Chitting potatoes is a simple process that involves pre-sprouting your seed potatoes before planting. Chitting your potatoes will encourage them to produce more shoots and ultimately provide a better yield.
Why Chit Potatoes?
Potatoes are typically grown from seed potatoes rather than actual seeds. Seed potatoes are small potatoes specifically grown to be planted as a crop. Chitting the potatoes before planting allows you to encourage them to produce more shoots, resulting in a more abundant harvest.
Select a cool, dry location with plenty of light. I chit my potatoes under a grow light in my seed starting station or near a sunny window.
Lay your seed potatoes out in a single layer with the eyes facing upwards. The eyes are the indentation on the potato where sprouts and roots will begin to grow.
After a few weeks, sprouts emerge from the eyes. The sprouts will start to grow long and thin; keep them well-lit, and prevent them from being damaged or broken.
Discard potatoes that are rotten or very soft.
When to plant chitted potatoes
After the sprouts are approximately 1 inch (3-4 cm) long, it is time to plant your potatoes.
If your seed potatoes are large, cut them in half after chitting. Ensure each half is at least as large as an egg and has 2-3 sprouts. After cutting the potatoes, let the skin dry and form a protective layer.
What about sweet potatoes? The Differences Between Growing Sweet Potatoes and Regular Potatoes
Sweet and regular potatoes might appear similar, but their growth habits and planting requirements differ. While potatoes grow from the sprouts on the potato, sweet potatoes are grown from slips that are removed and then planted. Slips are small plants that grow off of a mature sweet potato. Learn how to make sweet potato slips in this blog post.
Chitting potatoes is a simple yet essential step in potato planting. It allows you to encourage your seed potatoes to produce more shoots, ultimately resulting in a more abundant crop.
Research sources:
A study published in Springer found that the duration of chitting significantly decreased the days to emergence and tuberization, suggesting an earlier harvest time. Another study also found that chitting could give higher yields earlier in the season before late blight ended crop growth Springer.
Another research on Cambridge Core reported that chitting seed potatoes at Craibstone increased yields. However, it’s also worth noting that while chitting can increase yields at early harvest, yield can be reduced later Springer.
Furthermore, a study indicated that using chitting/pre-sprouting, especially using more blight-resistant main crop potato varieties, can further reduce foliar blight severity and increase yields ScienceDirect.
Research published in Journal. fi made the early growth faster and decreased the number of stems per seed, which could influence the overall yield.
Finally, a study found that efforts to increase tuber yield should focus on reducing the time to emergence, suggesting that chitting could play a role in this Luke.fi.
In summary, while the results may vary based on various factors, chitting can reduce harvest time and increase yield in certain circumstances. However, more research might be needed to fully understand the impacts and how they may vary under different conditions.
Are you having trouble keeping your garden healthy and productive? Use this list of ten essential daily gardening tasks to take your garden from struggling to thriving.
It’s easy to focus on the big tasks that need to be done in the garden. However, it is often the small simple things we do on a daily basis that will have the biggest impact on the health of our garden.
Garden Care Schedule for your Daily Gardening Routine:
1. Check the watering
Struggling = Overwatered plants have saturated soil and grow slowly. Underwatered plants are wilted with yellowing dried leaves.
Thriving = Plants that are watered correctly are healthy and grow well. They are less stressed and less prone to pests & disease.
Don’t assume your garden needs watering; first, check the soil. Put a finger in the soil; if it comes up with soil on it, wait before watering. If your finger is dry, it’s time to water.
Three key tips for watering:
Newly planted seeds or seedlings will need watering more often until they get established.
Watering in the morning helps hydrate plants for the day.
Try to be in the garden when the water is running. You’ll spot leaks and broken timers and emitters that way, too.
2. Thin seedlings
Struggling = Too many seedlings too close together crowd each other out and compete for sunlight and nutrients. None of them grow well.
Thriving = Each seedling has enough room. Seedlings grow quickly and get established.
After planting seeds, thin them early and often. Young seedlings will grow and thrive when given enough room. Check mature spacing guidelines and square foot spacing in this blog post.
3. Keep up with pruning and deadheading
Struggling = Tasks build up, and they become overwhelming. You don’t know where to begin. There is too much to do! Suckers grow large and take energy away from growing plants.
Keep flowers deadheaded
Thriving = Daily pruning and cleaning up keeps tasks manageable. Plants are healthy and productive.
Prune off suckers from tomato plants
I always have my favorite pruners when I head out to the garden each morning. If you see something that needs to be pruned or cleaned up, do it right away. Plants are healthier and happier when kept in check and cleaned up. Essential garden tasks include:
Struggling = You’re afraid to check the garden because of the pests. Squash bugs are multi-generational and out of control. You have to pull plants to prevent infestations from spreading.
If you see holes in your leaves, look for a pest on the backside of the leaf
Thriving = Daily checks on the undersides of leaves for problem pests keep numbers in check. Soapy water nearby makes it easy to dispose of problem pests. You see signs of beneficial insects and understand how they can help.
Use apps to help you identify pests
Make it a point to observe nature during your daily gardening routine. This doesn’t mean reaching for a spray bottle, every time you see a bug. However, it’s important to be aware of what is happening in your garden. Apps like “Seek” help identify which bugs are in your garden. Read this post to learn more about organic pest control options.
Look for holes, check the undersides of leaves, check around plants, and check new seedlings.
Pay attention to the patterns of pests/beneficial insects throughout the year.
5. Learn to spot the first signs of disease in your garden
Struggling = Plants are overtaken with disease and have to be pulled. Garden diseases build up in your soil and come back each season.
Thriving = You remove diseased leaves as soon as you see them and then monitor that plant closely. You clean your tools each time you use them to prevent the spread of diseases.
Clean tools and wash hands after pruning diseased plants
Removing affected leaves is often a good first step in treating garden diseases. Daily observation will help you know what further treatment steps are needed if the problem progresses.
Catching problems when small helps keep them under control and prevents spreading to the rest of your garden. Clean tools meticulously and dispose of any leaves in the garbage, not compost.
10 Essential Garden Tasks to Take Your Garden from Struggling to Thriving (continued)
6. Help your plants find the trellises
Struggling = Plants are overgrown with unruly branches that break when you train them to the trellis.
Thriving = You give young plants and branches a nudge or clip them in place as they grow, and they happily climb trellises.
Vertical gardening keeps plants healthier and more productive, but if the plant doesn’t find the trellis, it can’t climb. Other plants must be clipped to or woven up the trellis. Larger branches are less pliable and may break, but young growth is easy to train.
7. Look at the blossoms. Do you need to hand-pollinate anything?
Struggling = Female blossoms wither and die because they aren’t pollinated. Fruits do not mature before the season ends.
Thriving = You are in the garden when blossoms open and hand-pollinate as needed to ensure fruits form on squash, cantaloupe, and other plants.
A bonus tip: Plant flowers and allow herbs to flower to attract pollinators so you won’t have to hand-pollinate as often.
9. Check on vermicomposting and composting bins
Struggling = Plants aren’t growing well.
Thriving = You add food scraps and yard waste to composting bins and amend your beds regularly.
The best fertilizer for plants is fresh worm castings and compost from your vermicomposting and compost bins. Daily attention to this essential gardening task will keep them producing worm castings and compost to add to your garden.
