Now we have Miller. How she is playing flanker is redefining the role on the rugby field.
We’ve been moving towards this for a while. It started with the Crusaders, who gained tremendous success with the use of the 2-4-2 split of their forwards. Gone were the days of pistons, where you used a one-two punch to grind the ball up the paddock. Now going wide wasn’t something you earned, it was something you set up for.
The 2-4-2 led to a 1-3-3-1 and then further iterations on how you might split the pack. All of which meant a further spread of your forwards to cause trouble. Embracing a rugby league style attack with not one, but two, backlines.
Crucial to the success and adoption of all of this was the ticker of another famous No 7, Richie McCaw. His relentlessness helped make the shape stick and soon everyone, from school kids up, had adopted the style of play. No longer were hookers and loose forwards only found on the edge during lineouts. They now owned the outside channel alongside their backs.
The power of these carries out wide allowed for more mismatches in defence. If double tackles were required to pull these forwards down, then more space opened up.
When they weren’t crashing the ball they were securing it. Their physicality again here allowed for overlaps. They were able to secure rucks alone, freeing up the backs to have fun. There were, of course, forwards who have displayed an aptitude for the edge. The pace of Dane Coles ending up on many a highlight reel and freedom underpinning Ardie Savea’s rise to the top.
What Miller offers, though, is the next step up. When she announced her intention to pursue inclusion in the Black Ferns World Cup squad, the comments section lit up. Fullback, flanker, centre or wing? The fans debated the merits of her playing each position. For Miller though, it was only ever going to be flanker. And with that choice, she’s changed the game.
Now the edge forward in the shape we deploy won’t just crash and secure, she will create. Miller’s footwork, pace, ball skills and all-important x-factor make her not just a loose forward but a loose back as well.
We have been moving towards this moment. The evolution of forwards into the backline leading to the blurring of lines between the role of forwards and backs. But never has there been a player with such a complete skillset to merge the two. Jorja Miller is that player. The embodiment of where rugby is going next. It only looks like more fun from here.
Alice Soper is a sports columnist for the Herald on Sunday. A former provincial rugby player and current club coach, she has a particular interest in telling stories of the emerging world of women’s sports.
The team behind Michelin-starred Galit will open an all-day cafe next to their award-winning restaurant. Chef Zach Engel and partner Andrés Clavero plan to debut Cafe Yaya this winter at 2431 N. Lincoln Avenue, sandwiched between the Biograph Theater and Galit.
The counter-service cafe will debut with morning pastries and an al carte dinner menu, but there are plans for lunch, brunch, and takeout, according to a news release. It’s a walk-in cafe with reservations available for parties of four or more. Cafe Yaya’s second floor will be available for private events, and ownership hopes to work with local artists, teachers, and entrepreneurs.
Engel and Clavero feel the new project is a natural extension of Galit, and that the new cafe will further nurture the Lincoln Park community. Mary Eder-McClure, Galit’s longtime pastry chef is baking pastries like walnut baklava; fig, goat cheese, and zataar-stuffed challah, potato bourekia (a savory hand pie) with everything spice; and a vegan apple puff with sahleb (a Middle Eastern milk pudding).
Beyond the more casual setting, Cafe Yaya’s wine program will diverge from Galit with bottles from overlooked regions, including Chinon, France; and South America. There will be plenty of wines by the glass with the selection curated by Scott Stroemer, Galit’s bar director.
Galit set a standard for food with Israeli and Palestinian influences, and Engel is a James Beard Award winner. Cafe Yaya’s dinner menu with a blend of French, Jewish, Southern, Middle Eastern, and Midwestern touches. They’ll pour coffee from Sparrow Coffee Roastery, a familiar sight at many local fine dining restaurants.
News of Clavero and Engel’s project broke in the spring 2023, and progress has inched along. Meanwhile, Galit has continued to star with a family-style multi-course meal. Construction is still far from completion, so expect more details as 2024 comes to an end.
Cafe Yaya, 2431 N. Lincoln Avenue, scheduled to open in winter 2025
If you were anywhere within 10 feet of a Wi-Fi connection this week, you may have come across the still image of what appeared to be an unstacked Italian nesting doll of dimples and unconventional shoe choices on the Tonight Show couch of Jimmy Fallon (who was wearing extremely conventional shoes under his desk, I’m sure). What you may or may not have known is that the bodies attached to those shoes belonged to three mega-viral TikTok stars—who are, in fact and importantly, all Italian.
Todd Owyoung/NBC
This image, and the interview that went along with it, ripped through the internet like a Costco pizza cutter. First, there was Fallon’s response to his guests, two of whom were children, which ranged from occasional bemusement to borderline tolerance to complete derision for the antics of the TikTok act he had booked on his show. More importantly, there were the optics: Fallon appeared to be hosting the call sheet for a multi-timeline show about a Batman villain. But the final reveal for the uninitiated, which happened entirely post-airing, was what took this piece of the historical record over the edge of virality: This adult man and the two children next to him … who look like the Animorphs book cover of a very specific Italian male species … were not all related.
The large- and medium-sized gentlemen with the eyes of a husky and the vocal cords of the Cookie Monster and Donald Duck, respectively, are the Costco Guys, a.k.a. AJ Befumo and Big Justice, who are obsessed with two things: bulk shopping and going viral. The littlest one to their left, however, was a little more of a mystery to new audiences. First, there was his vibe: quiet, considering, frequently unsmiling, but seemingly there for a pleasant time. Then there were his shoes: neon green, in constant motion, jutting out horizontally from his body, without so much as a suggestion that they’d ever touch the floor. Because he is a child, you see—even despite immediately establishing himself as a person (a person with the distinct aura of a wise and magical toad, but a person nonetheless) deserving of the utmost respect. He somehow seemed like AJ and Big Justice’s elder and Fallon’s boss. He’s 3 feet tall, 8 years old, and probably learning how to subtract in a third grade classroom as you read this. And his name? Is the Rizzler.
If you knew none of this, then congratulations—your algorithm is built different. If you knew any of this before the Rizzler started proliferating through social media at large following the Fallon segment, then you are probably a straight white man. The Rizzler may not be related to the people he makes viral videos with, but he certainly has cultural cousins: Hawk Tuah, Baby Gronk, Theo Von. These are words and names that could kill a Victorian child, but words that I know nonetheless. You could call the Rizzler the human Moo Deng … and you could also call him the baby from Dinosaurs. But if you think you’ll make it far on the internet without calling him the Rizzler—you are wrong.
Yes, visually and spiritually, he’s like if Grogu knew meatball subs existed, but culturally, the Rizzler’s whole bit—other than eating things with two guys who are, again, not related to him—is that he is a child who demands respect. When Fallon asks him to do “the Rizz face” (more on that later), he obliges, I believe, out of the goodness of his heart, and not because he’s a dancing monkey. He does the big booms with AJ and Big Justice because he supports his friends’ ambitions, not because he’s a clown. He offers up that he likes chocolate-covered raisins when Fallon strangely yells at Big Justice, “THEY’RE GOOD FOR YOU!” after Big Justice—a kid—complains about raisins as a Halloween treat. The Rizzler is the head of families he doesn’t even hail from. The Rizzler is an aura bomb, wrapped up in charisma and comic timing, who looks like a Squishmallow and smells like pastrami, but in a good way.
