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Tag: guides

  • How To Protect Your Bitcoin Seed Phrase With The Kiboruto Stainless-Steel Backup

    How To Protect Your Bitcoin Seed Phrase With The Kiboruto Stainless-Steel Backup

    This guide demonstrates how to set up a fresh Samourai Wallet on Android and secure the seed phrase in a robust, stainless-steel backup called the Kiboruto, made by @Crazyk_031 and @stackbitme. You can find the Kiboruto and more at crazyk3d.com.

    Introduction

    If you have taken self custody of your bitcoin, congratulations on taking the first steps toward leading a permissionless life. Now, you should make sure your bitcoin is secure and safe from environmental hazards like fire and flood. Writing down your backup information in a notebook is a good start but at some point, you may find that this no longer feels secure enough when you take environmental hazards into account.

    Econoalchemist

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  • Bitcoin Backed Loans – 8 Platforms that Unlock your Bitcoin – Bitcoin Magazine

    Bitcoin Backed Loans – 8 Platforms that Unlock your Bitcoin – Bitcoin Magazine

    Loaning your bitcoin invites an element of risk that you may not need to incur. You should not make any financial, investment, trading or otherwise decision solely based on the information presented in this article.

    Bitcoin lending will be the future of decentralized finance (DeFi). Many DeFi projects are currently sitting on Ethereum due to its built-in support for smart contracts and network effects, but this is changing rapidly.

    Smart contract platforms are being built on Bitcoin to create a new ecosystem that offers the highest protocol security and the sound money network only an established asset like bitcoin can offer.

    Bitcoin Magazine

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  • Best Apps To Buy Bitcoin in 2023

    Best Apps To Buy Bitcoin in 2023

    Introduction

    Payment apps are the easiest and quickest way to buy or sell bitcoin and directly convert it into fiat currencies or vice versa.

    Most payment apps are very similar in use and functionality; however, some are more aligned with the Bitcoin ecosystem and focused on applying certain standards — such as Strike using the Lightning Network for fast and secure payments, or Relai, offering a non-custodial wallet and a no-KYC policy.

    A bitcoin payment app allows users to pay with bitcoin and businesses to accept bitcoin payments for goods and services. Bitcoin payments usually happen through gateways that automatically convert bitcoin into fiat currencies.

    Bitcoin Magazine

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  • How to Buy Bitcoin With a Credit Card

    How to Buy Bitcoin With a Credit Card

    Introduction

    Surprisingly, the first time the term “credit card” was used to describe a card for spending was back in 1887, mentioned several times in the utopian science fiction novel “Looking Backward” by Edward Bellamy.

    Although, in the beginning, the concept was slightly different from today’s and did not include debt in terms of borrowing money from authorities, credit cards have been around for nearly 150 years and won’t go away easily.

    People use it for convenience but often go beyond their means, buying goods and services they could not afford without falling into debt. Over the long term, those who don’t have good money management skills could get into financial trouble if they don’t repay their debts in time, as interest rates can be excessive.

    Bitcoin Magazine

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  • Best Bitcoin-Only Exchanges

    Best Bitcoin-Only Exchanges

    Introduction

    Bitcoin-only exchanges are platforms where people can buy or sell bitcoin using fiat currencies or stablecoins.

    You can refer to our guide on “How To Buy Bitcoin” for further information on joining an exchange. Still, you usually need to sign up with some basic personal data and transfer fiat or cryptocurrency to the platform to start buying bitcoin.

    Learning about Bitcoin is an important step you should follow before investing. So be sure to read our Bitcoin guide to fully understand what you are buying and why it is so important to keep your bitcoin safe.

    Bitcoin Magazine

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  • How to sell Bitcoin – Bitcoin Magazine

    How to sell Bitcoin – Bitcoin Magazine

    Introduction

    The global geopolitical and economic scenario is getting more dire with every new day, and even some institutional personalities of the financial world, like Bill Miller, have recently come out to say that bitcoin is an “insurance policy against financial disaster.” To understand why that might be the case, take some time to read our Bitcoin guide.

    If you bought bitcoin in the past, there are different reasons why you may want to sell it. You may be a trader who wants to get some profits or a pleb who needs the financial boost and has no other option than selling some of your stack. Whatever your reason, we will present to you five different ways to sell your bitcoin.

    Bitcoin Magazine

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  • How To Buy Bitcoin Anonymously: A Privacy & Security Guide

    How To Buy Bitcoin Anonymously: A Privacy & Security Guide

    Privacy matters, it is a fundamental human right, and once you go down the Bitcoin rabbit hole, you realize how important it is to sacrifice a little convenience for better protection of your wealth and identity.

    This article will guide you through the best practices and tools to buy BTC anonymously while developing a case for more privacy and security through documentation of emblematic events and the importance of protecting personal data.

    To facilitate the path to more anonymity, we’ve structured this article into three distinct sections:

    Bitcoin Magazine

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  • Backbone One, Razer Kishi V2, DualSense, Xbox Series, Joy-Cons, and More – TouchArcade

    Backbone One, Razer Kishi V2, DualSense, Xbox Series, Joy-Cons, and More – TouchArcade

    Ever since iOS 13 released with proper PS4 and Xbox controller support on iPhone and iPad, the mobile gaming landscape changed for the better. With the major barrier to mainstream controllers on iOS, Apple, finally willing to support the controllers most people already own, more and more games could justify bringing in controller support on mobile. This also led to the MFi controller manufacturers going above and beyond with fantastic new products since. With iOS 16, Nintendo Joy-Cons and the Pro Controller are also supported on iOS, with iPadOS 16 out next week.

    With Netflix actually having a great lineup of games on its subscription service, Apple Arcade also has some proper competition on the gaming subscription front for the first time. Over the last few years, the controller guides I’ve done have mostly focused on the console controllers since I didn’t have access to the newer and good MFi controllers. For this one, I’ve tried to be as thorogh as possible with the inclusing of the Backbone One PlayStation Edition and the newly-released Razer Kishi V2 for my comparisons. While many people likely already have a controller from a console or from playing on PC, I wanted to help those who don’t find the best one for their own use case to play on iOS and iPadOS with so many options available now. If you’re curious about last-generation console controllers on mobile, read my previous guide here.

    Which is the best controller to buy for iPhone

    There are two approaches here. If you are looking to get a clip to play with your phone attached to a traditional console controller, skip to the iPad controller below and there’s your answer. If you want one for playing on iPhone specifically, I’d recommend getting the Backbone One (PlayStation Edition if you prefer the aesthetic) or the Razer Kishi V2. I have full reviews of both of them also up, but you should grab the Razer Kishi V2 if you’d like to use it with your iPhone in a case. If you don’t care about that, the Backbone One is my recommendation right now given the similar price point across the world. Read my full reviews of the Razer Kishi V2 here and Backbone One PlayStation Edition here. I also compared them both here.

    Amazon Link: Backbone One PlayStation Edition

    Amazon Link: Razer Kishi V2

    Which is the best controller to buy for iPad

    While iPadOS 16 isn’t out yet, the answer will not change because I will not recommend buying a Nintendo Switch Pro Controller or Joy-Cons just for playing games on iPad. If you don’t own a console and just want the best controller available for just iPad games, the one for you is the new Xbox Series X|S controller. When I did my older iOS 13 Controller Buyer’s Guide, I recommended the Xbox One S controller but the current Xbox Series X|S controller is a big step up in some important places like the share button for captures, better in-hand feel, and more. The upgraded d-pad, improved triggers, and textured grip all add up to make the Xbox Series X|S controller well worth it and the best controller for iPad.

    Barring my general recommendations, your personal needs for the controller beyond just iOS games and Apple Arcade will influence the controller you need.

    If you own a PS5 and want to use PlayStation Remote Play

    If you already own a PlayStation console, you probably will look into PS Remote Play at some point. That will obviously work best with a PlayStation controller. If you already have a PS5 with a DualSense controller, it works in iOS games I tested, and some even display the correct button prompts. The games that do support button prompts for the PS4 controller displayed those for the DualSense controller. In this case, I’d recommend the Backbone One PlayStation Edition on iPhone and using your PS5 DualSense controller on iPad or buying one for iPad.

    Amazon Link: PlayStation 5 DualSense Wireless Controller

    Is it worth buying a PS5 controller if you already own a PS4 controller for iOS

    As of now, the only reason it would be worth buying the more expensive PS5 controller to replace your existing PS4 controller is the controller hardware. I prefer the in-hand feel of the controller and the buttons. I also like that I can charge the DualSense controller with the same wire I use to charge my iPad Pro from the iPad’s USB C port. Overall, I wouldn’t pay full price to upgrade to a PS5 controller from the PS4 one for just iOS gameplay, but if you are buying one, I can’t recommend a PS4 controller anymore with how good the PS5 DualSense controller is.

