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Tag: Gardening 101

  • Lessons Learned: The Misadventures of a Former City Slicker and Her Cut Flower Garden – Gardenista

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    Cut flower garden. This is a sub-category of garden that, if you had asked me about three years ago, I wouldn’t have even understood, let alone imagined someday having. But three years ago, when we moved from New York City to eight-plus acres in Bucks County, Pennsylvania, and set about not only caretaking but working to improve the gardens that were now part of our domain, our super-gardener friend Stephanie declared in a tone that conveyed obviousness, even inevitability, “Well, of course you’ll have to plant a cut flower garden.”

    For the uninitiated like myself, a cut flower garden is like a vegetable garden but for flowers—not for decoration but for service. I suppose that more elaborate cut flower gardens are meant to service florists or weddings or even roadside stands. But in our case, our cut flower garden services our dining table and our bedside tables and my desk and anywhere else we need that bump of indoor summery joy around our home. 

    Fast-forward to a year after Stephanie’s suggestion and, indeed, we planted a cut flower garden—resplendent with zinnias, cosmos, dahlias, bells of Ireland, snapdragons, gomphrena, purple hyacinth beans, and more. But there was a problem: Cut flowers are supposed to grow tall—for, ahem, those big tall giant vases that we don’t have—and that means you have to support the plants. And the way that most people create cut flower garden supports, according to our gardening friends as well as the internet, is with a combination of heavy green garden stakes and twine. You pound the garden stakes into the ground at regular intervals, say, three to four feet apart, and then wind twine between the stakes so that you end up with a series of twine boxes with Xs crossing diagonally. Do this lower to the ground and higher up along the stakes and, Bob’s your uncle, that’s that.

    Except Bob is apparently not my uncle, and the twine grid method, for me, wasn’t that easy or workable for three reasons. First, as a baseline, I’m not fantastically skilled at winding or tying twine in such a way that it stays taut and in place. So what initially looked like a sharp twine outline of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich expertly cut into triangles by a very anal retentive parent on school lunch duty inevitably looked, just a few days later, like said sandwich had been left at the bottom of a knapsack for weeks. Second, it never looked good. Even where I occasionally managed to get the twine taut, the giant green metal stakes stood out like sore industrial-ish thumbs pocking the landscape of the otherwise lovely natural-looking flowerscape. And third, hard though it had been to achieve this deeply imperfect twine-stake situation—and, indeed, I had spent hours setting it up—I was gutted by the realization that I’d have to eventually take it all down. And then do it all again next year. And so on and so on. Ad infinitum. Forever.

    All this effort for something that didn’t work, that looked garish, and would require repeating every single year?  Nope. And this is why I built a series of custom flower support grates and bases for them to rest on. Here’s how I did it.

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  • Fall Gardening: Can You Stop Watering Now? (And 5 Other Burning Questions) – Gardenista

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    Ah, fall: when cozy sweaters come out, the air crisps up, a kaleidoscope of colorful leaves decorate sidewalks, and it’s a struggle to decide which pumpkin-flavored drink to buy at the local coffee shop. In the garden, grasses turn tawny, flowers transform to seed heads, and it’s a struggle (as you sip your pumpkin-spiced latte) to decide what needs to be done and how to prepare plants for the coming sleepy, cold months.

    You’re on your own picking your hot beverage of choice, but we can help you figure out your fall gardening chores. Below, six burning questions you may have about autumn gardening.

    Featured photograph by Christin Geall, from Flower Design: A Week at the Cambo Estate in Scotland.

    Do you still need to weed?

    Above: Photograph by Justine Hand, from Landscaping 101: A Garden Arsenal to Fight Weeds.

    Yes. (And sorry!) We may not always see weeds, but trust me, they’re there, quietly resting below the soil surface, waiting for us (or creatures) to disturb the soil so that they can get some sun and a drink of water—and then KABOOM! Total weed invasion. Fall is definitely a time when weed seeds are storing food for winter, or they are exploding as they dry up. My advice: don’t procrastinate. The best way to get ahead of a spring weed invasion is to get a hold of the situation in the fall. And the most important thing you can do right now is prevent weeds from going to seed. How? Remove the weeds you see. And to ensure a successful eradication, determine what weeds you have and how they reproduce. Do they spread by seed, by rhizome, or re-sprout with a deep taproot? Once you know your culprits and how they make more of themselves, then you can learn how to successfully attack them. (See Weed Wisdom: What 10 Common Weeds Are Trying to Tell You.)

    Here’s an idea to prevent weeds from taking over your world: lay down a 3-inch thick layer of mulch to bury newly dropped weed seeds and prevent light from reaching them. For large weedy areas, consider the sheet mulching method where you lay down flattened cardboard or newspaper first and then pile a thick layer of mulch on top. For individual weeds, consider pouring undiluted vinegar directly on the weed. Whatever method you do choose, manage weeds as naturally and as non toxic as possible. (See Landscaping 101: Pros and Cons of Homemade Weed Killer.)

    When can you stop watering plants?

    Above: In the Cranford Rose Garden at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. Photograph by Marie Viljoen.

    Bottom line: don’t stop watering yet, because plants still need water—just not as much as in the hot summer. After plants spend the summer devoting time and energy into leaf and flower growth, they move on to fruit and seed production, and then they take advantage of the fall season to get busy growing their roots. This means if we have a non-rainy fall, plant roots can dehydrate and plants become stressed; they will need continued drinks of water to keep them healthy. This is especially true for sunnier south-facing areas, and not so much for north-facing areas where the moisture will stay longer. Also, remember that plants under solid eaves don’t benefit from rainfall and can remain dry as a bone so you will need to hand water these areas.

    Pro Tip: Newly installed or transplanted plants definitely need regular watering through the fall.

    Our editor Meredith uses a galvanized watering can to thoroughly soak the plants in her window boxes in San Francisco. Photograph by Liesa Johannssen for Gardenista, from Container Gardens: 5 Tips for a Perfect Window Box.
    Above: Our editor Meredith uses a galvanized watering can to thoroughly soak the plants in her window boxes in San Francisco. Photograph by Liesa Johannssen for Gardenista, from Container Gardens: 5 Tips for a Perfect Window Box.

    When winter finally creeps in, it also brings along its own set of dry, damaging conditions. When plants are packed under snow and ice, roots still get thirsty. The solution is to super hydrate plant roots before winter, and before the ground freezes, this means giving your plants long, deep soaks of water. When temperatures start to drop below 40 degrees F, you can wind down the water. If you’re in a warmer climate, the soil may not freeze at all, and if it doesn’t rain for a few weeks, your plants will still need a weekly dose of H2O.

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  • Gardening 101: How to Store Dahlia Tubers in Winter – Gardenista

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    I don’t know any gardeners who casually grow dahlias. Their fireworks riot of color has an intoxicating effect. You may start with one dahlia, but before you know it you have torn out the roses, planted five hundred tubers and (in at least one documented case), transformed an old tennis court into a fenced garden to make room for more flowers.

    But dahlia devotees pay a price. In cold climates (read: the ground freezes), dahlia tubers need to come out of the garden if they are to survive the winter. Dig them up and store them in the basement, garage, or a protected shed—and dahlias will reward you next summer with more enormous puffball blooms. It’s worth the effort.

    Here are step-by-step instructions for how to store dahlia tubers in winter:

    Photography by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.