Or that’s what TikTok would tell you when there aren’t enough reverent words in the English language with which to praise the Rizzler (government name: Christian Joseph). Trying to convey this to a Tonight Show audience who thought they might be seeing Zendaya or Ryan Gosling, or even that young “Brat” woman they’ve been hearing so much about, is a Herculean task that no one at TheTonight Show even attempted. When an internet trend hits the harsh, NBC-studio-scented air of the real world, it’s like seeing a teacher at the mall. Or maybe it’s more like seeing the school mascot at the principal’s desk. Something doesn’t quite feel right, and suddenly everyone is asking questions like “Who got fur in the coffee maker?” and “Why are Jimmy Fallon’s ears bleeding like that?” and “What’s a Rizzler?”
On the latter, at least, I can help. No small being has sparked this much curiosity with so few answers since your mom started asking you what Moo Deng was. And I’m certainly not trying to pit round things against each other—that’s billiards, and this is actually bigger than that. Because nothing produces more questions and anxiety over where we are as a culture than when the lawless, lore-driven celebrities of social media meet the tidy, media-trained couches of late night television. So for those just catching up, allow me to answer your questions about how the Rizzler got there (other than, again, by possibly being a magically materializing toad). Let’s start with the obvious and most frequently asked question about the Costco Guys and the Rizzler …
Why doesn’t the big one simply eat the smaller ones to grow stronger and defeat Jimmy Fallon?
Great question with a not so simple answer: In joining forces, AJ, Big Justice, and the Rizzler have created a viral ecosystem that simply doesn’t work without all of the biotic and abiotic components working in unison. Less scientifically speaking, these three are the holy trinity of BroTok. AJ is God, Big Justice is Jesus Chrst, and the Rizzler is the Holy Spirit that keeps us intrinsically connected to them all.
AJ, love him or tolerate him, has been trying to go viral or get famous—whichever comes first—since Big Justice was in “larval form,” to quote a TikTok comment lost to time. Before he started vlogging about his family on social media, AJ was a semiprofessional wrestler who went by “American Power Child, Eric Justice.” But he was also, like … making parody songs and putting Big Justice in his “backbling” (a Baby Bjorn, goodness, this lore is deep) to go shopping. Until something finally stuck: Costco. In March, AJ and Big Justice went mega-viral (56.7 million views and counting) for their “We’re Costco Guys” video, and eight months later, they have more than 2 million TikTok followers and their very own Beans (which is to say, an unrelated minor who maybe lives with them).
The Rizzler is simply a funny kid who seems to like doing characters and bits. It’s a tale as old as time, but whereas I pretended I was a puppy dog for, like, my entire fourth year of life and nothing happened but my parents getting annoyed, the Rizzler went viral precisely this time last year for fully embodying his Black Panther Halloween costume: “Just because I’m Black Panther doesn’t mean I’m going up a ladder! Mommy said it’s dangerous.” As legend goes, Big Justice saw this video and wanted to meet the Rizzler, so he traveled with AJ to New Jersey—shockingly, the Costco Guys are not from New Jersey, but Boca Raton, Florida—and the rest was history …
But realistically, the degree to which AJ was like, “OK, and what if I just got an even smaller guy”and recruited the Rizzler to start making content like he was related to them—something many fans still don’t even realize—is kind of unreal. AJ knew what women decorating homes have always known: Getting the tinier version of something normal-sized is simply more fun. I like tiny bowls because I can put even tinier things in them. And I like the Rizzler because he’s a tiny Big Justice, who is a tiny AJ, and there’s no verifiable proof that they didn’t find an industrial-sized vat of the Substance at Costco that made this all possible.
But where did the Rizzler get his name? The other day I heard the words “sticking out your gyat for the rizzler” floating from underneath my 13-year-old’s door. Are these two things related?
Sort of. But also, gross!
The easiest way to put it is that “rizz” is Gen Alpha slang for “charisma,” and a rizzler is someone who has it in spades. I’ll explain “gyat” just because we’re here, and so you can get your kid to stop listening to that song (but it will never leave your head again, I’m so sorry, it’s like the video from The Ring, you just have to pass it on now). Gyat stands for “girl your ass thick” and is basically a replacement word for “a woman’s butt,” so to stick out your gyat for the rizzler is to show off your behind to attract a charismatic gentleman …
I don’t want you to talk like this, OK? But you need to know that there are people talking like this, and they are mostly under 5 feet tall, and we need to be able to talk to them! We also need to speak this language to understand that, in a matter of months and with a handful of viral videos, this 8-year-old boy went from being a rizzler to being the Rizzler. According to the lore, the Rizzler’s friends started calling him the name before he even knew what it meant, and he started making the face that’s made him famous—“mewing,” as the kids say, or “Chad face,” as the slightly older kids say—even before that.
If you were paying close enough attention, you may have noticed that on The Tonight Show, the Rizzler taught Fallon and the Roots how to do the eyebrow raise and lip pursing—but not the signature cheek stroke. Some things are simply proprietary.
What we all need to understand is that generational talents used to debut on the Disney Channel with a show about being a tween private investigator who has a medical condition that gives them a wolf’s sense of smell. Now those little talents are on TikTok. The idea that they can all make it to The Tonight Show one way or another is as concerning and alarming (for us) and exciting (for the Rizzler and Chloe Wolfe, PI) as ever before!
But why do people love the Rizzler so much?
It seems to be one part “he’s so cute, I want to eat him like a Haribo gummy,” a dash of “this kid is just innately weird and funny,” and a heavy pour of “this is a child who I see only on social media that I can assign a character to and have a little fun never knowing whether it’s true.”
The cuteness is often rolled out in the Rizzler archives—cute home videos from before he was a mononymous internet personality—and the humor is in the content he makes with the Costco Guys and the extended Costco Universe (more on that later). But the character work is going down in the comments, where Rizzler fans observe a mafia-dom-like energy from this itty-bitty Michelin Man. Any suggestion of an insult is met with an insistence on respect for the Rizzler’s name. Any suggestion that perhaps Costco food taste testing isn’t what children should be doing for their after-school snack is met with a stern “The rizzler doesn’t even eat the double chunk chocolate cookies you fucking moron.” And, in general, something about that Fallon interview: The fact that he was at the right hand of the host, the fact that he sat quietly confident as his colleagues fawned and fretted over their big moment, the fact that it was preceded by starring moments at Knicks and Mets games this month—all of this just kind of made it feel like the Rizzler had moved beyond his corner of the internet and into the mainstream.
And I don’t know what to tell you—the source material is there. I have officially been Rizzler pilled. This third grader simply has the gravitas of Gandolfini or Don Corleone, whether he technically has access to a (toy) horse’s head or not.
On that note, are we sure this is … a child?
Does the Rizzler kind of appear to be an adult wearing shoes on his knees like Gary Oldman in Tiptoes? Yes. But by all accounts, that’s just part of his general aura. It’s not, like, an Andy Milonakis situation. (Although I would be fine with the Rizzler getting his own talk show, maybe even just usurping the Tonight Show gig the next time he’s on. He’s the head of the family now, after all.) There is a strong video trail that shows the Rizzler being an actual baby just a few years ago. Which, it also can’t be overstated that after a summer spent getting wildly internet famous, the Rizzler simply … went to third grade.
Why did it seem like Jimmy Fallon would rather be at a vegan butter-churning festival than play along with the people—two of whom are children—he invited onto his show?
Pretty rich for ol’ James to be annoyed by childlike behavior from two actual children and their kinda-sorta guardian! At various times throughout the interview, Fallon seemed to roll his eyes or attempt to move on from the kind of bombastic, repetitive clownery the Costco Guys intentionally use in their videos—you know, the kinds of things kids like? The internet astutely pointed out that Jimmy should be careful. By disrespecting him, Jimmy was treading awfully close to turning the Rizzler into the Joker.