    Which controller to buy on iOS if you want to use Steam Link

    If you play games via Steam on your PC, you likely already have an Xbox controller. If you want to buy a new one for iOS 16, you’re better off buying an Xbox Series X|S controller or sticking to your existing Xbox One controller. This ensures the button prompts in games are the same for you on both PC and iOS. The Xbox Series X|S controller improvements and enhancements over the Xbox One controller make it worth buying if you don’t already own one because the share button works to take screenshots and record video on modern iOS versions as well.

    Amazon Link: Xbox Series X|S Wireless Controller

    Which is the best iOS controller for xCloud / Xbox Cloud Gaming?

    The best controller in this situation is also the Xbox Series X|S controller since it natively works for Xbox One, Xbox 360 (backward compatibility), original Xbox (backward compatibility), and Xbox Series X|S games on not just the hardware but now on iOS and iPadOS.

    Xbox Elite Controller Series 2 for iOS

    While I usually have featured the Elite controllers before and adore my original Elite V1 from the Xbox One days, I can’t recommend investing in the new one with how many issues the controllers have. Microsoft needs to step up the quality controller on these expensive controllers. Until then, I can’t recommend them. I know too many people who have had to replace theirs more than once in a year.

    Which Xbox controller to buy for iOS in 2022

    Right now, the Xbox Series X|S controller is available in a few colours but there’s no functional difference. The Xbox One controller on the other hand, has a ton of colour variants with some having a textured grip. The overall best Xbox controller to buy on iOS in 2021 is any of the Xbox Series X|S controllers. Go with whichever colour you like the most. I love the blue controllers Microsoft uses so I got the Shock Blue Xbox controller a while ago and still use it today on my Xbox Series X. All the Xbox Series X|S controllers denoted as the “Xbox Wireless Controller” (look for the share button on the packaging) have the same features. Some of them ship with a USB C cable while others don’t so check on that if it is important to you. Consider getting a clip for the controller if you’re gonna play on iPhone like the MOGA officially licensed Xbox grip.

    Amazon Link: Xbox Series X|S Shock Blue Wireless Controller

    Amazon Link: PowerA MOGA Mobile Gaming Clip 2

    black dualsense ps5

    Which PlayStation controller to buy for iOS in 2022

    Two years into the new PS5 and Xbox Series console generation means much better availability of the newer controllers. While I used to recommend a cheaper DualShock 4 before, the PS5 controllers get discounted fairly often, and we’ve seen some games even add in DualSense-specific features like The Gardens Between. The $10 increase in RRP over the PS4 controller can be negated with discounts and the likes, and I’d really recommend future proofing with the PS5 controller if you can buy it. Being able to charge with the same wire you use on iPad is definitely a bonus. I also recommend the newer Midnight Black edition. I love how it looks.

    Amazon Link: PS5 DualSense Midnight Black

    Should I buy an MFi Controller for iOS in 2022?

    It still only makes sense to buy an MFi controller if you want something that grips onto your device like the Backbone One. I cannot recommend getting an MFi controller that has the same form factor as a PlayStation or Xbox controller in 2022. Those are cheaper and better overall with how Apple Arcade and other games on iOS and iPadOS support basically all controllers now. If you do want a grip-like controller, the Razer Kishi V2 and Backbone One are easy recommendations, with another option coming very soon.

    PS5 vs Xbox controller for iOS

    If you recently got an iOS device and want the best controller for premium, free-to-play, and Apple Arcade games on the system, the Xbox Series X controller is the clear winner overall. It has the new share button functionality for screenshots and video capture and also has better button prompt support. The only downside that some don’t even consider an issue is needing to use AA batteries or buy the battery pack. The big advantage is that the Xbox Series X|S controller is cheaper than the PS5 DualSense controller. That coupled with better support for button prompts makes it the best controller you can buy for iOS today with multiple color and customization options available as well.

    nintendo switch joy-cons ios 16 suppoer

    Nintendo Switch Joy-Cons and the Pro Controller on iOS 16 and iPadOS

    Since iOS 16 (and iPadOS 16) is the first supported version of iOS with Nintendo controller support, there will still be some teething issues with games. Most games assume you’re on an Xbox controller when it comes to button prompts, and not many display PlayStation prompts so far. The Switch prompts will be a bigger mess since ABXY are positioned differently on Nintendo and Xbox controllers. Right now, if you’re ok with different prompt positions and already own Nintendo controllers while finding them comfortable (I know I love how comfortable split Joy-Cons feel wirelessly), you can use them natively on iOS 16 devices. I wouldn’t go out of my way to buy them just for iOS and iPadOS right now.

    Amazon Link: Nintendo Switch Pro Controller

    PS5, Xbox Series X, and Nintendo Switch Pro Controller battery life on iOS

    The PS5 DualSense controllers have an internal battery that charges through a cable. You can connect your DualSense controller to your iPad Pro USB C port and charge it as well. If you don’t want to use a wire, you can get charging stands for it but you basically need to charge it and the battery life is pretty bad overall compared to the competition.

    The Xbox Series X|S controllers do not have an internal battery and require two AA batteries. This lasts multiple times longer than the DualShock 4 and DualSense controllers but you still need external batteries. You can use rechargeable batteries or get a play and charge kit (with USB C) from Amazon but you’re better off just buying AA batteries or rechargeable ones and replacing them when it loses charge because that ends up being much cheaper overall albeit more inconvenient.

    nintendo switch pro controller battery life

    The Nintendo Switch Pro Controller has the best battery life out of all current controllers in my testing, and it charges via USB C just like the PS5 controller.

    The Xbox, Nintendo Switch, and PS5 controllers show up under the battery widget on iOS and iPadOS. I own the Play and Charge USB C kit that lets me use the rechargeable battery pack in the controller and treat it like an internal battery but it didn’t show me a charging indicator when I used the USB C cable and plugged it into the controller with the other side on my iPad Pro. The DualSense and Nintendo Switch Pro Controllers do show charging status through the widget though. This is a small thing worth considering.

    Amazon Link: Xbox Play and Charge Kit USB C

    8BitDo Pro 2 for iPad and iPhone – is it worth getting?

    While not officially advertised, if you set your 8BitDo Pro 2 to “A” on the bottom through the slider that has 4 options with S being Switch, X being Windows, etc. It will show up as a DualShocke 4 controller when set to A, and it works flawlessly on iPadOS 15.7 on my iPad Pro right now in Apple Arcade and regular games. This is my current favorite controller for use with Switch and Windows, and having it work on iOS and iPadOS is a big bonus.

    Amazon Link: 8Bitdo Pro 2

    best switch oled controller wireless 8bitdo

    I still can’t believe how far we’ve come on iOS and iPadOS with controller support over the last few years. We are now at the point where Apple sells PlayStation and Xbox controllers in its stores and MFi controllers have finally reached the level of quality you’d hope for from something priced at $99.99. While iPadOS 16 is coming next week, hopefully this controller guide helps you find the best controller for your needs on iPhone and iPad in 2022. I’ll revisit this through the year if we have more controllers and updates that improve gaming on Apple devices.

    Disclaimer: TouchArcade may earn a small commission from purchases made using the affiliate links above.

    Mikhail Madnani

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  • How to Remove Collections from Your Credit Report

    How to Remove Collections from Your Credit Report

    How to Get Collections off Your Credit Report

    Getting collection activity off your credit report can help you accomplish credit goals like improving your score or qualifying for certain types of loans. Though there’s no one way to remove collections or guarantee you’ll get the exact outcome you are hoping for, it’s still good to know how to remove this information from your credit report whenever possible.

    The good news is that it’s possible to remove this derogatory information, so here’s exactly what you need to know about removing collections from your credit report.

    Table of contents

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    How to get collections off your credit report

    This guide will walk you through the steps of removing collection accounts from your credit report.

    Check your credit report thoroughly

    If you start getting calls or notices about bills that are past due and missed payments, it might mean these delinquent accounts and unpaid charge-offs have been reported to the major credit bureaus and now appear on your credit report. In this case, the very first thing you need to do is check your credit report thoroughly. Fortunately, it’s now very easy to get access to your free credit report online.

    If you don’t know how to get a credit report, then you can always request it each year, at no charge, at annualcreditreport.com. Knowing how to read your credit report is a helpful skill you can learn in a few moments. When checking for negative accounts, jump to the “credit history and accounts” where you can find information on missed or late payments.

