“I am a gardener, garden designer, and writer. My consultancy, LINDA, designs and plants biodiverse urban gardens that are plant-focused with an emphasis on re-using existing materials where possible. I also organise and curate London’s best plant fairs—the Spring Plant Fair at the Garden Museum and the Autumn Plant Fair at Arnold Circus.”
Read Susanna Grant’s bio, and you’ll be able to glean a few truths about her. One, she sees herself first and foremost as a gardener, a steward of the land, a caretaker of plants. Second, spontaneity and breeziness are key to her designs, as evidenced by the fact that she named her firm after a friend’s dog. And third, she’s keen on building a community of like-minded plant obsessives. (Count us in!)
True to form, Susanna, who wrote a book on shade planting, is also a volunteer gardener and a trustee of Friends of Arnold Circus, and a director of Care Not Capital. “I’m particularly excited by the Modern Gardener training we are delivering to trained gardeners through Care Not Capital this summer at John Little’s experimental garden Hilldrop,” she tells us. “We’ve just opened applications for the second year of our free training.”
Below, she tells us why she’s not a fan of sedum green roofs, how to easily get rid of a lawn, which plant stars in all of her projects, and more. (And if you’re curious to see more of her projects, be sure to go here and here.)
Photography courtesy of Susanna Grant.
Above: Susanna at the Garden Museum plant fair. Photograph by Graham Lacado.
Your first garden memory:
Probably my grandparent’s garden. They had a small rectangular pond with a miniature waterfall made out of bricks that my granddad built. It was deeply suburban! I loved lying beside it watching the water boatmen bugs on the surface.
Garden-related book you return to time and again:
Richard Maby’s Flora Britannica and Weeds: In Defense of Nature’s Most Unloved Plants. His writing is so conversational and captures the emotional connection we have with plants alongside his scientific observations. Both really good for dipping into. Derek Jarman’s Modern Nature is another favourite—again because of the deep relationship he nurtures with his garden. We live with nature, as nature—it is not something separate. These are books you don’t have to be a gardener to enjoy and they might change your perception of the plants around you.
Above: A project that reflects Susanna’s “light touch with hardscaping.”
Natural, kind, plant-heavy. I want my gardens to look like they’ve always been there.
Plant that makes you swoon:
Oenothera stricta sulphurea—it’s the way the sunset colours seep into one another and gently glow at dusk. I rarely get to use it, as most of the gardens I plant are clay and have a fair amount of shade, but I will get it in whenever I can.
Plant that makes you want to run the other way:
Euonymus japonica ‘Aureomarginatus’. I’m trying to like variegation more and can take a silvery edge or delicate white splash, but the yellow and green of this euonymus is too much!
Favorite go-to plant:
Above: At the back of this small garden, nodding Digitalis lutea.
Digitalis lutea. She goes everywhere with me. Tough, evergreen foliage, soft yellow flowers with a beautiful little deferential nod at the tip, good seedheads, good for pollinators, good for shade, good for most gardens.
Hardest gardening lesson you’ve learned:
Probably accepting that gardened spaces are ephemeral. You can pour your heart and soul into a design and planting and make sure it’s cared for, but someone can come and change all of it a few years down the line. Maybe also stop buying plants from nurseries that I don’t need and have nowhere to put them!
Unpopular gardening opinion:
I’m not convinced by the current trend of drought-tolerant Mediterranean planting in the UK as a simple answer to climate change. Yes, summers are getting hotter here, but winters are looking like they are going to get colder and wetter and a lot of Mediterranean plants won’t survive that. Climate emergency means constant adaptation and there isn’t a one-size fits all.
Small gifts for gardeners abound in gift shops and at online retailers, but if we’re honest? Many of them aren’t great picks for true gardeners (we wouldn’t dare pick out seeds for another gardener, for example.) So we’ve gathered a list of 10 stocking stuffer-sized gifts that we think Gardenista readers will actually appreciate. Our […]
Pruning shrubs and topiary is an exhausting business—especially if it requires being perched on top of a ladder or spending an entire day to complete the work. Large hedge-trimmers are simply far too heavy and unwieldy, and—apologies to the purists—traditional topiary shears, too slow for the impatient gardeners among us.
Which is why electric shrub shears are a game-changer for me. I’d first seen the Stihl HSA 26 battery-powered pruners last year but held off buying them until I visited designer Sheila Jack in her Wiltshire garden, where the neat power tool is an essential for trimming her fast-growing Lonicera nitilda domes that need to be clipped every few weeks.
The Stihl shears come with two attachments: a 20cm shrub cutter and a smaller 12cm “grass” cutter. It’s become my go-to tool, gliding through and tidying multiple overgrown hebes, a large topiarized pittosporum, and the many boxwood balls in my garden. It’s lightweight enough to work with all day—although a charged battery will get you about 110 minutes of clipping. (To recharge the battery will take about an hour; having a spare battery would avoid this issue.)
Above: The shrub cutter blade, which is perfect for gliding over topiary and all sizes of shrubs. Above: The shorter grass cutting attachment.
Crucially the HSA 26 is nimble enough and with a strong enough blade action to make clean and precise cuts. Like any bladed power tool, it needs to be used with care. But it’s extremely easy and intuitive to use, with simple blade changes and a rubberized grip for comfort. Stihl claims the shears can cope with branches up to 8mm thick (if you want a tool for chunkier branches, the brand’s cordless pruner—the GTA 26—is a mini chainsaw that is equally lightweight).
As we head into winter, I’m anticipating that the shears are going to be equally transformative when it comes to the big winter deadheading, especially for ornamental grasses which can be time-consuming to cut back. Like the very best tools, this one has made my gardening life a pleasure instead of a pain.
Welcome to The Editors’ Cut, our monthly column dedicated to all things beautiful and useful for the garden, patio, porch, and terrace. This month, as the high season wanes, the gardener turns toward quieter labors: maintenance, tidying, and other steadying tasks to prepare for the months ahead. Here, we’ve gathered the workhorse essentials for this moment, from sturdy basics to new classics. — The Gardenista Editors
Niwaki Galvanized Buckets
Above: These new buckets from Japanese tool manufacturer Niwaki have fast become our favorites. Use them to carry big drinks of water to plants the garden hose can’t reach or to gather yard debris. Shop now.
Andrée Jardin Ashwood Hand Broom
Above: Alexa bought this hand broom a few years back, and it’s proved to be an absolute must in her arsenal of garden tools: “It has super robust vegetable fiber bristles and is the only thing that really cleans up stair railings and fences around my garden.” Shop now.
A Resilient, Drought-Tolerant Seed Blend from Outsidepride
Sponsored by Outsidepride: Is there anything better than lolling on a lush patch of green grass? Just be sure that the grass you choose is durable, disease-resistant, and drought-tolerant, reducing the need for care and maintenance. Outsidepride’s specially formulated Fireball/Hattrick Ryegrass seed blend—with moisture-saving OptiGrowth seed coating—thrives in a variety of climates and grows a dense, carpet-like turf with a rich, green hue. Plant it this fall, and enjoy your dream lawn come spring. Shop now.