Vermicomposting bins: Collect kitchen scraps. Check on 1-2 bins daily to monitor worms’ health. Add scraps or harvest finished worm castings as needed—Spread and water in castings. Take note of where you need to add more food scraps. Learn more about in-bed vermicomposting in this blog post.
Struggling = Fruit is left on the vine and gets rotten, attracting pests. Vegetables become tough or overgrown, and production slows down.
Thriving = You harvest as needed daily and incorporate that food into your daily diet and menus.
When you go out to the garden, bring a basket with you, and when something is ready to be picked, pick it! Pick young and pick often to encourage production. Monitor crops that usually get damaged by birds or pests and harvest early or put barrier methods in place before they ripen.
10. Enjoy being in the garden
Struggling = Being in the garden stresses you out because there is so much work!
Thriving = You look around and feel content about what you accomplished. You realize that daily, consistent efforts are better for your garden and easier for you!
Create a spot to rest, relax, and observe the beauty and wildlife as part of your daily garden routine. There may always be work that can be done. However, if you spend a little time each day, those tasks won’t overwhelm you. Instead of dreading it, you will look forward to time in the garden.
If you’re in a climate with intense summer sun, you may want to provide shade during the hottest months. This is similar to applying “sunscreen” on your plants. If you’re wondering how to create shade in your garden, this blog post gives ideas for some practical ways to create shade in your garden.
Adding shade to a hot summer garden can help your garden survive and thrive. This article also covers which vegetables need shade and which can grow in full sun. Finally, we will cover what type of shade cloth is best and other ways to add shade to your garden. So let’s get to it – all about adding shade to the garden.
If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, here it is 50% White Shade Cloth.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Why is it important to add shade in hot summer climates?
1. Adding shade protects plants from the scorching sun.
Sunscald on a pepper
The morning sun provides plenty of energy through photosynthesis without the excessive heat stress of prolonged all-day sun exposure.
Sunscald on a tomato
In sweltering heat, direct sunlight can cause wilting, sunburn, and even death in some plants. Most vegetables are stressed when temperatures are above 90℉ (32.2°C). Shade keeps the direct sun off foliage; the shaded area can be about 10℉ (6°C) cooler than areas without shade.
Winter squash wilted from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat
2. Adding shade conserves water.
A shaded garden helps retain moisture in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering. Providing shade for plants can lower the amount of moisture loss through transpiration (evaporation of water from plant leaves).
Wilted summer squash from loss of moisture during the afternoon heat
3. Adding shade creates a comfortable outdoor space.
A well-shaded garden benefits plants and makes spending time in the garden more enjoyable. Spending time in your garden daily is essential, and the shade benefits the gardener and the garden.
When should you add shade to your summer garden?
The best time to set up your shade cloth is when temperatures consistently climb above 90°F (32.2°C), and keep it on until temperatures get below that. At this point, most plants tend to enter a dormancy-like state to conserve water and protect themselves from heat stress.
For me, in the low desert of Arizona, this usually means using shade cloth from mid-May to early October.
A tip to remember: Although summer gardens in hot climates need shade in the hottest months of the year, abundant sunshine is an advantage during cooler months. Because most fall and winter gardens need full sun, it’s best to add temporary (not permanent) shade to the garden for the hottest months of the year.
Which vegetables grow best with afternoon shade?
When planning your vegetable garden, it’s important to take into account each plant’s sunlight preferences to ensure a thriving and productive garden. While all vegetables can benefit from some afternoon shade in hot summer climates, certain plants are particularly sensitive to the sun’s intense rays and should be given extra shade if you live in a hot climate.
Many vegetables do not like the extreme heat of an Arizona (or other hot climate) summer. Provide shade for the listed crops as temperatures begin to heat up to extend the harvest. Adding shade can extend the growing season for certain crops allowing them to produce for a longer period, even when temperatures begin to climb.
Fortunately, certain vegetables can withstand and flourish in the summer heat without the need for extra shade. These vegetables thrive in full sunlight. However, it is important to note that during the hottest times of the day, all plants can benefit from shade in extremely hot summer weather.
Gardening in a hot climate means learning to work with sunlight effectively. “Full-sun” directions for other locations may not apply in Arizona’s low desert or other hot climates. Providing shade for your sun-sensitive veggies is essential, and there are many creative ways to do that. Here are a few of my favorite methods:
1. Create shade in the garden with a thoughtful garden design
Notice which areas in your yard receive morning sun and afternoon shade naturally. These spots are prime real estate for any plants, but especially a summer garden. Use these areas in your garden for vegetables that need shade. South or west-facing parts of your yard will probably need added shade.
2. Create shade in the garden with shade cloth
If your garden area is in full sun, consider adding shade cloth. Don’t think of completely encasing the garden, but providing some relief when the sun is at its highest. The area should receive some sun during the day. The variety of colors and percentages in shade cloth allows you to customize the light that reaches your garden.
Using a shade cloth is a game-changer for me. It’s an easy, adjustable solution to protect my delicate veggies from scorching sunrays while allowing enough sunlight to grow.
Which color shade cloth should I use?
When choosing a shade cloth for your garden, consider the temperature differences between night and day as well as the average temperature in your area to determine which color is best suited for your needs.
White shade clothreflects light & heat and cools better. Allows for flowering plants to produce. This is the type I use in my low desert Arizona garden.
Aluminet shade clothreflects light. Increases full spectrum light. It can act as a thermal blanket, protecting plants from wide temperature variances from day to night.
If you’re looking for the link to the shade cloth I use, here it is 50% White Shade Cloth.
How far away should the shade cloth be from plants?
Do not allow the shade cloth to touch the plants; 2-3 feet clearance is best to allow air to circulate around plants.
What is the best way to attach shade cloth?
Attach shade cloth to existing trellises with zip ties or carabiner clips. At the end of the season, removing the clips, rolling up the shade cloth, and storing it away is simple. When the summer heat comes again, re-attach the shade cloth.
3. Create shade in the garden with sunflowers
Add sunflowers around your garden to provide shade. Sunflowers are one of the easiest plants to grow from seed. Sunflowers grow quickly and, depending on the variety can offer shade to surrounding plants.
Plant sunflowers on the west or south side of the garden for shade. Once grown in a garden, they often reseed and pop up year after year. Unwanted volunteers are easy to pull out.
At the end of the season, cut off the stem at the base of the dirt rather than pulling out the entire root system. The remaining root will decompose and add organic matter to the area. Sunflowers can be planted in the low desert of Arizona from February through July.
4. Create shade in the garden with umbrellas
Outdoor umbrellas offer good temporary shade. They can be moved and angled to provide afternoon shade where it is needed most. However, umbrellas often block 100% of sunlight; be sure to tilt it so plants receive some morning sun. As with any shade structure, be aware of strong winds and take down the umbrella before it tips over and damages surrounding plants.
5. Create shade in the garden with plants
Consider purposely planting sun-loving vining vegetables (Armenian cucumbers, Malabar spinach, hyacinth beans, etc.) to provide shade for other plants that don’t tolerate full sun. Notice where in your garden you could utilize plants as shade.
Vining vegetables can be grown over artichoke crowns that go dormant during hot summers to protect them from the intense heat that might damage the crowns. Grow heat-loving plants on the south or west-facing trellises that shade other plants.
Other ideas for adding shade:
Here are some pictures I took from my previous gardens or other gardens that have added shade. You may get some ideas or inspiration to implement in your own garden.
