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  • Hybrid, GMO, or Heirloom Seeds: Here’s What You Need to Know – Garden Therapy

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    No doubt you’ve heard the buzz about heirloom seeds. But what really is the difference between heirloom, hybrid, GMO, and other terms like open-pollinated when it comes to seeds?  Today, I want to demystify these terms so you can choose the right seeds for you and your garden. 

    Throughout my many years of seed-starting, I have learned numerous tips and tricks when it comes to growing a garden from seed. My garden begins each year with ordering seeds and getting them started indoors. In my book, Get Growing! Expert Seed-Starting for the DIY Gardener, I cover the foundations of seed-starting for indoor and outdoor plants.

    There are always so many options when it comes to seeds. You can end up like me, with more seeds than my garden could possibly hold. But every year, I always ensure I plant plenty of flowers, herbs, and vegetables from seed.

    Today, I wanted to share the answer to a question that seems to create a bunch of confusion, “What’s the deal with heirloom, hybrid, open-pollinated, GMO, and treated seeds?”

    Heirloom, Hybrid, and GMO Seeds: What the Heck are They?

    When it comes to seeds, it can be difficult to know where to start and easy to get mixed up about what terms like “hybrid” or “heirloom” actually mean. Once you understand the difference between heirloom, hybrid, and GMO seeds, you can go about choosing the type of seeds that are right for you, and avoiding the ones that aren’t.

    Chive seed heads growing in the garden

    What are Heirloom Seeds?

    After WWII and well into the 1970s, commercial vegetables dominated the market and older varieties were increasingly difficult to find. Most of today’s heirloom varieties were originally preserved from home gardeners and their family gardens. Heirloom vegetables can be classified as a plant that has been cultivated for more than 50 years.

    Heirloom seeds have been saved and passed on for many generations. The plant, flowers, and fruit remain true to the type of the original great-great-great-(insert 50 years here)-grandmother plant. The seeds retain the parent plant’s outstanding qualities, be it beauty, flavor, and yield, or disease, pest, and weather resistance.

    The plants themselves are open-pollinated and each characteristic of the parent plant passes down to the next generation. For many heirloom plants, isolation ensures that plants grown close together are not cross-pollinated. If harvested and stored properly, and free from any diseases, they should turn out exactly like the parent plant.

    Heirloom plants provide much diversity from the standard fare available in grocery stores or garden centers. There are many colorful and unique plant varieties, but beauty and diversity alone doesn’t define a heirloom.

    How Do I Get Heirloom Seeds?

    Some people are lucky enough to have heirloom seeds passed down from generations past. For the rest of us, however, we can purchase heirloom seeds from your local nursery, or online.

    Heirloom Vegetables in a barrow

    What are Hybrid Seeds?

    Hybrid seeds come from cross-pollinating strong characteristics of different varieties, making brand-spanking-new varieties. The plants produced can look and taste as good as heirlooms. They may even taste better, be more disease resistant, or be easier to grow.

    Hybrids make the widespread distribution of vegetables easier. They can offer better disease resistance, less labour-intensive growing, higher overall yields, uniformity, and easy harvesting. This all makes it more profitable for commercial growers.

    Hybrid seeds are bred in fields or greenhouses by cross-pollinating different varieties of plants to create desirable and interesting traits. Some of the results of the hybrids are better than the parents, and some are worse. Through plenty of experimentation and then many years of subsequent testing for control and reliability, new hybrids with amazing new features are born.

    Part art and part science, hybridization growers take the time to grow only the best possible plants for a successful harvest.

    Both heirloom and hybrid seeds can give you quality plants. Hybrids make for modern day success; heirlooms have stood the test of time.

    Nasturtium and flowers on a barn wall

    What are Open-Pollinated Seeds?

    All heirlooms are open-pollinated plants, but not all open-pollinated plants are heirlooms. Open pollination occurs from insects, wind, birds, and humans passing pollen from plant to plant. Both hybrid and heirloom seeds can reproduce through open pollination.

    When the plant is pollinated by a plant of the same variety, or through self-pollination, it is an heirloom plant. Any seeds from these plants hold their parent plant’s traits.

    When a plant cross pollinates with other varieties, it becomes a hybrid plant. Both can occur naturally or with the help of a human hand. But, any seeds saved from the hybrid plant will not carry the same traits as the parent plant.

    What are Organic Seeds?

    Organic seeds are seeds grown and saved using certified organic methods. It doesn’t mean that the seeds that are not organic are treated with pesticides or herbicides. It just means that the farms that produced the seeds had organic certification.

    Kale and Herbs in the sky

    What are GMO Seeds?

    First, let’s not confuse GMOs with hybrid seeds. GMOs, or Genetically Modified Organisms, are created through experimental biotechnology that, according to the Non-GMO Project, “merges DNA from different species, creating unstable combinations of plant, animal, bacterial and viral genes that cannot occur in nature or in traditional crossbreeding.”

    Currently, no seeds sold for home gardens are GMOs; those are created for commercial crops only. There isn’t a need to search for non-GMO labeling on seed packets for the home garden. Seeds meant for home as opposed to commercial use will not be genetically modified.

    What About Treated Seeds?

    Treated seeds come coated with an herbicide or pesticide to help prevent fungus and insect damage. They are often brightly dyed to indicate their treatment and labeled as “treated” on the packaging. I avoid using treated seeds as I do not want herbicides and pesticides in my garden.

    However, there are some coated seeds that are safe to use. Many tiny, modern seeds like marigolds or lettuce, can have a coloured coating that LOOKS like treated seeds, but aren’t. These seeds have something similar to a candy coating and are intended to help the gardener pick them up more easily. Refer to the seed’s packaging for confirmation about the type of coating on your seeds.

    seeds growing in a pack

    The Benefits of Growing Hybrid Seeds

    Hybrid seeds result from many years of breeding the perfect plant! Don’t think of mad scientists concocting unnatural plants; think of farmers and gardeners making special and strong varieties. Many farmers, seed companies, and even home gardeners spend years and many seasons cross-pollinating select plants in hopes that they created the perfect combination of genes.

    For example, you can combine one tomato plant known for producing a ton of fruit with another tomato variety known as more disease resistant. Traits you can look for include: easier to grow, quick growers, adaptable to their environment, bigger fruit, more fruit, disease resistance, and shelf life.

    You can combine hybrids until you have the combination of traits you are looking for. A staple for many farmers, hybrid plants become more dependable and fruitful each year. While you can’t save the seeds and get the guaranteed traits like an heirloom plant, you can reproduce hybrids through cuttings.

    edible flowers Garden Therapy seeds

    The Benefits of Growing Heirloom Seeds

    While hybrid plants have made grocery shopping easier, heirloom plants have many benefits for the home gardener. You can find a ton of new flavours, colours, and shapes when growing heirloom seeds. Their lack of uniformity can even mean different ripening times, for a harvest that lasts longer.

    If you have grown your heirloom seeds for a while, this means they work well in your geographical region. They are used to the weather, growing conditions, and have resistance to diseases and pests in your area.

    Lastly, you get to save a little piece of history. There is something so special about growing the same plant as perhaps your grandmother. Just like everything in the world, vegetable varieties can become extinct. We must work together to pass on heirloom seeds and their gene pool to the next generation.

    container with seedlings and soil markers

    Are Heirloom Seeds Illegal?

    When it comes to seed saving, things can get a little complicated. For the most part, the legality issues with saving seeds center around farmers. Many GMO and hybrid seeds are patented. This means that any farmers who grow the seeds must sign an agreement stating they will grow the seeds for only that year. The following year, they cannot save those same seeds and instead must purchase them again.

    In the EU, it is illegal to sell any vegetable cultivar that is not included in the national list. Many believe this to be a leading cause in the loss of many heritage varieties as it is difficult and expensive to get on the list. The US protects growing plants from divisions, cuttings, and seeds, and laws vary state by state.

    When it comes to heirloom plants, we enter a bit of a grey area. If you are not selling heirloom plants or their seeds, that is fine. In addition, many heirloom seeds have been around for generations, making them a part of public domain.

    tomato seeds grown from heirloom seeds in a jar

    The Cultural Significance of Seed Saving

    The legalities surrounding seed saving for farmers and other gardeners does impose on years of tradition. Before you could purchase commercial seeds, generations and gardens passed down seeds. It is a process that should still be honoured.

    When slave owners forced African people onto their ships, many of the women braided seeds into their hair in order to survive and bring their culture onward. Leah Penniman talked about this cultural significance in her book Farming While Black and I highly encourage you to read it. For many, continuing to grow their seeds is honouring their ancestors’ work and legacy.

    The WTO governs many rules surrounding seed saving, with many farmers in developing countries increasingly affected by the regulations. Restricting people’s access to seeds makes growing food inaccessible for many.

    As our population grows and biodiversity decreases, we need people to grow healthy, sustainable food more than ever. Swapping seeds and varieties with other farmers also helps to increase biodiversity. Saving seeds holds a significance culturally and environmentally that needs to be looked at before we accept that modern corporations control seed saving.

    More Posts About Growing and Planting Seeds:

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Strawberries in Containers

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    Growing strawberries in containers is the best way to enjoy this pretty, easy-to-grow berry. Learn how to do it the best way and get the biggest yield.

    When most people think of container gardening, flowers are often the first things that come to mind. Container gardening is becoming increasingly popular as an easy and inexpensive way to brighten up your space. In addition to flowers, this year try something different: strawberries in containers.

    Strawberries are one of the easiest plants to grow in containers. With strawberries, you get a plant with pretty foliage and flowers. Of course, you also get the added benefit of yummy fruit to snack on too!

    Different Types of Strawberries

    There are three main categories of strawberries: June-bearing, Everbearing, and Day-neutral. Each type is better suited for a specific container.

    Something to keep in mind is that when shopping for strawberries, the varieties will not always specify which category the strawberries will fall under. Ask the garden center associate to aid you in the category identification.

    Woman holding a heart-shaped strawberry attached to a vine

    June-Bearing Strawberries

    June-bearing strawberries produce a large, concentrated crop once a year during late spring or early summer (usually in June). They send out a lot of runners that can quickly become a tangle of vines.

    Because of this, June-bearing strawberries are better suited for a garden bed instead of a container.

    Everbearing Strawberries

    Everbearing strawberries’ fruiting season stretches from early spring until fall. They send out fewer runners and will not produce as much fruit as the June-bearing types.

    Although it will produce fewer berries, it’s enough for snacking and tastes better than any store-bought berries. This category does well in containers.

    Day-Neutral Strawberries

    Day-neutral is a newer variety of everbearing strawberries. They produce more consistently throughout the growing season. Day-neutral strawberries prefer cooler temperatures and will not bear fruit in hot weather. If you live in an area with hot summers, skip this category.

    home grown strawberries in containers freshly picked in a bowlTools Needed for Growing Strawberries

    When you grow strawberries in containers, you’ll have relatively few tools that you need. Plus, you already may have many of these at home! You’ll need to have:

    Type of Pots That Are Best For Growing Strawberries

    When selecting a container for strawberries, pick a pot that will be large enough: at least 8-12 inches wide.

    You may have noticed that strawberry pots look different from your standard plant pots. This is because strawberries have a spreading growth habit and shallow roots.

    For this reason, a specific strawberry pot is often the best place to grow your berry vines. A wide, shallow container is another good choice. Most importantly, the container must have good drainage.

    Lastly, select a pot that is light-colored; this will help keep the plant’s roots cool in the summer.

    close up of strawberries growing out of a pot

    Growing Strawberries in Containers

    Do strawberries do well in pots? Yes, and it may even be possible to grow strawberries indoors. However, you should be very careful and follow these tips to help them thrive.

