In this post, I answer common questions about how to grow pomegranates successfully, including how to plant and care for pomegranates, how to eat pomegranates, and questions about typical problems with pomegranates such as dried out or rotten fruit, and what to do about leaf-footed bugs.
I’ve partnered with Kellogg Garden to bring you this post about how to grow pomegranates.
One of the oldest cultivated fruits, there are literary references to pomegranates dating back to Old Testament times and beyond. Pomegranate fruit has leather-like smooth skin that ranges from pink and green to red and brown surrounding the arils.
Arils are the edible part of the fruit and are surrounded by sweet, juicy pulp. Even without the nutritious fruit, pomegranates are a beautiful tree that provide shiny green foliage, crimson blossoms, and stunning yellow foliage each year just before the leaves fall.
Pomegranate leaves turn yellow before they fall
Heat-loving and drought-tolerant pomegranate trees are especially suited to growing in warm arid regions such as parts of Arizona and California. Learn how to grow a pomegranate tree and enjoy it for years.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
11 of your top “How to Grow Pomegranates” questions answered:
1. Is a pomegranate a bush or a tree?
Typically pomegranates are grown as a tree, but they can be grown as a large bush by allowing suckers to grow, and keeping it pruned for size.
Prune as trees by selectively removing suckers and training it into a multi-trunked tree. [/right]Either way you choose to grow them, pomegranates (Punica granatum) are deciduous with a height and spread of 12 to 20 feet. Dwarf varieties can be grown in large containers.
2. What type of pomegranate should I plant?
Choose a type suited for your climate (some do well in cooler zones), and choose dwarf varieties for containers if you want to move them to protected locations for the winter.
Balegal – Large fruits with pale pink skin; sweet flavored flesh, hardy to zone 7.
Crab – Medium to large fruit with bronze skin; tart but rich flavor; productive.
Early Wonderful – Large fruits with thin red skin; tart flavor; very productive.
Granada – Medium fruit with crimson skin; semi-sweet; matures early; hardy to zone 7.
Sweet – Medium fruit with pink skin; green skin with red flush; very sweet; productive; bears at a young age.
Utah Sweet – Medium-sized fruit with pink skin; sweet flavor and soft seeds; pink flowers.
Wonderful – Large fruits with red skin; tangy, flavorful, soft seeds; large red flowers; productive. This variety grows well in the low desert of Arizona.
3. How do you plant pomegranates?
It’s best to plant trees in the spring or fall in warm places like Arizona.
Pomegranates need plenty of sun to thrive and produce fruit. Look for an area that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun.
Good drainage is crucial for pomegranate trees, but they tolerate almost any soil, even poor or alkaline ones.
Plant pomegranates in a hole as deep as the nursery pot and twice as wide.
In cooler climates, grow pomegranates near a south-facing wall or in a large container that can be moved to a protected location during cold weather.
4. How do you care for pomegranates?
Pomegranate trees are generally easy to care for, requiring minimal maintenance once planted.
Water newly-planted trees more often until established. Water pomegranates deeply during the heat of the summer.
Fertilize pomegranates just as they leaf out (around February) with a large covering of compost (preferred) or use an organic fertilizer 2-3 times per year.
For the first 3 years, it is recommended to shorten shoots to encourage a strong, sturdy plant.
Pruning pomegranate trees is not necessary. However, if desired you can prune pomegranates for size, to remove crossing branches and suckers, or to train against a wall or trellis.
The best time to prune pomegranate trees is after they have dropped all their leaves, just before they begin to leaf out in the spring. Pomegranate trees can also be pruned lightly throughout the year.
Thin pomegranate fruit to 1 fruit about every 6 inches. Thinning the fruit promotes large fruit and prevents limb damage from heavy fruit.
5. It’s spring and my pomegranate tree still doesn’t have leaves; is it dead?
Be patient. Pomegranate trees are often slow to leaf out each spring. However, if you had temperatures lower than 10 °F, your pomegranate tree may have experienced frost damage. Wait until late spring to see if one or more of the trunks are damaged. Remove dead wood.
6. I had plenty of blossoms but no fruit; what is wrong with my pomegranate tree?
Pomegranate trees begin to yield fruit about 3 years after planting. More mature plants hold onto the flowers and fruits better (less drop). Conditions that adversely affect yield in older trees include excess watering, poor drainage, over-fertilization, and not enough sunlight.
Cross-pollination is not required with pomegranate trees, but planting more than 1 tree (even the same type) can increase fruit set.
7. How can I tell when a pomegranate is ready to harvest?
Different varieties of pomegranates begin to be ready beginning in August through November.
Learn when the typical time and color of ripeness is for your type of tree.
The color of the rind and arils are good indicators that pomegranates are ready to pick.
As the pomegranate ripens it changes from being perfectly round to more hexagonal in shape as seeds swell.
The stem and blossom ends of the fruit begin to flatten.
The fruit’s skin changes from a glossy sheen to more of a matte or rough finish.
Ripe fruits easily twist off the stem. (it’s best to cut fruit off the tree)
Still not sure? Try one to see if it’s ripe.
If fruit begins to split – it’s time to harvest!
Ripe fruits left on the tree will often fall – telling you it’s time to harvest!
Listen for a metallic sound when you tap the fruit to help determine readiness.
Once fruits ripen on tree, do not leave on the tree as they may begin to split.
What’s the best way to eat a pomegranate?
Here is my favorite method:
To quickly harvest pomegranate seeds: cut the pomegranate in half, score each ridge on the outside rind, and hold it in your hand (peel side up) over a bowl of water. Hit the rind with a flat wooden spoon – the seeds should fall into the bowl and leave just a few seeds in the rind.
Fruit that is left on the tree too long can begin to split.
Splitting fruit can also be caused by fluctuations in soil moisture. Mulch pomegranate trees well to help keep soil evenly moist.
Water on nearly-ripe fruits can cause splitting.
10. Why does my pomegranate fruit look rotten inside?
Pomegranates are susceptible to Alternaria fruit rot and Aspergillus fruit rot; both cause the fruit to rot as fungus can grow inside fruits after rainfall.
Leaf-footed bugs can carry a fungal yeast that may cause arils to darken and wither.
Be diligent about removal of old fruit, cracked fruit, and dead branches to reduce the incidence of the fungus.
Avoid overwatering and water stress which can cause cracked fruit and allow entrance for the disease.
11. What can I do about leaf-footed bugs on my pomegranate tree?
Leaf-footed bugs have piercing/sucking mouth parts that suck juices from ripe fruit. These pests can damage entire crops if not controlled. If they are a problem for your tree, the following tips may help:
As a low desert gardener, it’s exciting to learn how to grow a crop that I already use, is good for you, and grows well in warm climates. Ginger definitely qualifies on all three accounts. Learning how to grow ginger is easy, and growing it is even simpler (especially if you live in a warm climate).
Ginger is a heat-loving, tropical perennial herb grown for its bamboo-like leaves and flavorful rhizomes. It is grown as a long-season annual in all but the warmest locations.This article includes information on growing ginger in warm and cool climates, as well as tips for growing ginger in containers and indoors.
Ginger is grown from rhizomes. Rhizomes are fleshy stems that spread horizontally underground and contain several buds or growing points. The ginger rhizomes are planted below ground and send up bamboo-like shoots that give energy to the developing ginger below ground.
Ginger shoots emerge from the ground when the weather is nice and warm in the spring. Throughout the long days and warm months of summer, ginger grows well. As the days get shorter and cooler, the leaves turn yellow, and the ginger begins to go dormant.
2. Purchase and prepare ginger before planting
You can buy ginger online from seed companies, but you can also purchase organic ginger from your local market. I get mine at Sprouts. When purchasing ginger rhizomes for planting, look for light-colored, thin-skinned organic ginger that is plump and firm with several bumpy nodules.
To prepare ginger for planting, cut rhizomes into 2-3″ (5-7cm) pieces (each piece containing at least 2 to 3 nodules). Allow cut ends to dry and heal over before planting.
3. Give ginger plenty of time to grow
Ginger needs a long, warm growing season of about 10 months to grow well.
Zones 8 and warmer generally have enough time to start and grow ginger outdoors. Plant outdoors after your last frost date and when the soil warms in the spring. In the low desert of Arizona, plant ginger in March.
Plant rhizomes with nodules pointing up 2″ (5 cm) deep and 6–8″ (15-20 cm) apart.
Plant 4 ginger per square foot in square foot gardeningGinger sprouting in the garden
In cooler climates, you will need to pre-sprout rhizomes indoors before planting. Count back 10 months from your first fall frost date. This is the time to begin pre-sprouting your ginger.
To pre-sprout ginger, plant rhizomes 2″ (5 cm) deep in small pots on heat mats. Keep warm and slightly moist (but not soggy; it will rot). Once ginger sprouts, provide supplemental lightinguntil it is warm enough to plant outside. Gradually let plants become accustomed to outdoor conditions for a week and then carefully transplant sprouts to larger containers or garden beds outdoors. For more detailed information about how to pre-sprout ginger, read this blog post.
4. Give ginger plenty of warmth
Ginger does not grow well in temperatures below 55°F (12°C). Temperatures below freezing cause damage to the leaves and also kill the rhizomes.
In cooler climates, choose your warmest location to plant ginger. Look for an area that gets reflected heat from a block wall. Consider planting ginger in a container. Containers often heat up more quickly in the spring. Move the container to a sheltered location when temperatures fall.
To grow ginger in containers:
Use a container for growing ginger that is at least 12″ (30 cm) deep.
Container-grown ginger may need more frequent watering and fertilizer.
Harvest container-grown ginger by dumping it onto a tarp or into a wheelbarrow.
In hot summer locations, provide shade for growing ginger. Although it prefers warm soil, intense sun often damages the growing leaves. Look for an area to plant ginger that receives shade naturally, or provide shade for growing ginger.
5. Grow ginger in good soil and fertilize as needed
The best soil for ginger is rich in organic matter and well-draining. Rich, loose soil may provide enough nutrients for growing ginger. Mulching the soil with additional compost or straw helps provide nutrients, control weeds, and retain water.
While ginger is growing, you can add a few inches of compost to growing ginger sprouts, similar to “hilling” potatoes. This can encourage more growth in the rhizomes.
If your ginger is not growing well, consider feeding every few weeks with an organic fertilizer such as liquid seaweed or fish emulsion. Testing your soil will help you determine exactly what the soil is lacking.
Ginger developing below ground
6. Water ginger correctly
Ginger grows best with regular water, especially when the plant is actively growing. Well-draining soil is important as the rhizomes do not like soggy conditions. Do not overwater. As temperatures cool, reduce watering.
7. Harvest ginger at the right time
In cool climates, harvest ginger all at once before freezing temperatures. In warmer climates, harvest ginger after the leaves begin to yellow and die back. Wait to harvest as long as possible for the largest rhizomes.