    1. Wait for the first frost.

    Dahlias will bloom well into autumn if you deadhead them to coax more flowers. But frost will put a stop to that.
    Above: Dahlias will bloom well into autumn if you deadhead them to coax more flowers. But frost will put a stop to that.

    Flowers will wilt, leaves will blacken, and dahlia stems will die back after the first frost; you’ll know it’s time to store tubers in a safe spot for the winter.

    2. Dig up dahlias.

    Be careful when you dig up dahlias because, as you can see, a single plant may have a clump of connected tubers and a far-reaching root system.
    Above: Be careful when you dig up dahlias because, as you can see, a single plant may have a clump of connected tubers and a far-reaching root system.

    To dig up, first cut back stalks to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Then start about a foot away from the plant, loosening soil all around the roots and digging deep enough (18 to 24 inches) to get your shovel underneath the dahlia to tease it out of the ground.

    Dig up one clump of tubers at a time and be gentle; the tubers are fragile and break apart easily.

    3. Rinse off dirt.

    Use a gentle spray from a garden hose to wash off soil so you can see the tubers and root system of individual clumps of dahlias.
    Above: Use a gentle spray from a garden hose to wash off soil so you can see the tubers and root system of individual clumps of dahlias.

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  • Trend Alert: Beautiful Low-Impact Pathways – Gardenista

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    We all need to get from A to B, but paving—like a lawn—is best when it’s kept proportionate. Even better is a pathway that can aid water absorption, instead of an impermeable layer that puts pressure on drains during storms. And a path that uses locally-appropriate materials will add to a garden’s sense of place. Here are some ideas for ecologically seamless pathways, courtesy of designers and horticulturalists featured in our new book, Gardenista: The Low-Impact Garden.

    Photography by Caitlin Atkinson.

    Step lightly with level changes.

    Above: A garden in Mount Washington, Los Angeles, designed by Danielle VonLehe of Terremoto.

    At this Los Angeles property designed by Terremoto, risers in gravel, rather than an engineered flight of steps, minimize visual and environmental disruption. “These are six-by-six timbers that are green pressure treated, which is usually what we use,” says Dani VonLehe of design group Terremoto. “They are rebarred straight into the ground. The treads are graded soil with gravel on top.”

    Mix it up.

    Above: Three different gradients of pink aggregate were used by Terremoto in this Los Angeles garden.

    Creeping Ceanothus ‘Yankee Point’ wanders across three gradients of gravel. This detail provides a loose yet effective definition as the pathway bleeds out to rougher ground. Here, pink is mixed with some black. A mixture keeps it more lively; a color that doesn’t relate to its surroundings can be jarring

    Shop your property.

    Above: A garden in Knox County, Maine, designed by horticulturalist James McCain.

    In this Maine cottage garden, James McCain made paths that are just wide enough for necessary landscape management. James found some of the granite slabs on the property; they are “solid and timeless,” adding to this garden’s sense of place. Relaxed level changes make navigation easier on sloping ground, while generous steps like these act as small terraces, slowing storm water as it flows downhill.

    Make it mossy.

    Above: A woodland garden in St Helens, Oregon.

    Tamara Paulat (who blogs as Chickadee Gardens) cultivates a moss path on compacted ground that is tangled with tree roots. Observing how well moss grew in patches, Tamara began to consolidate it, first scraping, and sometimes bulking up soil. Moss requires an absence of leaves and weeds, which for Tamara is easily done with a few minutes each week on a battery-operated leaf blower (the only reason to use one).

    Choose ground cover over grout.

    Above: Detail from the parking area of a property in Pasadena, designed by Terremoto.

    A relaxed hardscaping mosaic of irregular pavers and gravel around the edges of a parking court is home to self-seeders that are easily thinned. Wild European thyme (Thymus serpyllum) thrives along hot rock edges, with daisy-like Erigeron karvinskianus, ambitious lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina) and Gaura lindheimeri.

    Upcycle dead trees.

    Above: Edwina von Gal’s pathway made of sliced tree trunks, in East Hampton, New York.

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  • American Persimmon Tree: How to Grow the Native Tree

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    Growing American persimmon trees checks several horticultural and culinary boxes. American persimmon—Diospsyros virginiana and hybrids of this species—are very cold hardy fruit trees, with deliciously sweet fruit, and they can be grown in regions where larger fruited Asian persimmons will succumb to very cold winters. The native fruit differs from the East Asian D. kaki in that it is small, around ping-pong ball-sized. The deep orange little persimmons remain on the tree like glowing ornaments well into cold weather, dropping when very ripe or shaken loose by wind.

    Above: Wild American persimmon fruit is about ping-pong ball-sized.

    Stately American persimmon trees belong to the ebony family (Ebenaceae) and are native to the central and eastern United States. The blocky bark of mature trees distinguishes them quickly from other woodland trees, and in late fall their vivid fruit on bare branches makes them easy to spot.

    The word persimmon is derived from putchamin, an Algonquin name for the native fruit.

    Above: American persimmons will ripen off the tree, like their East Asian Hachiya persimmon cousins.
    Above: A baby American persimmon, still attached to its flower in early summer.

    Cheat Sheet

    • American persimmons are very cold hardy, down to -25°F.
    • The fruit is sweetly ripe when very soft.
    • Generally, only wild persimmons taste better after a frost; breeders have developed cultivars that ripen before frost.
    • Wild native persimmons contain a few flattened seeds, as do some cultivars.
    • For a seedless American persimmon, try the ‘Ennis’ cultivar.
    • Persimmons can be grown from seed but it may take up to nine years for them to fruit.
    • Planting saplings gives you a head start on fruit production.
    Above: Hoshigaki are peeled, air-dried persimmons; traditionally made from Asian fruit; if you try this with American persimmons, know that they dry more quickly.

    Fascinating Fact and Caution

    • Diospyrobezoar is a rare but serious gastric malady caused by the ingestion of the specific tannins in persimmon skin and in all unripe persimmons; it is a mass that can require surgery to remove. It’s all about dose: Eat only ripe persimmons, and in moderation.

    (Some) Cultivars of American Persimmon

    ‘Prok’: reputed to be the best tasting American persimmon.
    ‘C-100’: known for having attractive red fall foliage.
    ‘Killen’ Diospyros virginiana ‘Killen’: bears medium-sized fruit.
    ‘Meader’ Diospyros virginiana ‘Meader’: bears apricot-sized fruit and leaves turn a deep orange in fall.
    ‘Morris Burton’ Diospyros virginiana ‘Morris Burton’: considered one of the best native persimmons.

    Above: Thanksgiving-ripe persimmons on bare branches.

    Keep It Alive

    • Cold hardy American persimmons can be grown from USDA growing zones 4 to 9 (plant Asian cultivars if you live in a higher zone).
    • While some cultivars are self-pollinating, others require a male tree nearby.
    • Diospyros virginiana is a very tall tree (think 80 feet); but several varieties are bred to be smaller.
    • American persimmon will grow in semi shade but produces more fruit in full sun.

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  • What to Plant on a Hill or Slope: The Experts Share Design and Gardening Tips

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    A steeply pitched lot can present a challenge for even the most seasoned garden designer. Many resort to terracing the slope to create flat ground to work within, but moving that much earth is expensive–and it deeply disturbs the site. We spoke to three garden designers who created diverse gardens on very sloped sites to learn how they handled this particular challenge. Below, these experts share their best tips, from figuring out what plants will thrive to how to keep the soil in place during establishment.