    #1 Use the Correct Soil

    Strawberries prefer a loose, loamy soil with a pH between 5.3 and 6.5 (acidic). If you are unsure of what your potting soil’s pH is, it’s pretty easy to do a soil pH test at home. All you need is water, vinegar, and baking soda.

    #2 Give the Plants Plenty of Sunshine

    Next, you need to pick a spot that gives the plant lots of sunlight. Select an area that receives 6-8 hours of sun per day.

    #3 When to Plant Strawberries

    You can plant strawberries in the early spring or in the fall (if you live in a warm area). Strawberries are sensitive to the cold weather, so avoid frost if you can.

    Remember, day-neutral strawberries prefer the cold (just not too cold), and will not produce in a hot climate.

    #4 Spread Them Apart

    Your strawberry plants need to be spaced at least 2 ft apart, so only plant 1 or 2 plants per container. Remember, these plants like to spread out as they grow, so give them plenty of room.

    #5 Plant the Seeds in the Container

    Fill the container with a potting mix and make a small mound in the middle. Spread the roots out over the mound. Cover the roots and up to the crown with additional mix and water well.

    How to Care for Strawberries in Containers 

    woman holding three strawberries on the vine - one ripe and red, the other green

    Caring for strawberries in containers is different than caring for them when they are planted outside.

    #1 Water the Strawberries Frequently

    First of all, containers require frequent waterings, but only water when the soil is dry to the touch. You may have to water daily during hot weather. This is because containers dry out faster than soil in the ground.

    The challenge with a strawberry jar is that the shape of it can make getting the water properly saturated to the center of the pot a bit difficult. Without proper watering, your berries will have shallow roots that do not lend themselves to thriving plants.

    One fun trick I use is to employ a DIY watering tube that will help get direct the water to the middle of the pot where it’s needed to grow those juicy berries. I put together a post on Angie’s List showing how to make an easy DIY watering tube perfect for strawberries in containers.

    starwberry pot with diy irrigation system

    Additionally, make sure to feed your strawberries every 3-4 weeks with a liquid fertilizer.

    #2 Overwinter the Strawberries

    You can overwinter strawberries. They will produce better the following year if they are allowed to go dormant during the winter.

    If you live in an area that gets extremely cold, move your strawberry containers into an unheated garage or basement in the winter. Water the container only when the soil becomes dry. In milder winter climates, mulch up around the container and leave it until spring.

    You can read a bit about how to overwinter succulents in this post. It’s a similar concept.

    Do you have to replace strawberry plants?

    Strawberries are short-lived perennials. Even with the most dedicated care, you will have to replace the plants about every 3 years.

    No worries, though. Enjoy them for a season, then reevaluate. If you are able to get them to grow again for an additional summer, it will be well worth the effort.

    I’m a big fan of strawberries, as you may be able to tell from the list below! Here are posts for everything you need to know about these sweet berries from how to grow them to how to eat them!

     

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Garden to glam: practical style tips for the green-fingered goddess – Growing Family

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    Collaborative post

    For lots of gardeners, the garden is our sanctuary – a place where the chaos of family life fades into the background, replaced by the rhythmic snip of secateurs and the earthy scent of freshly turned soil. But let’s be honest: for a long time, the “gardening wardrobe” has been a bit of a disaster zone. We’ve all been there, pottering about in an oversized, paint-stained t-shirt and a pair of leggings that have seen better decades. While the scruffy look is functional, it doesn’t exactly make you feel like the powerful, creative goddess you are when you’re coaxing life from the earth.

    As we move into 2026, there’s a new movement taking root in the horticultural world. We’re calling it Garden to Glam. It’s the idea that you shouldn’t have to wait until you’ve showered and changed to feel stylish. With a few clever tweaks and some truly resilient materials, you can maintain a sense of personal flair even when you’re knee-deep in a flower bed or wrestling with a stubborn rose bush.

    a woman working in a garden

    The foundation: the modern gardening uniform

    The key to a stylish garden look is choosing high-quality natural fibres that breathe. Heavy denim can be restrictive when you’re bending and squatting, so many of us are switching to linen-blend overalls or cotton boilersuits. These offer full-body protection from scratches and stings but feel incredibly light and airy.

    Pair these with a wide-brimmed straw hat – not just for the effortless French-countryside aesthetic, but for the essential UV protection it provides for your face and neck. A pop of colour in your gardening gloves or a beautifully patterned apron can also lift your mood instantly. These items are the “workhorses” of your wardrobe, but they don’t have to be boring.

    Why your accessories shouldn’t have to retire

    One of the biggest hurdles to staying stylish in the garden has always been jewellery. We’ve been told for years to “strip off the sparklies” before heading outside, and for good reason. Soil is abrasive, sweat can corrode cheap alloys, and the garden hose can be a death sentence for traditional gold-plated items. The result? We spend half our lives looking bare, or risk ruining our favourite pieces.

    However, the technology behind modern accessories has changed the game. Many green-fingered women are now investing in waterproof jewellery that’s specifically designed to handle the real world. These pieces use advanced bonding processes (often involving stainless steel bases) that won’t tarnish, green, or lose their lustre when they come into contact with water, suncream, or the inevitable garden grime.

    This means you can keep your signature gold hoops or that delicate pendant on while you’re watering the tomatoes or potting up seedlings. There’s something incredibly empowering about catching a glimpse of a gold shimmer against the green of the leaves. It’s a reminder that you are a woman of style, even when you’re covered in dirt.

    a woman in a gardena woman in a garden

    From potting shed to patio: the quick pivot

    As a busy parent, your time in the garden is often interrupted. One minute you’re weeding the veg patch, the next you’re hosting an impromptu playdate or greeting a neighbour for a coffee on the patio. The “Garden to Glam” philosophy is all about the quick pivot.

    By wearing durable, tarnish-proof accessories, you’ve already done half the work. A quick wash of the hands, a flick of the hair, and perhaps a lightweight denim jacket thrown over your overalls, and you’re instantly presentable.

    Caring for your outdoor style

    To keep your garden-to-glam look at its best, follow these three simple rules:

    1. The hose-down rule: If your jewellery gets caked in mud or grit, don’t worry. Since it’s water-resistant, you can literally rinse it under the tap (or even the garden hose!) to bring back the shine. Just pat it dry with a soft cloth.
    2. Fabric choice: Stick to darker earthy tones or vibrant florals for your clothing. They hide the inevitable dirt smudges much better than whites or pastels.
    3. The accessory base: Choose “huggie” earrings or flat-back studs. They won’t get caught on branches or the straps of your sun hat, allowing you to move freely without snagging.

    The psychological bloom

    There’s a deep psychological link between how we dress and how we feel. When we wear things that make us feel beautiful, our confidence increases, and our stress levels can drop. Gardening is already a form of therapy, but adding a touch of personal style turns it into a full-blown ritual of self-love.

    Next time you head out to the shed, don’t reach for the “emergency” t-shirt at the back of the drawer. Choose an outfit that makes you feel great, keep your resilient accessories on, and embrace the dirt. You’re a gardening goddess, after all – it’s time you looked the part.

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    Catherine

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  • 10 Things Nobody Tells You About Narcissus – Gardenista

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    Nobody ever says “I should have planted fewer narcissus bulbs” when the flowers start blooming in springtime. With their cheery bobbing heads, these happy harbingers of spring lift your spirits when nothing else in the garden has yet dared to declare victory over winter.

    Narcissus—or do you say daffodil?—is one of the most familiar flowers in any garden or supermarket. I defy you to find one person who can’t identify a yellow narcissus (or even a white one). And yet there’s so much more to know. We could spend a week on jonquils alone! Let’s get started, with 10 things nobody tells you about Narcissus:

    1. Narcissus and daffodil are the same flower (despite what snobs say).

    Narcissus at Madresfield Court. Photograph by Kendra Wilson, from Garden Visit: Daffodil Days at Madresfield Court.
    Above: Narcissus at Madresfield Court. Photograph by Kendra Wilson, from Garden Visit: Daffodil Days at Madresfield Court.

    Daffodil is the common name of Narcissus (a Latin word), and therein lies the daffodil’s image problem. It sounds more highfalutin to invoke Latin. When snobs say they don’t like daffodils, what they may be trying to say is they don’t care for the looks of the big, yellow, common varieties of Narcissus sold in supermarkets. That unloved trumpet flower, by the way, is Narcissus pseudonarcissus.

    Read more on this topic in Order the World’s Best Narcissi Online: But Please, Don’t Call Them Daffodils.

    2. There are 40 different species of Narcissus—and thousands of varieties.

    Above: “The multi-headed Narcissus tazetta, a genus and species which includes the celebrated ‘Paperwhite’ cultivar, are stimulated into growth by heat and smoke. The Narcissus tazetta bulb is Mediterranean and the bulbs expect intense heat as well as bush fires,” writes Kendra. Good luck growing this flower outdoors. Photograph by Howard Sooley.

    Jonquils are also narcissi, in case you were wondering. Varieties of the species is Narcissus jonquilla are known for their small, delicate flowers and intense fragrance.

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  • Designing the Vegetable Garden: How to Make a Garden Map

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    If you have begun working on how to make a garden, you may feel a bit overwhelmed at the sheer amount of information, options, and how to keep track of it all. That’s where this garden map comes in handy! It’s a simple visual tool that will work for newbie gardeners and master gardeners alike.

    The first step in starting a vegetable garden, or any garden really, is to write out a plan. The plan can be anything from a few Post It notes on a seed catalog to a computerized garden map.

    I like to create something in between: a hand-drawn map of the garden beds with the planting plan. This garden map is a great tool to help you fully plan out your garden to maximize its space and get the best possible vegetable harvest.

    vegetable garden mapvegetable garden map

    Why Should I Use a Garden Map?

    If you have a vegetable garden, a garden map is a must each year. It will help you determine how many seeds and plants you will need and where you should plant each of them. It also will help you keep track of what you will be producing year round and allow you to group similar harvest seasons together.

    Typically, the vegetable garden needs to be planned out each year. Vegetables are annuals (for the most part) and when they reach maturity we eat them, so they need to be planted every year. Plus, each year our garden grows and changes and we need to keep up with it!

    There are so many factors to where, when, and how you plant the different vegetables, that a map is the best way to keep you on track. When to start seeds, whether or not to start them outdoors, when to transplant seedlings, good plant companions, and crop rotation are all things to think about when designing a garden plan.

    This is a good activity to do in late winter when you’ve got spring on the brain. I find it gets me in the gardening spirit while it is still snowy and cold outside. While it is great for vegetables, you can follow similar steps for a brand new garden or a major garden transformation. Here are the steps that I use for my mapping process.

    (If you need help building garden beds then start here instead.)

    Blank zoning map to use in an at-home gardenBlank zoning map to use in an at-home garden

    How to Make a Garden Map

    Ready to get started? I’ll walk you through each step so you can learn how to make a garden plan with ease!

    Map Out Your Garden Space

    Measure your vegetable garden and draw a garden map to scale 1″ representing 1′ in the garden. Draw in any obstacles that you will have to contend with like posts, irrigation heads, or other structures you need to work within the garden.

    Label north on the map and watch the sun over the course of a few days to get a sense of what the light will be like. Remember that the sun in the summer and fall will be in different positions in the sky. Trees will leaf out and create shade, buildings may create more or less shade as the sun moves.

    If this is your first year mapping your garden, make notes in a gardening journal throughout the year as to how the light will fall. Here is my garden helper coloring in the sun and shade while we plan over a coffee date.