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Zach at Arizona Worm Farm created a “forest of fruit trees” that he can pick fruit from every day of the year. In this post, he shares his 4-step permaculture method for how to fertilize fruit trees organically. This method replicates what the trees get in a forest, producing healthy trees with more fruit.
One of our goals at the Arizona Worm Farm is to create a “forest of fruit trees” where there is something bearing fruit every day of the year.
Some of the most dense, healthy plant growth on the planet is in forests. Who fertilizes those plants? Mother Nature! What we try to do here on our farm and in our yards is (as much as we possibly can) mimic the aspects of the forest that promote healthy, hearty growth and produce an abundance of fruit.
How do we create a forest environment in the desert?
Let’s start with a definition: In soil biology, detritus is dead organic material. Detritus in the forest typically includes the bodies or fragments of dead organisms and plants and their waste. Detritus typically hosts communities of microorganisms that colonize and decompose it.
Most of us don’t have animals roaming our properties that will poop or die, and few of us have enough trees to shed enough leaves to mimic a forest. In an urban environment, detritus is replaced quite nicely with compost.
Compost pile being turned at Arizona Worm Farm
To mimic nature and fertilize fruit trees organically, we need:
The detritus that falls from the trees and plants and animals.
The living micro and macro-organisms in the soil that convert that detritus to food for our trees.
A dense covering on the ground to prevent evaporation and erosion while providing a habitat for the living organisms that make this all work.
Before you begin:
A pre-step: first, create a berm (about 6 inches high) at the dripline of your tree. That’s the line where if you sprayed water on your tree, the water would drip. If it is a very young tree, go to where you guess the dripline will be in three years.
4 Simple steps to fertilize fruit trees organically
How do we achieve forest-level success in our desert environment? It is surprisingly easy and consists of four steps.
Step One: Add microbes to feed your fruit trees organically
How to add microbes:
Worm castings or worm castings tea is the best way to add microbes in large numbers. Worm castings (or aerated tea made from the castings) create or join a soil ecosystem already full of bacteria, protozoa, amoeba, fungi, and nematodes.
A teaspoon of good, active garden soil, according to microbial geneticists, contains a billion bacteria, several yards of fungal hyphae, several thousand protozoa, and a few dozen nematodes. By adding worm casts to this equation, you boost the soil ecosystem and help it flourish.
Microbes (which you boost by adding worm castings) are the ultimate organic fertilizer. These microbes are the opposite of chemical pesticides that poison and kill everything in the soil in the name of abundant yields.
Worm castings
How many worm castings to add:
Scientifically, the perfect amount of castings is 5% – too little, and you won’t get the abundance of microbes we are looking for; too much, and you are just wasting money. It is easy to measure 5% when we mix a raised bed mix, but it is harder for a tree.
Our “rule of thumb” is about a cup of worm castings per three feet of tree height. My personal favorite advice is “toss a couple of handfuls.”
How to add the castings:
Spread castings around the base of the tree, right on top of the soil.
If you have access to good aerated worm castings tea (either from someplace like The Arizona Worm Farm that makes it or from your own tea brewer), it can be used in place of castings.
Step Two: Add lots of compost to fertilize fruit trees organically
In urban areas where we don’t get natural detritus, we add compost.
Compost at Arizona Worm Farm
What kind of compost is best for fertilizing fruit trees?
The best compost is the compost you make yourself in your own yard using your own yard waste – it will have the nutrients your trees used to grow initially. The second best is to get a diverse combination of composts from companies that make good compost. Generally, the easiest way to do that is to buy most of your compost from someplace you trust and then add a bag or two of different composts.
How much compost should I use to fertilize my fruit trees?
We recommend one cubic foot of compost per three feet of tree height – but there’s not really such a thing as too much compost. It is safe to fill the water well (that area you created with your berm) with an inch or two of compost all the way out to the dripline.
Step Three: Cover with a thick layer of mulch
Why should I add mulch when feeding my fruit trees?
Mulch is your tree’s best friend, especially in our hot, dry climate. Most importantly, mulch is an awesome habitat for microbes.
As mulch slowly decomposes, it adds carbon to your soil.
How much mulch should I use?
We recommend you fill the rest of the water well with mulch. There is almost no such thing as “too much” mulch. Generally, aim to use at least 3-6 inches (7-15cm) of mulch. One foot of mulch is not too much.
Step Four: Water trees deeply to encourage deep roots
For healthy tree growth, we want deep, healthy roots. Shallow watering (usually the result of a tree in a lawn that gets watered a couple of minutes several times a day) will encourage shallow roots. Trees that fall over or have no ability to pull water from deep underground in the summer are the result of shallow roots.
How much water does a fruit tree need?
There is a standard rule arborists like to use: “About 10 gallons per 1 inch of trunk diameter per week”. Trial and observation will help you get it right.
How to water fruit trees:
After fertilizing your fruit trees, fill the water well with water (the mulch will float, but it will stay in place). Water slowly, allowing the water to seep into the soil rather than run off. Aim to water to a depth of at least 2 feet.
Watch your tree. After watering, the tree’s leaves should look healthy and green for anywhere from 7 to 21 days, depending on the outside temperatures and humidity.
When you see a bit of a leaf droop, it is time to water again. If you are uncertain, dig down 10-12 inches and see if the ground is still moist. Water only when it is dry to that depth. This will encourage deep roots, which help stabilize the tree.
How often should you fertilize fruit trees?
The basic rule is three times a year: Valentine’s Day, Labor Day, and Memorial Day. These days are usually recommended because they are the start of the three growing seasons in most places. They are also easy to remember.
The best answer is “when your trees need it.” If you observe your trees, you will start to see the compost and the mulch disappearing. This means it has been converted into food by the microbes. It is time to add more food for the microbes when what was there is mostly gone.
You can add worm castings more frequently and aerated teas as often as monthly. We find more than quarterly is probably not needed.
Worm castings tea
Do I need to pull back the mulch before I feed the trees again?
No. When you repeat these steps, don’t remove anything (don’t push the mulch aside or move compost). Add the same layers on top of the previous layers. Water and the natural cycles will get the levels straight, and we don’t want to disturb micro or macro-organisms.
Some other things matter – like appropriate placement, proper pruning (less is usually better), monitoring for pests, and adding shade when trees are young. But, if you get the four steps for organically feeding fruit trees consistently correct, you will have happy, healthy trees that reward you with lots of fruit.
Arizona Worm Farm is an excellent place to get all the products needed to feed your fruit tree forest organically. They have worm castings, compost, mulch, and worm castings tea available for purchase and delivery.
If you would like to see the Arizona Worm Farm fruit tree forest in person, they offer free public, guided, and VIP tours during regular business hours. See their website for more information.
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What grows in low desert Arizona gardens in January? I’ll show you. All of these pictures come from my garden in Mesa, Arizona.
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
We garden in many parts of Arizona year-round, but we can’t grow everything all year. Take a look at what’s growing this month, and let me know what’s growing in your garden in the comments.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
“Anyone who thinks gardening begins in the spring and ends in the fall is missing the best part of the whole year. For gardening begins in January with the dream.”
– Josephine Nuese
Low Desert Arizona Garden in January
January is often the coldest time in the low desert Arizona garden. Although colder, it doesn’t mean you should stay inside this month. There are important garden tasks that need to be done this month, such as pruning roses and fruit trees (see a list of garden tasks for January below). Harvests from fall plantings continue throughout the month as you plan for your spring and summer garden.
