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  • Burning Questions for the Most Uncertain Oscar Race in Years

    Burning Questions for the Most Uncertain Oscar Race in Years

    Matt is joined by New York Times awards season reporter Kyle Buchanan to preview the 2024-25 Oscar race now that the table is mostly set. Kyle sets the table for a fascinating Oscar season—one without a clear front-runner like Oppenheimer was last year—and highlights the biggest narratives that have emerged, including the movies with the strongest momentum, early 2024 films that could make a last-second surge, and other burning questions (02:09). Matt finishes the show with a prediction about the MLB playoffs (28:28).

    For a 20 percent discount on Matt’s Hollywood insider newsletter, What I’m Hearing …, click here.

    Email us your thoughts! thetown@spotify.com

    Host: Matt Belloni
    Guest: Kyle Buchanan
    Producers: Craig Horlbeck and Jessie Lopez
    Theme Song: Devon Renaldo

    Subscribe: Spotify

    Matthew Belloni

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  • Middle Brow Will Open a Second Location in Michigan

    Middle Brow Will Open a Second Location in Michigan

    Middle Brow, the Chicago brewpub that earned a James Beard Award earlier this year as a semifinalist for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program, is opening a second location in Michigan. Ownership is keeping the exact address a secret, but say they’ve signed a lease to take over a space off Red Arrow Highway in Sawyer, Michigan, about 50 miles west of Downtown Chicago. Sawyer is along Lake Michigan and is a popular tourist destination. Co-owner Pete Ternes says they’ll take over a one-acre plot where customers can enjoy the outdoors.

    “We’ve got the drawings done, and we’ve got a lot of the engineering work done,” Ternes says. “We’re putting out bids and getting permitting in place now. We think that by summer, we’ll be able to — you know, at the very least — throw some fun parties.”

    First established as a brewery in 2011, Middle Brow would open a brewpub in Logan Square, Bungalow by Middle Brow, and offer pastries, bread, and eventually Neapolitan pizzas, and those pies deployed farm fresh ingredients from Michigan, Indiana, Wisconsin, and Indiana. By relying on a farm where they’ll grow their own hops, barley, and other ingredients, the unnamed Michigan Middle Brow project takes a hyperlocal strategy to procure ingredients.

    With lighter lagers, saisons, and kolsches the brewery features the kind of brews that drinkers could enjoy while camping or by a lake, a kind of counterpoint to over-hopped beers that were once trendy. Middle Brow centers on yeast-forward beers and letting yeast ferment spontaneously: “It’s exciting and it’s weird and it’s risky, and it makes the beer taste like nothing else you’ve tasted,” Ternes says.

    Last year, Middle Brow expanded operations becoming Chicago’s first natural winery with refreshing wines that, again, shared the same commitment to using wild fermentation. Natural wine is made with minimal intervention that, in theory, better showcases the grapes from the region.

    Ternes promises the new location will contain elements of the Logan Square venue. There might be a small menu of fresh breads for the weekend, and doughnuts and ice cream. Middle Brow Logan Square offers Chicago-style tavern pizza on Tuesdays. Those pizzas won’t make their way to Michigan, but Middle Brow may offer Detroit-style squares as a limited special. Beyond bottles and cans of wine and beer, they’ll also have robust to-go offerings for travelers making a quick pit stop.

    Much of Middle Brow’s wines were made from grapes grown in Michigan with ownership often hauling tanks of juice back to Chicago in trucks filled with tanks. Middle Brow already has ties to the Mitten State. Ternes points out they buy hops from Hop Head Farms, which is about 50 miles south of Grand Rapids, Michigan. They also source fruit for various barrel-aging projects from nearby farms. Ternes recalls family vacations in Michigan City, Indiana; and Michiana, Michigan. The concept of farmhouse brewing, using hops and barley made on the same premises, was pioneered by companies like Allagash in Portland, Maine; and Jester King in Austin, Texas. Those breweries inspired Ternes and Middle Brow.

    Middle Brow searched for the right land but knew when they needed a record of success before investors and banks would fund their operations. Fourteen years later they’re in the position to open the way they intended.

    Middle Brow Sawyer, Michigan planned for a summer opening

    Ashok Selvam

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  • The Definitive Ranking of Clowns

    The Definitive Ranking of Clowns

    Here at The Ringer, Megan Schuster and I have spent years ranking things like movie monsters, sharks, and dinosaurs, all of which have a reputation for terrifying people. But we’ve never had a task as daunting as putting together a list of what are arguably the single-scariest figures in pop culture: clowns.

    In real life, clowns are meant to entertain children at birthday parties and circuses —to spread joy with laughter. In pop culture, however, clowns are primarily depicted as nefarious figures who torment and kill people. In fact, the biggest challenge while coming up with this ranking was trying to find good pop culture clowns. (Spoiler alert: It was slim pickings out there.) No wonder as much as 42 percent of Americans have at least a minor case of coulrophobia.

    Unfortunately, this ranking will not help the public perception of clowns as nightmare fuel—this exercise even led to many sleepless nights for your intrepid bloggers. (Clown-related trauma will be brought up at my next performance review.) Before we get to the ranking, a quick overview of the criteria: We capped the list at 30 entries, and if there were multiple interpretations of a character, they’d be roped together—also known as the Joker Clause.

    All right, Megan, time to send in the clowns. —Miles Surrey

    30. John Wayne Gacy

    Surrey: In the many years Megan and I have been doing these rankings, there’s never been an easier call to make for last place. One of America’s most notorious serial killers, John Wayne Gacy was responsible for 33 confirmed murders around Chicago, where he also performed at children’s parties as Pogo the Clown. (Remind me to never hire a clown for my nephew’s future birthdays.) Gacy’s atrocities have been covered in docuseries (Conversations With a Killer: The John Wayne Gacy Tapes) and film adaptations (Gacy), and there’s no escaping the fact that one of the reasons he’s received a ton of media attention is because he moonlighted as, of all things, a clown. Professional clowns already have to deal with bad PR from all the sinister characters in fiction; Gacy turned those fears into a terrifying reality.

    Schuster: The first time we’ve ever had a serial killer in these rankings—what a massive, horrible milestone.

    29. Happy Slappy, Air Bud

    Schuster: Happy Slappy’s real name (at least in the Air Bud–verse) is Norman Snively, and let me just say, the movie’s writers couldn’t have come up with a more appropriate moniker. Norman is a sniveling, creepy man who’s abusive to his dog, cruel to children, and all around a pretty terrible clown. He’s Buddy the golden retriever’s first owner, but after the dog embarrasses him at a children’s birthday party, Norman tries to drop him off at the pound. Snively only tries to get Buddy back once the dog has achieved local TV stardom for his play on the basketball court.

    Fortunately for all involved, Buddy winds up staying with Josh and his family; Norman is arrested; and, god willing, no one ever has to see the clown ever again. Though I admit I’ll continue to think about this thread from Norman’s Disney wiki page, in which someone earnestly asks, “If Norman hates being a clown, why can’t he just quit the job and find something else to do?”

    Surrey: This is the problem with getting a bachelor’s degree from a clown college.

    28. Jangles the Clown, Inside Out

    Surrey: A child’s mind is a place like no other, which Inside Out conceptualizes as a trippy workplace where different emotions take turns running the show. When Joy and Sadness enter a chamber containing the darkest fears of 11-year-old Riley, they encounter tree-sized stalks of broccoli and—gasp!—grandma’s vacuum cleaner. But the scariest sight of all is Jangles, a clown who traumatized Riley at her third birthday party and has been reimagined as a hulking, kooky monster. Jangles is the perfect embodiment of an irrational childhood fear, and in true Pixar fashion, he’s also got a wagon:

    Disney/Pixar

    Don’t shoot the messenger—I’m just calling it like it is!

    Schuster: Pixar, and Ross and Rachel’s kid in Friends: all about the ass.

    27. Binky the Clown, Garfield

    Schuster: In the Garfield comic extended universe, Binky the Clown is known for being loud and obnoxious and for having possibly the worst timing ever. In fact, in the show Garfield and Friends, Binky has a segment titled “Screaming With Binky,” in which his sole purpose is to disrupt situations that require precise movement or masterful concentration by screaming his signature catchphrase, “Hey kids!”

    Binky isn’t a particularly substantive character in either the original comic or the TV show—he’s more of a running bit, à la Itchy and Scratchy in The Simpsons. (Jon could be seen drinking out of a Binky the Clown mug at times, and Garfield once competed in a game show called “Name That Fish” that Binky hosted. Sidenote: how is “Name That Fish” not already a network show?) But Binky frequently serves as a comedic foil to Garfield, which is enough to get him on the list.

    26. Doink the Clown, WWF

    Schuster: Doink the Clown went through a number of iterations during his time in the World Wrestling Federation (now WWE). He was originally played by Matt Borne as a technically proficient heel—a sad-clown character who squirted children with fake flowers, attacked opponents with prosthetic limbs, and used tripwire in some of his many pranks. But over time Doink went through an evolution, and in later years he could be seen showing a kinder side: making children smile and teaming up with a miniature version of himself named Dink to battle WWE’s infamous villains.

    Sadly, though, after Matt Borne’s death in 2013, his family filed a wrongful death lawsuit against WWE claiming that the culture of the sport led Borne to suffer “illnesses and injuries, including depression and drug abuse, which ultimately resulted in his untimely death.” The lawsuit was eventually dismissed in a U.S. district court, and Doink is only sporadically portrayed these days by other wrestlers on the independent circuit.

    25. Captain Spaulding, Rob Zombie’s Filmography

    Surrey: There are two things you need to know about Rob Zombie movies: He will put his wife in every single one of them, and they’re gonna feature some seriously fucked-up characters. One such figure is Captain Spaulding, the proprietor of a dinky gas station and roadside attraction who first appears in House of 1000 Corpses. Named after a Groucho Marx character and played by the late Sid Haig, Spaulding is, in Zombie’s own words, a “lovable asshole,” which is, uh, certainly one way to describe a sadistic killer caked in clown makeup. To quote a gas station robber moments before Spaulding blows his head off: “I hate clowns.” Hard agree.

    24. Loonette, The Big Comfy Couch

    Schuster: Millennials, this blurb is for you. If you, like me, were a child and a PBS viewer in the mid-’90s, then you may remember The Big Comfy Couch and, more specifically, the clown (Loonette) and her doll (Molly) who hosted it. Now, I’ll admit that I’m fuzzy on many of the show’s finer details—was it just … about a couch that was comfy? Why did a clown need to host it? And what was the deal with said clown’s Wicked Witch of the East stockings?—but I will always vividly remember trying to re-create Loonette’s clock stretch on the floor of my living room. (Spoiler alert: It never went well. And yes, I did try it again just before writing this.)

    23. Circus Clowns From Dumbo

    Schuster: It’s wild how many clowns on this list are cruel to animals. The clowns in Dumbo, for example, are largely silent creatures, but they humiliate Dumbo during a circus performance in which a clown dresses like Dumbo’s mother and encourages the elephant to jump out a window. Dumbo is hesitant at first, but another clown comes up from behind him and smacks him with a plank, forcing him to fall into a tub of random goop.

    Dumbo eventually gets one over on the clowns in the end by flying and sending their whole routine into chaos—serves you right, jerks!—but this crew gives circus performers a bad name.

    22. “Crazy” Joe Davola, Seinfeld

    Surrey: Seinfeld is many things; scary isn’t one of them. But the six-episode arc of “Crazy” Joe Davola, an unhinged writer who blames Jerry for his script being rejected by NBC, feels like something out of Mindhunter. When Elaine unwittingly dates Joe and visits his apartment, she discovers an entire wall of photos he’s taken of her—including when she’s showered. (Unsurprisingly, Elaine pepper-sprays Joe and gets the hell out of there.) Later, Joe dresses up as Pagliacci, beats the crap out of some hooligans in Central Park, and reminds Kramer of his childhood fear of clowns. For a network sitcom, it’s genuinely freaky stuff. This is what my sleep paralysis demon would look like if I turned on the lights:

    Castle Rock Entertainment

    21. Flunky the Clown, Late Night With David Letterman

    Schuster: Flunky was a depressed, chain-smoking clown who first showed up on Late Night With David Letterman in 1985 to help Dave answer viewer letters. In his original appearance, the clown is described as the “flunkie who actually reads these letters for Dave”—only for viewers to be introduced to a literal clown backstage played by longtime Letterman writer Jeff Martin. In the letter, Dave is asked whether the author (who also goes by Jeff!) should go to Europe for the summer. Flunky responds: “Yeah, I got some advice. Don’t go to Europe, Jeff, stay in school or you’ll wind up like me, a pathetic old clown reading somebody else’s mail.”

    Good advice for us all!

    20. Laughing Clown From Happy Gilmore

    Schuster: Deep into the greatest movie of all time, a.k.a. Happy Gilmore, our titular protagonist is struggling with his short game. Who among us can relate? So Happy’s intrepid golf coach, Chubbs Peterson, takes him to Happy Land, a miniature golf spot that looks cute and fun on the outside but is actually filled with impossible holes designed to break your will to live. There, Happy knocks a ball over a fence, breaks various signage, and disappoints Lee Trevino. And that’s all before he squares off against The Clown.

    I’d like to think all of us have been personally victimized by a mini golf hole at one point or another in our lives. But more than 20 years after seeing this movie for the first time, I’m still haunted by this clown’s laugh.

    Honestly, “You’re gonna die, clown!” is probably the nicest thing Happy could have said in that moment.

    Surrey: I have a clown question, bro: How do you even get past this hole? Happy was putting perfectly and the clown kept closing its mouth on the ball. I’m all for obstacles, but this clown ruined the sanctity of one of America’s great pastimes.

    19. Jack, Jack in the Box fast food chain

    Surrey: I had no idea a fast food mascot could have fascinating lore, but the titular Jack of Jack in the Box has been through it. In the ’80s, Jack’s clown head was blown up in a commercial in which a sweet old lady shouts “Waste him!” in a truly deranged bit of marketing. (Considering the decade, I can only assume ad executives everywhere were tripped out on certain … substances.) However, when Jack in the Box’s reputation took a hit from an E. coli outbreak in the ’90s, Jack was rebranded as the “CEO” of the company and sought revenge against those who’d wronged him. Jack walked so Heath Ledger’s Joker could run:


    I’m not sure committing domestic terrorism is a great way to promote fast food, but I’m invested all the same. Megan, just imagine what Jack would do to his employees if they unionized.

    Schuster: I like that the rebrand is supposed to make him seem more competent, and then in the end the suit just makes him look like a knockoff Patrick Bateman. Oh, to be a fly on the wall of that ad agency.