My pet theory is that Fallon didn’t know, until the second the house lights went down and the stage lights came up, that the Rizzler was a child. Just look at the way he looks to the Rizzler for help when AJ and Big Justice bellow out their 20th Big Boom of the night. Also, Jimmy didn’t help the Rizzler when the kid asked him what to do with the licorice that received only two measly booms, and because he was too polite to put it on Jimmy’s desk, he just had to eat it. That is absolutely no way to treat the Rizzler, a person I learned about four days ago.
Why do theysay “BOOM!” like that, though? Is it a sloppy homage to Emeril’s “BAM”?
You know what, maybe? But sometimes virality really is just as simple as rhyming, and someone like AJ knows that. The Costco Guys invented the “Boom or Doom” scale to rate their Costco findings, immediately abandoned ever “dooming” anything, and resorted to rating everything on a five-boom scale. One boom is no good, three booms is solid, and when something is a home run, it gets “Five! Big! Booms!” The booms must be both verbally and physically performed, and they must be loud (sorry, Jimmy Fallon).
The booms are more native to the Costco Guys than the Rizzler, but he does participate when called upon and always backs them up when they’re giving big booms, even when Fallon is sighing down his neck a foot away. He’s magnanimous that way.
Wait, but if AJ isn’t the Rizzler’s dad, who is? Did he spawn from a Costco baby back rib like Adam?
The Rizzler has parents. His dad is especially present on the Rizzler’s own social media pages, filming and sometimes doing skits alongside him and his little brother (yes, they get even smaller). The Rizzler’s dad even has his own moniker within the Costco Universe: Uncle Savasta.
Sorry, did you say the Costco Universe?
I’m suspicious of AJ and where he falls on the scale of “monetizing your children—and also not your children!—to live out your dreams vicariously through them,” but to be honest, I find his laugh while spending time with his child (and not his child!) so genuine that the jury’s still out. Plus, it’s all such a gender bend of the Toddlers & Tiaras mom trope that I’m almost impressed by the subversiveness …
But I’ll hand this to Costco dad every day of the week: He’s incredible at talent acquisition and world-building. Get this guy out of the amateur wrestling ring and into a Marvel studio. Even before AJ and Big Justice acquired the Rizzler, they’d been branding their entire family and adding newcomers to the Costcoverse. There’s Cousin Angelo, who, like Cousin Olver, seems to be a less preferred member of the crew but who also has an admirer in Vita Coco, which is endlessly funny to me; there’s this guy Makeshift Zach, who gets all the exclusive interviews with the family; and regularly appearing in the videos are MBJ, a.k.a. Mother of Big Justice, and the sister Ashley, who simply goes by Ashley, which I personally find iconic.
And of course, the Rizzler debuted in the Costco Universe at the beginning of the summer, rating chocolate chip cookies (pronounced exclusively: DUWBA CHUNK CHOCK-LUT COOOOKIE) with the gang. Every member of the Costco Extended Universe gets their own added verse in the viral song “We Bring the Boom”; there’s a line in the Rizzler remix that is funnier and more astute than anything a band of bloggers could ever conjure: We’re like the three ev-o-lutions of a Pok-e-mon.
Not to start any beef, but at this point, has the Rizzler become bigger than Costco Guys—bigger than any one fictional universe can contain?
Technically speaking, the Rizzler isn’t bigger than most things. You could roll him up in a ball and save him in your pocket for later, like a jawbreaker.
But in terms of power and influence—yeah. He’s the Steve Urkel of bro-y TikTok: a guest character brought in to jazz things up who stole the show so completely that you’re pretty sure the show was called Steve Urkel. But I firmly believe that the Rizzler needs the structure and support of the Costco Universe as much as they need his star power.
Ok, but, is this … bad? Is it bad to enjoy the Rizzler as a sort of funny little internet character who is, in fact, a child who isn’t really in control of his own online presence? Is this going to haunt me? Is this going to become a Baby Gronk situation?
I assume this tricky final question is payback for telling you about sticking out your gyat for the Rizzler, in which case, I do understand, but wow, what a doozy.
I’ll say this: The feeling I have when I look at the Rizzler is the same one I have when I see a Shiba Inu puppy. Can you please just stay like this forever? Can you be cute just like THIS forever, even though I know the future thing you’ll be is just as good???
And for that reason, I would really love for the Rizzler’s parents (and OK, AJ, too) to talk to the Corn Kid’s parents. Remember him? The 7-year-old with a naturally hilarious way of communicating who accidentally got famous on another person’s social media channel? And then he took a few big brand deals, threw a few baseballs, rode on a float in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, and then just … went back to school without usever even learning his last name? Because his mom didn’t want us to know it! And one day, after that kid has hypothetically finished four years of college paid for by one Chipotle ad and the good personality he had when he was 7, if he still wants to be famous, or work for Big Corn, or make viral TikTok videos—he can! (And listen, even with all that care, internet rumors still went viral saying that he died, which Corn Kid had to clear up on Instagram. Which is exactly why it was a good idea for Corn Kid to go back to being just a kid.)
Fame isn’t linear, and nothing can stay golden forever. Nor can it stay perpetually round and fully detached from the Tonight Show floor. Internet main characters, even the young ones, are like the plucky ingenues of the aughts—we lift them up onto pedestals so high, they can only ever fall from them. And while I feel confident in the Rizzler’s Anne Hathaway–like ability to bounce back, I’d love to see him not have to. I’d love to see the adults around him help him avoid any descent that’s too painful. We’ve learned to respect the Rizzler. Let’s—all of us—keep it that way. Because I certainly don’t wanna find out who gets the horse head first.
One bite of Max Glassman’s pierogies is all it takes to taste the difference. In his alter-ego, Pierogi Papi, Glassman saves the city from mundane and limp Polish dumplings. He’ll stuff his with traditional fixings like cheese and potato but also deviate with braised beef or caramelized onion.
He’s popped up across the city, including Moonwalker Cafe in Avondale. The Chicago Reader’s Monday Night Foodball hosted him at an event last year. But after years of wandering, it appears Glassman has found a semi-permanent base of operations in Logan Square at one of the city’s most unique bars, Consignment Lounge.
Mark Pallman and Katie Piepel opened the bar in September 2022 in Avondale at 3520 W. Diversey Avenue and have stuffed the bar with a mishmash of trinkets liberated from estate sales, auctions, and antique malls. Pallman explains everything in the bar is for sale, including vintage sports memorabilia — he recalls a poster featuring members of the 1986 Super Bowl Champion Chicago Bears was a hot item. The poster captured players in the locker room wearing towels. There are also paintings, hats, old glassware, comics, and books: “It’s a smattering of things I like,” Pallman says.
Just like bucia used to make.
At $12 to $14, the cocktails are affordable.
Everything is for sale.
Piepl and Pallman were introduced to Glassman as a patron. The bar had a revolving slate of food vendors and Pierogi Papi blew them away. And so, for the last few weeks, Glassman has been a fixture on Thursdays and Fridays. Milo’s Market is another Consignment Lounge regular, popping up when the schedule permits. Their specialty is “beeria” grilled cheese.
Pallman has a background in advertising and Piepl in real estate. The purchase of Consignment Lounge’s building was. at first, investment property for the couple, who have been married for four years: “I’ve always loved taverns and dive bar cocktails,” he says. They have a small staff of bar veterans. Jana Heili (Machine, The Walk-In) and Mark Bailie (SmallBar, Punch House) developed the drink recipes. KB Woodson (Stop Along, Harding Tap) handles staff relations.
Consignment Lounge’s drinks aren’t as fancy — or expensive — as some cocktail lounges, but they’re well thought out and more than hold their own. Pallman says it’s the customer service that makes the bar special.