Keep reading for garden inspiration, a January garden checklist, and a list of vegetables, herbs, and flowers to plant in your Arizona garden in January.
Vegetables growing in the low desert Arizona garden in January
Kaleis a superstar in the Arizona garden in January. Keep harvesting for a continuous supply. Frosty nights will sweeten the taste of kale. Grow several varieties of kale in your garden.
Broccoli harvests begin in earnest this month. Hopefully, you succession planted to have a continuous harvest all month. Plant transplants through the end of January.
Carrotsplanted in September and October are ready to harvest. Plant carrots through the end of March. Be sure to thin carrots for large, delicious carrots.
If you aren’t growing asparagus, consider dedicating a 4-foot by 4-foot raised bed. January is a great time to plant asparagus.
If you are growing asparagus, January is the time to cut back the dormant fronds and amend the bed with a 5-inch layer of compost.
Tips for growing flowers in the low desert Arizona garden in January
Cool-season annual flowers and wildflowers planted from September through December are beginning to bloom this month and should continue blooming through March. Thin seedlings if they emerge in clumps. Water cool-season annuals 4 to 6 inches deep about once a week.
Want better blooms on your seed-grown annuals? Thin them to where each plant’s leaves are touching one another when the plant is 3-4 inches tall.
Most annuals will do well in our cooler winter and spring seasons when chosen carefully. As temperatures heat up, these cool season annuals will die. Keep a garden journal of what worked in the past and what didn’t.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Fruit trees in the low desert Arizona garden in January
Plant bare-root fruit trees this month. Look for trees that have low chill hours (less than 400), mature early, and self-pollinate.
Deciduous fruit trees should be pruned before bud break this month.
Blood oranges and grapefruit citrus are ripening this month. Best way to test for sweetness? Pick one and try it! Water established citrus once every 3-4 weeks in January.
Trying to decide which variety to plant next month? This article will help you decide.
Herbs in the low desert Arizona garden in January
Garlic chives are a reliable perennial herb in Arizona. Consider finding a spot to tuck them in and around your garden this month. If you have garlic chives in your garden, January is a good time to cut back and divide the overgrown clumps.
If you didn’t start seeds indoors for tomatoes, eggplant, melons and peppers in December, get them started this month. The seedlings will be ready to be planted by February or March.
Continue planning for February and March plantings. This is seed catalog season; get ideas you would like to try and order seeds. My favorite seed companies with great catalogs are Baker Creek Seeds, Botanical Interests, and Seed Saver Exchange. Look at your garden and plan where you will plant everything. Research different varieties to see which do well in Arizona. A good rule of thumb is to look for short-season crops. Be sure to rotate where you plant each year.
Plant pre-chilled (at least 6 weeks in fridge) tulip and hyacinth bulbs this month.
Plant cold-tolerant trees, bushes, and perennials and protect new plants from freezing temperatures.
January in Arizona is a good time to plant deciduous fruit trees. Look for varieties that require less than 400 chill hours, have early maturing fruit, and are self-pollinating.
Bare-root roses are in-stock at local nurseries – it’s a great time to plant roses.
This is the last month to plant strawberries. Space strawberries 12 inches apart. Plant strawberries with crown of plant above soil line. Mulch and water strawberries well.
January in the low desert of Arizona is a good month to propagate succulents so they establish roots before summer heat.
Wait until mid-to-late February to plant frost-sensitive plants such as lantana and hibiscus.
Begin planting blackberries at the end of the month.
Watering:
If we get heavy rain, trees and shrubs may not need supplemental watering. If not, water shrubs and trees no more than once every 14-28 days.Wateruseitwisely.com is a helpful resource for landscape watering guidelines.
Do not over-water annual plants this month. Water to a depth of about 6 inches, and allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Water established citrus trees once every 3-4 weeks.
Water established fruit trees once every 10-14 days.
Pruning:
Frost-tender plants such as hibiscus and lantana should not be pruned this month.
Prune established roses this month. Clean up all fallen leaves and debris around roses to discourage disease and insects.
Prune dead branches out of cold-hardy trees and shrubs.
If deciduous fruit trees have been slow to drop leaves, remove any remaining leaves to encourage dormancy.
Deciduous fruit trees should be pruned before bud break this month. Prune dead, diseased, broken and crossing branches and water sprouts (branches shooting straight up from limbs of trees). Consider treating fruit trees with horticultural oil before bud break as well.
Fertilize established fig trees in January. Aged manure is a wonderful way to feed figs.
Protect from freezing temperatures (below 32° F):
Have burlap or frost cloth on hand to protect newly planted citrus, small lemon and lime trees, and other frost-sensitive plants from frost.
Plants in containers are more susceptible to freezing temperatures than ground ones.
If freezing temperatures are expected, water citrus trees deeply to help protect them from frost.
Yard clean-up:
Clean-up around fruit trees. Decayed fruit is inviting for pests.
Consider leaving the leaves in place. If you do rake up the leaves, then save them. Bag leaves and let them decompose; then spread them on plants as leaf mulch in spring. If you compost, they are a great addition to the compost pile.
What to plant in the Arizona garden in January:
Vegetables, Herbs & Fruit to plant in the low desert in January
(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed T= Transplant
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
Vegetable, herb, and fruit seeds to start indoors during January
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Flowers to plant in the low desert in January
(Click the link to read “How to Grow” articles on my website.)
Flower seeds to start indoors in the low desert in January
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Vegetable, Herb, and Fruit Planting Guide for the Low Desert of Arizona
The ultimate resource for gardeners in arid regions with hot summers and mild winters—designed specifically for the low desert of Arizona (Zone 9b/10a). It features information on how and when to start seeds indoors and when to transplant them outside for nearly 100 different fruits, vegetables, and herbs.
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Starting a garden on a budget does not have to be daunting. Here are 12 simple ways that can help you start your garden without breaking the bank:
1. Start Small:
To minimize costs and workload, begin with a small sunken bed or container garden. It’s easier to expand later as your confidence grows. A sunken bed has minimal start-up cost and can be a very effective way to garden. To learn more, read this post about sunken-bed gardening.
2. Reuse and Recycle:
Use items you already have around the house when starting your garden. Old containers, cement blocks, and bathtubs can be used as planters to save money. Think outside the garden box and use the ideas in this blog post about creative container gardening.
3. Swap Seeds and Plants:
Swap seeds or cuttings with friends, neighbors, or online communities. This way, you can get a variety of plants for free. Seed packages often contain more seeds than you will use. Split packages with friends. Learn how to save seeds so you always have some to share. Local libraries often have seed libraries where you can check out seeds for free!
Starting a garden on a budget? Take advantage of local seed libraries!
4. Make Your Own Compost:
Composting kitchen scraps and yard waste will save money on soil amendments and fertilizers. This can be daunting at first, but begin composting kitchen scraps with in-bed vermicomposting. If you have a large amount of yard waste, learn how to compost in this blog post.
5. Choose Perennials When Starting Your Garden on a Budget:
Perennials come back year after year, saving you money in the long run. Some of my favorite perennials are asparagus, artichokes, and strawberries. Learn more about growing perennials in this blog post.
6. Grow from Seeds to Save Money Gardening:
Growing plants from seeds is cheaper than buying seedlings or mature plants. Don’t be intimidated by starting plants from seed. If they have good soil and you start them at the right time, seeds will grow!
7. Use Mulch:
Mulch reduces the need for watering and weeding, which can save both time and money. Places like Chipdrop provide gardeners with free woodchips. Learn more about how to use mulch.
