If you live in a hot climate, growing herbs may seem like a daunting task. Don’t worry, it’s possible! With the right knowledge, you can grow herbs that thrive in the heat. Not only will they add flavor to your meals, but they will also attract beneficial insects to your garden.
In this blog post, I’ll share tips on how to plant, care for, and harvest perennial herbs in hot summer climates so that you can enjoy a bountiful herb garden year-round.
10 Tips for Growing Delicious Herbs in Hot Summer Climates
1. Learn about the herbs you want to grow and the best times to plant
Herbs are classified as annuals, biennials, or perennials.
Annuals complete their life cycle in one growing season. Biennials typically grow the first year, flower, set seed the second year, and then die. Perennials usually live for three years or more.
Harvested rosemary
Living in a hot climate means many herbs are perennial and come back year after year. Plant perennial herbs in the spring and the fall.
Herbs do best with 6-8 hours of sun; afternoon shade is preferred in hot summers. However, many herbs tolerate full afternoon sun even in hot climates like the low desert of Arizona. They include rosemary, lavender, garlic chives, lemongrass, oregano, and basil.
Thyme
That being said, herbs are grown for their leaves, and fruiting isn’t required. If you have a shady spot in your garden, herbs are one crop that will tolerate shade more than other plants.
Herbs that tolerate partial shade (3-4 hours sun) include chervil, cilantro, dill, lemon balm, chives, thyme, ginger, lemon verbena, bay, mint, oregano, sage, and turmeric.
3. Plant in a location with good drainage
Good drainage is essential, especially for Mediterranean herbs like oregano, sage, lavender, rosemary, and thyme. These herbs are adapted to growing in dry, rocky, and well-drained soil.
Sage
Herbs are not tolerant of wet or waterlogged soil, which can lead to root rot and other diseases. To thrive, they require soil that drains easily and allows excess water to escape quickly.
4. Learn how to care for herbs throughout the year
Flowering sage
Year-Round Tips for Perennial Herbs
Spring: Good time to plant. Prune off woody growth. Lightly prune by ⅓ and amend with compost.
Summer: Do not prune much or overwater. Allow plants to go into summer dormancy (survival mode).
Fall: Good time to plant. Lightly prune by ⅓ and amend with compost.
Winter: Reduce watering and harvest less – helps plants go dormant and withstand frost damage.
5. Grow invasive herbs in a container
Herbs with spreading roots that do best in containers are herbs in the mint and oregano families.
10 Tips for How to Grow Herbs in Hot Summer Climates (cont.)
6. Harvest seeds before they drop and spread
Dill seeds
Some herbs, such as chamomile, dill, garlic chives, fennel,and cilantro, produce many seeds that can spread throughout the garden.
Saved seeds
If you want to save the seeds, allow them to dry on the plant, but cut off the seed head before they begin falling off. Store the seed head in a paper sack to continue drying. Learn more about how to save seeds in this blog post.
7. Don’t overfertilize or overwater herbs
Basil
Don’t overfertilize herbs – this promotes lush green growth at the expense of flavor and scent. The herb oils won’t be as concentrated. Adding compost twice a year is plenty.
Don’t overwater herbs – they require less water than vegetables and flowers. Flavor and scent intensify if you water correctly. Herbs are often killed by overwatering.
8. Use herbs to attract beneficial insects
Pests rarely cause significant damage to herbs. On the contrary, herbs are crucial for attracting, feeding, and housing beneficial insects and pollinators to your garden. Plant various herbs throughout your garden and allow them to flower.
Fennel
Beneficial Insect & Pollinator-Friendly Herbs That Grow Easily From Seed:
Use them. The bestthing about growing all of these herbs is you usually don’t have to preserve them. You have ready access to them all year long. Don’t forget to harvest and use them.
Herbs hanging to dry
Harvest herbs regularly, picking lightly all over to encourage bushy growth. Avoid harvesting more than ⅓ of the plant, and aim to harvest just before flowering for the most flavorful herbs. After flowering, cut back the herbs.
Harvested thyme
Herbs generally have the most flavor just before flowering. Use a sharp, clean knife or scissors to harvest. Harvest from all over the plant if possible. After harvesting, wash, rinse, pat dry, or let air dry. Remove leaves from tough stalks and stems.