    18. Homey D. Clown, In Living Color

    Schuster: Homey D. Clown was an incredible invention from In Living Color. The character, played by Damon Wayans from 1990 to 1994, is on a prison work release program where he is forced to clown for children—all while getting his thoughts out about “Whitey” and The Man. Rather than my trying to explain the full magic of Homey, I think we’d be better served by reading and hearing a collection of some of his best quotes.

    Obviously there’s his signature catch phrase: “Homey don’t play that.” But there’s so much more. During a birthday party episode hosted at “Home E. Cheese,” Homey welcomes the group to a place “where a kid can be a kid—unless he gets on my damn nerves.” Then there’s the time he stars in a commercial for “Homey Wheats” cereal: “So remember, little childrens, do what The Man says: Go out and buy yourself a box of new Homey Wheats, the only cereal made from cookies, marshmallows, sugar cubes, and other nutritional pieces of candy.” And finally, there’s the episode where he’s reunited with his son, Homey Jr., and sings him this lullaby:

    17. Twisty the Clown, American Horror Story: Freak Show

    Surrey: I was already conditioned to be freaked out by John Carroll Lynch thanks to Zodiac, where he played the man suspected—but never proved—to be the infamous serial killer. But then Ryan Murphy cast Lynch on American Horror Story and had him looking like this:

    FX

    Even in a ranking consisting (mostly) of clowns that’ll keep you up at night, Twisty’s appearance is no laughing matter.

    16. Sweet Tooth, Twisted Metal

    Surrey: There are a lot of unsavory characters you’d want to avoid in the postapocalyptic wasteland of Peacock’s Twisted Metal, but Sweet Tooth takes the cake. With a clown mask, the body of professional wrestler Samoa Joe, and the disarming voice of Will Arnett, Sweet Tooth is nothing if not unique: a chaos agent who gleefully kills people as often as he invites them to attend his one-man show in the ruins of Las Vegas. (True to his name, Sweet Tooth also drives an ice cream truck.) For what it’s worth, if we put together a Royal Rumble and threw all the pop culture clowns into the ring, my money’s on this guy.


    15. Fizbo, Modern Family

    Schuster: One of the best scenes of Modern Family is the introduction to Fizbo. It’s midway through Season 1: Luke is having a birthday party, and Cameron oh so innocently asks whether a clown will be performing.

    Cam’s told that no, there won’t be that kind of entertainment at the party. And Mitchell begs Cam to let it go, saying that if Luke wanted a clown, his parents would have already hired one. But as Cam stares at himself in the mirror and gets ready to celebrate his nephew’s big day, he can’t help himself. He whips out the makeup, puts on a red nose, and says, “Hello, old friend.” Enter Fizbo, the attention-seeking clown.

    From there, things take a twist. Fizbo threatens a man who was rude to Mitchell at a gas station; unintentionally terrorizes Phil, Luke’s dad, who has a previously undisclosed fear of clowns; and eventually saves the day via a cake delivery to the hospital where Luke ends up due to a rogue escaped scorpion. Fizbo may not have been properly appreciated in his time, but we support him—one of the actually nice, benevolent clowns on this list.

    14. Clown Doll, Poltergeist

    Surrey: Before malevolent spirits attack the Freeling family in Poltergeist, viewers will notice a clown doll kept in the children’s bedroom. This is its face:

    MGM Studios

    You don’t need to be a horror movie expert to understand that this thing is bad news, and sure enough, the possessed doll ends up attacking little Robbie Freeling. (The clown’s cheery smile also turns into an evil grin, which absolutely traumatized me as a child.) In fact, the image of Poltergeist’s sinister clown is so iconic that the 2015 remake led with it in the promotional material. One could say Poltergeist’s marketing wasn’t … clowning around. Sorry, I’ll see myself out.

    Schuster: How dare you, Miles; we all know clowns aren’t things to jest about.

    13. Buggy the Clown, One Piece

    Surrey: In the fantastical world of One Piece, the popular pirate manga recently adapted into a live-action series on Netflix, there are “devil fruits” that, if ingested, give someone special abilities. The show’s protagonist, aspiring pirate king Monkey D. Luffy, can stretch his body à la Mr. Fantastic; meanwhile, one of the first villains introduced in the series, Buggy the Clown, is able to split his body into pieces. (Like all the major characters in One Piece, Buggy is a pirate … who just so happens to dress like a clown.) As you’d expect, having Luffy and Buggy square off using their respective powers—one guy stretching like a giant stick of gum, the other intentionally turning himself into sashimi—makes for cartoonishly entertaining television. A favorite of One Piece creator Eiichiro Oda, Buggy captures the series’ offbeat tone in a nutshell: a little bit goofy, a little bit disturbing, and unlike anything you’ve seen before.

    12. Zeebo the Clown, Are You Afraid of the Dark?

    Schuster: This may be a good place to explicitly disclose that I am a journalist and have a massive phobia of clowns. (A conflict of interest, you say? Too bad!) Zeebo the Clown is a big reason why. I mean, LOOK AT THIS:

    Nickelodeon Productions

    Not only is he a terrifying figure, but he also had the crypto-bro eyes before that was even a thing. Hardest possible pass.

    Surrey: It happened to me: I’ve laid my eyes on Zeebo, and now I’m afraid of the dark.

    11. Pagliacci

    Schuster: The Pagliacci meme has been around for decades—and its roots can be traced back to the 1800s. For those unfamiliar, the meme stems from the story of a man who goes to see a doctor because he’s depressed. The doctor’s suggested treatment? “The great clown Pagliacci is in town tonight. Go and see him! That should sort you out.” The man then bursts into tears and responds: “But doctor, I am Pagliacci.”

    The story was referenced by a number of comedians after Robin Williams’s death in 2014. But the meme took on a life of its own in 2022—to the point that Wired wrote a detailed story about it. Over time, the meme has spawned many new iterations on social media. For example:

    MAN: I’m depressed

    DOCTOR: ok we can try lexapro

    MAN: hmm I was hoping more for like a clown recommendation?

    Another one says: “Man goes to see Pagliacci, goes backstage. Tells Pagliacci he thought the show would cheer him up, but he’s still depressed. Pagliacci says, ‘Oh well I’m just a silly clown. Shouldn’t you go see a real doctor?’ Man bursts into tears. Says, ‘But Pagliacci,”

    The meme isn’t quite as prevalent today, but for nearly a decade, the sad clown was an important internet reference point.

    Surrey: But Megan, how could you omit the greatest Pagliacci reference of them all?

    I may or may not have spent years doing a Rorschach impression because of this. It may or may not have gone down well with my (former) friends.

    10. Art the Clown, Terrifier

    Surrey: You have to be a sick bastard to seek out the Terrifier movies, so naturally … I have. For the uninitiated, the Terrifier franchise follows the twisted exploits of Art: a psychopathic, potentially unkillable clown who revels in finding increasingly creative ways to murder people. The deaths in Terrifier 2 were so gruesome that people apparently vomited and fainted during screenings, which didn’t stop the movie from becoming one of the greatest indie success stories of 2022. (For any curious sickos out there, here’s a link to one of Art’s most iconic kills; be warned, it’s gnarly.)

    Art has done for on-screen deaths what Stephen Curry’s 3-point shooting has done for basketball: He’s changed the game. The Christmas-themed Terrifier 3 is set to come out later this month, and if Art continues to one-up himself in the killing department, we’ll have to consider moving him up the rankings. Seriously, Megan, we have to. I really don’t want to get on his bad side.

    Schuster: Can’t believe we got a Steph Curry comp in a piece about clowns. Honestly, bravo to us.

    9. Bozo the Clown

    Schuster: “The World’s Most Famous Clown” came into existence in the 1940s; by the late 1950s, the character himself had become a franchise and was appearing in television markets across the United States. Bozo became a touchpoint for a number of future TV clowns, and he was even the inspiration for Ronald McDonald—fun fact: The first Ronald McDonald was played by Willard Scott, who’d previously played Bozo on WRC-TV in Washington, D.C. (More on Ronald later!)

    8. Killer Klowns, Killer Klowns From Outer Space

    Surrey: I mean, the title speaks for itself. Probably the only film in existence that could be described as “clownsploitation,” Killer Klowns From Outer Space is set in a small town that gets invaded by—wait for it—extraterrestrial clowns who capture humans for sustenance. The killer klowns have all the (circus) tricks in the book: cotton candy cocoons, balloon bloodhounds, pies apparently made out of sulfuric acid, and popcorn guns. They might not be nearly as scary as some of the other clowns on this list, but the killer klowns endure as B-movie royalty. (Be sure to check out Killer Klowns From Outer Space: The Game, and yes, that is a real thing.) Also, they’ve got a theme song that has no reason to go this hard.

    No joke, I’d put this on my wedding playlist.

    7. Ronald McDonald

    Schuster: As ubiquitous as the golden arches themselves, Ronald McDonald has become a worldwide fast food icon. The hair; the yellow jumpsuit; his crew of Grimace, the Hamburglar, and Mayor McCheese—these are all things many of us have been exposed to since we were children running around in PlayPlaces.

    Now, whether it’s a positive thing that a clown has lured children into consuming fast food is certainly something we could discuss. (Seeing an image of Ronald McDonald still makes me crave a Happy Meal, like I’m one of Pavlov’s dogs.) I suppose we could just pretend that millions of us haven’t been conditioned over the years by a multibillion-dollar corporation. Yeah, let’s go with option no. 2.

    Surrey: Is it just me, or has McDonald’s marketing basically abandoned Ronald and his crew? I’m worried this is a Five Nights at Freddy’s situation just waiting to happen. (To be clear: would watch a horror movie about Ronald taking out McDonald’s executives—and a crossover with Jack from Jack in the Box.)

    6. Insane Clown Posse

    Surrey: I have only nice things to say about Insane Clown Posse—because I’d hate to incur the wrath of the Juggalos. Great hip-hop duo, totally normal clown gimmick. Crank up that “Boogie Woogie Wu.”

    5. Harley Quinn

    Surrey: Going back to her first appearance in Batman: The Animated Series in the early ’90s, Harley Quinn has long served as the sidekick and love interest of the Joker—a worthy supporting player, but one who’s always ceded the spotlight to the Clown Prince of Crime. But one of the (few) good things about the 21st century’s superhero boom is that it’s allowed Harley to become a star in her own right. On the big screen, Margot Robbie has memorably inhabited the character in the DC Extended Universe (RIP), bringing a chaotic, charismatic energy to everything from fight scenes to a romantic montage with a fictional South American dictator. (Lady Gaga’s Harley has big shoes to fill in Joker: Folie à Deux.)

    Not to be outdone, Max’s Harley Quinn animated series is a hilarious love letter to the Batman universe, full of misunderstood villains just looking for acceptance—title character included. (Season 5 can’t come soon enough.) Even as superhero fatigue sets in, the strongest endorsement I can give to Harley is that her antics are never tiresome. What can I say? When she’s not snapping femurs, Harley just knows how to hit your funny bone.

    4. Krusty the Clown, The Simpsons

    Schuster: Here is a brief (or not so brief) list of some of my favorite Krusty the Clown plotlines on The Simpsons. In no particular order:

    • The time he’s investigated for tax fraud and fakes his own death by crashing his plane into a mountain, only to return after Bart reminds him that he’s “more respected than all the scientists, doctors, and educators in the country put together.”
    • The time he offers up Kamp Krusty as a summer getaway for kids, only to allow it to be run into the ground to the point that the kids are starving, they revolt against the authoritarian counselors, and Krusty is forced to make amends—by taking everyone on a trip to Tijuana.
    • The running bit where Krusty will endorse anything so long as it pads his bottom line.
    • The time he has an Alaskan timberwolf on his show and is told the wolf is spooked by loud noises. “Loud?” Krusty shouts. “That’s our secret word for the day!” The wolf goes on to maul Bart before losing in a fight to Groundskeeper Willie.
    • The time Bart becomes Mr. Burns’s heir and the two pay Krusty $400 to deliver them a pizza while his show is scheduled to go live; Krusty airs a rerun, saying “no one will know the difference,” only for it to be the episode where Krusty talks about the Falkland Islands being invaded.

    Fox

    Krusty forever.

    3. Charlie Chaplin

    Schuster: Charlie Chaplin didn’t clown in the way many of us are used to. He didn’t have a crazy wig, or a red nose, or a flower that squirted water into unsuspecting faces. Rather, his character, the one he played throughout his silent films, was much more simple—but no less effective. “That character wore the same baggy pants, the same black hair and knotted suspenders, in a 1914 skating rink as it did on a 1936 assembly line,” wrote Alistair Cooke in a 1939 edition of The Atlantic. “In the intervals between a score of pictures, the same cracked boots have been preserved in ether. Chaplin’s creation is a clown, and like that of all clowns his make-up is ageless.”

    The makeup was indeed ageless, as was Chaplin himself. His legacy in the world of clowning remains strong.

    2. Pennywise, It (2017)

    Surrey: The titular monster of Stephen King’s It has existed for millions of years, can shapeshift into any form, manipulates reality, and preys on its victims’ worst fears. So what does it say about our collective coulrophobia that this ancient, primordial evil spends most of its time as … a clown?

    Pennywise is responsible for the most memorable moments in It, including the opening scene, in which the monster goads little Georgie Denbrough into sticking his hand down a sewer drain before chomping down on it. Pennywise draws power from the fear of its victims; as a reader (and viewer), it’s easy to understand why the creature has successfully terrorized Derry, Maine, for centuries. I mean, who wouldn’t be scared shitless if a grimy sewer clown was making eye contact with you from across the street?

    Warner Bros.

    The good news is that, for all its supernatural abilities, Pennywise does have a fatal weakness. In It: Chapter Two, the Losers Club defeats Pennywise by confronting their innermost fears and belittling it as “just a clown.” That’s right, Pennywise suffered death by shit talking. Kids, take note: Bullying works.

    Schuster: I know who I’m seeking out if I’m ever confronted by Pennywise: the teens. Save me, Gen Z!

    1. The Joker

    Surrey: Is anyone surprised? One of the greatest villains of all time, the Joker has spent decades as a cultural phenomenon, which has been bolstered by the many talented actors—and also Jared Leto—who’ve played him. He’s the ultimate foil to Batman, and what’s most unsettling about the Joker is how many iterations of the character are nihilistic, unpredictable agents of chaos. The Joker cannot be reasoned with, and you can’t appeal to his humanity. He is, to paraphrase The Dark Knight’s Alfred Pennyworth, someone who just wants to watch the world burn.

    Really, putting the Joker at the top of the clown ranking was a no-brainer; the bigger debate to be had is which actor has given us the best version of him. Cesar Romero was a campy icon, Jack Nicholson set the standard for comic book villains, Mark Hamill is the definitive Joker in the world of animation, and Joaquin Phoenix has an Oscar and the second-highest-grossing R-rated movie on his résumé. But for all these worthy contenders (and also Jared Leto), it’s tough to compete with Heath Ledger, whose Oscar-winning performance in The Dark Knight managed to be menacing and mesmerizing in equal measure. (See: the pencil trick.)