    Child designing a map for gardeningChild designing a map for gardening

    Create Your Wish List

    Grab some seed catalogs and write down all of the vegetables, fruits, and herbs that you want to grow. Now, look up each of them in a seed catalog written for your area. You may find that some of your top choices are not even for sale in your area. Sadly, this is because not every veggie can grow in every climate. You will need to stick to what you can grow, so cross those off the list.

    Look at the number of days until harvest and do the math. Some vegetables need a really long growing season and if cool fall weather comes before the harvest date, you may never even taste the fruits of your labor. Think about requirements like plant size at maturity, spacing needs, and shade/sun requirements to further refine your list.

    You may also be able to have multiple crops in one season! There are some speedy spring vegetables to grow for early crops as well as vegetables that can be planted later in the season. Consider grouping these vegetables together to get multiple harvests from a single area in one season.

    The other thing I think about when creating my vegetable garden seed list is cost and availability of the vegetables. I choose heirloom seed varieties, rare colors, and expensive-to-buy produce to grow in my home garden.

    In the winter, I also like to take an inventory of the previous season’s harvest. I look at which vegetables did well and which ones did I wish I had more of. This way I can be sure my garden is even more successful the following year when I map it out. I also note which vegetables did not perform well and see whether or not I should try and grow them again or move them to a new location.

    West Coast Seeds Catalog for Garden PlanningWest Coast Seeds Catalog for Garden Planning

    Add Plants to Your Garden Map

    Use pencil so you can easily move plants to new spaces or add more. Our vegetable garden is a small area that has four planters, two on the ground and two in the sky in a vertical planting system. To determine what plants went into the beds I looked at the location and amount of shade. I planned for root vegetables and plants with deep roots in the two beds that are on the ground. Shallow rooted plants when in the upper planters. I also make sure to note vertical vegetables such as tomatoes or peas. They will need additional support and may eventually cause shade to lower growing plants later in the season.

    Finally, put pen to paper and mark the final location of your vegetables. This plan may change as the season goes by. Mark those changes, and anything that you noticed throughout the year right on your garden map. It will be a great starting point for next year, and a memento of your garden for years to come.

    Make sure you put your map somewhere for safe keeping. Make notes on what worked and what didn’t work so you can plan again better next year. Saving your map for future reference can be an immense help!

    vegetable garden plan with seed packetsvegetable garden plan with seed packets

    Garden Map Tips

    When mapping, I like to use square foot gardening. If you have uniquely-shaped garden beds like I do, then square foot planting will be a very helpful tool. Mark each square foot on the garden map, then you can determine how many plants of each type can go in each square. Some vegetables like cabbage and cauliflower require at least a square to themselves, but others like carrots can squeeze 12-16 plants into a square. There is a guide here for square foot planting.

    That being said, get creative with your space! As I mentioned earlier, I primarily grow my vegetables in pots and containers and my unique vertical garden. Don’t just think of traditional vegetable beds. Anyone can benefit from a garden map, especially those with small and uniquely shaped gardens.

    You may also want to consider crop rotation for your garden. Plants that belong to the same family tend to use the same nutrients in the soil. Planting the same vegetables year after year in the same area can deplete the soil. Similar plant families include alliums, Solanaceae, brassica, cucurbit, and legume families. When doing your planting research, make a note of what family it belongs to. Keeping your map is especially helpful in keeping track of crop rotation year after year.

    How to map your gardenHow to map your garden

    More Gardening Posts to Read

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Magic in Maidenhead: An English Garden That Glows in the Winter – Gardenista

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    When Sarah Pajwani and her family moved into their house near Maidenhead (an hour from London) in 2011, it was surrounded by an “overgrown field.” Having created a design rationale with the help of professional landscapers, Sarah set about filling her garden with plants of her choice, border by border. Despite her best efforts, in winter she would gaze out of the windows and still feel that there was nothing to look at.

    Now, every garden-facing room in the house frames a different aspect of the winter scene, and the house has a lot of windows. Dare we suggest that winter is the garden’s best season? We can report that Saint Timothee, as it is called, was the first garden of the year to be open for the National Garden Scheme and Sarah gave us a tour.

    Read on for 11 clever design ideas from Sarah to make the garden glow in the winter:

    Photography by Britt Willoughby Dyer, for Gardenista.

    1. Red Twig Dogwood

    A row of glowing red Cornus sanginea �216;Midwinter Fire�217; brings out the best in Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii. Famously vivid in spring, the euphorbia holds on to its structure and excellent leaf color in winter.
    Above: A row of glowing red Cornus sanginea ‘Midwinter Fire’ brings out the best in Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii. Famously vivid in spring, the euphorbia holds on to its structure and excellent leaf color in winter.

    Saint Timothee is a picture of 1930s gentility, with an Enid Blyton kind of name. Yet the garden is not in a time warp. Sarah uses colorful stems, scented shrubs (such as Lonicera fragrantissima, Viburnum x bodnantese ‘Dawn’, Sarcococca confusa), sparsely flowering trees (Prunus x subhirtella ‘Autumnalis’) as well as grasses mixed with evergreens to brighten the winter scene. Several paths and borders lead the eye from one of the inside windows, across the garden.

    2. Mixed Grasses

    Smoldering dogwood stems draw attention to the drama of super-sized pampas grass, flanking a pond.
    Above: Smoldering dogwood stems draw attention to the drama of super-sized pampas grass, flanking a pond.

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  • Dupont Circle lab helps everyone from hobbyists to nurseries clone their plants – WTOP News

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    A look inside the D.C. facility that’s building the “shovels and picks” for plant tissue culturing and teaching hobbyists how to grow their own plants in test tubes.

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    DC lab is helping everyone, from hobbyists to nurseries, clone their plants

    A lab that’s just a few floors above Dupont Circle Metro Station may be responsible for that favorite succulent or money tree in your home.

    WTOP went inside the facility that is building the “shovels and picks” for plant tissue culturing and teaching hobbyists how to grow their own plants in test tubes.

    “What tissue culture is, at its simplest, is we’re growing plants in sugar, instead of plants in soil,” said Yoni Kalin the CEO of Plant Cell Technology.

    Whether they propagate the plant in a nutrient rich gel or their new more efficient bio rector, it allows nurseries to clone their bestselling plants. All they need is that nutrient-rich compound and a little bit of light.

    “You go to a Home Depot, if you go to a Trader Joe’s, where do those plants come from? Fun fact, they’re all clones or a lot of them are clones,” Kalin said.

    This type of technology is also why we can get fresh fruit and vegetables out of season all year long.

    “When you eat blueberries in July, or you buy blueberries in September, they all taste the same. Why is that? Because they’re all clones,” Kalin said. “They’re all coming from the same mother plant.”

    It allows these producers to give grocery store shoppers roughly the same size, same flavor and same nutritional composition every time.

    “That’s the beauty of tissue culture,” Kalin said.

    He added that this technology, which has been around for decades can also save crops from being wiped out by pests, flood or other disaster. These tissue culture plants can act like an “cloud” backup for farmers.

    Beyond selling to professional nurseries, farms and research universities they also sell and provide education for hobbyists.

    It’s a mission to involve more and more people in this field of plant science. Hobbyists can get a starter kit for $120 and create their own tissue cultures of plants they found outside or even their favorite orchid or cactus.

    “If we can provide this tool to the masses. That means, hey, if somebody is a carnivorous plant lover, they’re going to focus on carnivorous plant conservation. If somebody is an orchid lover, they’re going to focus on orchid conservation,” Kalin said. “We’re caretakers of the earth species.”

    The small lab in Dupont Circle can be seen in videos across YouTube where they have dozens and dozens of videos explaining how to make their own tissue culturing lab equipment or focus on culturing specific plant species like peace lilies and even cannabis.

    “Back in 2019 and 2020, you’d go on YouTube, and you might see somebody talking about plant physiology on a whiteboard, but you wouldn’t be able to actually watch somebody in a lab subculturing a plant,” Kalin said.

    They also offer online or in-person master classes.

    “We have one customer who came to our class, and he had this vision of building a plant tissue culture lab. He showed us pictures of his lab, and now he’s one of the largest suppliers of clones in the industry,” Kalin said.

    “The house plants that you buy at Home Depot or plant shops that you buy and kill … We can teach you how to keep them alive, and we can teach you how to grow thousands of them.”

    WTOP went inside the facility that is building the “shovels and picks” for plant tissue culturing and teaching hobbyists how to grow their own plants in test tubes.
    (WTOP/Luke Lukert)

    WTOP/Luke Lukert

    researcher in plant lab
    A lab above the Dupont Circle Metro Station may be responsible for that favorite succulent or money tree in your home.
    (WTOP/Luke Lukert)

    WTOP/Luke Lukert

    Whether they propagate the plant in a nutrient rich gel or their new more efficient bio rector, it allows nurseries to clone their bestselling plants. All they need is that nutrient-rich compound and a little bit of light.
    Whether they propagate the plant in a nutrient rich gel or their new more efficient bio rector, it allows nurseries to clone their bestselling plants. All they need is that nutrient-rich compound and a little bit of light.
    (WTOP/Luke Lukert)

    WTOP/Luke Lukert

    This type of technology is also why we can get fresh fruit and vegetables out of season all year long.
    This type of technology is also why we can get fresh fruit and vegetables out of season all year long.
    (WTOP/Luke Lukert)

    WTOP/Luke Lukert

    It allows these producers to give grocery store shoppers roughly the same size, same flavor and same nutritional composition every time.
    It allows these producers to give grocery store shoppers roughly the same size, same flavor and same nutritional composition every time.
    (WTOP/Luke Lukert)

    WTOP/Luke Lukert

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  • 2026 garden trends shaping how we garden now – Growing Family

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    Our gardens mean more to us than ever. They’re no longer just a backdrop to summer barbecues or somewhere to hang the washing; they’ve become spaces for calm, connection, creativity and, increasingly, conscience. As we head into the next growing season, the 2026 gardening trends are all about working with nature rather than fighting it, and creating gardens that feel personal, practical and restorative.

    Curious about what’s next for your garden? These 2026 garden trends celebrate eco-conscious planting, indoor-outdoor living, statement houseplants and smart solutions for changing weather. Whether you’re refreshing borders or rethinking your whole space, this article is packed with realistic, inspiring ideas for modern gardens.

    2026 garden trends revealed

    These latest gardening trends reflect how we’re living now: busier lives, unpredictable weather, smaller spaces, and a real desire to nurture our families while treading more lightly on the planet. From climate-smart planting to nostalgic whimsy and flexible indoor-outdoor living, 2026 garden trends are reassuringly achievable, even if you’re juggling work, kids, and a never-ending to-do list. Let’s dig in.

    english garden lavenderenglish garden lavender

    Climate-smart gardening

    Climate-smart gardening is no longer a niche idea – it’s fast becoming essential. With hotter summers, sudden downpours and long dry spells now part of normal UK weather, choosing drought-tolerant plants and designing for water efficiency is one of the biggest trends in gardening for 2026. Mediterranean-style planting is thriving, with lavender, rosemary, salvias and euphorbia proving they can cope beautifully with less water and more sun.

    Beyond plant choice, we’re seeing a renewed focus on rainwater harvesting, permeable surfaces and mulching to lock moisture into the soil. Gravel gardens, bark chippings and organic compost all help reduce evaporation while improving soil health. It’s about being smarter, not stricter, creating gardens that look lush without demanding constant watering or guilt during hosepipe bans.

    bee on echinacea flowerbee on echinacea flower

    Wildlife-friendly planting

    Wildlife-friendly gardening continues to grow, and for good reason. More of us are choosing native species, pollinator-friendly plants and perennials that offer long-lasting food and shelter for bees, butterflies and birds. Think foxgloves, achillea, honeysuckle and native hedging – all beautiful, all beneficial.