    Use a “cover crop” to prevent erosion.

    Because of heavy invasive weed pressure, Refugia planted only grass species in the first phase of this project. This included seeding a mix of fine fescue and annual rye, before planting warm-season ornamental grasses like big bluestem, switchgrass, and little bluestem. Once weeds were under control, they added flowering perennials. Photograph by Kayla Fell, courtesy of Refugia Design.
    Above: Because of heavy invasive weed pressure, Refugia planted only grass species in the first phase of this project. This included seeding a mix of fine fescue and annual rye, before planting warm-season ornamental grasses like big bluestem, switchgrass, and little bluestem. Once weeds were under control, they added flowering perennials. Photograph by Kayla Fell, courtesy of Refugia Design.

    When reimagining a residential sloped yard in Pennsylvania, Refugia Design Build first removed overgrown shrubs and a ton of invasive English ivy, leaving a lot of exposed earth. Knowing that preventing erosion would be key in the first year, they strategically seeded a mix of fine fescue and annual rye. “The annual rye served as a fast-germinating winter cover crop—a temporary tool that allowed us to get almost instant erosion control while waiting for the fescue to germinate and the rest of the plantings to be completed,” says landscape designer Amanda Branum, who was the design lead for this project. Branum notes they cut back the rye before it went to seed the following spring.

    Pay attention to root structure.

    California-based landscape designer Fi Campbell says she focussed on plants with “distinguished roots,” to hold the soil on the slope of a residential property in Los Angeles. In her climate, that meant native bunch grasses and Muhlenbergia (muhly grass), which have deep root systems. Campbell also used ground covers like creeping sages and coyote bush for stabilization. Shrubs, including toyon, manzanita, and various different buckwheat, help anchor the garden. Tip: Prairie Moon Nursery includes images of root structures for all the seeds and plants it sells, if you need help visualizing roots.

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  • Datura: How to Grow Devil’s Trumpet Flower, a White Bloom with a Sweet Perfume

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    Devil’s Trumpet, Datura

    Some of the last flowers to bloom as the growing season draws to a close are Halloween-ready: the headily scented trumpets of Datura are as ethereal as they are toxic. Until a neighbor began growing them in his city tree bed every summer, I paid the plants little mind. Sidewalks are very rough on any living thing, and the flourishing forms of these resilient annual shrubs won me over. Despite complete neglect—receiving no supplemental water, no food, and a lot of unwanted liquid attention from passing dogs—buds keep forming, blooms keep opening every night, and passersby keep being enchanted by the combination of perfume and near-artificial flower perfection, and, later, by the prickly seed capsules. The fact that Datura is strongly associated with toxic, hallucinogenic, and medicinal effects adds to its intrigue.

    Here’s more about alluring Datura, also known as devil’s trumpet.

    Above: After a slow start, the plants begin to bloom daily after midsummer.

    The flowers of Datura are vespertine, unfurling at night, and lasting until the middle of the following day. The strongly scented flowers attract sphinx moths, which are their primary pollinators.

    Above: Datura flowers always point upwards.

    Various Datura species share a long list of common names that include devil’s trumpet, moonflower, thorn-apple, and jimsonweed. The name angel’s trumpet refers to species of Brugmansia, whose flowers are pendant rather than upright, growing on woodier, taller shrubs.

    Above: The flower buds can be as long as eight inches.
    Above: Their night-scent develops through the evening.

    Despite the flowers’ sweet scent, the crushed leaves have an unpleasant odor. While not absolutely deer-proof, Datura is not top of the list for the browsing herbivores. Cases of poisoning usually affect humans, not animals, since the animals may know better.

    Toxic alkaloids are found in all parts of Datura but are concentrated in the seeds. The level of toxicity can vary very widely depending on the specific plant, which is why humans looking to experience a botanical high may instead became extremely ill, or (rarely) slightly dead.

    Before anyone panics, bear in mind that we feel comfortable around highly toxic plants like yew, foxglove, hellebore and oleander; we barely consider their complex properties.

    For more about these such plants consider Amy Stewart’s classic spooky-season book Wicked Plants: The Weed That Killed Lincoln’s Mother and Other Botanical Atrocities.

    Above: A spiny Datura seed capsule.

    Cheat Sheet

    • Datura belongs to the nightshade family (Solanaceae), which includes well known edible plants like tomatoes, eggplants, peppers and black nightshade.
    • Daturas’ origins may be American, although there is evidence of their sacred and medicinal use in Asia for millennia.
    • In South America Datura stromium leaves were (and may still be) used to treat asthma.
    • All parts of Datura contain toxic, psychoactive alkaloids.
    • Flowers open at night and last into the next day.
    Above: The sculpted, waxy-looking trumpets of Datura last until the middle of the day.

    Keep It Alive

    • Datura is hardy from USDA growing zones 9 to 11, where it is a short-lived perennial.
    • Most gardeners grow it as an annual.
    • Plant in beds as a focal point, or in a large pots (16 inches diameter, minimum).
    • Grow in full sun for the most flowers.
    • Plants will self seed even where in cold winters, but you can collect seed when the spiny capsules split to release them.
    • Seeds germinate only when nights are above 55°F and days are warm.
    • Give the plants room to spread, since they can reach three to four feet in circumference.
    • Once established, they are very tolerant of dry periods.

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  • Moonflower Vine: How to Grow Ipomea Alba, a Night-Blooming Flower

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    Moonflower vines are a quiet delight of the waning season. They are morning glory’s nocturnal cousin, and their wide, near-luminous white blooms begin to unfold every twilight at the end of summer. As the days continue to contract, and nights lengthen, a signal is sent to these photoperiodic tropical vines to begin making buds. At first, the blooms can only be enjoyed if you are out there with them, in the dark, but as temperatures cool and nights grow even longer, the flowers last well into the morning hours, and also open earlier in the day. At their peak they resemble an ethereal collective of sensitive and perfumed radio telescopes, poised to listen to something beyond our reach.

    Photography by Marie Viljoen.

    Above: The first moonflowers open at dusk. As nights lengthen they open earlier, and last longer.

    Ipomea alba is native to the tropical Americas and as far north as Florida, where it is a perennial. In cooler climates moonflower is grown as an annual climber whose tendrils can be expected to exceed fifteen feet.

    Above: Night-scented moonflowers attract sphinx and hummingbird moths.

    As a small-space gardener, I value moonflower vine for its ability to grow in a (large) pot, cover a trellis or railing in heart-shaped foliage within a couple of months of sowing, and for its exceptionally beautiful flowers, whose structural appeal is mesmerizing—try watching a six-inch long bud as it unspirals slowly and unfolds until full-blown—a botanical meditation. And then there is that fragrance, which sometimes lures long-tongued moths to visit after dark.

    Above: Moonflowers begin to bloom in July, reaching peak bloom a couple of months later.