These bartenders have experience at some of Chicago’s most popular spots.
Luxury, redefined.
The space also has its share of CRT TVs, which they can hook up to a streaming device to watch movies or even live sports. Some customers are tricked into thinking there’s some sort of nostalgic video filter being applied. No, that’s just an old-school 4:3 aspect ratio.
Hopefully, by spring, Consignment Lounge will unveil an enclosed patio that could hold 30 to 40 people. The bar should grow, Pallman says. After all, the original concept is the evolution of a basement.
Walk through the space below.
Consignment Lounge, 3520 W. Diversey Avenue, open 4 p.m. to midnight on Tuesday through Thursday; 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Friday; noon to 2 a.m. on Saturday; noon to midnight on Sunday. Pierogi Papi onsite at 6 p.m. until sold out on Thursday and Friday nights — check social media to confirm.
Yes, that’s a St. Louis football Cardinals penant.
Chris and Andy talk about the trailers for Severance Season 2 (0:00) and Say Nothing, which were released this week (1:00). Then they talk about two recent independently made shows—Penelope from Mark Duplass and Shatter Belt from James Ward Byrkit (21:08)—and how this burgeoning independent TV industry compares to the independent movie scene of the ’90s (37:40).
Hosts: Chris Ryan and Andy Greenwald Producer: Kaya McMullen
Now that Anora has hit select theaters, Sean assesses the state of the Best Picture race by running through a long (emphasis on long) list of 26 films that have a chance to be nominated at the Oscars (1:00). Then, Sean and Amanda discuss Anora, Sean Baker’s Palme d’Or–winning drama about a whirlwind romance between a sex worker and the son of a Russian oligarch (30:00). Finally, Sean is joined by John Crowley, the director of the new Andrew Garfield and Florence Pugh romance We Live in Time (1:15:00). They discuss, among other things, the qualities that attracted Crowley to Garfield and Pugh, how he chooses to work in film vs. theater, his long-running project of sincere romantic dramas, and more.
Hosts: Sean Fennessey and Amanda Dobbins Guest: John Crowley Senior Producer: Bobby Wagner Video Producer: Jack Sanders
Juliet and Callie return with so much to discuss about Love Is Blind Season 7, Episodes 10 and 11. First, the ladies discuss Nick and Hannah’s breakup (1:37) and Tim and Alex’s breakup (16:15). Then they talk about Marissa and Ramses’s fleeting relationship (29:09), Garrett and Taylor’s hopeful end (37:00), and last, the aftermath of Ashley and Tyler (42:35).
West Town’s new pizzeria replacing Parson’s Chicken & Fish is here at long last. Dicey’s Pizza & Tavern has kept busy over the last week inside the former Parson’s at 2109 W. Chicago Avenue. Parson’s owners did a light remodel, matching the decor to the original Dicey’s that opened in 2022 in Nashville.
Dicey’s specializes in Chicago thin-crust pizza, commonly known as tavern style. Though the pizzeria debuted in Tennessee, owners Land & Sea Dept. are a Chicago company known for Parson’s, Cherry Circle Room, Lonesome Rose, and other local restaurants and bars. Dicey’s pizza is razor-thin without the puffs customers can find on the edge of some Chicago crusts. Dicey’s uses cup-and-char pepperoni cups which start on one of its specialty pies, Peppy Boy (pepperoni, hot honey, mozzarella, parmesan, oregano, spicy tomato sauce). There’s also a classic sausage and giardiniera. For now, it’s dine-in and pick-up only.
Dicey’s takes over the former Parson’s space.
The vegan Earth Crisis (left), Pep Boy (center), and sausage and giardiniera.
The crust is very thin and crunchy.
Tater tots, chicken wings, and salads are also on the menu.
A vegan pizza without cheese is called Earth Crisis, a nod to the hardcore band from Syracuse, New York that’s famously straight edge and vegan. The pizza comes piled with tomato sauce, eggplant, roasted onions, chili flakes, basil, lemon, and olive oil. Dicey’s decor strays from Chicago tradition with motorcycles and skeletons (vaguely reminiscent of Twisted Spoke). It’s more of an edgy feel versus red and white tablecloths, and that makes the inclusion of a somewhat obscure hardcore band fit with the environment. Land & Sea co-owner Cody Hudson says the company’s art director, Drew Ryan, would wear Earth Crisis shirts at the office, and when it came to figuring out names for pizzas, the idea presented itself. Ryan also helped organize a hardcore show on the patio at Dicey’s in Nashville, which led to a collaboration with Nashville vegan bakery Guerilla Biscuits.
But West Town, full of families, might not be the scene for hardcore. Don’t sweat it. Dicey’s has high chairs, even ones that are tall enough for high-top tables. Three pinball machines from Logan Arcade on the first floor, and a trio of vintage arcade cabinets on the second-floor ledge that houses an additional bar and more seats ideal for a large group. There are only two TVs in the space, which means this isn’t a sports bar. The old fireplace, a holdover from the old Old Oak Tap days, remains on the first floor.
On the beverage side, there’s a mix of local beer and natural wines. There’s also frozen cocktails — they’re still using the machines left over from Parson’s. Some wine bottles are also available to go in a cooler in the back of the restaurant. The restaurant is also near All Together Now, one of the best wine stores in town, so that’s an option for carryout.
Other standouts are juicy Buffalo wings, tater tots, and salads. A sign near the bathrooms declares that “you can win friends with salads,” a poke at the old Simpsons gag, and perhaps a sign of confidence in Dicey’s salad game.
Dicey’s certainly talks a good game — they snagged space in an Esquire story last year about tavern pizza. But Chicago, no matter what Jerry Reinsdorf may say, is no Nashville. There’s more competition here. See if Dicey’s can walk the walk in the photos below.
Dicey’s Pizza & Tavern, 2019 W. Chicago Avenue, (773) 697-3346, open 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 4 p.m. to midnight on Friday; 11 a.m. to midnight on Saturday; and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Sunday, order pickup via Toast
The patio remain instact.
Dicey’s is family friendly until the sun sets.
The space has done through a light remodel.
Folks will recognize the fireplace from the Old Oak Tavern days.
The cooler behind is for to-go drinks and stocked with bottles and cans of wine.
The all-season room as three pinball machines from Logan Arcade.
In the background, the stairs to the second-floor landing can be seen.
“WWF Superstars,” “Battletoads,” and “Super Mario Bros.” can be played.
An agave lounge with a six-course small bites menu paired with cocktails should debut later this month in Wicker Park. Botánero is from chef and partner Yanitzin “Yani” Sanchez and partner Richard Vallejo. It’s replacing Caspian, a casual Mediterranean restaurant at 1413 N. Ashland Avenue, according to a news release.
Botánero’s special tasting menu will be offered on Wednesdays, kicking off on October 23. There will be two seatings daily and reservations will be taken via Tock. Besides the tasting menu look for tamales, quesadillas, and tlayudas made with tortillas derived from heirloom corn from Mexico.
Typically served at bars with drinks, botanas are small plates, kind of a Mexican counterpart to Spanish tapas. Ownership hopes the taco de negro asada with prime beef ribeye, queso asadero, mojo negro, onion-cilantro gremolata, and roasted marrow bone becomes a signature.
Weekend brunch should include a bottomless option for unlimited house margaritas, micheladas, mimosas, and spritzers.
Chef Yani and Vallejo are frequent collaborators. They teamed on Taquizo, a casual taqueria that opened in 2022 and has since closed in Wicker Park. Taquizo was a reboot of Las Palmas. There are also two shuttered suburban Mexican spots: Mercado Cocina in suburban Glenview and Cine in Hinsdale.