    The big shift for 2026 gardening trends is seeing the garden as a mini ecosystem rather than a collection of individual plants. Layered planting, seed heads left for winter interest, and perennial borders that evolve year on year all support biodiversity. The joy is that these gardens feel alive. They’re full of movement, sound and colour, proving that beauty and environmental responsibility can happily coexist.

    plants in terracotta pots with rustic watering canplants in terracotta pots with rustic watering can

    Earthcore

    Earthcore is one of the most soulful garden trends emerging for 2026. It’s all about grounding ourselves in the natural world, using warm, earthy tones and tactile textures that make the garden feel calm and timeless. Weathered terracotta pots, stone ornaments and planting that blends into its surroundings help create that sense of quiet connection.

    Muted colour palettes dominate here – think soft greens, dusky browns, clay pinks and silvery foliage – alongside ornamental grasses and richly textured leaves. Furniture leans rustic: weathered wood, reclaimed sleepers, gravel paths underfoot, and willow panels for privacy. It’s understated, soothing and utterly comforting, the garden equivalent of a deep exhale.

    a hand holding soila hand holding soil

    Regenerative gardening

    Regenerative gardening goes a step beyond sustainability, focusing on actively healing the soil, storing carbon and encouraging nature to thrive. This is one of the most important gardening trends for 2026, especially as awareness grows around soil degradation and biodiversity loss.

    No-dig gardening is at the heart of this movement, protecting vital fungal networks that help plants access nutrients and water. Composting kitchen and garden waste enriches the soil naturally, while diverse planting supports healthier ecosystems. It’s slower, more thoughtful gardening, and wonderfully rewarding.

    cottage garden flower bordercottage garden flower border

    Nostalgic gardening

    Nostalgia is blooming again, bringing charm, colour and character back into our gardens. This trend embraces whimsy; think scalloped-edge containers, hand-painted pots and quirky sculptures that make you smile.

    Planting is romantic and sensory, creating a rich blend of colour, shape and scent. English roses, sweet peas, lavender and foxgloves feel timeless yet fresh, while cottage-style borders encourage wandering bees and daydreaming humans alike. It’s gardening with heart – slightly imperfect, deeply personal and joyfully expressive.

    modern container plants on a patiomodern container plants on a patio

    Small space gardening

    Not everyone has a sprawling plot, and thankfully the latest gardening trends fully embrace small space living. Containers, compact plant varieties and clever vertical planting allow even the tiniest patios or balconies to feel lush and layered.

    Layering bulbs in pots extends seasonal interest without taking up more room. Wall planters, tiered shelving and hanging baskets maximise height, while dwarf shrubs and patio fruit trees deliver impact without overwhelm. Small spaces can still be big on personality.

    outdoor furniture on a patiooutdoor furniture on a patio

    Outdoor living

    Outdoor living remains a key focus for trends in gardening as we continue to blur the lines between inside and out. Gardens are now places to relax, entertain and spend quality time with the kids, whatever the weather.

    Pergolas with adjustable louvre roofs, solid-roof gazebos and weatherproof seating help us use the garden year-round. Outdoor lighting, heaters, rugs and decorative ornaments add warmth and comfort, turning patios into true outdoor rooms. It’s about creating a space that works as hard as we do.

    Mini meadows

    Mini meadows are perfect for anyone wanting to boost biodiversity without sacrificing order. These pint-sized wildflower patches can transform corners, borders and even containers into buzzing sanctuaries for pollinators.

    Using native wildflowers and grasses, mini meadows offer a softer, more natural look while supporting local ecosystems. They’re low maintenance once established and bring movement, colour and life into overlooked spaces – proof that even small changes can have a big impact.

    grow sign in a greenhousegrow sign in a greenhouse

    Greenhouse revival

    Greenhouses are having a serious moment. With unpredictable weather becoming the norm, more gardeners are turning to greenhouses to extend the growing season and protect crops.

    What’s new for 2026 garden trends is the aesthetic upgrade. Greenhouses are now design features, with painted frames, decorative shelving, vintage-style accessories and even seating areas. Practical and pretty, they offer control, creativity and a calm retreat from the chaos of daily life.

    Tabletop veggies

    Tabletop vegetables are perfect for busy households and small gardens. Dwarf varieties of chillies, cucumbers, aubergines and tomatoes thrive in pots, while herbs and microgreens deliver quick, satisfying harvests.

    These compact edibles are ideal for patios, balconies and even sunny windowsills, making fresh food accessible and fun. They’re also brilliant for getting kids involved. Nothing beats the pride of eating something you’ve grown yourself.

    flower garden borderflower garden border

    Relaxed planting

    Relaxed planting embraces a slightly wild, natural look – less clipped, more carefree. Plants are allowed to self-seed, borders feel asymmetrical, and patchwork planting replaces rigid schemes.

    This approach respects the garden’s natural rhythm, creating spaces that evolve organically over time. It’s lower maintenance, more forgiving and is a perfect antidote to over-styled perfection.

    potted plants on a wooden patio tablepotted plants on a wooden patio table

    Indoor-outdoor plants

    As summers get hotter and winters milder, indoor-outdoor plants are becoming increasingly popular. Houseplants like citrus, pelargoniums, ficus and succulents can enjoy the outdoors in summer before coming back inside for winter protection.

    Meanwhile, outdoor container plants such as agapanthus, fuchsia, coleus, bay trees and tender grasses will happily swap locations with the seasons. This flexibility adds value and longevity to your plant collection while keeping spaces feeling fresh year-round.

    potted indoor plantspotted indoor plants

    Statement houseplants

    Statement houseplants are all about individuality. Rare and unusual varieties allow us to showcase personal style while enjoying the well-being benefits plants bring: improved air quality, reduced stress and a genuine mood boost.

    Look out for Monstera deliciosa,  Fiddle Leaf Fig, Alocasia zebrina, Philodendron pink princess, Ficus audrey and Calathea orbifolia. Used sparingly, these plants become living sculptures: bold, beautiful and endlessly conversation-worthy.

    Which of these 2026 garden trends have inspired you?

    The garden trends shaping 2026 reflect how we’re growing – as gardeners, parents and people who care deeply about our homes and the world around us. From climate-smart choices and wildlife-friendly planting to nostalgic charm and flexible living spaces, these gardening trends 2026 are practical, heartfelt and full of hope.

    The best part? You don’t need to do it all at once. Pick what resonates, experiment gently, and let your garden evolve alongside you. After all, the most important trend in gardening will always be creating a space that makes you feel happy, grounded and at home.

    More garden inspiration

    month by month garden planting calendarmonth by month garden planting calendar
    month by month garden plannermonth by month garden planner
    25 easy houseplants to grow25 easy houseplants to grow
    the best low maintenance plants for outdoor potsthe best low maintenance plants for outdoor pots
    easy flowers to grow from seedeasy flowers to grow from seed
    50 drought tolerant plants50 drought tolerant plants

    Pin for later: 2026 garden trends

    Curious about what’s next for your garden? These 2026 garden trends celebrate eco-conscious planting, indoor-outdoor living, statement houseplants and smart solutions for changing weather. Whether you’re refreshing borders or rethinking your whole space, this article is packed with realistic, inspiring ideas for modern gardens.Curious about what’s next for your garden? These 2026 garden trends celebrate eco-conscious planting, indoor-outdoor living, statement houseplants and smart solutions for changing weather. Whether you’re refreshing borders or rethinking your whole space, this article is packed with realistic, inspiring ideas for modern gardens.

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  • Ask the Expert: House Plant Journal’s Darryl Cheng on 6 Common Indoor Plant Pests – Gardenista

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    When I spotted a scale insect on a leaf of my Thai lime tree recently, I sighed. It’s only December; sometimes they show up only in March. We must coexist indoors for another five months. I had been led to peer closely at the tree’s leaves by a tell-tale spattering of sticky honeydew beneath one branch. Above it, two branches up, I found the culprit, the pale brown dome of a mature scale insect. Wondering what other indoor plant pests are vexing the houseplant community, and how they deal with them, I consulted Darryl Cheng, Toronto-based creator of The House Plant Journal and the author of two popular books on indoor plant parenting. Darryl’s meticulous approach to growing plants is at once accessible and realistic. His engineer’s perspective to plant care includes the encouraging maxim that having a green thumb “isn’t about luck, but about being observant.”

    Let’s observe. Here’s an alphabetical hit list of six of the most common indoor plant pests you may find feasting on your botanical babies: Aphids, fungus gnats, mealy bugs, scale, spider mites, and thrips—and how to deal with them.

    Photography by Darryl Cheng and Vincent Mounier.

    Above: Darryl Cheng’s second book is The New Plant Collector—The Next Adventure in Your Houseplant Journey (Abrams, 2024).

    Darryl points out that what many of us call indoor or houseplants “are in fact tropical foliage plants” (or subtropical in some cases, like my Thai limes). Understanding how to get them to thrive in our controlled indoor climates means approximating their natural growing conditions in terms of light, moisture, and temperature. Even then, over time, they will be visited by tiny creatures that feed on them and do damage: indoor plant pests. These insects and arachnids (spider mites have eight miniature legs) may travel indoors with an indoor-outdoor plant, or (very commonly) they arrive with a newly-acquired plant. They are part of the plant’s life. And while checking your leafy family members daily may seem like a chore, it is essential for their health and “also kind of therapeutic,” Darryl says. “Think of it as detailing your plant.”

    His philosophy for his own plants is that nature should be allowed to take its course. Indoor plant pests are tolerable at “the lowest level possible, as long as the plant is strong.” Here is how to keep that pest level low.

    Aphids

    Above: Aphids feeding on lime blossoms. Photograph by Vincent Mounier.

    I was a little jealous to learn that Darryl rarely, if ever, encounters aphids. This is likely because they are often an outdoor-indoor issue: In my case, these soft-bodied sap suckers travel indoors invisibly with our trees when we move them indoors for winter. While aphids are not hugely destructive, they can damage new growth if they remain unobserved for a while, as in my case, above. They can be spotted “when they congregate around the growth point of the plant,” Darryl notes.

    Aphid Control:

    • I deal with aphids by squishing them. Gross, but effective.
    • I also spray them with a mixture of water and dishwashing liquid (1/4 teaspoon in 16 fl oz/2 cups)l; the soapy coating smothers them.

    Fungus Gnats

    Above: A fungus gnat immobilized on a yellow sticky trap (dead leaf for scale). Photograph by Vincent Mounier.

    Many online plant forums are abuzz with questions about annoying, small flying insects. Like fruit flies, but different, say the worried houseplant owners. “Fungus gnats are opportunists,” says Darryl, who does not consider them damaging. They feed on fungus that grows in damp organic material, like potting soil or bark chips. Major larval infestations may damage plant roots if no fungus is available. And while I interpret their presence as a timely warning that my potting media for citrus trees is too damp—meaning that I am watering too often—Darryl makes the point that some plants, “like maidenhair ferns,” should remain moist. So the presence of fungus gnats does not necessarily mean that there is problem: “It depends on the plant,” he says, and an understanding of the different conditions that particular plants require to flourish.

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  • The Year in Gardening: Looking Back With Joy (and Looking Ahead With Hope) – Gardenista

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    This is part of a series with Perfect Earth Project, a nonprofit dedicated to toxic-free, ecological gardening, on how you can be more sustainable in your landscapes at home.  