    Keep It Alive:

    • Moonflower seeds will not germinate if temperatures are too low. Don’t even think about sowing them outdoors until nights remain consistently above 55°F (which means that the soil temperature is warm enough). The same goes for seedlings bought at nurseries. Watch the weather and plant them only once that nightly benchmark of 55° has been reached. In my USDA growing zone 7b that is around mid to late May.
    • The seeds should be soaked before sowing to soften their hard, protective capsules. This may take 12 to 24 hours.
    • Moonflowers are slow to take off. These vines will not sprint out of the starting gate. Instead, expect them to begin their fastest growth about two months after sowing.
    • For container gardeners, choose a large pot to sow them in, at least 16 inches in diameter. Moonflower vines are rambunctious and need room to grow to their full potential. They will also need a deep and daily watering.
    Above: Planted near seating, moonflowers’ delicate form offers a floral meditation.
    Above: As days cool and nights grow even longer, the flowers open in the afternoon and last well into the morning hours.
    Above: By late September many blooms open daily.

    Cheat Sheet

    • Moonflowers are Ipomea alba, a night-blooming morning glory.
    • They are native to the tropical Americas.
    • Despite their common name, they will bloom during the day as nights grow longer.
    • Do not grow them in Hawai’i where moonflowers are invasive.
    • The common name moonflower also refers to Datura species.
    Above: Moonflowers can share a vertical growing space with summer crops like beans.

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  • Review of Stihl HSA 26: The Hedge Trimmers Are a ‘Game-Changer’

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    Pruning shrubs and topiary is an exhausting business—especially if it requires being perched on top of a ladder or spending an entire day to complete the work. Large hedge-trimmers are simply far too heavy and unwieldy, and—apologies to the purists—traditional topiary shears, too slow for the impatient gardeners among us.

    Which is why electric shrub shears are a game-changer for me. I’d first seen the Stihl HSA 26 battery-powered pruners last year but held off buying them until I visited designer Sheila Jack in her Wiltshire garden, where the neat power tool is an essential for trimming her fast-growing Lonicera nitilda domes that need to be clipped every few weeks.

    The Stihl shears come with two attachments: a 20cm shrub cutter and a smaller 12cm “grass” cutter. It’s become my go-to tool, gliding through and tidying multiple overgrown hebes, a large topiarized pittosporum, and the many boxwood balls in my garden. It’s lightweight enough to work with all day—although a charged battery will get you about 110 minutes of clipping. (To recharge the battery will take about an hour; having a spare battery would avoid this issue.)

    Above: The shrub cutter blade, which is perfect for gliding over topiary and all sizes of shrubs.
    Above: The shorter grass cutting attachment.

    Crucially the HSA 26 is nimble enough and with a strong enough blade action to make clean and precise cuts. Like any bladed power tool, it needs to be used with care. But it’s extremely easy and intuitive to use, with simple blade changes and a rubberized grip for comfort. Stihl claims the shears can cope with branches up to 8mm thick (if you want a tool for chunkier branches, the brand’s cordless pruner—the GTA 26—is a mini chainsaw that is equally lightweight).

    Above: The Stihl HSA 26 is $170 at Ace Hardware.

    As we head into winter, I’m anticipating that the shears are going to be equally transformative when it comes to the big winter deadheading, especially for ornamental grasses which can be time-consuming to cut back. Like the very best tools, this one has made my gardening life a pleasure instead of a pain.

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  • Expert Advice: 10 Tips from Old House Gardens for Planning a Spring Bulb Garden – Gardenista

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    In Chicago, where I grew up, tulips were pretty much the only thing that kept us going through the winter. You can survive snow, and you can survive ice, and you can even survive the razor winds that blow in from the lake to rub your face raw, if you know that one day you will look out a window and see a clump of tulips, their swan necks improbably supporting the weight of their fat flowers.

    But it can be daunting, in the autumn, to figure out how precisely to make tulips happen. Which varieties to plant? Will crocuses grow in your climate? How do you gracefully make room in the garden for flowers that bloom briefly before producing withering foliage you shouldn’t cut back for weeks?

    For advice, I phoned bulb grower Scott Kunst of Old House Gardens in Michigan. He grows and sells hundreds of hardy and rare, vintage varieties of tulips, daffodils, crocuses, hyacinths, bluebells, and other bulbs.

    “Start small,” he suggested.

    Here are Scott Kunst’s 10 ideas for planning a spring bulb garden:

    Photography by Michelle Slatalla except where noted.

    Know your microclimate.

    Above: Photograph by John Merkl for Gardenista.

    Go outdoors and take stock of your garden’s microclimate: where are the sunny spots and well-drained soil? That’s where most bulbs grow best. Draw a garden plan to remind yourself.

    Buy 5, 7, 9, or 11.

    Above: At Rodsmarton Manor. Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer, for Gardenista.

    While you’re looking at your garden, imagine clumps of bulbs, planted in clusters of five or more of a single variety; that’s how they look best.

    Know your hardiness zone.

    The US Department of Agriculture has developed a map of hardiness zones to help you choose plants that will survive in the climate of your geographic area. Check your USDA hardiness zone by entering your zip code at USDA Plant Hardiness Map; purchase bulbs that are rated for your zone. You can search for bulbs for your zone with the Heirloom Bulb Finder at Old House Gardens.

    Start small.

    Here are some Foolproof Spring Bulbs for a Beginner. Photograph by Meredith Swinehart.
    Above: Here are some Foolproof Spring Bulbs for a Beginner. Photograph by Meredith Swinehart.

    The first year you plant bulbs, fill a few holes in the garden rather than trying to make the whole garden look like a field in Holland.

    Use a fence as backdrop.

    Photograph by Scott Patrick Myers.
    Above: Photograph by Scott Patrick Myers.

    Plant bulbs in narrow, curving clusters that run parallel to the fence. “This is a trick I learned from Gertrude Jekyll,” says Kunst. “Rather than planting a big, round circle that’s three feet wide, make a gentle curve that’s about 18 inches wide. The bulbs will be in your line of vision when they bloom, and after they go over, other plants behind and in front will hide the yellow foliage.”

    Heights may vary.

    Above: Narcissi pictured here in floral designer Milli Proust’s windowsill. Photograph courtesy of Milli Proust, from Cult Narcissi: Rethinking the Uncool Daffodil.

    When deciding where to place bulbs, take size guidelines with a grain of salt. Heights of the same variety of bulb can vary from one year to the next, and in different growing zones. “It’s OK to mix up heights,” says Kunst. “It looks less garden-y than if you try to put all the tall ones in the back and all the short ones in the front.”

    Don’t let them touch.

    Photograph by John Merkl for Gardenista. For more, see Gardening 101: How to Plant a Spring Bulb.
    Above: Photograph by John Merkl for Gardenista. For more, see Gardening 101: How to Plant a Spring Bulb.

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  • Blue Cardinal Flower: How to Grow Lobelia, a Native Perennial

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    Lobelia siphilitica, Blue Cardinal Flower

    Blue cardinal flower, also known as great blue lobelia,  is a tall native perennial that blooms for long weeks at the end of summer. Like its striking cousin, the red cardinal flower, this lobelia relishes plenty of water and is happy growing in full-sun rain gardens, bogs, and damp meadows. But it will also grow successfully without supplemental water in semi-shaded flower borders if its roots remain cool and mulched. Blue cardinal flower brings vertical interest to the garden and is a vividly blue counterpoint to the colors of late summer and early autumn.

    Above: The spires of blue cardinal flower can grow up to four feet tall.
    Above: An illustration of blue cardinal flower from William Barton’s Vegetable Materia Medica of the United States (circa 1825).