    No matter how many times the character is revived, we can’t seem to get enough of the Joker terrorizing the innocent civilians of Gotham—and so the cycle continues with Joker: Folie à Deux. As a result, the Joker isn’t just a mainstay in popular culture: He always gets the last laugh.

    Miles Surrey

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  • Hirschpfeffer with Spätzle, Marroni and Rotkraut

    Hirschpfeffer with Spätzle, Marroni and Rotkraut

    My dinner today, it was delicious.

    Hirschpfeffer with Spätzle, Marroni and Rotkraut. My dinner today, it was delicious. Hirschpfeffer is essentially deer meat that's been soaked in a marinade of

    Hirschpfeffer is essentially deer meat that’s been soaked in a marinade of red wine, vinegar, vegetables and spices to make it tender and less gamey. That same marinade is then used for the sauce, which is thickened with butter, flour and a bit of cocoa.

    Hirschpfeffer with Spätzle, Marroni and Rotkraut. My dinner today, it was delicious. Hirschpfeffer is essentially deer meat that's been soaked in a marinade of

    Red cabbage, cooked in vine, broth and vinegar.

    Hirschpfeffer with Spätzle, Marroni and Rotkraut. My dinner today, it was delicious. Hirschpfeffer is essentially deer meat that's been soaked in a marinade of

    Chestnuts with caramel sauce.

    Hirschpfeffer with Spätzle, Marroni and Rotkraut. My dinner today, it was delicious. Hirschpfeffer is essentially deer meat that's been soaked in a marinade of

    Spätzle, best described as German pasta.

    Hirschpfeffer with Spätzle, Marroni and Rotkraut. My dinner today, it was delicious. Hirschpfeffer is essentially deer meat that's been soaked in a marinade of

    All together, a delicious dinner for fall season.

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  • Lionsgate, Meta, and a Wild Week in AI

    Lionsgate, Meta, and a Wild Week in AI

    Matt is joined by Justine Bateman—writer, director, producer, and SAG-AFTRA negotiation committee consultant on the use of AI—to check in on the latest developments on AI in entertainment. They discuss Lionsgate’s new deal with AI company Runway to make movies and shows more efficiently, Meta’s new deal with celebrities to voice a new AI chatbot, and whether other studios will follow suit (02:24). Matt finishes the show with two opening weekend box office predictions for Megalopolis and the animated film The Wild Robot (26:03).

    For a 20 percent discount on Matt’s Hollywood insider newsletter, What I’m Hearing …, click here.

    Email us your thoughts! thetown@spotify.com

    Host: Matt Belloni
    Guest: Justine Bateman
    Producers: Craig Horlbeck and Jessie Lopez
    Theme Song: Devon Renaldo

    Subscribe: Spotify

    Matthew Belloni

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  • The Best Places to Drink Along Malt Row in Ravenswood

    The Best Places to Drink Along Malt Row in Ravenswood

    Cultivate by Forbidden Root is one of many beer options along Malt Row.
    |

    Garrett Sweet/Eater Chicago

    Chicago is one of the biggest craft brewing hubs in the nation, home to industry pioneers like Goose Island (a subsidiary of Anheuser-Busch) and fledgling operations sharing space in brewery incubators. For brew aficionados who want to spend a day getting a taste of the city’s beer scene, there’s no better place to go than Malt Row, the name given by the Greater Ravenswood Chamber of Commerce to the stretch of breweries and taprooms along the Metra tracks in the Ravenswood Industrial Corridor. Running about a mile and a half through a residential North Side neighborhood, the zone from Irving Park Road to Balmoral Avenue is home to eight taprooms plus a distillery and a winery, all close enough for a long, boozy stroll. Try a wide variety of beers ranging from traditional German-style lagers to funky saisons made with Midwestern fruit. Check out these 10 Malt Row spots and then take home a six-pack or growler of a new favorite.

    Read More

    Samantha Nelson

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  • Indiana Real Estate Commissions: What You Can Expect in 2024

    Indiana Real Estate Commissions: What You Can Expect in 2024

    Real estate commissions play a pivotal role in determining the overall costs of buying or selling a home in Indiana. New changes introduced in 2024 have brought more transparency to the process, making it easier for both buyers and sellers to understand fees and negotiate more confidently. These updates are aimed at making real estate transactions clearer for everyone involved.

    Whether you’re a first-time homebuyer or a seasoned seller, this guide will cover the essential details about real estate commissions in Indiana.

    Current state of the Indiana housing market

    Before diving into commission specifics, it’s helpful to look at the current state of Indiana’s housing market:

    Median Home Sale Price $267,100
    Housing Supply 24,023 (+15.8% YoY)
    Homes Sold Above List Price 22.3% (-5.8 pts YoY)

    Understanding real estate commissions in Indiana

    What are real estate commissions?

    Real estate commissions refer to the payment made to real estate agents upon the successful completion of a home sale. Usually, these fees are calculated as a percentage of the final sale price and are paid at the time of closing, compensating agents for their efforts throughout the transaction process.

    Who pays the commission?

    In the past, sellers typically covered both their agent’s fee and the buyer’s agent’s fee. However, as of August 17, 2024, buyers are now required to sign a document specifying their agent’s fee before they start touring homes.

    While buyers can still ask the seller to cover their agent’s commission, this new update makes the buyer’s agent fee more flexible and open for negotiation. Sellers are no longer automatically expected to cover these costs.

    stone and white single family home in indiana

    Average real estate commission rates in Indiana

    In Indiana, real estate commission rates can vary significantly depending on the details of the transaction and the agreements made between the buyer, seller, and their agents. While there are standard expectations for commission rates, these fees are fully negotiable, giving both parties the opportunity to find a commission structure that aligns with their preferences.

    Key factors such as the property’s location, the current market, and the level of service provided by the agent can all impact the final commission. This flexibility allows buyers and sellers to adjust fees based on their specific needs and financial goals. Below is an example of typical commission rates based on median home prices in some of Indiana’s major cities.

    City Median Home Sale Price 1.5% Real Estate Commission 3% Real Estate Commission 5% Real Estate Commission
    Indianapolis $250,000 $3,750 $7,500 $12,500
    Fort Wayne $220,000 $3,300 $6,600 $11,000
    Evansville $155,000 $2,325 $4,650 $7,750

    At Redfin, we’re dedicated to delivering exceptional value to consumers. Sellers can benefit from a listing fee as low as 1%*. For buyers, our fees vary by location but are designed to remain competitive, helping your offer stand out and increasing your chances of success in the homebuying process.

    Can you negotiate real estate commissions in Indiana? 

    Definitely! There are no laws in the U.S. that set commission rates, meaning agents are often open to negotiating lower fees based on the specifics of the transaction, the services needed, and the client relationship.

    When negotiating, it’s essential to consider the services being offered by the agent, such as their marketing plan and local expertise. These factors can impact the fee structure. Additionally, homes in high-demand areas may offer more room for negotiating a lower commission rate. In cases of dual agency, where one agent represents both buyer and seller, it may also be possible to reduce the overall commission costs.

    Tips for a successful negotiation

    • Interview multiple agents to compare their fees and services.
    • Propose performance-based incentives to motivate your agent to secure a faster sale or higher sale price.
    • Use your property’s appeal, especially if it’s in a desirable location, to encourage agents to adjust their commission.

    what-is-fair-housing-3

    Indiana real estate commission FAQs

    What are the changes to real estate commission? Two key changes took effect: buyers must agree to their agent’s commission before touring homes, and in many markets, buyer agent commissions are no longer visible on MLS listings. Learn more about the real estate commission changes here

    How do the changes impact buyers in Indiana? Buyers now need to sign an agreement that specifies their agent’s fee before starting home tours. However, they can still negotiate with sellers during the offer process to cover the agent’s fee.

    How do the changes impact sellers in Indiana? Sellers can work with their listing agent to determine if they’ll cover any of the buyer’s agent commission. Sellers should be prepared to negotiate these costs with potential buyers.

    How do you find a real estate agent in Indiana? When you’re ready to buy or sell in Indiana, connecting with a Redfin agent will give you expert guidance through the entire process.

    How can you avoid fees? One way to avoid commission fees is to sell your home as a For Sale By Owner (FSBO). However, handling all the marketing, showings, and legal paperwork yourself can be challenging without the help of a professional.

     

    *Listing fee subject to change, minimums apply. Any buyer’s agent fee the seller chooses to cover not included. Listing fee increased by 1% of sale price if buyer is unrepresented. Sell for a 1% listing fee only if you also buy with Redfin within 365 days of closing on your Redfin listing. We will charge a 1.5% listing fee, then send you a check for the 0.5% difference after you buy your next home with us. Learn more here.

    Ana de Guzman

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  • The Moment That Woodstock ’99 Went Up in Flames

    The Moment That Woodstock ’99 Went Up in Flames

    Editor’s note, September 17, 2024: This piece was originally published on August 20, 2019, when the seventh episode of Break Stuff: The Story of Woodstock ’99 was released. To mark the recent 25th anniversary of the festival, The Ringer is resurfacing Break Stuff on its own dedicated Spotify feed.

    In 1999, a music festival in upstate New York became a social experiment. There were riots, looting, and numerous assaults, all set to a soundtrack of the era’s most aggressive rock bands. Incredibly, this was the third iteration of Woodstock, a festival originally known for peace, love, and hippie idealism. But Woodstock ’99 revealed some hard truths behind the myths of the 1960s and the danger that nostalgia can engender.

    Break Stuff, an eight-part documentary podcast series now available on Spotify, investigates what went wrong at Woodstock ’99 and the legacy of the event as host Steven Hyden interviews promoters, attendees, journalists, and musicians. We’ve already explored whether Limp Bizkit was to blame for the chaos, how the story of the original Woodstock is mostly a myth, how the host town prepared for the festival, how the first night of Woodstock ’99 set the stage for what was to come, what the human toll of the festival was, and the sexual violence that occurred. In this episode, we’ll look at the Sunday night riots that most people remember the festival for.

    Below is an excerpt from the seventh episode of Break Stuff. Find the series here, and check back each Tuesday and Thursday through September 19 for new episodes.


    By early Sunday morning, on Woodstock ’99’s final day, many attendees were still trying to sleep off the previous night’s partying. But the media people covering the festival were up with the sun. In the harsh light of day, Griffiss Air Force Base looked like a wasteland.

    “We got there before anybody had started playing, before anybody had left their tents,” says Dave Holmes, an on-air host for MTV in 1999. “I got a photograph from the stage of the entire lawn, the main viewing area, and it was just a sea of trash and one single person face down asleep. Not on a sleeping bag, just on the grass. It was just him and a thousand hot dog wrappers and red Solo cups and napkins for as far as the eye can see. And that is my enduring image of Woodstock ’99.”

    Rob Sheffield, who covered the festival for Rolling Stone, was also up early that morning, surveying the damage.

    “Everybody was really pretty used up and burned out by Sunday morning,” he says. “I hadn’t done a drug all weekend and I felt like the wrath of God so I can just imagine how people who were literally hungover were feeling.

    “I slept on a pile of pizza boxes. Pizza boxes were a very good surface to sleep on because pizza boxes are white. And, uh, because they’re white, you could tell if they’d been urinated on or not. Which makes them very very useful if you’re looking for something to sleep on. Because every flat surface there had been so thoroughly urinated on.”

    The music on Saturday culminated with some of the loudest and most aggressive bands of the entire festival: Metallica, Rage Against the Machine, and Limp Bizkit. Sunday, however, started on a much different foot musically. Wearing sunglasses and his signature black hat, Willie Nelson attempted to bring a little mellowness back to the festival.

    “His set begins with ‘Whiskey River,’” Sheffield says. “And that was one of the great musical moments of the weekend, ’cause I just remember everybody really kind of breathing a sigh of relief. Willie is going to take care of us. Willie is the smart sane adult in the room at this point—not the promoters, definitely not the security people.”

    But the laid-back feeling Nelson brought to Woodstock ’99 was short-lived. Not long after Willie Nelson left the stage in clouds of marijuana smoke, another smart, sane adult—Elvis Costello—came out.

    Now, I love Elvis Costello. I am a rock critic, after all. I think he’s one of the great singer-songwriters of the ’70s and ’80s. But Woodstock ’99 wasn’t exactly his crowd. In the video, you can see people throwing water bottles at Elvis before he’s even reached the chorus of his first song.

    “Elvis Costello, he really tried, but he was with an acoustic guitar and was playing for the most part for a non–Elvis Costello–cultist kind of crowd,” Sheffield says. “He began with a deep cut from Spike, ‘Pads, Paws, and Claws,’ and it was just a preposterously bad performance that was self-indulgent in a rock star kind of way. It was just really kind of abrasive and aggravating for people. … The collective angst level of the crowd got a little uglier.”

    The bad feeling that Rob picked up on during Elvis Costello’s set was also felt by Jake Hafner, a 23-year-old Syracuse man hired to work for the festival’s Peace Patrol. Jake and his fellow guards were already struggling to contend with a depleted security force. By Sunday, many of Jake’s coworkers had already been fired; others simply quit once they were inside the base in order to join the party. But when Jake showed up for his shift on Sunday afternoon, the tension in the air was even sharper and more intense.

    “It would get a little closer to the edge every night,” he says. “By Sunday when we showed up for work we all knew collectively that something was going to happen that night. It was just in the air. You could just feel it.”

    That feeling in the air might have just been sheer exhaustion. Many people were operating on very little sleep by then. During the previous night, security guards had given up on policing the campgrounds where many attendees stayed.

    “They had stopped sending ambulances or cops into that area because as soon as they would enter in there they would just get pelted with rocks and mud and everything. It was kind of like a no man’s zone,” Hafner says. “So they stopped sending people in there altogether. And I believe that was where a lot of the really bad stuff happened.”

    One member of Woodstock’s medical team who did venture into the campgrounds on Sunday morning was Dave Konig, an EMT.

    “When you went through the campground, a little bit it reminded you of a refugee camp from the movies,” Konig says. “That there had been some sort of big battle and there’s just trash all over, things burnt all over from the night before, from whatever campfires had gone on. So you just saw that breakdown of both the structure and civility amongst people. Yeah, it was definitely palpable Sunday morning. But yet people still went to the stages.”

    While most attendees were still able to maintain some semblance of sanity, Dave does remember encountering a man in the campgrounds who had clearly gone off the deep end. I say “clearly” because the man was completely naked and seemed like he was hopped up on some combination of drugs. He was so out of it that he was destroying every tent in sight.