     . . . Do not raise
    your small voice against it. And do not 
    take cover. Instead, curl your toes
    into the grass, watch the cloud
    ascending from your lips. Walk
    through the garden’s dormant splendor.
    Say only, thank you.
    Thank you.
    —Ross Gay, Thank You 

    Even for the most optimistic of us, it can be hard to stay positive these days. But hope, it is “the thing with feathers,” and there are moments that can make us soar with joy, propelling us forward: the successful bans on pesticides like neonicotinoids; the sweet burst of a juneberry still warm from the sun; the return of the whooping crane after it teetered on the cusp of extinction. We asked a selection of our ecological gardening friends to share what keeps them going—plus one small thing we can all do in our yards next year to keep the momentum going. 

    Jeff Lorenz and Kayla Fell of Refugia:

    Above: The fluffy seedheads of the grass Andropogon ternarius ‘Black Mountain’ almost glow in the winter light along with the red branches of the red-twig dogwood (Cornus sericea) & ‘Shenandoah’ switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) in the background and dense blazing star (Liatris spicata) in foreground. Photograph courtesy of Refugia.

    “At this time of year, we are enamored by the stories laid bare in the landscape. Perennials that are left standing through winter are permeated with narrative: tales of shelter and sustenance, dynamic encounters of fullness and decay. While seemingly silent, they are instead performing amazing feats of survival and renewal out of sight—just like us!—silvery-white seed tufts, seedheads glittering with frost. Winter celebrates delicate details that we often miss during the showier exuberant summer months.  

    “One simple thing that everyone can do to make a difference this year is to talk to their neighbors: Gift a plant when dividing perennials, add educational signage that speaks to the jobs your garden is heroically doing (habitat! stormwater!), and label plants for curious gardeners-to-be passing by. We are not defined by the division seemingly sown around us! Instead, we can inspire others. Connectivity for plants, wildlife, insects, and people is the most powerful tool we have. Don’t be surprised to find your lawn-loving neighbor carving off a sliver to plant milkweed and coneflowers next summer, and then some.“

    Uli Lorimer, Director of Horticulture at Native Plant Trust:

    Above: Photo: Hummingbird clearwing moth visits a wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa). This beautiful perennial also attracts birds, including hummingbirds, and butterflies. Photograph by Uli Lorimer.

    “December is a time of reflection as we look back on the growing season past and ponder what the upcoming season may have in store. I want to zero in on a single image that embodies what ecological horticulture means to me and why practicing its tenets gives me hope for the future. The pink firework blossoms of Monarda fistulosa reliably draw hummingbird clearwing moths to the garden, and this image I find absolutely magical. So many things lie behind the picture of a moth captured mid-air with its proboscis curled. The garden provides an appropriate host plant for the larval stage. The plants were grown and managed without pesticides, ensuring the moth isn’t harmed in its pursuit of food. Lastly, this image is a source of wonder and awe, helping me feel connected to this place and motivated to keep my eyes and heart open. So many moments in nature are ephemeral, but mystery, spirit, and magic abound when we slow down to watch. My spirit can’t wait to see what magic awaits next year.”

    Richard Hayden, Senior Director of Horticulture at the High Line:

    Above: Jasper at the Turtle Pond in New York City’s Central Park. Photograph by Richard Hayden.

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  • Doing these fall garden chores will make your spring easier

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    We tend to think that fall is when the garden winds down, and spring is when the work begins. But there are several chores that, if completed now, will make your spring job much easier.

    For starters, pulling up weeds by their roots in the fall will dramatically reduce their reappearance when the weather warms up again. I’m practically addicted to a long-handled tool called Grampa’s Weeder, which makes easy work of the task.

    While you’re at it, thoroughly rake beds and borders where fungus, black spot or mildew diseases emerged this year. This will help prevent the pathogens from taking hold in the soil and infecting next year’s plants. Dispose of the leaves and debris in the trash.

    Other disease-preventing measures include removing shriveled, “mummified” fruit from tree branches, and disinfecting tomato cages and plant stakes before storing (use a solution made of 1 part bleach and 9 parts water, or spray with a household disinfectant spray and allow to air dry.)

    Clean, sharpen and oil tools now so they’ll be ready when you are. There’s little worse than heading out to plant your new seedlings only to find your spade has rusted over the winter.

    Protect your trees and property

    If you planted new fruit trees this year, install protective guards around them to prevent mouse and rabbit damage. I’m partial to coiled-plastic trunk wraps, but mesh, wire and higher-end metal tree surrounds are also highly effective.

    For safety’s sake, examine tree branches now, and remove any that are split, dead or broken, lest they rip off during winter storms and threaten people and property.

    Prepare for new beds

    If you’re planning to start new beds next year, save yourself the back-breaking labor of digging up the lawn (or the money spent on renting a sod cutter) by smothering the grass over winter.

    Define the future bed and cover the area with large pieces of cardboard or thick layers of newspaper, using landscape staples or rocks to hold it in place. Then, cover it with a few inches of mulch or compost.

    The cardboard may be entirely decomposed by spring, but if not, just leave it in place and dig planting holes right through it.

    Clear out the old beds

    Clear out spent vegetable beds, then lightly turn the soil, incorporating compost, well-rotted manure and, if indicated by a low pH test result, lime. The amendments will work their way deeply into the soil by spring, enriching the root zone to give next year’s crops a natural, nutritional boost.

    And for an early-spring gift to yourself, don’t forget to get flower bulbs (and garlic!) into the ground. The longer you wait, the bigger the risk of delayed blooms, but you can keep planting them as long as the soil is soft enough to dig.

    ___

    Jessica Damiano writes weekly gardening columns for the AP and publishes the award-winning Weekly Dirt Newsletter. You can sign up here for weekly gardening tips and advice.

    ___

    For more AP gardening stories, go to https://apnews.com/hub/gardening.

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  • From gowns to pantsuits, Michelle Obama explains her iconic fashion picks in a new book, ‘The Look’

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    WASHINGTON (AP) — On any day during her eight years as first lady of the United States, Michelle Obama said she could go from giving a speech to meeting with a counterpart from another country to digging in her vegetable garden with groups of schoolchildren.

    And her clothes had to be ready for that. There was too much else to do, including raising daughters Sasha and Malia, and she said she did not have time to obsess over what she was wearing.

    “I was concerned about, ‘Can I hug somebody in it? Will it get dirty?’” she said Wednesday night during a moderated conversation about her style choices dating to growing up on the South Side of Chicago to when she found herself in the national spotlight as the first Black woman to be first lady. “I was the kind of first lady that there was no telling what I would do.”

    Obama would become one of the most-watched women in the world, for what she said and did, but also for what she wore. She chronicled her fashion, hair and makeup journey in her newest book, “The Look,” written with her longtime stylist Meredith Koop and published earlier this month.

    The sold-out conversation was taped as part of “IMO: THE LOOK,” a special, six-part companion series to the IMO podcast she hosts with her brother, Craig Robinson.

    She wanted her clothes to be welcoming as well as versatile.

    “The thing about clothes that I find is that they can welcome people in or they can keep people away, and if you’re so put together and so precious and things are so crisp and the pin is so big, you know, it can just tell people, ‘Don’t touch me,’” she said.

    She said she would not wear white to events with rope lines in case someone wanted a hug.

    “I’m not going to push somebody away when they need something from me, and I’m not going to let the clothes get in the way of that,” Obama said.

    Here’s what she said about a few of her notable fashion choices:

    The gown for Obama’s first inauguration

    President Barack Obama and first lady Michelle Obama dance at the Obama Home States Inaugural Ball in Washington, Jan. 20, 2009. (AP Photo/Charlie Neibergall, File)

    The white, one-shoulder chiffon gown was designed by Jason Wu, then an unknown 26-year-old who was born in Taiwan. But when she stepped out at the inaugural ball wearing the gown, the moment changed Wu’s life. That was by design, she said.

    “We were beginning to realize everything we did sent a message,” Obama said, speaking of herself and her husband, former President Barack Obama. “So that’s what we were trying to do with the choices we made, to change lives.”

    She would continue to help launch the careers of other up-and-coming designers by wearing their creations.

    Chain mail state dinner gown

    President Barack Obama and first lady Michelle Obama wait at North Portico of the White House to greet Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi and his wife Agnese Landini, for a State Dinner, Oct. 18, 2016. (AP Photo/Manuel Balce Ceneta, File)

    President Barack Obama and first lady Michelle Obama wait at North Portico of the White House to greet Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi and his wife Agnese Landini, for a State Dinner, Oct. 18, 2016. (AP Photo/Manuel Balce Ceneta, File)

    Obama wore the rose gold gown by Versace for the Obama administration’s final state dinner, for Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi in October 2016.

    “So that was a kind of a, ‘I don’t care’ dress,” she said of the shimmery, one-armed gown.

    “I put that on. I was like, ‘This is sexy.’ It’s the last one,” she said, meaning their final state dinner. “All of my choices, ultimately, are what is beautiful — and what looks beautiful on.”

    Pantsuit worn to Joe Biden’s inauguration

    Former President Barack Obama and former first lady Michelle Obama arrive to attend the 59th Presidential Inauguration at the U.S. Capitol in Washington, Jan. 20, 2021, as Joe Biden was sworn in as the 46th president of the U.S. and Kamala Harris became the first woman vice president. (Jonathan Ernst/Pool Photo via AP, File)

    Former President Barack Obama and former first lady Michelle Obama arrive to attend the 59th Presidential Inauguration at the U.S. Capitol in Washington, Jan. 20, 2021, as Joe Biden was sworn in as the 46th president of the U.S. and Kamala Harris became the first woman vice president. (Jonathan Ernst/Pool Photo via AP, File)

    “I was really in practical mode,” Obama said, explaining why she chose the maroon ensemble by Sergio Hudson with a flowing, floor-length coat that she wore unbuttoned, exposing the belt around her waist with a big, round gold-toned buckle. Her boots had a low heel.

    “The sitting president was trying to convince us that Jan. 6 was just a peaceful protest,” she said.

    The inauguration ceremony at the Capitol was held two weeks after the Jan. 6, 2021, riot there by supporters of President Donald Trump who had sought to overturn Biden’s victory.

    She said she had been thinking about the possibility of having to run if something else had happened that day.

    “I wanted to be able to move. I wanted to be ready,” she said. But she and her team “had no idea” the outfit “was going to break the internet,” she said.

    White House East Wing

    Obama also spoke about the East Wing, the traditional base of operations for first ladies that Trump last month tore down to make room for a ballroom he had long desired.

    Former first lady Michelle Obama speaks about her new book "The Look" during an event at Sixth and I, Wednesday, Nov. 12, 2025, in Washington. (AP Photo/Allison Robbert)

    Former first lady Michelle Obama speaks about her new book “The Look” during an event at Sixth and I, Wednesday, Nov. 12, 2025, in Washington. (AP Photo/Allison Robbert)

    Obama described the East Wing as a joyful place that she remembers as full of apples, children, puppies and laughter, in contrast to the West Wing, which dealt with “horrible things.” It was where she worked on various initiatives that ranged from combating childhood obesity to rallying the country around military families to encouraging developing countries to let girls go to school.

    She said she and her husband never thought of the White House as “our house.” They saw themselves more as caretakers, and there was work to do in the mansion.

    “But every president has the right to do what they want in that house, so that’s why we’ve got to be clear on who we let in,” Obama said.

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  • Want to Know WHEN to Prune? This Will Answer All of Your Questions! – Garden Therapy

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    Learning when to prune can be confusing when there are different rules for many different plants, and even differing rules that vary by cultivar! This guide takes away all of that confusion by looking at the basics of how plants grow and using that as your foundation. With just a bit of logic, you can take these basics and apply them to most of the jobs in the home garden.

    Today, we’re covering the question, “When Should I Prune (…)?” If you would like to know HOW to prune, please click over to Learn How to Prune like a Pro! Pruning 101.