    In some cases, these accounts may have been sent to collections. You can always call the creditor listed to find out if you can bring it current through them or if you have to deal with a collections agency they may have turned the account over to.

    The next place to examine is the “negative information” section. It may also be listed as “public records.” This section contains everything that can lower your credit score like bankruptcies, foreclosures, charge-offs, delinquent payments or repossessions.

    It’s important to go through this information for accuracy. If you find anything reported incorrectly, you can take steps to update or remove the information.

    How to identify collection account errors in your credit report

    If you see any information in these sections that are not accurate, you have a legal right to dispute them. Common errors you might find include:

    • Someone else’s information appearing on your credit report by mistake
    • The debt is over 7 years old
    • Incorrect data points on amounts and other activities like delinquency, date opened, balance, etc.
    • Negative items that should have been removed by law, like paid off medical bills

    If you find an error in the report, dispute the collection

    Errors on your credit report can be removed or corrected. In most cases, you have to initiate this process. For incorrect information, you can file a dispute with the credit bureaus to have the accounts investigated. Your dispute letter should include:

    • Your contact information: Complete name, address, and telephone number
    • A clear list of each mistake with account numbers
    • An explanation as to why and how the information is incorrect
    • An explicit request for the information to be removed or corrected
    • A copy of your credit report with the erroneous items highlighted
    • Supporting documentation proving how the information should be reported

    There are many ways you can contact and dispute items on your credit report. The Consumer Protection Bureau’s guide on disputing credit report errors contains the following directory of each the credit reporting agency (CRAs) and where to send disputes:

    Equifax

    Online: www.equifax.com/personal/credit-report-services/credit-dispute/

    By mail: Download the dispute form

    Mail the dispute form with your letter to:

    Equifax Information Services LLC

    P.O. Box 740256

    Atlanta, GA 30348

    By phone: Phone number provided on credit report or (866) 349-5191

    Experian

    Online: www.experian.com/disputes/main.html

    By mail: Use the address provided on your credit report or mail your letter to:

    Experian

    P.O. Box 4500

    Allen, TX 75013

    By phone: Phone number provided on credit report or (888) 397-3742

    TransUnion

    Online: https://service.transunion.com/dss/login.page?dest=dispute

    By mail: Download the dispute form

    Mail the dispute form with your letter to:

    TransUnion LLC

    Consumer Dispute Center

    P.O. Box 2000

    Chester, PA 19016

    By phone: (800) 916-8800

    According to the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA), credit reporting agencies (CRAs) and furnishers (creditors) must investigate and respond to disputes within 30, and sometimes up to 45, days of receiving your credit report dispute. If the information is found to be correct, then it will remain on your report. Otherwise, it will be removed or updated.

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    If you don’t find any errors, ask the agency to validate the debt

    In many circumstances, debts can get shuffled around from one third-party debt collector to another, sometimes several times over. It’s not uncommon for inaccuracies to get transmitted to the debt collection agency. Also, documents verifying the original debt can get lost, too.

    Once a debt ends up in collections, and you start to get communications about owing the debt, it’s totally acceptable to ask the debt collector to verify that the debt is valid and actually belongs to you.

    Here’s the information you should include in your request to validate the debt:

    • Information about the original creditor and the original account
    • Amount and age of the debt
    • Supporting documentation like an original invoice, bill, promissory note or similar document to prove the debt’s validity
    • Why the agency believes you owe the debt
    • Whether or not they are licensed to collect debt in your state

    Note, once you send the debt collector a written dispute or a written request to validate the debt within 30 days, they have to pause collecting the debt until they respond to your dispute or answer your request.

    If the personal information attached to the debt, like your name, aliases, phone number, address, etc., cannot be accurately matched with the debt, it must be removed from your credit report. Also, if they cannot provide any proof the debt is valid, it must also be removed from your credit report.

    Another tactic along these lines is to ask credit reporting agencies to correct any inaccurate information. So if you find any mistake in relation to the collection account regarding any data point, you can ask the CRA to update it. Like asking for validation, if the item is not updated in a timely manner, it must be removed.

    If the collection hasn’t been paid, continue paying on time

    Assuming the steps above don’t work, then you want to take measures to prevent further damage to your credit score. You will need to continue paying the debt until the creditor responds to your validation request or until you’ve paid the entire balance off.

    Chances are, you don’t have much room in your budget to make extra payments on a debt you didn’t expect to go to collections in the first place. In this case, try to make a payment arrangement with the creditor. Pay as much as you can with the frequency that work for your budget.

    To make sure the collector doesn’t violate any part of the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act (FDCPA) ask them to put the payment agreement in writing. Then, be sure to pay according to the agreement.

    Also, avoid giving any debt collector direct access to your debit or credit card or even your bank account, as they could withdraw more money than you agree to. Make your payment by check or money order. In some cases, you may be able to pay online.

    If the collection has been paid, send a goodwill letter to the agency

    Even if the collection has been paid, the unpaid collection and the record of collection activity can stay on your credit report and have a negative impact for up to 7 years. Some lenders will consider this derogatory information based on the credit scoring models they use or in their underwriting process, which could negatively affect your borrowing applications.

    Even with a valid, paid collection account, there’s still a chance you can get it removed, and some FICO score and Vantage score models will ignore a collection that’s marked as paid. You can write a letter asking the creditor or collector to remove this information as a goodwill deletion. Your goodwill letter doesn’t need to have a lot of information or details. Simply identify the debt, and point out that it has been paid and that you’d like them to remove it.

    The debt collector is not obligated to remove factual, verified information from your credit report, although some will as a courtesy. If this method works, be sure to get written communication from the agency saying they have notified credit bureaus to remove any reference to the delinquent account from your history. This way, you can present this to the credit bureaus in case the agency doesn’t push the update to all CRAs.

    If that fails, wait for the collection to drop off your report

    Generally speaking, negative information is removed from your credit report after seven years. The clock starts from the first date your delinquent accounts are reported. This means if you miss one or more payments, then the account is sent to collection, the “late payment” information will be removed seven years after the first date of delinquency, not when it gets to collections.

    Be aware, however, that just because a debt disappears from your credit report doesn’t mean you don’t have to pay it. If it’s not past the statute of limitations or the time frame when a creditor can sue you for a debt, then a creditor still has the right to pursue payment and even take you to court to recoup it.

    Each state has its own laws that govern the statute of limitation on debt. Make sure you understand your responsibility to pay old debts based on your state’s laws. If necessary, seek counsel from a lawyer to make sure you are compliant with your debt obligations and will not end up paying more than required.

    Should you negotiate a pay-for-delete agreement?

    In some cases, you can negotiate what is called a pay-for-delete arrangement. With pay-for-delete, you pay all or a portion of the debt in exchange for the collection agency removing the account from your credit report.

    This arrangement can be successful, but you should proceed with caution. Capture the agreement in writing (which some collections agencies are hesitant to do) and also make sure they will remove both the late payment information and the collection account. Pay-for-delete can work sometimes, but the practice is not as common because creditors are technically supposed to report accurate information to CRAs.

    As an alternative, hire a credit repair company

    Credit repair companies may help you remove negative information from your credit report, but it can be a costly service. Although you can pretty much do the same thing they can, hiring a service can save you time and potentially get better results. Plus, the credit repair company may have insight into additional personal finance tips and strategies to help boost your credit score even further.

    If you go this route, make sure that you’re dealing with a reputable company that uses effective, nonfraudulent ways to remove items from your credit report. Check sites like the Better Business Bureau, Trustpilot, the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB) or Google Reviews to make sure the services don’t engage in unethical, shady practices around credit repair.

    How to remove collections from your credit report FAQ

    How do collection agencies work?

    Collections agencies buy debt from creditors, usually at a discount. Once a licensed debt collection agency owns this debt, they can attempt to collect the debt from you and report activity on the account to credit reporting agencies.

    How long do collections stay on your credit report?

    Negative information and payment history can stay on your credit report for up to seven years. Bankruptcy can stay on your credit report for 7 to 10 years. While these don’t automatically result in bad credit, they can and do knock points off your score and discourage future lenders from considering you.

    How much do collections affect your score?

    Although there’s no formula to calculate how much a collections account affects your credit score, it’s important to know there is little difference between a paid collection account and those that remain unpaid regarding your credit score.

    In fact, paying old collections accounts can activate them again and further impact your score. If you want to remove a collections account for the purposes of borrowing, check with your lender to find out the best approach for your loan approval.

    The type of debt does play a part in how it affects your score. Medical collections, for instance, are given less weight in the latest FICO scoring models.