To harvest, gently dig up the entire plant.In warm areas, you can grow ginger as a perennial. Leave the ginger in the ground and harvest as needed. Plants will go dormant during the cooler months and shorter days of winter, but new shoots will emerge in the spring.
8. Preserve harvested ginger in a variety of ways
After harvesting ginger, rinse it well and cut off shoots and large roots. The leaves can be used in tea.
Store fresh ginger in the refrigerator or freezer in reusable storage bags. Unpeeled ginger keeps for about a month in the refrigerator or for up to a year frozen.
Dehydrate ginger by peeling (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) and slicing. Dehydrate at 95°F (35°C )for 8-12 hours or until ginger is crisp and breaks when bent. I use this dehydrator from Amazon.
Sliced ginger before dehydratingSliced ginger after dehydrating
Store dehydrated slices in a glass jar with an airtight lid. Process small amounts of the sliced ginger into powder. Once ground, the powder will begin to lose flavor, so grind only a small amount at a time.
Process dehydrated ginger in blender to turn into powderStore dehydrated ginger in sealed glass jars
Process peeled ginger (young, fresh ginger may not need to be peeled) with a small amount of water in the blender.This is the blender I use.
Process young unpeeled ginger in a blenderPulse until smooth
Freeze in herb or ice cube trays. Use individual portions as needed. When processed this way, ginger lasts up to a year in the freezer.
Freeze in ice cube or herb traysStore frozen cubes in freezer bags for up to 1 year
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In this post, I answer common questions about how to grow pomegranates successfully, including how to plant and care for pomegranates, how to eat pomegranates, and questions about typical problems with pomegranates such as dried out or rotten fruit, and what to do about leaf-footed bugs.
I’ve partnered with Kellogg Garden to bring you this post about how to grow pomegranates.
One of the oldest cultivated fruits, there are literary references to pomegranates dating back to Old Testament times and beyond. Pomegranate fruit has leather-like smooth skin that ranges from pink and green to red and brown surrounding the arils.
Arils are the edible part of the fruit and are surrounded by sweet, juicy pulp. Even without the nutritious fruit, pomegranates are a beautiful tree that provide shiny green foliage, crimson blossoms, and stunning yellow foliage each year just before the leaves fall.
Pomegranate leaves turn yellow before they fall
Heat-loving and drought-tolerant pomegranate trees are especially suited to growing in warm arid regions such as parts of Arizona and California. Learn how to grow a pomegranate tree and enjoy it for years.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
11 of your top “How to Grow Pomegranates” questions answered:
1. Is a pomegranate a bush or a tree?
Typically pomegranates are grown as a tree, but they can be grown as a large bush by allowing suckers to grow, and keeping it pruned for size.
Prune as trees by selectively removing suckers and training it into a multi-trunked tree. [/right]Either way you choose to grow them, pomegranates (Punica granatum) are deciduous with a height and spread of 12 to 20 feet. Dwarf varieties can be grown in large containers.
2. What type of pomegranate should I plant?
Choose a type suited for your climate (some do well in cooler zones), and choose dwarf varieties for containers if you want to move them to protected locations for the winter.
Balegal – Large fruits with pale pink skin; sweet flavored flesh, hardy to zone 7.
Crab – Medium to large fruit with bronze skin; tart but rich flavor; productive.
Early Wonderful – Large fruits with thin red skin; tart flavor; very productive.
Granada – Medium fruit with crimson skin; semi-sweet; matures early; hardy to zone 7.
Sweet – Medium fruit with pink skin; green skin with red flush; very sweet; productive; bears at a young age.
Utah Sweet – Medium-sized fruit with pink skin; sweet flavor and soft seeds; pink flowers.
Wonderful – Large fruits with red skin; tangy, flavorful, soft seeds; large red flowers; productive. This variety grows well in the low desert of Arizona.
3. How do you plant pomegranates?
It’s best to plant trees in the spring or fall in warm places like Arizona.
Pomegranates need plenty of sun to thrive and produce fruit. Look for an area that gets at least 6 hours of direct sun.
Good drainage is crucial for pomegranate trees, but they tolerate almost any soil, even poor or alkaline ones.
Plant pomegranates in a hole as deep as the nursery pot and twice as wide.
In cooler climates, grow pomegranates near a south-facing wall or in a large container that can be moved to a protected location during cold weather.
4. How do you care for pomegranates?
Pomegranate trees are generally easy to care for, requiring minimal maintenance once planted.
Water newly-planted trees more often until established. Water pomegranates deeply during the heat of the summer.
Fertilize pomegranates just as they leaf out (around February) with a large covering of compost (preferred) or use an organic fertilizer 2-3 times per year.
For the first 3 years, it is recommended to shorten shoots to encourage a strong, sturdy plant.
Pruning pomegranate trees is not necessary. However, if desired you can prune pomegranates for size, to remove crossing branches and suckers, or to train against a wall or trellis.
The best time to prune pomegranate trees is after they have dropped all their leaves, just before they begin to leaf out in the spring. Pomegranate trees can also be pruned lightly throughout the year.
Thin pomegranate fruit to 1 fruit about every 6 inches. Thinning the fruit promotes large fruit and prevents limb damage from heavy fruit.
5. It’s spring and my pomegranate tree still doesn’t have leaves; is it dead?
Be patient. Pomegranate trees are often slow to leaf out each spring. However, if you had temperatures lower than 10 °F, your pomegranate tree may have experienced frost damage. Wait until late spring to see if one or more of the trunks are damaged. Remove dead wood.
6. I had plenty of blossoms but no fruit; what is wrong with my pomegranate tree?
Pomegranate trees begin to yield fruit about 3 years after planting. More mature plants hold onto the flowers and fruits better (less drop). Conditions that adversely affect yield in older trees include excess watering, poor drainage, over-fertilization, and not enough sunlight.
Cross-pollination is not required with pomegranate trees, but planting more than 1 tree (even the same type) can increase fruit set.
7. How can I tell when a pomegranate is ready to harvest?
Different varieties of pomegranates begin to be ready beginning in August through November.
Learn when the typical time and color of ripeness is for your type of tree.
The color of the rind and arils are good indicators that pomegranates are ready to pick.
As the pomegranate ripens it changes from being perfectly round to more hexagonal in shape as seeds swell.
The stem and blossom ends of the fruit begin to flatten.
The fruit’s skin changes from a glossy sheen to more of a matte or rough finish.
Ripe fruits easily twist off the stem. (it’s best to cut fruit off the tree)
Still not sure? Try one to see if it’s ripe.
If fruit begins to split – it’s time to harvest!
Ripe fruits left on the tree will often fall – telling you it’s time to harvest!
Listen for a metallic sound when you tap the fruit to help determine readiness.
Once fruits ripen on tree, do not leave on the tree as they may begin to split.
What’s the best way to eat a pomegranate?
Here is my favorite method:
To quickly harvest pomegranate seeds: cut the pomegranate in half, score each ridge on the outside rind, and hold it in your hand (peel side up) over a bowl of water. Hit the rind with a flat wooden spoon – the seeds should fall into the bowl and leave just a few seeds in the rind.
Fruit that is left on the tree too long can begin to split.
Splitting fruit can also be caused by fluctuations in soil moisture. Mulch pomegranate trees well to help keep soil evenly moist.
Water on nearly-ripe fruits can cause splitting.
10. Why does my pomegranate fruit look rotten inside?
Pomegranates are susceptible to Alternaria fruit rot and Aspergillus fruit rot; both cause the fruit to rot as fungus can grow inside fruits after rainfall.
Leaf-footed bugs can carry a fungal yeast that may cause arils to darken and wither.
Be diligent about removal of old fruit, cracked fruit, and dead branches to reduce the incidence of the fungus.
Avoid overwatering and water stress which can cause cracked fruit and allow entrance for the disease.
11. What can I do about leaf-footed bugs on my pomegranate tree?
Leaf-footed bugs have piercing/sucking mouth parts that suck juices from ripe fruit. These pests can damage entire crops if not controlled. If they are a problem for your tree, the following tips may help:
If plants are struggling and not growing well, use this garden troubleshooting guide to help determine the problem and the possible solution.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems
Problem:
Often caused by:
Solutions to try:
Plants are weak, spindly, pale and not growing well
Weeds: Weeds can choke out other plants and take sunlight, moisture and nutrients
• Pull weeds by hand before they set seed • If area is severely infested, consider solarizing area
Plants are weak, spindly, pale and not growing well (cont.)
Poor soil
• Add good quality compost • Amend garden with a balanced organic fertilizer • Add worm castings • Add vermicomposting bins to beds • Add organic matter often to soil • Add vermiculite/perlite and coconut coir to increase water-holding capability
Plants are weak, spindly, pale and not growing well (cont.)
Wrong growing season
• Plants have a preferred growing temperature; plant at the right time • If it is still hot, wait to plant cool-season crops • If it is still cold, wait to plant warm-season crops
Plants are weak, spindly, pale and not growing well (cont.)