Some gift ideas, below, for the mom who has more pictures of her plants than of her kids. (No judgement!) See also: Gardenista Holiday Gift Guide 2023: Editors’ Picks Gardenista Holiday Gift Guide 2023: Stocking Stuffers for the Gardening-Obsessed, All Under $25 What Our Editors Are Giving and (Wishing for) on Mother’s Day
There are maybe a handful of living landscape designers whose names non-gardening types may recognize. Dan Pearson is one of them. Known for his beautiful, bordering-on-wild gardens and commitment to fostering biodiversity, the British designer, horticulturist, and writer (his quarterly online magazine, Dig Delve, is a must-read) started gardening at 6, opened his practice in 1987, and has since gone on to design jaw-dropping gardens all around the world, many of which we’ve covered here on this site (go here, here, and here for a sampling). Now in his fourth decade as a landscape whisperer, he continues to create immersive experiences that garden-philes plan trips around: “I’ve just started work on a public park in Japan, the second phase of Delos at Sissinghurst will begin this year, and I am working with Rachel Whiteread at a sculpture park in south of England,” he tells us.
Clearly, the garden guru is very much in demand, but anyone can have access to his ideas via his online Create Academy courses (he launched “A Naturalistic Design Masterclass” in 2021 and a follow up, “An Expert Guide to Planting Design”, last year.) And, of course, you’ll learn a lot from his Quick Takes answers below—including his favorite plant, tool, and outdoor wear.
Photography courtesy of Create Academy, unless otherwise noted.
Above: When he’s not in London or on a work site, Dan can be found at Hillside, his 20-acre property (a former cattle farm) near Bath.
Your first garden memory:
Making miniature moss gardens out of pincushion mosses.
Cassian Schmidt. Cassian’s observations of plants growing in the wild and the way that he interprets those plant communities in naturalistic plantings are beyond compare.
Describe in three words your garden aesthetic.
Above: A gravel path flanked by effusive plantings at Hillside.
Wild, immersive, and contextual.
Plant that makes you swoon:
Above: One of Dan’s dogs admiring his Yoshino cherry tree (Prunus x yedoensis). Photograph via @coyotewillow.
Prunus x yedoensis—the quintessential Japanese cherry for blossom. I love the anticipation of bud break every March, the way that every inch of the branches is covered in the single, soft pink flowers and how the tree buzzes with bees on a warm spring morning.
Plant that makes you want to run the other way:
Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’. Of all variegated shrubs this is the most difficult to live with. The brashness of its yellow makes it the loudest and worst-dressed guest in any garden, demanding attention.
Favorite go-to plant:
Above: Butomus umbellatus. Photograph via @coyotewillow.
Umbellifers. From cow parsley to giant fennel umbellifers have the most pleasing form and are all pollinator magnets. I couldn’t garden without them.
Hardest gardening lesson you’ve learned:
To be able to let go of a garden when the time comes to move on. Creating a garden requires total application and commitment and a large part of the process is making an investment in the future. When I have had to give up gardens I have made—both for clients and for myself—there is always a sense of loss, of grief almost, which takes some time to process.
Unpopular gardening opinion:
Above: The critters at Hillside love a bit of overgrown messiness.
We didn’t know we needed quietly stylish workwear and Italian garden clogs in our lives until Alan Calpe and Christopher Crawford’s Gardenheir came along. Now, like many others who’ve discovered their website or wandered into their chic shop in Windham, NY, we’re obsessed. The pair founded the business “after becoming more and more consumed as we made our first garden in Upstate New York,” says Alan, who has a background in visual arts and art education; Christopher comes from fashion design.Next up for the enterprising couple: “We recently purchased the property next door and much of it is quite wet land, so we are slowly working towards creating a wild, meandering bog garden.”
Ready to find out what they wear when they garden (spoiler alert: it’s not Crocs) and how they use dryer sheets to fend off bugs?
Above: Christopher and Alan (right) in their moonlight garden.
Your first garden memory:
Alan: One of my oldest friends’ mom was an avid gardener and made a beautifully jungly Florida garden that welcomed you through the front door. I wish I could’ve told her just how much of an influence she was, from peeking into her floral arranging workshop to her once making me a gift of a large strawberry pot dripping of herbs to accompany me to college. I’d consider it my first garden, actually.
Book/show/movie/art that has influenced your work:
Christopher: Early on, reading other’s accounts of making their first gardens, like Margery Fish’s We Made a Garden and Jamaica Kincaid’s My Garden. The unknowing, the failures and pleasures, resonated with us as we fumbled through our beginning gestures.
Alan: Gilles Clément’s The Planetary Garden and Other Writingsshapes a philosophical approach to gardening that I think about often. There’s still much of his work that I don’t think I completely grasp, but it challenges us to look deeply, think more deeply, into the decisions we make in the garden.
Garden-related book you return to time and again:
Alan: We have a copy of Derek Jarman’s Modern Nature in plain view in our home. Because it’s written as diaristic entries arranged through the passing of a year, we often will pick it up to read the chapter that coincides with our own time, to bring him and his garden at Dungeness close to us.
Alan: Iris fulva (copper iris). A native iris with a perfectly simple form and seductive rusty tones.
Plant that makes you want to run the other way:
Christopher: Burdocks, Japanese knotweed.
Favorite go-to plant:
Above: Ornamental grasses planted in their landscape include Deschampsia cespitosa and the Veronicastrum virginicum ‘Album’.
Christopher: Still a sucker for heirloom roses even if they’re finicky in our garden. Pycnanthemum (mountain mints) for sure.
Alan: Also, our garden would be nothing without the structural ornamental grasses.
Most dreaded gardening chore:
Christopher: Picking off Japanese beetles.
Unpopular gardening opinion:
Alan: We have a hard time getting rid of plants that we’ve fallen out of favor with or might not even be thriving so well. It’s sort of like a bad tattoo that you refuse to remove because it reminds you of a particular time in your life. (Even if it’s relegated to a far-off corner somewhere!)
The gardening world can be a relaxing and peaceful place, but many of us sometimes wish there were a few ways to speed up the more tedious jobs. The good news is there’s plenty of gardening equipment that will save you time out there.
Here are a few gardening tools and accessories that can make those less than enjoyable tasks quicker and easier.
Hedge Trimmer
A set of hedge trimmers is a must in a gardener’s toolkit, whether you use it for large jobs or small trimming work. What’s brilliant about hedge trimmers is that they can be used to completely slim down almost any bush, or create a stylish shape.
Hedge trimmers come in various sizes. A larger model is ideal if you have a more extensive garden, but it might be overkill for smaller gardens where a more compact model will be adequate.
Large Shovel/Spade
A large shovel may sound like an obvious tool, but it is far more useful and versatile than you may think.
Digging holes or digging up grass or weeds can take a while at the best times, and can take even longer if you’re using a small garden trowel.
Instead, invest in a good-sized shovel that you can use to dig, move compost, move plants, or whatever else you may need. Once you start using a good shovel, you’ll wonder how you managed before.
Hori-Hori
A hori-hori is regarded as the Swiss army knife of gardening tools. It is fitted with a straight blade, one side sharp and one side serrated, as well as a notch for cutting twine, rope, or any other kind of thin material.
You can also use the serrated edge to cut and trim bushes and thin branches. Some hori-hori’s also come with a mini measuring tape on the blade, allowing you to make small measurements as you go.
Bed Preparation Rake
Large gardens typically have large plant beds, and preparing them for plants or flowers can be a long and tedious job. While you can do it with a trowel, it can be long and backbreaking work.
Instead, invest in a bed preparation rake that will allow you to prepare your garden beds in a matter of minutes. This tool easily turns a job that can take a few hours into something that can be done in less than thirty minutes.
Landscape Cloth
Instead of finding a tool that helps you remove weeds faster, why not invest in something that removes your weed problem completely? Landscape cloth is the ideal tool for this, especially when you have large areas of your garden that you want to keep weed-free.
Simply place the cloth over your garden beds, then cut holes in it to let your plants or flowers grow through. The rest of the bed is covered, which slows down or even stops the growth of weeds.