10. Learn how to preserve herbs
Herbs can be preserved through short-term storage, freezing, drying, and freeze-drying. Each method has unique benefits and is best for certain types of herbs.
If this post about how to grow herbs in hot climates was helpful, please share it:
Knowing how and when to prune peppers in mild-winter climates is essential to keeping them healthy and productive for many years.
In mild-winter climates like where I live (low desert of Arizona zone 9b), pepper plants often live for many years. If left to continue growing, plants get spindly and are prone to breaking. Plants also have damage from the infrequent (but still possible) frost events or the extreme heat in the summer.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
When is the best time to prune peppers in mild-winter climates?
Bell pepper plants in February after several frost events.
The weather extremes of very hot summers and occasional frosts in the winter leave my pepper plants a little haggard. I usually prune pepper plants twice a year. Once in the spring (after the danger of frost has passed) and again in the early fall, once temperatures have dropped from the summer heat.
The September pruning of these peppers resulted in an abundant harvest in late December.
If the plants are a manageable size and healthy, you may only need to prune them once a year.
When pruning peppers, you should focus on removing any dead or damaged growth. This will help to encourage the plant to put more energy into producing fruit rather than putting effort into maintaining unhealthy foliage.
You can lightly prune all over, cutting back to just above a node each time.
What is a node?
Nodes are the points on a stem where the buds, leaves, and branching twigs originate. Identify the nodes on pepper plants by noticing where the branches divide.
If more severe pruning is necessary, cut branches to just above where you see new growth beginning, just above a node. Usually, count up from the bottom of the plant and cut just above the 2nd or 3rd node. Pruning to this point allows light to penetrate the bottom of the plant.
You can also prune back long or thin branches, which are more vulnerable to breakage and can become unwieldy.
Make sure to prune all over the plant for the best results.
After pruning, it’s important to fertilize the pepper plant with a balanced organic fertilizer and to water it well.
Within a couple of days, you should see a burst of growth with an abundance of leaves, followed by blossoms and eventually peppers.
What about pruning pepper seedlings?
Central stalk of this seedling was cut outSeveral days later you can see the new growth below the cut
Topping pepper seedlings is often done to encourage pepper plants to have more of a bush habit with stronger stems. To prune your seedlings, cut the main stem to just above a node.
Cut the central stem to just above a node when plant is several inches tallAfter “topping”
Depending on the type of pepper plant you are growing, this may or may not be necessary. Experiment with different kinds of plants in your garden to see if it improves your yield. I generally “top” most of my pepper plants. I’ve had the best results with pruning large peppers like bell peppers.
How long do pepper plants last in mild-winter climates?
When growing pepper plants, you may find that the quantity of peppers decreases after about three years of successful production. This is a sign that it is time to replace the plants. Save seeds from your favorite peppers to start new plants. Plant a new pepper seedling in a different location and enjoy fresh peppers for many years.
If you live in a mild-winter climate, pruning your peppers twice a year can keep your plants healthy and productive for many years. Good luck and happy pruning!
If this post about how and when to prune pepper plants in mild-winter climates was helpful, please share it:
When I first saw the gorgeous blooms on ranunculus flowers, I didn’t think growing them here in the low desert of Arizona was possible. I’m glad I was wrong. Learning how to grow ranunculus is easier than you think.
The stunning rose-like blooms with tissue-thin petals almost don’t look real. Ranunculus blooms come in nearly every color on tall stems. With these five tips, learn how to grow ranunculus (even if you live in a hot summer climate like the low desert of Arizona).
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Ranunculus
1. Plant ranunculus at the right time
Ranunculus grows best in spring-like temperatures of about 55°F with plenty of sunlight.
In zones seven and warmer, there are two planting windows — late fall and again in late winter or early spring. For zones cooler than zone 7, plant in the spring after the danger of frost is passed.
In the low desert of Arizona, plant ranunculus corms from October to November and again from February to March (Presprout corms if planting in February – March)
October 24November 16November 30January 23March 5March 26
Floret’s top choices for ranunculus varieties are the La Belle Series, which includes Salmon, Champagne, Orange, Pink Picotee, and Pastel Mix.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Soak corms before planting
Ranunculus are grown from claw-like ‘corms’ — a swollen underground plant stem that stores the nutrients for the plant until needed. Look for large corms, which have more stored energy and will grow larger with more blooms. I love the ranunculus corms from Renee’s Garden.