Sanchez’s credits also include Sabor Saveur in Wicker Park. That space would become Takito, and she continued as a consultant for the burgeoning group that expanded into West Loop and Lincoln Park.
While not the sole focus of Botánero, Mexican tasting menus are still a rarity in Chicago, with Topolobampo and Tzuco in River North being the most prominent. In recent years, taco-tasting menus at places like Cariño and Taqueria Chingon have soared.
Botánero, 1413 W. Ashland Avenue, planned for an October opening; Wednesday tasting menu launches on October 23, brunch launches on November 9.
The lines form about an hour before the 9 a.m. opening time, with customers waiting outside Fat Peach Bakery hoping to grab a treat like a strawberry milk croissant. Owners David Castillo and Kerrie Breuer opened their small bakery on August 31 at 2907 S. Archer Avenue, replacing the former Bridgeport Bakery, a neighborhood icon for nearly five decades.
The lines start early at Fat Peach.
Judging by the long weekend lines, the neighborhood has embraced the change. Fat Peach specializes in laminated pastries, and they’ve quickly sold out of croissants and Danishes while open three days a week — Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Breuer’s strawberry milk-filled croissants, a play on Strawberry Quik, has been one of the stars. Another highlight is a mushroom Danish which uses a paste made of sous vide mushrooms and English cheddar mornay sauce. It’s then twice-baked with an enoki mushroom conserva.
“It takes me forever to make all of that — I don’t know of any place that does that,” Castillo says.
Mushroom Danish
Kerrie Breuer and David Castillo are Bridgeport residents.
There’s no online ordering option, for now. Castillo and Breuer have thought about opening on more days, but they want to ease into any expansion plans. Castillo’s resume includes working for Sodexo at the Shedd Aquarium and with Hogsalt, working at Restoration Hardware in Gold Coast. He worked for Rich Labriola and at White Oak Tavern in Lincoln Park. Breuer moved to Chicago in June 2019 from North Dakota. Her background is in cake decorating and she appeared on Amazon Studios’Dr. Seuss Baking Challenge. The two met while working together at a Chicago bakery. Castillo, a Mexican American, grew up in suburban Blue Island. Breuer grew up in North Dakota after being adopted from South Korea.
Castillo visited Mexico City as a child, and the bakeries there — using simple ingredients and techniques — left an impression. He wondered why he couldn’t find similar pastries in Chicago. He credits White Oak’s opening chef, John Asbaty, with sharing a similar philosophy in using the best ingredients in his dishes. That showed Castillo that bringing those memories of Mexico City to Chicago was possible. But not everything is hyperlocal and they’ll source from all over. Sourcing tropical fruits, for example, is a challenge during midwestern winters.
Fat Peach replaces Bridgeport Bakery, which was open for nearly 50 years.
Most of the business is to-go, but there is seating.
Fat Peach specializes in laminated pastries.
Fat Peach was inspired by Mexican bakery culture.
“This place is kind of a mishmash of the best flour, local flour, butter we can get,” Castillo says. “But we also we also like to use fruit in our pastry — because who doesn’t want that? It’s a nice reminder of, you know, how sweet life can be.”
They’re using Four Letter Word Coffee, and for Fat Peach’s mocha, they’re mixing chocolate and cinnamon from Mexico in their syrups. They’re looking for ways to incorporate more Mexican flavors into their pastries, waiting to see what their customers toward.
Breuer left Korea when she was 6 and grew up with a white military family in America. As a teen, she spent a year in South Korea, familiarizing herself with the culture (she jokes that she sometimes considers herself a banana). Flavors like red bean, sesame, and matcha could be incorporated into future pastries. There have been tasty experiments like a kimchi-pimento Danish with English cheddar, and roasted potatoes with rosemary. Breuer wants balanced flavors that work versus gimmickery.
The couple looked at spaces for six months and had targeted a location in suburban La Grange, but that deal fell through. The two are Bridgeport residents and pounded after Castillo noticed a “for lease” sign. It wasn’t exactly a turnkey operation. Beyond cleanup, the couple needed to purchase some new equipment which they found via Facebook Marketplace.
Kerrie Breuer fills pastries.
Let there be quiche.
As Chicago’s demographics change and tastes continue to evolve, Fat Peach has a different bent compared to its European-focused predecessor. Customers won’t find Bridgeport Bakery’s sausage and bacon buns (the bakery officially closed in October 2021). They might not find paczkis either. Castillo says he doesn’t want to lean on the Polish doughnuts to sustain business. He’d rather Fat Peach be busy with unique offerings regularly.
As far as the name? Yes, it’s no longer stonefruit season, but nothing on the menu ever contained peaches. The couple just loves puns.
“I feel like everyone, like, wants to have a fat peach nowadays — especially the ladies,” Breuer says with a laugh.
Fat Peach Bakery, 2907 S. Archer Avenue, open 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.
Welcome to the Scene Report, a new column in which Eater Chicago captures the vibe of a notable Chicago restaurant at a specific moment in time.
Parachute HiFi opened without fanfare, and that’s not what folks would expect from James Beard Award-winning chefs Johnny Clark and Beverly Kim. Parachute was a tour de force, a stunning restaurant that showed both Korean flavors in a different light to Chicago and the rest of the country.
But a decade after opening along Elston, and igniting Avondale as one of the hottest dining neighborhoods in America, Kim and Clark have shifted gears. Parachute HiFi marks their latest attempt at reinventing themselves. While they hope to eventually bring back Parachute in all its fine dining glory to a Downtown Chicago space, their focus right now is to bring back some fun to Elston. Parachute HiFi opened in early September at the former Parachute space, 3500 N. Elston Avenue.
The Wait: Parachute was a fine dining restaurant and thanks to its Michelin-star status and notoriety in the Korean community, finding a table without a reservation was nearly impossible during its peak. HiFi moves away from that with more of a local community feel — they don’t take reservations. Don’t have plans? Find a barstool with your name on it. Need a quick weeknight dinner? Just walk in and grab a table.
The Vibe: In some way, Clark and Kim’s restaurant down the street, Anelya, provided a blueprint for the next iteration of Parachute. Anelya serves Ukrainian comfort food and the Ukrainian music is essential in creating an environment that elevates a country’s culture that hasn’t been showcased too much in Chicago’s restaurant scene.
Clark admits he’s a bit of an audiophile, having collected vintage speakers and visitors will see some of those pieces on display, and he’s ventured as far as exotic locales like Peoria to source. There’s a DJ booth at the front of the bar. Kim and Clark have no prior experience spinning records, but they planning on hosting themed music nights. But the couple isn’t handling all the music. In recent nights, DJs have played soul, funk, Japanese pop, French yeyé, and more.
There’s a tradition of Korean pubs with tall beers, small plates, and karaoke. That’s something the Chicago area has been recently introduced to, with places like Miki’s Park in River North, and New Village Gastropub in suburban Northbrook. Parachute HiFi captures the casual nature of these pubs and it may remind customers of another Avondale institution across the street. Irish pub Chief O’Neil’s has been around since 1999 and possesses a come-as-you-are atmosphere. The original Parachute was family-friendly, an oddity for Chicago’s fine dining restaurants. HiFi, somehow even as a bar without a children’s menu, is even more so. It’s a throwback, like those Chicago pubs of yore, when children were taught that local bars were safe spaces, places they could find shelter if they were in danger and needed support. It’s Chicago tavern culture, don’t argue with it.