    Lobelia siphilitica’s species name is derived from one of its many Native American uses as a treatment for syphilis (in conjunction with other toxic-slash-medicinal ingredients like cherry and May apple—don’t try this at home).

    Above: Blue cardinal flower with a late summer tangle of obedient plant, ageratum, and rudbeckia.
    Above: In the middle of a border, the tall spikes of blue cardinal flower hold their own with grasses and asters.
    Above: Blue cardinal flowers support a wide range of native bees and butterflies.

    Cheat Sheet

    • Blue cardinal flower is native to eastern North America.
    • It is a member of the bell flower (Campanulaceae) family.
    • The species name of siphilitica is derived from an historical use of the plant in the treatment of venereal diseases.
    • Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds feed on the flowers’ nectar.
    • Lobelias produce a toxic compound called lobeline, which makes them less palatable to deer.
    Above: Blue cardinal flower appreciates afternoon shade where summers are hot.

    Keep It Alive

    • Blue cardinal flower is hardy from USDA growing zones 4 to 9.
    • Plant its seeds or seedlings in rich soil with plenty of organic matter.
    • It thrives in damp soil and wet edges of ponds, rain gardens, or streams.
    • Plant in full sun only in cooler climates.
    • Where summers are hotter, plant blue cardinal flowers where it will grow in afternoon shade.

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  • Bare-Root Fruit Trees: Why and How to Plant Them

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    We’ve entered the season when our gardens are starting to gradually slow down in preparation for a restful winter. We gardeners, however, can’t help but keep on pruning, planting, and planning. One project to add to your list of late-fall chores to do in the garden: plant a fruit tree.

    And if you do, consider going with a dormant bare-root fruit tree. Planting bare-root trees saves not only money (it’s always cheaper to buy bare-root over container-grown), but also your back from having to lug around heavy nursery pots.

    Here are my tips for planting bare-root fruit trees:

    1. Take stock of the stock.

    Above: Photograph via Hopes Grove Nurseries.

    When choosing which bare-root fruit tree to buy, look for ones that are shorter and with thicker trunks. Taller trees with thinner trunks might not be as hardy and stable in the ground. After planting, your tree’s canopy should be pruned anyway to even out the weight so that your tree’s top (canopy)  is in proportion to its smaller bottom (roots).

    2. Don’t procrastinate about planting.

    Bare-root fruit trees are—surprise, surprise—bare, so that means no soil protects the delicate roots. What this also means is that the exposed roots can dry out quickly. The solution? Plant your tree as soon as you get it home. The other option is to “heel it in” which means that you bury the roots in some sort of moist material for a short time until you can plant it. Some bare-root plants come in plastic packaging with moist sawdust already around the roots, which can help protect the roots and give you a little more time before planting.

    3. Soak and soak some more.

    Fuyu persimmons are the best-selling fruit tree at Dave Wilson Nursery, which sells it in bare-root form.
    Above: Fuyu persimmons are the best-selling fruit tree at Dave Wilson Nursery, which sells it in bare-root form.

    Before planting your bare-root tree, carefully untangle any roots and soak in water for at least two hours to rehydrate it. Once that is complete, mix organic compost into to your native soil for in-ground planting. No fertilizer is needed upon planting. For containers, look for organic potting soil without fertilizers because harsh chemicals could harm young trees.

    4. Measure the roots.

    Many gardeners wonder how to plant a tree that has only dangly roots and no defined root ball. Well, start by digging a hole two to three times as wide as the roots and only as deep as the longest root. Too deep of a hole and the soil and tree will settle too much. Mound up a bit of soil in the hole and spread out the roots then back fill and gently press down the soil to remove any air pockets. Pro tip: Make sure the graft union (if present) stays above the final soil level.

    5. Mulch generously.

    After planting and watering deeply, apply a thick layer of mulch around your tree. Mulch will help maintain even moisture and help prevent weeds. But don’t crowd the trunk with mulch (mulch volcanos lead to excess moisture on the bark, which can lead to rot).

    6. Practice patience.

    Above: Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer, from Gardening 101: Pear Trees.

    It’s normal to want to immediately reap the fruits of your labor, but recognize that bare-root fruit trees can be slower to produce at first as the roots get established. Be patient and you will be rewarded: some even say bare-root trees end up growing larger than their container counterparts. Expect at least a year or two before getting a harvest. Then enjoy!

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  • Invasive Plants to Avoid and the Native Alternatives You Should Grow Instead

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    We’ve all done it: planted something we love only to learn, sometimes years later, that it is invasive where we live. In many cases, we can be forgiven. If a nursery is selling it, the message conveyed is that all is well. There are fewer excuses now, when home research has never been easier and when awareness of invasive species has never been higher. Despite that, invasive plants are still being sold by many growers, and the desire for some of them sometimes overrides our internal ethicist. This list of 13 invasive plants includes some well known and understandably appealing garden ornamentals. Do not plant them, and do remove them if you are currently harboring plants whose spread alters and harms local ecosystems. An invasive plant does not stay home—it travels:  by roots, runner, fruit, and seed.

    But what about…?

    Above: Japanese knotweed in bloom.

    First, a disclaimer: this list of invasive plants is by no means complete and does not include plants like mugwort, Japanese knotweed, and garlic mustard, since we’re assuming (fingers crossed) that their notoriety precedes them and that they are probably not ornamentally tempting. But, by all means, add plants you feel should be addressed, in the comments.

    Butterfly Bush

    Above: Butterfly bush attracts butterflies but outcompetes native plants that feed their larvae.

    One of the most tempting invasive plants is butterfly bush. It smells delicious, is pretty, blooms repeatedly, and is irresistible to butterflies. What’s not to love? Consider, then, that invasive Buddleja davidii excels at producing tens of thousands of lightweight, easily dispersed seeds per flowerhead, outcompeting native flowering shrubs whose leaves are essential food for butterfly larvae. While the nectar of butterfly bush attracts adult butterflies, this shrub is not a host plant for their caterpillars, which cannot feed on its foliage. Bear it mind that while newer, so-called less-fertile butterfly bush cultivars exist, they still produce seed, just less of it. Avoid.

    Plant native flowering shrubs, instead. Sweet pepperbush (Clethra alnifolia) is a good alternative to butterfly bush, with flowers, scent, and a lot of butterfly action in late summer.

    Japanese Honeysuckle

    Above: Japanese honeysuckle smells wonderful but smothers shrubs and trees.

    As appealing as its perfumed flowers may be, Lonicera japonica is now a serious botanical thug in wild places where it is not native. The scrambling vine uses shrubs and trees for support, creating dense, shaded thickets that alter the local ecosystem by smothering native seedlings. It is spread via its fruit, vexingly ripe during fall migration. Birds disperse the seed as they move south. Japanese honeysuckle also reproduces vegetatively, via above-ground runners and below-ground rhizomes.

    An alternative to Japanese honeysuckle is of course a native honeysuckle, Lonicera sempervirens (but no scent, sorry). It is very attractive to hummingbirds. For a scented alternative, try star jasmine, (Trachelospermum jasminoides) or bee-friendly yellow jessamine (Carolina jasmine—Gelsemiun sempervirens).

    Chinese and Japanese Wisteria

    Above: Chinese wisteria at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden.