8. DIY Vertical Garden Structures:
Building your own trellises, cages, and supports instead of buying them is a simple way to start a garden on a budget. Look around your house or garage and repurpose a ladder or other items. If you want to learn more, read this post about creative vertical gardening ideas.
9. Water Wisely:
Depending on where you live, water can be an expensive part of gardening. Water in the early morning or late evening to reduce evaporation and save on your water bill. Learn other watering principles in this blog post.
10. Choose High-Yield Crops When Budget Gardening :
Starting a garden on a budget doesn’t mean you can’t grow delicious food. Grow vegetables that produce a lot of food, like tomatoes, zucchini, and beans. You’ll get large harvests with less expense.
11. Use Natural Pest Control:
Use natural methods like companion planting to control pests instead of expensive chemicals. This saves you money and is better for your garden as well. Learn more about successful companion planting principles in this blog post.
12. Learn and Experiment When Starting a Garden on a Budget:
The more you learn about gardening, the more you can save. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from your mistakes.
Remember, the key to starting a garden on a budget is creativity and resourcefulness. Happy gardening!
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The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost.
However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings?
Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:
I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.
Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.
With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps
There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.
1. Choose a location to compost
Here are a few necessities for the location:
Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in.
Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.
2. Obtain compost bins
The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.
Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin.
3. Gather the correct tools for composting
The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).
5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials
Green Materials
Brown Materials
Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful
Carbon-rich, dry
Grass clippings
Dry brown leaves
Coffee and tea grounds
Egg shells
Green garden trimmings
Hay and straw
Fruit scraps, peels
Shredded paper
Vegetable scraps, peels
Dryer lint
Green materialsBrown materials
6. Fill the bins
Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies.
Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.
7. Observe the compost
As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step.
Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up.
Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work.
Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete.
This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into.
9. Use the compost
Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.
If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.
10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost
The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.
Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes.
Troubleshooting Tips
Symptom
Problem
Solution
Many flies
Green items or food exposed to air
Cover pile with brown materials.
Wet compost – not heating up
Add more brown material
Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers.
Dry compost – not heating up
Materials may be too large, needs more green
Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
Bad odor like rotten eggs
Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted
Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
Bad odor like ammonia
Not enough brown materials
Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
Compost heats up and then cools down
Compost needs turned
Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go.
Warm only in the middle
Compost pile too small
Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
Matted layers of leaves or grass
Material won’t break down, will become slimy
Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.
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Knowing how and when to prune peppers in mild-winter climates is essential to keeping them healthy and productive for many years.
In mild-winter climates like where I live (low desert of Arizona zone 9b), pepper plants often live for many years. If left to continue growing, plants get spindly and are prone to breaking. Plants also have damage from the infrequent (but still possible) frost events or the extreme heat in the summer.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
When is the best time to prune peppers in mild-winter climates?
Bell pepper plants in February after several frost events.
The weather extremes of very hot summers and occasional frosts in the winter leave my pepper plants a little haggard. I usually prune pepper plants twice a year. Once in the spring (after the danger of frost has passed) and again in the early fall, once temperatures have dropped from the summer heat.
The September pruning of these peppers resulted in an abundant harvest in late December.
If the plants are a manageable size and healthy, you may only need to prune them once a year.
When pruning peppers, you should focus on removing any dead or damaged growth. This will help to encourage the plant to put more energy into producing fruit rather than putting effort into maintaining unhealthy foliage.
You can lightly prune all over, cutting back to just above a node each time.
What is a node?
Nodes are the points on a stem where the buds, leaves, and branching twigs originate. Identify the nodes on pepper plants by noticing where the branches divide.
If more severe pruning is necessary, cut branches to just above where you see new growth beginning, just above a node. Usually, count up from the bottom of the plant and cut just above the 2nd or 3rd node. Pruning to this point allows light to penetrate the bottom of the plant.
You can also prune back long or thin branches, which are more vulnerable to breakage and can become unwieldy.
Make sure to prune all over the plant for the best results.
After pruning, it’s important to fertilize the pepper plant with a balanced organic fertilizer and to water it well.
Within a couple of days, you should see a burst of growth with an abundance of leaves, followed by blossoms and eventually peppers.
What about pruning pepper seedlings?
Central stalk of this seedling was cut outSeveral days later you can see the new growth below the cut
Topping pepper seedlings is often done to encourage pepper plants to have more of a bush habit with stronger stems. To prune your seedlings, cut the main stem to just above a node.
Cut the central stem to just above a node when plant is several inches tallAfter “topping”
Depending on the type of pepper plant you are growing, this may or may not be necessary. Experiment with different kinds of plants in your garden to see if it improves your yield. I generally “top” most of my pepper plants. I’ve had the best results with pruning large peppers like bell peppers.
How long do pepper plants last in mild-winter climates?
When growing pepper plants, you may find that the quantity of peppers decreases after about three years of successful production. This is a sign that it is time to replace the plants. Save seeds from your favorite peppers to start new plants. Plant a new pepper seedling in a different location and enjoy fresh peppers for many years.
If you live in a mild-winter climate, pruning your peppers twice a year can keep your plants healthy and productive for many years. Good luck and happy pruning!
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Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.
In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How does vermicomposting work?
Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!
During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.
What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?
Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.
Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.
Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
Worm castings from vermicomposting
What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?
A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.
No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.
Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin
When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?
If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.
When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).
Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?
Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.
That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farmhere in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.
How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?
Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:
The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
Bin (see options below).
Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.
Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:
The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:
A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.
Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.
Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:
1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.
2. Place the bin in the hole.
3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.
5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.
6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.
7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.
8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.
9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.
10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.
How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?
I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.
You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.
Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.
Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.
What do worms eat?
Good for feeding worms
Avoid feeding worms
Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper
Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.
Greens
Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells
Browns
Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper
Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.
Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.
Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.
The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.
Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?
Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.
The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.
The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.
Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket.Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?
Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.
Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.
Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?
Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.
Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?
Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.
Question: Can you add chicken poopto the buckets?
Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.
Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?
Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.
Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?
Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.
Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?
Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.
Question:WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?
Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?
Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.
Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?
Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.
Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?
Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?
Answer:Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?
Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).
Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?
Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.
Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.
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Mulch is your secret weapon in the garden. I talk about the need to mulch your garden in nearly every blog post; mulching is that important. This post covers the benefits of mulch, what to use for mulch in different areas of your garden, and the best tips for how to use mulch in your garden.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Benefits of Mulching your Garden
1. Mulching your garden helps regulate soil temperature
Hot soil is hard on plants. Mulch keeps the sun off the soil, so the soil stays cooler. Thick mulch helps insulate it even more.
Higher soil temperatures slow plant growth, and mulch moderates that temperature.
Mulch shades the soil from the sun’s direct rays causing less temperature variation.
During cooler temps, mulch also helps insulate the soil.
2. Mulching your garden helps slow evaporation
A thick layer of mulch means that less moisture is lost through evaporation. You can then water less frequently, saving water, money, and time!
3. Mulching adds organic matter to your garden
When you add natural mulch in the form of bark, straw, or compost,they are incorporated into the soil and add nutrients and organic matter.
4. Mulching your garden helps prevent and control weeds
Mulching blocks the sunlight needed for weeds to germinate and often smothers existing weeds.
ALL OF THIS TOGETHER MEANS MORE GOOD THINGS GOING ON IN THE SOIL. Increased moisture, fewer temperature fluctuations, and more organic matter lead to more worm activity and more beneficial microorganisms in the soil. That means healthier soil and plants.