What to Eat: They’re not pigeonholing themselves at Parachute HiFI. The menu features a mash-up of Korean, Chinese, Thai, Japanese, and more. The chefs have avoided talking about the food too much because they want to pique people’s interest without spoiling any surprises or having cynical folks making knee-jerk conclusions. While different from Parachute’s original menus, Korean food can often be misunderstood, and Kim remains sensitive to those conclusions, whether it’s complaints about prices or Koreans complaining that the food tastes different from what they grew up eating.
Salmon nigiri and seasonal veggies with walnut ssamjang dip.
Riff on pad Thai with Korean rice cakes.
HiFi’s menu is tidy. The must-try starter is the salmon nigiri. It’s nice, light, and taste. A great snack. There’s a burger on the menu. It’s a double-griddled patty made with beef from Slagel Family Farm, well seasoned and ground with short rib. It comes sliced with bacon in a shallow pool of comte fondue. These types of fondue burgers seem to be enjoying a popularity surge, and thanks to the pickles, this one is a winner.
Since our visit fell on a Wednesday, the bing bread — one of Parachute’s most beloved items, and a menu item of great consternation for the owners when it comes to labor and expenses — is back. The fabled items were removed from Parachute’s menu in 2022, but it’s back once a week at HiFi on Wednesday. It’s as good as fans will remember. Rice cakes get the deluxe treatment with a Thai tweak. The tteokbokki pad Thai — get it with shrimp — was stellar. The french fries, which come with banana ketchup, are also some of the better crispy spuds in town.
What to Drink: There’s not a huge N/A menu, but plenty of wine — Kim and Clark made an investment in good wine at Wherewithall, and it’s apparent that commitment has spilled over to their other projects. There is also a nice selection of sool and sake. House cocktails include the Whisky Apple made with Granny Smith apples, and the Blueberry Pancakes made with brown butter mezcal, blueberry maple, and egg.
Mind you, Kim says the menu has gone through some tweaks, so don’t be surprised to find a few changes.
The Verdict: Kim and Clark badly want to give Avondale something locals will appreciate. The execution of their food is high level — here’s another reminder that Parachute was a Michelin-star winner. It was early in the night, so I can’t be certain, but it feels like HiFi needs to let its hair down a little bit and embrace the bar side. Confidence comes with experience. For example, a recent visit to New Village Gastropub showed a much more energetic vibe inside a much larger suburban space. Parachute HiFi packs a lot inside a tiny footprint, and the restaurant was open only for a few weeks when I went. Once the crew stops playing it safe and leans into its weird side, HiFi could be a home run. For now, it’s an intriguing experiment in rebooting a dining destination into a casual haunt.
Gavroche, a modern French restaurant from Jason Chan — one of the city’s most beloved industry figures — debuts in Old Town. The narrow space has been transformed into a cozy, yet comfortable 32-seat restaurant with a chef’s counter. The counter won’t be activated immediately as Chan says he hopes to provide guests with an omakase-style option.
The chef’s counter service could include a la carte choices like hamachi nicoise, duo of foie gras, and turbot au four beurre blanc. Chan, who opened restaurants like Juno, Kitana, and Butter, says he scanned every menu from every French restaurant in Chicago. For the most part, they were the same, filled with classic fare. While Garvroche will honor the classics, Chan says there’s a new for contemporary cuisine to mimic what’s going on in Paris this minute. He’s brought on Mitchell Acuña to executive his vision. The chef is an alum of Boka, North Pond, and Sixteen. Chan is eager to see Acuña take chances and to give diners something they don’t expect. Chan tells Eater that Gavroche will either fill a nostalgic niche for customers who miss French haunts like Bistrot Margot — the French restaurant that closed nine years ago a few blocks south on Wells Street — or they’ll break new ground and draw a crowd excited to for something new.
Classic opera cake is among three desserts on the menu from star pastry chef Christine McCabe. Beyond working at Charlie Trotter’s, McCabe has started a few bakeries including the Glazed & Infused doughnut chain and Sugar Cube, a sweets stall collaboration with Chan out of Time Out Chicago Market food hall.
Chan says he isn’t done and has some ideas — perhaps a speakeasy-style bar that goes beyond just a gimmick entrance. For now, tour his latest and check out the menu. Old Town once more has a French restaurant, as Gavroche is open.
Gavroche, 1529 N. Wells Street, open 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily, except closed on Tuesday.
When Mike Schalau first launched Is/Was Brewing five years ago, a Redditor shared an image of the poster for the brewery’s release party with the note: “It’s a new project focusing on saison, so they’ll be making hazy IPAs in two weeks.”
The demand for hazies has since cooled, but the Redditor’s remark still resonates with Schallau.
“I’m not a petty person, but I saw that and I said to myself ‘hold my saison,’” he says.
Is/Was still hasn’t released anything but saisons, and drinkers can try six different versions of the French/Belgian style at their new taproom at 5121 N. Ravenwood Avenue., which opened in August. Schallau, who lives in Ravenswood and has been contract brewing from Begyle Brewing, says he’d been eyeing the Malt Row building since Urban Brew Labs closed in 2022.
The taproom is simply decorated with a colorful board on the exposed brick wall showing off the draft list. There are plenty of outlets in the curving booths to welcome locals who want to use the place for remote work along with a scattering of small tables and seats at the bar. A secondary space with room for 50 more is currently being used for overflow seating but Schallau is considering adding Skeeball or other fun activities.
Delicate, yeast-driven saisons were Schallau’s favorite style when he first started getting into beer while working at West Lakeview Liquors, a shop at Addison and Leavitt that specializes in imported brews. But when Schallau joined Pipeworks Brewing Company, he devoted himself to learning and drinking their preferred styles — hoppy IPAs with high ABV.
“As I went from an intern there to running all daily operations and overseeing recipe development, I’d kind of fallen out of love with making beer,” Schallau says. “I was kind of lost. Then I had a saison, La Vermontois, a collaboration between Belgian brewery Blaugies and Hill Farmstead in Vermont and I was like, ‘Ohh, I forgot. This is what I really fell in love with.’”
He began experimenting with what would become his flagship, Will Be, seeking to fill a void in the Chicago market while appealing to evolving tastes. Most of Is/Was’ beers are about 3.2 percent ABVs, topping out with a rare 6 or 6.5 percent.
“I think that a lot of craft beer drinkers are getting a little older and their palates are developing in a different way than when they wanted to drink super hoppy beers and really acidic kettle sours,” Schallau says. “Saison has these flavors that are really complex if you want to dive into what’s going on in the beer, or you can kind of crush a couple of them and they’ll be super satisfying and refreshing.”
The taproom shows off the style’s versatility by pouring Is/Was’ Will Be, Wisp smoked saison, and Saison Effyrayant — which is conditioned with fresh sage leaves — along with rotating pours developed in collaboration with other breweries including Revolution Brewing. Schalau plans to start making some other styles once his new production brewery is up and running in about a month. Until then, there’s a selection of six guest drafts including Goldfinger Brewing Company’s flagship lager and Hop Butcher For The World’s Snorkel Squad double IPA.
Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
“Instead of making a mediocre version (of a style), we’d rather get the best version from our world-class brewery friends,” Schallau said. “We want people who don’t like saison to have a good time.”
To that end, the brewery also serves Shacksbury Cider, Dark Matter nitro coffee, and a blackberry shrub prepared with Mick Klug Farms berries and housemade malt vinegar. Schalau would like to see the brewery become a third space for the neighborhood and while he doesn’t have a kitchen, he’s already hosted a popup with Motorshucker and arranged a 15% percent discount for customers who want to pick up a Detroit-style pie from Fat Chris’s Pizza and Such around the corner. He’s also planning on hosting makers markets to show off works made by his employees and artists the brewery works with.