    I admire the long panicles of Wisteria sinensis and W. floribunda dripping from pergolas in botanical gardens. And then I drive up the Palisades Parkway in New York and New Jersey and see the same vines cascading from the bent branches of oak, maple, and sycamore. It’s beautiful, but it’s deadly: the strong vines of this wisteria cut through bark and cause gradual death, by girdling. Their smothering habit also alters native forest ecologies. Wisteria spreads vegetatively, growing easily from cuttings and new shoots, and by seeds, which explode from their pods when ripe. Seeds also travel along waterways, to germinate downstream.

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  • Circular Economy Gardening: How to Close the Loop in Your Landscape

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    4. Keep deadwood standing.

    Above: A simple habitat pile tucked away in the meadow at Chanticleer. Horticulturalist Chris Fehlhaber built the stack around a center post. As the stack settles, gaps form around the post. “Bumblebees use this gap to gain access to the interior of the stack, which is likely relatively well-sheltered and dry, to make their nests,” he says. Photograph by Melissa Ozawa, from Habitat Piles: Turning Garden Debris Into Shelter and Sculpture.

    Whether you call them snags or tree sculptures, dead trees are crucial to the ecosystem. According to the National Wildlife Federation, they provide habitat for a thousand species of wildlife in the U.S., including woodpeckers, bats, and squirrels. As the tree decays, insects, fungi, lichen, and moss move in, offering a feast for wildlife. As Smithsonian magazine reports, “Estimates suggest that one third of insect species in a forest rely on deadwood in some way—and these insects are food for other invertebrates, as well as birds and bats.”  

    Wood “pavers” on Edwina von Gal’s property. She digs about three to four inches deep, embeds the tree slice into the ground, and then fills in the area around them.  Photograph by Melissa Ozawa.
    Above: Wood “pavers” on Edwina von Gal’s property. She digs about three to four inches deep, embeds the tree slice into the ground, and then fills in the area around them.  Photograph by Melissa Ozawa.

    If you’re concerned about safety, remove any branches that pose a risk. Cut up logs and stack them into wood piles. Or slice 3- to 4-inch-thick rounds to create “tree cookies” to form into pathways, like von Gal does on her property. Tree cookies are especially good in high traffic areas or in places that have struggled to sustain grass or moss.  

    For smaller branches and other plant debris, craft habitat stacks or weave “dead hedges” out of branches. These areas offer shelter for small birds and other critters, protecting them from predators like hawks. (To see more examples of habitat stacks, read our story).  

    5. Make compost.

    Above: Need a tutorial on all the different types of composters on the market? See Backyard Composters, Explained: The Good, the Hot, and the Wormy.

    In a designated bin or a pile in your yard, add a mix of green materials (vegetable scraps and fresh garden cuttings) and brown matter (dried leaves, twigs, wood chips, and leftover soil). Each time you add green material to your compost heap, throw in some brown material to keep the pile fresh. If it starts to smell bad, add more “brown” bits. Turn the pile to speed up the process or simply let it be, to decompose gradually. You’ll know your compost is ready when it looks dark and crumbly.  

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  • Rethinking Mulch: Why You Shouldn’t (And Don’t Have to) Use Mulch in Your Garden

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    Ludden also recommends mulching when planting a shrub border. “I would put shredded bark mulch down because it keeps moisture in the soil and prevents weeds, and it looks neat and tidy,” she says, noting that  the shrubs don’t propagate themselves the way perennials do, so you’re not preventing growth. Mulching around trees and shrubs also reduces the likelihood that someone will run a lawnmower over their roots, but even better would be to plant a soft landing.

    If mulching woody plants or trees, use arborists wood chips and be sure not to let the mulch cover any of the bark: The root flare at the base of the trees should always remain exposed. If you have existing mulch volcanoes, remove them (arborist Basil Camu of Leaf & Limb explains how in this video).

    Vegetable gardeners may also want to mulch, says Ludden, especially if it’s something that you can till into the soil along with whatever is left of the plants at the end of the season.

    Finally, McMackin says you can use mulch when you want to shift the soil composition. For example, if the soil is too basic, you might add pine mulch. “The change is not very serious, but it will start those processes,” explains McMackin, who says to think of mulch as an amendment you’re applying to the top, with the understanding that it’s going to be integrated and building soil in the future. 

    What are alternatives to mulching?

    Above: Denser planting means fewer weeds. Photograph by Neil Landino, courtesy of Hollander Design Landscape Architects, from Garden Visit: 10 Lessons from a Coastal Landscape Designed for Deer Resistance.

    If you’re worried about weeds, plant more densely. Instead of maintaining a sea of mulch with plants in it, position the plants more closely together and let them naturally grow towards each other. For anyone worried about maintaining air flow, McMackin says, “That just wouldn’t happen in the natural world.” She notes that what is more important is to maintain healthy soil. In Garden Revolution, Weaner and Christopher note that you should also think about varied below-ground growth habits to inhibit weeds. And yes, you may have some weeds. “Weeding and watering are important in the first season or two until the perennials begin to fill in,” notes Ludden. “As plants expand naturally, and even seed themselves into open areas, weeds become less problematic.” (See The Garden Decoder: What Is ‘Cramscaping’? (And Why Is this Trend Here to Stay?)

    You can also plant a “green mulch or groundcover. Ludden has had success using Canadian wild ginger, ferns, and carexes, including Carex Appalachia and Carex pensylvanica as soft underplantings between larger perennials.

    European meadow sedge (Carex remota) is a durable green mulch. Photograph courtesy of Greenlee and Associates, from The Garden Decoder: What Is Green Mulch?
    Above: European meadow sedge (Carex remota) is a durable green mulch. Photograph courtesy of Greenlee and Associates, from The Garden Decoder: What Is Green Mulch?

    You can also mulch with clippings. McMackin suggests mulching with the plant matter from the previous season, noting, “[Plants] really want to be in a mulch made up of their own leaves and stems.” Diblik describes using a similar method in The Know Maintenance Perennial Garden, noting that, “The litter is in much bigger pieces than if it were mowed, so we cut some of the stems into smaller pieces, so that they’ll fit comfortably around the plants.” He adds, “I must admit, the first time I did this it was difficult not to run for the rake.”

    If you still feel the need to mulch, all the experts recommend swapping bark mulch for a local leaf mulch or compost. Leaf mulch or compost can provide the “neat” look that you may prefer without inhibiting the growth of perennials.

    Another solution is to give your garden beds a mullet. When working in Brooklyn Bridge Park, McMackin and her team used a neat-in-front-wild-in-the-back look, which she calls a “mullet” approach to mulching. “We would rake out leaves in the first foot or two of the garden and then put a clean edge of mulch. Then you can get away with a wilder look in the back, if you do that.” If you can’t see yourself quitting mulch, don’t let it get too deep. McMackin says an inch or an inch and a half is all you should ever need. 

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  • Downy Skullcap: How to Grow Scutellaria Incana, a Native North American Wildflower

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    Downy Skullcap, Scutellaria incana

    The longer I garden, the more I want to grow perennials that bloom for as long as possible, and that ask for as little as possible in return. Within reason. While Agastache has long been at the top of my list of summer-to-fall-flowering, pollinator-supporting native perennials, a Scutellaria species is beginning to nip at its heels: Again and again I have seen the showy, blue, distinctively hooded flowers of downy skullcap—Scutellaria incana—standing tall in perennial borders and in wild planting that enjoy little regular maintenance. The plant is compelling.