Different Types of Mulch:
Compost
Use homemade, bagged, or bulk compost. Compost is high in nutrients and has a finer texture than other mulching options.
A note about fresh animal manure; it must be aged before using it as mulch or compost in the garden.
Where to get it: I make my own and I also love the compost from Arizona Worm Farm.
Composted mulch
Larger texture than regular compost. It is typically made from landscape waste and isn’t completely broken down yet.
Where to get it: Arizona Worm Farm has this available. They call it mulch or city mulch. I also like the bagged composted mulch from A&P Nursery.
Pine needles
Pine needles are very light, airy, and easy to spread. One nice thing about pine needles is they don’t compact. Use a thick layer (3-4 inches) when using pine needles.
Pine needles may lower the pH of soil when mixed in with the soil. That may not be bad here in the low desert where our soil tends to be more alkaline. Pine needles become more pH neutral as they break down.
Straw (not hay)
(Don’t use hay as it often contains seeds). Straw is the stalk left over after grain, like barley, has been harvested. It is dry and hollow, and there is no nutrition left in it. Use a pesticide-free straw.
Gather and save all leaves when they fall. Bag leaves and allow them to begin to break down; this creates leaf mold. Use your lawnmower to run over leaves to shred them. Shredded or small leaves are better at allowing water to penetrate and don’t become matted as easily.
Bark / Wood chips
The larger texture of bark and wood chips means they last longer in the garden. They may compete for some nitrogen as the wood chips break down in garden beds.
These options for mulch are full of nutrients. Grow cover crops in beds when they would otherwise be empty. Do not use grass clippings from Bermuda grass or grass treated with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides.
Cardboard / Newspaper
Cardboard is often used as sheet mulch under beds and in pathways to help prevent weeds. Spread newspaper in beds, but top with something else like compost or soil to hold it in place.
Where to get it: Finally, something to do with all of those Amazon boxes!
Which mulch to use in your garden
Raised and in-ground garden beds:
Smaller-grade organic materials such as compost, composted mulch, shredded leaves, straw, and smaller wood chips are excellent mulch in raised garden beds.
Pathways:
Larger materials last longer in pathways and around raised beds.
Treewells:
All materials are suitable for around trees, but take care to keep mulch away from the base of the tree.
Tips for how to use mulch in your garden
Wait until plants have grown to several inches tall before applying mulch.
Keep mulch about an inch away from the stems of plants.
Add a little extra organic fertilizer below the mulch when using leaves or bark as they can take nitrogen from the soil as they break down.
If you use Garden Grids for watering like I do, put them on top of the mulch. You may have to water a little longer to penetrate the mulch layer.
Plan on applying mulch twice a year in the spring after planting (before the heat of summer), and again after fall planting.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of most mulches. Less than 2 inches doesn’t give you all the benefits, but a larger layer can be difficult for water to penetrate.
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Living in a mild-winter climate means that you may try to push the boundaries of what can be grown throughout winter. Frost and cold weather can come on quickly, and knowing what to cover in a freeze can mean the difference between life and death for some of your plants. Be prepared by gathering needed items like frost cloth and burlap before a freeze hits.
This article shares tips for protecting your warm-climate garden from freezing temperatures, such as knowing the most common times for frost, utilizing effective plant placement in your garden, and knowing what to have on hand to protect plants. These tips will give your garden the best chance of surviving freezing temperatures.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
6 Tips for Protecting Your Warm-Climate Garden from Freezing Temperatures
1. Learn when to expect freezing temperatures
An essential tool in knowing when freezing temperatures are most likely is knowing your first and last frost dates. You can look them up here using your zip code if you live in the United States.
Frost is most likely on clear, calm nights with few clouds and low humidity. Cold winds will also decrease the temperature.
During the day, the soil is warmed by the sun, and that heat is radiated throughout the night. So, the coldest temperatures of the night will occur just before dawn.
Use a minimum/maximum thermometer to measure your local temperature accurately. The reading on the weather app on your phone may not be accurate for your yard.
Light freeze: 29°F to 32°F (-1.6°C to 0°C). Tender plants are often killed.
Moderate freeze: 25°F to 28°F (-3.88°C to -2.22°C) causes damage to many plants.
Severe freeze: 24°F (-4.44°C) and colder – causes heavy damage to many plants.
2. Choose the best location in your yard for frost-tender plants
Cold air moves downslope and settles in the lowest spots. The cold spots in your yard are good for planting fruit trees that need chill hours and other cold-loving plants.
Plant frost-tender trees and plants in the warmest areas of your yard. An area with a western or southern exposure with reflected heat from a block wall will be warmer than other areas in your landscape. The heat absorbed by a block wall throughout the day will radiate during the night.
3. Understand what makes a plant have frost damage
Frost on a plant disrupts the movement of fluids within the plant and dries it out, leaving behind brown and crispy damage.
Some factors that make plants more or less susceptible to damage from freezing temperatures include:
Dormancy — A plant that is dormant will have less damage than a tree or plant that is actively growing. This is why a sudden frost early in the season will often do more damage than a frost later in the season after plants have adjusted to colder temperatures.
Watering — Well-watered plants withstand freezing temperatures better than dehydrated plants. The water in the soil also helps to insulate the soil.
Pruning — Newly-pruned areas of the plant are more susceptible to frost damage.
Newly planted — Less-established root systems of new plants are more likely to be damaged by frost.
Plants in containers — Container-grown plants are subject to higher fluctuations in temperature than in-ground plants. They are more likely to suffer damage in a freeze.
Lower temperatures, longer exposure to freezing temperatures, and rapid drops in temperature cause more damage.
Frost-damaged pepper plant
4. What to cover in a freeze and what not to cover during a freeze
Cold weather signals the end of the life cycle for many annual plants. In warm-climate areas like the low desert of Arizona, providing protection from freezing temperatures may prolong the growing season.
Peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, and basil are a few plants that, if protected from a freeze, may continue to produce and grow. Other tender plants will need to be replanted in the spring.
What to cover in a freeze: Tender — injured by a light frost (cover during a freeze or harvest before cold temperatures).
What to cover in a freeze: Protecting citrus during a freeze
Frost-damaged citrus
Freezing weather can cause severe damage to citrus trees.
Young trees are more susceptible to frost damage. Cover citrus during a freeze for the first 3-5 years after planting.
Fruit damage may occur after several hours of temperatures below 27°F (-2.7°C). Frost-damaged fruit will have a dry interior.
Wait until after the danger of frost has passed in the spring to prune frost-damaged limbs and branches.
Some citrus trees are more cold-hardy than others.
Kumquat and mandarin trees are most cold-hardy (18°F – 20℉) or (-7.7°C to -6.6°C).
Grapefruit and orange trees (tolerate to Mid 20’s℉ ) (-3.88°C)
Lemon, and especially lime trees, are the most frost-sensitive, often suffering damage at 32℉ (0°C). They are extremely frost-sensitive; choose the warmest areas of your yard for planting. Lemon and lime trees often do not go into dormancy, so frost affects them more than other citrus.
What to cover in a freeze: Frost-tender landscape plants
Frost-damaged coral vine
Many tender landscape plants will recover from light frosts but have unsightly damage if you don’t cover them. Covering tender landscape plants during a freeze may prevent damage. Don’t prune frost-damaged plants until after the danger of frost has passed in the spring.