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    Summary of Money’s guide for removing collections from your credit report

    You can remove a collections account from your credit report with a few different methods. Though removing a collections account from your credit can be helpful, there’s no guarantee that it will work or have the results you are expecting. If you decide this is the route you want to go, here’s a quick recap on how to remove collections from your credit report:

    1. Check your credit report thoroughly
    2. If you find an error, dispute it
    3. If you don’t find any errors, ask the debt collector to verify it
    4. If the collection hasn’t been paid, continue paying on time
    5. If the collection has been paid, send a goodwill letter to the debt collection agency
    6. If that fails, wait for the collection to drop of your credit report
    7. Hire a credit repair company as needed

     

     

     

    Ryan Greeley

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  • How to Negotiate with Debt Collectors

    How to Negotiate with Debt Collectors

    If you’ve got past due debt and don’t want to pay the full amount, you may be able to negotiate that debt down significantly. Depending on your personal finance goals, this move can be helpful for paying down debt faster, in some cases, improving your credit profile. If you want more information on how to negotiate your debt in these situations, we’ll break down what you need to do, step by step.

    Table of Contents

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    How to negotiate with creditors the right way

    Although you can negotiate directly with your creditors, a debt management tactic that works especially well for medical bills, we’ll focus on negotiating down your debt once it’s been sent to collections. If you follow these steps, you should be able to negotiate your debt to an amount that works best for you.

    Understand how debt collection agencies work

    If you understand how debt collection agencies work, you’ll be empowered to negotiate the best arrangement possible. Original creditors — say, a credit card company — sell their delinquent accounts to debt collection agencies to get “bad debt” off their books and access the related tax benefits of this type of expense.

    Many agencies specialize in the type of debt they collect, usually by amount and age. Reputable ones will also only collect debt within their state’s statute of limitations. Delinquent debt can include credit card debt, student loans (or other kinds of loans), and utility or cell phone bills.

    Debt collection agencies must rely on the debtor to settle their debt, and as such, they can’t go into your bank account, even if they have the account information and routing number.

    Knowing that collection agencies buy debt for pennies on the dollar helps you understand the bill collectors’ motivations. If your original debt was $700 and they purchased it for $200, you know there could be some wiggle room to negotiate a settlement to pay less than the original $700 amount.

    The debt collection agency wants to, at a minimum, recoup their original investment plus a profit, often between 25% to 50%. No matter what they want out of the situation, you should still do your best to get the most favorable settlement possible.

    Fully comprehend the extent of the debt

    Although it might be tempting to comply with a debt collector’s request for money right away, take some time to figure out what’s going on. Get the correct information regarding:

    1. The amount of the original debt
    2. The name and address of the original creditor
    3. The date the debt became delinquent

    By law, creditors have to supply this information within 5 days of contacting you.

    If you know how to get a credit report, then you can also get information about this debt from there. Make sure everything matches up both on your credit report, as reported by all three credit bureaus along with the information from the debt collector. Now, you can get free credit reports weekly to stay on top of all the updates that hit your credit report.

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    Know your rights under the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act

    The Fair Debt Collection Practices Act (FDCPA) is legislation designed to prevent abusive, deceptive, and unfair debt collection practices of debt collectors. When this legislation was proposed, findings suggested that abusive debt collection practices “contribute to the number of personal bankruptcies, to marital instability, to the loss of jobs, and to invasions of individual privacy.” In November 2021, the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB)’s Debt Collection Rule provided clarification on some of the provisions in the FDCPA, namely related to how you can be contacted.

    Provisions of this legislation give you several rights that you should be aware of:

    • Debt collectors may call you between the hours of 8:00 am and 9:00 pm in your local time zone unless you give them permission to conduct phone calls outside those hours.
    • In some cases, debt collectors may be prohibited from contacting you at your place of employment.
    • You can request, in writing, that debt collectors stop calling you and communicate via other means instead.
    • Debt collectors may contact your friends, relatives or employer to find out your phone number or where you live, but they cannot reveal details about the debt owed.
    • Debt collectors cannot engage in any type of harassment that includes profane, abusive or threatening language when attempting to collect a debt.
    • You have a right to dispute your credit report and get validation of the debt. Debt collection activities must stop if you dispute it within a certain time period.
    • Debt collectors can contact you on social media and send a friend request, but they must make clear that they’re a debt collector.

    If a debt collector or credit is found to be in violation of the FDCPA, the statutory damages are up to $1,000 for each action. It’s also possible that you might be able to get actual damages, attorneys’ fees, and court costs.

    Depending on the entity you are dealing with, your only recourse may be to file a complaint with the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) which will conduct its own investigation and, as needed, take action against the creditor. Finally, you should know that the FDCPA only applies to third-party debt collectors like debt collection agencies. Original creditors are not bound by the FDCPA.

    Ask the debt collection agency to validate your debt

    As mentioned above, you have the right to get all the information pertaining to the debt. Within 5 days of contacting you, the debt collection agency has to verify details around the original debt like the name and address of the original creditor, amount, date incurred, etc. They should also have your correct contact information connected to the debt to make sure that it’s actually yours.

    If you don’t believe the debt is yours, you have up to 30 days to dispute it. While the collector is confirming the validity of the debt, they can’t engage in any collection activities. If the debt can’t be verified, the collection agency has to stop collection activities and remove it from your credit report.

    Need help coming up with the best letters to communicate with debt collectors? The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau has a number of debt collection letter templates you can use to send to the collection agency.

    Come up with a reasonable repayment or settlement proposal

    If it turns out that the debt is yours and it belongs to you, then it might be best to start planning for the payoff. Many times, debt collectors have purchased your debt from the original debt at pennies on the dollar.

    If all they want to do is recoup their initial investment and make some profit, then there might be room to settle for a partial payment. Keep in mind that not paying the full amount of your debt could show up on your credit and count as a mark against you. Though it’s not as bad as having unpaid debts, you should know that a settlement could put negative information on your credit profile and impact on your credit score.

    When negotiating down your debt, come up with an amount that makes sense for your budget.It might be a good idea to consider using a credit counselor for a debt management plan which offers some level of debt consolidation, without going into debt consolidation loans. Credit counseling can often be found for free through non-profit organizations and can help you with your credit repair process (another option for this last issue is looking into credit repair companies).

    If you can make a lump-sum payment, consider that in your negotiations. If you need more room in your budget, propose a longer repayment plan with lower installments of monthly payments. If your goal is to knock out the debt quickly, then make larger payments over a smaller amount of time. You could also pay in a single lump sum.

    We should also note here that starting a payment plan for old debts could reactivate an account. If this debt was slated to fall off your credit report due to the statute of limitations or reaching the 7-year mark, it could have a negative impact on your credit. Starting a payment plan will create new activity on this debt, and it may also restart the clock for both statute of limitations and your credit profile.

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    Negotiate with the collection agency using your proposal

    Once you have a clear view of your position, it’s time to negotiate a settlement offer. If possible, avoid presenting your settlement offer first. Let the other side make the first suggestion, then present a counteroffer with a lower number. Repeat this back-and-forth process until you arrive at a settlement amount you are happy with.

    It’s ok to start negotiations with a lowball offer. You may think there’s no reason to start with what might seem to be a somewhat absurd proposal, but you might be surprised to find that the debt collector is agreeable to your offer. It never hurts to try!

    Tip: While you may be inclined to go with a debt settlement company, be wary of some red flags, such as promising to settle all your debt or charging money before settling your debt. If their debt relief package sounds good to be true, it likely is. Further, some creditors may refuse to work with a debt settlement company at all.

    Make sure all agreements are set in writing

    Debt collection agencies are notorious for not keeping a record of payment agreements or even reneging on them. The representatives you talk to may or may not annotate your account with the details of your conversations or payment arrangements you’ve negotiated.

    Before you think your arrangement is set in stone and begin making payments, make sure the debt collection puts your payment arrangement in writing on official company letterhead. That way, if they deviate from the agreement or claim to have no record of it, you’ve got your bases covered.

    If some time passes and you still haven’t received a letter from the debt collection agency, you should reach out to them. Be persistent until your letter on official company letterhead comes in the mail from the debt collection offices.

    Keep calm, be patient and be careful about what you say

    Although dealing with debt and debt collectors can add stress to your life, do your best to stay calm and level-headed. Even if a bill collector is rude or becomes belligerent, keep your cool. Be polite and keep records of the dates and times you communicate with the debt collector.

    Also, avoid divulging too much information about your personal and financial situation. As all collectors inform you in their communications, any information you give them can be collected and used to help collect your debt. Provide just enough information to support your negotiations and nothing more, if at all possible.