Soak the corms in tepid water for 3 to 4 hours (not longer). The corms will absorb the moisture and often double in size.
3. Plant ranunculus correctly
Ranunculus grows best in rich, healthy, well-draining soil with plenty of sunlight. Add several inches of compost and a balanced organic fertilizer to the soil before planting.
Plant corms 2-3 inches deep and about 6 inches apart. Place ranunculus corms in the ground with the claws facing down. Fill the hole back in with soil and water well.
If you live in a wet climate, you may not need to water again until sprouts appear. Too much moisture in the soil may cause the corms to rot.
In dry climates like the low desert, keep soil evenly moist but do not overwater to prevent the corms from rotting.
Overall, ranunculus is an easy plant to grow and is pest and disease-resistant.
Ranunculus needs plenty of sunlight to grow well. Ranunculus grows best in moist soil but does not like overwatering. If soil is not well-draining, ranunculus corms often rot.
SPECIAL NOTE: All parts of ranunculus are poisonous when ingested. The plant sap may cause skin irritation. Poison is not residual in the soil; only the plant is poisonous.
5. Enjoy ranunculus blooms
Corms planted in the fall typically bloom for about six weeks.Spring-planted corms bloom for about four weeks, depending on the weather. Once temperatures heat up, the blooms will stop.
In the low desert of Arizona, you can expect blooms to begin in February for fall-planted corms and continue through May for spring-planted corms.
For the longest vase life (10-12 days!) harvest when buds are colored and “squishy like a marshmallow” but not yet open. If they are harvested after opening, the blooms last about a week. Use a floral preservative to encourage long vase life.
Deadheading plants encourage more blooms.
When blooms finish, and the leaves begin to yellow and die back, cut the foliage off and stop watering. Allow the corms to dry out and go dormant.
If desired, dig up dormant corms and store them in a cool, dry place until it is time to plant next season.
When growing ranunculus for cut flowers, it is best to treat it as an annual and plant new corms each year.
If you live in a hot summer climate, plant these ten perennial herbs once, and you’ll enjoy harvests for years!
A perennial is a species that completes its life cycle over three or more years, with the ability to survive both winter and summer and can be harvested without killing the plant. Each one of these herbs has survived for several years in my low desert Arizona garden.
Perennial herbs are a simple way to increase production and yield in the garden. Once you plant them, you can harvest them for years to come!
10 Perennial Herbs Every Gardener in Hot Summer Climate Should Grow
1. Bay Laurel
Bay Laurel is a slow grower and can take up to 2 years to establish, but once it does, it can survive for many years.
2. Lemon Grass
Lemon grass is easy to grow and requires very little maintenance. It grows well in partial sun or full sun and well-drained soil.
I like to grow sage in the corner of a raised bed. It prefers well-drained soil with full sunlight. Give this perennial herb a trim in early spring and again at the end of summer to keep it looking it’s best.
When choosing a transplant, rub a leaf to smell the aroma. Choose plants with the most potent aroma for the best flavor. Planting oregano in pots or containers is a great option to prevent spreading.
Thyme is my favorite perennial herb for cooking. I usually grow thyme in several locations throughout my garden. It does best with afternoon shade during the summer.
Mint can spread, so grow in containers. This tough plant often dies back during the hottest months of the year but usually returns with abundant growth in the fall.
Mulch is your secret weapon in the garden. I talk about the need to mulch your garden in nearly every blog post; mulching is that important. This post covers the benefits of mulch, what to use for mulch in different areas of your garden, and the best tips for how to use mulch in your garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Benefits of Mulching your Garden
1. Mulching your garden helps regulate soil temperature
Hot soil is hard on plants. Mulch keeps the sun off the soil, so the soil stays cooler. Thick mulch helps insulate it even more.
Higher soil temperatures slow plant growth, and mulch moderates that temperature.
Mulch shades the soil from the sun’s direct rays causing less temperature variation.
During cooler temps, mulch also helps insulate the soil.