Cover these plants during a freeze to prevent damage:
Frost-tender landscape plants include (but are not limited to): bougainvillea, some cacti, cape honeysuckle, coral vine, fairy dusters, ficus, hibiscus, lantana, natal plum, myoporum, pygmy date palms, succulents, tropical plants (avocado, banana, guava, etc.), yellow bells.
Cover the plant completely, allowing the cover to drape down to the soil all around the plant. This traps the warmth inside. Don’t gather the cover around the trunk; it won’t trap radiated heat from around the plant.
Wrap trunks of frost-sensitive trees and young trees loosely with multiple layers of cloth. This can be left in place all winter.
Use styrofoam cups to protect the growing tips of cactus.
Add heat by wrapping heat-generating light bulbs(not LED) below the foliage of the covered plants. Take care not to have bulbs burn the bark or branches.
Remove sheets or blankets in the morning after the frost thaws. Dormant plants can be brought out of dormancy by keeping the plant covers on and trapping the heat during the day. Actively-growing plants are more likely to suffer frost damage than dormant plants.
Frost cloth can be left in place for several days without harming the plant.
Cover newly planted citrus during a freeze
I put burlap on my newly planted citrus
6. What to do after a frost
Did your perennial plants suffer frost damage? Don’t prune them right away. The damaged limbs and branches protect the plant from further frost damage.
Before pruning, wait until the danger of frost is past in the spring and you begin to see new growth. Prune back to just before where the new growth begins.
Severely damaged tomatoes, peppers, and other annual plants may need removal.
I’ve spent the last year building new sunken garden beds in Southern Arizona. I live in the Sonoran Desert, about 25 miles from the Mexico border. This region is very hot from May through October. We do get monsoon rains from July through September, but it is very dry otherwise.
The heat, intense sun, and dry conditions create challenging conditions for gardening. However, it is possible to create a productive garden in the desert. I want to share how I’ve been able to do just that.
To begin, I had a few requirements:
Water Efficiency: I needed to find a way to use as little water as possible. I didn’t want to spend several hours and hundreds of dollars every month watering this new space.
Time Efficiency: I needed to find a time-efficient way to maintain my new garden. I work, so a high-maintenance garden was not for me.
Productivity – I wanted to maximize the space to grow as much as possible. This would allow me to eat fresh, organic produce in season.
That’s a tall order for a little desert garden. I began experimenting to find a way to meet all 3 of those requirements.
History of Basin Beds in the Sonoran Desert
I am fascinated by the relationship between people, plants, and places in the Southwest region. The Sonoran Desert is the most biodiverse desert on earth, and I love living here. Isn’t it amazing that 3500 species of plants, 500 species of birds, and 1,000 species of bees call this beautiful region home? I’m learning all I can about the history of this place and the people who thrived in such a beautiful yet challenging environment.
The U.S. Forest Service defines ethnobotany as “the study of how people of a particular culture and region use indigenous (native) plants.”
Through Gary Nabhan’s book, I began learning about many different gardening methods in arid climates. One of them stood out as a possibility for my garden: basin beds, also known as sunken beds.
What is a sunken garden bed or basin bed?
Basin or sunken garden beds were used by the indigenous peoples in this part of the Southwest. Basin beds function just as any traditional garden bed or raised bed, but are recessed or sunken.
Sunken beds are dug down several inches, allowing irrigation water to slowly sink in rather than run off and keep soil and roots cooler during hot seasons.
Since I didn’t have to construct a raised bed, the start-up costs were low. Using a basin-style sunken bed would help me with the water and heat challenges, but what about the time efficiency and productivity piece?
I’m sure many of you have heard of the square foot gardening method, introduced in 1981 on a wide scale when Mel Bartholomew published his book, “Square Foot Gardening.” In this book, Bartholomew introduced a straightforward method to save time, effort, and space in gardening.
Instead of long rows and wide paths between, he focused on using a 4ft by 4 ft square to grow intensively in a small space. Along with the 4×4 design, Bartholomew increased productivity through intercropping, succession planting, and amending the soil. If you haven’t read this book and want to garden in a small space, on a small budget, or with a busy life, I highly recommend it.
I combined the two methods, sunken basin beds and square foot gardening, into one hybrid method. Maybe then I could get all the benefits of each.
Sunken Garden Beds Step One: Test Your Soil
An in-ground garden bed will only be as good as its soil, so the first thing I did was take some soil samples. A local lab tested the soil to give me an idea of the soil makeup and which amendments I needed to add. I chose the “Complete Soil Test with Soil Amendment Recommendations” for $85, which included a nutrient analysis of my soil profile and amendment suggestions.
I started with a very bleak space; not much of anything was growing here, except for wild amaranth and Bermuda grass, so I was surprised when the test results came in a few days later, showing I didn’t need to amend much.
Sunken Garden Beds Step Two: Remove Unwanted Vegetation and Weeds
My chosen garden area had Bermuda grass that needed removal before installing the new beds. The simplest way to remove vegetation is to use solar energy to do the hard work, something we have plenty of in the Southwest.
Two methods create a greenhouse effect and work well for this task: solarization and occultation.
Solarization controls unwanted vegetation by covering the area with clear plastic. The 2 – 6 mil thickness plastic allows solar energy to penetrate, heating up the soil and creating a greenhouse effect that smothers the vegetation in as little as 3 weeks.
Occultation is similar to solarization but uses a black plastic tarp instead of a clear one. This process takes longer as the black material absorbs solar energy and reduces the heat passed to the vegetation. A heavy opaque plastic, called a silage tarp, is used and the process takes 4-6 weeks.
An additional benefit of both solarization and occultation is the reduction of pathogen and nematode populations in the soil below.
I used occultation and laid a thick silage tarp to cook the weeds and seeds underneath for 6 weeks. When I removed the tarp, just like magic, there was nothing but bare earth and some decomposing plant material.
Sunken Garden Beds Step Three: Make a Plan for the Space
I planned just four beds in the beginning. Every gardener knows that plans tend to grow exponentially, and I ended up with twelve beds. For now, let’s focus on those first four beds!
Sunken Garden Beds Step Four: Dig Out Beds and Add Compost
I measured out and marked an exact 4ft x 4ft square. After digging down 6 inches, I removed that soil. I mixed the native soil with compostin a 50/50 mix and then filled the beds with a little of that mixture. I ended up with a bed recessed by about 4 inches.
Now, you may be thinking…“wouldn’t doing that remove all the good soil you had tested?” The answer is…not at all! When doing a soil test, you dig down about 6 inches to the root zone, where the plant will be accessing all that goodness. That is still there once I dig out the top, so what I’m doing is adding some amendment in the form of compost to the top while leaving the soil in the root zone intact.
Sunken Garden Beds Step Five: Create Pathways Between Beds
My backyard is covered in Bermuda grass, and if you’ve ever dealt with it, you know it’s tough to eliminate. I decided to cover the ground with landscape fabric around the garden beds and then layer wood chips to smother and suppress the Bermuda grass. This was after using a silage tarp for occultation before beginning the garden project. That’s how tough it is to get rid of the stuff!
Generally, I don’t like to use landscape fabric. I think it’s best for soil health to cover the ground with a thick layer of untreated wood chips. This keeps weeds in check and adds organic matter to the soil as the wood breaks down. When planning this garden area, I made an exception.