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    Summary of Money’s guide for negotiating with debt collectors

    1. Understand how debt collection agencies work
    2. Fully comprehend the extent of the debt (and learn how to read your credit report)
    3. Know your rights under the Fair Debt Credit Collections Practices Act
    4. Ask the debt collection agency to validate your debt
    5. Come up with a reasonable repayment or settlement proposal
    6. Negotiate with the collection agency using your proposal
    7. Make sure all agreements are set in writing
    8. Keep calm, be patient and be careful about what you say

     

     

     

    Ryan Greeley

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  • How to Remove Negative Items From Your Credit Report

    How to Remove Negative Items From Your Credit Report

    Your credit report is meant to be an accurate, detailed summary of your financial history — however, mistakes happen more often than you may think.

    Whether it’s accounts that don’t actually belong to you or outdated derogatory information that’s still being reported, incorrect information could be bringing your score down unnecessarily.

    Read on to learn how to remove erroneous information from your credit report — and some tips on how to handle those negative (but accurate) items that are dragging your score down.

    Table of Contents

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    How to remove negative items from your credit report yourself

    First, it’s important to know your rights when it comes to your credit history. Under the Fair Credit Reporting Act (FCRA), credit bureaus and lenders must ensure that the information they report is accurate and truthful.

    This means that, if you find mistakes in your credit report, you have the legal right to dispute them. And, if the bureaus find that the information you disputed doesn’t belong in your record or is outdated, they are obligated to remove it.

    Common credit report errors include payments mistakenly labeled as late or closed accounts still listed as open. It’s also possible for your report to include information from someone else, possibly someone with a similar name, Social Security number or identifying information.

    Bear in mind that correct information cannot be removed from your credit report for at least seven years. So, if your score is low due to down because of accurate negative information, you’ll need to repair your credit over time by making payments on time and decreasing your overall amount of debt.

    Here are some tips to help you repair your credit history:

    1. Get a free copy of your credit report

    It’s important to check your credit report frequently — at the very least annually, if not more often — to catch any irregularities early on.

    Under federal law, you have the right to obtain a free credit report from all three major credit bureaus (Equifax, Experian and TransUnion) once a year. However, because of the pandemic, all three bureaus are offering free weekly reports through the end of 2022.

    You can request yours through AnnualCreditReport.com, the only free credit report website authorized by the federal government. Make sure to check your reports from all three bureaus since each one can include different information from creditors and lenders.

    You can also request them by:

    Phone: (877) 322-8228

    Mail: Download, print, and complete the request form and mail to:

    Annual Credit Report Request Service

    P.O. Box 105281

    Atlanta, GA 30348-5281

    Other ways to get your credit report

    In addition to your annual report, you can request additional free copies if:

    • You were denied credit, insurance or employment in the past 60 days based on your credit
    • There are sudden changes in your credit limit or insurance coverage
    • You’re receiving government benefits
    • You’re a victim of identity fraud
    • You’re unemployed and/or will apply for employment within 60 days from the date of your request

    To request additional copies, contact the bureaus directly. Here’s how to do it:

    • Experian: Go to this page, select “Request my Credit Report” and follow the prompts. If you don’t qualify for a free copy, you’ll have to pay up to $12, plus tax.
    • Equifax: Create a myEquifax account. Once your profile is set up, you can request a copy from your account page.
    • Transunion: Create a TransUnion account. You may access your credit report once every 24 hours through your account.

    For a more detailed guide on how to request copies, make sure to read our article on how to check your credit report.

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    2. File a dispute with the credit reporting agency

    Once you have your report, look through each account and see if there are creditors or accounts you don’t recognize. It’s also important to check whether older derogatory items (items that are more than seven years after the original delinquency date) are still being reported.

    If you do find errors in your reports, dispute them directly with the reporting bureau through its website or by mail. This will prompt an investigation on the bureau’s part.

    Bear in mind that you have to dispute the entry with each agency to make sure the removal is complete across the board.

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    How to file a dispute online

    Each bureau — Equifax, Experian and TransUnion — has a section dedicated to walking consumers through the online dispute process. Once you create an account, you can file as many disputes as you need and check their status for free.

    How to file a dispute letter

    You can also send a dispute letter to the bureaus detailing any inaccuracies you’ve found in your credit file. When writing your letter, provide documentation that supports your claim and be precise about the information you are challenging. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB) recommends enclosing a copy of your report with the error circled or highlighted.

    Depending on the information being disputed, these are some of the documents you can provide to help aid the investigation:

    • Credit card or bank statements
    • Copies of checks
    • Letters from lenders certifying mistakes
    • Pay stubs
    • W-2 forms
    • Utility bills
    • Proof of identity (birth certificate, driver’s license, passport, for example)
    • Police reports (in the case of identity theft)

    Mail the letter by certified mail and request a return receipt. This will certify that the reporting agency received the letter, and you will receive a signature as evidence. Keep the certified mail signature, along with copies of your letter and any enclosed documents.

    Both the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau (CFPB) and the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) provide free letter templates you can follow.

    Dispute letters should be mailed to:

    Equifax Information Services, LLC

    P.O. Box 740256

    Atlanta, GA 30374

    Include this dispute form with your letter.

    Experian

    P.O. Box 4500

    Allen, TX 75013

    TransUnion Consumer Solutions

    Consumer Dispute Center

    P.O. Box 2000

    Chester, PA 19016

    Include this dispute form with your letter.

    3. File a dispute directly with the creditor

    You can also contact the company that provided the information to the bureau in the first place, such as a bank or credit card issuer. Lenders are required to investigate and respond to all disputes.

    Remember to include as much documentation as possible to support your claim. Including a copy of your report marking the error is also helpful.

    The address you should mail the letter to is usually listed on your report, under the negative item you’d like to dispute. You can also contact the lender directly to verify the mailing address and the documents you should include.

    If the lender finds that it was mistaken or cannot prove that the debt actually belongs to you, it will notify the bureau and ask it to update your file.

    4. Review the claim results

    Reporting agencies and lenders usually take around 30 days to investigate disputes. Once they make a decision, they must notify you within five days of completing their review. The notice will inform you if the disputed item was found to be inaccurate or not.

    If the disputed information was, in fact, inaccurate, the bureau must update or delete the item. They should include a free copy of your file if the dispute results in a change.

    If the bureau or lender finds that the disputed information isn’t a mistake, you can file an additional claim. Review your initial claim for any errors and correct those. If possible, you should include additional documents to support your request, which can help the bureau evaluate any information it might have missed the first time around.

    5. Hire a credit repair service

    Disputing errors can be time consuming, especially if your history has several mistakes or if you were a victim of identity theft. Reputable credit repair companies — such as Credit Saint, Lexington Law or Sky Blue — may be viable solutions if your file is riddled with inaccuracies.

    Credit repair services can help you dispute inaccurate negative information and handle creditor negotiations. However, if you decide to hire a credit repair agency, remember there are consumer protection laws that regulate how they operate and what they can do. The Credit Repair Organizations Act (CROA) establishes the following regarding credit repair services:

    • They cannot provide false or misleading information concerning a person’s credit status and identification
    • They must provide a detailed description of the services they provide
    • They cannot charge for their services until they have been completed (although most of them do charge a small initial work fee)
    • There must be a written contract detailing the services they’ll provide, the time frame in which these services will be provided and the total cost for them
    • They cannot promise to remove truthful information from your record before the term set by law (seven years for most derogatory items, ten years for some bankruptcies)
    • You have three days in which to review the contract and cancel without penalty

    Before signing up with one of these companies, it’s important to understand what they can and cannot do. For example, any company that promises to remove accurate negative items or create a new credit identity for you is most likely engaging in illegal practices or a scam. Check out our picks for best credit repair companies for more information.

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    How to dispute accurate information in your credit report

    Accurate items in your record can’t be removed before the term set by law expires, which is seven years for most negative items. For example, if you truly missed payments on your credit card, your dispute to remove that information will be denied. However, the information will automatically fall off your credit report seven years from the time you missed the payments.

    If you do have valid negative items on record, here are some things that might help:

    1. Send a request for “goodwill deletion”

    Writing a goodwill letter can be a viable option for people who are otherwise in good standing with creditors. If you’ve taken steps to pay down your overall debt and have been paying your monthly bills on time, you might be able to convince your creditor to “forgive” the late payment.

    While there’s no guarantee that the creditor will delete the derogatory information, this strategy does get results for some. Goodwill letters are most successful for one-off problems, such as a single missed payment. However, they are not effective for debtors with a history of late payments, defaults or collections.