    Finally, one of Dave’s coworkers decided to intervene.

    “I remember this guy stepped up to, to, this naked man,” Konig says. “He gave this guy a right hook like Muhammad Ali. He just hooked him so hard. The guy’s head snapped to the right. And then … he was like the Terminator—it just slowly turned back and then he looked at the guy who had just hit him and he was just like, ‘Rawr!’ And … everybody just tackled him at that point. We tackled him. We got him restrained, sedated, and brought him in.”

    The rising tension was getting to MTV’s Holmes. Festival attendees had been abusive to the music channel’s hosts and camera crews since Friday. Someone even threw a bottle of urine at TRL host Carson Daly.

    By Sunday, the MTV contingent was thoroughly rattled.

    “Even before the rioting—that’s a fun way to start a sentence, even before the rioting—it seemed like this was not going to be remembered as a successful festival,” says Holmes. “When we got back to the Air Force base the next day, all anybody was talking about was how scared they were the night before. A lot of the cameramen and the production people were up in this tower that, like, could have been brought down like a scene from Game of Thrones in the middle of the show. People were understandably a little nervous that Sunday.”

    That tension boiled over during a press conference in the afternoon. Someone from MTV confronted Woodstock ’99 promoter John Scher over the festival’s failure to control the most violent attendees:

    “MTV News was forced to get off of home base, we felt it was too dangerous,” the reporter said. There were people throwing glass bottles everywhere. MTV tower people had to be evacuated.

    “Calm down,” Scher responded.

    “In all of the concerts I’ve seen, I have never seen anything quite so out of hand as this. It was violent, it was dangerous, it was hostile,” the reporter continued. “My question for you is why did no one from either security or the organization walk out to Fred Durst and say, ‘Man, can you ask these kids to chill?’ I talked to kids later who were petrified out there.”

    The confrontation was a rare sour note for Scher at that point in the festival. As far as he and other organizers were concerned, Woodstock ’99 was going along swimmingly. All of the tensions that seemed obvious to those on the ground weren’t apparent to the people running the festival.

    “Right after that, I took a walk from the press tent to the stage and this woman journalist, I can’t remember her name, but she walked and said, ‘Can we talk?’” Scher says now. “And at one point we stopped and she said, ‘This is unbelievable. This is the greatest thing. If you put this many people at any other kind of event, it never would have gone that well.’ She said it was just amazing. And then it all blew up over the next couple of hours.”

    It turns out that the expectations were way out of whack. What was actually in the works was a candlelight vigil organized by an anti-gun group. By Sunday afternoon, they were handing out candles to attendees.

    “And the peace candles became the kindling for the fires that became part of the riot,” says Brian Hiatt, a journalist who covered Woodstock ’99 and later did a yearlong investigation into the festival.

    In his reporting, Hiatt discovered that attendees had been setting fires all over the grounds throughout the weekend. And yet nobody ever seemed to get in trouble for it.

    “As they put out those fires, the attendees were already threatening to make more fire,” Hiatt says. “They said, ‘We’ll burn anything.’ The threats were, ‘You can’t stop us. If you stop us, it’ll start somewhere else.’”

    As late afternoon turned into early evening, the crowd grew increasingly disgruntled and unruly. And then, one of the most popular rock bands of the era showed up on stage: Creed. At Woodstock ’99, they were received like rock royalty.

    However, Creed guitarist Mark Tremonti remembers Woodstock ’99 as kind of a terrifying experience.

    “Back then in ’99, we’d only been kind of a professional touring band for about two years, so I didn’t have the stage confidence that I have now,” he says. “So it was I just remember it being such a large and intimidating type of setting.”

    Soon after Creed left the stage, Woodstock ’99 would descend into riots. But Tremonti can’t recall feeling any premonitions. After Creed it was time for that night’s big headliner—the Red Hot Chili Peppers. The band was riding high again that summer after years of inaction. The album Californication, which became the band’s best-selling record, came out the previous month.

    Their performance was supposed to mark the festival’s triumphant climax. And the band was primed for the decadent atmosphere. No one more than Flea, who came out wearing his bass guitar … and no clothes.

    Getty Images

    “It seemed like they were playing very well,” Sheffield says. “It was really a beautiful Chili Peppers set. They were coming off Californication. They had the best songs of their career, and they were playing at the peak of their career. So it’s weirdly incongruous. That’s when the violence and the crowd got really, really ugly.”

    After playing for about an hour, the Chili Peppers left the stage. Before they could come back for their planned encore, the chasm between the stage and the audience suddenly collapsed. John Scher himself came out to warn the audience.

    “As you can see, if you look behind you, we have a bit of a problem,” he said.

    The problem was a bonfire raging on the horizon. Actually, the word “bonfire” doesn’t do justice to this wild inferno. In a video posted on YouTube, it looks like a small cabin that’s been totally engulfed in flames. But in the chaotic context of Woodstock ’99, it didn’t seem out of place at first.

    Even with part of the festival now on fire, the show didn’t immediately end. When the Chili Peppers came back out, singer Anthony Kiedis commented sardonically on the situation.

    “Holy shit, it’s Apocalypse Now out there. Make way for the fire trucks!” he said

    And then they proceeded to play a cover of “Fire” by Jimi Hendrix. I think that this was supposed to be part of the festival’s grand finale—a callback to one of the biggest stars of the original festival, coupled with the candlelight vigil that was now a full-on blaze.

    Steven Hyden

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  • Khmai Cambodian Will Reopen After Starbucks Construction Left The Restaurant Covered in Debris

    Khmai Cambodian Will Reopen After Starbucks Construction Left The Restaurant Covered in Debris

    After being closed for over a month, Khmai Cambodian Fine Dining and its sibling restaurant Kaun Khmai will reopen on Wednesday, September 18 at its Rogers Park location near Loyola University’s campus. Reservations are available for opening day.

    One of Eater’s 15 Best New Restaurants in America in 2022, owner and chef Mona Sang closed the restaurant after construction dust at an upcoming Starbucks next door contaminated her restaurant. “Our dining room, our kitchen, and everything was covered in dust, top to bottom,” Sang says. Debris seeped into coolers and contaminated glassware. Sang says she feared that she might never reopen again, noting that a financial advisor estimated it could cost $400,000 to cover lost revenues and cleanup efforts at 6580 N. Sheridan Road.

    Sang says construction workers at the neighboring business initially “brushed me off,” and continued work despite the dirt and dust that forced her to throw away $10,000 of food. She says she’s not 100 percent sure how the dust made its way from Starbucks to the restaurant. It may have been the HVAC system or through two holes in a wall between Khmai and the coffee shop. Apparently, a demising wall, a type of structure used to partition sections of a building, was put up by the university and hid the holes from Starbucks’ general contractor. The holes weren’t patched when construction began on August 12. Sang says the contractor told her that their work would not affect her business. But on August 13, she arrived to chaos.

    “We couldn’t even breathe, so at that point, I told everyone just to finish up putting things away and put on a mask — I had to have my mom put on a mask, she was having a hard time breathing,” Sang says. “And then basically I was like, I cannot serve people. I cannot do this.”

    Sarom Sieng and daught Mona Sang at their original restaurant in Rogers Park.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    She announced the closure in an Instagram post on August 14 and then went into more detail with a video shared on August 23. Now that she’s announced a reopening date, Sang says she hopes Starbucks will halt construction, or at least be considerate, while her restaurant is open. Loud construction noises have a habit of ruining any ambiance in the dining room.

    No one has taken accountability for the mess with the unnamed general contractor, Starbucks, and Loyola blaming each other. Sang is caught in the middle after pursuing a fresh start with the university. The restaurateur left her original Rogers Park location near the Evanston border in late 2023 due to trouble with her landlord.

    Starbucks maintains that since Loyola is the landlord it’s their responsibility to deal with Sang’s concerns. Sang has written emails and spent countless hours trying to find answers.

    “Everybody is going to be pointing fingers,” Sang says. “At this point, I don’t care whose fault it is.”

    Sang, who got her start with Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, called the decision to close heartbreaking. The restaurants had only been open in the location since June, near the campus where Sang’s daughter attends college. Inside a bigger and more modern space, Sang unveiled two restaurants, a casual space similar to her original, called Khan Khmai. A second dining room housed a different menu, meant to showcase Cambodian cuisine in a more upscale manner. Just before the shutdown, the city had granted Khmai a liquor license and the restaurant had begun serving cocktails. Alcoholic drinks can be a huge revenue generator for restaurants that can help sustain them.

    “I put all my hard-earned money into it — all of our savings, creating everything — so that we have just to open up this place and for like, within like, you know, less than two months,” Sang says.

    Sang says Loyola was helpful during the closure, but only after she wrote a letter to Loyola CFO Wayne Magdziarz telling him that she needed assistance or her dream restaurant would permanently close. Sang says the school responded to her by offering a loan that could help her quickly reopen. The terms of the loan haven’t yet been finalized so Sang can’t say how much money she’ll borrow. She calls the money “the bare minimum” amount so she can once more serve customers. Sang will also have to dip into her personal savings to keep the restaurant afloat. Loyola did not respond to Eater’s request for comment.

    The Starbucks should open sometime this fall. Last week, a Starbucks rep provided a statement on the matter.

    “Starbucks is committed to being a good neighbor, and we strongly encourage all parties to find a resolution that works for everyone, so that our soon-to-be neighbor can reopen right away,” the emailed statement reads.

    The juxtaposition of a small family-owned restaurant being impacted by the actions of one of the world’s biggest companies isn’t lost upon Sang. She says there’s no way Starbucks would care about her business. Regardless of whose fault it was, Sang says she’s disappointed that no one from Starbucks made contact with her: “Just reaching out and asking if there’s anything we can help you with” would have been nice, Sang says, “Just to say ‘I’m sorry this happened.’”

    A round, black plate holds a small pile of fried egg rolls.

    Khmai’s famous egg rolls.
    Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago

    Beyond lost revenue, Sang is concerned with broken trust. She feels guilty about canceling reservations — diners had booked tables to celebrate special occasions. Workers left the restaurant needing income while the restaurant remained closed. Some of her mother’s favorite employees won’t be returning, and that’s a difficult conversation Sang had to have. Before closing, Khmai employed about 40 people. Sang says Khmai is hiring for all positions if any service workers have an interest.

    On the bright side, opening day will take place on Sieng’s birthday. Though a lot of records and history were lost as they fled Pol Pot’s regime for America, Sang says she believes her mother will turn 82. Cooking Cambodian food proved therapeutic for Sieng and was one of the reasons that made Khmai special. It goes beyond the stellar egg rolls that Sang made for her church before opening her restaurant. Sang also trains workers on the history behind her dishes so they can share with diners.

    Sang says when Khmai opens they’ll launch happy hour specials from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. with the hope that will help them pay off the loan. Later this fall, Khmai will also launch weekend brunch.

    Starbucks’s general contractor and Sang’s restaurants shared the same insurance company. Upon learning that, Sang says she wasn’t surprised when the company denied her claim. Sang says friends have recommended attorneys, but right now she’s not pursuing a lawsuit.

    “It’s not about even the money,” she says. “The reason we opened up this place was because we wanted to educate Chicago about Cambodian food. We wanted to make sure that we had a place for our community.”

    Correction, Monday, September 16, 9:12 p.m.: A previous version of this story misstated that the opening day was Thursday when it is on Wednesday, September 18.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Explore Celebrities Jimmy Butler, Chase Rice, and Roquan Smith’s New Chicago Club

    Explore Celebrities Jimmy Butler, Chase Rice, and Roquan Smith’s New Chicago Club

    River North, especially the area surrounding Hubbard Street, is one of Downtown Chicago’s busiest neighborhoods at night. Tourists and locals alike fill the bars, clubs, and restaurants with herds weaving in and out of traffic crawling to their next destination.

    The neighborhood’s latest addition is a joint venture between former Chicago Bulls star Jimmy Butler, country singer-songwriter Chase Rice, and former Chicago Bear Roquan Smith. The trio has opened the third location of Welcome to the Farm, a country music venue and club with locations in St. Petersburg, Florida and Cleveland. The celebrities are backed by Forward Hospitality Group, a Cleveland outfit that owns Good Night John Boy in West Loop. Fans of Barstool Sports may know one of the principals at Forward, Dante Deiana. Deiana’s a DJ and writer for the infamous media company.

    The Bears might actually be worth watching in 2024. Probably.

    A barbecue platter with meats, ribs, and cornbread, plus metal dipping cups with sauce.

    Spare ribs, pulled turkey, brisket, and short ribs are on the menu.

    A nachos platter with slice jalaepeno

    Smoked brisket nachos

    A skylight with a sliding roof over a lounge.

    The space’s retractable roof remains.

    They’ve remodeled the former Fremont, keeping the retractable roof and modernizing the space which has a stage for small concerts and room for 300. They’ll offer bottle service late into the night. But for folks into food, country music often goes well with smoked meats, and on the restaurant side they’ll serve brisket nachos, smoked chicken wings, pulled pork sandwiches (a Cuban served Miami style also uses the pork), plus spare ribs, short ribs, turkey, and sausage. Fried chicken and tenders are on the menu, as well. Forward Executive Chef Raheem Sealey debuted the menu in Florida at Drinking Pig BBQ, and now he brings his meats and treats up north.

    Does this follow U.S. Flag Code? Well, the DQ sign doesn’t object.

    Bowls, like this one with crispy cauliflower, are also available as lighter options.

    The buttermilk-brined fried chicken sandwich.

    Butler, a perennial All-Star, also played in Minnesota and Philadelphia before finding at home with the Miami Heat. He his own coffee company. He launched BIGFACE in 2020 during the pandemic, when the NBA brought all its playoff teams to Orlando, Florida to limit travel and the spread of COVID. The Bubble and its restrictions made it hard for players and coaches to find a good cup of coffee, so Butler seized the opportunity. For the first time ever, customers will be able to taste BIGFACE drinks in a restaurant setting. A news release touts “new specialty coffee products from Butler’s coffee brand BIGFACE that are available to consume while taking in the scene.”

    Check out the space and some of the menu items below.

    Welcome to the Farm, 15 W. Illinois Street, (312) 833-2080, open noon on weekdays, and 11 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday; kitchen open until 1 a.m.

    There are plenty of screens on the side.

    Feast upon the meats, bowls, and more.

    Watch out for drinks in coffee cups.

    Negronis are nice.

    The straw is a nice touch.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • David Pisor Faces Foreclosure Suit Over Aya Pastry in West Town

    David Pisor Faces Foreclosure Suit Over Aya Pastry in West Town

    As the new owner of Etta Collective attempts to distance itself from the bankruptcy filings of former owner David Pisor, the banks are pressing forward with efforts to collect debts. Records show Pisor has defaulted on the $1.4 million mortgage for the West Town building that houses Aya Pastry.