Wheelbarrow
Carrying bags of fertiliser or big plants across your garden can get very tiring very quickly. A wheelbarrow is a piece of gardening equipment that will save you time and effort on moving heavy bags, pots, and plants.
A wheelbarrow is also ideal for moving dirt and other plant material to the compost heap or your car.
Garden Wagon
For larger gardens, a wagon is a must. Most garden wagons are fitted with all-terrain tires, and are more than large enough to carry a few plants, some fertiliser, tools, and most accessories you need for a day’s gardening.
A wagon is particularly useful if you are a solo gardener, as there is no need to get any help carrying things or going back and forth.
Measuring Tape
When designing a garden and ensuring you plant everything where it needs to be, you need a measuring tape. There are many plants that can’t be planted right on top of each other, as they won’t get enough sun or water to thrive; this is why measuring is important.
A measuring tape is also a useful tool for any other kinds of construction you may do in your garden. From putting up small fences to creating a garden path, a measuring tape will help you do the best job possible.
Blade Sharpener
If you’re going to have hedge trimmers and a hori-hori in your gardening shed, you’re going to need a blade sharpener as well. A regular knife sharpener may not do the job, but there are several sharpening stones that you can invest in.
It’s very easy to learn how to sharpen your blades properly. This not only allows them to be their most effective, but can also drastically increase their lifespan if you look after the blade.
Garden Calendar
Finally, a garden calendar is a very simple and useful tool to help you not waste time doing jobs that aren’t necessary yet. Keeping track of when your plants need to be watered, weeded, when they need a change of soil, etc, will help you streamline your gardening and use your time more effectively.
You may remember Summer Rayne Oakes from her incredible, plant-filled Brooklyn apartment that went viral in 2016. Since then, “I set out on a mission to bring people closer to plants by bringing plants closer to them,” she says, via her YouTube channel “Plant One On Me” and her Houseplant Masterclass series. During the COVID pandemic, she and her friends decided to buy a former plant nursery in the Finger Lakes region of New York, “with the goal of turning it into a communal homestead and botanical oasis.” They document their progress on their new channel Flock.
Summer shared her plant wisdom in our newest book Remodelista: The Low-Impact Home. Here, she goes deeper, revealing the tool she can’t live without, her favorite method of deterring weeds, and more.
Above: Summer and her friends are currently transforming 90 acres in the Finger Lakes region into a communal homestead.
My mom kept the most beautiful flower gardens on the street, and we had a large veggie garden and small orchard, too. Towards the back of our land, we had gargantuan rhubarbs that grew around the red currants. I would hide under the rhubarb leaves, like they were folious umbrellas. And I would break the stems and eat them raw—even though they were quite sour. My mother would make French-style crepes with the currants too, which were my favorite. And how can I forget the lilacs! My bedroom was on the second floor of the house and every summer, the lilacs bloomed outside my window and the warm breezes would blow the scent all through my bedroom. It was decadent. Sadly when we left that house, I asked my mother if we could take the lilac bushes, but I would have to wait when I was adult to enjoy the scent of lilacs again.
Book/show/movie/art that has influenced your work:
I think Rick Darke’s and Doug Tallamy’s book, The Living Landscape, really encapsulated creating a garden that selflessly extends beyond yourself to one that focuses on promoting biodiversity and maintaining ecosystem function. Piet Oudolf’s landscape creations are also so soothing to the eye, and I find myself referencing his textures and painterly approach to landscaping.
Garden-related book you return to time and again:
Perhaps not gardening books per se, but I’m constantly reaching for my pollinator identification guides and caterpillar books, for which I have several, because I’m always seeing never-before-seen insects in my garden, especially now that I’ve been focusing on planting insect host plants.
Plant that makes you swoon:
Above: The pollinator garden at Flock.
Symphyotrichum ericoides ’Snow Flurry’; Muhlenbergia capillaris; Eragrosis spectabilis; and All things Liatris, including Liatris microcephala.
Plant that makes you want to run the other way:
Reynoutria japonica (Japanese knotweed) and vinca vine.
Most dreaded gardening chore:
Removing grass from garden edges.
Unpopular gardening opinion:
Above: No space between plants = no space for weeds.
Don’t follow the plant spacing recommendations on the back of plant tags. I like to plant close together to suppress unchosen plants early on and create a carpet of foliage.
The one thing you wish gardeners would stop doing:
Planting only non-native species.
Old wives’ tale gardening trick that actually works:
Composted manure brings big veggies!
Favorite gardening hack:
Plant densely to avoid weeds, plant diversely to bring life.
Are you looking to create wow factor in your hanging basket or container garden displays? This list of the best trailing plants for hanging baskets and pots has twenty fantastic varieties to help you do just that.
Low maintenance outdoor hanging plants
In this post I’ve listed lots of outdoor trailing plants for hanging baskets and pots that will give your containers oomph and help to increase their overall impact. You’ll also find tips on planting and caring for your container garden, so you can keep it looking fantastic for months.
Why trailing plants are brilliant for outdoor hanging baskets and container gardens
There are lots of good reasons why you should definitely consider trailing container plants for pots or a hanging basket arrangement.
First of all, trailing plants look great! There’s a wide range of different varieties to choose from, and you can use them to provide colour, texture, contrast, foliage and scent in your container displays – just like you would with a plant that doesn’t trail.
Another good reason to grow trailing container plants is all about volume. Because they spill over the sides, they allow you to ‘green up’ a larger area than the surface of the soil alone. This means you can create a bigger impact in a smaller space, which is great for small space gardening or compact pots and baskets.
Cascading plants are also brilliant when it comes to disguising a less-than-lovely basket or pot. You can use them to cover up a multitude of sins!
Many trailing plants for containers are ideal for helping you garden for wildlife too. You can use them to boost the amount of food and shelter available to local wildlife without taking up lots of room.
What plants go together in a hanging basket?
Before we get onto the best trailing plants for hanging baskets and pots, I want to share a super-simple but seriously clever trick for wow factor containers.
The “Thriller, Filler, Spiller” approach is loved by gardening professionals, and for good reason. Trailing container plants play a key role in this easy plant hack that creates show-stopping hanging baskets and containers.
Here’s how you can copy the pros and design amazing hanging displays.
1. Start with a Thriller plant. This is the main attraction in your container, so it tends to be bigger or taller than the other plants. Positioning your Thriller plant in the centre of your hanging basket or pot works well.
2. Next, you need some Filler plants to – you’ve guessed it – fill up your container. The aim with these is to deliver a splash of colour and interest closer to the soil. We’re not trying to compete with the Thriller plant here; instead think of your fillers as providing an interesting backdrop with colour, texture and shape.
3. Your Spiller plants are your trailing plants. These should be planted close to the edge of the container, so they can cascade over the sides easily. As well as increasing the size of your plant display, spillers are excellent for balancing out the height of other plants in your container.
How many plants do you put in a hanging basket?
If you’re hanging trailing plants outdoors, the ideal quantity you need depends on the size of your container.
It’s tempting to really pack the plants in for a big impact, but don’t forget that those plants will get bigger. Remember also that each plant relies on a limited amount of compost for nutrients, so the more plants you squeeze in, the quicker that compost will become exhausted and stop supporting the plants as well.
A sensible approach is to allow a little bit of room around each plant when you plant up your container. It’s also a very good idea to feed your plants regularly – more on that later.
The best low maintenance trailing plants for hanging baskets and pots
Ready to dive into the world of cascading plants for hanging baskets and pots? Here are my favourite trailing plants for container gardens. I’ve included flowering hanging plants, foliage plants and edible plants, so it’s a one-stop shop for trailing plant inspiration.