2. Mulching your garden helps slow evaporation
A thick layer of mulch means that less moisture is lost through evaporation. You can then water less frequently, saving water, money, and time!
3. Mulching adds organic matter to your garden
When you add natural mulch in the form of bark, straw, or compost,they are incorporated into the soil and add nutrients and organic matter.
4. Mulching your garden helps prevent and control weeds
Mulching blocks the sunlight needed for weeds to germinate and often smothers existing weeds.
ALL OF THIS TOGETHER MEANS MORE GOOD THINGS GOING ON IN THE SOIL. Increased moisture, fewer temperature fluctuations, and more organic matter lead to more worm activity and more beneficial microorganisms in the soil. That means healthier soil and plants.
Different Types of Mulch:
Compost
Use homemade, bagged, or bulk compost. Compost is high in nutrients and has a finer texture than other mulching options.
A note about fresh animal manure; it must be aged before using it as mulch or compost in the garden.
Where to get it: I make my own and I also love the compost from Arizona Worm Farm.
Composted mulch
Larger texture than regular compost. It is typically made from landscape waste and isn’t completely broken down yet.
Where to get it: Arizona Worm Farm has this available. They call it mulch or city mulch. I also like the bagged composted mulch from A&P Nursery.
Pine needles
Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles.
Pine needles may lower the pH of soil when mixed in with the soil. That may not be bad here in the low desert where our soil tends to be more alkaline. Pine needles become more pH neutral as they break down.
Straw (not hay)
(Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw.
Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily.
Bark / Wood chips
The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds.
These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Grow cover crops in beds when they would otherwise be empty. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.
Cardboard / Newspaper
Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place.
Where to get it: Finally, something to do with all of those Amazon boxes!
Which mulch to use in your garden
Raised and in-ground garden beds:
Smaller-grade organic materials such as compost, composted mulch, shredded leaves, straw, and smaller wood chips are excellent mulch in raised garden beds.
Pathways:
Larger materials last longer in pathways and around raised beds.
Treewells:
All materials are suitable for around trees, but take care to keep mulch away from the base of the tree.
Tips for how to use mulch in your garden
Wait until plants have grown to several inches tall before applying mulch.
Keep mulch about an inch away from the stems of plants.
Add a little extra organic fertilizer below the mulch when using leaves or bark as they can take nitrogen from the soil as they break down.
If you use Garden Grids for watering like I do, put them on top of the mulch. You may have to water a little longer to penetrate the mulch layer.
Plan on applying mulch twice a year in the spring after planting (before the heat of summer), and again after fall planting.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of most mulches. Less than 2 inches doesn’t give you all the benefits, but a larger layer can be difficult for water to penetrate.
If this post about mulching your garden was helpful, please share it:
As a low desert gardener, it’s exciting to learn how to grow a crop that I already use, is good for you, and grows well in warm climates. Ginger definitely qualifies on all three accounts. Learning how to grow ginger is easy, and growing it is even simpler (especially if you live in a warm climate).
Ginger is a heat-loving, tropical perennial herb grown for its bamboo-like leaves and flavorful rhizomes. It is grown as a long-season annual in all but the warmest locations.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
8 Tips for How to Grow Ginger
1. Understand how ginger grows
Ginger is grown from rhizomes. Rhizomes are fleshy stems that spread horizontally underground and contain several buds or growing points. The ginger rhizomes are planted below ground and send up bamboo-like shoots that give energy to the developing ginger below ground.
Ginger shoots emerge from the ground when the weather is nice and warm in the spring. Throughout the long days and warm months of summer, ginger grows well. As the days get shorter and cooler, the leaves turn yellow as the ginger begins to go dormant.
You can buy ginger online from seed companies, but you can also purchase organic ginger from your local market. I get mine at Sprouts. When purchasing ginger rhizomes for planting, look for light-colored, thin-skinned organic ginger that is plump and firm with several bumpy nodules.
To prepare ginger for planting, cut rhizomes into 2″-3″ pieces (each piece containing at least 2 to 3 nodules). Allow cut ends to dry and heal over before planting.
3. Give ginger plenty of time to grow
Ginger needs a long, warm growing season of about 10 months to grow well.