    Wintrust Bank has filed a lawsuit against Pisor and also lists his former business partner, Jim Lasky, in the complaint. Lasky’s attorneys have reiterated that their client has been long removed from Aya’s operations stemming from an acrimonious split between the parties in 2023. The two also founded Maple & Ash in Gold Coast and Etta. The latter had multiple locations while a Bucktown restaurant remains open under the new ownership of a Texas tech company. Johann Moonesinghe is the founder of InKind and took over Aya Pastry earlier this year after he won an auction for Etta Collective’s assets. Moonesinghe is now the tenant at 1332 W. Grand Avenue and tells Crain’s he’d be interested in buying the Aya building if it were made available. In Scottsdale, Arizona, an Etta outpost was recently sold to RDM Hospitality, an Austin, Texas company. The restaurant will relaunch in late September with renovations and a new modern Italian menu, according to a news release.

    Back in Chicago, Aya Pastry’s namesake, acclaimed pastry chef Aya Fukai, left the bakery in 2023, but her name remains on all the branding. Fukai, who worked with Laksy and Pisor at Maple & Ash, opened the bakery with the pair in 2017. Her recipes also remain and several local coffee shops stock their pastry cases with doughnuts and croissants from the bakery. Fukai isn’t listed as a defendant in Wintrust’s lawsuit, filed Tuesday, September 10 in Cook County circuit court. Pisor kept Fukai’s departure quiet while dealing with the fallout from separating from Lasky. Over the summer, Lasky and chef Danny Grant announced expansion plans for the bar inside Maple & Ash, called Eight Bar. There’s hope of opening multiple locations across the country, and the duo has plans for Maple & Ash and Eight Bar combo in Miami. The steakhouse holds the cachet of being one of Restaurant Business Online’s highest-grossing independent restaurants in the country and tops in Chicago.

    Last year, several former Etta workers protested, citing lapses in healthcare coverage and other operational concerns with Pisor. Meanwhile, Pisor tells Crain’s that he looks forward to resolving the matter concerning Wintrust quickly, describing the bank’s lawsuit as a baseless attack and a “technical default.”

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Lettuce Entertain You Brings Ema to the North Shore

    Lettuce Entertain You Brings Ema to the North Shore

    Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises has brought its hit Ema to the suburbs hoping the North Shore appreciates chef and partner CJ Jacobson’s menu that mixes California cool with Mediterranean. The concept debuted in River North in 2016 and Lettuce has spun that into a sibling concept called Aba, which begot locations in Fulton Market; Austin, Texas; and Miami.

    The buildout in Glenview is impressive, a radical departure from what most associate with the suburbs, taking a page from notable suburban debuts like RH Oak Brook, which channels the energy from the original in Gold Coast. The new Ema features a skylight and a light and breezy design with a track record in other markets.

    In Glenview, Jacobson hopes to win over the lunch crowd with more salads — the chef says for the first time he’s offering a chopped salad (with ​​arugula, romaine, cauliflower, caper, date, parmesan, olive, red pepper). A Caesar’s salad is made with a tahini-spiked dressing. The restaurant’s staple dips, including hummus with lamb ragu and a South Asian-street-influenced bhel hummus made with tamarind and mint chutney, are also available.

    Jacobson mentions the restaurant’s origins, as LEYE co-founded Rich Melman wanted a Mediterranean restaurant. Jacobson doesn’t possess that family background, saying at first he only knew the cuisine through late-night kebob spots in LA. That’s one of the reasons Ema doesn’t focus on a particular region or country. Jacobson compares how Chinese and Italian cuisine proliferated in America, and how locals interpreted those foods using American ingredients. Jacobson feels foods from the Mediterranean haven’t had the chance to go through those filters, and that’s how he approaches Ema. For example, the lamb & beef kofta comes with a hoisin sauce, drawing from Chinese influences. Since Ema’s conception, Jacobson’s experience has endeared him to the culture and cuisine. He’s traveled to the region and he recounts spending time at a late-night Israeli club known for its hummus. After eight years of research, he says Ema has developed a point of view which is what’s made the brand successful.

    A kebob with sauce

    Lamb & beef kofta.

    pita basket with spinach and feta.

    Pita with spinach and feta spread.

    Jacobson has worked with Lettuce since 2014, when he was one of the chefs at the company’s rotating Intro Chicago restaurant in Lincoln Park. He knows the company isn’t known for short menus. They’re big and feature many items to cater to the pickiest. Jacobson doesn’t necessarily agree with that philosophy and says he constantly worries that customers won’t branch out and try something new.

    “Can we be good at all this stuff?” Jacobson asks rhetorically.

    Lettuce Entertain You is Chicago’s largest restaurant group and the Melman family’s strategy of ensuring the customer is always right has been successful for 53 years. “I kind of get proved wrong time and time again,” Jacobson adds.

    Jacobson ponders his future with Lettuce, saying that he’s due to pitch the Melmans on a new restaurant idea. While he ponders, he reflects on Ema and Aba.

    “Anytime you spend this amount of time with a cuisine, it becomes a part of who you are,” he says.

    Ema Glenview, 1320 Patriot Road in Glenview, lunch is 11:30 to 4 p.m., until 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday; dinner is 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thurday, until 10 p.m. on Friday; 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday.

    Hamachi on rice cracker with Fresno pepper.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • Inside This South Loop Supper Club With Food From a French Laundry Alum

    Inside This South Loop Supper Club With Food From a French Laundry Alum

    Two years ago, Entree introduced itself to Chicago, taking over the South Loop space where the city’s only Michelin-starred restaurant south of Roosevelt stood. Entree delivered meal kits, searching for a sweet spot for folks fed up with fees and mistakes from third-party couriers and restaurant customers who missed eating out during the pandemic. As the business grew, its owners knew they had an asset in their dining room. They threw pop-ups and opened the bar area earlier this year while unveiling a new name for on-premise dining, Oliver’s.

    In late August the time finally arrived as Oliver’s dining room finally debuted. The added real estate will give Oliver’s chef Alex Carnovale more room to play. He’s already established a menu of favorites including roast chicken, a burger, and diver scallops. The French Laundry alum has shown his ambitions while developing the menus for Entree’s delivery side. With Oliver’s, Carnovale no longer has to worry about whether his food will survive a car ride.

    The space is warmer, with a supper club feeling that presents a departure from the modern vibe of the previous tenant. Specifically, Oliver’s was going for a 1930s speakeasy feel. It’s a comfy place to enjoy truffle gnocchi or tomato risotto. As the bar opened first, the drink program had time to mature under the leadership of Luke DeYoung who worked a Sepia and Scofflaw. A gin martini is garnished with caviar-stuffed olive. There are non-alcoholic options, and a deep wine list, too. Happy hour specials have already launched, and bar snacks include Italian beef popcorn, cheddar fries, and beef-fat griddled sourdough from Publican Quality Bread. The latter is served with whipped parmesan and steak sauce.

    Walk through the space below. Oliver’s dining room is now open.

    Oliver’s, 1930 S. Wabash Avenue, open 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, reservations via Tock.

    Ashok Selvam

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  • The Best Places in Chicago for an Affordable Date Night

    The Best Places in Chicago for an Affordable Date Night

    Surprise a date with a trip to Nine Bar, a speakeasy hidden behind Chinatown takeout spot Moon Palace Express. The glowing pink, green, and blue hues in the Blade Runner-inspired space provide a moody venue to share dumplings, cold sesame noodles and Asian-inspired cocktails like the Neo Toyko blended with Suntory Toki, ginger, and lemongrass or the Paradise Lost, a rum-based drink incorporating mango cordial, ube and Thai coconut milk.

    Samantha Nelson

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  • My americanht? Oh yeah, just great.

    My americanht? Oh yeah, just great.

    My americanht? Oh yeah, just great.. They treated me like a kid. It was so frustrating. I went in, they gave me an IV with a of meds, then also an intramuscular

    My americanht? Oh yeah, just great.. They treated me like a kid. It was so frustrating. I went in, they gave me an IV with a of meds, then also an intramuscular

    They treated me like a kid. It was so frustrating. I went in, they gave me an IV with a ******** of meds, then also an intramuscular epi pen.
    I felt better in an hour, but they made me stay for another 5. They legally couldn’t keep me there, but that didn’t matter I guess. Whatever, I’m happy to be home and not itchy.

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  • The Best Pasta in Chicago

    The Best Pasta in Chicago

    Low lighting, dramatic chandeliers, and jeweled tones bring plenty of charm to dining inside at Adalina, though the Gold Coast restaurant’s tree-lined patio is also a popular spot to sip spritzes when the weather permits. Any seat is good for twirling spaghetti alla vongole with pickled chili or biting into perfectly plump corn agnolotti, After dinner, head to the downstairs Rose Lounge for a nightcap. Make a reservation through OpenTable.

    Samantha Nelson

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  • Molokhia Is Comfort to Palestinian Americans in a Time of Profound Grief

    Molokhia Is Comfort to Palestinian Americans in a Time of Profound Grief

    Manal Farhan lost her appetite. It was November of 2023, more than a month since the October 7 attack by Hamas in Israel, killing 1,139 civilians and members of the Israeli military and taking more than 200 hostages. The violence that day sparked an Israeli siege on the Gaza Strip that had already killed more than 14,000 Gazans (the toll has climbed astronomically since), flattening buildings, and creating a dire humanitarian crisis. Farhan, a Palestinian American in the throes of intense grief, hand-stitched a Palestinian flag and hung it outside her home in Logan Square. Then, she says she received a call from the management company representing landlord Mark Fishman telling her to remove it — if she didn’t, she’d be evicted. “I said ‘I’m Palestinian and there’s a genocide.’ They said, ‘You have to remain neutral,’” Farhan recounts.

    Between anxiety about the eviction and the horror of witnessing Palestinians slaughtered and dismembered by bombs daily on social media, Farhan struggled to eat. “When you’re carrying that level of stress, your body stops responding to hunger. Hunger becomes a secondary concern,” she says. But hunger would often return when her mother Karima would make molokhia (ملوخية), a leafy stew with roots in Egypt that today represents a unifying dish across the Arab world. Molokhia, the national dish of Egypt, is ancient. The pre-Arabized roots of its name means “for the royals” or “for the gods.” The leaves, also called jute mallow, spread from Egypt across the Arab world with migration and trade. It’s seasoned simply with salt, garlic, and lemon, boiled in chicken broth, and often served with chicken or lamb.

    This humble soup, made with greens and often chicken broth, has become a soothing symbol of solidarity amidst violence in Gaza.

    In times of turmoil, we turn to the dishes that make us feel safe, and more and more these days, people in Chicago — home to one of the nation’s largest and oldest Palestinian immigrant communities — are seeking solace in a bowl of molokhia. As one count estimates at least 186,000 Palestinians may have been killed by Israeli forces — according to a letter published by researchers in the British medical journal the Lancet — Arab Americans are searching for comfort and solidarity by any means. In that climate, the dish is taking on a new political significance for many Arabs introduced to it for the first time. Almost every weekend, organizations like the U.S. Palestinian Community Network and Students for Justice in Palestine organize large protests downtown. On Thursday, August 22, groups assembled outside the United Center to protest the exclusion of a Palestinian American speaker at the DNC. Autonomous groups blockade streets in Wicker Park, protest weapons manufacturers like Boeing in the Loop, and even dyed Buckingham Fountain blood-red, spray-painting “Gaza is bleeding.” And now, as the Democratic National Convention descends upon Chicago, protestors march and disrupt politicians’ speeches, condemning them for funding Israel’s army. To ignore the political reality of the people who love this dish, then, would be to tell an incomplete story of molokhia’s place in Chicago.

    “I don’t know a Palestinian who doesn’t love molokhia,” Farhan says as we eat and discuss her case at the Palestinian-owned Salam Restaurant in Albany Park. The same Palestinian flag Farhan made in November remains hanging outside her home as she continues to fight what she contends is an unlawful eviction. (The landlord argues that a lease agreement bans any article from being displayed out of a window.) Palestinian Chicagoans and allies have protested the eviction, boycotting the Logan Theater, which Fishman owns. Being evicted here in Chicago for “expressing love and pride” for her heritage, as her federal lawsuit against Fishman states, is ironic for Farhan. Her maternal grandmother’s home in occupied Palestine is now inhabited by Israeli settlers. (Farhan’s lawsuit, which argued neutrality was never the objective — other tenants could fly Christmas and Hanukkah decorations out their windows, according to Farhan’s lawsuit — was dismissed in March and Farhan awaits an appeal.)

    Alongside graphic photos of corpses and rubble, I see displaced Palestinians making molokhia in Gaza on social media. “Mloukhieh is one of the most popular dishes loved and made by Gazans. Usually, it is made with chicken or chicken broth, but since no protein source is currently available, we are making it with processed chicken broth. As usual made with love, amidst the war,” Renad, a 10-year-old content creator from Gaza, writes in a caption. The lack of chicken is glaring; meat being nearly impossible to find or buy due to Israeli blockades of food, hygiene products, and medicine. Many, especially in North Gaza, have died of starvation. Still, the dish seems to retain its celebratory and comforting meaning, even in the depths of hell. “Palestinian food is one of the foundational aspects of socialization in our culture … regardless of the fact that [the refugees] were displaced and dispossessed,” says Lubnah Shomali, the advocacy director of Badil, a human rights organization for Palestinian refugees.

    Lubnah, a Palestinian Christian, was raised in the Chicago suburbs before moving her family, including her daughter, my friend Rachel, to the West Bank to connect with their culture, even though life was harder under occupation. Lubnah says refugees often pick up different methods of making molokhia from each other, the same debates I hear in Chicago melded. “Within the refugee camps, there persists this need to host, invite people, and make meals,” Lubnah says.

    For Mizrahi Jews, Jewish people of Middle Eastern descent, molokhia is part of their memory too, even though the Nakba severed these ties. Hisham Khalifeh, owner of Middle East Bakery in Andersonville, recalls meeting an 80-year-old Mizrahi Jewish man there in Chicago. “He still had his Palestinian ID in his pocket,” Khalifeh says. The man wanted to talk about the food he’d loved in Palestine and all that had changed since he was cleaved from his Muslim and Christian neighbors by Israel’s formation, apartheid, and ethnic cleansing. Khalifeh says the man told him in Arabic, their shared ancestral language, “Naaood lal tareekh.” Let us go back to history.


    “White people love tacos [and] enchiladas… but I remember being a kid, eating molokhia at school and everybody being like, ‘Ew, this is slimy green stew,’” recalls Iman, a Mexican Palestinian Chicagoan. Iman agrees molokhia is a core part of Chicago but is doubtful others will see it that way — which she doesn’t mind. “It’s one of those things I feel is so loved but hasn’t been claimed or taken over by white culture yet.”