Flowering trailing plants for hanging baskets and pots
When it comes to flowering trailing plants for window boxes, baskets and pots, you’ve got lots of fantastic options. Here’s my selection of the best trailing flowers for hanging baskets and container displays.
Trailing Fuchsia
A favourite with many gardeners, fuchsia plants have beautiful bell-shaped, showy flowers that nod from the stems and last all summer. A trailing variety of this flowering plant will add froth and lots of colour to a hanging basket or pot. The flowers will dance in the breeze too, so you’ll also be able to enjoy a bit of movement.
Trailing Lobelia
I love using trailing lobelia in containers; I think it’s one of the best hanging basket plants you can choose. The tiny flowers are perfect for softening edges, and the plant will bloom for months. You don’t need to deadhead it either. It works well as a contrast to plants with larger flowers, or mixed in with trailing foliage plants.
Make sure you buy the trailing variety of lobelia, as it’s also available as an upright plant.
Trailing petunia (Calibrachoa)
If you want an easy to grow plant that produces lots of flowers, go for trailing petunias (also known as Calibrachoa or million bells). You can get months of interest from these easy-going annuals, and there are some fabulous patterned and double varieties available if you like the idea of mixing things up a bit.
Bacopa
Another candidate for small flowers, Bacopa is covered in dainty blooms and will put on a show from late spring right through to autumn.
Trailing pelargoniums
Geraniums (or pelargoniums) are a much-loved plant for pots and baskets, but did you know you can buy trailing varieties?
These are often referred to as ivy-leafed trailing geraniums, and are available in shades of pink, red, white and purple flowers. Use them to add a pop of colour to a mixed display, or combine them with standard geraniums for a more contemporary look.
Trailing Begonias
Begonias are another firm favourite for pots, and the trailing varieties are extra-useful for turning up the volume on your displays. There are loads of colours to choose from too.
Black-eyed Susan vine
Black eyed Susan vine, or Thunbergia alata, is a less well-known trailing plant for hanging baskets and pots, but well worth considering. It’s a climber, but will be happy spilling over the edge of containers too. The flowers are quite big, so it works well in larger containers. Black-eyed Susans are native to east Africa so will enjoy warm conditions and a sheltered spot in the garden, or you can grow it in a conservatory.
Trailing Verbena
These popular bedding plants are reliable and unfussy, producing an abundance of flowers on dense foliage. Trailing Verbena is great for bulking out your pots and will happily fill in any gaps.
Trailing Pansies
Pansies are a go-to plant for winter and spring containers, and by including a trailing pansy variety you can get all the benefits of these hardy, colourful plants with the added cascade factor. ‘Cool Wave’ is a popular mix of trailing pansies which includes yellows, purples and white tones.
Outdoor trailing plants for foliage in hanging baskets and pots
It’s a good idea to include foliage plants in any container display. They’re fantastic for adding texture and colour contrast, and work hard to showcase their flower neighbours.
If you’re wondering what to put in hanging baskets besides flowers, here are some great trailing hanging basket plants for foliage.
Creeping jenny
Creeping jenny is also known as Lysimachia. It’s an evergreen trailing plant, so it’s good for container displays at any time of year. Grow it for the lovely lime green foliage, but it also produces small yellow flowers. A great backdrop plant to showcase your flowers.
Calocephalus
I don’t know whether this is strictly a trailing plant, but I often use Calocephalus as a spiller in my containers. It has lovely delicate silver stems that tumble over edges as the plant grows bigger. Combine this one with shades of purple and pink flowers for a cool, modern look.
Ivy
Ivies are cheap, readily available evergreen trailing plants for hanging baskets. English ivy is also a fabulous source of shelter and food for garden wildlife. And trailing ivy is an extremely tough plant, so if you tend to neglect your containers it’s definitely one to consider.
You could go for a variegated variety to add interest, or an all-green variety for a subtle backdrop to your other plants.
Vinca
If you grow trailing Vinca (also called trailing periwinkle) in the ground, it will scramble all over the place, and it’s this urge to spread that makes it a good trailing plant for hanging baskets and pots. You can avoid it taking over the garden too!
Helichrysum petiolare
Another great evergreen plant for pots, Helichrysum petiolare (or liquorice plant) has pale stems and grey-green leaves. The leaves have a felt-like texture, so this is also a great plant for a tactile display.
Tradescantia Zebrina
The leaves on Tradescantia (which is also known as inch plant) are a thing of beauty. They’re striped on top and purple underneath, so you get an abundance of colour and interest. This foliage plant is often grown indoors, but you can get away with a warm, sheltered spot outside.
Trailing ferns
If you think of ferns as being solely upright plants, think again. Some types have a trailing habit and are well-suited to hanging baskets and pots. Popular varieties include Boston fern, maidenhair fern and lady fern.
Silver Falls Dichondra
If you’d like some silver-grey in the mix, Dichondra argentea, or silver nickel vine, is a brilliant tender perennial trailing foliage plant (take a look at my guide to annual vs. perennial plants if you’re not sure what perennials are). The unusually shaped leaves will complement shades of pink and purple, and work beautifully in white plant arrangements too.
Trailing sedums (trailing succulents)
Love your succulents? Go for a trailing variety of sedum such as ‘Redhead’, “Bluebubbles” or “Moss sedum’ in your containers. These hanging succulent plants provide foliage at soil level, and will happily creep over the edges of a pot too.
Edible trailing plants for hanging baskets
Your trailing pot plants can taste good as well as look good! Here are three great edible trailing plants for containers.
Strawberries
Strawberry plants work really well in hanging baskets and pots. By raising them off the ground you can protect the fruit from slugs and snails, plus it’s easier to pick the fruit. They look great too! Grow your plants in direct sunlight for best results – they love a sunny spot.
Tomatoes
You don’t need a grow bag to grow tomatoes; they will be perfectly content in a pot or hanging basket. You need to go for a bush variety rather than a cordon variety; *Tumbling Tom and Balconi Red are both an excellent choice for cherry tomatoes.
Nasturtiums
This trailing plant could also sit very well in the flowering category. The bright orange flowers are great for making a statement, but they’re also edible, so you can pick them for salads and garnishes. Trailing nasturtiums are tough plants that grow quickly, and they will tolerate poor soil and a bit of neglect. Definitely a great contender for a low maintenance container garden.
The best tools for planting hanging basket and outdoor pots
Gardening in pots and hanging baskets is very straightforward, and you won’t need lots of fancy equipment and tools. Having said that, having a few basic pieces of kit will definitely make things easier.
Top of my list is a good *hand trowel. You’ll use this all the time to fill your containers with compost, and top up gaps around your plants. Go for a size that’s well-suited to your hanging basket or pot; you might find that child-sized tools work best if your containers are on the small side.
Next up is a decent pair of *gardening gloves to protect your hands. This is very much an area where personal preference is important, but don’t be too distracted by pretty designs! You need a pair that fit well and allow you to move your hands easily when you’re wearing them.
I also think a pair of *secateurs or *snips are a must-have to help you maintain your plants. In my experience snips are particularly good for small spaces and hanging baskets.
Finally, make sure you’ve got a *watering can. I use a *mini watering can for my hanging baskets; you can lift these up high more easily, plus they don’t provide a deluge of water that floods your basket too quickly.
Trailing flowers for pots: choosing hanging baskets and containers
You’re spoilt for choice with the range of hanging baskets and pots available for outdoor plant displays. Whatever style you’re after, you can probably find it. Just make sure you think about these key areas before you buy:
Your hanging basket or pot needs drainage holes. Without them, your plants will sit in a puddle of water, and that can quickly kill them. Don’t buy anything that doesn’t already have holes, or an easy way to make some yourself.