Zones 8 and warmer generally have enough time to start and grow ginger outdoors. Plant outdoors after your last frost date and when the soil warms in the spring. In the low desert of Arizona, plant ginger in March.
Plant rhizomes with nodules pointing up 2″ deep and 6″–8″ apart.
Plant 4 ginger per square foot in square foot gardeningGinger sprouting in the garden
In cooler climates, you will need to pre-sprout rhizomes indoors before planting. Count back 10 months from your first fall frost date. This is the time to begin pre-sprouting your ginger.
To pre-sprout ginger, plant rhizomes 2″ deep in small pots on heat mats. Keep warm and slightly moist (but not soggy; it will rot). Once ginger sprouts, provide supplemental lightinguntil it is warm enough to plant outside. Gradually let plants become accustomed to outdoor conditions for a week and then carefully transplant sprouts to larger containers or garden beds outdoors.
4. Give ginger plenty of warmth
Ginger does not grow well in temperatures below 55°F. Temperatures below freezing cause damage to the leaves and also kills the rhizomes.
In cooler climates, choose your warmest location to plant ginger. Look for an area that gets reflected heat from a block wall. Consider planting ginger in a container. Containers often heat up more quickly in the spring. Move the container to a sheltered location when temperatures fall.
In hot summer locations, provide shade for growing ginger. Although it prefers warm soil, intense sun often damages the growing leaves. Look for an area to plant ginger that receives shade naturally, or provide shade for growing ginger.
5. Give ginger good soil and fertilize as needed
The best soil for ginger is rich in organic matter and well-draining. Rich, loose soil may provide enough nutrients for growing ginger. Mulching the soil with additional compost or straw helps provide nutrients, control weeds, and retain water.
While ginger is growing, you can add a few inches of compost to growing ginger sprouts, similar to “hilling” potatoes. This can encourage more growth in the rhizomes.
If your ginger is not growing well, consider feeding every few weeks with an organic fertilizer such as liquid seaweed or fish emulsion. Testing your soil will help you know exactly what the soil is lacking.
Ginger developing below ground
6. Water ginger correctly
Ginger grows best with regular water, especially when the plant is actively growing. Well-draining soil is important as the rhizomes do not like soggy conditions. Do not overwater. As temperatures cool, reduce watering.
7. Harvest ginger at the right time
In cool climates, harvest ginger all at once before freezing temperatures. In warmer climates, harvest ginger after the leaves begin to yellow and die back. Wait to harvest as long as possible for the largest rhizomes.
To harvest, gently dig up the entire plant.In warm areas, you can leave the ginger in the ground and harvest as needed. Plants will go dormant during the cooler months and shorter days of winter, but new shoots will emerge in the spring.
8. Preserve harvested ginger in a variety of ways
After harvesting ginger, rinse it well and then cut off shoots and large roots. Use the leaves in tea.
Store fresh ginger in the refrigerator or freezer in plastic resealable bags. Unpeeled ginger keeps for about a month in the refrigerator or up to a year frozen.
Dehydrate ginger by peeling (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) and slicing. Dehydrate at 95°F for 8-12 hours or until ginger is crisp and breaks when bent. I use this dehydrator from Amazon.
Sliced ginger before dehydratingSliced ginger after dehydrating
Store dehydrated slices in a glass jar with an airtight lid. Process small amounts of the sliced ginger into powder. Once ground, the powder will begin to lose flavor so grind only a small amount at a time.
Process dehydrated ginger in blender to turn into powderStore dehydrated ginger in sealed glass jars
Process peeled ginger (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) with a small amount of water in the blender.This is the blender I use.
Process young unpeeled ginger in a blenderPulse until smooth
Freeze in herb or ice cube trays. Use individual portions as needed. When processed this way, ginger lasts up to about a year in the freezer.
Freeze in ice cube or herb traysStore frozen cubes in freezer bags for up to 1 year
I’ve spent the last year building new sunken garden beds in Southern Arizona. I live in the Sonoran Desert, about 25 miles from the Mexico border. This region is very hot from May through October. We do get monsoon rains from July through September, but it is very dry otherwise.
The heat, intense sun, and dry conditions create challenging conditions for gardening. However, it is possible to create a productive garden in the desert. I want to share how I’ve been able to do just that.