    The first Palestinians arrived in Chicago in the 1800s, long before the modern Israeli state was established, according to Loren Lybarger, a professor at Ohio University and author of Palestine in Chicago: Identity in Exile. He recalls eating molokhia frequently at the homes of Palestinian community leaders in Chicago during his research.

    Molokhia, the national dish of Egypt, is ancient. The pre-Arabized roots of its name means “for the royals” or “for the gods.” A 13th-century Syrian cookbook lists four different versions; one that calls for charred onions ground into paste and another with meatballs. It’s a food that’s inspired myth and religious fervor, as it’s said that the soup nursed 10th-century Egyptian ruler Fatimid Caliph al-Hakim bi-Amr Allah back to health — hence the name. (It’s also sometimes called Jew’s mallow, referring to a claim that Jewish rabbis were the first to discover and cultivate it.) The Druze, an ethno-religious group in West Asia, believed and still believe the caliph was God. So many Druze do not eat molokhia even now, obeying his command. For most people, though, molokhia is no longer solely for kings or gods anymore. But making it can be an affair fit for royalty.

    Cooked molokhia leaves have a “viscous quality, similar to nopales in Mexican cuisine,” Lebanese chef Sabrina Beydoun says. Molokhia is comfort food, something teeming and right in the deep greens, the grassy and earthy smell. “My mom would prepare it with a lot of pride,” she says. “As I’ve gotten older, I look back on [it] with fondness and nostalgia.”

    And everyone has a different way they like their molokhia — the variations and debates are practically part of the experience. “Everyone does it their way, and everyone is convinced their way is better,” Beydoun says, laughing.

    My friend Rachel, a former player on Palestine’s national basketball team, prefers molokhia leaves whole (Beydoun says this is common amongst Lebanese people), while my other Palestinian friend Rayean grew up with ground leaves. Farhan’s mother Karima’s special ingredient is a bit of citric acid.

    A bowl of molokhia with chicken and rice in the back.

    Molokhia is prepared differently depending on the household and restaurant.

    An adult father-and-son team wearing the same shirts and smiling while sitting down.

    The father-and-son team of Ahmed and Mohammed Saleh at their restaurant, Cairo Kebab.

    At Cairo Kebab, the city’s only Egyptian restaurant, molokhia became the second-most requested dish among its Arab diners since the spot began serving it daily in 2023 off Chicago’s fabled Maxwell Street in University Village, according to co-owner Mohammed Saleh. “Home foods ground us and make us into who we are,” he says. Molokhia is arguably part of a larger shift, where restaurants owned by marginalized ethnic groups are increasingly serving dishes once relegated to the home, due to both wider awareness through media, desire for the dishes among immigrant communities longing for familiar foods, and chefs feeling empowered to explore their identities in a deeper way.

    “A lot of our customers who are Palestinian or Jordanian will ask for a bunch of lemon, or will ask for us to not cook it with garlic,” says Mohammed.

    Ahmed, the owner and head chef of Cairo Kebab and Mohammed’s father, adds that unless they’ve had molokhia before, “Americans eat it however we serve it.”

    Ahmed makes the restaurant’s version with lots of garlic in sizzling butter, while Raeyan’s family goes light on garlic. I love the chicken with crispy, roasted skin, and frequently alternate between spooning the molokhia onto the rice and chicken, and spooning rice and chicken into the molokhia. Some like it skinless and boiled. Most of my friends eat it with rice; Ahmed says many prefer sopping it up with bread, and some eat it plain like soup, with a spoon or light sips from the bowl. Usually, it’s served with squeeze after squeeze of fresh lemon.

    Khalifeh has fond memories of molokhia with quail. Ahmed says in Egypt’s second-largest city, the port town of Alexandria, it’s often made with shrimp, and some use rabbit. In Tunisia, the molokhia is dried and ground into a powder, resulting in a silky, nearly black-colored stew with lamb. Sudanese people, because of their shared history with Egypt, also love molokhia. It’s spelled molokhia, mlokheya, molokhia… The differences are endless and dizzying.

    “When I was a kid in Egypt, molokhia wasn’t just a food, it was an event,” Eman Abdelhadi, an Egyptian Palestinian writer and sociology professor at the University of Chicago, wrote in an email. “A whole day would be spent in the arduous processes of washing, drying, and cutting it. It was something we all looked forward to.” Ahmed says that during Ramadan iftars, a time of gathering after fasting all day in the Muslim holy month, many customers request at least two plates of molokhia when breaking fast.

    A man in a red shirt holds up two pots and pours green soup into a bowl.

    Ahmed Saleh, who owns Cairo Kebab, moved to Chicago in 1990.

    For Arab Chicagoans who didn’t grow up with molokhia, Chicago is often the place they first tried it. “We don’t have molokhia in Morocco. But I heard of it because we used to watch old [Egyptian] movies,” says Imane Abekhane, an employee at Cairo Kebab. “Then I came to Chicago, tried the Egyptian molokhia, and I loved that.”

    When I first started investigating molokhia for this piece, so many of my Arab friends told me Cairo Kebab’s was the best place to try it in Chicago — a bowl made me understand why. Tender roasted chicken, bright green molokhia balanced with just enough garlic and salt, vermicelli noodles in the rice, and a side of homemade tomato-based hot sauce with chile flakes, chile pepper, and black pepper — all delicious. Ahmed made the molokhia at my table the way it’s sometimes made in Egypt, with flair and performance, a gloopy river of green cascading from one saucepan into another before pooling in my bowl. Mohammed notes that he’s seen more Palestinians and Arabs come into Cairo Kebab for home dishes like molokhia since the devastation began in Palestine last year.

    Even if everyone cannot agree on how to make it, everyone I spoke to agrees that molokhia is an Egyptian dish. But because of the large population of Palestinians in Chicago, many’s first meeting with molokhia — including mine — is at a Palestinian friend’s home, or at Palestinian-owned grocers like Middle East Bakery, where Khalifeh says non-Arabs often come in after seeing it online as part of a growing advocacy for Palestinian cuisine and the Palestinian cause — their resistance against Israeli occupation. That gives the dish a certain political significance.


    When we made molokhia, Rachel used dried leaves her grandmother brought her from Palestine, an experience Mohammed Saleh says is common. “When we go to Egypt, my parents are always gonna bring back at least one suitcase full of dry pre-packaged goods, including molokhia,” he says.

    Frozen and dried leaves are also readily available in Chicago, at Middle East Bakery, Sahar’s International Market, or Feyrous Pastries and Groceries in Albany Park. Both Raeyan and Rachel insist that dried — which produces a darker color than frozen — is better. Ahmed says dried has its merits, but frozen leaves preserve molokhia in its original state more effectively, the process of drying giving it a different taste and color. “Frozen is as close to molokhia leaves harvested in Egypt by hand as you can get,” he says. Khalifeh, in contrast, is adamant that dried is always better, saying it has a flavor and texture that frozen can never achieve. One of his tactics is to put a little bit of frozen leaves into the dried, helping with color and consistency. But he and Ahmed both say that not everyone can make dried molokhia correctly.

    And perhaps something is lost in the modernity of freezing, something exchanged when sifting through the molokhia leaves is forgone. “My mom and aunts sit on the floor, removing stems and remnants of other harvest[s] like tobacco leaves,” Beydoun says. “It’s a communal practice. It is a poetic thing to witness.” In dried leaves, I see survival — a way to transport ancestral plants for scattered diasporas. Frozen molokhia must be shipped. But dried can be carried; it is not dependent on any company, just those who have a relationship with the plant.

    Still, almost everyone agrees fresh leaves are best — if you can find them. Sahar’s has fresh molokhia leaves this summer, but “they go fast and we sometimes don’t know when they’ll come in,” a grocer told me over the phone. Hisham also directed me to Việt Hoa Plaza, where I found fresh leaves that the grocers there also said are rarely stocked due to the growing popularity of molokhia in East Asian cuisine. According to the Markaz Review, Japanese farmers started growing the plant after advertisements in the ’80s pushed molokhia with slogans like “the secret of longevity and the favorite vegetable of Cleopatra!”

    “[It’s] very popular in Japanese grocery stores as well as Korean grocery stores,” says Kate Kim-Park, CEO of HIS Hospitality, adding that their version is slightly stickier. “The plant is called 아욱 (ah-ohk) in Korean,” she says.

    Chef Sangtae Park of Omakase Yume in the West Loop has fond memories of cooking molokhia and eating it with friends and family. “I add it in traditional [Korean] miso soup or as side dishes [banchan] by blanching the leaves and sometimes mixing sesame oil, sugar, and Korean red pepper flakes,” Park says.

    A man in a red shirt holds a plate of a chicken and rice while standing in the middle of the his kitchen.

    Ahmed Saleh holds a plate of chicken and rice, which is one of many ways folks enjoy molokhia.

    You can also grow them yourself. Iman decided to start planting molokhia and other plants used in Palestinian cuisine like wild thyme (sometimes called za’atar, though it is applied differently than the spice mix of the same name) this March. “I felt like it was an act of preservation and resistance when people are trying to erase Palestinians,” Iman says. Globally, Indigenous cultures stress the importance of seed-keeping, and Palestinians are no different. But planting molokhia was difficult in cold Chicago. “[Molokhia] prefers temperatures between 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 degrees Celsius) and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 degrees Celsius) and well-drained, loamy soil rich in organic matter,” says Luay Ghafari, Palestinian gardener and founder of Urban Farm and Kitchen, adding that Chicagoans should start planting the seeds indoors under grow lights “four weeks before the last frost date,” transplanting them into the garden when the chance of frost is over and the soil has warmed.

    “It would get really hot and then it would get really cold again, so I was constantly running them in and out of the apartment when they were little seedlings,” Iman says. Now, the molokhia plants are healthy and mature, nothing like the yield Iman sees from Palestinian fields, but something she’s proud of. Ghafari says molokhia is an annual that can grow several feet tall in optimal conditions. “During harvest season, you often find it sold in large bales because it takes a large quantity of leaves to yield enough quantities for consumption.” But home plants in Chicago like Iman’s don’t yield enough leaves for much besides smaller pots of stew. Iman’s Mexican mother tends to the plants at their family home near the suburbs. “It’s our bonding thing,” Iman says.

    Raeyan’s mother Nancy Roberts, an Arabic translator, typed up Raeyan’s grandmother’s molokhia recipe — the recipe we cooked from — that was passed down through generations. This, too, is a kind of sacred seed-keeping.

    “I plan to pass [recipes] to my children until liberation,” Abdelhadi says. “Mahmoud Darwish said the occupiers fear memories, and Palestinians have made memory a national pastime.”

    After running around in the summer heat of Chicago in search of stories about this plant, what were my memories of molokhia? They weren’t Rachel’s, Raeyan’s, Iman’s, or Laith’s — memories of childhood, family, heritage. But I was building a relationship with molokhia.


    A colleague once said, “Palestine lines my mind.” I never forgot it because it so aptly described these past 10 months for me. Now, somehow, molokhia had settled there too, becoming part of my memory of this brutal time, intertwining with Palestine, with Gaza. “It was very bad today,” Hisham says quietly when I mentioned Gaza during our interview, referring to the Israeli airstrike that day in al-Mawassi, a designated “safe zone,” that killed over 100 people in a matter of minutes, most of them children. In every interview I did for this article, the genocide either kept coming up or the tension was thick as it was talked around. So how could writing about molokhia ever just be about food? How could researching, eating, and making molokhia not make Palestine fill my mind, and enter my dreams?

    One night I dreamt that Rachel, Raeyan, and I were bustling around my kitchen making molokhia, me sifting the leaves with henna-stained hands, Raeyan stirring by the stove, Rachel chopping garlic. My friend Omar was in the kitchen too, watching. It was almost an exact replica of how we had looked when we cooked it.

    Except Omar doesn’t live in Chicago. He is in Gaza.

    The day of the dream, Omar told me the bombing was heavy; he might not live through the night.I hope you live. May Allah protect you,I messaged back. The next sunrise, I got a reply. Alhamdulillah. Thank God. Omar was still alive. For months, this has been the cadence of our messages. I may not live through this night. I hope you live. May Allah protect you. Alhamdulillah.

    There was a night when, after we all saw yet another horrific image of a Palestinian person’s body mutilated by Israeli attacks and U.S. weapons, it was suggested, I forget by whom, that we go to Lake Michigan and scream. When we got there, we were silent for a long time. It wasn’t embarrassment, but the fear that God had stopped listening to our screams. What evidence did we have otherwise? Then, almost in unison, we screamed, the sound carrying over the water. And I have to believe we were heard.

    Naaood lal tareekh. Let us go back to history. Nataqadam lal horeya. Let us go forward into freedom.

    Nylah Iqbal Muhammad is a James Beard-nominated travel, food, and entertainment writer with bylines in New York Magazine, Travel + Leisure, and Vogue. You can follow her on Instagram, Substack, and Twitter/X.

    Nylah Iqbal Muhammad

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  • That’s the Way Life Is

    That’s the Way Life Is

    Will Arnett used to leave BoJack Horseman recording sessions feeling disoriented. He’d step outside a dark Hollywoo(d) studio blinded by late-morning sunlight. As he walked to his car, he’d start to sweat. The caffeine from the coffee he’d just drunk would buck in his empty stomach. All the while, he’d be struggling to shake his character’s pathologically antisocial behavior. “This guy’s just been really shitty to someone in some fucked-up scenario,” Arnett says. “And I’m like, ‘What? How am I going to go on with the rest of my day?’”

    Hey, that’s life as the voice of a depressed, self-loathing, alcoholic, anthropomorphic horse: Occasionally, you sink into the depths with him. “There were days where I’d come home really bummed out, and I’d be like, ‘What is life, man?’” says Raphael Bob-Waksberg, the show’s creator. “And I’d go to work the next day like, ‘Oh, right. I’m watching this really depressing episode all day.’ It’s seeping into my brain.”

    On first look, BoJack Horseman was a satirical story of a washed-up sitcom star desperate to be famous again. But it was more than the tale of one unhappy equine. It was an existential comedy about people, some of whom happen to be animals, figuring out how to live without letting their piled-up baggage weigh them down. “That’s just such a unique point of view: to realize that each day, we get out of bed and we have a certain amount of damage that we are all either trying to protect our friends and colleagues from or protect ourselves from,” says executive producer Steven A. Cohen. From the beginning, it was clear that in the show’s world, like in the real world, damage can’t be reversed. When the ottoman in BoJack’s living room catches fire, it stays burned out in every subsequent episode. “Things like that, which were such small pitches at the time, were showstoppers,” Cohen adds. “Because you’re like, ‘That’s the way life is.’”