You may need to also buy a liner for hanging baskets. Check the size, and if in doubt buy one that’s larger than your basket so you can trim it down.
Pay attention to the hook on a hanging basket. It needs to be strong and sturdy; once the basket is full of compost, plants and water it will be surprisingly heavy.
Go for a basket that can comfortably hold the number of plants you want to grow. Always allow a bit of room for them to fill as they get bigger.
You can also upcycle household objects to make unique plant containers. Here are a few ideas for things that work well:
An old colander with a hanging basket liner, hung up with string
A broken watering can – hang it up by the handle, or stand it on the ground
A large teacup and saucer
Tin cans – hang them up with string, or display on a wall or windowsill
An old tyre
Old wellies – colourful kids wellies work really well
A teapot – hang it up by the handle, or put it on the ground
Whatever you go for, don’t forget those all-important drainage holes.
What is the best soil for hanging baskets and pots?
The compost you use is a really important part of gardening in hanging baskets and pots.
Plants grown in containers only have access to a limited amount of nutrients, because the compost itself is limited. This means at some point the plants will use up all the nutrients, and when this happens they start to struggle. We all tend to pack lots of plants into pots and hanging baskets, so your plants can reach this point quite quickly.
The best way to keep your plants happy is to choose a good quality *peat-free compost. A general-purpose compost will be fine for most container plants, but do check your plant labels as some are a bit fussier and need a particular type of compost. We’ve got a guide to the best compost for pots to help you choose the right product.
If you’re a bit nervous about looking after your plants, or want to be more hands-off with the maintenance, you could go for a compost which is specifically designed for hanging baskets and pots. This will usually contain some slow-release fertiliser plus water-retaining crystals to take care of your plants with minimum effort. You can of course make your own version of this by adding *slow-release fertiliser and *water-retaining granules to standard compost.
How do you plant a trailing hanging basket?
Here’s a quick guide to planting up a hanging basket.
Most hanging baskets don’t have a flat base, and this can make it hard to keep them steady while you plant them up. If you sit your basket on top of an empty plant pot this will help to make planting easier.
If your basket needs a liner, add that first. Make sure you trim it to size for a neat finish.
If you’re using a plastic hanging basket, or a hanging basket with a plastic liner, use a knife or scissors to poke some drainage holes in the plastic.
If you’re adding slow-release fertiliser or water-retaining granules to the compost, mix these in before filling up your hanging basket.
Add compost to the basket, until it’s nearly full.
Remove your plant from its pot carefully, to protect the roots. A good way to do this is to slide your fingers around the base of the plant, then tip the whole thing upside down and ease the pot off with your other hand.
Arrange your plants on the surface of the compost. Remember the Thriller-Filler-Spiller trick!
When you’re happy with your arrangement, fill in any gaps around the plants with a bit more compost.
Water your hanging basket really thoroughly, then allow it to drain for a few minutes before hanging it up.
How do you make a hanging basket look fuller?
We all want our hanging baskets and container displays to look lush and amazing straight away, don’t we? But this is one of those times when you need a little bit of patience!
Don’t be tempted to overfill your container for instant impact. Doing this gives the plants no room to grow, and is only a short-term gain.
Instead, give your plants a bit of space and wait for them to grow and fill out. If you take good care of them this won’t take long. You can help to speed things up by feeding and watering regularly.
If you’re using a wire hanging basket, you can also add plants around the sides to create fuller basket displays. To do this simply poke a hole in the liner, then carefully push your plant into the compost. Keep the hole small to minimise compost leakage.
Care tips for trailing plants in hanging baskets and pots
So you’ve planted up your hanging basket or pot, and now it’s time to sit back and enjoy the results of your hard work, right? Sort of.
Container displays don’t need lots of maintenance, but there are a few things you can do to keep them looking good and get the maximum impact from your plants.
Right plant, right place
The most important of these is to position your container in the ideal spot for the plants inside it. This is known as ‘right plant, right place’ in the gardening world, and it’s a great way to make hanging flowers look good.
Every plant has a specific set of conditions that it prefers. That could be full sun, a sheltered spot, part shade, good drainage, or a specific type of compost. If you provide your plant with these conditions, it will do well. If you don’t, it will struggle.
As well as helping your plants grow strong, positioning them in the right place can also cut down on maintenance and make them less vulnerable to plant pests.
You can usually find the ideal conditions for a plant on the care label it comes with when you buy it. If this is missing or there’s not much information, you can look the plant up online, or use a plant identification app.
Once you’re armed with the best conditions for your plants, you can work out the ideal location for your hanging basket or pot. This works the other way around too; you can start with where you want to put your container, then buy plants that do well in the conditions provided there. This second approach is particularly useful if you’ve already installed your hanging basket bracket!
Feeding trailing plants in hanging baskets and pots
As I’ve already mentioned, plants grown in containers have limited access to nutrients. To stop them going hungry, you need to feed them regularly.
What is the best fertiliser for hanging baskets and containers?
A general-purpose plant food is fine for most container grown plants, and you can buy this in a variety of formats.
A *concentrated liquid feed must be diluted before use, while *ready-to-pour liquid feed can be added to your container straight from the bottle. Plant food is also available as *granules, which need to be mixed with the compost before you start planting. The easiest option is ready-to-pour feed, but bear in mind it won’t be the cheapest; it also involves more packaging, so if you want to garden sustainably it’s not ideal.
Can you overfeed hanging baskets?
It’s possible to overfeed any plant. Overfeeding can kill plants, so stick to the recommended intervals between feeds – check the packaging for this info.
Watering trailing plants in hanging baskets and pots
Watering is really important when you’re growing foliage and flowering plants in pots and hanging baskets.
Plants grown in containers usually dry out much quicker than plants grown in the ground. This is because the compost can only retain a finite amount of water, but also because the sides of a container are exposed to warmer temperatures which speeds up evaporation.
To avoid a parched hanging planter full of crispy plants, you need to check them on a regular basis. If the top of the compost feels dry to the touch, your plants need a drink.
Should I water my hanging baskets every day?
The answer to this question depends on the weather. In very warm conditions you may need to water every day, or even twice a day. Be guided by the weather where you live, and how dry the soil feels.
Watering hanging baskets can be a bit tricky, as they tend to overflow before the compost and roots can absorb the water. Try to water them as gradually as possible; you can even water them lightly, then come back in ten minutes and repeat the process.
Another good trick is to place a small plant saucer in the bottom of the basket before you plant it up. Doing this creates a little water reservoir and helps reduce leakage.
If you make sure the soil doesn’t really dry out between waterings this will help with water retention too. Water tends to simply pour over very dry soil, rather than soaking in.
What time of day should you water hanging baskets?
Early morning is the best time of day to water any plants. Watering before the hottest time of the day minimises evaporation and gives plants a better chance of absorbing the water. The next best option is to water in the early evening, but don’t leave it too late; damp leaves overnight can lead to problems with mould and mildew.
How do you keep hanging baskets blooming?
As well as feeding and watering your hanging baskets and pots, there’s another quick and easy way to keep them looking good for as long as possible. Welcome to the world of deadheading!
Deadheading sounds like a serious business, but it’s actually super-simple. All you do is remove any drooping or dead flower heads, plus any seed heads that the plant has formed. When you do this, you stop the plant setting seed, which in turn stimulates it to make more lovely flowers.
You can use your fingers or a pair of *snips to deadhead your plants. Try to do it on a regular basis; as well as keeping the time required to a minimum, this will help to keep your containers looking neat and tidy.