    Here’s why.

    Photography by Marie Viljoen.

    Above: Downy skullcap flowering in a dry July in part shade in an unirrigated border.

    Also known commonly as hoary skullcap, Scutellaria incana is a native North American plant that checks the following boxes: It blooms for many weeks—even months—in late summer; it flowers in full sun as well as in shade; it attracts and supports pollinators and hummingbirds; it withstands periods of drought; and it is genuinely attractive, with myriad cerulean flowers.

    Above: Deadheading downy skullcap’s spent racemes of flowers encourages new growth and a new flush of blooms.

    Downy skullcap is a  tall perennial, averaging around three feet. It begins to flower in late summer, and continues to bloom for many weeks. If it is deadheaded, those weeks extend to months. It is very effective in meadows or wild-at-heart borders combined with bee balms and milkweed, rudbeckias, helianthus and helenium, echinacea, obedient plant, agastache, and goldenrod.

    Above: Downy skullcap is native to central and eastern US.

    Cheat Sheet

    • There are hundreds of species of Scutellaria, worldwide.
    • Downy skullcap is a wildflower native to the central and eastern United States.
    • Scutellaria belong to the Lamiaceae (mint) family.
    • The square stems of downy skullcap (Scutellaria incana) are finely hairy.
    • Several species of Scutellaria are valued for their use in Traditional Chinese Medicine, as well as Native American and other folk medicines.
    • While the flowers of downy skullcap are attractive to pollinators and hummingbirds, the bitter foliage is (usually!) deer-resistant.
    Above: The plant grows to about 3 feet tall.

    Keep It Alive

    • Downy skullcap is hardy from USDA zones 5 to 8.
    • Plant it in full sun, semi-shade, or high shade.
    • It is tolerant of a wide range of soils, except those that remain waterlogged.
    • Deadhead after its first flush of blooms to encourage fresh growth and second flush.

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  • Best Flower Seeds to Sow in Fall for a Spring Bloom

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    I love this plant for its unique flower and even more unique seed heads that look fantastic added to dried flower arrangements. In mild climates, direct-sow the minuscule black seeds onto well-drained soil in a sunny or mostly sunny spot, and then keep the soil consistently moist. Love-in-a-mist seeds require light to germinate, so be careful not to cover them up when planting. Bonus: these seeds readily re-seed in my garden every year.

    Nasturtium (Self-Seeding Annual)

    Above: Photograph by Marie Viljoen.

    Another easy-to-grow favorite. I adore how nasturtiums effortlessly scramble about the garden and pump out colorful flowers and lily pad-like leaves. These hardy annuals prefer a sunny spot, tolerate poor soil, and grow well in containers or trailing from raised beds. Some gardeners recommend soaking and scarifying these hard seeds for better germination, but I’ve never done that and have had total success. I encourage my nasturtium family to come back year after year by re-scattering the seeds upon pruning them back.

    Hollyhock (Biennial)

    Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer for Gardenista.
    Above: Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer for Gardenista.

    Every year I grow some hollyhocks from seeds saved from last year or acquired from generous friends and family. Not to be blasé, but I generally just throw theses flat seeds about at the end of fall, all willy nilly. But I suppose the “proper” way is to sow them a week before last frost at just ¼ inch deep and about 2 feet apart. I find that hollyhocks thrive in a sunny to partly sunny spot. Too much shade and they bloom way less and lean too much. Also know that most hollyhocks are biennials, meaning the first year the plant just puts out leaves and then flowers the next year.

    Iceland Poppy (Annual in Warm Climates; Perennial in Cool Climates)

    Photograph by Amy the Nurse via Flickr.
    Above: Photograph by Amy the Nurse via Flickr.

    Differing from California poppies due to native origin, use, and flower type, Iceland poppies thrive in cool temperatures, appreciate regular water, and their papery translucent flowers are great for adding to arrangements. You can get a head start on your cutting garden by planting these seeds about four to six weeks before your average first fall frost, or in early to mid-fall in milder climates. Plant the tiny seeds in a sunny spot in well-draining soil and remember not to cover the seeds as they need light to germinate. Theses poppies can be slow to germinate, so be patient. I especially like the Champagne Bubbles mix.

    Milkweed (Perennial)

    Above: Photograph by Marie Viljoen.

    By now I’m sure you know how critical milkweed is to the survival of the monarch butterfly as it is the only plant the caterpillars will eat. Help our winged friends and put these seeds on your late fall planting list. After the first frost, scatter seeds directly on the soil surface in a sunny, well-drained location, and then press them lightly into the soil. If the ground gets dry, lightly water the seeds. Just be sure to choose a milkweed that’s native to your area. Why? Planting non-native types of milkweed risks the health of the butterfly.

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  • Weed Wisdom: What 10 Common Weeds Are Trying to Tell You – Gardenista

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    Listen up! Your weeds are trying to tell you something.

    Like all varieties of plants, individual weeds thrive in particular conditions. Some like it dry, others moist. Some prefer acidic soil, others thrive in more alkaline environments. Some will even tell you that your soil is perfect.

    So before you pluck and pull, take note. You can learn a lot about the growing conditions in your yard, based on which weeds are growing where. These 10 common weeds will reveal secrets about your soil:

    Plantains

    Above: Plantains can be your (ugly) medicinal friend; see more at First Aid Kit: 5 Essential Healing Plants. Photograph by Ernst Schütte via Wikimedia.

    Used in traditional medicine to make a poultice against stings, rashes, and insect bites, plantains are nonetheless unsightly in the lawn and garden. Their presence indicates low fertility and high acidity. They also thrive in poorly drained, compacted soil.

    The cure: To prevent plantains, correct the soil imbalance, aerate soil, and raise the level of your lawn mower so tall grass blades can shade plantain’s leaves.

    Crabgrass

    Digitaria sanguinalis (crabgrass). Photograph by Rasbak via Wikimedia.
    Above: Digitaria sanguinalis (crabgrass). Photograph by Rasbak via Wikimedia.

    Ever the opportunist, crabgrass thrives in both poor or very fertile soils, and will spring up in times of drought or excessive watering.

    The cure: To combat, raise the height of your mower to encourage “good” grass. Seed control also works with this annual: discourage germination by spreading cornmeal in the early spring.

    Ground Ivy

    Above: Photograph by Marie Viljoen, from Raid Your Lawn for Your New Favorite Herb: Ground Ivy.

    Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea), also known as “Creeping Charlie,” is an aggressive weed that can quickly consume an unhealthy lawn. It thrives in areas with poor drainage, low fertility and lots of shade.

    The cure: Ground ivy will take advantage of bald spots, so make sure your lawn and garden have a lush canopy (or mulch), and fertile, well-drained soil. A higher mowing height (from 2.5 to 3 inches) will also help.

    Annual Bluegrass

    Poa annua(bluegrass) photograph by Rasbak via Wikimedia.
    Above: Poa annua(bluegrass) photograph by Rasbak via Wikimedia.

    An abundance of annual bluegrass is an indication that your soil is fertile, but most likely compacted and over-watered and poorly drained.

    The cure: To combat, aerate and water less, raise your mower height, and prevent seeds from spreading by spreading a cornmeal gluten in spring.