To begin, I had a few requirements:
Water Efficiency: I needed to find a way to use as little water as possible. I didn’t want to spend several hours and hundreds of dollars every month watering this new space.
Time Efficiency: I needed to find a time-efficient way to maintain my new garden. I work, so a high-maintenance garden was not for me.
Productivity – I wanted to maximize the space to grow as much as possible. This would allow me to eat fresh, organic produce in season.
That’s a tall order for a little desert garden. I began experimenting to find a way to meet all 3 of those requirements.
History of Basin Beds in the Sonoran Desert
I am fascinated by the relationship between people, plants, and places in the Southwest region. The Sonoran Desert is the most biodiverse desert on earth, and I love living here. Isn’t it amazing that 3500 species of plants, 500 species of birds, and 1,000 species of bees call this beautiful region home? I’m learning all I can about the history of this place and the people who thrived in such a beautiful yet challenging environment.
The U.S. Forest Service defines ethnobotany as “the study of how people of a particular culture and region use indigenous (native) plants.”
Through Gary Nabhan’s book, I began learning about many different gardening methods in arid climates. One of them stood out as a possibility for my garden: basin beds, also known as sunken beds.
What is a sunken garden bed or basin bed?
Basin or sunken garden beds were used by the indigenous peoples in this part of the Southwest. Basin beds function just as any traditional garden bed or raised bed, but are recessed or sunken.
Sunken beds are dug down several inches, allowing irrigation water to slowly sink in rather than run off and keep soil and roots cooler during hot seasons.
Since I didn’t have to construct a raised bed, the start-up costs were low. Using a basin-style sunken bed would help me with the water and heat challenges, but what about the time efficiency and productivity piece?
I’m sure many of you have heard of the square foot gardening method, introduced in 1981 on a wide scale when Mel Bartholomew published his book, “Square Foot Gardening.” In this book, Bartholomew introduced a straightforward method to save time, effort, and space in gardening.
Instead of long rows and wide paths between, he focused on using a 4ft by 4 ft square to grow intensively in a small space. Along with the 4×4 design, Bartholomew increased productivity through intercropping, succession planting, and amending the soil. If you haven’t read this book and want to garden in a small space, on a small budget, or with a busy life, I highly recommend it.
I combined the two methods, sunken basin beds and square foot gardening, into one hybrid method. Maybe then I could get all the benefits of each.
Sunken Garden Beds Step One: Test Your Soil
An in-ground garden bed will only be as good as its soil, so the first thing I did was take some soil samples. A local lab tested the soil to give me an idea of the soil makeup and which amendments I needed to add. I chose the “Complete Soil Test with Soil Amendment Recommendations” for $85, which included a nutrient analysis of my soil profile and amendment suggestions.
I started with a very bleak space; not much of anything was growing here, except for wild amaranth and Bermuda grass, so I was surprised when the test results came in a few days later, showing I didn’t need to amend much.
Sunken Garden Beds Step Two: Remove Unwanted Vegetation and Weeds
My chosen garden area had Bermuda grass that needed removal before installing the new beds. The simplest way to remove vegetation is to use solar energy to do the hard work, something we have plenty of in the Southwest.
Two methods create a greenhouse effect and work well for this task: solarization and occultation.
Solarization controls unwanted vegetation by covering the area with clear plastic. The 2 – 6 mil thickness plastic allows solar energy to penetrate, heating up the soil and creating a greenhouse effect that smothers the vegetation in as little as 3 weeks.
Occultation is similar to solarization but uses a black plastic tarp instead of a clear one. This process takes longer as the black material absorbs solar energy and reduces the heat passed to the vegetation. A heavy opaque plastic, called a silage tarp, is used and the process takes 4-6 weeks.
An additional benefit of both solarization and occultation is the reduction of pathogen and nematode populations in the soil below.
I used occultation and laid a thick silage tarp to cook the weeds and seeds underneath for 6 weeks. When I removed the tarp, just like magic, there was nothing but bare earth and some decomposing plant material.
Sunken Garden Beds Step Three: Make a Plan for the Space
I planned just four beds in the beginning. Every gardener knows that plans tend to grow exponentially, and I ended up with twelve beds. For now, let’s focus on those first four beds!