I hope this guide to the most popular trailing plants for hanging baskets and pots helps you to create some amazing container displays. If you’ve got any top tips for container gardening please do share them in the comments 🙂
More container gardening resources
Here are some more container gardening blog resources that you might find useful.
Are you looking for advice on the best plants for outdoor pots?
Whether you’re a beginner gardener who’d like to start small with plants in containers, or a seasoned pro who’s keen on planting outdoor pots, there’s lots here to inspire you.
This post on the best plants for pots lists over 30 fantastic low maintenance plants for outdoor pots. I’ve also included simple tips for taking care of your plants so that they thrive and provide you with a gorgeous display, and a quick guide to the basic tools you need for planting containers.
The benefits of growing plants in pots
Growing plants in pots has lots of advantages.
If you’re new to gardening, growing plants in pots is a great way to get started. You can keep things small-scale, moving onto larger displays as you learn and become more confident.
The other element of container gardening that suits new gardeners is the low maintenance aspect. It’s easier and quicker to take care of a plant in a pot than it is to keep on top of a whole garden border. In addition, containers are relatively portable, so if your plant is struggling you can easily move it to a different location before it’s too late.
That portability is a big plus for renters too, because you can take your plants with you when you move.
Containers are also perfect for gardening in small spaces. You don’t even need a garden; you can tuck a pot onto a balcony, outside a front door, or on a window ledge. This makes growing plants in pots a super-easy way to green up your outdoor space regardless of its size.
Gardening in pots, baskets and containers allows you to adjust the height of your garden too. This is particularly helpful if your movement is restricted, or you struggle to garden at ground level. Being able to play with height is also a fantastic way to create a bigger display of plants and flowers in a small space by using a range of pot sizes, trellis or even shelving.
Container gardening is also ideal for children. Kids love having their very own pot to take care of, and it’s easy for them to plant in a smaller space. You can introduce some fun crafting too, by decorating their pot or making plant markers.
Finally, if you don’t have lots of time for gardening, concentrating on growing plants in pots is a good compromise. The smaller scale translates into less time dealing with watering, weeding and pests – and you won’t have to do any digging!
It’s not hard to see why container gardening is so popular, is it?
Do plants grow better in pots or in the ground?
Some plants are better suited to growing in the ground, and some will be more than happy growing in a pot. Choose plants that are well-suited to growing in container planters, and you stand a much better chance of creating a healthy and beautiful container garden. In the gardening world this if often referred to as ‘right plant, right place’.
Right plant, right place
You might have come across the saying ‘right plant, right place’ already; it’s a key element of good garden design, and is often mentioned in gardening programmes and magazines. It’s a simple but powerful approach to helping your plants thrive, and it’s well worth taking a little bit of time to understand the concept.
All plants – regardless of what you grow them in – have their own set of conditions that they will thrive in. Put your plant somewhere that provides these conditions, and you’re already well on the way to making it happy.
The flip side of this idea is that by forcing a plant to grow in conditions it doesn’t naturally enjoy, you will automatically limit how well it does.
The ‘right plant, right place’ concept goes a long way towards explaining why you might have lost plants in the past, and also gives you a simple framework for growing your plants going forward.
So how do you work out the conditions that your plants need? First of all, check the care label. If you don’t have one, look the plant up online, or use a plant identification app. Some plants need full sun, while others are happy growing in full shade. Your plant may need a high humidity level, or love to bake in dry heat. Once you’re armed with this information, you can choose the perfect spot for your container and make sure you’ve given your plants the best possible chance of doing well.
The difference between annual and perennial plants for outdoor pots
If you’re relatively new to gardening, here’s a quick guide to the difference between annual and perennial plants. This will come in handy when you’re choosing your plants and setting your budget.
Annual plants grow, flower and die in one growing season, or year. As a result, you will usually need to replace them with new plants every year.
Perennial plants will grow year after year. They might die back in winter and grow again in spring, or be evergreen. Either way, you shouldn’t need to replace them on a regular basis.
The majority of plants sold in garden centres and online for container planting are annual plants. They’re often labelled as ‘bedding plants’ and common varieties include begonia, pansies, petunia, lobelia and marigolds.
Absolutely. If your perennial plant is suited to growing in a pot, there’s no reason not to. In fact, growing perennial plants in containers is a much more cost-effective way of gardening. It also opens up the range of plants available to you significantly. You can grow flowering plants, shrubs and even small trees perfectly well in pots, if you choose the right variety. Read on to find out what perennials do well in pots.
The best low maintenance plants for outdoor pots
So you’re raring to go with container gardening, and now it’s time to choose your plants. Here are my top picks for low maintenance plants for outdoor pots that will help you create stunning container displays.
Perennial plants for pots
Standard shrubs
A standard shrub is a shrub that has been grown into a specific shape. This is often a lollipop-shape that resembles the structure of a small tree. Standard shrubs are ideal plants to grow in containers, and can be used to create a big impact. They also make ideal tall plants for pots.
Great low-maintenance standard shrubs for outdoor pots include bay, photinia, wisteria, holly and ornamental cherries. I have a miniature ornamental cherry called Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’ which is an absolute stunner in springtime.
Roses
There are many varieties of roses which are well-suited to growing in pots. As the name suggests, a patio rose variety is a perfect choice. I love the white simplicity of ‘Bianco’, but there’s a wide range of colours to choose from.
Succulents
You probably associate succulents with indoor plants, but many varieties are ideal for outdoor pots. You can plant several varieties together to create a desert garden effect, or stick to one type for a more contemporary look. Succulents look fantastic against a gravel background, this is a great way to stop soil splashing onto the leaves too.
Succulents are very low maintenance outdoor potted plants, but they don’t enjoy sitting in soggy soil. Make sure you give them plenty of drainage.
Camellias
If you’d like to introduce an evergreen shrub to your container display, consider a camellia. Their deep green glossy leaves provide interest all year round, and they put on a stunning flower display in early spring. You do need to plant camellias in ericaceous compost and grow them in a sheltered position, but if you get both of these things right they don’t need much in the way of maintenance.
Agapanthus
The restrictive nature of a pot works in your favour when it comes to agapanthus, because it makes the plant produce more flowers. Agapanthus will provide height and showy blooms during summer months, and shades range from white to deep blue. I think they work particularly well in a contemporary setting, and also against a dark backdrop which makes the colour sing out.
Box
If you’d like a formal, sleek look for your container, a clipped box plant is the way to go. These plants are slow-growing, so they’re not cheap to buy, but you can go for a small plant to keep costs down. Having said that, if it’s large plants for pots you’re after, a large box in a lovely pot can make a fabulous focal point.
Because box is slow-growing, you’ll only need to give it a trim every year or so. The rest of the time all it needs is water. Do check whether you live in an area that has a problem with box blight or box tree caterpillar before you buy; if you’re concerned you could go for an alternative evergreen such as yew or bay.
Dwarf buddleja
Dwarf buddlejas are designed to be grown in pots, and offer the low maintenance floral impact of a traditional buddleja plant in a much more compact area. They’re also a fantastic plant for pollinating insects, and particularly loved by butterflies.
Dwarf Lavatera
This is another traditionally large plant that has recently been introduced as a dwarf variety for container gardeners. Dwarf lavatera (or mallow) is a tough plant that will cope with a bit of neglect, and produces masses of pale pink blooms on tall stems. It’s another great plant for pollinating insects too.
Lavender
Lavender is a traditional cottage garden plant, but it also looks amazing in a more contemporary setting. You can also plant lavender in pots. Choose a hardy English variety and you will keep the maintenance to a minimum. Lavender enjoys good drainage, so don’t overwater it. It’s a good idea to plant lavender companion plants alongside to boost wow factor.