    When writing the letter:

    • Take responsibility for the issue that lead to the derogatory mark
    • Explain why you didn’t pay the account
    • If you can, point out good payment history before the incident

    2. Work with a credit counseling agency

    Several non-profit credit counseling organizations, like the National Foundation for Credit Counseling (NFCC), can help dispute inaccurate information on your record.

    The NFCC can provide financial counseling, help review your credit history and help you organize your budget or place you in a debt management plan free of charge. It also offers counseling for homeownership, bankruptcy and foreclosure prevention.

    As always, be wary of companies that overpromise, make claims that are “too good to be true” and ask for payment before rendering services.

    When looking for a legitimate credit counselor, the FTC advises consumers to check if they have any complaints with:

    • Your state’s Attorney General
    • Local consumer protection agencies
    • The United States Trustee program

    3. Negotiate a pay-for-delete

    Pay-for-delete is a negotiation strategy in which you offer to pay your debt (partly or in full) and, in exchange, the collection agency agrees to remove the derogatory item from your file. This process is meant to remove negative items that are correctly reported, such as missed credit card payments or loan defaults.

    In a nutshell, you would send a letter to the collection agency or creditor notifying them that you’re prepared to pay off the account as long as the information is retracted from your report.

    Note that, in most cases, this tactic is a long-shot — collection agencies are not required to respond to your request if the information reported is indeed accurate. If they do, they might send a written offer confirming that they will retract the item and stating their preferred payment methods.

    Are pay-for-delete negotiations worth it?

    Since collection agencies want to get back as much money as possible, paying the debt may be enough incentive for them to remove the negative entry. However, pay-for-delete is not a dependable solution, and it falls in a legal gray area.

    Collection agencies are required by law to report accurate information, just like reporting companies and creditors. While you can certainly request it, a collection agency has the right to refuse your request. They may agree to label the collection as paid (if you did in fact pay it), but they won’t delete the collection entry itself.

    Also, note that pay-for-delete agreements might not improve your score. The most recent credit score models (FICO 9 and VantageScore 4.0) don’t factor in paid collection accounts when calculating your score. This means that fully paying the account will have the same effect as negotiating a pay-for-delete. However, bear in mind that unpaid collections will still impact your score.

    How to identify errors in your credit report

    Common credit report errors

    According to the Consumer Financial Protection Bureau, these are the most common errors consumers find on their credit history:

    Mistaken identity

    • Wrong name, address or phone number
    • Accounts from someone with a similar name
    • New credit accounts opened by someone who stole your identity

    Incorrect account status

    • Accounts wrongfully labeled as open, past due or delinquent
    • Accounts that wrongfully listed you as the owner instead of authorized user
    • Wrong date for the last payment received, date the account was opened or delinquency status
    • Same debt listed multiple times

    Data management

    • Information that is not removed, despite already being disputed and corrected
    • Accounts that are listed multiple times, with different creditors

    Balance

    • Incorrect current balance
    • Incorrect credit limit

    Negative credit report entries that impact your score the most

    Most accurate negative items stay in your file for around seven years. Fortunately, their impact diminishes as time goes by, even if they are still listed on the report.

    For example, a collection from a few years ago will carry less weight than a recent one — especially if there aren’t any new negative items in your history. Improving your debt management after receiving a derogatory mark can show lenders you’re unlikely to repeat the issue and help increase your score.

    These are the most common items that can lower your credit score:

    Multiple hard inquiries

    Multiple hard credit checks over a short amount of time are a red flag for lenders, as it tells them that you are applying for credit too often and, potentially, being denied.

    However, there are some exceptions to this. For example, if you’re looking to buy a home and want to compare interest rates between several lenders, you can. FICO and VantageScore, the two most commonly used credit scoring models, give consumers a window of around 14 to 45 to compare rates — this is known as rate shopping. All credit inquiries done between this period of time will show up on your file as one item.

    Delinquency

    Payment history is perhaps the most influential factor when calculating credit scores. If you are late for several payment cycles or not paying at all, it will significantly hurt your score. Paying a few days late won’t necessarily impact your score since creditors won’t notify the bureaus immediately. However, if you’re late 30 days or more, it will probably go on your record.

    Foreclosure

    Foreclosure can also cause a credit score to drop substantially. According to FICO, a score can drop up to 100 points from a foreclosure, depending on the consumer’s starting score. Foreclosures stay on your record for seven years.

    Charge-offs

    Charge-offs occur when a creditor has stopped expecting a debt to be paid. This can happen if a debt isn’t paid within 180 days — although some creditors could charge off a debt in as little as 90 days. Charge-offs can cause your credit score to drop 100 points or more.

    Repossessions

    Repossessions can lower your score by around 100 points or more, mainly due to the series of missed payments that lead up to it.

    Judgments

    If a collection agency or debtor sues you for payment, a court might issue a judgment against you, mandating that you pay the debt in addition to other fees and attorney costs. The impact from a judgment can vary, but it could lower your score by more than 100 points.

    Collections

    A collection occurs when the original creditor hires an outside firm to collect payment. These fall under payment history, and can easily knock off more than 100 points from your score.

    How do errors impact your credit score?

    Your credit score is calculated using different models such as VantageScore and FICO, the two most widely used credit-scoring models. Each model has its proprietary metrics and criteria. However, both use data from the major credit reporting agencies to generate your score.

    Both scoring models also consider similar factors when calculating your score. These include your total credit usage and length of credit history, for example. But your payment history is the most important factor when determining your credit score.

    Your payment history alone makes up around 35% of your FICO score and 42% of your VantageScore 4.0. Since payment history is so significant, a single inaccurate late payment could impact your score considerably. According to FICO, if your report has a 90-day missed payment, your score could drop by as much as 180 points.

    How to remove negative items related to identity theft

    If you believe you’ve been a victim of identity fraud, you should first file a dispute with the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) online at IdentityTheft.gov or by phone at 1-877-438-4338. You should also file a police report.

    After you report the incident, make sure to take the following steps:

    • Request a copy of your credit report through AnnualCreditReport.com
    • Look out for unauthorized transactions or new accounts that don’t belong to you
    • Contact the credit bureaus through phone or mail to dispute any credit information that doesn’t belong to you
    • Place a security freeze and fraud alert on your credit report
    • Contact creditors to close compromised accounts
    • Consider subscribing to an identity theft protection or credit monitoring service

    The impact of identity theft on your credit report

    Identity theft — when someone steals your personal information and uses it to open new financial accounts — can wreak havoc on your credit. These new accounts show up on your credit record and hurt your score, especially if they’re delinquent or if the identity thief applied for several in a short amount of time.

    Cleaning up your credit after identity theft can take anywhere from several months to years. The longer it takes you to realize someone stole your identity, the more difficult it will be to undo the damage. This is why keeping a close eye on your report and learning how to protect yourself from identity theft will help you to keep your information safe.

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    Avoid the following strategies when trying to repair your credit

    While the following methods can be tempting options when trying to repair bad credit, they can often cause more harm than good. Stay away from the following:

    Closing a line of credit that is already behind on payments

    Closing a card that’s behind on payments doesn’t eliminate the debt. In fact, it can lower your credit score by increasing your debt-to-credit ratio, also known as credit utilization percentage. This ratio represents the amount of credit you’re currently using divided by the total amount of credit you have available.

    For example, if you have two credit cards, each with a maximum credit limit of $5,000, your total available credit is $10,000. Owing $3,000 on one card and $2,000 on the other would mean you’re using 50% of your total available credit.

    To improve your credit score, experts recommend keeping your credit utilization under 30%. Following the example mentioned above, that would mean using only $3,000 or less per cycle.

    If you close one of your credit cards instead of paying it, you’ll have less available credit. Creditors evaluate your debt-to-credit ratio when you apply for new cards or loans. If your ratio is over that threshold, they might classify you as a high-risk borrower, offer you less attractive interest rates or even deny you credit altogether.

    Filing for bankruptcy

    Bankruptcy should be considered a last resort — it can seriously damage your score and hinder your ability to get loans, mortgages or credit for years after your debts are discharged.

    There are two types of bankruptcies available for individuals: Chapter 7 and Chapter 13. A third type, Chapter 11, is meant for businesses.

    Under a Chapter 7 bankruptcy filing, a court mandates the liquidation of your assets in order to pay your outstanding debt. A trustee is then appointed to review your finances and sell off any additional asset that isn’t protected under bankruptcy exemptions.

    With a Chapter 13 bankruptcy, on the other hand, you’re allowed to keep your assets as long as you complete a court-mandated repayment plan meant to pay your highest priority, secured debt.