Lack of sunlight
• Move containers or raised beds to areas that get enough light • Reduce shade by removing trees, etc. • Thin plants – avoid crowding plants too close together • Plan your garden to avoid taller plants shading smaller plants; put trellises on the north side of your garden • Use a grow light when starting seeds indoors; keep light just a few inches from plants
(Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
Bird DamageBird DamageSun Scorch on PeppersSun Scorch on CitrusCaterpillar Damage on TecomaFrost Damaged TomatoesDying LeavesDamage from Leaf-Cutter Bees
Problem:
Often caused by:
Solutions to try:
Plants look dry around the edges and curl upward
Wind: Wind can be drying and stressful for plants
• Take advantage of natural windbreaks in garden planning • Add windbreaks; use poly tunnels or cloches for temporary wind protection
• Remove the entire plant (annual) or wait until after danger of frost to cut it back (perennial) • Cover frost-susceptible plants during frost events
Burned or yellow leaves and sunscald or burned fruit
Sun damage
• Provide shade during the hottest months of the year • Avoid planting sensitive plants in areas that receive afternoon sun • Harden off transplants before planting
Yellow leaves, slow growth, brown dry lower leaves
Underwatering
• Increase watering • Use a moisture meter to get an accurate idea of soil moisture
Plant wilts easily (Many plants in the Cucurbit family do this normally in the heat of the day; they usually perk back up as temps cool down)
Frequent, shallow watering builds fewer, shallower roots that don’t store as much moisture for the plant to use when it’s stressed
• Water the entire depth of your raised bed or container to encourage the roots to grow deep • Deep, healthy roots will provide moisture for the plant during the heat of the day
Plant looks wilted and may have any or all of the following: • Wet soil • Brown leaves • Yellow falling leaves • New growth falling off • Floppy plant • Mold • Slimy or foul-smelling roots(root rot)
Overwatering
• Do not water again until the top inch or more of soil is dry • Remove flowers • Use a moisture meter to get an accurate idea of soil moisture. • Water only when soil is dry to the touch an inch or two below the surface
(Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
AphidsCaterpillar Damage on KaleSpider MitesSplit TomatoesSunscald on TomatoesDamping Off
White (bleached) spots on leaves of newly planted seedlings
Too much sun exposure
Harden off seedlings gradually
(Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
Burned Leaves on Newly Planted SeedlingsNitrogen Deficiency
Problem:
Often caused by:
Solution to try:
Poor harvest
Plant does not produce desired harvest
• Choose varieties suited to climate (i.e., in the low desert, choose shorter days to harvest and heat-resistant varieties) • Plant at the correct time and temperature • Care for plant correctly – pay attention to plant each day • Plant in well-draining soil
Cracked tomatoes, Splitting fruit & vegetables
• Irregular watering • Heavy rains
• Use an automatic timer, oyas, drip irrigation to water tomatoes • Tomatoes don’t like big fluctuations in soil moisture • If a large amount of rain is expected, harvest fruit prior to the rain
Bolting plants (central stalk forms and develops a seed head)
Plant switches from food production to seed production
Temperature extremes (usually too hot)
Powdery mildew (a white, powdery-looking substance on leaves; usually begins as small white spots on the top of leaves and spreads)
• Water on leaves • Not enough sunlight or airflow • Humid, wet conditions
• Remove affected leaves • Move the container to a sunnier location • Prune overcrowded branches or plants to increase air circulation • Spray plants with a solution of 1 tsp baking soda or potassium bicarbonate and castile soap mixed with 1 quart water • Remove heavily-infected plants
Tomatoes won’t ripen
Too hot, too cold
• Top plant by removing cutting central stem. • Remove suckers, blossoms, and diseased leaves • Smaller tomatoes will ripen faster • Harvest fruit as soon as it flushes color (it will finish indoors) • Cover plants at night when temperatures are below 50°F • Move the container to a sunnier location
(Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
Split TomatoesRat DamageTomato DiseasesSun Scald on LeavesSplitting Fruit
Garden Troubleshooting Guide: How to Identify & Solve Common Garden Problems (cont.)
Problem:
Often caused by:
Solutions to try:
Lack of pollinators and beneficial insects
• Pesticide use • Lack of flowers, herbs, diverse plantings
• Do not use pesticides • Use organic controls sparingly • Plant a variety of vegetables, flowers, and herbs • Allow herbs to flower • Interplant different types of crops throughout your garden • Grow flowering plants that provide nectar and pollen
Seeds won’t germinate
• Not enough time has passed • Poor seeds • Seed dried out • Wrong temperature (too hot or too cold) • Soil is too wet • Birds / slugs ate seeds
• Do not allow newly-planted seeds to dry out • Use garden markers to mark newly-planted areas • Start indoors or in containers, and then transplant • Use fresh seeds • Use barrier methods to prevent seed loss from animals and birds • Start seeds indoors under controlled conditions
Diseases
Planting crops in same location each year
• Rotate different crop families – try to allow 2 years between planting the same family of crops • Alliums: garlic, onions, chives • Amaranths: beets, chard, spinach • Asters: lettuce, sunflowers, chamomile • Brassicas: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, radish • Cucurbits: squash, cucumber, melon • Mint: basil, mint, rosemary, sage • Legumes: beans, peas • Nightshades: tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant • Umbels: carrots, celery, cilantro, dill, parsley
(Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
Powdery Mildew
Problem:
Often caused by:
Solutions to try:
Diseases (cont.)
Planting crops too close together
• Plants need sufficient airflow to be healthy • Plants that touch each other are more likely to have problems with diseases
Diseases (cont.)
Overwatering
• Many fungal diseases are caused by too much water in the soil or on the plant’s leaves • Plant in well-draining soil
Diseases (cont.)
Lack of sunlight
Most plants need at least 6-8 hours of sunlight to be healthy
• Barrier methods, organic gardening methods, beneficial insects • Various treatments and causes • See the article, “Organic Pest Control That Really Works”, for pest identification and treatment options
(Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
Insect DamageDamage from BirdsDamage from Hornworm CaterpillarBlossom End RotDamping OffLack of Pollination
Problem:
Often caused by:
Solutions to try:
Blossom end rot (a brown, leathery rot developing on or near the blossom end of tomatoes, peppers, etc.)
• Maintain consistent moisture levels throughout season • Cold soils limit nutrient uptake • Apply mulch to prevent moisture loss • Apply a fertilizer higher in phosphorus • Maintain soil pH at or near 6.5
Damping off (Fungal disease that causes the stem to rot and kills seedlings)
• Crowded seedlings • Overhead watering
• Use sterile potting mix • Grow in well-drained soil with plenty of light • Do not crowd seedlings • Water from the bottom • Thin layer of sand, perlite, or sphagnum moss on the top of the soil • Use a fan to circulate air
Squash, cucumbers, etc. not forming fruit (plenty of flowers, no fruit)
Lack of pollination
Hand pollinate: • Best done early in the morning • Remove the male blossom; pick off or pull back the petals and rub the stamen against the pistil of the other flower • Alternatively, use a cotton swab to transfer the pollen from the male flower to the female flower
(Garden Troubleshooting Guide)
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Thinking about starting a garden but aren’t sure where to begin? This post, all about gardening for beginners, is for you — with eight simple steps to help you start your garden.
Does this sound familiar? Looking around my yard, I see weeds, overgrown plants, and a few dried-out pots I tried to grow tomatoes in last year. I think to myself…. “How am I going to grow anything here?” “What do I do first?” “How will I know what to plant?” “If I put time and money into a garden, will it be worth it?”
Read through these steps, and don’t be afraid to start a garden.You can do this!
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Gardening for Beginners: How to Start a Garden in 8 Simple Steps
Step 1: Choose the best location to start your garden
The best spot is where it is convenient for you – someplace you will see and walk by often. The back of the yard behind the shed may get the most sun, but if you don’t see your garden regularly, you might forget about it.
Ideally, this spot gets morning sun – look for a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of sun (more is ok). You might need to provide shade in the summer in hot areas like Arizona.
Check sun exposure using the Sun Seeker app (or similar). It allows you to see the amount of sunlight each area receives.
There should also be a water source nearby or within a hose distance.
Gardening for Beginners Step 2: Add a raised bed
Start small – you can always add more. A “4 foot by 8 foot” raised bed is a good starting point. Aim for a depth between 12 and 18 inches. It is easy to construct, and you can grow a lot of food in this size space. It is important that you can reach into the center of the bed without stepping on the soil. Add more raised beds later as your ability and experience grow. This article shares tips for designing raised bed gardens.
Alternatively, use several large pots or half wine barrels for container gardening.
Step 3: Set up a watering system
An automatic watering system and a hose for watering seedlings is best. Automatic watering can be simple, such as a battery-operated timer connected to your hose bib, with either a soaker hose or drip line going to the garden. Using a two-way splitter for a second hose is helpful for hand-watering new plantings and seeds.
Gardening for Beginners Step 4: Add soil to your raised bed
One advantage of raised beds is you do not use existing soil. Once you add the perfect mix of ingredients to your raised bed, you are ready to plant. This one-time cost will probably be the most expensive part of beginning a garden.
To fill the bed, mix equal parts of:
Compost – use several different brands or make your own.
Peat Moss or Coconut Coir – makes soil lighter; helps with water retention.
Vermiculite – helps retain water and allows the soil to breathe.
How much soil will you need? The volume of your raised bed or containers determines this. A 4×4 bed that is 1 foot deep will require a total of 16 cubic feet of soil. Each time you plant, add fresh compost to your soil.
In the future, it’s important to have your soil tested each year. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. This is the soil test kit I use. It’s very simple to use.
Step 5: Find a planting guide written for your area and follow it
Timing is crucial in gardening. Using a planting guide takes the guesswork out of what to plant and when to plant it. Local extension offices and locally-owned nurseries are a great place to begin your search for a planting guide. If you live in the low desert of Arizona, I recommend these planting guides.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Gardening for Beginners Step 6: Plant what you like to eat
Read about the vegetables you would like to grow on Growinginthegarden.com, so you understand growing requirements, when to plant, and when to harvest.
Check new seeds and seedlings often – water as necessary to keep the soil moist. If newly planted seeds and seedlings dry out, they will die.
Step 7: Spend time in your garden each day
Take a walk around your garden each morning – preferably while the watering system is running. Take note of what is growing well (yay!), and observe problems while they are young and easily corrected. When you catch problems (pest, disease, watering issues) while they are small, they are easily managed. Find joy in the successes and learn from the failures.
Step 8: Harvest and eat what you grow
Pick young and pick often – this encourages more production. Use the food you grow in the garden. Try new recipes and incorporate your garden harvest into your family’s food. Soups and smoothies are a great way to use vegetables from the garden.
If this post about how to start a garden was helpful, please share it:
Gardening in the low desert of Arizona during July is difficult. Learn how to maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in July and navigate the challenges of hot weather to ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, and what to plant. I’ve also included a helpful “July Garden Task Checklist.”
July is typically the hottest month in the low desert. Monsoons may bring humidity and moisture, but they may not. It’s essential to pay attention to your plants’ watering needs this month. The average temperature is 107°F (41.6°C), and the average rainfall is 1.22 inches. When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.
What To Do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during July:
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
A few keys to gardening during July in the low desert include:
Clear out squash and other plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease to make room for monsoon and fall planting.
Don’t prune or fertilize most plants. Most need to be in summer dormancy to survive. Pruning can expose new areas to sunlight damage, and fertilizing can cause stress.
Bell peppers can get sunburned if fruits get direct sun; provide some shade if scalding is a problem.
Tomatoes may be finishing up. Remove spent or diseased plants. Note which varieties you liked and which did well. If tomato plants still look healthy, let them stay in the garden and keep them alive. They will produce again when temperatures fall.
Cucumber production slows or even stops this month as temperatures heat up. Pull plants if necessary if cucumbers are bitter or pests or diseases are an issue. Plant Armenian cucumbers in their place. Although other cucumbers may not like the heat, Armenian cucumbers thrive all summer.
Pot up any indoor-grown seedlings outgrowing their containers if it is not time to plant them outside. Fertilize indoor-grown seedlings every other watering.
Go through your seeds and plan for fall and winter planting.
Onion blooms have developed seeds. Save them and try growing your own from seed. You can also save bolted parsley and dill seeds.
Possible Harvests This Month:
Roma tomatoes
Harvest crops early in the day when temperatures are cooler, and their moisture content is higher. Bring harvests inside right away to prolong storage life and increase food quality.
Here’s a tip for cucumbers after harvesting: Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the increase storage life and keep cucumbers crisp.