Spring flowering bulbs
*Bulbs are well-suited to growing in pots, and you can create a lovely display in spring before your other plants get going. A particularly clever way of doing this is to plant a bulb lasagne, which involves layering your bulbs up in a pot to extend the flowering period. My post on planting a bulb lasagne shows you how to do this.
Hardy geraniums
Hardy geraniums are really low-maintenance, unfussy flowers for pots. They will happily grow in containers, where they will produce masses of flowers for very little effort. You can also divide them when they get bigger and make new plants for free!
Hostas
You don’t have to have flowers to make a big impact in a container. With their large, textured leaves, hostas are perfect specimen plants for containers, providing an impressive foliage display. An added bonus of growing them in pots is that you can keep the slugs and snails off them much more easily.
Heucheras
Another great option for foliage, heucheras are available in many colours from deep purples through to golden bronzes. They work really nicely alongside flowering plants, but also look great on their own or as several different colours grouped together in their own pots.
Hydrangeas
We tend to think of hydrangeas as great big garden border plants, but they will also be happy to grow on a smaller scale in a container. Hydrangeas bloom for months, so you can create real wow factor over a long period of time from just one pot. Do check water levels regularly, as they are thirsty plants.
Grasses
Ornamental grasses are fantastic plants for outdoor pots. Use them to add height, texture and movement to a display. I love using grasses as a foliage backdrop with annual flowering plants. Grasses are also brilliant for providing structure and interest over the winter months; some are evergreen, but even the ones that die back can look stunning if you leave the dead stems intact.
Annual plants for pots
When it comes to annual plants for outdoor pots, there’s a wide range to choose from. Here are my favourite low-maintenance annuals for containers.
Osteospermum
Also known as African Daisies, Osteospermum have lots of cheery daisy-like flowers and are available in a range of colours. I like using them alongside smaller-flowered plants such as lobelia.
Lobelia
Lobelia is a great plant for bulking out a container display. It’s covered in tiny little blue, white or purple flowers, and just keeps on going. You can buy standard or trailing lobelia varieties; I think the trailing ones are particularly useful in containers, as they allow you to soften edges and continue the display over a larger area. They’re one of the best plants for hanging flower baskets too.
Petunias
Petunias are hugely popular container plants, and for good reason. They’re easy to grow, produce masses of flowers, and come in a wide range of colours. If you deadhead them regularly, they will flower for months too.
Verbena
Annual verbena is another versatile bedding plant that you can combine with other plants to create a colourful display. I like to use white varieties of verbena in combination with stronger colours to provide contrast, but there are shades of pink and purple if you’d prefer more ‘oomph’.
Pansies & Violas
Another great low-maintenance annual, pansies and violas will grow pretty much anywhere. They’re happy to flower in colder months too, making them perfect for adding winter interest to your garden.
Sunflowers
Not all sunflowers are six foot giants! There are lots of smaller varieties that are well-suited to containers, including our favourite *Teddy Bear which as you might imagine is wonderfully fluffy.
As well as being real showstoppers, sunflowers will provide your local birds and pollinating insects with a source of food. Sunflowers are perfect plants to grow with kids too. My step-by-step guide to growing sunflowers in pots includes planting advice, care tips and good varieties to grow.
Nigella
Nigella is a truly low-maintenance plant for outdoor pots. You literally scatter the *seeds on the soil, and leave them to grow. Nigella likes to seed itself around the garden, so you may well find more plants growing next year with zero effort from you.
Nasturtium
*Nasturtiums are ideal plants for hanging baskets and pots, providing a bright shot of colour throughout summer. They will tolerate poor soil and cope with whatever space you give them, and as an added bonus the flowers are edible.
Wildflowers
Don’t assume that you need a huge meadow to grow wildflowers. Even a small pot of *wildflowers can provide a rich habitat for local wildlife and a beautiful cottage-garden style display of blooms. Wildflowers are ridiculously low-maintenance too; scatter the seeds, rake them in lightly, water, and that’s it. If you’d like to grow them with the kids, check out my post on growing wildflowers.
Coleus
For striking foliage, you can’t beat coleus. They look brilliant planted together, or used as accents in a mixed container. Some varieties prefer sun and some prefer shade, so check the label before you buy. You can have a go at turning coleus into a houseplant over winter, moving it back into the garden once all chance of frost has gone.
Cineraria
Another fantastic foliage plant for containers, cineraria has beautiful silvery leaves that work really well against pink and purple flowers. Pretty much every container in my garden has cineraria in it! If your garden is in a sheltered spot, the plants may well survive over winter.
Ivy
Last on my list is good old ivy. It’s a trailing plant, so you can use it to extend a display over the edges of your pot, and you can choose from varieties with all-green or variegated leaves to suit your finished look. Growing ivy in containers also means you avoid the problem of it getting out of hand and taking over!
Tips for looking after potted outdoor plants
Getting the right low maintenance plants for outdoor pots is a big part of making a success of container gardens, but there are also a few other factors which will have an impact. Take a look at these simple tips for taking care of outdoor plants in pots, and you’ll be well on the way to becoming a container gardening pro.
The best containers for outdoor plants
When it comes to the actual pots you grow your plants in, there are only a couple of rules. The most important one is to make sure your pot has drainage holes in the bottom. Most plants hate to have their roots sitting in a puddle, and you can quickly kill a plant this way. If your pot doesn’t have holes, you need to either make some (a hammer and a nail do the job nicely on plastic and metal pots), or add an inner plant pot which does have drainage holes before planting.
The other key area to consider is the size of your container. Think about the number of plants you want to grow in it, and the eventual size they will reach. The plant’s label should tell you the size, or you can look it up online. Choose a size that will suit your plants for at least a year, to give them plenty of room to thrive and avoid the need to repot them regularly.
Other than that, it’s really up to you when it comes to the shape, colour, material and style of your pots. You can match the style to your existing outdoor space, or mix things up a bit. There’s also tonnes of potential to upcycle and recycle containers; old teapots, sinks, chimney pots, wellies and storage crates all work well. Just remember to add those drainage holes.
Choosing compost for plants grown in outdoor pots
Compost matters more than ever when plants are grown in pots. If you grow plants in the ground, their roots have easy access to nutrients in the soil, and aren’t restricted by the limits of a pot. In contrast, plants that are grown in containers will quickly exhaust the nutrients available to them from the compost.
For this reason, it’s always a good idea to use a good quality, *peat-free compost for your container plants. A general-purpose compost will be fine for most plants, but some plants require specific compost to help them thrive. Check your plant label for this information.
You can also buy compost that’s designed specifically to support plants grown in containers and hanging baskets. This usually has water-retaining crystals and slow-release fertiliser added. It’s not essential to use this when planting your pots, but it can help reduce the amount of plant maintenance required. If you don’t have lots of time, or tend to neglect your plants, I think it’s a good option.
For more advice on compost and container plants, head over to my guide to the best compost for pots.
Should I repot my plants after buying?
Generally, you should aim to repot your plants into your own containers as soon as you get them home. Ease the pot away from the plant, and you will probably find that the roots are quite compacted. This means the plant will benefit from a larger pot with more compost.
The exception to this rule is when you buy plants that are already potted into an ornamental pot, or a pre-planted container display such as a hanging basket. In both these situations, the plants should already have been provided with the right sized container.
Feeding plants growing in outdoor pots
As your container plants will use up the nutrients in the compost, you should feed them regularly to help them thrive. A general purpose plant food is a simple option, but if you’re growing fruit and veg in containers make sure you go for a plant food designed specifically for these.
