ReportWire

Tag: Hardscaping 101

  • Ask the Expert: Tom Eaglestone on How to Reuse Preexisting Materials in Your Garden – Gardenista

    We’ve been noticing lately that a talent for stonework is more than an extra feather in the cap for garden designers. Wilder planting can stand or fall on the hard landscaping; crisp edges are one way of signifying that “here is a garden.”

    Ecological garden designer Tom Eaglestone, based in Bath, on the edge of the Cotswolds, is as stone-obsessed as he is plant-obsessed. The native stone there is glorious, but he uses other materials as well. It just depends on what he finds on site. “I’ve always tried to see what’s already in the garden and what we can find; that makes a lot of sense for me,” he explains. Crazy patchwork paving is one way of dealing with random shapes of stone: “It’s a funny thing—people think it looks complicated, or very hard, but when you work with what you’ve got, it’s so satisfying when exactly the right piece of stone fits into the jigsaw.”

    Below, we ask him our burning questions about how to be more sustainable in our approach to hardscaping.

    Photography courtesy of Eaglestone Gardens.

    How do you match your materials to your setting?

    Above: A Costswold home, through and through, from the ground up.

    Eaglestone is fortunate to live and work in southwest England, known for its honey-colored limestone. The buildings seem to rise out of the rock, and it follows that pathways, edgings, and walls would be made from the same materials. When gardeners import Cotswold stone to other parts of the country, it can look completely wrong. Stone should to come from a local quarry. Materials found on site, hidden under hedges, in flower beds, lying around here and there, lead the way.

    Above:  A water spout made from a boulder that was helped along. Tom loves to use stone that “just feels right.”

    “There is something deeply satisfying about taking characterful, trodden, marked, and weather-beaten stone—stone that must have been around a very long time—and repurposing into something new and cohesive and aesthetically pleasing,” says Tom. “It is very absorbing, tactile work.”

    Source link

  • How to Lower Your Footprint When Designing an Outdoor Space

    As more garden and landscape designers aspire to create sustainable gardens, there’s one significant but often ignored aspect of sustainability they should pay attention to: hardscape materials. For most landscapes, the materials for the decks, patios, paths, and stairs will make up the vast majority of the project’s carbon footprint. 

    When people think of carbon footprint they often think of actions like driving a combustion engine car and flying on airplanes, but materials also possess an embodied (or upfront) carbon footprint. The “embodied” carbon is not, in fact, embodied in the material. Rather, it is an estimate of the emissions that come from making the material and shipping it. Unfortunately, some of the landscape industry’s favorite materials, including concrete and tropical hardwoods like ipe, have a high embodied carbon. (Taking in all stages of production, concrete is estimated to be responsible for 4 to 8 percent of the world’s CO2.)

    I don’t think clients are aware of the carbon footprint that concrete has,” says Sara Brunelle, co-founder of the landscape design firm Lu — La Studio, based in Cambridge, MA. “People are interested in pollinators and ecological properties, but they’re not really thinking about the material implications of their project.” However, homeowners and designers alike should consider the climate impacts of the materials they choose for their gardens.

    We spoke to experts who are designing with low-carbon hardscape materials to ask them for their best advice when it comes to low-carbon hardscapes. Here’s what they said.

    Less is more.

    More plants, less hardscaping in this backyard designed by Terremoto. Photograph by Caitlin Atkinson, from The Future of Gardening: A Plan From Terremoto.
    Above: More plants, less hardscaping in this backyard designed by Terremoto. Photograph by Caitlin Atkinson, from The Future of Gardening: A Plan From Terremoto.

    Want to lower the carbon footprint of your landscape? Use less hardscape material. It’ll also be better for the environment overall. “Hardscape mostly prevents water from returning to the earth—and water returning to the earth is the first thing that has to happen in order to support or create life,” says David Godshall, co-founder of Terremotto, a landscape architecture studio with offices in northern and southern California. “So, the more hardscape a garden has, the more lifeless it is.” Of course, gardens need paths, patios and the like, but Godshall encourages garden designers to ask themselves what is the minimum amount of hardscape needed to make a space useful and enjoyable to everyone, including people who are differently abled.