    There were dozens of smart and funny animated series in the decades before it, but BoJack Horseman was different: It was built for prestige TV. It had a hard-to-pull-for antihero as toxic as Tony Soprano or Don Draper, an anti-feel-good sensibility, a unique visual style, and the ear of critics. But even while exploring serious topics—the Wikipedia page lists 12 hot-button issues it covered, and that’s a low estimate—the adult cartoon didn’t veer into self-seriousness. And it could’ve come about only during the brief time in the early 2010s when media conglomerates, in pursuit of building big streaming platforms, were willing to take chances on quirky ideas. Today, the show about a horse would be considered, well, a unicorn.

    Over six seasons, BoJack got really real, really often. Yet as heavy as it was, it had a unique knack for finding room for jokes. “That’s one of the things I’m proud of with the show, is that 77 episodes deep, it was still really silly and goofy and cartoony while also being very dramatic and melancholy and intense the whole way through,” Bob-Waksberg says. “I never felt like we could choose one tone. It was always kind of both things.” BoJack tapped into an eternal truth: When you’re drowning, sometimes the only thing you can do to stay afloat is laugh at your predicament.

    Late in the first season of the show, there’s a flashback to a fresh-faced BoJack and his friend and creative partner Herb Kazzaz—whom BoJack later screws over—sharing a moment at the Griffith Observatory. They look out at Los Angeles, and Herb says, “I see a city that you and I will run someday. And when we’re both famous and have everything we’ve ever wanted, we’ll come back here together and high-five.”

    The scene, more or less, was ripped from Bob-Waksberg’s life. When he was new to L.A., he’d hike Griffith with friends, look out at the city, and snarkily wonder about the future. “We used to say, tongue planted firmly in cheek, ‘Someday we’re going to own this town,’” he says. “That was the thing we would do. We were like characters on Entourage.” Or The Lion King. “One day,” he adds with faux gravitas, “everything the light touches will be yours, Simba.”

    That was a decade and a half ago. Back then, Bob-Waksberg would’ve laughed in the face of anyone who told him that his success was preordained. The dream of BoJack Horseman was alive, but in the way a zombie is alive. “BoJack was the development that wouldn’t die,” he says. “It was like two years I was bouncing around this thing, and there were points where I was like, ‘Why am I still spending time on this?’”

    Bob-Waksberg was working on the project with Tornante, the studio founded by former Walt Disney chairman Michael Eisner. His spec script had initially impressed two development executives at the company, Cohen and Noel Bright. “In this town, everything starts with somebody sending us something to read,” Cohen says. “And the very first thing we read of his … it’s from the same writer today. You can see the hallmarks. He’s just a gifted storyteller.”

    Cohen and Bright quickly set up a meeting with Bob-Waksberg. “When you sit with Raphael, he’s just as gifted in person, and you can see his brain working and when he’s excited, because his body starts moving and his hands start moving,” Cohen says. That day, Bob-Waksberg, hands in motion, told them a story about the time he went to a beautiful home in Laurel Canyon for a party that, to him, was anything but festive. “He was feeling completely alone and divorced from the magic reality that is Hollywood,” Cohen says, “and realizing like, ‘What does this all mean? And who are these people?’ … It’s 10 years later, and I don’t have those answers. And that’s uniquely Raphael, to just basically provoke you into thinking about something for 10 years.”

    Eisner didn’t go to the meeting. “It was not Steven Spielberg,” he says with a smile. Afterward, though, he briefly met Bob-Waksberg and asked what show he was pitching. “Just tell me in one or two sentences the best idea,” Eisner recalls saying. “He said, ‘Well, it’s a comedy about a character who has the head of a horse and the body of a man.’” Eisner, who used to get a kick out of Mister Ed back in the ’60s, loved it. “I said, ‘Yeah, we’ll do it,’” Eisner says. “That’s how long it took.”

    The show that Bob-Waksberg wanted to make was constantly asking, “What does this all mean?” The full premise wasn’t all that complicated: “BoJack the Depressed Talking Horse.” In fact, that’s exactly how he described it in an email to a friend in Brooklyn, cartoonist and illustrator Lisa Hanawalt. They both grew up in Palo Alto, California. “I knew who he was in middle school because he was in school plays and because he was loud and weird,” Hanawalt says. “Which is my favorite kind of person.” Bob-Waksberg wrote Hanawalt because he needed an artist to help bring BoJack to life. Luckily for him, Hanawalt had always loved horses. In early 2010, a few months before he reached out about his show idea, she’d made a comic about a horse person.

    “I looked at his pitch, and I was like, ‘This looks really depressing. I don’t know about this. I’m into things that are less depressing,’” Hanawalt says. “And he was like, ‘OK, cool.’ But now I actually like the depressing aspects of it a lot. I take it back.”

    With Hanawalt’s blessing, Bob-Waksberg downloaded a bunch of animal drawings from her website and showed them to Cohen and Bright. “I kind of put them in a little envelope, and I brought it with me and said, ‘This is the show I want to make, with these guys,’” he says. The execs loved the concept and asked for an outline. “I was frantically Googling, ‘What does an outline of a TV episode look like?’” Bob-Waksberg says. “I sent in this thing, and Steve was like, ‘This is not an outline, but sure, go write your draft now.’”

    Bob-Waksberg eventually came back with something more fleshed out. “Everything that came in was so true to form,” Bright says.

    “All of a sudden, we realized that Raphael was different from everybody else,” Eisner says. “Somebody like Raphael comes along once a decade, if that.”

    That original script treatment included what became the pilot’s opening scene: Charlie Rose interviewing a drunk, defensive BoJack about his long-ago-canceled sitcom, Horsin’ Around. “For a lot of people, life is just one hard kick in the urethra,” BoJack says. “Sometimes when you get home from a long day of getting kicked in the urethra, you just want to watch a show about good, likable people who love each other, where you know, no matter what happens, at the end of 30 minutes, everything’s gonna turn out OK. Because in real life … did I already say the thing about the urethra?”

    Finding someone to personify a sad horse turned out to be fairly easy: Bob-Waksberg and Arnett had the same manager. “My manager said, ‘Hey, this guy we represent wrote this really cool thing for this animated series,’” Arnett says. “And it’s always a crapshoot. You never know what you’re going to get. I read it and it was like, ‘Wow.’” The actor, who has a uniquely gravelly voice, loved that the series sounded both grounded and ridiculous. “OK, so this guy is kind of a has-been, and he lives in this fucking cliché house in the Hollywood Hills with what’s left of his entourage, which is one moron,” Arnett says. “And then on top of it all, he’s not a guy, he’s a horse.’”

    “The first thing I said to Will—I mean, I was nervous, I guess, to meet a star—was just like, ‘It’s great that you’re cast because you sound like a horse,’” Hanawalt says. “And he’s like, ‘Never heard that one before.’”

    The one guy left in BoJack’s entourage was Todd Chavez, who ended up being less of a moron and more of a sweet and sneakily wise slacker with a million crazy ideas. Kind of like Jesse Pinkman if he’d never met Walter White. Coincidentally, Breaking Bad was almost over, and Aaron Paul was about to be available. “He got this really goofy, silly comedy script, and he did not know this would also go to a dark place,” Bob-Waksberg says. “And so I think he felt like, ‘Oh, this is a ray of sunshine. What a fun break from being in a pit, the slave of neo-Nazis making meth all day.’” Not long after he learned about BoJack, Paul committed to it. “I love that you can laugh and also really have an emotional experience in a single scene of that show,” he says.

    The rest of the main BoJack characters were a mix of humans and animal people. Princess Carolyn (Amy Sedaris) is BoJack’s feline agent who struggles with work-life balance. Like most Labrador retrievers, actor Mr. Peanutbutter (Paul F. Tompkins) is an outwardly cheerful people pleaser. And Diane Nguyen (Alison Brie) is BoJack’s Vietnamese American ghostwriter who deals with depression. (When we spoke, Bob-Waksberg complimented Brie’s performance but reiterated a point that he’s made in other interviews: “I think I was not fully cognizant when I cast her, the limitations I was putting on myself by casting a white actress to play a Vietnamese character. I wasn’t up to the responsibility of writing a Vietnamese character fully. And so part of that is it’s not just the casting, it’s the writing. It’s that I wasn’t thinking about all the dimensions of what this would mean. And I think that, combined with the casting of Alison, was a disservice to the character.”)

    Yet even with all BoJack had going for it, networks weren’t interested. Bob-Waksberg felt like he was rowing a boat with one arm, just going in a circle. “No one’s going to buy this show,” he remembers thinking. “Maybe I’ve outgrown it.” Arnett and Paul, who’d also come on as executive producers, did their best to sell the project, but it seemed futile. “I was part of the pitching process, just kind of calling people that I had relationships with or had a past with and really pushing this thing to get across the line,” Paul says. “And everyone was passing on it.”

    Everyone except one. In the early 2010s, Netflix was no longer just a DVD subscription service. It was gunning to become a real Hollywood studio. To make a big splash—with consumers and creators—it needed to take creative risks, particularly the kind that other networks had long been afraid to take. It had found early success with House of Cards, Orange Is the New Black, and a reboot of Arrested Development but still hadn’t green-lit an animated show. Cohen and Bright happened to know Blair Fetter, a new creative executive at the company. They asked him whether he’d take a look at an animation test put together by Mike Hollingsworth, who became the show’s supervising director.

    “That five-minute test had me hooked,” Fetter says in an email.

    “The questions he asked were ‘Is this going to have Will Arnett in it? Is it going to have Aaron Paul?’” Bright remembers. “I was like, ‘Yes. Yes.’ Those are the easy answers.” Then Fetter asked two more questions: “Does the creator have a vision?” and “Could we hear it?”

    About a month later, Bob-Waksberg had a meeting with Netflix. During his presentation, which lasted more than an hour, he sketched out the entire first season of the show without a single note in front of him. The pitch was years in the making. “That long development process gave me the room to grow as a writer and figure out what kind of stories I wanted to tell in this world so that when the opportunity came,” Bob-Waksberg says, “I would be ready for it.”

    “It felt exactly like the Netflix version of an animated series,” Fetter says. “We were all in.”

    The first season of BoJack Horseman had to be made at a full gallop. After selling the show to Netflix, Bob-Waksberg and his team had about seven months to finish 12 episodes. “Which was wild,” he says. “We had some materials because we’d been developing it for so long, but it was still a mad dash to get that first season done.”

    The process of learning how to create a digitally animated show on the fly was particularly difficult for Hanawalt, the production designer. “I was using watercolor on paper,” she says. “I didn’t know how to draw on the computer at all.” What she did already know how to do was create distinct characters. That helped give the show its unique look.

    “What first drew us in was her attention to attire and wardrobe,” Cohen says. “Drawings of some of the characters that were these anthropomorphic animals but were wearing a tweed jacket with patches and a vest or a tie. And all these different looks that were exciting and different than the traditional animation characters that were wearing one outfit for 30 years.”

    Hanawalt liked playing around with patterns, whether it was the designs on BoJack’s sweaters, the little fish on Princess Carolyn’s dress, or the red arrows on Diane’s jacket. “A lot of the details didn’t come from anywhere in particular,” she says. “It was just me wanting to make them look specific rather than generic.”

    The anthropomorphic cast eventually could’ve filled Noah’s ark, giving the animators the opportunity to conjure up characters like Sextina Aquafina, a dolphin pop star; Amanda Hannity, the editor of Manatee Fair; and Cuddlywhiskers, a hamster and TV producer. Naturally, the show was full of animal references, animal jokes, and animal puns. Yellow lab Mr. Peanutbutter gets anxious when there’s a stranger in his yard. There’s a spear-nosed bartender/marlin at a ’50s diner named Brando who announces the delivery of three beers: “Stella!,” “Stella!,” and “Corona Light.” And Princess Carolyn has dinner with an albino rhino gyno.

    And aside from The Simpsons, no animated series had better—or more numerous—sight gags. Some were broad, like Vincent Adultman, who’s really three kids stacked under a trench coat. Others were of the blink-or-you’ll-miss-it variety, like a party banner that says, “Happy Birthday Diane and use a pretty font.” There were also plenty of running jokes, like when Hollywood became “Hollywoo” in the show after BoJack drunkenly stole the “D” in the famous sign. The way Bob-Waksberg sees it, some of the series’ silliest bits popped because of what Arnett did with them. The showrunner recalls working on the scene where BoJack wakes up hungover and sees the missing “D” in his pool. “The line we wrote for him was ‘D-d-d-damn,’” Bob-Waksberg says. “And I remember being like, ‘OK, we’ll replace this later. This is not a joke,’” he says. “And then Will did it at the table read, and it was so funny and stupid. And so we thought, ‘OK, let’s not touch that.’”

    Like Arnett, BoJack was a veteran sitcom actor with impeccable comic timing. But the character was also, frankly, despicable. Arnett realized that early in the show’s run. He points to a story line in the first season when BoJack is so afraid of losing his lackey Todd that he sabotages his rock opera. “BoJack is so fucking hateful about it,” Arnett says. “That for some reason always sticks out at me because Todd’s so sweet and kind and BoJack is just so unrelentingly BoJack in that moment.”

    While voicing someone with so many ups and downs, Arnett admits that he couldn’t help but think of his own. “It made me think about my own mental health a little bit, for sure,” he says. “A lot of it felt like it’s a cautionary tale.”

    Over the years, Arnett has spoken candidly about his own sobriety. “I’ve often thought about how prescient it was of Raphael to write this,” Arnett says. “And I went through my own struggles, which I talked about with Raphael. I was like, ‘God, it’s so odd to do this thing, to play this guy.’”

    Still, Arnett is not BoJack. Despite what some misguided fans might think. Several years ago, the actor had a house built in Beverly Hills. It had a pool. “People were like, ‘I saw photos of Will Arnett’s house, it’s just like BoJack!’” Arnett says. “And I’m like, ‘Motherfucker, shut up.’ By the way, we need to take the internet apart.”

    At midnight on August 22, 2014, Netflix released the entire first season of BoJack Horseman. “We all waited up and watched the first couple of episodes,” Bright says. The next morning, the producers started hearing that some viewers had seen all 12. That shocked them. After all, binge-watching TV was still a relatively new phenomenon. “That was something that we all looked at each other like, ‘This is unbelievable,’” Bright adds. “We just spent four and a half or five years working on this show. It premiered. And the next day, people were like, ‘I love the season.’” Most critics agreed: Writer Alan Sepinwall called the show “something that simultaneously functions as both lunatic farce and melancholy character study.” Four days after the first season dropped, Netflix announced that it was renewing the animated series for a second season.