Plant food is available in a few different formats. The most common is a *concentrated liquid, which you dilute according to the pack instructions and use to water your plants. You can also buy *granules which should be scattered on the surface of the soil and lightly raked in, and *ready-to-use liquid feed which you just pour into the pot. This last option is great if you’re a bit daunted by the idea of getting the feeding right, but it’s not the cheapest or most recycling-friendly choice.
If you like the idea of being self-sufficient, or are gardening on a budget, you can also make your own natural plant feed from comfrey or nettle leaves. This is a great option for organic gardening. Here’s how to do it:
Drainage for plants grown in pots
I’ve already talked about drainage in terms of holes in the bottom of your container. It’s also a good idea to pop a few stones or broken pieces of terracotta pot into the bottom before you add your compost.
If you’re thinking ‘why do I need to put rocks in the bottom of a planter?’, here’s the answer. Adding a layer of stones will increase the container’s ability to drain away excess water, which in turn helps to provide a more balanced growing environment. This is particularly important in the colder months of the year.
Watering container plants
When it comes to water, a container plant is more reliant on you than a plant that’s grown in the ground. A container will generally dry out much quicker than a garden bed, and not just because there’s a limit on the water in there. The sides of a pot are more exposed to warmer temperatures, which heats up the soil and in turn speeds up evaporation.
In warmer months, check the soil in your containers regularly. If it feels dry to touch, you need to water them. Another telltale sign is drooping plants, but ideally you should move in with the watering can before this stage.
Try to avoid watering your containers at the warmest part of the day, so you don’t lose as much water to evaporation. Watering in the early morning is ideal, and the next best option is early evening.
You could also add some *watering retaining crystals to your compost when potting up your containers. This will help to keep moisture levels more steady, and should mean you need to water your pots less frequently.
In colder months, you may not need to water your containers at all, but it’s still worth checking the soil regularly.
How to keep container plants flowering for longer
Having invested time and money in your plants for outdoor pots, it makes sense to try and get the best display out of them for as long as possible. Deadheading is a simple way to do just that.
Deadheading involves removing any flowers that are drooping, dead, or forming seed heads. Doing this stops the plant setting seed, and makes it produce more flowers instead.
To deadhead your plants, you simply pinch or snip off the old flower heads. You can use your fingers, but a pair of *snips will make the job a lot quicker.
Try to deadhead your plants regularly for the best results.
The best tools for growing plants in containers
Container gardening doesn’t require much in the way of garden tools and equipment. Having said that, there are a few items that will make life easier.
As well as containers, it’s a good idea to buy a *hand trowel. You can use this for the majority of your planting and re-potting jobs, and it’s also handy for weeding.
I’d also recommend a decent pair of *gardening gloves to protect your hands. Look for a pair that you can move properly in while wearing them – it sounds obvious, but not every pair will be a good fit.
I think a *watering can is also an essential piece of kit. Choose one with a ‘rose’ head attachment, this will help to avoid washing away the top layer of compost in your pots with a big gush of water. I actually like to use my daughter’s *mini watering can for my smaller containers, because it makes it even easier to control the flow.
Finally, a pair of *secateurs will come in handy for pruning and deadheading.
This is really all the kit you need to grow plants in containers. You are of course more than welcome to get carried away with all manner of extra gadgets if you’d like to!
A checklist for low maintenance outdoor potted plants
Here’s a quick checklist to help you grow beautiful outdoor plants in pots:
Right plant, right place: choose plants that suit the conditions in your garden (sunny spot, partial shade, direct sunlight, indirect light, low light, full sun exposure, shady spot, dry conditions etc.)
Annual plants grow, flower and die in one growing season; perennial plants grow year after year.
Use our list of great container plants to select your favourite plants; they all require little maintenance. Popular flowering plants for pots, herbaceous perennials, evergreen plants, drought-tolerant plants, dwarf varieties, colourful flowers, taller plants and foliage plants are all included.
Make sure your container has drainage holes in the bottom of the pot.
When choosing pot size, think about the number of young plants in it, and how big they will eventually grow. A large plant needs a large pot; small plants will be happy in small pots.
Use good quality peat-free compost for outdoor container plants. Aim for well-draining soil.
Check how dry the soil is regularly, and water if necessary. Aim for regular watering and moist soil.
Feed your container plants regularly with a general purpose plant food. This can be concentrated liquid, water-soluble fertiliser, or ready-to-pour.
Deadhead your plants to encourage more beautiful flowers.
Good choice gardening tools for container growing: hand trowel, gardening gloves, watering can and secateurs.
More gardening inspiration
If you’d like to explore some other gardening projects and ideas, take a look at these posts.
I hope this guide to the best low-maintenance plants for outdoor pots has given you lots of container gardening ideas and inspiration, and helps you to create a beautiful container display. What container plants are top of your wish list?
If you’ve enjoyed this post and found it useful, here are some ways you can say thanks and support Growing Family:
The best laid plans for the garden are usually made in the dead of winter, when short days give us long, cozy evenings to dream up a new project or pore over seed catalogues in anticipation of next summer’s borders. In a similar way, it’s a good time to make some resolutions and to implement changes to not only what you’ll plant but how you’ll maintain it all, too. Here then are some of my garden resolutions for 2024.
1. Keep a garden notebook.
Above: Making a note of key flowers to grow with floral designer Milli Proust’s cottage window. Photograph by Eva Nemeth, from Milli’s debut book From Seed to Bloom.
How many times do you make a mental note and then very swiftly forget all about it? In the garden it’s all too easy to forget six months later, say, the exact position where you wanted to plant a swathe of spring bulbs, or the spot you were hoping to relocate a plant, or the name of the shrub you wanted to buy. A notebook is arguably the most underestimated tool for the gardener; making notes, lists, and sketches through the gardening year, both in your own garden and when visiting others, will keep plant names and plans all in one place.
2. Ditch the impulsive plant shopping.
Above: South Wood Farm in Devon, England, designed by Arne Maynard. Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer.
In my garden there is always a table through the growing season of plants that have not yet found their spot—a collection of impulse purchases, bought during over-excited, under-planned visits to the plant nursery, that are then neglected there was never a set plan for them. As the season comes and goes, those plants stay on the table, an embarrassing reminder of my failure to properly plan. So this year I’m vowing to eradicate this habit and buy only the plants I already have a spot for.
3. Make more space for messiness.
Above: The dovecote at Old-Lands in Wales. Photograph by Britt Willoughby Dyer.
As my garden margins have become messier—with nettles, brambles, wildflowers and weeds—the insect and bird life has boomed. It doesn’t take much to create habitats for wildlife: Undisturbed corners, dead hedges, log piles, fallen wood, leaf mounds will all provide useful hiding places and habitats for the creatures that are fundamental to the health and life of your garden. By leaving a variety of weeds to grow, you will also boost biodiversity too.
I can get a bit lazy in my approach to the annual mulch, but this past summer, while comparing my borders to pictures taken a few years ago, it became clear that it needed a significant boost come winter. I expect a lot from my garden, which features borders planted successionally so that there is something always in flower from late winter right through until November, and a rich mulch with organic matter will give it much needed nutrients for the growing season ahead. As I have very sandy, free draining soil in my garden, I prefer a rich mulch, either manure or Dalefoot’s Double Strength compost; both, of course, are peat-free.
5. Invest in naturalizing bulbs.
Above: Narcissus ‘Pheasant’s Eye’ is planted in swathes in the meadow at Sissinghurst Castle, Kent. Photograph by Clare Coulson.
