this so far.”

    Chef Mona Sang and her mother, Sarom Sieng, will soon get to cook in a much larger kitchen.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    Sang built a customer base with on church catering gigs, and rose to prominence after opening Khmai in 2022, accumulating accolades as a surprise smash-hit on Howard Street near the Evanston border. Mother and daughter were named co-winners of Eater Chicago’s Chefs of the Year award in 2022, and in 2023, the restaurant earned a semifinalist nod from the James Beard Foundation. For Khmai 2.0, a new generation is joining the mix — Sang’s daughter will begin her freshman year at Loyola in the fall and work at the restaurant in her spare time.

    For Sang, the opening represents a fresh start after a contentious dynamic with her former landlord forced her to leave the original restaurant space. It’s also a new opportunity to share Cambodian culture and cuisine with even more diners and a chance to play, experiment, and partner with other Cambodian Chicagoans — to be a rising tide that lifts all boats.

    “[Cambodians] are still not well known, a lot of people still don’t know about the food and who we are, or about the genocide,” Sang says. “My focus is still wanting to share my mom’s story because I think her story is important — what she went through, how she’s a huge survivor.”

    The Cambodian genocide took place between 1975 to 1979 when the totalitarian Khmer Rouge regime murdered between 1.5 and 2 million people. As a survivor, Sieng endured countless horrors, including torture and the murder of her husband, Sang’s father. Sieng gave birth to Sang in a Thai refugee camp, before emigrating with her children to the U.S. as refugees in the early 1980s, first to New York City and later, to Chicago.

    Efforts like Sang’s and fellow Cambodian American Ethan Lim of Hermosa are making an impact in raising awareness. During the In Memoriam portion of last month’s Jean Banchet Awards, newspaper columnist Richard Roper mentioned the adversity Mama Lim endured.

    Khami’s traditional Cambodian cuisine will remain central at the new location, where dinnertime patrons can expect to find a rotating lineup of rich, complex staples seen at the original such as kuy reav tuk, a rice noodle soup with beef, onions, and crispy garlic. Sang will add a new date-night menu featuring interactive dishes like hot pot and smash-your-own papaya salad, complete with mortar and pestle, as well as a fresh lineup of dessert options such as fried and smashed baby bananas stuffed with banana coconut cream.

    Diners should also expect doughnuts from suburban bakery Gurnee Donuts, owned by Sang’s friend Kevin Lee, a fellow first-generation Cambodian American whose parents also survived the genocide. “His mom and my mom are very similar, so we know what it’s like to be Cambodian kids whose parents have gone through trauma and want their kids to be the best of the best,” she says. “When I finally opened up the restaurant, he was one of the first people who was there, inspiring me to keep doing what I do best. He’s always been on my side.”

    Cambodians are at the center of a grand doughnut tradition in the U.S., particularly in California. Ted Ngoy, a Cambodian refugee, helped popularize the doughnut trade among Cambodian Americans and his story, immortalized in the 2020 documentary The Donut King, is a symbol of ingenuity that Sang says inspires her and many other Cambodian Americans.

    With a new crop of hotel guests and Loyola customers at play, Sang plans to tune into the college crowd with affordable options like rice and beef skewers, as well as Sieng’s popular egg rolls, which she hopes will be a welcome relief for fast food-weary students. Early and mid-morning meals will become her playground for dishes like seasoned fried eggs with chicken and rice, rice porridge (akin to congee) with garnishes like blood sausage or crispy garlic, and pandan waffles with lemongrass chicken and ginger syrup.

    The new Khmai will seat 70 inside in addition to an outdoor patio during warm weather. Onward, which opened in 2018, closed amid pandemic shutdown orders and was later the subject of a seemingly messy lawsuit. Its space, though, was immaculate, says Sang, who is happy to avoid expensive construction and simply add her own touches to the space: a black and gold color palette, Regency-style table settings (inspired, she confesses, by habit-forming Netflix confection Bridgerton), and Cambodian artwork from the original restaurant.

    Sang is keenly aware of the risks involved in any restaurant operation, but has worked to set her anxieties aside in pursuit of her primary goal — to keep Sieng, now 80, engaged with the world and out from under the fog of trauma.

    “I have to make sure she sees that we’re going to do this,” she says. “I want her to know that she deserves it. I don’t care about awards or any of that — I want her to know that we did this, we survived against all odds. If we survived the war, we can survive anything now.”

    Khmai 2.0, 6580 N. Sheridan Road, Scheduled for an April opening.

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    Naomi Waxman

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