    Chickweed

    Common Chickweed (Stellaria media); photograph by Hugo via Wikipedia Commons.
    Above: Common Chickweed (Stellaria media); photograph by Hugo via Wikipedia Commons.

    Got chickweed in your garden? Goods news. That means it’s highly fertile. But this spreading annual can also indicate poor drainage and too much watering as well as compacted soil. (Good thing they’re delicious to eat.)

    Dandelions

    Dandelions are welcome here; learn why at The Garden of Magical Childhood. Photograph by Kendra Wilson.
    Above: Dandelions are welcome here; learn why at The Garden of Magical Childhood. Photograph by Kendra Wilson.

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  • What Is Green Manure? Why, What, and How to Grow a Cover Crop for a Home Garden

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    There is a wonderful product to give your plants a growing boost. It takes time to work—about two to three months—but it doesn’t require too much effort, nor does it cost very much. For a small garden, you could spend less than 10 dollars. This easy and affordable way to improve your garden’s growth? Green manure. Sadly, it doesn’t come from green cows. In fact, it doesn’t come from any animal at all.

    What is green manure?

    Above: Red clover, valued for its ability to fix nitrogen, is a good candidate for green manure. Photograph by R.R. Smith via USDA.gov on Flickr.

    Green manure is essentially a cover crop, planted in late summer or early fall, that gets tilled back into the soil in spring. It generally consists of plants in the legume family (peas and beans) that improve soil nutrition and structure by fixing nitrogen and adding organic matter. When they are incorporated into the soil, they become an effective amendment.

    What are the advantages of using green manure?

    Above: At the one-acre rooftop Farm at the Javits Center, clover is grown as a cover crop to create a self-perpetuating food forest. Photograph by Valery Rizzo for Gardenista, from Garden Visit: Farming on the Roof in Hell’s Kitchen.

    Andrew Bunting, VP of Horticulture at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society explains: “Benefits include nutrient upcycling, weed suppression, adding organic matter, erosion control, help with soil fertility, and soil structure.” All of which, he says, “contributes to better water filtration, more pollinator habitats, and improved biodiversity. Certain legumes such as hairy vetch, field peas, white, red, and crimson clovers are also able to fix atmospheric nitrogen and make it available in the soil.”

    Why not just use compost?

    While compost certainly has its place in the garden, Bunting says green manure has an advantage. “Compost does not help with soil structure or weed suppression and bringing pollinators to the garden.”

    How to integrate green manure into your home garden?

    Hairy vetch, a common cover crop used for green manure. Photograph by Harry Rose via Flickr.
    Above: Hairy vetch, a common cover crop used for green manure. Photograph by Harry Rose via Flickr.

    Your local cooperative extension office can help you find the right plant for your use and your climate. Generally, green manure is sown off-season, in the late summer and early fall, with crops that can either overwinter or are winter-killed. Crops such as winter rye and hairy vetch are winter-hardy, whereas buckwheat and field peas are killed by the cold. The plants are allowed to grow for two to three months, then cut down before they go to seed, chopped up, and tilled back into the soil in early spring in time for growing season. Something to keep in mind, particularly if you live in a warmer climate with mild winters: the bed will be out of use for sowing plants until spring and at least one month after tilling.

    What plants make good green manure?

    Some good suggestions are legumes like crown vetch, hairy vetch, and clovers; grasses like winter rye and sorghum; and buckwheat—all of which germinate quickly. Want to wait a bit and sneak in another harvest? Plant some clover, which can germinate in temperatures as low as the 40s. Whichever you choose, make sure you read the instructions specifically for sowing as a cover crop. Seeds sown for cover crops are sown at a much higher rate than seeds sown for harvest. You want a thick carpet of plants.

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  • Shrubs for Shade: Our Favorite Flowering Shrubs for the Shade Garden

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    For the many gardeners whose growing-spaces are either entirely or partly shaded, shade-loving shrubs offer an important, permanent layer of interest alongside perennials and beneath trees. In small gardens, shrubs can create a structural framework for the space, seasonal focal points, a living wall or partition, or even a harvestable crop for a less-than-sunny kitchen garden. While any list of shrubs for shade can include worthwhile and non-invasive introduced species, planting natives (in this case, to North America) contributes towards resilience and supports sustainable growing practices.

    Our 13 favorite shrubs for shade span the year in terms of seasonal interest, from spring flowers to fall fruit.

    American hazel (Corylus americana)

    Above: A cluster of American hazelnuts in late summer.

    Hazelnut, filbert, cobnut—whatever you call the fruit of this large shrub, it will be yours to harvest if you plant your Corylus in semi-shade. (While hazel will grow beautifully leafy in full shade, it will bear fewer nuts.) One of the earliest shrubs to bloom in pre-spring, American hazel has slender flower structures with a tiny, burgundy male flower poised above the pendant female catkins. American hazel is hardy from USDA growing zones 4 to 9.

    Blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium and V. corymbosum)

    Above: Blueberries on a container-grown shrub.

    Highbush and lowbush blueberries have three seasons of serious interest: early spring flowers (an important food source for native bees), their famous summer fruit, and very vivid fall foliage. Blueberries require acidic soil—it’s non-negotiable—so if your garden’s in-ground soil tests near-neutral, they are better grown in containers, where you can adjust the pH more easily (personally, I use fresh—not spent—coffee grounds, mixed into the potting soil when planting.) Blueberries are hardy from USDA zones 3 (possibly 2, with protection) to 8.

    Bottlebrush buckeye (Aesculus parviflora)

    Above: The striking summer spires of bottlebrush buckeye.

    Bottlebrush buckeye’s elegantly upright racemes of white flowers are like summer fireworks. Blooming in mid to late summer, this large shrub fills the flowering gap between spring’s profusion and fall’s fruit and foliage. Hardy from USDA zones 4 to 8, bottlebrush buckeye will thrive in part to full shade.

    Canada rosebay, rhodora (Rhododendron canadense)

    Above: Canada rosebay blooms in late spring and early summer.

    In the wild, Canada rosebay, or rhodora (which is also the family name for all rhododendrons), flourishes in moist woodlands and at the edges of swamps and bogs. Its scented blooms appear in late spring to early summer. This is a shrub that needs plenty of water, and it also requires acidic soil. Canada rosebay grows in semi-shade or under the seasonal shade of deciduous trees. It is is very cold hardy, from USDA zones 2 to 6.

    A digression for botanical poetry:

    The Rhodora

    – 1834, by Ralph Waldo Emerson

    In May, when sea-winds pierced our solitudes,

    I found the fresh Rhodora in the woods,

    Spreading its leafless blooms in a damp nook,

    To please the desert and the sluggish brook.

    The purple petals fallen in the pool

    Made the black water with their beauty gay;

    Here might the red-bird come his plumes to cool,

    And court the flower that cheapens his array.

    Rhodora! if the sages ask thee why

    This charm is wasted on the earth and sky,

    Tell them, dear, that, if eyes were made for seeing,

    Then beauty is its own excuse for Being;

    Why thou wert there, O rival of the rose!

    I never thought to ask; I never knew;

    But in my simple ignorance suppose

    The self-same power that brought me there, brought you.

    Carolina allspice, strawberry bush, sweetshrub (Calycanthus floridus and C. occidentalis)

    Above: Calycanthus blooms from late spring through early summer.

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