    There is a “best” time to prune various plants, and it’s not always the same. If you are trying to decide when to prune a particular plant in your yard, I suggest you look up your plant’s particular pruning guidelines in a garden book or online.

    If you are looking for a guide that you can use throughout the year to help you know what and when to prune with your specific garden in mind, then you will look at your grouping of garden plants as workers and decide where they are putting their energy. Let me explain!

    A Plant’s Yearly Lifecycle

    Plants, big or small, live their lives working towards the same goal: to grow to mature height, set fruit, then set seeds and continue the species. That’s their job.

    Think about plants doing their job in terms of energy.

    In spring, the plant’s energy is in the soil, moving its way up through the trunk and branches and forcing life in new growth. In summer, the energy exists in the trunk, branches, leaves, and flowers as it works to produce fruit. In the fall, the energy gives the tree a final push to set seeds, then drop leaves and head back down to the roots. In winter, the energy is stored in the roots, while what is above ground faces winter cold.

    Preparing a Garden for WinterPreparing a Garden for Winter
    The same Japanese Maple as above, but in the winter!

    A Deciduous Example

    Let’s use an unnamed deciduous tree as an example. This particular tree is dormant in the winter. In spring, it buds and leafs out. It sets flowers and fruit in summer and ripens to seed. The seeds are planted elsewhere by squirrels caching food for the winter. And in the fall, the plant drops its leaves to prepare for energy-saving winter dormancy again.

    Now, think of what response this plant will have to pruning based on where it is putting its energy.

    • In winter dormancy, the plant’s energy is stored below the surface in the roots. Pruning branches at this time will result in less space above the ground for all the energy stored in the roots, therefore, it will encourage vigorous new spring growth.
    • In the spring, when the flower buds and leaves are forming, pruning could cut off new buds and reduce or eliminate flowering for that year.
    • In the summer, after flowering and before fruiting, pruning off some of the flowering branches will direct the plant’s energy into the remaining fruit, making them more robust.
    • In the fall, when the fruit has turned to seed and the tree is losing its leaves, pruning reduces the amount of energy held in the branches, sending less down to the roots for winter dormancy.

    Now, of course, not all plants flower, fruit, set seeds, or go dormant at the same time of year. Some flower in the fall and fruit in the winter, others flower in winter and go dormant in the summer. And some plants skip various stages or go semi-dormant, like certain evergreens. Regardless, you can still think of where the energy is when pruning as a guide for when to prune.

    Cornus kousa 'Miss Satomi'Cornus kousa 'Miss Satomi'
    Cornus kousa ‘Miss Satomi’

    When To Prune: How Pruning Affects Plants at Different Stages

    • Pruning during dormancy results in enthusiastic growth after dormancy. This can be good for plants requiring invigoration, but bad for trees that will send up a bunch of unsightly water sprouts with all that extra energy coming from the roots in spring.
    • Pruning before buds form can increase the vigour of deciduous suckering shrubs and roses.
    • Pruning after buds form can eliminate flowering, which is good for invasive plants but bad for ornamentals.
    • Pruning after flowering is a good way to manage the overall shape and size of ornamental plants. It can also encourage bigger, sweeter fruit, which is great for fruit trees.
    • Pruning after fruiting is good for setting the stage for the next year. The plant’s energy is now in its mature stage above ground, and cutting off the branches at this stage will not encourage more growth to be sent to replace them.
    • Pruning after the fruit sets seed can be stressful for the plant because it has worked tirelessly to do its job and is now it is at its lowest point of energy. It can also encourage disease, as the plant will be slow to heal.
    • Pruning coniferous evergreens can be done at any time of the year, but the best time to prune them is in the cooler weather when the sap is less likely to cause a mess in the garden. Sap flows steadily in the spring as the weather warms up.
    • Pruning in the summer or during dry spells can be beneficial if your plants are prone to disease. Warm, dry summer weather is less likely to spread diseases than wet weather.
    • Pruning deciduous plants in winter is convenient, as you can more easily see the structure.

    Thinking about when to prune in this way has greatly helped me in my quest to garden in a way that supports proper plant growth. It helps me to work with the plants and not against them, ensuring that they are healthy and well-loved, and most importantly, requiring less maintenance.

    If you have any tips, ideas, questions, or notes to share, please add them to the comments section. We can never have too much pruning help from wise gardeners!

    Pruning FAQ

    Is there a best time of day to prune?

    It would be similar thinking to the time of year. When will it cause the least stress to the plant? First thing in the morning, before the heat of the day, would be my choice. But I also choose based on the most efficient time for me to do it correctly.

    Is there a wrong time to prune?

    You never want to prune when the plant is under stress, unless you’re removing diseased, pest-ridden, dead, or damaged branches (as pruning can be how you SAVE your plant in this instance).

    Make sure the plant is hydrated and the weather conditions are good. For instance, you might not want to prune if there’s going to be extreme cold, or on the opposite end, a large heat wave.

    You also want to avoid pruning before the tree blooms, as you’ll remove the chance for new buds, flowers, and fruits.

    More Helpful Tips on Pruning

     

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Transform fallen leaves into valuable leaf mold for your garden this fall

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    There are a lot of leaves outside my window, and I’m guessing your view might be similar. This carpet of dead foliage is often viewed as a nuisance, but it can be an important component in the garden.

    I’ll push a 3-inch (7.6-centimeter) layer of them into beds and borders to serve as root-protecting and insect-sheltering winter mulch. When they decompose, they’ll also add nutrients to the soil, which will fortify my plants in spring.

    Others will make it into the compost pile, which, along with food scraps, weeds and spent annuals and perennials, will cook into what we gardeners call “black gold.” But there’s another use for fallen leaves that might have escaped your notice: leaf mold.

    The benefits of leaf mold

    Simpler than compost but similarly beneficial, leaf mold contains only one ingredient — leaves. It helps increase moisture retention in sandy soil, improve drainage in clay soil, regulate soil temperature and suppress weeds when applied over the soil in beds and borders.

    As far as nutrients go, compost wins, but leaf mold is no slacker. It supports earthworms, beneficial insects and soil microbes, and boosts the health and vigor of plants.

    Nearly any type of leaves can be used to make leaf mold. Smaller ones, like beech and maple, break down in just a few months, whereas larger, thicker leaves, like those of oak, can take as long as two years.

    Avoid using black walnut leaves, which contain a chemical called juglone that is toxic to some plants. Although fully composted black walnut leaves are generally safe to use, the compound might persist in leaf mold, which doesn’t age as long.

    How to make leaf mold

    Before making leaf mold, you’ll have to decide where to contain it. You can enclose leaves in a chicken-wire surround, pile them into contractor-grade, black plastic trash bags in which you’ve poked a bunch of holes for air circulation, or place them in an ordinary compost bin.

    Regardless, add leaves lasagna-style, alternating with a sprinkling of water and, optionally, a light application of nitrogen fertilizer, which serves to speed up the process (ordinary lawn fertilizer will do).

    Check the leaf pile every couple of weeks and water as needed to keep it lightly moist.

    In spring, it should resemble humus, the dark, crumbly, nutrient-rich organic matter that serves as a protective layer on the forest floor.

    Spread your leaf mold throughout your beds and borders as you would mulch or compost, and add some into the potting mix in your containers. It will release nutrients into the soil that will benefit your plants throughout the growing season.

    ___

    Jessica Damiano writes weekly gardening columns for the AP and publishes the award-winning Weekly Dirt Newsletter. You can sign up here for weekly gardening tips and advice.

    ___

    For more AP gardening stories, go to https://apnews.com/hub/gardening.

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  • Giant Northern California corn maze lets visitors enjoy getting lost

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    DIXON, Calif. (AP) — The owners of a giant Northern California corn maze once crowned the world’s largest want visitors to remember that there is fun in getting lost.

    “It is confusing. It’s exciting, and in a world of GPS and constant signage, you always know where you are, where you’re going,” said Tayler Cooley, whose family owns Cool Patch Pumpkins. “When you’re in the corn, everything looks the same until you pop up on a bridge and you’re like, ‘Oh wait, I’m all the way over here. I thought I was over there.’”

    The pumpkin patch and corn maze along Interstate 80 between Sacramento and San Francisco are open once again for the fall season through Halloween. Back in 2007 and again in 2014, Cool Patch Pumpkins earned a spot in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world’s largest corn maze.

    The maze — spread out over 40 acres (16.2 hectares) — typically takes at least 45 minutes to complete and features five different bridges that allow maze-goers to rise above the stalks. It is also known for the elaborate designs the team creates in the maze that can be seen from overhead. This year’s maze celebrates farmers. Previous seasons honored veterans and first responders with giant murals included in the maze design.

    “Everything is done by hand,” Cooley said. “We want to communicate something fun and exciting, and then we build our pathways around that.”

    On a recent afternoon, visitors from near and far wound their way through the maze.

    “I have no sense of direction, and we could spend all day here. That’s fine. We have water. We’ll survive, three days,” said Ryan Moore, who was visiting from Hawaii.

    Likewise, Shelley Tang from Redwood City, California, joked there is always corn to eat if they get lost.

    “My children have a better sense of direction than me, so I’ll be following them,” she said.

    A corn maze in Quebec, Canada, as well as those in Minnesota and Illinois, also boast record-breaking mazes, either by acreage or mileage.

    Beyond the maze, Cool Patch features a corn bath for toddlers full of 150,000 pounds (68 kilograms) of dried corn.

    ___

    This story has been corrected to show that Cooley’s first name is spelled Tayler, not Taylor, to show that Tang’s first name is spelled Shelley, not Shelly, and to remove the incorrect pronoun “his” in the fourth paragraph. It also clarifies that Cooley is part of the family that owns Cool Patch Pumpkins, not the sole owner.

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  • Blue Cardinal Flower: How to Grow Lobelia, a Native Perennial

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    Lobelia siphilitica, Blue Cardinal Flower

    Blue cardinal flower, also known as great blue lobelia,  is a tall native perennial that blooms for long weeks at the end of summer. Like its striking cousin, the red cardinal flower, this lobelia relishes plenty of water and is happy growing in full-sun rain gardens, bogs, and damp meadows. But it will also grow successfully without supplemental water in semi-shaded flower borders if its roots remain cool and mulched. Blue cardinal flower brings vertical interest to the garden and is a vividly blue counterpoint to the colors of late summer and early autumn.

    Above: The spires of blue cardinal flower can grow up to four feet tall.
    Above: An illustration of blue cardinal flower from William Barton’s Vegetable Materia Medica of the United States (circa 1825).

    Lobelia siphilitica’s species name is derived from one of its many Native American uses as a treatment for syphilis (in conjunction with other toxic-slash-medicinal ingredients like cherry and May apple—don’t try this at home).

    Above: Blue cardinal flower with a late summer tangle of obedient plant, ageratum, and rudbeckia.
    Above: In the middle of a border, the tall spikes of blue cardinal flower hold their own with grasses and asters.
    Above: Blue cardinal flowers support a wide range of native bees and butterflies.

    Cheat Sheet

    • Blue cardinal flower is native to eastern North America.
    • It is a member of the bell flower (Campanulaceae) family.
    • The species name of siphilitica is derived from an historical use of the plant in the treatment of venereal diseases.
    • Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds feed on the flowers’ nectar.
    • Lobelias produce a toxic compound called lobeline, which makes them less palatable to deer.
    Above: Blue cardinal flower appreciates afternoon shade where summers are hot.