Immersing cucumbers in ice water cools them quickly
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)
Vegetable Watering Guidelines:
Hopefully, monsoon humidity and added moisture will come to the low desert this month. A rain gauge is helpful for measuring how much rain you receive. If you measure .5 inches of rain, check that the rain penetrated your soil and then turn off your water timer. You can also insert a screwdriver into grass or rocks to determine whether to water. If it passes easily into the soil, you can wait to water. Monitor plants for signs of stress and ensure they get enough water and have good drainage.
During hot weather, annual vegetables need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-3 days, allowing the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
During July, I usually water my raised beds every other day.I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller
SUBSCRIBE TO MY GARDEN JOURNAL
Receive exclusive insights directly from my garden to your inbox with “GITG Academy + Low Desert Tips.”
Twice a month, I share my personal garden journal. From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert. As a member, you have access to the past 3 years of garden journals and monthly classes.
Join me, and let’s make your garden thrive under the desert sun!
Low Desert Arizona in July: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month
Monitor plants for pests and diseases. If plants are struggling or overwhelmed with pests, it is often best to remove them rather than treat them. The heat is stressful for plants – they probably won’t recover if they are overtaken.
Damage from leaf-cutter bees
Common Pests During July:
You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.
Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant. This post will teach you more about preventing and controlling squash bugs.
Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.
You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs will take care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them with water.
Spray off beans with water to discourage spider mites
If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
A soapy bucket of water is essential for catching squash bugs and leaf-footed bugs
Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
Other common pests include katydids, crickets, and grasshoppers. Birds and spiders are natural predators.
Milkweed and other seed bugs are common on seed pods and best left untreated; they usually don’t cause damage.
Lovebirds on branching sunflowers in Mesa, Arizona
Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:
Abandoned cicada exoskeletons on a vitex trunk
During July, the hum of cicadas often fills the air. They emerge from the soil and love warm, humid temperatures. Cicadas are Important pollinators and a food source for other animals.
Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves.
Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
Other wildlife may include lizards, hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths.
Keep your chickens cool by providing water for them to stand in. Consider adding a misting stand. Keeping them hydrated with extra cucumbers and watermelon can also help.
Gulf Fritillary caterpillar
Low Desert Arizona in July: Container Gardening Tips
If possible, put small containers away until the fall. Use the soil from the containers as mulch or add to compost.
Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.
Container Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
During July, I usually water my containers every other day and fill up the ollas each time I water. Adding ollas to containers helps with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Arizona gardening in July wouldn’t be the same without sunflowers! I love this branching variety. They are everywhere in my yard, and I love them. There are many reasons to plant sunflowers: they provide shade, can be used as a trellis, attract wildlife and pollinators, and are simple to grow from seed in nearly any spot in your yard.
Rudbeckia attracts pollinators, grows well from seed, and makes an excellent cut flower.
Tithonia is a heat-loving favorite that also makes an excellent cover crop.
Globe Amaranth thrives in the heat with consistent watering. I like to harvest the flowers for cut flowers. I’ve planted them in my flower beds and throughout my garden beds to attract pollinators.
Cut back spent hollyhocks and save the seeds this month. Leave the roots in place.
Zinnias are a champion of Arizona gardening in July. Give them consistent moisture, and enjoy the lovely blooms! They are also excellent cut flowers.
Zinnias growing up through trellis netting for cut flowers
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each flower)
Bee balm
Flower Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Looking for more ideas for flowers that can take the heat of an Arizona summer? This article shares my favorite ones with tips for how to grow them.
Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post. Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day are the best times to do this. However, it is beneficial at any time of year and will not burn plants.
Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests.
Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
Anna’s apple harvests finish up this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
Monitor grapes and blackberries for harvest readiness. Cover to protect from birds if necessary.
Shade newly planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
Grapes
Citrus:
Citrus is developing on all the citrus trees throughout the yard. Last month, the trees self-thinned, and the fruit that is left on the tree is growing well. Citrus trees appreciate the monsoon rains and higher humidity this month.
Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.
Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Grapefruit in July
Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Mrs. Burn’s lemon basil
Lemongrass grows quickly in the heat.
Lightly harvest perennial Herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano. Cutting back too much can be stressful.
Mint doesn’t look great over the summer. When temperatures moderate in the fall it will rebound.
Basil is the champion herb of summer. The more you harvest, the more it will grow. Use it and preserve it by freezing or freeze-drying.
Harvest seeds from bolting parsley, fennel, and dill.
Bolted fennel
Herb Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.
Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.
Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Sparky Tecoma
Prepare for monsoon winds by staking any small trees requiring extra support and properly pruning trees and shrubs. If limbs or branches break, prune back to the main trunk if possible. Learn more about preparing for monsoons in this blog post.
Tecoma is in full bloom and doesn’t mind the heat. Hummingbirds and pollinators love it. This is an excellent addition to an Arizona garden landscape.
Yellow Dot is a vigorous ground cover that grows rapidly in well-drained soil and can grow in full sun or shady areas. It looks great most of the year and provides a living mulch to trees in the summer heat.
Ornamental Sweet Potato Vine is a fast grower available in several colors. Lavish greenery and filler even in the hottest months. This vine is easy to start from cuttings; root in water first and then plant. It’s that simple. Regular watering keeps it lush. Learn more about how to grow sweet potato vine in this article.
July is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
If plants die, don’t replace them. Instead, look around at other plants in your neighborhood growing well for replacement ideas. For desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert. Wait to plant until the fall.
If stinknet sprouts in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread. If the flowers are dried and the plant is dead, remove it carefully— it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert
Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and July is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
If you are considering removing Bermuda grass, July is an excellent time. Learn more in this blog post.
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Low Desert Arizona in July: Flower seeds to start indoors
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Sources:
1 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.
Growing onions is so satisfying. However, you may not know what to do when onions bolt. Seeing flower stalks forming on your growing onions can be disheartening.
A bulb on the top center stalk of your onion means it has begun the process of flowering and making seeds. This is called “bolting,” which is terrible news for onion growers.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
What is bolting?
Bolting is the term that describes when a vegetable plant starts to seed or flower before it should. When onions bolt, the bulb part of the onion stops growing and will not mature further. The energy that would make the onion bulb is now directed towards making the flower stalk.
Onions and shallots are a biennial crops, which means that the first year they grow and the second year they flower. When an onion or shallot forms a flower in the first year, it is called bolting.
Why do onions bolt?
An onion bolts in response to stress. Stress can happen in several ways; too hot, too cold, not enough water, or too much water. Temperature fluctuations can cause onions to bolt as well.
Swings in temperature may cause the onion to think it is in the second year of growth when it is supposed to flower.
For example, warm temperatures followed by cool weather can encourage onions to go dormant. Once warm temperatures return, the onion may believe it is beginning its second growing season and produce seeds.
The onion reacts to the stress by putting its energy into reproducing and making seeds.
What should I do when my onions bolt?
Harvest and use (or preserve, see preserving tips below).
Cut off the flower on top, or cut the entire bolting stem, so the onion stops producing seeds. (This won’t restart bulb growth.) You can leave the onion in the ground for a few weeks. The onion won’t continue bulbing or get any larger, but it will “keep” in the ground and can be used later.
Do not wait to harvest until the onion leaves turn brown and fall over (as you do with onions that don’t bolt). Bolted onions may rot or become fibrous if left in the ground too long.
Leave a couple of bolting onions to flower until they produce seeds. Save the seedsto plant next season.
Onion flowers develop into seedsOnion seeds
How do I preserve bolted onions?
Use bolted onions right away, just as you would other onions. Bolted onions will not store well, and you need to preserve them differently than onions that did not bolt.
Here are a few ideas for ways to preserve bolted onions:
Cut up the onions and dehydrate them. Use dehydrated onions whole, or process them into onion powder. Store the dehydrated onions whole for the most robust flavor, and then blend small amounts for powder.
Onions on dehydrating traysDehydrated onions
Slice onions and freeze dry them. (This is my FAVORITE way to preserve onions.) Freeze-dried onions can be stored and used “as is” or processed into a powder. Looking for more information about freeze-drying? Read this post, Freeze Drying Tips for Beginners.
Onions going into the freeze dryerFreeze dried onionsFreeze dried onion powder
What can I do to prevent onions from bolting next time?
You don’t control the weather or other outside conditions that may cause onions to bolt. However, there are a few ways to help prevent bolting in the future.
Choose onions suited to your area. Onions are typically grouped into short, long, and intermediate day onions. Use this map to help determine which type to plant.
Plant at the correct time. Use your local planting guide to determine when to plant.
Onion sets (small bulbs) tend to set more frequently, especially in hot climates. Grow onions from seed or transplant instead.
Onion setsMulti-sown onions from seedOnion transplants
If you would like more information about how to grow onions, read this blogpost.
If this post about what to do when onions bolt was helpful, please share it:
Growing onions is so satisfying. However, you may not know what to do when onions bolt. Seeing flower stalks forming on your growing onions can be disheartening.
A bulb on the top center stalk of your onion means it has begun the process of flowering and making seeds. This is called “bolting,” which is terrible news for onion growers.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
What is bolting?
Bolting is the term that describes when a vegetable plant starts to seed or flower before it should. When onions bolt, the bulb part of the onion stops growing and will not mature further. The energy that would make the onion bulb is now directed towards making the flower stalk.
Onions and shallots are a biennial crops, which means that the first year they grow and the second year they flower. When an onion or shallot forms a flower in the first year, it is called bolting.
Why do onions bolt?
An onion bolts in response to stress. Stress can happen in several ways; too hot, too cold, not enough water, or too much water. Temperature fluctuations can cause onions to bolt as well.
Swings in temperature may cause the onion to think it is in the second year of growth when it is supposed to flower.
For example, warm temperatures followed by cool weather can encourage onions to go dormant. Once warm temperatures return, the onion may believe it is beginning its second growing season and produce seeds.
The onion reacts to the stress by putting its energy into reproducing and making seeds.
What should I do when my onions bolt?
Harvest and use (or preserve, see preserving tips below).
Cut off the flower on top, or cut the entire bolting stem, so the onion stops producing seeds. (This won’t restart bulb growth.) You can leave the onion in the ground for a few weeks. The onion won’t continue bulbing or get any larger, but it will “keep” in the ground and can be used later.
Do not wait to harvest until the onion leaves turn brown and fall over (as you do with onions that don’t bolt). Bolted onions may rot or become fibrous if left in the ground too long.
Leave a couple of bolting onions to flower until they produce seeds. Save the seedsto plant next season.
Onion flowers develop into seedsOnion seeds
How do I preserve bolted onions?
Use bolted onions right away, just as you would other onions. Bolted onions will not store well, and you need to preserve them differently than onions that did not bolt.
Here are a few ideas for ways to preserve bolted onions:
Cut up the onions and dehydrate them. Use dehydrated onions whole, or process them into onion powder. Store the dehydrated onions whole for the most robust flavor, and then blend small amounts for powder.
Onions on dehydrating traysDehydrated onions
Slice onions and freeze dry them. (This is my FAVORITE way to preserve onions.) Freeze-dried onions can be stored and used “as is” or processed into a powder. Looking for more information about freeze-drying? Read this post, Freeze Drying Tips for Beginners.
Onions going into the freeze dryerFreeze dried onionsFreeze dried onion powder
What can I do to prevent onions from bolting next time?
You don’t control the weather or other outside conditions that may cause onions to bolt. However, there are a few ways to help prevent bolting in the future.
Choose onions suited to your area. Onions are typically grouped into short, long, and intermediate day onions. Use this map to help determine which type to plant.
Plant at the correct time. Use your local planting guide to determine when to plant.
Onion sets (small bulbs) tend to set more frequently, especially in hot climates. Grow onions from seed or transplant instead.
Onion setsMulti-sown onions from seedOnion transplants
If you would like more information about how to grow onions, read this blogpost.
If this post about what to do when onions bolt was helpful, please share it:
Gardening in the low desert of Arizona during July is difficult. Learn how to maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in July and navigate the challenges of hot weather to ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, and what to plant. I’ve also included a helpful “July Garden Task Checklist.”
July is typically the hottest month in the low desert. Monsoons may bring humidity and moisture, but they may not. It’s essential to pay attention to your plants’ watering needs this month. The average temperature is 107°F (81°C), and the average rainfall is 1.22 inches. When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.
What To Do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during July:
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
A few keys to gardening during July in the low desert include:
Clear out squash and other plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease to make room for monsoon and fall planting.
Don’t prune or fertilize most plants. Most need to be in summer dormancy to survive. Pruning can expose new areas to sunlight damage, and fertilizing can cause stress.
Bell peppers can get sunburned if fruits get direct sun; provide some shade if scalding is a problem.
Tomatoes may be finishing up. Remove spent or diseased plants. Note which varieties you liked and which did well. If tomato plants still look healthy, let them stay in the garden and keep them alive. They will produce again when temperatures fall.
Cucumber production slows or even stops this month as temperatures heat up. Pull plants if necessary if cucumbers are bitter or pests or diseases are an issue. Plant Armenian cucumbers in their place. Although other cucumbers may not like the heat, Armenian cucumbers thrive all summer.
Pot up any indoor-grown seedlings outgrowing their containers if it is not time to plant them outside. Fertilize indoor-grown seedlings every other watering.
Go through your seeds and plan for fall and winter planting.
Onion blooms have developed seeds. Save them and try growing your own from seed. You can also save bolted parsley and dill seeds.
Possible Harvests This Month:
Roma tomatoes
Harvest crops early in the day when temperatures are cooler, and their moisture content is higher. Bring harvests inside right away to prolong storage life and increase food quality.
Here’s a tip for cucumbers after harvesting: Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the increase storage life and keep cucumbers crisp.
Immersing cucumbers in ice water cools them quickly
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)
Vegetable Watering Guidelines:
Hopefully, monsoon humidity and added moisture will come to the low desert this month. A rain gauge is helpful for measuring how much rain you receive. If you measure .5 inches of rain, check that the rain penetrated your soil and then turn off your water timer. You can also insert a screwdriver into grass or rocks to determine whether to water. If it passes easily into the soil, you can wait to water. Monitor plants for signs of stress and ensure they get enough water and have good drainage.
During hot weather, annual vegetables need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-3 days, allowing the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
During July, I usually water my raised beds every other day.I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller
SUBSCRIBE TO MY GARDEN JOURNAL
Receive exclusive insights directly from my garden to your inbox with “GITG Academy + Low Desert Tips.”
Twice a month, I share my personal garden journal. From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert. As a member, you have access to the past 3 years of garden journals and monthly classes.
Join me, and let’s make your garden thrive under the desert sun!
Low Desert Arizona in July: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month
Monitor plants for pests and diseases. If plants are struggling or overwhelmed with pests, it is often best to remove them rather than treat them. The heat is stressful for plants – they probably won’t recover if they are overtaken.
Damage from leaf-cutter bees
Common Pests During July:
You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.
Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.
You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs will take care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them with water.
Spray off beans with water to discourage spider mites
Spider mites are common on beans, especially in hot, dry conditions. Spray the area often with water to discourage them. If you need to treat, a combination of Safer Insect Killing Soap and Monterey Horticultural Oil can be effective. Use at sundown and then rinse the leaves well afterward to prevent burning. Follow package instructions and use sparingly– only on affected areas to prevent harming beneficial insects.
If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
A soapy bucket of water is essential for catching squash bugs and leaf-footed bugs
Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
Other common pests include katydids, crickets, and grasshoppers. Birds and spiders are natural predators.
Milkweed and other seed bugs are common on seed pods and best left untreated; they usually don’t cause damage.
Lovebirds on branching sunflowers in Mesa, Arizona
Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:
Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves.
Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
Other wildlife may include lizards, hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths.
Keep your chickens cool by providing water for them to stand in. Consider adding a misting stand. Keeping them hydrated with extra cucumbers and watermelon can also help.
Gulf Fritillary caterpillar
Low Desert Arizona in July: Container Gardening Tips
If possible, put small containers away until the fall. Use the soil from the containers as mulch or add to compost.
Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.
Container Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
During July, I usually water my containers every other day and fill up the ollas each time I water. Adding ollas to containers helps with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Arizona gardening in July wouldn’t be the same without sunflowers! I love this branching variety. They are everywhere in my yard, and I love them. There are many reasons to plant sunflowers: they provide shade, can be used as a trellis, attract wildlife and pollinators, and are simple to grow from seed in nearly any spot in your yard.
Rudbeckia attracts pollinators, grows well from seed, and makes an excellent cut flower.
Tithonia is a heat-loving favorite that also makes an excellent cover crop.
Globe Amaranth thrives in the heat with consistent watering. I like to harvest the flowers for cut flowers. I’ve planted them in my flower beds and throughout my garden beds to attract pollinators.
Cut back spent hollyhocks and save the seeds this month. Leave the roots in place.
Zinnias are a champion of Arizona gardening in July. Give them consistent moisture, and enjoy the lovely blooms! They are also excellent cut flowers.
Zinnias growing up through trellis netting for cut flowers
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each flower)
Bee balm
Flower Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Looking for more ideas for flowers that can take the heat of an Arizona summer? This article shares my favorite ones with tips for how to grow them.
Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post. Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day are the best times to do this. However, it is beneficial at any time of year and will not burn plants.
Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests.
Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
Anna’s apple harvests finish up this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
Monitor grapes and blackberries for harvest readiness. Cover to protect from birds if necessary.
Shade newly planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
Grapes
Citrus:
Citrus is developing on all the citrus trees throughout the yard. Last month, the trees self-thinned, and the fruit that is left on the tree is growing well. Citrus trees appreciate the monsoon rains and higher humidity this month.
Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.
Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Grapefruit in July
Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Mrs. Burn’s lemon basil
Lemongrass grows quickly in the heat.
Lightly harvest perennial Herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano. Cutting back too much can be stressful.
Mint doesn’t look great over the summer. When temperatures moderate in the fall it will rebound.
Basil is the champion herb of summer. The more you harvest, the more it will grow. Use it and preserve it by freezing or freeze-drying.
Harvest seeds from bolting parsley, fennel, and dill.
Bolted fennel
Herb Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.
Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.
Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Sparky Tecoma
Prepare for monsoon winds by staking any small trees requiring extra support and properly pruning trees and shrubs. If limbs or branches break, prune back to the main trunk if possible. Learn more about preparing for monsoons in this blog post.
Tecoma is in full bloom and doesn’t mind the heat. Hummingbirds and pollinators love it. This is an excellent addition to an Arizona garden landscape.
Yellow Dot is a vigorous ground cover that grows rapidly in well-drained soil and can grow in full sun or shady areas. It looks great most of the year and provides a living mulch to trees in the summer heat.
Ornamental Sweet Potato Vine is a fast grower available in several colors. Lavish greenery and filler even in the hottest months. This vine is easy to start from cuttings; root in water first and then plant. It’s that simple. Regular watering keeps it lush. Learn more about how to grow sweet potato vine in this article.
July is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
If plants die, don’t replace them. Instead, look around at other plants in your neighborhood growing well for replacement ideas. For desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert. Wait to plant until the fall.
If stinknet sprouts in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread. If the flowers are dried and the plant is dead, remove it carefully— it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert
Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and July is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
If you are considering removing Bermuda grass, July is an excellent time. Learn more in this blog post.
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Low Desert Arizona in July: Flower seeds to start indoors
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Sources:
1 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.
Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed – they are grown from slips. A slip is a rooted sprout from a mature sweet potato. You can order sweet potato slips online, or you can grow your own. If you’re wondering how to grow sweet potato slips, you’ve come to the right place.
Begin the process about 8-12 weeks before your planting date for sweet potatoes. Here in the low desert of Arizona, our planting window for sweet potatoes is from March – June.
How to grow sweet potato slips: Decide which method you would like to use
There are a few methods for growing sweet potato slips. I’m sharing three successful methods I’ve used.
1. The Traditional Water Method
The traditional method of making sweet potato slips is suspending the sweet potato in water. This method works, but often takes 6-8 weeks (or more) to produce slips.
Choose this method if you have plenty of time before you plant and don’t have indoor lighting. A bright window works well for this method.
Pros: Simple
Cons: Takes longer; requires frequent changing of water.
In my experience, the indoor soil method of making sweet potato slips is a much faster way to make sweet potato slips. This method usually takes around 4-6 weeks.
Choose this method if you would like slips faster, and you have bright indoor lighting available.
Pros: Quickest method
Cons: Requires indoor lighting & heat mat for best results. Must keep the soil moist. Chance for potato rotting.
The first step for all three methods is to choose a healthy organic sweet potato. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated with a sprout inhibitor.
Do you have a sweet potato beginning to sprout in the cupboard? Perfect! Now you have a head start in whichever method for sprouting sweet potato slips you choose.
1. Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips
Suspend half the sweet potato in a jar of water using toothpicks.
Does it matter which half of the potato is submerged in water when making sweet potato slips? Yes, the rooting end should go in the water. Here are a few ways to determine the difference between the rooting end and the sprouting end:
Look for small thin roots on one end. This is the rooting end.
One end may be larger with more eyes. This is the sprouting end.
The end of the sweet potato that tapers is typically the rooting end.
You want the bottom (rooting) half to be immersed in water and the top (sprouting) half above the jar. Roots will form in the water, and sprouts will form in the top part of the potato.
Providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
Keep the water level up in the jar and keep thewater fresh by replacing it every week or so. Within a few weeks, roots will develop first, and then sprouts will start to form on the suspended potato.
Nestle sweet potatoes in soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Place the lid under the pan to catch any excess water coming out of the holes.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
Once again, providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
If the sweet potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
In about a week, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week or two, small sprouts will begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slip.
You may be able to remove the slip with roots attached. If so, you can go ahead and plant. If there are no roots, go ahead to the next step.
3. “Outdoor soil method” for making sweet potato slips
Bury the sweet potato halfway in warm soil.
Check soil temperature. Once the soil is at least 65°F (18°C), you can begin.
Bury the bottom (rooting half) of sweet potatoes in the soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Use a milk jug or cloche to warm the soil and encourage rooting and sprouting.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
If at any time the potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
Sprouts forming using the outdoor soil method of starting sweet potato slips
Within a week or two, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week, small sprouts should begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato.
Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slips from the sweet potato and begin the next step.
Whichever method you choose for making sweet potato slips (the water method or either soil method), the next steps are the same:
When sprouts are about 5-6 inches tall, remove sprouts from the sweet potato by carefully twisting off or cutting off at soil level.
Remove lower leaves from sprouts and let “root” in a jar of water. Roots will develop quickly; you should begin to see roots in 1-2 days.
Keep the water level high in the jar. Switch out the water about once a week to keep the water fresh. Discard wilted or rotten slips.
Once roots are fully formed and several inches long, it’s time to plant.
Plant the rooted sweet potato slips about 12-18 inches apart and 4 inches deep.
Water newly-planted slips well.
Root slips before planting
One sweet potato will produce a dozen or more sprouts. Allow sweet potato to continue rooting and producing slips until you have as many as you (and your neighbors) need.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
If this post about how to make sweet potato slips was helpful, please share it:
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed – they are grown from slips. A slip is a rooted sprout from a mature sweet potato. You can order sweet potato slips online, or you can grow your own. If you’re wondering how to grow sweet potato slips, you’ve come to the right place.
Begin the process about 8-12 weeks before your planting date for sweet potatoes. Here in the low desert of Arizona, our planting window for sweet potatoes is from March – June.
How to grow sweet potato slips: Decide which method you would like to use
There are a few methods for growing sweet potato slips. I’m sharing three successful methods I’ve used.
1. The Traditional Water Method
The traditional method of making sweet potato slips is suspending the sweet potato in water. This method works, but often takes 6-8 weeks (or more) to produce slips.
Choose this method if you have plenty of time before you plant and don’t have indoor lighting. A bright window works well for this method.
Pros: Simple
Cons: Takes longer; requires frequent changing of water.
In my experience, the indoor soil method of making sweet potato slips is a much faster way to make sweet potato slips. This method usually takes around 4-6 weeks.
Choose this method if you would like slips faster, and you have bright indoor lighting available.
Pros: Quickest method
Cons: Requires indoor lighting & heat mat for best results. Must keep the soil moist. Chance for potato rotting.
The first step for all three methods is to choose a healthy organic sweet potato. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated with a sprout inhibitor.
Do you have a sweet potato beginning to sprout in the cupboard? Perfect! Now you have a head start in whichever method for sprouting sweet potato slips you choose.
1. Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips
Suspend half the sweet potato in a jar of water using toothpicks.
Does it matter which half of the potato is submerged in water when making sweet potato slips? Yes, the rooting end should go in the water. Here are a few ways to determine the difference between the rooting end and the sprouting end:
Look for small thin roots on one end. This is the rooting end.
One end may be larger with more eyes. This is the sprouting end.
The end of the sweet potato that tapers is typically the rooting end.
You want the bottom (rooting) half to be immersed in water and the top (sprouting) half above the jar. Roots will form in the water, and sprouts will form in the top part of the potato.
Providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
Keep the water level up in the jar and keep thewater fresh by replacing it every week or so. Within a few weeks, roots will develop first, and then sprouts will start to form on the suspended potato.
Nestle sweet potatoes in soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Place the lid under the pan to catch any excess water coming out of the holes.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
Once again, providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
If the sweet potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
In about a week, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week or two, small sprouts will begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slip.
You may be able to remove the slip with roots attached. If so, you can go ahead and plant. If there are no roots, go ahead to the next step.
3. “Outdoor soil method” for making sweet potato slips
Bury the sweet potato halfway in warm soil.
Check soil temperature. Once the soil is at least 65°F (18°C), you can begin.
Bury the bottom (rooting half) of sweet potatoes in the soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Use a milk jug or cloche to warm the soil and encourage rooting and sprouting.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
If at any time the potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
Sprouts forming using the outdoor soil method of starting sweet potato slips
Within a week or two, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week, small sprouts should begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato.
Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slips from the sweet potato and begin the next step.
Whichever method you choose for making sweet potato slips (the water method or either soil method), the next steps are the same:
When sprouts are about 5-6 inches tall, remove sprouts from the sweet potato by carefully twisting off or cutting off at soil level.
Remove lower leaves from sprouts and let “root” in a jar of water. Roots will develop quickly; you should begin to see roots in 1-2 days.
Keep the water level high in the jar. Switch out the water about once a week to keep the water fresh. Discard wilted or rotten slips.
Once roots are fully formed and several inches long, it’s time to plant.
Plant the rooted sweet potato slips about 12-18 inches apart and 4 inches deep.
Water newly-planted slips well.
Root slips before planting
One sweet potato will produce a dozen or more sprouts. Allow sweet potato to continue rooting and producing slips until you have as many as you (and your neighbors) need.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
If this post about how to make sweet potato slips was helpful, please share it:
Rosemary, a resilient Mediterranean native, is a beautiful ornamental landscape plant, a prized edible herb, and an excellent companion plant for your vegetable garden. Its heat and drought tolerance make it one of the easiest plants to grow.
Although rosemary is easy to grow, it’s also easy to kill. Learn what to do (and what not to do) when growing rosemary with the tips in this article. Here are five tips to help beginner and experienced gardeners get started growing rosemary.
5 Tips for How to Grow Rosemary
1. Don’t plant it in your garden beds full of rich soil
Rosemary struggles when grown in rich soil. Instead, plant it on the outskirts of your garden in native, slightly alkaline soil with a pH level of around 7. The beautiful purple flowers will attract bees and wildlife to your garden.
Flowering rosemary attracts bees
Well-draining soil is essential for rosemary. This means the soil should be able to drain water quickly, preventing the roots from sitting in water for too long. This plant is susceptible to root rot and other moisture-related conditions, which can turn it yellow, wilt, and eventually lead to its demise. Understanding and providing the right soil conditions is key to maintaining a healthy rosemary plant.
Root rot
Rosemary thrives in full sun and prefers temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C). It tolerates full sun even in Arizona’s low desert.
Rosemary does well in hot, dry conditions
2. Plant from transplant; rosemary is not easily grown from seeds
Growing rosemary from seeds is notoriously tricky. It’s best to plant transplants. When choosing transplants, choose vigorous plants with healthy leaves. Before purchasing, remove the transplant from the container to ensure it is not overgrown or rootbound.
The best time to plant rosemary will vary depending on your location. It is generally recommended to wait until the last frost has passed before planting. Older plants tolerate frost, but young plants like warm soil to help them get established.
Plant rosemary from fall to early spring if you live in a mild winter climate. In the low desert of Arizona, plant rosemary from October to November and from February through April for the best results. Give plants ample time to establish their roots before the summer heat sets in. This low desert planting guide is available in my shop.
Planting guide for the low desert of Arizona
In zones 8 and higher, rosemary is grown as a perennial and can grow large (several feet (1 m) wide and tall ). Give rosemary room to grow.
Live in a humid area? Provide plenty of airflow; don’t crowd (allow 2-4 feet (.6-1.2 m) in every direction), and ensure it has good drainage. In zones 7 and lower, grow in a container and bring it indoors during the winter.
Terra cotta pots are a good choice for growing rosemary in containers. The porous nature of terra cotta allows the plant to dry out between waterings, which helps prevent root rot.
3. Don’t stress over caring for rosemary
Rosemary thrives on neglect, making it a low-maintenance addition to your garden. Water it often until it establishes, then let it do its thing. Just remember to let the soil dry out between waterings and avoid over-soaking. It’s as simple as that! Read this post, “How to Grow Herbs in Hot Climates,” for more tips about caring for herbs.
An annual light top dressing of compost or mulch in early spring nourishes the microbial life in the soil. Additional fertilizer is not recommended.
4. Harvest rosemary – but not too much!
It’s best not to prune more than ⅓ of the plant at one time.If desired, prune lightly each spring or fall for shape. This means removing the top few inches of the plant to encourage bushier growth. Cutting back more than that or extensive pruning during the year’s hottest months will stress the plant.
Harvest individual sprigs as needed. Young stems have the freshest flavor. Rosemary flowers have a more subtle flavor than the leaves but are edible and make a beautiful garnish.
If you can grow rosemary year-round, use it fresh; there is no need to preserve it. Young stems have the most flavor. I rarely preserve it. However, you can preserve it by drying, freeze-drying, or freezing.
Strip rosemary leaves before drying and storing. Tostrip leaves from the stem, hold the tip and pull it upward through pinched fingers or a grater.
5. Propagate unlimited rosemary from cuttings
Unlock the potential of unlimited rosemary with propagation. It’s a breeze to propagate in late winter or early spring.
Choose young shoots that aren’t flowering and are 6-8 inches long. Remove the bottom half of the leaves and root in water. Change the water every few days to keep the environment oxygenated and prevent rotting.
After a few weeks, you should notice root hairs forming in the water. Pot up the rooted cuttings when several roots are an inch or more long. It’s an exciting process and fun to grow new plants.
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Learn how to grow sweet peas with these 5 tips, and add beautiful and sweet-smelling blooms to your garden. Sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden.
Sweet peas growing in Butchart Gardens
I first saw sweet peas at The Butchart Gardens in British Columbia, and I was blown away by their beauty. When I grew my own, I was blown away by something else… the smell! I wish you could smell them. People often tell me this flower (and the smell!) reminds them of their mom’s or grandma’s garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Sweet Peas
1. Plant sweet peas early in the season
The best time to plant sweet peas depends on your location and climate, but in general, sweet pea seeds can be directly sown into the ground in early spring or fall, when the soil temperature is around 50-60°F (10-15°C).
Sweet peas prefer cool soil and bloom best before the weather gets hot. In zones 7 and colder, start seeds indoors and transplant sweet peas as soon as the soil is dry enough to work in. Don’t wait until after the last frost.
In mild winter areas (zone 8-10) like the low desert of Arizona, plant in the fall from October through January.
Start seeds indoors: September – January Plant seeds or transplants outside: October – February
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
2. Choose the best type of sweet peas for your area and preferences
Many sweet pea varieties are day-length sensitive, meaning they grow best in certain areas of the country. Choose a type that will grow well in your area. The fragrance differs between types as well.
3. Plant and care for sweet peas as they grow
Choosing a location:
In most areas, choose a location in full sun. Sweet peas prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Choose a location that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day and has good drainage. If your summers are very hot such as in Arizona, choose a location that gets morning sun and some afternoon shade.
Sweet peas grow well in soil amended with plenty of compost and organic matter. Sweet peas prefer soil a bit on the alkaline side; amend with lime if soil is acidic.
How to plant sweet peas:
Plant seeds 1 inch deep, 2-3 inches apart. Thin to about 5 inches apart when seedlings are 2-3 inches tall so that each plant has enough space to grow and receive enough nutrients.
Mulch around the base: Mulching around the base of the sweet pea plant can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce weed growth.
Provide regular water and fertilization: Sweet peas need regular watering and fertilization to produce healthy plants and abundant blooms. Water deeply and consistently, and fertilize every few weeks with a balanced fertilizer.
Watch for pests and diseases: Sweet peas can be susceptible to pests and diseases, such as aphids, slugs, and powdery mildew. Look for any signs of infestation or disease and take action as needed.
Pruning sweet peas:
Pinch off the tips of young plants: When the young plants have developed four to six leaves, pinch off the top one to two inches of growth. This will encourage bushier growth and more blooms.
Remove dead or damaged growth: As with any plant, it’s important to remove dead or damaged growth. This will help promote healthy new growth and prevent disease.
Remove spent flowers: As mentioned earlier, removing spent flowers (deadheading) can help prolong blooming and encourage the plant to produce more flowers.
Cut back after the first flush of blooms: Once the first flush of blooms has faded and if temperatures are still cool, you can cut the plant back by half to encourage new growth and more flowers.
Don’t prune too hard: While pruning can be beneficial, it’s important not to prune too hard or too late in the season. Pruning too hard or too late can remove next year’s blooms and weaken the plant.
4. Give sweet peas support as they grow
Most sweet peas can grow to heights of 8-10 feet. Put trellises in place before you plant so as not to disturb the roots. Guide young plants to the trellis and then tendrils will find supports and climb.
Remember to choose a support structure that is sturdy enough to hold the weight of the sweet pea vines as they grow. It’s also a good idea to provide support early on in the sweet pea’s growth to avoid damaging the plant later on.
Ideas for supporting sweet peas:
Trellis: One of the most common ways to support sweet peas is to use a trellis. You can buy a trellis or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes. Train the sweet pea vines onto the trellis as they grow.
Netting: Another option is to use plastic netting, which can provide support for the sweet pea vines as they climb. You can attach the netting to wooden stakes or plastic poles.
Arches: If you want to create a unique look in your garden, consider using arches to support your sweet peas. You can buy metal or wooden arches, or create your own from bent PVC pipes.
Fences: If you have a fence in your garden, train the sweet pea vines to climb up it. You can also attach netting or string to the fence to help support the vines.
Obelisks: Obelisks are tall, narrow structures that can provide support for sweet peas. You can buy obelisks or make your own from wood or bamboo stakes.
Hanging baskets: Sweet peas can also be grown in hanging baskets. Plant the sweet pea seeds in the bottom of the basket and train the vines to climb up the sides and over the top.
5. Tips for encouraging more sweet pea blooms
To prolong sweet pea blooms, you can take a few steps:
Deadhead regularly: As the sweet peas begin to fade or wilt, remove them to encourage the plant to keep producing more flowers. Harvesting sweet peas regularly can help promote more blooms and prevent the plant from becoming too leggy or top-heavy.
Keep the soil moist: Sweet peas prefer well-draining soil that is consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water regularly, especially during dry spells, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out completely.
Fertilize regularly: Sweet peas are heavy feeders and can benefit from regular fertilization if you have a long growing season. Use a balanced fertilizer every 3-4 weeks if desired.
Provide support: This will help the sweet peas produce more blooms and help prevent the plant from becoming tangled or overstressed.
Keep them cool: Mulch around the base of the plant to help keep the soil cool and the roots moist.
Harvesting tips for cut flowers
Once blooms begin, harvest at least every other day to encourage blooming.
Blossoms will not open more once cut; harvest when all but the top few blossoms are open.
Harvest blooms in the morning.
Put stems in water right away.
Blooms last 5-7 days; adding sugar or a floral preservative will increase vase life by a few days.
Unharvested blooms will develop seed pods, and blooms will stop. Save seeds to plant the following season. Be aware that hybrid varieties may not be true to type when saved.
Overall, sweet peas are a relatively easy flower to grow and can add beauty, fragrance, and charm to any garden. Provide them with the right growing conditions and support, and you’ll be rewarded with a stunning display of flowers.
Comment below if you have questions about how to grow sweet peas, or share varieties of sweet peas you’ve tried and loved.
Peaches are the ultimate summer fruit – sweet, juicy, and fragrant. But growing them can be challenging, especially if you’re a beginner. The good news is that you can learn how to grow delicious peaches in your garden with some knowledge. Learn how to grow peach trees and grow the best peaches you’ve ever tasted. There’s nothing better than picking a ripe peach from the tree and eating it right in the garden.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
8 Tips for How to Grow Big & Tasty Peaches
1. Choose the right peach variety for your climate
The first step to growing great peaches is selecting the right variety for your areaand climate. Check with local growers and neighbors to see what grows well.
A common misconception when selecting peach trees is assuming that all varieties can grow in any climate. Understanding chill hours plays a significant role in making the decision of which variety of peach tree to plant.
Chill hours are the number of cold hours (usually between 32°F – 45°F / 0°C – 7.2°C) a peach tree needs during its dormant winter period to produce fruit effectively. Each variety has specific chill hour requirements, which, if met, will help the tree blossom and yield fruit optimally.
Start by checking local agricultural extension offices or online resources for the average chill hours in your region. Then, pick a peach variety with chill hour requirements that match your area’s conditions.
Seek out local growers and nurseries that can make this process simple. Avoid purchasing fruit online unless you know it will grow well in your area.
Other considerations when deciding which peach tree to plant:
Plant fruit you enjoy eating! Try to sample the fruit before you buy a tree. (Another reason why purchasing from a local grower is important).
Ensure the tree you purchase is self-fruitful (does not need a different type of tree for pollination) unless you plan on planting both types of trees.
Select small, healthy trees with established grafts and a strong root system.
This fruit planting guide lists the varieties of peaches (and many other types of fruit) that grow well in the low desert of Arizona.
2. Plant your peach tree correctly and in the best location
Peach tree location guidelines:
Enough room to reach maturity (look at the mature size on the plant information tag).
At least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight.
Do not plant in lawn areas.
If you have a peach tree already growing in a lawn area, adjust the watering from shallow, frequent watering to a longer and less frequent watering cycle. This is better for trees and it’s better for the grass too!
Peach tree planting guidelines:
Plant container-grown plants in fall or spring. Bare root trees should be planted in early spring.
Dig a wide, shallow hole just deep enough for the roots.
Backfill the hole with native, unamended soil. Do not amend the planting area. Roots adapt to the soil conditions of your garden.
Do not plant too deeply or bury the graft.
Tamp the soil down and water it well to settle the soil.
3. How to Grow Peach Trees: Learn how to prune your peach tree
Proper pruning helps maintain the tree’s shape and size and prevents common diseases and pest infestations. Consider keeping your fruit trees small and manageable. The book “Grow a Little Fruit Tree” is an invaluable guide for pruning and size management in the home garden.
Key concepts for successful pruning:
Initial Hard Prune: Prune fruit tree to knee high. This keeps the overall size of the tree small.
Early Years: Young peach trees require formative pruning to establish a strong framework and root system. In the first few years, focus on creating an open center shape, removing overcrowded or crossing branches to promote airflow and light penetration.
Winter Pruning: During the tree’s dormant season, prune to remove dead, damaged, or diseased wood and open up the tree’s interior. This helps prevent the spread of diseases and encourages healthy growth in the spring. Remember, peach trees bear fruit on last year’s wood. Keep the number of branches manageable for better quality fruit.
Summer Pruning: Lightly pruning in the summer months helps maintain a manageable tree size and slows the tree’s growth.
Winter pruning
4. Learn how to water your peach tree correctly
Watering your peach tree correctly encourages deep roots and promotes healthy growth.
Young trees need more frequent watering (but less of it) than established trees.
For mature trees, the key is to water deeply but less often. A good rule of thumb is to water your tree about once a week while it’s actively growing and saturate the soil to a depth of at least 18 inches.
Let the soil dry out at a few inches down before you water again. Avoid getting water on the leaves or fruit, which can cause fungal problems.
Adjust the frequency based on rainfall and soil type. Sandy soil may need more frequent watering, while clay soil retains moisture longer. Over-watering can lead to root rot and other diseases while under-watering can stress the tree and hinder fruit production.
Signs of over-watering include yellowing leaves and wilted new growth.
Underwatered trees may have wilting or curling leaves, stunted growth, and reduced fruit size.
Use a hose or drip irrigation system to water at the tree’s drip line, allowing the water to penetrate deeply into the soil. Avoid wetting the foliage to prevent fungal diseases.
Add a layer of organic mulch around the tree (leaving some space around the trunk) to help retain moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weeds.
5. How to Grow Peach Trees: Fertilize your peach tree as needed
Apply organic fertilizer in late winter or early spring. Give your tree a boost by adding compost and/or worm castings to the soil around the tree anytime during the growing season.
6. Thin the fruit to improve quality
Thinning your peach tree might feel counterintuitive, but trust me; it’s worth it! Properly thinning your peach tree allows the tree to focus its energy on growing fewer, larger peaches. On average, remove up to 75% of the fruit.
Early Thinning: Thin your peach tree as soon as the fruits are about the size of a dime (20 mm). Leave at least 6 inches (15 cm) between each fruit to prevent overcrowding.
Second Round: Check back after a week or two and then thin it again if needed. This ensures the tree isn’t wasting energy on too many small fruits. Allowing it to focus on producing larger, tastier peaches.
Keeping your peach tree pruned to a comfortable height makes it easier to reach and thin the fruit.
Quality Over Quantity: Remember, having fewer but bigger and juicier peaches is better than an abundance of small, hard ones.
Another benefit of keeping peach trees small is that you don’t need a ladder to harvest the fruit. Allow the fruit to ripen on the tree as long as possible. Peaches will soften once picked but won’t get any sweeter. Look for firm but slightly soft fruit, a vibrant color change, and a sweet aroma as indicators that it’s ready to be picked.
The birds often know when the fruit is ripe before we do. To protect your peaches from birds and other animals, consider picking them a little earlier than fully ripe and putting them in a paper sack to let them ripen.
Even with our best efforts, the birds peck a few (or many) peaches from our trees. I feed the pecked peaches to my chickens and also add the pecked peaches to my in-bed vermicomposting bins. The chickens relish the fruity treat, and the worms work their magic, transforming the leftovers into nutrient-rich worm castings.