Schallau says he’s been overwhelmed with the response to the opening, which brought lines out the door for nearly five hours.
“I spent most of the last five years (brewing beer) in a 600-square-foot room without windows and most of that time I was alone, wondering if anyone was drinking it or if anyone even really cared about this thing that I cared very deeply about,” he said. “It was a nice way to kind of physically manifest the fact that people had been paying attention. It was pretty emotional.”
Is/Was Brewing, 5121 N. Ravenswood Ave., open noon to 9 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday; noon to midnight on Friday and Saturday
Hirschpfeffer is essentially deer meat that’s been soaked in a marinade of red wine, vinegar, vegetables and spices to make it tender and less gamey. That same marinade is then used for the sauce, which is thickened with butter, flour and a bit of cocoa.
Lately, there’s been a rising tide of anger from so-called Chicago pizza purists who object to the term “tavern-style pizza.” The objections have coincided with the increased national popularity of the thin-crust pizza which is cut into squares and triangles. Even Pizza Hut has a Bizarro version.
Through these civic shenanigans, a 74-year-old Rogers Park pizzeria is trying to adapt to the times. Candlelite, founded in 1950, has established itself as one of the city’s most beloved spots for thin-crust pies. Instantly recognizable along Western Avenue for its neon sign, it’s become a pillar of the Loyola University community and is Sister Jean-approved. They’ve been selling frozen pizzas via Gold Belly and briefly opened a stall inside the Time Out Chicago Market food hall.
After looking at a few spots, the esteemed pizzeria is ready to open a second location this month, treading on rival DePaul University’s turf in Lincoln Park. Candlelite is partnering with the iO Theater, 1501 N. Kingsbury Street, taking over the comedy club’s food and drink service. Candlelite owner Pat Fowler says the theater’s co-owner, Larry Weiner, is a loyal customer in Rogers Park and floated the idea.
“It’s like having two businesses in one building — two iconic Chicago businesses,” Fowler says.
The bar will seat about 80 and be friendly to sports fans with games shown on TVs. A separate dining room — which will feel more like the original Candlelite — will seat an additional 100. They’ll also serve on two patios with 50- and 100-seat capacities. They’ve already redone the kitchens, bringing in conveyor-style pizza ovens, similar to the ones they have on Western.
Pizzas will be available during shows with servers bringing them to tables. The tables are smaller than traditional dining room tables, so Fowler and staff had to find the appropriate pizza stands to hold full-size pies while allowing room for drinks.
“What’s cool for us, from that standpoint, is iO is a destination, right?” Fowler says. “You know, people want to go to a show, and they’re willing to come from far away or nearby. So we’re able to draw from that.”
Candlelite has changed hands several times over seven decades, and Fowler — a former pizza delivery man who started in 2008 — purchased the business in 2012.
The original restaurant’s full menu — with burgers, sandwiches, and options for kids — will be available, and Fowler says they’re working on their beverage selections, hoping to potentially work with Off Color Brewing whose taproom is across the street. They’ll have some fun cocktails as Fowler reminds us that Candlelite’s famous neon sign features a martini. Speaking of the sign, crews in October will install a replica of the original outside the new restaurant. They’ve turned the sign into a logo, using it for their line of frozen pizzas.
In Rogers Park, Candelite has become a community icon and part of the Loyola Rambler community. Fowler wants to enjoy a tight relationship with the Lincoln Park area, even if that means cavorting with Loyola’s rivals at DePaul.
“I’ll either need Sister Jean’s permission or I’ll have to ask for forgiveness,” Fowler says with a laugh. “But we love supporting local so DePaul will definitely be something we want to incorporate openly with Sister Jean’s permission.”
Candlelite Lincoln Park, 1501 N. Kingsbury, planned for a mid-September opening.
In the urban-suburban trajectory, restaurants typically start in the city before making their way to smaller towns around it. Opening in early September, Petit Pomeroy reverse engineers that story as the smaller sibling to Winnetka’s Pomeroy, which opened in September 2021 on the North Shore.
“Pomeroy is the highest-grossing restaurant we have in Ballyhoo,” says Ryan O’Donnell, Ballyhoo founder and CEO. “The suburbs have been very good to us.”
Above Ballyhoo’s Gemini Grill, which opened earlier this year at upscale residences One Chicago in River North, Petit Pomeroy is one of four restaurants Ballyhoo Hospitality (Coda di Volpe, Old Pueblo Cantina, DeNucci’s, and Gemini among others) will be opening in the next seven months. The other three will be in suburban Highland Park and Glenview.
“When we were doing Gemini Grill, we retrofitted the second floor to be a restaurant, but we didn’t know what exactly,” O’Donnell says. “We wanted to see what was happening in the local dining scene and the landscape and figure out what would be best suited there.”
Classic French fare like roasted chicken are on the menu.Ballyhoo Hospitality
“Sometimes people can be intimidated by French food as they think it’s fine dining or heavy with lots of sauces,” O’Donnell says. “But bistro food is comfort food at its heart and core.”
While Pomeroy leans more into brasserie territory, Petit Pomeroy will be more of a classic French bistro. Petit Pomeroy is smaller in size (90 seats versus 280) and O’Donnell says the second-floor kitchen is about a quarter the size of Winnetka’s.
“We couldn’t do the big, expansive menu,” says O’Donnell. “We had to pare it down, which allowed us to focus on the greatest hits. It’s not a complete rinse and repeat, but we’re not going to change a lot of the stuff we do really well.”
The warm tomato tart with dried heirloom tomatoes, fromage blanc, and herbes de Provence inside a puff pastry shell made the move. “It might not be the most classic French thing in the world, but it’s been a big mover in Winnetka,” says O’Donnell.
Winnetka’s popular plats du jour are making the journey too, including top-seller short rib Bourguignon with pommes purée. “Last night we sold 48 in Winnetka,” says O’Donnell. Look for other French bistro classics, such as bouillabaisse and escargots.
Profiteroles Glacées with vanilla bean gelato and warm chocolate.Ballyhoo Hospitality
Beverages will follow a similar Gallic route with an emphasis on French wines, including sparking and Champagne, with cocktails such as the French 75, Le Spritz, and Le Pamplemousse.
For the interior, red leather banquettes and booths are paired with bistro-style chairs. Touches include brass railings, vintage posters, and wood paneling. A bar will seat eight. From its second-floor perch, views of Holy Name Cathedral across the street will be front and center.
“The drama of the room’s setting will surprise people,” says O’Donnell. “People don’t know what’s up on that second floor so I think that will be the big wow factor.”
Petit Pomeroy, 748 N. State Street, scheduled for a mid-September opening.
Two years ago, Westeros and Middle-earth went head-to-head in the streaming wars. After Amazon’s Prime Video set its release date for The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power—by all accounts the most expensive series ever made—HBO elected to have House of the Dragon, its first Game of Thrones spinoff, premiere two weeks prior to it. HBO’s decision to intentionally overlap with another big-budget fantasy show was, frankly, the sort of political maneuvering that would make Tyrion Lannister proud. As HBO’s CEO, Casey Bloys, cheekily told The Hollywood Reporter: “It’s nice we ended up being a couple weeks ahead of time.” (When you play the Game of Content, you win or you die.) From HBO’s side of things, the gambit worked: House of the Dragon had the biggest premiere in the network’s history, assuaging any concerns that Thrones’ lackluster ending would turn away fans. Prime Video, meanwhile, had to lick its wounds: Rings of Power reportedly had a 37 percent completion rate domestically, meaning that just over one-third of viewers ended up finishing the first season. Not terrible, but not what you want from the world’s priciest show, either.