    Keep It Alive

    • Blue cardinal flower is hardy from USDA growing zones 4 to 9.
    • Plant its seeds or seedlings in rich soil with plenty of organic matter.
    • It thrives in damp soil and wet edges of ponds, rain gardens, or streams.
    • Plant in full sun only in cooler climates.
    • Where summers are hotter, plant blue cardinal flowers where it will grow in afternoon shade.

    See also:

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  • Check Out These Cool Characters! The Top Winter Garden Plants

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    Winter doesn’t mean it has to be all white in the garden. Even if there is a blanket of snow covering the soil, these winter garden ideas will add some pizzazz to cold and dreary days with their showy limbs, bright berries, and even some flowers! Here are some ideas for winter garden plants and when to get started planting them.

    While I am blessed with the fortune of a mild Vancouver winter, I know there are much colder places that have difficulty in finding beauty in the winter. From all the deciduous trees losing their leaves and flowers hiding away for the cold months, things can start to look a little brown before things turn white.

    Adding winter garden flowers and plants to your yard ensures that you get some beautiful colour even in the dead of winter. When planning your garden, try to remember to add some winter interest as well!

    Where to Start with Winter Garden Plants

    A tall evergreen tree or shrub in the corner of your garden is a good starting point. Then you’ll also want to include lower evergreens that stay above the snow.

    Some winter garden plants have interesting bark once their leaves are gone for the winter, others have berries and flowers.

    It’s all about getting a nice mix of greenery for every season out there.

    rhododendron bud in snowrhododendron bud in snow

    When to Plant a Winter Garden

    If you’re thinking about winter garden ideas, then chances are things are starting to cool down where you live. Don’t panic at the thought of losing all your summer lovelies. They’ll be back next year! For now, you can turn your attention to planting some perennials for the winter.

    Fall is actually a great time of year to plant perennials. First of all, they’re all on sale at the garden centre (booyah!) and they’re also going to have a couple of seasons to establish before the hot summer sun beats down on them.

    The key is to make sure you plant approximately 6 weeks before the first frost or when the ground completely freezes. Your perennial needs time to establish roots in order to make it through the winter. You can learn more about fall perennial gardening here.

    Keep in mind, young perennials may take a few years before they have their first blooms. So before planting, make sure to do your research on each individual plant so you know what to expect and what kind of conditions they prefer.

    6 Winter Garden Plants That Stay Green All Winter

    1. Emerald Colonnade Holly

    This beautiful evergreen makes a great topiary planting. Its regal shape responds well to pruning and it thrives in a container environment. In the ground, it’s also suitably planted as a hedge. This male holly won’t get berries, but it will stay evergreen all year.

    emerald colonnade hollyemerald colonnade holly
    emerald colonnade holly Photo Courtesy of Monrovia, credit Doreen Wynja.

    2. Burgundy Lace Japanese Maple

    Japanese maples are known for their graceful arched branches that swoop in organic shapes that provide structural interest to the garden in winter.

    This Japanese maple will not only look attractive in the winter but also has lacy burgundy red leaves that turn fiery shades in the fall.

    Burgundy Lace Japanese MapleBurgundy Lace Japanese Maple
    Burgundy Lace Japanese Maple Photo Courtesy of Monrovia, credit Doreen Wynja.

    3. Climbing Hydrangea

    Okay, I admit this one is a bit of a cheat! This hydrangea may not have any blooms, or even leaves, in the cooler months but the climbing brown peeling bark is attractive in winter.

    Allow this hydrangea to grow up a trellis, arbor, or wall and become a winter sculpture.

    climbing hydrangeaclimbing hydrangea
    Climbing Hydrangea Photo Courtesy of Monrovia, credit Doreen Wynja.

    4. Cotoneaster

    This low-growing ground cover is perfect to use in an area that doesn’t get a lot of foot traffic. It has small blue-green leaves, tiny white flowers in the spring, and red berries through the fall and winter.

    This evergreen is only 6 inches tall but it is fast-growing and can reach a width of 8 feet in a short period of time. The berries are also a good food source for winter birds.

    Cotoneaster’s bright red berries

     

    5. Sienna Sunrise Heavenly Bamboo

    Heavenly bamboo is another evergreen plant that provides for seasonal interest. While it’s slow-growing to 3 or 4 feet, the new growth is characterized by fiery red highlights on green older leaves.

    If you’re lucky enough to get the flowers in the spring you can get a nice crop of berries in fall and winter. Keep in mind that Heavenly Bamboo can be susceptible to freezing if not protected, so it is best grown in milder winter climates.

    sienna sunrise heavenly bamboosienna sunrise heavenly bamboo
    Heavenly Bamboo Photo Courtesy of Monrovia, credit Doreen Wynja.

    6. Jelena Witch Hazel

    Witch hazel is not just a medicinal superhero but also an unusual shrub that adds blazing colour to the winter landscape. Flowers have wild coppery petals with dark eyes that look like pom-poms adorning the bare branches. These flowers are also fragrant, so plant witch hazel near entries and patios where you can enjoy them the most.

    Witch Hazel in bloom JelenaWitch Hazel in bloom Jelena

     

    5 Winter Garden Flowers to Plant

    1. Cornelian Cherry Dogwood

    In late winter this dogwood produces showy, small yellow flowers that brighten up an otherwise dreary landscape. You can prune it into an attractive low-branching, multi-stemmed shrub or a small (15 to 20 feet tall) garden tree.

    Kornelkirsche - European Cornel Kornelkirsche - European Cornel

    2. Berry Poppins Winterberry

    This cousin of holly only reaches 3 to 4 inches tall but it packs a punch with a full set of bright red ornamental berries in the winter. Not only are these berries perfect for cutting and adding to decorative holiday flower arrangements, but they also provide a good food source for winter birds.

    berry poppins winterberryberry poppins winterberry

    3. Winter Jasmine

    Winter jasmine is a winter-flowering shrub with bright, lemon-yellow flowers that spill over a wall or a steep slope.

    Unsupported it will grow to 4 feet tall and 7 feet wide, but provide a trellis or wall for it to climb up and it will reach heights of up to 15 feet. Its slender, bright green stems make an attractive show in winter.

    Winter jasmine Jasminum nudiflorumWinter jasmine Jasminum nudiflorum
    Winter jasmine Jasminum nudiflorum

    4. Royal Star Magnolia

    This magnolia is such an early bloomer that it’s characterized as winter interest. Gray limbs, shiny green leaves, and fuzzy flower buds show in winter. The deeply fragrant double white flowers emerge in spring before the foliage.

    Magnolias are a good choice to plant where unexpected late freezes can occur as the flowers bloom so early.

    royal star magnoliaroyal star magnolia
    Royal Star Magnolia Photo Courtesy of Monrovia, credit Doreen Wynja.

    5. Lenten Rose

    Hellebores are all the rage in late winter. As they bloom in late winter or early spring they are often called a Christmas Rose or an Easter Rose (depending on when they bloom).

    The winter jewels apricot blush hellebore has a gorgeous peachy-apricot shade with dark rose speckling and edges. These large flowers are 3 to 4 inches in width and last for weeks. Plant these in a sunny garden for the best blooms.

    Winter Jewels Apricot Blush helleboreWinter Jewels Apricot Blush hellebore
    Winter Jewels Apricot Blush hellebore Photo Courtesy of Monrovia, credit Doreen Wynja.

     

    Thank you to Monrovia for helping me curate the winter garden plants for this list and providing the beautiful photos.

    More Posts to Read:

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Which Herbs to Grow Indoors (and Which Ones NOT to) – Garden Therapy

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    Herbs are outdoor plants. There are many plants that can grow well as houseplants, but herbs are not among them. But that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t choose certain herbs to grow indoors. This article covers which herbs to grow indoors, as well as some that you should leave outside.

    If you’re a foodie, you know that having fresh herbs at the ready makes all the difference when it comes to at-home cooking. So I can understand the desire to have an indoor herb garden at the ready!

    Herbs don’t grow nearly as well indoors as they do outdoors, but you can still have a good supply of fresh herbs if you give them the best conditions possible. Indoor herbs are ideal for those who live in small spaces or during the winter when your outdoor herb garden is hibernating.

    Here are the best herbs to grow indoors (and which ones you might want to avoid!).

    Clay Plant Stakes for Herbs - Rosemary and MintClay Plant Stakes for Herbs - Rosemary and Mint
    You can also overwinter some of your outdoor herbs inside.

    Herbs to Grow Indoors

    Leafy Herbs

    These leafy herbs grow quickly and are the easiest to grow indoors. You can clip a few leaves for garnishing and salads regularly. When the plant looks a bit droopy and sad, move it outdoors and plant another one. Luckily, these are often inexpensive as well, so they’re ideal for using and replacing when needed.

    • Chives
    • Lemon Balm
    • Mint
    • Parsley (Flat Italian Parsley or Curled Parsley)
    • Tarragon
    • Vietnamese Coriander

    Evergreen Herbs

    These evergreen /evergreen-ish herbs like to live outdoors where the sun shines brightly, the soil keeps their roots dry, and there is enough cold for a period of rest.

    They are a bit harder to grow indoors as they are slow-growing and slow to adapt to limited light conditions. They may not survive more than a few months, but they look gorgeous in a living planter, and you can certainly harvest a few clippings from them when needed.

    Indoor Herb GardenIndoor Herb Garden
    Propagate a few of your outdoor perennial herb clippings to bring indoors for the winter.

    Honourable Mention

    Curry plant is very pretty and makes for a nice addition to indoor gardens. It is not cold-hardy, so it prefers to be indoors in a warmer climate than some of the other herbs. That being said, curry is a pretty plant that is aromatic in a herb garden.

    As a culinary herb, much of the aroma is lost when cooking, and it doesn’t seem to add much flavour. So if you choose to have this in your herb garden indoors, do so for the aromatics and aesthetics.

    curry plant is a great herb to grow indoorscurry plant is a great herb to grow indoors
    Curry plant is a personal favourite herb of mine.

    Herbs to Keep Outside

    • Dill – This herb is huge! It’s far too large for an indoor garden.
    • Fennel – As with dill, fennel is big and best left outdoors.
    • Basil – basil can be really hard to grow indoors. You could certainly plant it to keep the herbs fresh for longer than those that are cut, but basil is happiest in the ground with lots of bright sun and compost-rich soil.
    • Cilantro – while it looks like parsley, I find it hard to grow enough cilantro indoors to make it worth my while. Without strong direct light, the stems are thin and leggy, and the leaves stay small. You can plant it densely and cut a few stems at a time, but I like to add a lot, and growing it indoors is just too much effort for what it produces.
    • Chamomile – chamomile flowers are what make this herb special, and you will be hard-pressed to get it to flower indoors without adequate light.
    • Garlic – garlic is more of a vegetable in that you harvest the roots to eat. It also takes a long time to grow with a cool season in between.
    Herbs Growing Outdoors in a Wooden WagonHerbs Growing Outdoors in a Wooden Wagon

    More Tips for Growing Herbs

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  • How to Compost – the Easy Way! – Garden Therapy

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    Composting is an environmentally friendly way to improve your garden soil and reduce waste. Yard waste and table scraps can make up a large part of household garbage which could be turned into nutrient-rich amendments for your garden with the right compost recipe. Here’s everything you need to know to learn how to compost properly.

    Even if you only have a small garden, learning how to compost is one of the most important activities you can do to save money and prevent waste from unnecessarily ending up in a landfill.

    Some people mistakenly assume that compostable materials thrown in the garbage will break down and feed the soil in the landfill. But throwing vegetable and garden scraps in the trash means they will be surrounded by garbage and not have the proper recipe to decompose. Instead, it releases harmful methane gas into the environment.

    Composting isn’t difficult, but it isn’t as simple as just throwing your kitchen scraps and garden cuttings into a heap and checking on it a year later. Eventually, those items will break down and create compost, but it is much faster, cleaner, and more effective when you know the proper compost recipe.