Sunken Garden Beds Step Four: Dig Out Beds and Add Compost
I measured out and marked an exact 4ft x 4ft square. After digging down 6 inches, I removed that soil. I mixed the native soil with compostin a 50/50 mix and then filled the beds with a little of that mixture. I ended up with a bed recessed by about 4 inches.
Now, you may be thinking…“wouldn’t doing that remove all the good soil you had tested?” The answer is…not at all! When doing a soil test, you dig down about 6 inches to the root zone, where the plant will be accessing all that goodness. That is still there once I dig out the top, so what I’m doing is adding some amendment in the form of compost to the top while leaving the soil in the root zone intact.
Sunken Garden Beds Step Five: Create Pathways Between Beds
My backyard is covered in Bermuda grass, and if you’ve ever dealt with it, you know it’s tough to eliminate. I decided to cover the ground with landscape fabric around the garden beds and then layer wood chips to smother and suppress the Bermuda grass. This was after using a silage tarp for occultation before beginning the garden project. That’s how tough it is to get rid of the stuff!
Generally, I don’t like to use landscape fabric. I think it’s best for soil health to cover the ground with a thick layer of untreated wood chips. This keeps weeds in check and adds organic matter to the soil as the wood breaks down. When planning this garden area, I made an exception.
Once the beds were dug and amended, I needed to make a square-foot garden grid. To save time in measuring, I made a template grid that I could use each time I plant a new bed. I used 4ft. green plastic garden stakes, measured and marked 1 ft sections, and fastened them with outdoor-rated zip ties that will withstand the high UV here better. Using a grid template allowed me to plant each square quickly.
I used the tons of rock around my property as a border for all of my garden beds. It’s rustic, but I’m happy with the results. Best of all, it was free!
The next step was to select varieties of plants that are well-suited to this region of southern Arizona. I start nearly all my plants from seed, but if you don’t want to sow seeds, many great organizations in the area sell arid-adapted seedlings at seasonal plant sales.
After moving from the Midwest nearly 20 years ago, one of the first gardening lessons I learned was that what grew there probably won’t grow here. Varieties matter, so choose wisely! There are so many varieties that perform well here. Don’t be afraid to explore!
I planted herbs and flowers amongst my vegetables (polyculture style), hoping this would give a habitat to many different pollinators and beneficial insects.
Sunken Garden Beds Step Eight: Add Mulch and Shade
Next, I added mulch to the top to prevent moisture loss and shade cloth in certain areas.
I use shade cloth when planting new seedlings. The sun here is very intense, and it takes those little seedlings a while to toughen up. Shade cloth is also important to use in certain seasons for established plants.
Adding Long Basin Beds
Late this summer, I dug a new bed – the garden is never done, remember? This time I wanted to experiment with a long basin bed, rather than a 4×4 square. The new garden bed was 3 feet wide and 28 feet long.
I am a little (okay, a lot) obsessed with the beauty and variety of dried beans and wanted to grow them. So, I added a new long bed with a cattle panel down the middle. This would allow me to grow pole beans down the center and other crops along the bottom.
I made the most of that space, growing beans,okra, squash, roselle, and zinnias. This bed became a superhighway of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. It was a great success; I’m putting in a second long bed this fall. Because, you guessed it, the garden is never done!
The Result: A Thriving Garden in the Desert
Overall, I’m so pleased with the results of this gardening season. I’ve happily watched this dusty, bare backyard transform into a space alive with color and the hum of pollinators. I’ve learned a few lessons, of course, that I’ll change next season, but that’s true of any garden. I don’t think a garden is ever truly finished – there is always something new to learn and just one more plant to add.
Most importantly, I’ve done almost no weeding and only had to water the beds twice a week during the hottest part of the year. As the temperatures cool, I will change the watering schedule to once a week. This winter, I’ll install rainwater harvesting tanks to water the garden, reducing the water I must pay for.
Sunken garden beds are an effective, water-wise, efficient, and affordable option for any space
Even if you have a small space, one of these sunken square-foot garden beds will allow you to grow a surprising amount of food.
If you have little money to start a garden, this method can fit any budget.
If you’re short on time, gardening this way can be done in just a few minutes a day.