By any measure, between these two series, House of the Dragon won the battle of the first seasons: It was more popular with audiences, earned more critical acclaim, and collected more Emmy nominations. But crafting a cultural juggernaut is a marathon, not a sprint, and House of the Dragon didn’t do itself any favors in Season 2. It’s not that the second season was without memorable moments—there was Rhaenys’s fateful death, Targaryen bastards being roasted alive by the dragon Vermithor, mud wrestling—but for a show built around the promise of a Targaryen civil war, it sure has … skimped in the war department. The finale merely shuffled pieces across the board and felt like a glorified teaser trailer for Season 3, which rubbed viewers the wrong way, especially since it will likely take another two years to air new episodes. That’s a long time to keep audiences waiting; expecting them to return in droves could prove to be a fatal miscalculation.
Could HBO’s loss be Prime Video’s gain? This time around, Rings of Power premieres without any direct competition. (No shade to HBO’s Industry, which is awesome, but Succession Presents: Euphoria is not the kind of show that threatens to take attention away from Middle-earth.) If Rings of Power is ever going to live up to its massive price tag, then the summer of 2024 might be its best shot to steal some of House of the Dragon’s thunder. Of course, that’s easier said than done, especially for a series that has yet to deliver on sky-high expectations.
A quick refresher: Rings of Power’s first season is set in the Second Age of Middle-earth, a period between the events of The Silmarillion and the Lord of the Rings trilogy. We follow the warrior elf Galadriel (Morfydd Clark), who believes that Sauron is lurking in the shadows, waiting for the right moment to seize power. (Other subplots include the harfoots, the predecessors of our beloved hobbits, befriending a mysterious wizard who may well be Gandalf the Gray, and the Southlands falling under attack by orcs before it’s decimated and transformed into Mordor.) By the end of the season, Galadriel discovers that her human companion Halbrand (Charlie Vickers) has been Sauron all along, ingratiating himself to the elves in order to forge—wait for it—rings of power that would allow him to bend the myriad inhabitants of Middle-earth to his will.
Rings of Power was far from perfect out of the gate, but the mystery surrounding Sauron’s true identity was—for this writer, at least—more than enough to stick through the first season. (That, and the show’s outrageous production values offer a winning combination of gorgeous New Zealand landscapes and state-of-the-art visual effects.) But now that Sauron’s been unmasked, Rings of Power finds itself in a potentially precarious position. The Dark Lord is one of the most iconic villains in fantasy, but much of that intrigue lies in how little the audience knows about him. With the exception of The Fellowship of the Ring’s kick-ass prologue sequence, Sauron is mostly a supernatural presence, taking the form of a giant, disembodied eye in Mordor. Going all in on Sauron in Rings of Power could end up diluting the villain’s potency, like if Disney green-lit a hypothetical Star Wars origin story for Emperor Palpatine’s early days on Naboo.
For better or for worse, Rings of Power opts to lean into the Sauron of it all. The first 20 minutes of the Season 2 premiere give us an extensive backstory on the Dark Lord: how he tried to get the orcs to join his cause before the corrupted elf Adar (Sam Hazeldine) betrayed him, the arduous process of Sauron’s malevolent spirit taking on a new form (Sauron: Halbrand Edition), the decisions that led him to cross paths with Galadriel. This is a strange point of comparison—my brain is a curse—but everything about Sauron’s origins reminded me of Longlegs: The movie worked better when it coasted on sinister vibes, rather than attempting to explain everything about its eponymous serial killer. The same is true for Rings of Power: When Sauron is lurking in the shadows, your mind fills in the blanks; conversely, when the show feeds the audience too much information, he just seems like a weirdo obsessed with jewelry, like Middle-earth’s version of Howard Ratner.
For much of the second season, Sauron resides in the elven kingdom of Eregion, coaxing the famed smith Celebrimbor (Charles Edwards) into kicking off a chain of events that could lead to Middle-earth’s demise. (Prime Video has forbidden me from getting more specific, but anyone with a passing knowledge of The Fellowship of the Ring’s prologue can connect the dots.) The dynamic between Celebrimbor and Sauron—taking on a new identity as Annatar, the Lord of Gifts—is among the more interesting work of the season, underlining that the Dark Lord’s greatest strength is his fiendish powers of persuasion. (“The road to hell is paved with good intentions” is Season 2 in a nutshell.) At the same time, Sauron’s grand designs are too one-dimensional to warrant this much screen time. Instead, Rings of Power would’ve been better served pulling a Leftovers and letting the mystery be.
Unfortunately, spending too much time with Sauron is the least of the show’s issues. A persistent problem for Rings of Power—one that’s even more pronounced this season—is that much of the ensemble isn’t up to snuff. In Thrones’ heyday, the series could bounce around Westeros and audiences would be hooked by most (if not all) of its subplots, led by the likes of Daenerys Targaryen, Jon Snow, Cersei Lannister, and Arya Stark. Rings of Power simply doesn’t have a deep enough bench of intriguing characters to lean on: We get frequent check-ins with Isildur (Maxim Baldry) and the Stranger (Daniel Weyman), yet I could sum up their arcs for the entire season in a single sentence. (The Stranger also has possibly the dumbest origin story for a character’s name since Han Solo.)
What’s more, while Rings of Power puts a lot of money on the screen, the decision to move the production from New Zealand to the United Kingdom has proved to be ill-fated. Without the former’s natural landscapes, the world of Middle-earth feels more confined and narrow in scope. Whatever the reason for the switch—budgetary concerns, new locales—the gambit didn’t pay off. And with the show’s narrative taking its sweet time to progress—cocreators J.D. Payne and Patrick McKay envision a five-season road map—Rings of Power draws unwanted comparisons to House of the Dragon’s second season: It’s taking far too long to get going, and by the time the characters get somewhere interesting, viewers will have to wait years for the payoff. (Assuming audiences want to return to Middle-earth in the first place.)
Given all the bad-faith criticisms of Rings of Power, I take no pleasure in the show’s sophomore slump. With all the money Amazon’s poured into Rings of Power, you’d like to think there’s still time to right the ship and that news of a Season 3 renewal will be a matter of when, not if. But with viewership not hitting the levels desired from such an expensive series, particularly one earmarked to be the “next Game ofThrones,” one has to wonder whether even a financial juggernaut like Amazon would consider cutting its losses. (Plus, the company will soon have competition from Warner Bros. with a Lord of the Rings anime movie and a Gollum stand-alone film.) For now, Rings of Power is stuck in a predicament not unlike Middle-earth as Sauron amasses power, where even the best intentions might not be enough to prevent a doomed future.
Callie and Juliet are back with big announcements! First, they share their shock that Molly-Mae and Tommy Fury broke up, before discussing the new Ringer Reality TV YouTube channel (02:37)! They get into hometowns, starting off with Jeremy’s date to Stew Leonard’s (09:31) and Marcus’s lack of a date (13:00). They agree that Devin’s running date would be their worst nightmare (22:05) and get excited over Grant being the new Bachelor (30:00). They make their predictions for the end before discussing all of the couples in Love Is Blind UK, starting with Jasmine’s mom (35:35) and Maria’s high expectations from Tom (49:52)!
Thor is associated with Offbrand Games, publisher of Rivals 2. As Thor confirmed on stream Rivals 2 will be an always-online live-service game. Stop Killing Games is a conflict of interest for him. That’s it. That is the real reason he is so against it. And sure, he will try to act all high and mighty, but still it’s just ******** he made up, while the true reason is this: he left Blizzard, but Blizzard didn’t leave him. He is a corporate shill and the mask is off.