    So, let’s learn how to compost, shall we?

    This post will cover…

    Compost recipe: energy materials, bulking agents, air, and water. Compost recipe: energy materials, bulking agents, air, and water.
    The key components of successful composting.

    How to Make Compost

    Healthy compost results from a combination of four ingredients: greens, browns, air, and moisture.

    1. Greens (Energy Materials)

    Add 1 part of greens. Green compost ingredients are those with higher nitrogen content, such as grass clippings, kitchen scraps, and garden trimmings.

    These materials rot quickly and contain the compounds needed for fast microbial growth. They are usually quite wet and heavy and can get stinky fast unless you balance them with enough brown material.

    2. Browns (Bulking Agents)

    Add 2-3 parts of browns. Brown compost ingredients are those with higher carbon content, such as paper, shredded woody material, and straw.

    Browns are dry and bulky, allowing air to reach the greens. They do not decay rapidly without greens because they do not hold enough moisture.

    Are Fallen Leaves a “Brown” for Composting?

    Colour alone is not a good indication of what is considered brown materials. Deciduous leaves that have fallen and turned brown, as well as chopped-up tree and shrub clippings, have higher nitrogen balance than true “browns.”

    Leaves and chopped-up clippings are excellent for compost and can decompose readily on their own, without needing additional greens or browns. You can choose to compost these materials from the garden on their own or mixed in with the 1 part green / 2-3 part brown mixture.

    Just be sure not to replace the browns with fallen leaves, or your compost will be too wet and stinky.

    fallen leaves for compost recipefallen leaves for compost recipe
    Colour alone does not indicate whether it is a “green” or “brown” compost ingredient.

    3. Air

    Packing layers of green and brown materials into a compost bin will not make compost alone. Air needs to be introduced by turning the compost with a fork, an aeration tool, or a rolling composter.

    As the microbes work to break down the materials, the compost heap will become warm. The heat in the middle of the pile can reach up to 150 degrees F.

    Turning the compost once a week should be plenty, but to speed up the process, mix the compost every few days to introduce more air and move materials from the edges to the middle.

    4. Moisture

    Moisture is also necessary to give the microbes the best possible conditions to break down the material. After adding the materials, water the compost pile and mix it well. It should be damp but not soggy. In dry months, you may have to add water, and in wet months, you may have to protect the compost from rain.

    Handful of compostHandful of compost
    You don’t want dry not do you want sopping wet compost.

    How Do I Use Compost?

    Now that you know how simple it is to make compost, let’s chat about what you actually do with it.

    I love the look and feel of compost. It’s rich, black, light, and fluffy to the touch. When I pick it up, I just know that it will be pure gold for my plants and my garden.

    Creating your compost rather than buying it means you’ll have more of the specific nutrients and organisms that your plants and soil need. You can use it as a soil amendment, fertilizer, and as mulch.

    Amend soil with compost manually or more often when you have compost readily available. Spread compost in a thick layer over the soil when the garden is not productive. Compost doesn’t need to be scratched in or turned into the top layer of the soil.

    Turning the compost in only disturbs the network of microorganisms already living in the soil. Better yet, add compost directly over the mulch layer that protects soil and decomposes itself.

    When I’m adding a new plant to the garden, I also like to mix in a little bit of compost at the bottom of the hole I dug to give the plant an extra boost of nutrients. I really never use fertilizer for my garden plants, instead opting for compost.

    You can also make a compost tea. This is a liquid made from steeping or brewing your compost in water to extract beneficial organisms and water-soluble nutrients. Then, it’s applied as a foliar spray to help with plant diseases or as a soil drench, which applies diluted concentrations of soil microorganisms and nutrients.

    Choosing a Compost Bin

    Compost bins are another major part of learning how to compost. You need to find the right bin to suit your needs; one won’t work for everyone. It depends on your available space and how much compost you’ll need.

    You can have one big compost bin or many small ones. The goal is to ensure it’s accessible and easy to add and aerate.

    One of my personal favourites is a vermicomposting bin. These work great for small spaces and those who want a closed system. It relies almost entirely on the power of worms, and you’ll get some pretty amazing organic matter for your soil.

    Here are some other options for compost bins:

    • Electric composters are great for those in apartments with minimal or no deck space.
    • Compost piles where you simply pile it all together are great for homesteads with lots of need and space.
    • Wood slat bins help to keep things contained and aerated if critters are not a problem.
    • If critters are a problem, critter-proof bins with lids are good for urban areas.
    • Rolling composters are also good for urban areas with their closed bins. The bin rolls to help compost degrade faster.

    What Will Make Compost Break Down Faster?

    Some materials are full of microbes, bacteria, fungi, soil insects, mites, and worms that will speed up the decomposition process. Add just a small portion of one of these compost amendments to really get the party started.

    Compost bin filled with homemade compostCompost bin filled with homemade compost
    A compost pile can be this simple, as long as you regularly aerate it and watch its moisture levels.

    What Should You Not Put in Compost?

    Not everything can go in your home compost bin, although some of these can go in city or county large-scale industrial compost bins where the temperatures are consistently hot enough to kill pathogens and seeds.

    Before you compost these items, be sure to check your local composting regulations.

    • Pesticides and herbicides – Keep your garden healthy without introducing pesticides and herbicides into the compost bin.
    • Compostable grocery bags – These should not go in your home compost bin despite the name. Use brown paper bags instead.
    • Evergreen clippings – Some evergreens take a long time to compost at home, and some resins can slow down and/or inhibit the composting process.
    • Meat, bones, dairy, or animal product food scraps – The home compost doesn’t get hot enough to break these down effectively, and it will attract pests, like rats, to the compost pile.
    • Pet waste – Dog and cat poop can carry pathogens that could be transferred to the soil.
    • Diseased plant material – Diseased or infested plants may perpetuate the incidence of disease and pests in future years.
    • Weeds that have gone to seed – Compost may not get hot enough to sterilize weed seeds.
    • Large logs, thorny branches – Big, woody items will be too large to break down. Chip or grind all large, woody materials instead.
    • Poison ivy, invasive weeds, and other noxious plants – Don’t risk spreading these plants by composting them.
    compost tumblercompost tumbler
    This compost tumbler was the solution to stopping rats from invading my compost bin.

    Composting Shouldn’t Be Gross

    If you think composting is yucky or dirty, you aren’t doing it right! Compost should smell fresh, sweet, and earthy. Overly stinky compost is not properly balanced, but it is an easy fix.

    Too many greens in your compost will become soggy and smell bad. Compost can also start to stink when it is too wet. In both cases, adding more brown materials and turning your compost to introduce air will help to remedy the problem.

    Fruit Flies, Maggots, and Rats, Goodbye!

    While composting aims to attract insects and fungi to your compost bin, you shouldn’t need to fight off an army of critters to get into the compost. The best defense against an overly active compost bin is, again, balance.

    If you follow this compost recipe and keep a layer of brown on top of the compost, you will only attract those critters that will work for you to make healthy, nutritious compost.

    using compost for soil regenerationusing compost for soil regeneration
    Compost shouldn’t be overly stinky or attract pests.

    Frequently Asked Questions About How to Compost

    How long does it take to make compost?

    Compost can take as little as four weeks to make or as long as a year. Ultimately, the more work you put in, the faster your compost degrades. While you can just toss everything together in a heap and wait a year, you can speed up the process.

    If you work to accelerate and aerate your compost bin, you will have compost quickly. Quick composting is when you accelerate compost by adding plants.

    Traditionally, this combines dried nettle, dandelion, chamomile, yarrow, valerian, and oak bark. The plants are dried, crushed into a powder, and sprinkled on layers between compost. This will give you compost in 4-6 weeks.

    What happens if you let compost sit too long?

    Generally, compost can sit for a long time without any worry. It won’t stink or rot when it’s properly taken care of by controlling the moisture levels.

    However, compost can lose potency over time. The nutrients leach, and the compost will turn finer and finer as the microorganisms get to work. Too much moisture can cause the compost to rot and grow fungi. And if your compost is in a pile and not in a bin, it could disappear altogether, becoming part of the soil.

    Should compost be in the sun or shade?

    Your compost will be okay in the sun or shade if you properly manage it. Sun speeds up the composting process since it raises the overall temperature. However, it will dry out faster. You may find that you need fewer carbon materials for bins in the sun and need to add water frequently.

    Compost bins in the shade will be prone to staying damp and won’t be as warm. In this case, you may need to aerate it more often and add more carbon materials to help accelerate it.

    Other Tips for Smart Composting

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • ‘The Low-Impact Garden’ Sneak Peek: Jack Pizzo’s Prairie Garden in Illinois

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    For years I have wondered why Europeans find American prairie planting so aspirational, while Americans will go to great lengths to create a semblance of Northern European gardening (often referred to as English) in the US. Can it be as simple as “the grass is always greener”? On researching locations for Gardenista: The Low-Impact Garden, I had a call with plantsman Jack Pizzo, who lives on 40 acres of restored wetland prairie, an hour west of Chicago’s O’Hare Airport. During that conversation he said that with all the choices we have, human landscaping is chaotic. Restoring an ecosystem, on the other hand, involves following what the natural landscape is telling you. Fewer choices, less need to control, less chaos: I had found the key to the book. My actual visit to Jack’s prairie garden, with the photographer Caitlin Atkinson, was quite a trip.

    Photography by Caitlin Atkinson for Gardenista: The Low-Impact Garden.

    Above: Jack Pizzo’s house and textured garden in Illinois, surrounded by the straight lines of neighboring farms.

    Having been briefed to travel all over the States—south, west, and points in between—I found myself thinking about the Alfred Hitchcock film North by Northwest while driving down a long, straight highway, between long, straight lines of beans and corn. A crop duster plane flew toward us as we ducked off into a curved driveway through prairie grassland. Spraying on the neighboring farms takes place on still days, when chemicals will not drift over the boundary and be wasted.

    Above: The curved driveway through a prairie garden surrounded by 38,000 acres of industrial farming.

    A bona fide American prairie, at last. Jack’s academic background is in ecology, and he is actively passionate about planting for birds. He’ll plant an American hazelnut with the hope of attracting the brown thrasher (successful); he creates open spaces and puddles to attract the golden plover. A farm puddle is a “fuddle,” and traditional (pre-industrial) farms would have incorporated more of these relaxed spaces. Jack is re-forging relationships between animals and people, since any prairie, meadow or grassland, is made and maintained by people.

    Above: Jack Pizzo and Jack Pizzo Jr. guiding us through the garden.

    The day of our visit was very hot and humid and I was given some Wellington boots to swoosh through the grassland that surrounds Jack’s house. “You can wander anywhere, there are no paths,” he told us. The plants bounce right back after trampling: “Be like bison; walk side by side.” The ground is damp since this is restored wetland, which was never particularly suitable for straight farming.

    Above: “If you have the plants, you have the bugs; if you have the bugs, you have the birds.”

    Jack’s prairie is simultaneously a garden and a farm. He is a farmer amid other farmers because he grows native plants and distributes their seeds through his land restoration business. He rails at being called a landscaper for the reasons mentioned above: in restoring the land, a natural pattern and logic has been able to emerge, and it’s about habitat. To this end, he has seen 170 bird species in the garden and nine species of amphibians and reptiles. In amongst the 250 native plant species, there are at least five different roses: Carolina, Illinois, swamp, tall pasture, and Arkansas rose. Seven types of milkweed (whirl, common, swamp, butterfly, mountain, green, and green-horned) attract monarch butterflies that rest here in their hordes, en route from Mexico.

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