    Source link

  • Hardscaping 101: Ground Covers to Plant Between Pavers – Gardenista

    Hardscaping 101: Ground Covers to Plant Between Pavers – Gardenista

    Too often pathway gaps are neglected and become a home for weeds. But where some may see awkward spaces between stepping stones, I see potential. Plants between pavers can soften hard lines, adding a lush, living element to a design.

    It’s relatively simple to fill the cracks between pavers with creeping plants that will stay low, won’t mind being squashed a bit, and may even be fragrant. Ground cover can triumph over weeds, too. Read on for everything you need to know:

    How do you choose a ground cover to grow between pavers?

    Above: White blooming Isotoma grows in a pathway, framing pavers with texture and color in a California garden designed by Elizabeth Everdell. Photograph courtesy of Everdell Garden Design.

    As a landscaper, I routinely feel like a boss on the plant employee search, hunting for highly qualified plant candidates for the position of ground cover. Listed below is my required criteria:

    Height: A plant should be low growing, raging in height from basically flat to 2 inches tall. Anything taller could be trip pedestrians and make the pavers look as if they are sinking, even drowning. Rule of thumb: the larger the scale of the pavers, the taller the filler plants can be.

    Foliage: The ground cover should be vigorous (but not invasive) and dense like a carpet to smother competing weeds and cooperatively traverse the spaces for continuity.

    Photograph by Matthew Williams for Gardenista. Cotula leptinella ‘Platt’s Black’ (dollhouse fern) grows densely and has a shallow root system, which makes it ideally suited to creeping between stones to fill cracks. See more of this garden in our Gardenista book.
    Above: Photograph by Matthew Williams for Gardenista. Cotula leptinella ‘Platt’s Black’ (dollhouse fern) grows densely and has a shallow root system, which makes it ideally suited to creeping between stones to fill cracks. See more of this garden in our Gardenista book.

    Hardiness: A plant that grows between pavers should be tough and durable to withstand occasional trampling by foot or paw.

    No-Fuss: Ground cover plants for pavers must require as little maintenance as possible. A total given.

    Design: The ground cover needs to meet the design needs of foliage color, texture, and form. The choice also should complement the colors and textures of the pathway material rather than compete with it, and be congruent with the current landscape theme.

    What are the best plants to grow between pavers?

    The options below are by no means the only ones, just some of the popular ones, and you have different options depending on whether your path basks in sun or hides in shade.

    Different varieties of thyme such as ‘Minimus Russetings’ and ‘Purple Carpet’ soften the pavers in this Brooklyn rooftop garden. Photography by Marni Majorelle. For more, see Brooklyn Oasis: A City Roof Garden, Before & After.
    Above: Different varieties of thyme such as ‘Minimus Russetings’ and ‘Purple Carpet’ soften the pavers in this Brooklyn rooftop garden. Photography by Marni Majorelle. For more, see Brooklyn Oasis: A City Roof Garden, Before & After.

    Full Sun:

    Creeping thyme (Thymus spp): Considered one of the finest ground covers for filling in between flagstones. It meets all of the criteria of a good plant employee. This petite herb comes in many varieties, all with tiny, rounded fragrant leaves in shades of dark green, lime green, and even yellow with a white edging. Elfin or woolly thyme are especially good varieties that will grow in difficult soils, stay flat and are frighteningly easy to grow.

    Above: Between the pavers grows a carpet of creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum ‘Elfin’) at this landscape in Northern California. Photograph by Jason Liske, from California Dreaming: A Golden Landscape on the Edge of the Continent.

    Dymondia (Dymondia margaretae) is a good alternative. Its phenomenally flat, tidy appearance bears slender leaves that are green on top and gray underneath. A slight upward curl on each leaf edge provides a frosted, two-tone look and it occasionally bears small yellow daisy flowers.

    Source link

  • Wood Decks: Everything You Need to Know, Pros and Cons

    Wood Decks: Everything You Need to Know, Pros and Cons

    Would you like to add an extra 250 square feet of living space without spending tens of thousands of dollars? Read on to learn everything you need to know:

    Above: An indoor fireplace transitions into the exterior stone wall of a picturesque deck by mwworks. Photograph by Kevin Scott, courtesy of mwworks, from Outside In: A Multi-Generational Retreat on Whidbey Island Welcomes Nature Inside.

    What is the difference between a deck and a patio?

    A patio is built at ground level, on a level surface, and typically is constructed of a “permanent” material such as stone pavers, brick, or poured concrete. A deck floats above the ground, supported by footings, at a height of anywhere from a few inches to many feet and can be built on an existing slope.

    Typically, a patio is considered more of a permanent feature–and is more expensive to build. For instance, a 250-square-foot bluestone patio costs $3,797 to build (including materials) on average, more than twice as much as the $1,882 price tag to build a wood deck of the same size, according to Homewyse.

    A redwood deck in a garden designed by Talc Studio in San Francisco. Photograph by Jorden DeGaetano, courtesy of Talc Studio, from Landscape Design Visit: ‘Moving Art’ in a San Francisco Yard by Talc Studio.
    Above: A redwood deck in a garden designed by Talc Studio in San Francisco. Photograph by Jorden DeGaetano, courtesy of Talc Studio, from Landscape Design Visit: ‘Moving Art’ in a San Francisco Yard by Talc Studio.

    OK, a deck. How do I design a deck?

    Pros know: Start the design process by consulting a landscape architect or designer, who will help you come up with a design based on how you want to use a deck and the physical properties of your land (Does your yard slope? Is the ground marshy? Do you want to build around existing trees without causing them damage?). A professional also will know if you need a permit for a deck and whether local building codes require a railing.

    Attached vs. freestanding: You can build a freestanding deck on your property, but if you plan to use a deck as an extension to everyday living space, consider attaching it to the house for indoor-outdoor flow. Use string and stakes to lay out the design to make sure you like the size and shape.

    Photograph courtesy of Mason St. Peter. For more of this raised deck (including construction photos), see Outbuilding of the Week: A Bohemian Surf Shack in Topanga Canyon.
    Above: Photograph courtesy of Mason St. Peter. For more of this raised deck (including construction photos), see Outbuilding of the Week: A Bohemian Surf Shack in Topanga Canyon.

    Can I build my own deck?

    After you have a plan in hand, if you are extremely handy you may want to build your own deck. But keep in mind there is more to building a deck than sawing and nailing lumber planks. In a cold climate, you will need to dig piers below the frost line to support the deck and make sure it doesn’t heave in winter as the ground freezes and thaws. If you are not Bob Vila, you probably will be better off (and save money in the long run) by hiring a contractor or master carpenter.

    In Carmel Valley, California architects Sagan Piechota and contractors Stocker Allaire designed a multi-tiered batu wood deck. Photograph by Joe Fletcher courtesy of Sagan Piechota Architecture, from Design Trend: 15 Wooden Decks That Disappear Into the Landscape.
    Above: In Carmel Valley, California architects Sagan Piechota and contractors Stocker Allaire designed a multi-tiered batu wood deck. Photograph by Joe Fletcher courtesy of Sagan Piechota Architecture, from Design Trend: 15 Wooden Decks That Disappear Into the Landscape.

    Is wood the best material for a deck?

    Wood is our favorite choice for a deck because it’s a natural material that complements the surrounding landscape; left untreated, wood decks will fade to a soft silver color that plays a supporting role to the garden that surrounds it. Other than wood, the best choice for a deck is a composite material–made of a combination of wood and recycled plastic–which has its own pros and cons.

    Source link

  • Brick Patios: The Pros and Cons of Choosing Brick for Outdoor Flooring

    Brick Patios: The Pros and Cons of Choosing Brick for Outdoor Flooring

    We learned this young: When the third little pig chose brick, he knew what he was doing. As a building material, brick has stood the test of time. It’s hardworking, aesthetically versatile, easily maintained, eco-friendly, and affordable. Although it’s sometimes considered a formal look for a patio, that depends on the type of bricks, the color, the pattern, and the application.

    Here’s everything you need to know to design a brick patio:

    What types of bricks are good for a patio?

    Above: Bricks are ubiquitous in the Netherlands. See 10 Garden Ideas to Steal from Amsterdam’s Canal Houses.

    Most bricks are composed of clay soil combined with lime and sand. Although red bricks are the most common, bricks come in many colors, including cream, grey, tan, buff, pink, brown, and black.

    The color varies according to several factors: the relative proportion of lime, the color of the sand, and the temperature and duration of the firing. One strong attribute is that brick color doesn’t fade with age or wear.

    If you’re looking for a weathered look and don’t want to wait years to get it, you can buy tumbled bricks. Used bricks are another option–try searching under “building materials” on Craigslist. But don’t buy unless you’re assured that any residual mortar has been cleaned off. Whatever you choose, make sure they’re bricks that will work well for a patio–they’re not too porous, for example, or prone to flaking in freezing temperatures. If in doubt, check with a stonemason or stoneyard worker.

    What are some patterns for laying a brick patio?

    A brick patio featuring a double basketweave pattern. Photograph by Gillian Steiner for Gardenista, from Pretty in Pink: An Artist’s Dry Garden in LA’s Topanga Canyon.
    Above: A brick patio featuring a double basketweave pattern. Photograph by Gillian Steiner for Gardenista, from Pretty in Pink: An Artist’s Dry Garden in LA’s Topanga Canyon.

    Your choice of pattern will be largely determined by how much space you have and how much money you want to invest. Here are the most common patterns, from the least expensive and labor-intensive to the most:

    • Running bond just means bricks laid in simple rows. Concentric squares or rectangles are variations on running bond; these are appealing if you have enough space to show them off. In smaller spaces, a concentric pattern can look busy.
    • Basketweave is a classic pattern that’s slightly more labor-intensive than running bond. It comes in many variations. To make the pattern work, you’ll need bricks that are twice as long as they are wide (plus any mortar joint). That also reduces the number of bricks that will need to be cut.
    • Herringbone is a timeless look that works well for both pathways and patios. A herringbone set at 45 degrees is somewhat more expensive because the bricks on the edges all need to be cut. Herringbone set at 90 degrees involves less cutting.
    Common brick patterns, courtesy of Rubio’s Masonry and Construction. For more information or an estimate, see Rubio’s.
    Above: Common brick patterns, courtesy of Rubio’s Masonry and Construction. For more information or an estimate, see Rubio’s.

    Should a brick patio be set in sand or mortar?

    Above: A stylish pairing of pea gravel and brick. Photograph by Laure Joliet, from Garden Visit: At Home with LA Artist Kelly Lamb.

    Source link

  • Pine Tar: A Sustainable, Natural Wood Preservative and Stain

    Pine Tar: A Sustainable, Natural Wood Preservative and Stain

    Venmo, dishwashers, those Instagram filters that give tired faces a glow-up—we can all agree our world has benefited from progress. But some things don’t need to be improved upon. Case in point: pine tar.

    Pine tar has been in existence since the days of the plundering-and-pilfering Vikings, who distilled the stuff in large quantities and used it to preserve their wooden ships. If it’s potent enough to waterproof these vessels that sailed the rough waters of the North Sea, it’s surely good enough to protect your wood fence, deck, garden shed, barn, or home.

    To learn more about pine tar, we reached out to the folks at Earth & Flax and Sage Restoration, two North American companies that specialize in natural Scandinavian paints and wood finishes, as well as Emil Jespersen, cofounder of Danish-Norwegian architecture firm Jespersen Nødtvedt, who recently worked with pine tar on a project for a client.

    What is pine tar?

    Plywood painted with pine tar clads the exterior of this cottage in Sweden by architect Johannes Norlander. Photograph by Rasmus Norlander, courtesy of Johannes Norlander Arkitektur, from Architect Visit: Johannes Norlander in Sweden.
    Above: Plywood painted with pine tar clads the exterior of this cottage in Sweden by architect Johannes Norlander. Photograph by Rasmus Norlander, courtesy of Johannes Norlander Arkitektur, from Architect Visit: Johannes Norlander in Sweden.

    Pine tar is a natural marine-grade wood preservative. Traditional pine tar was made by essentially cooking down pine stumps in fire pits to yield a syrup-y, dark-colored, and resin- and turpentine-rich liquid. Today, most pine tar products are produced in kilns (using heat only).

    Post-Viking Age, pine tar is primarily used as a finish for decks, fences, facades, and roofs in Scandinavian countries, but interest in the wood preservative is growing in the U.S. “What’s old is new again. People are looking for alternatives to modern chemical finishes, and architects are looking for something new to offer clients,” says Michael Sinclair of Sage Restoration, which is based in Tamworth, Ontario. “Our sales have been increasing every year.”

    Natalie Yon Eriksson, founder of Philadelphia’s Earth & Flax, agrees. “This trend is going strong. Pine tar has been used with or in place of the traditional Japanese shou sugi ban burned or charred siding treatment,” she says. “The best aspects of pine tar are that it is sourced from nature, using a waste product from the timber industry, and is an exceptional natural wood preservative.”

    Source link

  • Hardscaping 101: Natural Swimming Pools – Gardenista

    Hardscaping 101: Natural Swimming Pools – Gardenista

    Have you ever swam in a natural swimming pool? There’s no chlorine, no chemical taste or smell, nothing to sting your eyes. Recently architect Alan Barlis, who designed one for a client in New York’s Hudson Valley, described the experience like this: “Incredibly blissful. Once you swim in one of these things you feel like you’ve been so refreshed. It’s like being in a Brita for an hour. It’s like taking the best shower of your life.”

    It sounds as if we all should be swimming in natural pools, for our health and the environment’s. So why aren’t we? For one thing, natural swimming pools cost more to install (on average 10 percent more than conventional pools, says an industry spokesman). Perception is another problem, because some swimmers equate chlorine with cleanliness. Finally, a lack of uniform guidelines and rules in the US may make the idea of installing a natural swimming pool seem, well, murky.

    On the other hand: incredibly blissful. 

    So read on for everything you need to know to decide whether a natural swimming pool is for you.

    What is a natural swimming pool?

    In Switzerland near Lake Lucerne, a natural swimming pool supported by a retaining wall on a steep slope “appears to almost float weightlessly out over the valley,” the designers say. Photograph courtesy of Biotop.
    Above: In Switzerland near Lake Lucerne, a natural swimming pool supported by a retaining wall on a steep slope “appears to almost float weightlessly out over the valley,” the designers say. Photograph courtesy of Biotop.

    Think of a natural swimming pool as a chlorine-free zone. Instead of relying on chemicals to keep the water clean, natural pools have water gardens with plants that naturally filter and clean the water.

    Industry pioneer Biotop, headquartered in Europe, has installed more than 5,000 natural swimming pools worldwide during the past three decades. Other industry players include Ellicar (formerly Ensata) in the UK, and Bio Nova and Total Habitat in the US.

    How does a natural pool work?

    A natural pool at Plane Trees Lodge in Australia has a water depth of 6 1/2 feet. Photograph courtesy of Biotop.
    Above: A natural pool at Plane Trees Lodge in Australia has a water depth of 6 1/2 feet. Photograph courtesy of Biotop.

    Source link