    Impact of bankruptcy on your credit report

    Filing for bankruptcy can lower your score by around 200 points or more. It will also negatively impact your chances of getting new lines of credit or loans for several years until your credit history substantially improves.

    If you file for Chapter 7 bankruptcy, the derogatory mark will remain on record for up to 10 years; for Chapter 13, it’s seven years.

    Credit Report Dispute FAQ

    Can you erase bad credit overnight?

    The short answer is no. Fixing bad credit is a time-consuming process that often takes months. It involves contacting credit agencies and lenders to dispute inaccurate information, and they can take up to 30 days to respond to your request. They may also ask for more documentation to validate your dispute, further prolonging the process. Additionally, note that accurate negative items cannot be deleted from your report and will remain on your record for at least seven years.

    What information can’t be disputed from your credit report?

    You can’t dispute accurate information. For example, if you missed some credit card payments or filed for bankruptcy within the last seven years, the information will remain on your record.

    How long does bankruptcy stay on your credit report?

    Chapter 13 and Chapter 7 bankruptcies stay on file for a period of seven and 10 years, respectively.

    How long do hard inquiries stay on your credit report?

    Hard inquiries stay on your file for two years. However, they only impact your score for the first 12 months. They have no impact on your score after that point.
    Additionally, not all hard inquiries impact credit scores. For example, if you’re comparing loan rates during a short period of time (around 14 days), scoring models will round up all hard inquiries under a single one.

    How long do late payments stay on your credit report?

    Late payments are reflected in your file for around seven years from the original delinquency date — the date of the missed payment.

    Summary of Money’s Guide for Getting Negative Items Removed from Your Credit Report

    • Order a copy of your credit report through AnnualCreditReport.com and search for inaccurate information, like missed payments or accounts that don’t belong to you.
    • You should also notify your bank or credit card issuer. They can help you verify that the information in your report is, in fact, erroneous and notify the bureau.
    • Be on the lookout for a response from the bureau. It should arrive in around a month or less. If they accept your dispute, request your credit report again to make sure the negative information was removed.
    • If your report is riddled with errors or you’re finding the dispute process difficult, consider hiring a credit repair company.

    Ryan Greeley

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  • How to Establish Credit with a Credit-Builder Loan

    How to Establish Credit with a Credit-Builder Loan

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    Receiving credit approval can be tricky. It’s difficult for a borrower to qualify for loans and credit cards if they don’t have a good credit history. Creditors want proof that you don’t overspend and can pay your bills on time. If you don’t already have an established credit line, you may struggle to demonstrate that you’re a reliable borrower.

    Luckily, borrowers can improve their credit scores through credit-builder loans. Keep reading to learn more about these loans and who should apply for one.

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    What is a credit-builder loan?

    Community banks and credit unions sometimes offer credit-builder loans as a way to give borrowers a chance to show they can make regular payments to pay off a loan or debt. Ultimately, a credit-builder loan builds or rebuilds a positive credit history.

    How credit-builder loans work

    A credit-builder loan is a little different from a traditional loan. A lender holds money in a federally insured savings account. Every month, you pay the lender as though you are paying a credit card bill or loan, and your lender reports those payments to the credit bureaus. As long as you pay your credit-builder loan payments on time, your credit score should improve.

    Unlike a traditional loan, the borrower doesn’t receive money at the loan closing. Instead, once the lender obtains the last payment, the borrower receives the funds.

    How much is a credit-builder loan?

    Since the objective of this loan process is to help the borrower establish a good credit history, terms and amounts are different from a traditional loan.

    Lenders offer these loans in small amounts, such as $500 to $1,500. Some loans go as high as $5,000. You make payments over the term of the loan, which is typically one to two years.

    Who needs a credit-builder loan?

    People who are trying to establish credit or rebuild it after a major financial discrepancy, such as bankruptcy, may want to consider applying for a credit-builder loan. These loans also help people trying to build credit for the first time in their lives, such as recent college graduates, divorcés or immigrants.

    For example, a recent college graduate who doesn’t have a credit card can use it to establish a positive credit history. After going through the credit-builder loan process and developing a good credit history, they may have an easier time renting an apartment or getting a mobile phone account. These types of first-time borrowers may see a bigger boost in their credit score than someone rebuilding their credit.

    To qualify for this loan, you should have an income that allows you to make $50 to $100 monthly payments for the loan’s term. Unresolved financial judgments can make it more difficult to qualify. Make sure you pay outstanding debts before applying for a credit-builder loan.

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    The importance of credit history

    Credit bureaus calculate your credit score based on several credit data points, including your credit history. In fact, your credit history makes up 35% of your entire score. It’s important to maintain a good credit history for your financial future.

    Ultimately, applying for a credit-builder loan is a good way to establish credit. It may eventually lead you to qualify for other loans, such as a car loan. Credit-builder loans can also help you obtain future loans with lower interest rates.

    Disclaimer: This story was originally published on June 1, 2022, on BetterCreditBlog.org. For more information on building your credit please visit: https://money.com/how-to-build-credit/.

    Aaron Crowe

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  • How to Get a Student Loan

    How to Get a Student Loan

    So you or someone you love has been accepted to college. Congratulations! Now it’s time to decide how to pay for it.

    Higher education is valuable but pricey — for students attending public, four-year colleges in their state, the average tuition and fees costs $10,560, according to the College Board. That total grows when you add in room, board and textbooks. It’s even higher for out-of-state or private schools.

    The first step in figuring out how to pay for college is to explore all the potential options for free money, including grants, scholarships and payment plans, according to Betsy Mayotte, the president and founder of The Institute of Student Loan Advisors. But if you’ve done that and your numbers still fall short, you might need to turn to student loans.

    Student loans are often referred to as “good debt,” or debt that has a high-value return on investment. They’re also common: According to The Institute on College Access and Success, more than 60% of the nation’s college seniors graduated with at least some student debt in 2019. Borrowers were on the hook for an average of $28,950.

    Here’s how to get a student loan that works for you — and, eventually, pay it back.

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    Step 1: Figure out how much you’ll need

    Start by doing some homework. But don’t just CTRL+F your desired college’s website for a dollar figure — that’ll likely give you the sticker price. What you actually need to know is the net price, which is how much you’ll pay after grants and scholarships are figured in.

    You can use a net price calculator to determine this. Search for your college on the Education Department’s website here to find specific prices. Or type your info into the College Board’s cost calculator here to see estimates based on national averages. Tools like TuitionFit, Edmit, MeritMore, College Raptor and MyinTuition — all of which use financial aid data and self-reporting to generate projections — may be worth a visit, as well. (Some are free; some cost money.)

    Though these calculators can give you a general idea of how much you can expect to pay for college, everyone’s situation is different. That’s why you’ll want to fill out the Free Application for Federal Student Aid next.

    American citizens and some non-citizens are eligible for federal aid if they have a Social Security number and a high school diploma (or General Education Development certificate or homeschool equivalent). You’ll need to be accepted to or enrolled in a qualified college program and have registered for the draft (if you’re male). You’ll also need to be making steady progress toward your degree.

    To submit the FAFSA, you’ll need that Social Security or Alien Registration Number, plus your family’s tax records, bank statements, investment records and documentation of untaxed income. The FAFSA also requires a Federal Student Aid account (called an FSA ID). Go to fafsa.gov to get started.

    The FAFSA opens every year on Oct. 1 and has a lengthy eligibility period. It’s already open for the 2021-2022 academic year; it closes June 30, 2022. However, many states and schools award aid on a first-come, first-served basis. They also may have their own deadlines. That’s why you’re encouraged to do the FASFA as soon as you can every fall.

    Once you’ve turned in your FAFSA, you’ll receive what’s called a student aid report. The student aid report will display your expected family contribution and indicate whether you qualify for a federal Pell Grant.

    After you’ve been accepted to a college, you’ll typically get an award notification letter that explains the combination of grants, scholarships and government loans you’ve been deemed eligible for. (Read more about how to get free money for college here.) It’ll also give you instructions on how to accept, or confirm, your financial aid.

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    Step 2: Choose a route

    There are two major types of student loans: federal and private. Federal student loans are made by the government and overseen by the U.S. Department of Education, whereas private student loans are made by banks or other financial institutions.

    Mayotte strongly recommends consumers stick with the federal loan program rather than going the private route because the government provides more opportunities for relief if borrowers end up struggling with repayment. (More on this later.) Federal student loans also tend to have lower interest rates than private student loans, and they’re also available regardless of your financial standing or credit history.