    These days, studios cancel promising shows with ruthless efficiency. But back then, streaming companies gave new series more time to build an audience. Even though BoJack didn’t have as many viewers as Game of Thrones, Netflix got behind it. That faith was a gift to its fans, a group that grew as time went on. “People that stayed with it and watched the show and got the show came to love it,” Bright says. “And it was really fun to see that happen.”

    Viewers stuck with a series that stayed funny, but became less fun. BoJack’s depression worsens. He mistreats the people closest to him, repeatedly crosses the line with young women, and pathetically clings to the hope that he’ll once again become an A-lister. He reminded Eisner of an older American comedian he once ran into at a hotel in England. When Eisner asked what the comic was doing there, he replied that it was the only place he still got recognized. “BoJack was a big star,” Eisner says. “All he wants to do is be in the movie Secretariat, which he can’t get because he’s no longer a star. He spent all his money. He’s living a life of memories. He’s gotten himself involved with bad things, drugs and alcohol. He still has an agent. And it is a metaphor for anybody who’s had success and is now forgotten.”

    To Bob-Waksberg, BoJack was, in some ways, like an exorcism: “I could get out some of my darker feelings into this show,” he says. But as sad as the series could be, he wasn’t trying to fetishize bleakness. He recalls a note a fan sent him after Season 4. “Which has one of our more hopeful endings,” Bob-Waksberg says. “But he had just seen Episode 11, and he emailed me saying, ‘I understand what your show is trying to tell me: Life is bitter and hopeless and it’s never going to get better, and I should stop hoping that it’ll get better or try to make it better. It’s just one slow slog down the drain.’” Bob-Waksberg responded by telling him to please watch Episode 12. “And then he did. He’s like, ‘I feel much better now.’ I was like, ‘OK, good.’”

    As the series moved along, everyone in BoJack’s orbit tried to pull themselves up from the depths, even if it seemed impossible. As they grew, so did the show—both thematically and narratively. The audience got an inside look at every major character’s psyche, including Todd’s. Paul was touched when the kind goofball became TV’s most prominent asexual character. “I love that they decided to just tackle his identity and [him] trying to understand, wrap his own hands around like, ‘Wait, who am I truly? Who am I?’” Paul says. “And then obviously he realized, ‘Oh, I’m asexual.’ He didn’t even know that was a thing. And so many people come up to me, and I can tell right away that they want to talk to me about BoJack and specifically about asexual identity. And a lot of people said, ‘Look, I didn’t even know that was a thing. I just knew that I was different and I was just trying to find my place, and you really shined a light on something that I didn’t even really know existed, even though I’m living in that skin.’ It’s pretty amazing.”

    Bob-Waksberg and the writers weren’t afraid to try new things. “At the beginning of just about every season, Raphael would pitch us a bold idea for one episode somewhere in the upcoming season,” says Fetter, now vice president of scripted series at Netflix. “He would pitch it off the cuff, and it always felt like it was going to be a terrible episode, leaving us skeptical. But inevitably, he would execute that big idea in such a mind-blowing way.”

    One of those episodes barely had any dialogue. And it was set underwater. “I said, ‘Really?’” Eisner recalls. Bob-Waksberg told him yes. That idea became Season 3’s hypnotic “Fish out of Water.”

    Then there was Season 5’s showstopper. Bob-Waksberg had always liked monologues. He wondered whether he could pull off an episode that was one long speech. “Just Will talking for 25 minutes,” he says. In the Emmy-nominated “Free Churro,” which Bob-Waksberg wrote, BoJack gives a wrenching eulogy at his abusive mother Beatrice’s funeral.

    At most table reads, Arnett goofed around with Tompkins and Sedaris. This was different. He was the only actor there. “I thought, ‘I wonder how this is going to go. I guess we’re about to find out,’” he recalls. “And it was just very strange. And then reading it out loud, it worked. Which is just such a testament to how strong the material was.”

    That day, the room was completely silent. “You could hear a pin drop,” Bob-Waksberg says. “It was just like everyone was on the edge of their seats. It was such this beautiful, intimate thing. It was incredible.”

    In 2019, Netflix announced that the sixth season of BoJack Horseman would be its last. “It was such a dream job, and we were hoping to do it forever,” Paul says. “And so it was a bit of a hard pill to swallow when Netflix said, ‘Look, we love you, but we’re going to do one more season, and that’ll be it.’”

    While making the final BoJack episodes, Bob-Waksberg didn’t allow himself to be wistful. He still had an ending to write. “It’s hard to internalize this idea of appreciating what you have while you have it,” he says. “There are moments where I enjoyed it, where I was having fun, where I thought, ‘This is cool. We’re doing something great. Look at me. I’m at TV fantasy camp.’ But I felt so much pressure all the time. Every season I thought, ‘This season has to top the last season, or people are going to hate us. People are going to hate me. This is the time where I let everybody down.’”

    But that time never came. In the last scene of the series finale, BoJack and Diane have an intimate conversation on a roof. “Because we’d set up that imagery earlier, and that felt like something we kept coming back to,” Bob-Waksberg says. The question he had was “How do we get to that roof?”

    Well, first BoJack hits bottom. After breaking into his old house, he nearly drowns in the pool. Then he’s sent to prison. He sees the sentence as comeuppance for a lifetime of shitty behavior. When he gets out of jail, he’s relieved to find that all the important people in his life have freed themselves from his grip. And BoJack, it seems, has freed himself from his own desperate need for validation. “I liked the idea of this final line, which Diane says, ‘It’s a nice night.’ And BoJack says, ‘Yeah, this is nice,’” Bob-Waksberg says. “Because it felt like so much of BoJack the character is him regurgitating the past or having anxiety about the future. And one of his difficulties is just being present in the moment. And so in a small way, giving him that, right at the end of the series, felt pathetic and rewarding and appropriate.”

    “I think Raphael is right,” Arnett says. “BoJack spent so much time and the show spent so much time looking back at what made him so flawed and so worried about how he was going to be perceived and how he could manipulate people in situations. I think at the end of the day, all of that was sort of futile.” Arnett knew that BoJack was never going to be redeemed. “He wasn’t given the tools to mature and grow up, and we sort of see why. So how could we expect him to be this great guy?” he says. “I always thought it was kind of a miracle that he ended up being a functioning person at all.”

    If there’s one thing that Arnett took from playing BoJack, it’s this: “Be honest with yourself about where you’re at. That’s what it taught me. I don’t always get it right, but I think I’m getting better at it.”

    As the discussion of mental health issues has become less stigmatized in America in the 10 years since the show premiered, dozens of TV series and movies have depicted people dealing with past trauma and depression. But few, if any, have resonated quite like BoJack Horseman. “That’s one of the best shows that I’ve been in any way involved with in, I don’t know, 50 years,” says Eisner, who had a hand in Happy Days, Cheers, and Family Ties.

    There’s a reason why Netflix’s Hollywood office has a big conference room named after the show. “I do think that BoJack Horseman showcased our ability to push boundaries in different mediums and certainly jump-started more animation and comedy in general,” Fetter says. “It’s probably the series most writers tell me they love all these years later.”

    In the middle of working on BoJack, Hanawalt bought her first horse. “I found her on Facebook,” she says. “It was an impulsive purchase.” She also got her own anthropomorphic, animal-centric show, Tuca & Bertie, which ran for three seasons between Netflix and Adult Swim. Hanawalt hopes that there’s still a place for the kind of series like hers, the kind of series that BoJack helped usher in. “I want there to be room for more experimentation and a little weirder stuff,” she says. “I like that. Keep it weird.”

    Right now, Bob-Waksberg is working on his next project. This time, he plans to put a little less pressure on himself this time around. He’s come a long way in the past five years.

    Before the last half season of BoJack Horseman was released, there was a premiere at the Egyptian Theatre in Hollywood. Bob-Waksberg took the stage to start the screening, with a note written down to himself at the top of his speech. Take a breath and take in this moment.

    “Because I felt like I hadn’t done that for the entire run of the show,” Bob-Waksberg says. “That’s something that I’ve tried to take with me since then, to not get so—like BoJack—hung up on the future or the past that I forget to be in the present.”

    Alan Siegel

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  • The Return of Hannibal Lecter, the Trump Hack, and a ‘Hard Knocks’ Check-In With Alan Siegel

    The Return of Hannibal Lecter, the Trump Hack, and a ‘Hard Knocks’ Check-In With Alan Siegel

    Hello, media consumers! Bryan welcomes The Ringer’s own Hollywood bureau chief, Alan Siegel. They both share some of their lukewarm takes on the media and the following subjects:

    • Donald Trump’s love affair with Hannibal Lecter (01:31)
    • The Donald Trump hack: documents sent to Politico emails (8:42)
    • A sports documentary check-in on Hard Knocks and Receiver (18:15)
    • The essence of cable news (28:01)
    • Australian B-girl Raygun breaks her silence (37:26)
    • Alan closes out with a few of his only-in-journalism words (43:22)

    Plus, David Shoemaker Guesses the Strained-Pun Headline.

    Host: Bryan Curtis
    Guest: Alan Siegel
    Producer: Brian H. Waters

    Subscribe: Spotify / Apple Podcasts / Stitcher / RSS

    Bryan Curtis

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  • Chicago’s New Kings of Barbecue Reign in Beverly

    Chicago’s New Kings of Barbecue Reign in Beverly

    Welcome to the Scene Report, a new column in which Eater Chicago captures the vibe of a notable Chicago restaurant at a specific moment in time.


    Locals can scream to the top of their lungs that Chicago has a distinctive barbecue style, chefs can hold panels, and writers can publish explainers to try to educate and even bridge the North and South Side divide. But Chicago is a city where many are unaware of barbecue history, and it’s not shocking that few outside the 312 and 773 area codes will truly acknowledge aquarium smokers, sticky tomato-based sauces, and tip-link combos.

    But a pitmaster must exude confidence without allowing perception or history to distract them from the goal of perfectly smoked meats. The crew at Sanders BBQ Supply Co. have demonstrated their prowess since the restaurant opened in June in Beverly. The restaurant is led by James Sanders, a veteran chef who ran a catering business out of a West Side kitchen and who owned Dirty Birds Southern Kitchen, a restaurant serving chicken and fish.

    The smoked meats are delightful, but so are the side dishes.

    Sanders pulled Nick Kleutsch off the deck to join the team as pitmaster. Kleutsch soaked up Central Texas’s barbecue culture in Austin before honing his craft in Indiana where he ran a Texas-stye barbecue pop-up called Lucy’s BBQ from a bar in Highland. The Tribune lauded Lucy’s last year. Sanders isn’t a Central Texas operation. They’re an amalgamation of different styles. The team also includes sous chef Nehemiah Holmes and chef Bill Jones. Here’s the scene at Sanders BBQ Supply around 11:30 a.m. on Saturday, July 27.

    A tray of sliced brisket, ribs, and more.

    The prime brisket and ribs are purchased by the pound.

    Folks carving meat.

    Nick Leutsch is at the carving station with the rest of the crew.

    A sauce stand.

    Make sure to grab the spicy and sweet mustard sauce that is packed with cumin.

    The wait: Over the weekend, Sanders made an Instagram post apologizing for running out of food. But visit Austin, Kansas City, Memphis, or any barbecue-crazed town and customers risk missing out on specialty items if they show up late. The cure to combat this is to set your alarms or calendar reminders. Sanders opens at 11 a.m. Thursday through Sunday. Parking is a breeze along 99th Street. There’s a slight wait, but it’s fun chatting with customers and sharing ordering strategies. On this particular Saturday, the restaurant wasn’t serving links and that’s clearly communicated on the menu board. It took about 20 minutes from waiting in line, watching staff carve up prime brisket and Texas-style smoked beef ribs, to sitting down and having a food runner drop off an order.

    The menu: For all the charm that Chicago’s South and West side barbecue restaurants have to offer, a glance at the food at Sanders shows that diners are in for a different experience. The menu offers both prime brisket and pulled pork by the pound. Chicago barbecue rarely includes so-called beef dino ribs, but for $35 customers can indulge on Saturdays only. These beef ribs are more or less brisket on a bone, and that gives a fattier and more flavorful bite.

    3 menu boards

    The menu with all the goodies.

    The chicken wings are smoked and perfectly charred, glazed with a sticky sweet peach tea sauce. The sauce wasn’t my favorite, but once dunked in the cumin-forward mustard sauce — a concoction Kleutsch brought with him from LeRoy & Lewis in Austin, the wings activate into some of the best in the city. There are two kinds of sausage — cajun and jalapeño cheddar.

    A platter of chicken wings and fries.

    The sweet tea chicken wings are perfectly cooked.

    A platter of barbecue sides: mac and cheese, cornbread, and elotes.

    While customers usually don’t visit a barbecue restaurant for its sides, Sanders’ cornbread and mac and cheese stand on their own.

    A platter of fried fish and fries.

    Fried catfish is also available.

    A word about the pork ribs — they’re fantastic and might be the best in Chicago. They’re St. Louis-cut spare ribs. They’re not doused with sauce. Seemingly, the team found a compromise between Chicagoans’s love for saucy food and more traditional dry-rub barbecue. The meat is tender but does not fall off the bone. There’s plenty of bark and the sauce isn’t providing the smoke. It’s the post-oak burned from a 4,600-pound M&M1000 rotisserie smoker. It’s a pure wood smoker without a gas assist. What that means is this is a serious and top-of-the-line machine. As I walked out of the restaurant, a neighbor greeted me and gushed about the ribs. I consented: If I lived nearby my cholesterol would be in trouble. These ribs are divine. I think about them a lot.

    The sides, like mac and cheese, are also serious. Sanders serves a sweet potato cornbread with a creamy texture inside. If a customer orders one of the two salads, they’ll be treated to a crispy version as the greens are served with sweet potato cornbread croutons. These croutons are outrageous. The smoked burger also looked formidable, but my stomach was full of spare ribs and brisket. Kleutsch insists it’s the best item on the menu.

    Spare ribs

    These St. Louis-cut pork spare ribs come from Iowa.

    The verdict: Sanders BBQ ticks all the boxes. It’s a comfortable place to sit down and enjoy smoked meats. There are two patios with live music. I hear whispers of expansion in the future, but I won’t jinx it. In a city where civic barbecue traditions aren’t celebrated very loudly, Sanders finds itself playing an important role in uniting old and new school philosophies while introducing a whole new generation to a world of tasty barbecue. Sanders has a chance to be one of the best casual restaurants in Chicago, one that customers from all walks of life can enjoy. Even vegetarians — the pulled jackfruit sandwich looks awfully tasty.

    Sanders BBQ Supply Co., 1742 W. 99th Street, open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. — or until they sell out — Wednesday through Sunday.

    The ground is covered with turf.

    Ashok Selvam

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