I hope this encourages you that any space, no matter the size, the climate, or the time constraints, can be a place for you to sow your dreams.
Kara Adams is a gardener and writer from the Southwest who is passionate about the interconnection between plants, people, and places. Her love for all things growing has blossomed into a lifelong commitment to the art and science of gardening.
Kara is an advocate for sustainable gardening practices and environmental stewardship. She creates written content and educational videos on Sonoran Desert plants, gardening practices, and soil health. Her topics include organic gardening, pollinator-friendly landscapes, and water-efficient gardening practices. Follow Kara on her journey through the garden, where her love for it continues to bloom, one word and video at a time. You can follow along with her journey on YouTube and Instagram.
If this post about how to garden in sunken basin beds was helpful, please share it:
“Welcome sweet November, the season of senses and my favorite month of all.”
Gregory F. Lenz
The Arizona garden in November is a beautiful place to be. In the low desert, the cooler temperatures of November bring a less frantic pace to the garden. Much of the fall planting was done in September and October, with some harvests beginning this month. Favorites like sweet potatoes and pomegranates are finally ready for harvesting in November as well. Spending time in your Arizona garden in November is one of the reasons we love to live in Arizona!
Keep reading for garden inspiration, a low desert November garden checklist, and a list of which vegetables, herbs and flowers to plant in your low desert Arizona garden in November.
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in November
Tomatillos are often ready for harvest this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow tomatillos.
Eggplant harvests continue during November. Read this article for more information about how to grow eggplant.
Beans planted in July – September are producing. Pick beans often to encourage production.
Cucumbers planted in mid-August through September are producing. Pick cucumbers young and often to encourage production.
Brassicas (which include broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and kale) are all growing well in the garden this month. Look to harvest when young and tender for best taste. Continue to succession plant through the end of the year.
Luffa is growing well in the garden this month. Harvest luffa when less than 6 inches long if you want to eat it. When growing luffa in the garden for the sponge, leave it on the vine until it is yellow and feels lightweight and hollow. For more information on growing luffa, read this post.
Radishes are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. Radishes that were planted back in September are ready to harvest. Continue to plant radishes through April for a continual harvest.
Flowers growing in the low desert Arizona garden in November
Check the end of this post for a list of cool-season flowers that do well in Arizona. Many of them can be planted in November. Petunias planted now will thrive until it gets hot in April or May.
Coral Vine (Queen’s Wreath) continues to put on a show this month. Enjoy the bees and beautiful blossoms of this frost-sensitive, vigorous vine. Cut back to the ground in February, and it will return quickly each year.
Consider adding cool-season edible flowers to your vegetable garden. Nasturtiums (pictured here), borage, calendula, and pansies are all edible, attract pollinators, and add beauty to the garden. This article teaches how to grow nasturtiums.
Sunset cosmosPurple hyacinth beanOrange Tecoma in bloomRussian sage and guara in bloomDesert milkweed attracting wildlifeFall rose in bloom
Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in November
Pomegranatesare ready to harvest this month. Check for a deep red skin color and splitting of skins. Most varieties are sweetest when the arils (seeds) are deep red.
Lemons, calamondin, and limes are beginning to ripen this month, with more citrus to come in December, January, and into spring.
For more information about growing citrus read this article.
Many varieties of figs are ready to harvest in your Arizona garden in November. Figs do not continue to ripen once picked. For ripe fruit check for soft fruit and the aroma of nectar.
Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in November
Lemon Grass
Low desert Arizona garden in November to-do list:
If you put smaller containers away for the summer, November is an excellent time to bring them back out. Fill containers with soil and plant bulbs and other annuals.
Water trees and shrubs deeply but less often than in warmer temperatures. Water no more than every 10-14 days. Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.
Prune dead branches out of frost-hardy trees and shrubs.
Plant cold-tolerant trees, bushes, and perennials. For a list of over 200 landscape plants that do well in Arizona, visit amwua.org. A few ideas include penstemon, globe mallow, Chaparral sage, and Mexican honeysuckle.
If queen palms did not survive summer weather, consider replacing them with something different. Queen palms are not adapted to growing in the low desert of Arizona.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Flower seeds to start indoors during November
(Click the link for seed sources.)
If this post about gardening in Arizona during November was helpful, please share it:
