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Tara Nolan
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Make a Simple Organic Fertilizer for Healthy Indoor Plants – Garden Therapy
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Without access to all the goodness of outdoor soil, your indoor plants are going to need a good houseplant fertilizer to get their nutrients. 100% natural, this organic fertilizer recipe is one of the 80+ from my herbal garden recipe book, Garden Alchemy. It will keep your houseplants happy, healthy, and blooming for stunning indoor displays.
Do houseplants need fertilizer? While outdoor plants source nutrients found in the soil and their ecosystem, houseplants don’t have the same luxury. Due to the closed system of soil they live in, houseplants are completely dependent on their human plant parents for available nutrients.
There are times when it’s easier to use a liquid fertilizer than a granular one, such as when you are watering houseplants. In the summer, houseplants respond to warmth and light, and it stimulates their growth. Applying this liquid houseplant fertilizer will ensure they are getting all the nutrients they need for this growth period.
Many homebrew liquid fertilizers have microorganisms that support healthy outdoor soil but are not great for indoor soil. Specifically crafted with houseplants in mind, this DIY fertilizer will help them thrive, bloom, and grow.
There are lots of recipes in my book, Garden Alchemy, for the home gardener to apply organic methods in the home and out in the garden. Set up like a cookbook, you’ll find a ton more fertilizer recipes, as well as pest deterrents, potting mixes, and other projects and elixirs to boost your garden. This excerpt on organic fertilizer for houseplants was reprinted with permission by Cool Springs Press. Find the book in your country!
This post will cover…
It can be much more economical (and satisfying) to create your own houseplant fertilizer blend. What is the Best Fertilizer for Indoor Plants?
Organic vs Synthetic
When it comes to choosing a fertilizer, first we must look at the key differences between organic and synthetic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are derived from minerals, plants, and animal products, while synthetic fertilizers are synthesized chemicals of nutrients.
Synthetic fertilizer molecules are made to be readily available to plants and, therefore, can be hard to regulate. It’s easy to over-apply synthetic fertilizer and cause plants to take up too much nutrition too quickly, causing fertilizer “burn.”
Organic fertilizers are more forgiving because, often, they are not as readily available for plants. Natural organic fertilizers are broken down more slowly and, therefore, regulate the speed at which the nutrients are available, encouraging the plant to grow stable roots and expand the area in which they collect nutrients.
Liquid vs Granular
You can find synthetic and organic houseplant fertilizer in both liquid and granular form. Liquid fertilizer is the easiest to use, as you can add it to your watering can while watering the plants. It does need to be done more frequently than granular, but you are minimizing the potential for fertilizer burn.
Granular fertilizer comes in either spikes or pellet forms. You either sprinkle or push the fertilizer into the soil, and the nutrients are slowly released. You can find natural and organic granular fertilizers by checking the ingredient list. If there is none, it is a synthetic fertilizer.
My houseplant fertilizer recipe is an organic liquid formula. In my opinion, this is the best fertilizer for indoor plants and the one I use most regularly. It is easy to make and use and provides eco-friendly, natural growth enhancement.
The key to making your own houseplant fertilizer blend is ensuring there is enough variety in your blend of N-P-K, secondary nutrients, and micronutrients. When Should I Fertilize My Indoor Plants?
Plants are good at letting you know when they need water or more sunlight but not so good at letting you know when they need fertilizer. Stagnant growth is often the biggest indicator and is not as glaringly obvious as a wilted or yellowing leaf.
I primarily use my houseplant fertilizer during the summer. While plants have different needs, these fertilizing guidelines will apply to most houseplants. The plants may live inside, but they grow most in the summer. Since we want to encourage growth, this is the best time to apply fertilizer.
Begin fertilizing in late spring or approximately 8 weeks before the season’s last frost. Start off with smaller doses of fertilizer and work your way up to full strength for the summer. Based on the plant, I use my liquid fertilizer for my indoor plants anywhere from once a week to once a month.
It’s also a good practice to add a slow-release dry fertilizer at planting and again annually. I do this at the beginning of summer.
When summer comes to a close, we want to ease up on fertilizing. Slowly stop fertilizing so that by the first frost, you are no longer adding fertilizer to your indoor plants. They will remain dormant for the winter and will not require any fertilizer.
Like the plants outdoors, indoor plants do most of the growing during the summer months. Should I Fertilize My Sick Plant?
Fertilizers are necessary for indoor plants to thrive but do not solve all plant health issues. Some well-meaning plant parents over-fertilize plants because they think the plant has a nutrient deficiency.
If you have a sick plant, there may be other reasons for their issues. Fertilizers simply enhance the nutrients, so it will only help if your plant is lacking nutrients. Specific nutrient deficiencies will show up as plant health indicators, such as disease, pests, dieback, and discoloration.
Plants can be sick for many reasons. If you have healthy indoor soil, like this indoor soil mix from my soil recipes, then soil fertility is not likely to be the issue. If your plant has pests, yellowing leaves from over-watering, browning leaves from too much sun, or other indicators, fertilizer will not act as miracle medicine. Make sure you know what problem your plant faces before you start fertilizing it like crazy!
Fertilizer won’t revive a dead plant unless the problem is not getting enough nutrients. How to Make Fertilizer
Like any good recipe, it’s all about sourcing quality ingredients. These are my must-have ingredients for creating a fertilizer for indoor plants:
Alfalfa Meal
Alfalfa meal is a source of nitrogen and potassium, plus a broad spectrum of other minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and the growth hormone triacontanol. It helps to improve the soil structure and helps plants access nutrients.
Blood Meal
Blood meal is a by-product of cattle and hog farming that is very high in nitrogen and full of trace minerals. It comes in a dried powder form and can be included in certified organic soil mixes (although this doesn’t necessarily mean that the animal or farm was certified organic).
Note: Alfalfa meal is a plant-based alternative to blood meal, so if you don’t want to use it, substitute with alfalfa meal.
Rock Phosphate
Rock phosphate is a slow-release mineralized source of phosphorous for amending soil. Most home gardens have adequate amounts of phosphorous in the soil and, therefore, are not needed. However, it helps fertilize plants in potting soil and encourages flowering in plants.
Rock phosphate Kelp Meal
Kelp meal has low levels of nitrogen and potassium but works as a soil amendment due to its multitude of readily available trace elements and over 60 naturally chelated minerals. This seaweed extract also improves soil structure, prevents nutrient leaching, and increases soil’s water-holding capacity.
Kelp meal Rainwater
Tap water that comes from municipal sources is often treated with chlorine to remove and suppress microorganism growth. We want to encourage the growth of beneficial organisms as well as retain a plant’s herbal properties. If you don’t have a large enough supply of available rainwater, then allow water to sit in a wide-mouth bucket for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate or use boiled (then cooled) water.
Avoid the use of chlorine in your organic houseplant fertilizer. Organic Fertilizer for Indoor Plants
This DIY fertilizer only takes a few moments to make and will give you plenty of fertilizer to cover all your houseplants for a few months.
Materials
Make It!
- Measure the ingredients and add them to a glass bottle or jar with a lid. Stir well to combine and shake well before each use.
- Dilute the fertilizer by adding ½ cup (120 ml) of the liquid fertilizer blend into 4 cups (950 ml) of water in a watering can. Water houseplants with the diluted fertilizer mix monthly in spring and summer and discontinue use in fall and winter.
- Use the diluted fertilizer immediately. Store the prepared fertilizer in a cool, dark location for up to 3 months. Discard if the liquid shows signs of spoilage, such as discoloration, mold, or an unpleasant odor.
Store for up to three months. Discard if it shows signs of spoilage. If you’re interested in learning more fertilizer recipes, such as ones for outdoor plants or granular fertilizer blends, be sure to check out my book, Garden Alchemy. With over 80 organic gardening recipes, keep your indoor and outdoor plants thriving and natural.
Organic Fertilizer FAQ
Where can I find these ingredients? Do you have to buy them in bulk?Many of these ingredients will be available at garden centres or landscape supply stores. I’ve linked to them throughout the article for those I could find available online. It’s difficult to purchase these in small quantities, so getting them in bulk is your best option. They will last for years when stored properly, and you can make your own fertilizer more economically this way.
How do you use coffee grounds for plants?People will add coffee grounds as a DIY source of nutrients to their plants. Coffee grounds are not a significant source of nutrients, though they contain phosphorous and magnesium. However, many people will add them directly to the soil when it should be composted first. So add your coffee grounds to your compost pile, then once composted, sterilize your compost and add it to your houseplants for a nutrient and soil boost.
How do you know if your houseplants need fertilizer?If your houseplant isn’t pushing out any new growth or stopped flowering, it’s likely a fertilizer problem. They may also have weak stems or show lighter discolouration in the leaves.
More Tips for Growing Houseplants
Houseplant Fertilizer for Healthy Indoor Plants
100% natural, this DIY houseplant fertilizer recipe will keep your houseplants happy, healthy, and blooming for stunning indoor displays.
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Measuring spoons
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Airtight jar
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Measure the ingredients and add them to a glass bottle or jar with a lid. Stir well to combine and shake well before each use.
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Dilute the fertilizer by adding ½cup (120 ml) or the liquid fertilizer blend into 4 cups (950 ml) of water in a watering can. Water houseplants with the diluted fertilizer mix monthly in spring and summer and discontinue use in fall and winter.
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Use the diluted fertilizer immediately. The prepared fertilizer can be stored in a cool, dark location for up to 3 months. Discard if the liquid shows signs of spoilage such as discoloration, mold, or an unpleasant odor.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose
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Goodbye, Fungus Gnats! How to Get Rid of Gnats in Plants – Garden Therapy
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Now you can enjoy your houseplants without having to tolerate any unwanted guests. Wondering how to get rid of fungus gnats? You aren’t alone! Learn how to prevent and how to get rid of gnats in plants naturally.
There’s something refreshing about having houseplants inside your home. They breathe life into a house and also add a nice colorful flair.
Houseplants bring a wonderful, lovely dose of nature indoors where you need it most, further helping us by purifying the air in our homes.
However, at some point, you might notice some unwelcome visitors making your houseplants their home. I’m talking about fungus gnats—those annoying little flies that appear whenever you water your plants. Ugh! Do these houseplant pests plague your plant babies too?
Don’t worry, if you are having gnat problems, there are simple—and natural—ways to not only prevent but also get rid of fungus gnats in soil.
Disclaimer: First, a disclaimer. I love living things and try to support natural insects anytime I can. For example, in the outdoor garden, I work to create a natural ecosystem that supports predators for the pests that attack my plants.
Indoor plants, however, have only a few natural predators that want to kill fungus gnats – the people and pets they annoy! Unfortunately, the only reasonable way to get rid of fungus gnats in your house is to kill off the pests you have and treat your plants to prevent future infestations.
In this post, we will cover:
What Are Fungus Gnats and How Do They Get in the House?
Fungus gnats, also known as soil gnats, are small dark insects that look similar to fruit flies and live in the soil of houseplants. When you have them, you will notice them when you water your plants or disturb the soil in other ways.
One way to get fungus gnats is to leave your houseplants outside. Most often, though, they come straight from the nursery. You don’t realize it because they hide in the soil until you bring them home unknowingly.
Their larvae eat plant roots and fungi in the soil. Then they suddenly appear in houseplants after the larvae hatch.
Why Are Fungus Gnats Bad?
While these pests are a nuisance in noticeable numbers, it might be comforting (on some level) to know that the adults are harmless insects that do not bite.
Also, they don’t do much damage to strong, healthy plants, but they can cause wilting yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and even death in seedlings and more fragile plants.
But honestly, nobody wants a swarm of gnats flying in your face every time you water your houseplants. Yuck.
When Are You Most Likely to Find Fungus Gnats?
Nuisance problems with fungus gnat adults tend to be most noticeable during late fall and winter, for a couple of reasons:
- Houseplants that live outdoors during warm months will commonly start breeding fungus gnats. When these plants are brought indoors, populations may increase due to the warmer temperatures found in homes.
- People are indoors more during the colder months, making it easier to notice an infestation.
How to Get Rid of Fungus Gnats
Killing off soil gnats is really not very difficult, and thankfully, you don’t need to bug bomb your home (yay). It all has to do with disrupting their life cycle and making your home inhospitable for these pests. Here’s how to naturally treat your houseplants and get rid of gnats in the soil.
Make the Natural Habitat Inhospitable
Fungus gnat larvae need moist soil to survive. By letting it dry out completely before your next watering, it will get rid of the gnats in the soil and discourage new adults from laying fungus gnat eggs, thus effectively cutting out the larval stage altogether.
Use a Soap-and-Water Mixture
Take a cup of water and add a few drops of liquid dish soap or liquid Castille soap. Use a spray bottle to spray the top of the soil with this to kill the larvae. Repeat this process again in a few days to ensure that you have killed all of the larvae.
While some people recommend vinegar traps, I have found the soap and water to be more effective. Vinegar (and in particular a bowl of apple cider vinegar) is better suited for making a fruit fly trap.
Use Sand or Gravel
Fungus gnats only lay their eggs in the top inch of soil. Replacing that top inch with sand or gravel creates a dry environment and robs them of nutrient-rich fungus to munch on. Without their needed source of food available, they won’t want to lay their eggs.
You can also use pretty decorative aquamarine rocks and add a splash of color to some of your favorite plant babies.
Dispose of the Top Layer of Soil Outdoors
The eggs can still hatch. Let them hatch outside rather than somewhere in your home. You don’t want to just move your pests from one part of the house to another.
By taking all of these steps, you can naturally control and prevent fungus gnat infestations.
How to Prevent Fungus Gnats
Let’s chat about the steps you can take to prevent these annoying pests from ever entering your life in the first place!
Don’t Overwater Your Houseplants
Make sure you aren’t overwatering your plants. Moisture is a big plus for gnats, so to make their new environment inhospitable, you need to let the soil they live in dry out completely.
Neither adult gnats nor their larvae can survive in dry soil, so let your soil dry out completely between watering as often as possible. Here’s an entire guide devoted to teaching how to water your houseplant properly.
Water From the Bottom
Bottom watering will help the topsoil (where the gnats lay eggs) stay dry while keeping your plants hydrated and happy.
If you keep your potting soil in the bag it comes in, fungus gnats can easily get in and lay their eggs. However, the eggs need air to survive, so airtight containers like buckets with tight-fitting lids will keep gnat larvae at bay.
Now That Takes Care of Gnats, but What About Other Houseplant Pests?
Expert David Squire popped by as a guest of Garden Therapy to share information on 8 of the other most common indoor plant pests and how to get rid of them. He has some great tips and tricks here for getting rid of houseplant pests!
Love houseplants? These Posts Are Great Reads
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose
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The Best Terrarium Plants for Stunning Displays – Garden Therapy
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These terrarium plants are best suited for the small, confined, humid environment that is unique to a closed-in terrarium. You can make incredible displays using a wide variety of different containers—many of which you may already have at home. Choosing the right terrarium plants makes it easy to enjoy these spectacular houseplants without fussing over their care.
Terrariums are a fun way to bring something different to typical houseplant displays. They are also incredibly easy to care for, provided you use the right plants to begin with. That’s why I’ve put together this list of the best plants for terrariums to help you experience the joy of indoor gardening!
Terrarium Containers to Try
Before we get into talking about the best terrarium plants, let’s chat quickly about the containers. Choosing your terrarium containers will have a huge impact on how the final project looks.
You can easily find suitable containers at a local gardening store, or even a thrift store. Of course, there are plenty of great online options too!
Just make sure to choose a glass container that has airflow—airtight containers will suffocate your plant. Here are a few of my favorite terrarium containers:
Remember, you can also go for the unexpected! It’s part of the fun of terrarium making. You can even make one of these terrarium nightlights for something unique. Just have fun with it—it’s hard to go wrong.
The Best Terrarium Plants
There is a seemingly endless amount of terrarium plants to choose from. I put together some of my favorites on this list, each with varying sizes, colors, and textures. I like to use a combination of plants so that they look pleasing when planted in combination with one another.
Remember, nothing with terrariums has to be permanent. That’s the beauty of plants! If you don’t like how it looks, or if you want to try a new look, simply rearrange them and try again.
Cryptanthus bivittatus
Cryptanthus bivittatus is more commonly known as “earth star.” This terrarium plant is a bromeliad that is small with a starburst shape. The spiky plant gets up to six inches tall and six inches wide and has foliage tinged with either bright pink or purple around the edges, so it really stands out against other plants in a terrarium.
This plant does well in sunlight, so if you find a sunny window, it might be the perfect spot for this terrarium plant. If your earth star looks pale, trying moving it to a brighter spot. Water them as often as you find the soil is dry with small amounts at a time.
Frittonia
Frittonia has the common name “nerve plant” because if they don’t get enough water they will fade quickly or “faint.” To prevent this, be sure to water them regularly. Don’t worry, though, they are easy enough to revive if you forget to water them—simply give the plant a good soak and it will spring back.
This terrarium plant likes humid environments and low light, so these plants are perfect to brighten up a dark corner of the house or even the bathroom. Plus, their vibrant pink, white, or red-veined leaves will add a pop of color wherever they are displayed. These plants tend to grow well with soil that can retain moisture but also drain well.
Peperomia orba
Also called “pixie” peperomia, this little houseplant grows well in both low light and bright conditions. These plants prefer their soil more dry than wet, so you do not need to over water.
If you have had a hard time growing indoor plants in the past, give this one a try. It does not need much attention at all and is a slow grower, so it is the perfect plant to plunk into a terrarium and not have to think twice about it. Plus, its variegated leaves are striking with bright white stripes which will add interest and contrast nicely with other plants in your terrarium.
Pilea
Pilea plants come in many different varieties, most of which thrive and look beautiful in terrariums. Some species have bright colors, interesting variegation, and saw-tooth leaves, while others are bright green with small, very round leaves, so there is a lot to choose from in terms of aesthetics. One of the most common varieties is the Chinese Money Plant, which works well as a larger terrarium plant or a house plant.
There are also creeping varieties which work well in terrariums as they will crawl and spill over the edges. These plants do well in either indirect sunlight or shade. Keep the soil relatively dry—you’ll be able to see the leaves slightly droop when more water is required.
Selaginella
Also known as “club moss,” Selaginella is a lush moss with delicate, lacy frills that make it look like something from an enchanted forest. It loves humidity and low-light conditions, making this one of the best terrarium plants. Keep the soil moist but not soggy and your club moss will be very content.
I have quite a fondness for moss as they add unexpected texture and visual interest while also being simple to care for. If you’d like to read more about moss plants in terrariums, read this post.
Tillandsia
I know I’m not supposed to have favorites, but when it comes to plants in terrariums…this may be the one. I’m wild about air plants, as you may have noticed. Tillandsia is a great choice for terrariums of all kinds as they don’t even need soil to grow. They come in a lot of different shapes, sizes, and colors and are easy to care for if you know the right tricks.
To keep these plants properly watered, remove the air plant from the terrarium completely. Then, allow it to take a nice soak in a bowl full of water for an hour or so before returning it home. Do this about once every month.
Love terrariums? Check out these projects:
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose
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The Ultimate Indoor-Outdoor Country House: Pinch Design in Devon
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Every once in a while, we come across a story on sibling site Remodelista that would be just as at home here on Gardenista. Such is the case with Margot’s recent post on the refined, naturalistic Devon home of Russell Pinch and Oona Bannon.
“The two together run Pinch, a London furniture company that is all about refined details, honest materials, and unstinting craftsmanship. They had already devoted years to turning a cow shed in France into a vacation retreat for themselves and their two daughters. Did they have the stamina and the savings for another pipe dream?” writes Margot of their latest project.
Reader, they did. Working closely with award-winning architect David Kohn and landscape architect James Hamilton, the couple crafted a singular home that feels authentically rooted in nature—which is why we’re spotlighting it on Gardenista, too.
Have a look. And be sure to head to Remodelista for the full story (and more photos).
Photography by Michael Sinclair, courtesy of Pinch.
Above: Russell and Oona founded Pinch in 2004 “to create furniture and lighting we would want to live with”—they recently celebrated Pinch’s 20th anniversary by opening a showroom in NYC. The furnishings throughout are Pinch designs mixed in with antiques. 
Above: The couple’s kitchen garden flanks a flagstone entry path. Russell tells us that they initially wanted to be able to park in front—”but in reality, it was awful to walk by the car to get to the front door, so we immediately ripped that out and put in vegetables.” The concrete-framed stainless steel door alludes to the property’s factory past. 
Above: The central new building is clad in locally quarried pink sandstone edged with reclaimed brick. “The back of the house overlooks a newly introduced one-acre wild flower meadow. Russell and Oona worked with landscape designer James Hamilton who planted, among other things, some 500 trees on the rolling property. The combined structures are 2,400 square feet and were recently named UK House & Garden’s Project of the Year. [ad_2]
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How to Make a Stunning Sand Art Terrarium – Garden Therapy
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Once again, terrariums have taken the plant community by storm. With a little bit of a crafty twist, this DIY sand art terrarium is a great way to spice up the living room, hallway, bedside table, or even bathroom. So, get your plant on and make your own terrarium!
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Terrariums are no longer just seen as a revival of a retro 1970’s craft. Modern versions have popped up in florist shops, furniture stores, and lifestyle shops. Attending a terrarium workshop is now a common activity for a bridal shower and mini terrariums grace the tables of many a wedding.
This newfound popularity is likely because terrariums are charming additions to home decor, along with being incredibly fun to make. These terrariums revive another craft from an earlier era…sand art!
Pouring layers of coloured sand around the roots of a tropical plant gives this project as gorgeous a display below the leaves as above.
This is one of the many garden-inspired projects from my book, Garden Made. Be sure to check it out for more green projects inside and outside the home.
Make a DIY Sand Art Terrarium
Making your own sand art terrariums are quite simple. With some florist’s foam hiding beneath the surface and layers of coloured sand, it’s the perfect addition to your indoor garden.
Materials
Instructions
With a sharp knife, cut the foam to both fit in the vase, and at a height that will allow for the plant you have chosen to be completely contained.
Pour one colour of sand around the foam to hold it in place. Layer another colour of sand and fill to the height of the florist foam.
Set your plant, in the pot, on the florist foam.
Pour layers of coloured sand down the sides of the vase until you completely conceal the small pot. Use the end of a thin paintbrush to hold the leaves aside while you add the sand, and then use the brush to dust the sand off the leaves. Use a cloth to wipe the sand dust from the sides of the vase, inside and out.
For a longer-lasting terrarium, give your plant lots of room to grow. If the plants’ roots are crowded in the pot it was purchased in, pot it up into the largest container that still fits inside the vase.
Water with a dropper, turkey baster, or watering can with a thin spout that can direct the water to the soil just under the leaves. Excess water will flow into the highly absorbent florist foam. Set the terrarium in bright, indirect light and trim back plants as flowers fade or leaves grow tall.
Frequently Asked Questions About Making a Sand Art Terrarium
What Plants Are Best for a Terrarium?Cyclamen, polka dot plant, and hart’s-tongue fern are featured in my terrarium. Other great plants include nerve plants, peperomia, pilea, selaginella, and air plants. You can learn more about how to care for these terrarium plants here.
Overall, look for smallish plants of varying heights and colours to get a beautiful terrarium. For enclosed terrariums, choose tropical plants that like humidity.
What Kind of Sand is Good for a Terrarium?In my terrarium, I used coloured sand as it makes the terrarium pop and comes in all kinds of colours. When purchasing coloured sand, look for aquarium-grade sand. It is already treated and safe for use with living things.
Avoid play sand unless the plants are nowhere near it. Made of finer grains, it fills holes rather than creates them. It does not easily allow water to pass through and onwards for our plants.
For cheap and readily available sand that will work, you can also use builder’s sand or horticultural sand. You won’t find these ones in fun colours though!
How Do You Keep Sand Art From Moving?The less movement the better! Once your plant is nestled within your sand art, leave it alone until it’s time to repot it. To avoid your sand layers from mixing with each other, you can add a layer of white glue and wait for it to dry. Similarly, you can use clear candle wax to keep each layer in place.
How Do You Water Plants in a Terrarium?Terrariums that are in enclosed containers will not need very much water. Through evaporation, it will produce quite a bit of humidity on its own. All it will need is a little bit of water every few months with a narrow-spouted watering can directed to the base of the plant. Otherwise, the terrarium is fine all on its own.
For my terrarium, the top remains open. In this case, I water it as frequently as I would normally, according to the plant’s needs. Learn more about terrarium care here.
I think these sand art terrariums are very chic and quite easy to make in under an hour. Let me know how yours turn out in the comments down below!
More Posts About Terrariums
Sand Art Terrariums
These crafty but chic terrariums take less than an hour to make and are sure to add some flair to your indoor garden.
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With a sharp knife, cut the florist foam to fit in the base of the glass container and to give your plant the right height within the container.
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Pour your first layer of sand around the foam to hold it in place. Add a second layer of another colour to the top of the foam.
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Set your plant atop the foam.
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Pour more layers of sand until you reach the top of your pot. Use the end of a paintbrush to carefully hold the leaves out of the way from the sand while pouring.
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Use the paintbrush to sweep any remaining sand from leaves and the inside of the vase.
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Water with a turkey baster or watering can with a narrow spout to the base of the plant. The florist foam will help contain excess water. Place in bright, indirect light.
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose
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Find Good Fortune With The Chinese Money Plant – Garden Therapy
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The handsome Chinese Money Plant has taken the world (and internet) by storm, famous for its unique coin-shaped leaves and deep green colour. But don’t let its delicacy intimidate you! These gorgeous plants are easy to care for and, with a little patience, will make an excellent, propagation-friendly addition to your indoor jungle.
Meet the Chinese Money Plant
The Chinese Money Plant, or Pilea peperomioides, originates from the Yunnan and Sichuan provinces in southern China, where it loves to grow on rocky mountainsides. This flowering beauty belongs to the nettle family, but don’t worry, it won’t sting you!
In fact, it was once believed to bring good fortune due to its distinct, coin-like leaves. It is also commonly called Pilea, Pancake Plant, UFO Plant, or Friendship Plant.
These plants typically grow to reach 30 cm in height and in the right conditions can double in size in only a year, making them perfect and rewarding indoor companions for both home and apartment dwellers.
If you’re willing to invest extra care into this plant, you could even see it bloom, revealing delicate white or pink flowers grown from a purple stem. Below I’ll show you how easy it is to help your pilea thrive.
This post will cover…
Chinese Money Plant Care
Location
Looking to keep your Chinese Money Plant looking as beautiful as when you bought it? This plant loves a bright room kept between 13°C to 30°C—if you have an east-facing window, this little guy would love to be near it in a ceramic pot with a good drainage hole.
Sun
The Chinese Money plant loves bright, indirect light. It’ll love a window, but not the scorching sun! If placed in a west-facing window that gets intense afternoon sun, you’ll see the leaves burn and lighten, and in too much shade the plant could grow tall and lanky.
If your only window options get a lot of direct sunlight, fear not! Investing in a simple, sheer curtain will do this plant a world of good.
Water
Year-round you can let pilea almost dry out between waterings (but not bone dry!), as it doesn’t like to be soaked. Typically you can expect to water your Chinese Money Plant once a week, but make sure to give the soil a quick touch before watering to make sure it isn’t already damp. If you lift your plant and it feels very light, you might have waited too long between waterings and it could use a good drink.
If one day you spot some of the leaves yellowing—the worst, I know!—it’s likely due to overwatering. Try not to panic and make sure to let the soil dry out before giving it its next water. If your plant is sitting on a saucer that fills after watering, don’t let it sit in that extra water for more than a couple of hours.
Soil
Your plant will thank you if given well-drained potting soil, as it doesn’t like to be soggy. Ideally, a soil based on peat coir fiber and perlite will give your plant all the nutrients and drainage it needs to stay happy and growing.
Fertilizer
Though it might be tempting to generously fertilize this pretty plant in the hope of speedy growth and new daughter plants, the Chinese Money Plant only needs fertilization once a month during spring and summer when it is actively growing. It’s best not to fertilize dry soil, so try adding your diluted fertilizer a day after your usual watering.
Common Issues
A common problem you might face with Pilea is yellowing leaves, often due to overwatering. If you see this start to happen, don’t panic! Gently remove the yellow leaves and allow the soil to dry out before your next watering.
If you’re noticing your plant start to droop, it’s thirsty! Give it a good drink and allow the water to drain out of the pot.
How to Propagate Chinese Money Plants
Chinese Money Plants are generous propagators, hence its nickname the Friendship Plant! As your plant grows, you might start to see small daughter plants, also called offsets or pups, growing near the base of the original plant that you can separate and share with your fellow plant-lovers.
Once these offsets grow to an inch or two tall, you’ll be able to separate them into their own pot. Dig gently into the dirt around the daughter plant to expose the roots, then snip it free from the original plant with a clean, sharp pair of scissors.
There should be a small number of roots attached to the new plant to be planted in its new pot with fresh soil. If you accidentally cut off all the roots of this new offset, all is not lost. Pop the cut end of the plant into a little bit of water and wait for new roots to grow, then repot into the new soil.
Frequently Asked Questions About Chinese Money Plants
What is the Meaning of Chinese Money Plant?The Chinese Money Plant earned its name from its round, circular leaves that resemble coins. They used to be considered good luck and capable of bringing their owner’s good fortune, and with how easy it is to propagate them, I like to believe they still can!
Why Are My Chinese Money Plant’s Leaves Curling?If you notice your plant’s leaves start to curl, there could be a number of causes. Most commonly this indicates too little light—your leafy friend might need a brighter spot in your home.
It could also be due to temperatures being too low or too high (this plant’s sweet spot is typically 13°C to 20°C) or incorrect watering. Make sure to follow the care tips above and given a little time and correction, these curled leaves should unfurl.
Note: new leaves will always grow in curled, but they should flatten out over time as they get bigger.
Are Chinese Money Plants Safe for Cats?Chinese Money Plants really are a good fortune for pet lovers! These beauties are non-toxic to both cats and dogs and thus are safe to keep in your home with curious furry friends.
Do you have a Chinese Money Plant at home? Let me know any other care questions you may have in the comments down below!
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A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Living Sculpture: The Haus Plant’s Rob Moffitt on How to Turn Houseplants Into Works of Art – Gardenista
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If the phrase “houseplant stylist” leaves you scratching your head, one look at The Haus Plant’s Instagram account (@thehausplant) will help you understand what Rob Moffitt does. Based in Los Angeles, Moffitt transforms unusual plants into something more like sculpture–and it is a skill that all houseplant lovers can cultivate. “Plants can just get thrown in a corner as a space filler, but I really like to view plants as a piece of art or an object that can stand alone and complement a space,” says Moffitt.
A former nurse, Moffitt began selling houseplants at Los Angeles farmer’s markets during the pandemic. From the beginning, customers were drawn to the unique ways he potted and styled plants. As his side hustle grew, Moffitt decided to give up his work as a nurse and focus on his budding business, which he christened The Haus Plant.
Today, Moffitt has a studio on 3rd Street in Los Angeles, with plans to expand into a larger space next door in 2026. The studio space, which is open for visits by appointment, takes Moffitt’s botanical aesthetic and turns it into a whole immersive, biophilic world. Moffitt has also delved deep into rare and unusual plants as his business has grown.
The Haus Plant has also expanded beyond selling individual plants. Moffitt now offers whole-house consultations for houseplant styling and ongoing maintenance care for its larger clients. The studio even rents out its houseplants to real estate professionals for staging their listings. With the forthcoming larger space, Moffitt is adding a photography studio, a kitchen, a space for private events, and a two-story art gallery. Moffit has also just launched an online store that sells vintage and artisan pots and vessels. “I started this because I wanted a hobby on my days off from the hospital,” Moffitt says. “Now we have a team of 15. It’s really grown far beyond anything I ever could have imagined.”
Gardenista recently spoke with Moffitt about his plant styling. He shared tips for how to elevate even the most humble houseplants to something more akin to art. Here’s how:
Photography by Henry Crouch, courtesy of The Haus Plant, unless otherwise noted.
Know your growing conditions.
Above: Ficus planted over a rock in an antique wooden mortar. Moffitt says the hardest part of his job is setting realistic expectations for clients about what kind of plants they can grow in their conditions. Make an honest assessment of how much light you have before thinking about what plants might work. “Figuring out what’s realistic in the space is really important because at the end of the day, you want a happy plant,” he says.
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How to Grow and Keep Your Monstera Plant Happy – Garden Therapy
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Everyone’s talking about monsteras! These houseplants have some of the most impressive-looking leaves, coated in slits and holes to make them especially unique. The star of the room, learn how to care for your prized monstera plant.
The plant world had no idea what was in store for them the second interior designers started posting photos of monstera plants on Instagram. Arguably the most popular houseplant of the decade, everyone and their cousin seems to have a monstera plant somewhere in their home.
And for good reason! These plants sure know how to draw the eye and become the focal point of the room. Their dramatic leaves add a tropical flair that has inspired prints from bedsheets to wallpaper. You know exactly what I’m talking about!
Join in on the monstera craze and learn how to care for these tropical beauties.
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Known as leaf fenestration, monstera leaves have natural holes and slits in their leaves. Meet the Monstera Plant
Native to the rainforests of Central America, monstera plants come from the Araceae family. They’re known for their dramatic leaves with slits in them. Leathery and glossy, they make a statement in whatever room they’re in.
Their signature slits or holes are known as fenestrations. Outdoors, the slits allow rain and sunlight to go through and reach the roots and leaves below. Due to its holes, the monstera has also earned its alternative name of a Swiss cheese plant.
Out in the wild, you might see the monstera plant flowering. Tan or cream in colour, they’re popular with the bees and butterflies and turn into a fruit with rich and delicious taste. However, monstera houseplants won’t flower or fruit!
Monstera can grow fast, up to 1-2 ft a year. They can get 2-3 ft wide and up to 3 ft tall. Natural climbers, they sprout many aerial roots in addition to their leaves.
A small aerial root growing on a monstera. Types of Monstera Plants
With over 48 species of monstera plants, there’s an incredible variety of monstera types out there. In fact, many are often mislabelled because they change so much in appearance as they grow. Here are some popular varieties that you
Monstera deliciosa is the most popularized type of monstera. - Monstera deliciosa. The most popular type out there and the one you’re most likely to find at your local garden centre. They have the classic large, glossy green leaves with slits in them.
- Monstera borsigniana. A variation of deliciosa. At first, it’s hard to tell the difference between the two types when young. However, borsigniana are smaller and grow faster. The slits tend to be in rows rather than at random like the deliciosa.
- Monstera variegata. These monsteras are very popular and can be difficult to find and therefore more expensive. They’re known for a distinct colour variation of white and cream that almost looks painted on.
- Monstera adansonii. Smaller than most of the others, the adansonii appears more vine-like. The holes stills take up about 50% of the leaf, with some appearing round and others more narrow.
- Monstera dubia. Also known as the shingle plant, the dubia has smaller leaves with light and dark green veining. This is also a rarer variety; their leaves appear almost variegated.
Monstera adansonii are a smaller type of monstera that vines. Monstera Plant Care
Monsteras aren’t too finicky, but they can be a little tempermental for beginner houseplant growers. Every plant has its ideal lifestyle, so here are some tips on proper monstera plant care.
Location
Swiss cheese plants add a dramatic flair wherever you place them, be it your living room or office. When placing it, keep in mind that they don’t like cold drafts and heaters. Their optimal temperature is 60-80°F (15-27°C). They don’t like to go below 55°F (12.8°C).
In the wild, they like to climb upwards. To encourage this growth, give them a moss pole. Otherwise, they will grow outwards and take up quite a bit of room.
Most types of monstera need a climbing support of some kind, like a moss pole. Light
Monster plants will happily sit in a not-so-sunny corner. They’re fairly tolerant of low light which makes them great for the areas of your home that need a little brightening up with some greenery.
If you really want your monstera to thrive, place it in bright, indirect light. Be careful not to place it in direct sunlight as this can burn the leaves.
Water
Monster plants should be watered when the top 2-3 inches of the soil are dry. Use your finger and stick it in the soil to test for dryness. When it’s time to water, water thoroughly until you see water draining through the bottom holes. Toss out any excess water from the saucer.
You want your monstera to dry out completely between waterings. In the summer, you will need to water fairly regularly and only occasionally during the cool season.
Coming from rainforests, monstera plants like a fair amount of humidity. You can mist your plant once a week in the morning for extra humidity. You can make a humidity tray to help.
Monstera plants thrive with humidity. Soil
Use well-draining soil designed with houseplants in mind. You should keep the soil somewhat moist, but it should be in a pot with drainage holes to avoid any wet feet (which can lead to root rot).
Fill your soil in a deep pot to accommodate the roots. The pot should be a few inches wider and deeper than the pot it came in.
Fertilizer
During the growth season, from spring to summer, fertilize your Swiss cheese plant once a month or every other week. Use a water-soluble fertilizer and always apply it to wet soil.
Stop fertilizing in the fall and winter. Common Issues
Yellow leaves are a sign of improper watering. Only water your Swiss cheese plant when the top is dry, and water thoroughly in one go. Yellowing leaves may also indicate it’s not getting enough light.
Leaves with brown edges mean the plant needs more humidity. If left unresolved, they will also turn yellow before falling off.
Limp leaves mean the plant is likely not getting enough water. Give it a good soaking in the bathtub and let all the excess water drain out.
The aerial roots can also get unruly. While you can trim them, it’s best to try and tuck them back down into the pot.
Because of their large leaves, they can get dusty. To remove dust, wipe them down with a damp sponge or paper towel.
If the leaves on your monster aren’t splitting, it likely means it’s not getting enough light. Try moving it to another location and also pay attention to your watering schedule.
Propagating Your Monstera Plant
The easiest way to propagate monstera plants is by taking stem cuttings and placing them in water. Here’s how to propagate them:
- Take your cutting using sanitized pruners. The cutting could be cut below the node (where a leaf has or will emerge), have an aerial root, and at least two leaves.
- Place your cutting in a vase or glass of water.
- Change the water every 2-3 days. After a couple of months, the cutting should have roots long enough to plant.
- Plant your monstera in new potting soil. Add in a moss pole for support and future climbing.
You can also propagate by air layering, but this method is more difficult for beginners.
Once the roots are about 4-6 inches long, you can plant your monstera propagations in soil. Frequently Asked Questions About Monstera Plants
Are monstera plants toxic?Monstera plants are mildly toxic for humans and pets. If consumed, it can cause irritation of the mouth and stomach.
Are monstera plants easy to care for?As far as houseplants go, the monstera is fairly hardy. If you give them the right light and water, they’ll be happy as a clam. Most people struggle with monsters by not giving them any growing support, a lack of humidity, and improper watering.
How do I know if my monstera plant is happy?A monstera that is happy and thriving will have lots of new growth and split leaves. Unhappy monsteras will have yellow leaves, brown tips, no split leaves, slow growth, and might sprawl to try and reach sunlight.
Do you have any more questions about monstera plants? Leave them in the comments below, and I’ll do my best to answer them!
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A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Winter Houseplant Care: How Nurturing Plants Takes Care of YOU – Garden Therapy
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The houseplant surge continues to climb, and I couldn’t be happier to see it. Houseplants are a wonderful way for people to get a little bit of gardening therapy no matter where they live and what time of year it is. They’re an incredible tool to foster your well-being, so let’s keep your houseplants alive this winter, shall we? Read on for all my winter houseplant care hacks you need to know.
I don’t know about you, but I’m really starting to feel the toll of the shorter days and the colder weather. Because of my back issues, I’ve been feeling it pretty severely this year. I haven’t been out walking outside every day, and I’m missing my daily dose of nature.
Instead, I’ve been focusing on my houseplants. I went through and changed up all their soil and bought a bunch of new plants to replace the ones that weren’t growing. Any excuse to go to the garden centre, right??
I know many people love getting specialized plants and ones that require a lot of care. Right now, I want some easier plants that won’t require too much attention from me. And ones that can handle the lack of watering and sunlight that comes from the winter months.
Luckily, my houseplants are willing to provide me plenty of company in the house, all while being beautiful décor.
Let’s talk a little bit about how nurturing houseplants can actually help you and provide you with plenty of winter houseplant care tips so you can enjoy their company all winter long…and then some!
This post will cover…
The Emotional Benefits of Houseplants
I’m a firm believer that everyone should have at least one indoor plant in their home. Having a little piece of greenery around connects us to nature. And nature is a powerful tool for maintaining our overall well-being.
In the winter, finding the green connection we need can be more challenging, which can lead to nature deficit disorder. I find a home without greenery a little lifeless, and I think people notice the difference immediately once they add a plant.
The design of my new house includes plants in every corner. And not just plants but little plant projects. You might see the herbs I’m drying or the orange slice garland I still have up from Christmas. Over the holidays, I had Chinese chestnuts that I collected from my tree on display.
You’ll find artwork on the walls featuring flowers, plants, and nature. Being surrounded by this kind of greenery and interacting with plants can make us feel more comfortable and soothed. It lowers your stress levels, which, in turn, actually helps your physical and mental health.
Plants and greenery are also proven to help with anxiety, depression, and other mental health conditions. Just having houseplants around you in the winter can act as horticultural therapy.
So, when we feel the seasonal depression creeping in, houseplants can be a useful tool to help you foster some emotional resilience during the winter.
Choose Your Plants
When it comes to my indoor plants, I’m going for simple. I have a dog, a cat, a garden, a house, and a kid to take care of, and I’ve already got enough tasks on my plate to deal with some finicky plants.
But I know how much these plants give us a sense of calm, so for me, the best thing to hold onto that calm is to ensure the plants are simple and easy to care for.
There are many people out there who like that sort of commitment. People who may not have things that require a lot of nurturing will enjoy their routine and connection to some very special plants. Helping take care of them can help us take care of ourselves.
Here are a few easy-to-care-for houseplants that you can grow during the winter:
This jade has traveled with me from home to home. Plants that do well in low light translate as plants that tolerate neglect. They’re very high reward, as they keep growing and look amazing without you having to do much besides placing it in the right spot and water it.
My personal favourites? I currently love my two monsteras because they’re so big and beefy. They make a very large impact in any room they’re in (just remember that they like it humid!).
I also love anything with interesting colour. Many pothos and philodendrons come with nice variegation and are quite easy to care for. Some plants also have dark leaves or even fuzzy ones, like the African violet.
Anything that trails also is fun to include. I put them high on cabinets or along a mantle and let them trail down.
This lime green pothos adds so much colour, while also trailing down. Get Some Gorgeous Pots
While you’re at it, why not get some really gorgeous pots for your houseplants? I treat my houseplants as décor as well as friends, and dressing them up is a fun way to incorporate your style into your home.
Most recently, I got these beautiful concrete pots with lavender sprigs on them. They’re adding to my already plentiful collection of pots, but a few more won’t hurt.
Potting up your houseplants is a small project, but it’s an easy way to get some garden therapy, even in the winter.
Large pots are also welcome indoors. Need to Know Winter Houseplant Care
Your routine should switch up a bit for the winter. Don’t worry; your plants will actually require less TLC in the winter!
Sunlight Needs for Houseplants in Winter
The days are much shorter in winter than they are in summer. Plants that are already struggling to get enough sunlight inside the house will have a really hard time in the winter. I mean, 4 PM feels like midnight here in Vancouver!
Your houseplants may need to be moved somewhere where they can get more light. Ideally, you’ll want a south or west-facing window since they get the most light throughout the day.
That being said, you want to keep your plants away from frosty windows, as the cold temperatures can affect your plants. So, be mindful of your window placement depending on where you live.
You may also need to add some supplemental light. You can set up some grow lights and put them on a timer so they give your plants plenty of light. Just keep in mind that one hour of grow light time isn’t as good as one hour of sunlight, so plants will need longer under the grow light to get their fill.
Finally, dust can affect your plant’s ability to absorb sunlight. While it won’t make a huge difference, it’s still a good idea to wipe down the leaves and clean them off occasionally.
If you’re lucky, you’ll have wide windowsills to place pots while keeping the leaves off the glass. Watering and Humidity in Winter
In the winter, our houseplants enter a period of dormancy—much like the plants outside. While they may not be losing their leaves like the trees, they are slowing down their growth this time of year. This means they require fewer resources than they normally do, water included.
Watering the plants will stimulate them to need more. When we alter the watering routine and water the plants less, it slows down the plants, and in turn, it helps to slow us down, too.
Water less often in the winter. Humidity is something you want to keep an eye on in the winter. Indoor furnaces pump out really dry air, and it affects us all. Our skin dries up, and we need to hydrate more. Plants also dry out.
Here are a few ways you can increase the humidity in your home:
- Add a humidifier near your plants. Already have one running? Consider moving your plants closer to it.
- Add a humidity tray. These are a low-cost and simple way to add extra water to your plant but also keep the roots from sitting in water.
- Move your plants to an area of the house with more natural humidity. Bathrooms and kitchens have more moisture and can be a great place for plants if they have enough light.
- Keep your plants away from drafts and heat sources.
- Spritz your plants more regularly with a plant mister.
I have always found that my terrariums do well this time of year, as they get that trapped humidity while other plants look a little dry. Some people even mimic these conditions by grouping their plans in a glass cabinet to hold onto the humidity inside.
Soil and Fertilizing
As I mentioned above, houseplants in winter are in a state of dormancy, so we don’t have to worry much about their soil or fertilizing. I wait to refresh my soil and do any repotting in the spring. If you notice the soil is getting dry and crusty, you can revive it in the spring. Your plant should be fine until then!
Once spring begins, the temperature and amount of sunlight naturally begin to rise. Your plant will notice and slowly begin to push out more growth again. Follow its lead and start fertilizing when it does.
Wait until the spring to refresh soil and start fertilizing. Do you have any more questions about winter houseplant care? Let me know in the comments below, and I’ll get back to you as soon as I’m able. Happy growing!
More Tips for Taking Care of Your Houseplants
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose
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Ask the Expert: House Plant Journal’s Darryl Cheng on 6 Common Indoor Plant Pests – Gardenista
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When I spotted a scale insect on a leaf of my Thai lime tree recently, I sighed. It’s only December; sometimes they show up only in March. We must coexist indoors for another five months. I had been led to peer closely at the tree’s leaves by a tell-tale spattering of sticky honeydew beneath one branch. Above it, two branches up, I found the culprit, the pale brown dome of a mature scale insect. Wondering what other indoor plant pests are vexing the houseplant community, and how they deal with them, I consulted Darryl Cheng, Toronto-based creator of The House Plant Journal and the author of two popular books on indoor plant parenting. Darryl’s meticulous approach to growing plants is at once accessible and realistic. His engineer’s perspective to plant care includes the encouraging maxim that having a green thumb “isn’t about luck, but about being observant.”
Let’s observe. Here’s an alphabetical hit list of six of the most common indoor plant pests you may find feasting on your botanical babies: Aphids, fungus gnats, mealy bugs, scale, spider mites, and thrips—and how to deal with them.
Photography by Darryl Cheng and Vincent Mounier.
Above: Darryl Cheng’s second book is The New Plant Collector—The Next Adventure in Your Houseplant Journey (Abrams, 2024). Darryl points out that what many of us call indoor or houseplants “are in fact tropical foliage plants” (or subtropical in some cases, like my Thai limes). Understanding how to get them to thrive in our controlled indoor climates means approximating their natural growing conditions in terms of light, moisture, and temperature. Even then, over time, they will be visited by tiny creatures that feed on them and do damage: indoor plant pests. These insects and arachnids (spider mites have eight miniature legs) may travel indoors with an indoor-outdoor plant, or (very commonly) they arrive with a newly-acquired plant. They are part of the plant’s life. And while checking your leafy family members daily may seem like a chore, it is essential for their health and “also kind of therapeutic,” Darryl says. “Think of it as detailing your plant.”
His philosophy for his own plants is that nature should be allowed to take its course. Indoor plant pests are tolerable at “the lowest level possible, as long as the plant is strong.” Here is how to keep that pest level low.
Aphids
Above: Aphids feeding on lime blossoms. Photograph by Vincent Mounier. I was a little jealous to learn that Darryl rarely, if ever, encounters aphids. This is likely because they are often an outdoor-indoor issue: In my case, these soft-bodied sap suckers travel indoors invisibly with our trees when we move them indoors for winter. While aphids are not hugely destructive, they can damage new growth if they remain unobserved for a while, as in my case, above. They can be spotted “when they congregate around the growth point of the plant,” Darryl notes.
Aphid Control:
- I deal with aphids by squishing them. Gross, but effective.
- I also spray them with a mixture of water and dishwashing liquid (1/4 teaspoon in 16 fl oz/2 cups)l; the soapy coating smothers them.
Fungus Gnats
Above: A fungus gnat immobilized on a yellow sticky trap (dead leaf for scale). Photograph by Vincent Mounier. Many online plant forums are abuzz with questions about annoying, small flying insects. Like fruit flies, but different, say the worried houseplant owners. “Fungus gnats are opportunists,” says Darryl, who does not consider them damaging. They feed on fungus that grows in damp organic material, like potting soil or bark chips. Major larval infestations may damage plant roots if no fungus is available. And while I interpret their presence as a timely warning that my potting media for citrus trees is too damp—meaning that I am watering too often—Darryl makes the point that some plants, “like maidenhair ferns,” should remain moist. So the presence of fungus gnats does not necessarily mean that there is problem: “It depends on the plant,” he says, and an understanding of the different conditions that particular plants require to flourish.
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Make More African Violet Plants for Free—It’s Easy and Fun!
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African Violet Propagation: A Step-by-Step Guide to Two Methods
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Jessica Walliser
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8 Favorites: Houseplants for the Bath – Gardenista
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The best room in the house for your plants is…the bath. Houseplants perform well with natural light and shower mist; as an added bonus, they also purify the air and bring a touch of green indoors.
Staghorn Fern
Above: Staghorn ferns like moist climates and generally require a lot of maneuvering to keep them properly watered. Instead of fussing over yours, give it a permanent home in a shower. Photograph by Katie Newburn for Gardenista. Air Plant
Above: Tillandsias need only the occasional water bath to stay alive. Keeping them next to a bathroom sink makes giving them a quick dip easy to remember and might discourage the accumulation of too much else. Photograph by Katie Newburn for Gardenista. Waffle Plant
Above: A Waffle Plant (Hemigraphis alternata ‘Exotica’) is a creeper with crinkly, puckered leaves. Keep it out of direct sunlight. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista. Ant Plant
Above: Photograph by Alexa Hotz. With its moisture and steam, a bathroom reminds the Dischidia pectinoides of its home in the rain forest. An Ant Plant is so lavatory-loving that it is content to bloom there for years and years, spicing up your loo with tiny red buds. Every time you take a shower, don’t forget you’re also feeding your Dischidia pectinoides its lunch.
Angel Vine
Above: Angel Vine (Muehlenbeckia) hails from a humid climate and to keep it from drying out in indoor air, place near an open window or doorway that opens onto fresh air. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista. Orchid
Above: Keep your Phalaenopsis Orchid in its plastic nursery pot and set that pot into a decorative planter (as above). This makes it easy to water the orchid—just set the plastic pot in the sink when it’s time—and gives you the option to display it in an urn or vase that has no drainage holes. Photograph by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista. Lace Fern
Above: To create a tropical oasis in this Japanese-style bath, designer Simon Astridge added potted ferns and other moisture-loving plants. Pictured is the lace fern. See Bathroom of the Week: A Japanese-Style Bath in London, Greenery Included for other plants in this bathroom. Photograph by Nicholas Worley. Chinese Money Plant
Above: Pilea peperomioides thrives with minimal care. The succulent likes bright indirect sunlight and a little bit of humidity. Let soil dry between waterings. Photograph by French and Tye, courtesy of Bradley Van Der Straeten, from Steal This Look: A Sunshine Bath in a London Townhouse. For more houseplant help, see:
N.B.: This post has been updated with new photos and links; it was first published August 2014.
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Winter Is Coming: How to Care for Houseplants When They Go Dormant – Gardenista
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Just like us, houseplants want to hunker down for the colder and shorter days ahead. While your foliage friends might not appreciate a warm cup of cocoa or cozy scarfs, they do appreciate a little pampering and a lot of rest during the fall and winter months, when temperatures dip, light conditions dwindle, and moisture diminishes. Most plants will naturally slow down or stop growing at this point to conserve and store energy for growing season come spring. Basically, most houseplants go winter dormant.
If you’re an indoor plant parent, keep reading to learn some helpful tips to keep your potted friends healthy and happy during this time of rest.
1. Alter your watering schedule.
Above: Plants need to drink less when they go dormant. Photograph by Mimi Giboin, from Best Houseplants: 9 Indoor Plants for Low Light. While you might think you should maintain your watering schedule, most houseplants actually prefer less water during this slow period. Always check the level of moisture in your plant’s soil before watering by pushing your finger into the soil about 2 inches, and if it’s dry then you can give it a thorough drink. Be aware that excess water leads to soggy soil which can lead to root rot. Of course each type of plant has different moisture needs, so it pays to do your homework.
2. Dust those leaves.
Above: Photograph by Michael J. Spear via Urban Outfitters, from Still Life with Houseplants: Macramé Artist Emily Katz in Portland, Oregon. Plants take in oxygen through their tiny pores, so it’s smart to dust your houseplants on a regular basis to make sure that these breathing leaves remain open and not clogged. Bonus: clean leaves also are better at absorbing light during these dim times. How to do this? Wipe your plant’s leaves with a damp, clean cloth, and while you’re at it, remove any yellowing or dead leaves.
3. Make sure they stay warm.
Above: Fiddle leaf figs like the light but not the draft. Photograph by Kelly Marshall, from Expert Advice: How to Throw a Dinner Party with Minimal Effort, from an SF Creative Director. Okay, I said no warm scarves for your plants, but that doesn’t mean you can’t turn up the heat in the house. Most indoor plants like temps to hover above 50 degrees F. If they get too cold, some houseplants will actually start shedding their leaves. If they’re currently living next to a drafty window, you may want to consider moving them to a toastier spot.
4. Turn up the humidity.
Above: African violets need humidity in order to thrive. Photograph by Mimi Giboin, from African Violets: Rethinking ‘America’s Favorite House Plant’ for Modern Times. With added dry heat, however, comes a lack of humidity. To thrive, plants like 50-60% humidity. To ensure they stay foliage-fit, consider placing your plants on trays filled with pebbles and water to increase the moisture in the air. Humidifiers also do the job. Another idea is to huddle your plants together to create a symbiotic micro climate, meaning plants close together will transpire by releasing water from their leaves and then share it with neighboring plants.
5. Change the light exposure.
Above: A plant leaning into the light. Photograph by Emily Johnston, from The Accidental Jungle: Shabd Simon-Alexander’s Houseplants in a New York Apartment. [ad_2]
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How to Care for Poinsettias + Its Fascinating History
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If there was one plant that embodied the spirit of Christmas, poinsettias would be at the top of the list! These cheerful red blooms may be all over, but did you know how they became associated with Christmas? Here’s the fascinating history behind the plant, plus how to care for poinsettias.
Poinsettias are everywhere we look throughout the holidays. They are for sale in pretty much any store you walk into, are a standby for school fundraisers, and can be seen in many people’s houses over the season. December 12th is even National Poinsettia Day in the United States!
Native to Mexico, the poinsettia has a deep history in the Aztec culture before it became the Christmas icon it’s known as today. Its history as a tropical plant also means many of us struggle to keep poinsettias happy and healthy during and beyond the holiday season.
That’s where I come in! I’m going to share some tips on how to care for your poinsettia, style it, and keep it alive after the holidays.
In this post, we will cover…
Poinsettias are abundant and inexpensive during the Christmas season. All About Poinsettias
Poinsettias have become such a universal symbol for Christmas and winter that many people don’t realize that they are actually tropical plants that grow as large shrubs in the wild. By learning how to care for poinsettias and paying attention to detail, you can create a stylish poinsettia display that showcases these fiery crimson beauties.
Botany
It can be hard to picture poinsettias growing in the wild since we are so used to seeing them as houseplants. The poinsettia plant, Euphorbia pulcherrima, is native to western Mexico, where it grows into a large shrub or small tree.
The large red “petals” are actually bracts, and the small yellow centers are the flowers. Colourful bracts and small flowers are also seen on other common flowering shrubs and trees like dogwoods and hydrangeas.
Poinsettia “flowers” are actually bracts. History and Association with Christmas
The plant was originally known to the Aztec people as cuetlaxochitl. They used the plant as medicine to reduce fever. They also commonly used it for making a red dye that coloured cosmetics and textiles.
In the wild, poinsettia naturally begins to bloom in December as a result of longer nights. Missionaries took notice of the plant in the sixteenth century and its star-shaped bracts that bring to mind the Star of Bethlehem.
The timing and shape of the poinsettia are believed to be where the original connection to the holiday came from. And you can’t deny that the red and green colours fit in perfectly!
There is a Mexican Christmas tale about the origin of the poinsettia that tells the story of a young peasant girl named Pepita who could not afford a proper offering for her Christmas prayer, so she placed a bundle of weeds on the church altar instead.
The weeds began to bloom red and turned into beautiful, large, star-shaped flowers. In Mexico, the plant became known as Flor de Nochebuena (Christmas Eve flower).
In the nineteenth century, Joel Roberts Poinsett, the United States’ first ambassador to Mexico and an avid gardener, fell in love with growing poinsettias and sent some back to his home in South Carolina, introducing them to the U.S. for the first time. The plant got its common name from Poinsett.
Joel Roberts Poinsett also has a legacy of being a slave owner and played a role in the displacement of Native Americans, leading some to reject the common name of poinsettia in favour of the original name cuetlaxochitl.
A wild poinsettia shrub. Selecting a Pointsettia Plant
When it comes to growing poinsettias, most people purchase the plant rather than growing it from seed or propagation. They’re everywhere during the holidays and are rather affordable, too.
Begin by purchasing a plant that looks healthy. Choose one that is full and does not have discoloured leaves or other signs of disease.
I know that you can buy poinsettias in all kinds of colours now, such as blue, rainbow, and even glitter-covered ones, but I am just not a fan. If it is not some shade or combination of red and white, it is definitely dyed.
Poinsettias are beautiful when left natural, and I think that dyed flowers just look artificial and tacky, plus I don’t especially want to bring any harsh dyes into my home. The fewer chemicals, the better!
Leave the fake colours and pick a gorgeous natural poinsettia instead. You can find them in fiery red, white, cream, blush, or with candy-cane stripes!
Avoid unnaturally coloured and dyed poinsettias. How to Care for Poinsettias
Light Requirements
Place poinsettias in a bright room that gets lots of natural light, but keep the plant out of direct sunlight. Remember, it’s a tropical plant that is used to getting plenty of sunlight.
Place it somewhere away from drafty windows or heat sources since dramatic changes in temperature can harm the plant.
Watering Requirements
Water only when the soil feels dry to the touch. Water thoroughly when you do. I water my poinsettia roughly once a week.
Temperature and Humidity
Poinsettias are tropical plants, and can be more finicky than most. So while it needs plenty of indoor lighting, to shouldn’t be by a drafty window. You want to keep it somewhere where the temperature is stable, ideally between 18°C to 21°C (65°F to 70°F).
If you live in a dry climate, consider misting your poinsettia somewhat regularly. You can also use a DIY humidity tray.
Avoid placing poinsettias by heat registers, as this can dry them out. Styling Poinsettias
Taking a little bit of time to re-pot your poinsettia once you get it home makes a huge difference. Plant it in a decorative ceramic pot, something plain, or even a salad bowl—anything other than leaving it in that shiny foil wrapping it comes in will make it look SO much more sophisticated.
Take your poinsettia out of the foil wrap and into a salad bowl for easy decor. How to Keep Your Poinsettia Alive
You can get reblooms every year IF you properly care for your poinsettia. The idea is to mimic greenhouse conditions. After Christmas, continue to water and care for your poinsettia as mentioned above.
Like any plant, it will shed its flowers when it’s done blooming. The bracts will start to fade and fall off. Give your poinsettia a good trim after it finishes shedding.
After the bracts have fallen, it’s also time to start fertilizing. I apply my houseplant fertilizer roughly once a month from spring through summer. The poinsettia can become leggy with all these nutrients and not enough light, so feel free to trim the stems back to six inches.
This may also be a good time to repot the plant, as its soil becomes quite compact in its original nursery containers.
How to Encourage New Poinsettia Blooms
Beginning October 1st, your plant needs to be in total and complete darkness from 5 PM to 8 AM (or 14 hours a night). Any kind of exposure to light, from streetlamps to a tiny night light, can disrupt the process. A closet is a good place to store it, along with a bowl of water for humidity. During the day, return it to a bright, indirect spot and continue with regular watering.
Do this until the last week of November (8 weeks). By then, you should begin to see the red buds coming in. You can stop placing the plant in total darkness and leave it in its usual spot. Your poinsettia doesn’t need any fertilizer during its bloom time.
Your poinsettia should produce the same coloured bracts as the previous year. Poinsettia Toxicity and Safety
A lot of people avoid having poinsettias in the house because of the fear that they are dangerous to cats and dogs, but the plants are not as poisonous to pets as is commonly thought. They can only cause serious harm if ingested in huge amounts (your furry friend would have to eat hundreds of plants to be in real danger, according to studies).
They can cause some unpleasant tummy aches, though, so it’s best to keep them out of reach of pets anyway. For more on plants that can be harmful to dogs and cats, take a look at this post.
The milky sap can cause skin irritation to some people. If concerned, wear gloves when pruning your poinsettia.
I’m not worried about my cat, Magic, munching on poinsettia. FAQ on Poinsettia Care
How often should I water poinsettias?Water your poinsettias once they are dry to the touch or you notice wilting. Let them dry out completely between waterings. It’s important to have drainage for your poinsettia so it’s not sitting in water.
Do poinsettias like sun or shade?A tropical plant from Central America, poinsettias like it hot. Give them as much bright, indirect sunlight as possible indoors. You want to make sure that they do not touch any window panes with their leaves, as it can easily damage them, as can drafty windows.
How long can I keep my poinsettia alive?Your poinsettia is designed to make it through the holiday season. It can stay red for a couple of months with the right care, but it will eventually drop its red leaves and turn green again. If you plan on keeping your poinsettia, you can cut back the plant to 6 inches and continue with the care.
They’re difficult to get to turn red again, but you can follow the care outlined above and aim for Christmas red again!
What is the “short-day” / darkness requirement for poinsettias?To get a poinsettia to rebloom (change its bracts’ colour), it needs to experience cooling temperatures and shorter daylight. It requires 12-15 hours of total darkness over 6-8 weeks during the fall season. This includes artificial light. If this doesn’t occur naturally in its environment, you can move the poinsettia to a dark room, like a closet, or place a large cardboard box over it for 12-15 hours.
More Winter Flowers to Grow
Rose Morris is a professional writer and Editor with an MA in English Literature. She is a member of Room Magazine’s editorial board, has written for The Malahat Review, Western Living Magazine, Concrete Garden, and elsewhere.
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Rose Morris
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The Most Beautiful Flowering Houseplants – Garden Therapy
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It’s sad to say goodbye to the colourful, cheery blooms of the garden when the seasons change. Flowers just make everything feel lighter and happier. That’s why I make an effort to keep flowering houseplants around, especially during the colder months when the garden has been put to bed and I need my flower fix. Design an indoor garden space with these stunning flowering houseplants, and you will hardly miss the summer garden at all.
Houseplants are a wonderful way for anyone to get a little garden therapy, no matter what the circumstances. Maybe you live in a small apartment with no outdoor space. Maybe it’s the dead of winter and you miss seeing green, living things. Maybe your home is dark and needs brightening up (if that’s the case, check out the best houseplants for low light here).
Houseplants are also a great option for those who are brand new to gardening or don’t think they have a green thumb (EVERYBODY has a green thumb, I promise). Once you see your first houseplant grow and bloom because of the care you give it, you’ll go from identifying as a black-thumb gardener to a proud plant mama in no time!
The Best Flowering Houseplants
Here are my favourite indoor bloomers and some basic care instructions for each one. I hope you create a magical, flower-filled haven in your home with these beauties.
Orchid (Orchidaceae)
Orchids are among the most stunning flowers available. Orchids like to dry out between watering and have plenty of air circulation at their roots. They like a humid environment, so make a simple humidity tray to keep them happy.
Prolong the blooms by keeping the orchid in a warm spot out of direct sunlight. When the blooms have faded, clip off the flower stem and be sure not to overwater. It will make an attractive green houseplant until the next flowers appear.
Orchids can be tricky to get to rebloom, but watering is key. African Violet (Saintpaulia)
Named for their flowers, which are similar in shape and colour to violets, these low-growing plants produce beautiful frilly blossoms which come in various shades of purple, pink, and white.
African Violets like lots of indirect sunlight, so place them in a bright window. Water them from the bottom with lukewarm or room-temperature water and remove wilted flowers to promote new blooms.
Water from the bottom to avoid getting the fuzzy leaves wet. Cyclamen
Usually pink, purple, or red, these sweet little flowers have delicate upward-facing petals and pretty variegated leaves. Cyclamen need to be watered regularly (every day or so), but they are also sensitive to overwatering, so check the soil’s moisture level before you water. Cyclamen also like good air circulation, so be sure to remove any dropped blooms and leaves from the top of the soil.
Note: Cyclamen are poisonous to pets. Bromeliads (Bromeliaceae) and Air Plants (Tillandsia)
Bromeliads and air plants are often brought home when they are flowering, as they are the most striking when the vibrantly-hued flower is in its full glory. That being said, a flowering bromeliad or air plant is at the end of its life cycle.
These epiphytic plants propagate by producing pups at the base of the plant after flowering. The mother plant will then die back and allow the pups to grow, flourish, and bloom.
Bromeliads will only bloom once. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum)
Peace lilies are among the easiest flowering houseplants to grow, and they will produce blooms all year long. The bloom consists of a spadix (this is the long, skinny piece that sticks up) surrounded by a white or colored spathe (the large spade-shaped “petal”). The little bumps on the spadix are technically the flowers! This plant likes shade best and should be watered only when soil is dry, about once a week.
Note: Peace lilies are poisonous to pets. Christmas, Thanksgiving, and Easter Cacti
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera x Buckleyi), Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), and Easter cactus (Hatiora gaertneri) are succulents that bloom near the holiday that they are named for. These plants produce gorgeous star-shaped flowers that are red, pink, purple, white, orange, or yellow. For in-depth care instructions, see this post.
These can be prolific bloomers if grown right. Flowering Maple (Abutilon)
Flowering maples, so called because their leaves have a shape similar to maple leaves (they are actually a type of mallow), can grow anywhere from 1.5 to 10 feet tall. You can control their size by pruning regularly and selecting an appropriate indoor flowerpot. The bigger the planter, the bigger the flowering maple will get. Place in a sunny area and water only when the soil feels dry.
Hibiscus
There are hundreds of hibiscus varieties, but the most common one grown as a houseplant is the Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). This is the tropical variety that you see plastered all over Hawaiian shirts.
To get them to flower, you want them in a bright location. They should get lots of water in the spring and summer. Indoor hibiscus can suffer from bud drop if they don’t get enough water or humidity. Mist them regularly or set up a humidity tray to help keep things humid.
Have fun creating your indoor flower garden, and remember that garden therapy can happen anywhere, from tiny apartments to big outdoor spaces.
Tips for Taking Care of Your Flowering Houseplants
A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
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Stephanie Rose
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