8. Store and use peaches in a variety of ways
Handle peaches carefully; they bruise very easily. Once ripe, peaches need to be eaten or processed quickly. Putting them in the fridge gives you a couple of extra days before they go bad.
Freezing: To remove the skins, blanch peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds, then transfer to ice water to cool. The skins will slip easily from the peach. Slice and store in airtight containers or freezer bags.
Canning: Prepare a simple syrup (sugar and water), peel and slice peaches, pack them into jars, and cover them with the syrup. Process in a water bath canner according to proper canning guidelines.
Common peach tree diseases and pests can be difficult, but the best way to prevent them is by keeping your tree healthy through proper care. Enough sunlight, proper planting, consistent watering, careful pruning, and overall attentive care for your tree will help it build resilience against diseases like leaf curl, brown rot, and pests like borers or aphids. A healthy, well-maintained peach tree is more likely to withstand these challenges.
Learning how to grow peach trees requires a little effort, but the rewards are well worth it. By choosing the right peach variety for your area, learning how to prune your tree, watering deeply, fertilizing, thinning, and harvesting properly, you can grow delicious, juicy peaches that will make your mouth water.
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What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in March? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona.
March in the low desert Arizona garden is one of the most beautiful times of the year. Take time to enjoy your garden this month. Many gardens offer garden tours during the month of March. Enjoy the beautiful weather at the tour and take note of plants, flowers, trees, and vegetables you see growing and would like to add to your landscape.
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
“Spring makes its own statement, so loud and clear that the gardener seems to be only one of his instruments, not the composer.”
Geoffrey Charlesworth
There are important garden tasks to do in March, such as pruning frost-damaged plants and thinning fruit trees (see a list of garden tasks for March below). Harvests from fall plantings are ending as planting continues for the spring and summer gardens.
Keep reading for garden inspiration, a March garden checklist, and a list of vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your low desert Arizona garden in March.
Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in March
Cucumbers grow best with a long warm (but not hot) growing season. To overcome the challenges of growing cucumbers in Arizona, the key is to plant cucumbers early in the season and plant short-season varieties that will ripen before the hottest days of summer.
Asparagus harvests begin in late February and continue throughout the month of March. Harvest stalks that are at least ¼ inch in diameter. Let smaller stalks grow through the summer to give energy to the roots.
If you aren’t growing asparagus, consider dedicating a 4 foot by 4 foot raised bed for growing it. Plant asparagus November through February in the low desert of Arizona.
SquashSwiss ChardTomatillosCelery
Tips for growing flowers in the low desert Arizona garden in March
In Arizona, plant sunflowers from February through July, so you can enjoy the blooms nearly year-round. Pops of yellow flowers brighten up a summer yard. Learning how to grow sunflowers is an easy way to add color and variety to a summer garden and yard.
Purple lilac vine is in bloom in February and March. This Australian native flowers in winter. It can be grown on a trellis or as a ground cover. The vine has green foilage when not in flower.
Wildflowers planted back in the fall put on a show for much of February and March. Plant wildflower seeds of cosmos, poppies, lupine, blue flax and more in the fall.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in March
Plant fruit trees this month. Look for trees with low chill hours (less than 400), mature early, and self-pollinate. This fruit planting guide has a list of fruit trees that do well in the low desert of Arizona.
As blossoms become fruit on your fruit trees, fruit should be thinned before it is an inch in diameter. Thin fruit within about a month after full bloom. Fruit thinned later than this lessens the chance that fruit size will increase. For more information, read this article.
Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in March
Harvest chamomile when the petals are flat or beginning to fall back from bud. Harvest flowers on a sunny day after dew has dried. Flowers can be air-dried or dried in a dehydrator – they are dry when flower crumbles easily. Use 1 teaspoon of dried petals in a diffuser per cup of water for tea. If using fresh flowers for tea, double amounts – drying flowers concentrates the flavor and oils. Read this article for more information about how to grow chamomile.
Consider planting borage next to each tomato plant. The bees and your tomatoes will thank you. Read this article for more information about how to grow borage.
Plant fruit trees early in the month so they have time to settle in before the summer heat. Look for varieties that require less than 400 chill hours, have early maturing fruit, and are self-pollinating.
Plant roses this month on the north or east sides of the yard that receive afternoon shade in the summer. Use code GARDENAZ24 at Heirloom Roses for 20% off through 2024.
Plant cold-tolerant trees, bushes, perennials, and frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus. Plant summer flowering shrubs. Do not over-plant; be aware of the plant’s mature size and space accordingly.
Although the weather is still cool, think twice before planting cool-season annuals this month. It will be heating up soon, and their time in the ground will be short. Better to plant warm-season annuals when they are available.
Check irrigation system and timer. Run system, and inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
As temperatures heat up, annual plants will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 6 inches, and allow top of soil to dry out before watering again.
Check containers with a moisture meteror make sure top inch or so of soil has dried out before watering.
Water established citrus trees once every 2-3 weeks.
Water established fruit trees once every 7-10 days.
Thin warm-season annuals to keep plants from overcrowding each other.
Clean up and remove dead or damaged wood and crossing branches on citrus.
Remove dead plants in yard. Look at the landscape and make note of how plants look and their performance. March is a good time to transplant and move plants within your yard to areas where they get more or less sun, depending on the needs of the plants.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of shrubs and trees. Mulching reduces soil temperatures and adds organic matter to the soil.
What to plant in the low desert Arizona garden in March:
Before Planting:
Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in March
(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona
The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona. It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.
Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during March
(Click the link for seed sources.)
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Flowers to plant in the low desert garden in March
(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in March
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
If you enjoyed this post about gardening in Arizona during March, please share it:
Statice blooms are easy to grow, attract beneficial pollinators, and are known for their long-lasting and colorful blooms. If you live in a mild-winter area, it may even become a short-lived perennial. In addition, statice is on many florists’ lists of favorite filler flowers. In this blog, I’ll guide you through how to grow statice from seed all the way to harvesting and using the cut flowers. Let’s get started!
Gulf fritillary butterfly on Apricot Beauty Statice
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
A Little Bit About Statice Flowers:
The cream blooms are the flowers, and the peach petals are calyxes.
The botanical name for statice is Limonium sinuatum, and it is a popular plant in the plumbago family. Statice produces clusters of small, colorful flowers that bloom throughout the summer and fall months.
Statice first forms a large rosette, followed by several thick stems topped with the statice flowers and calyxes.
One of the most attractive features of statice is the long-lasting flowers. The blooms can last for several weeks or even months, depending on the conditions. This makes it a popular choice for cut flower arrangements, dried flower arrangements, and even as a border plant in gardens.
Starting Statice Seeds Indoors:
Transplanting statice (not direct sowing) is recommended. Statice seeds should be started indoors about 6-8 weeks before the planting date in your area.
Read this blog post for more information about how to start seeds indoors.
When to Plant Statice Outside:
In cold-winter areas, transplant statice outside on your last frost date. Mild-winter areas often plant statice in the late fall or early spring.
Dates for planting statice in the low desert of Arizona: Start statice seeds indoors from September – October. Plant statice transplants outdoors from mid-October through November.
Statice covered in frost on a cold January morning in Arizona.
Established statice plants are somewhat frost-tolerant.
How to Plant and Care for Statice as it Grows:
Choose a location with at least 6-8 hours of sunlight and rich, well-draining soil. Amend the planting area with compost if desired. Space the plants 12″-18″ (30-45 cm) apart, and water them lightly after planting.
Statice plants require minimal care once established. Water them deeply every 7-10 days, and ensure the soil is evenly moist but not saturated. Fertilize occasionally with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer meant for flowers. If you aren’t harvesting flowers for cut flowers, deadhead them to encourage new blooms.
Statice plants grow 24″-30″ (60-76 cm) tall and usually don’t require staking.
Harvesting Statice for Cut Flowers:
Harvest statice blooms for cut flowers once they are fully formed and have reached their vibrant color. Cut the flower stems at the base of the plant and remove any leaves or small branches.
Arrange the flowers in a vase with fresh water; they’ll last for weeks.
Statice flowers are perfect for drying and using as dried flowers. The papery texture of statice becomes more pronounced when dried.
To dry statice stems:
Gather the stems into small bunches.
Tie stems together with string, a rubber band, or floral wire.
Hang upside down, allowing adequate spacing between bunches.
Drying time varies due to the length of stems and conditions. Decrease drying time by increasing temperature or adding air movement with a fan.
How to Use Statice Flowers in Arrangements:
Statice blooms look beautiful alone or when paired with other flowers in a bouquet or arrangement. They add a pop of color and texture to floral designs and are perfect for adding height and structure. Statice flowers can also be used in wreaths and dried arrangements.
This post shares tips and tricks for making beautiful flower arrangements from the garden.
How Long Does Statice Last in the Garden?
Although usually grown as an annual, statice plants can last several seasons in the garden in mild-winter climates. The most abundant blooms will be from early spring through summer.
Learning how to grow statice is a fun and rewarding gardening project. From planting seeds indoors to harvesting cut flowers, statice is a low-maintenance plant that adds color and beauty to any garden bed or floral arrangement. Happy gardening!
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Chamomile’s daisy-like flowers are a beautiful and practical addition to your garden. Roman and German chamomile are two common types of this popular herb. Learn the differences between the two types and how to grow chamomile with these five tips.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Chamomile
1. Understand the differences between German and Roman Chamomile
German and Roman chamomile have many similarities but also a few key differences:
2. Plant chamomile correctly and at the right time.
German chamomile does best started from transplants. Plant German chamomile after last spring frost date.
Roman chamomile does best started from transplants. Plant Roman chamomile when soil temperatures reach 45°F.
Space both types of plants 8 inches – 12 inches apart.
If growing from seed, scatter chamomile seeds and lightly cover them with dirt. Keep soil moist until the seeds sprout. Thin to groups of 2 or 3 plants about 8 inches apart.
Chamomile grows in full sun, but needs partial shade while roots are getting established.
Plant 1-2 chamomile plants per square foot for square foot gardening.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Chamomile’s daisy-like flowers are a beautiful and practical addition to your garden. Roman and German chamomile are two common types of this popular herb. Learn the differences between the two types and how to grow chamomile with these five tips.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
5 Tips for How to Grow Chamomile
1. Understand the differences between German and Roman Chamomile
German and Roman chamomile have many similarities but also a few key differences:
2. Plant chamomile correctly and at the right time.
German chamomile does best started from transplants. Plant German chamomile after last spring frost date.
Roman chamomile does best started from transplants. Plant Roman chamomile when soil temperatures reach 45°F.
Space both types of plants 8 inches – 12 inches apart.
If growing from seed, scatter chamomile seeds and lightly cover them with dirt. Keep soil moist until the seeds sprout. Thin to groups of 2 or 3 plants about 8 inches apart.
Chamomile grows in full sun, but needs partial shade while roots are getting established.
Plant 1-2 chamomile plants per square foot for square foot gardening.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