    Let’s start with federal student loans. Variations include direct subsidized loans, direct unsubsidized loans, direct PLUS loans and direct consolidation loans.

    Direct subsidized loans are for undergraduates who demonstrate financial need. One notable quirk is that the Education Department pays the interest on these loans while you’re enrolled in college and during a six-month grace period after you graduate.

    That’s different than direct unsubsidized loans, which are for undergraduates as well as graduate/professional students and don’t require financial need. With direct unsubsidized loans, you’re on the hook for the interest as soon as you take out a loan.

    You can put off paying it, but Mayotte says she encourages students to take care of interest as it accrues. That way, it’s not capitalized, or added to your principal. For undergraduate borrowers, the current interest rate for direct subsidized and unsubsidized loans is 2.75%. For graduate/professional borrowers, it’s 4.30%.

    For direct subsidized and unsubsidized loans — also called Stafford loans — there are borrowing limits based on your year in school and your status as an independent or dependent student under FAFSA. You can see a detailed breakdown by grade here, but speaking broadly, limits for undergraduates range from $5,500 to $12,500 in federal loans a year.

    It’s worth noting that there is a one-time loan fee of 1.057% for direct subsidized and unsubsidized loans first disbursed after Oct. 1, 2020.

    Parents and graduate/professional students are also eligible for direct PLUS loans. These involve a basic credit check, but Mayotte says you’d “have to have some pretty heavy-hitting past delinquencies” to be denied. These loans carry higher interest rates — currently 5.3% — and a higher origination fee of 4.2%. The biggest PLUS loan you can get is the total cost of attendance minus your other financial aid.

    Once you’ve exhausted your federal loan options, you might want to check into private lenders. Issued by companies like Sallie Mae, SoFi and Earnest, these loans are a lot less regulated. They’re contingent on your credit score, and they don’t necessarily have borrowing limits — which can be dangerous for a student who borrows more than they can ultimately afford.

    As such, tread carefully. Many experts recommend students avoid private loans altogether, but if you are going to take them out, make sure to shop around and scrutinize each lender’s terms, fees and perks before committing.

    Step 3: Consider other options

    Student loans aren’t mandatory. You can also tap a home equity loan or home equity line of credit (HELOC) to pay for college. Interest rates may be more favorable, but because your house is your collateral, this strategy can be risky. You’re basically transferring the burden from one loan to another.

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    Another way to manage college costs is to see whether your school offers a tuition payment plan. These can allow families to make payments over a period of time as opposed to all at once up front.

    You may also have special circumstances that change the rules for you.

    For example, the government provides scholarships and grants to students training for the military as well as to those whose parents and guardians died in Afghanistan or Iraq after 9/11. Service members with student loans — whether they’re private or federal — won’t see interest rates above 6% while on active duty. People with certain federal direct loans can defer repayment.

    Undocumented students can’t access federal student loans, though they may qualify for in-state tuition or private student loans. Your criminal record may also impact your eligibility.

    Step 4: Do the paperwork

    After you fill out the FAFSA, you don’t need to submit a separate loan application to access federal loans. But there is other paperwork to complete with the U.S. Education Department. With federal student loans, you’ll have to do some entrance counseling that runs you through the basics of borrowing money. It’ll take about a half hour.

    You’ll also need to sign a master promissory note in which you formally commit to paying back your loan plus any interest.

    If you’re pursuing a private student loan, you’ll probably need to pass a credit check. According to the National Foundation for Credit Counseling, your lender is likely looking for you to have a score “in the high 600s” or above. The better your credit score, the better your loan terms and interest rates will be.

    If you have bad credit or no credit history, you may need a co-signer. They can be a parent, a relative or a friend, but Steve Muszynski, CEO and founder of Splash Financial, says “you want to make sure that co-signer has a strong financial history.” That trust needs to go both ways: Like with other loans, a student loan co-signer agrees to share responsibility for the debt if the borrower doesn’t pay it back.

    To prepare for a credit check or loan application and get an idea of where you stand, you may want to pull your credit report and review your credit history for any major errors. (Thanks to the pandemic, you can get one free credit report every week on AnnualCreditReport.com until April 2021.)

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    Step 5: Pay it back

    Mayotte urges borrowers to plan ahead for their first payment.

    “Nothing should catch you by surprise,” she says. “Even when you’re borrowing your very first loan in your very first year of school, you should be doing that anticipating what your total borrowing is going to be.”

    Her rule of thumb: If you had to borrow $10,000 your first year, you should assume you’re going to end up having to borrow about $50,000 overall. And for every $10,000 you borrow, you should assume you’re on the hook to pay roughly $125 a month for 10 years.

    What you shouldn’t do, she says, is wait until you get your first post-graduation, post-grace period bill to decide on a path to paying it back.

    If you think the payments are going to be too much for you, you should explore repayment options. Private loans aren’t super flexible, but federal ones are. Because of this, if you’ve got a mixture of both, Mayotte’s organization recommends tackling the private ones first.

    There are tons of repayment options for federal loans; the government even has a loan simulator tool that helps you find your best repayment strategy based on your employment situation, location, salary, projected income growth, tax filing status and more. You can choose whether you’d prefer to pay your loan off fast, prioritize a smaller monthly payment and so on.

    “You really should be doing a budget and figuring out how much you can afford to pay,” Mayotte says. “The name of the game is paying the least amount over time.”

    One popular route is income-based repayment, which ties your monthly student loan bills to your earnings. You could have no required monthly payment, or you could be asked to pay up to 20% of your discretionary income.

    After 20 or 25 years, depending on the income-based plan you qualify for, any outstanding debt will be forgiven. But keep in mind that while these plans can reduce how much you pay monthly, they may actually increase how much you pay over the long term because your monthly amount due may not be enough to pay down your principle.

    If you have multiple servicers, you can also consider direct loan consolidation. Although this lets you combine several federal loans into one, it won’t lower your overall interest rate.

    If you’re having trouble affording your student loan payments, the government allows borrowers to defer/postpone their payments or put loans into forbearance. In forbearance, interest always accrues; in deferment, interest will accrue on most loans, though there are some that are exempt.

    For this reason, the Education Department urges borrowers to learn their other repayment options before resorting to deferment and forbearance. In most cases, enrolling in an income-driven repayment plan to lower your monthly payment to a more affordable amount is preferable to either forbearance or deferment. (If you’re already in one of these plans but are still struggling to afford your debt, you may be able to update your financial information to reduce your payment.)

    Private loan companies often have forbearance options, too, but they may come with a fee or be less generous than federal ones. Should you choose to refinance your loans, companies like Muszynski’s Splash Financial or Credible can help you compare interest rates and (hopefully) save money.

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    Ultimately, you want to do everything you can to avoid missing payments. Not only does it start you down a path to delinquency, which can affect your credit score, but it can also push your loan into default. There’s a long list of consequences for defaulting on your student loans — it can impact your eligibility for more aid, stop you from accessing deferments and prevent you from getting your transcript. The government can withhold money from your tax refunds. You might even end up in court.

    Before it gets to that point, you should reach out to your servicer, a financial advisor, a student loan counselor or a group like Mayotte’s for help.

    “If you’re struggling, you should always call,” Mayotte adds. “Especially with federal student loans, it’s very rare that we can’t find a solution for you.”

    Admittedly, the pandemic has altered some of the traditional student loan advice. For example, the CARES Act — and then an executive order from President Donald Trump — has placed all federally held student loans on pause for the time being. They’re in automatic administrative forbearance, meaning borrowers are not required to make monthly payments and interest will not accrue until at least Dec. 31. (Note: Just because you’re not forced to pay doesn’t mean you shouldn’t. You may want to capitalize on this opportunity and pay your principal down directly. It depends on your individual financial situation.)

    As you pay off your student loans, you should also keep an eye on what’s happening in U.S. politics. It may impact your student debt burden.

    President-elect Joe Biden‘s pandemic recovery plan includes a promise to forgive $10,000 of debt for each student loan borrower. Separately, he’s said he wants to tweak income-driven repayment plans so that borrowers won’t have to start paying their bills until they make a $25,000 salary. Biden also wants to change the Public Service Loan Forgiveness program, which currently forgives loans for certain employees who make 120 monthly payments.

    Even with these possibilities, you’ll still want to be cautious with your loans.

    “Never borrow more than you need, and never borrow anticipating forgiveness,” Mayotte says.

    More from Money:

    What Can Student Loan Borrowers Expect Under a Biden Presidency?

    Student Loan Strategies: How to Borrow Smartly (and Maybe, Less) for College

    What Happens to Your Student Loans If You Die?

    Ryan Greeley

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