Once the beds were dug and amended, I needed to make a square-foot garden grid. To save time in measuring, I made a template grid that I could use each time I plant a new bed. I used 4ft. green plastic garden stakes, measured and marked 1 ft sections, and fastened them with outdoor-rated zip ties that will withstand the high UV here better. Using a grid template allowed me to plant each square quickly.
I used the tons of rock around my property as a border for all of my garden beds. It’s rustic, but I’m happy with the results. Best of all, it was free!
The next step was to select varieties of plants that are well-suited to this region of southern Arizona. I start nearly all my plants from seed, but if you don’t want to sow seeds, many great organizations in the area sell arid-adapted seedlings at seasonal plant sales.
After moving from the Midwest nearly 20 years ago, one of the first gardening lessons I learned was that what grew there probably won’t grow here. Varieties matter, so choose wisely! There are so many varieties that perform well here. Don’t be afraid to explore!
I planted herbs and flowers amongst my vegetables (polyculture style), hoping this would give a habitat to many different pollinators and beneficial insects.
Sunken Garden Beds Step Eight: Add Mulch and Shade
Next, I added mulch to the top to prevent moisture loss and shade cloth in certain areas.
I use shade cloth when planting new seedlings. The sun here is very intense, and it takes those little seedlings a while to toughen up. Shade cloth is also important to use in certain seasons for established plants.
Adding Long Basin Beds
Late this summer, I dug a new bed – the garden is never done, remember? This time I wanted to experiment with a long basin bed, rather than a 4×4 square. The new garden bed was 3 feet wide and 28 feet long.
I am a little (okay, a lot) obsessed with the beauty and variety of dried beans and wanted to grow them. So, I added a new long bed with a cattle panel down the middle. This would allow me to grow pole beans down the center and other crops along the bottom.
I made the most of that space, growing beans,okra, squash, roselle, and zinnias. This bed became a superhighway of butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. It was a great success; I’m putting in a second long bed this fall. Because, you guessed it, the garden is never done!
The Result: A Thriving Garden in the Desert
Overall, I’m so pleased with the results of this gardening season. I’ve happily watched this dusty, bare backyard transform into a space alive with color and the hum of pollinators. I’ve learned a few lessons, of course, that I’ll change next season, but that’s true of any garden. I don’t think a garden is ever truly finished – there is always something new to learn and just one more plant to add.
Most importantly, I’ve done almost no weeding and only had to water the beds twice a week during the hottest part of the year. As the temperatures cool, I will change the watering schedule to once a week. This winter, I’ll install rainwater harvesting tanks to water the garden, reducing the water I must pay for.
Sunken garden beds are an effective, water-wise, efficient, and affordable option for any space
Even if you have a small space, one of these sunken square-foot garden beds will allow you to grow a surprising amount of food.
If you have little money to start a garden, this method can fit any budget.
If you’re short on time, gardening this way can be done in just a few minutes a day.
I hope this encourages you that any space, no matter the size, the climate, or the time constraints, can be a place for you to sow your dreams.
Kara Adams is a gardener and writer from the Southwest who is passionate about the interconnection between plants, people, and places. Her love for all things growing has blossomed into a lifelong commitment to the art and science of gardening.
Kara is an advocate for sustainable gardening practices and environmental stewardship. She creates written content and educational videos on Sonoran Desert plants, gardening practices, and soil health. Her topics include organic gardening, pollinator-friendly landscapes, and water-efficient gardening practices. Follow Kara on her journey through the garden, where her love for it continues to bloom, one word and video at a time. You can follow along with her journey on YouTube and Instagram.
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If you live in a hot summer climate, you may have wondered if a greenhouse would be beneficial. Questions like:
Would a greenhouse get too hot in Arizona?
How many months of the year could I use the greenhouse?
This article discusses the benefits of having a greenhouse (even in a hot summer climate), the challenges to consider, and the best ways to make the greenhouse a productive space during the year’s hottest months.
Benefits of having a greenhouse
Extends the growing season, whether in cold or warmer weather.
The ability to control the environment, including sunlight, temperature, humidity, and ventilation.
Protection from the elements.
Little or no damage from insects, birds, and other animals.
Increased water efficiency.
Central location for seed starting and gardening supplies.
Place to implement hydroponics or other methods.
Challenges with having a greenhouse in Arizona and other hot summer climates
Historically, the function of a greenhouse is to trap heat. However, during the summer heat, greenhouse temperatures can surpass 150°F (65.6°C), which is too hot for plants. High winds during the monsoon/windy seasons also present a challenge.
Choosing the best location for your greenhouse
Typically, a greenhouse is placed in an area with the most sunlight. However, in a hot summer climate, taking advantage of locations that offer natural shade is crucial.
Here are a few considerations about where to position your greenhouse:
Look for locations in your yard that receive shade during the summer naturally. Consider how the sun exposure or shadows will change throughout the year.
Level ground for the greenhouse foundation. Consider installing a cement pad.
Protection from the elements. Placement near a house or fence can help. It is also essential to secure or bolt the greenhouse to the foundation.
Proper drainage. Ideally, the land surrounding the greenhouse is sloped so that water will drain away from your foundation.
Access to electricity and water. Plumb or put these in place before you add a foundation or cement pad.
Convenience. Someplace you can access easily.
What to consider before purchasing a greenhouse
Greenhouses come in various shapes, sizes, and use of materials. Available types include traditional, hoop houses, lean-to’s, cold frames, polytunnels, and attached solariums.
Considerations for greenhouses in hot summer climates:
Available space. Most people with greenhouses wish they had made them larger. Choose the largest size your space and budget will allow.
Design. Do you like the look of it?
Cost. What’s your budget?
Durability. Arizona has severe winds during the monsoon season.
Material type. A galvanized steel or aluminum frame (for durability) with thick polycarbonate panels (for good light diffusion and insulation) could be an effective solution for a hot summer climate.
Height. Adding vertical space can increase the available space for storage and ventilation.
Ventilation. Roof vents with (automatic) openers.
Misting systems and accessory availability.
Quality of construction. Insulation of greenhouse with rubber seals, types of windows, etc.
How to keep a greenhouse cool in hot summer climates
Each method will only partially bring down the heat, but combining techniques will bring the temperature down and make the greenhouse usable throughout the year.
Ceiling fan and circulating fans for air movement.
Louver (manual and automatic) windows that can be opened or closed depending on temperatures.
Interior and exterior shade cloth.
Tint the windows, just like you would a car. While these other strategies reduce the temperatures by 5-10°F, this method can reduce it by more than 30°F.
Greenhouse management tips for a hot summer climate
Once you have a greenhouse, a few essential practices will help ensure your greenhouse is a place where plants thrive.
Like a garden, plan on spending time in your greenhouse daily to monitor the temperature and plant health. Problems will be easier to manage if you catch them when they are small.
Measure the indoor temperature and humidity. Learn which methods for cooling (or heating) the space are most effective. The goal is to maintain the inside temperature between 65-85°F (18-29°C). Try to avoid wide temperature fluctuations.
Keep a greenhouse journal: record germination times and temperatures to help you learn from your experiences.
Keep it clean. Sweep up or vacuum messes and debris.
Don’t overload your greenhouse. Good airflow is crucial for plants.
Don’t bring pest-damaged or diseased plants into the greenhouse; they may spread those issues to other plants.
During the hottest months, you may need to provide additional lighting for plants if the light is blocked by shade cloth.
Avoid standing water. Use layers of gym-style pads and rubber mats to drain the moisture out of the building. Water seedlings from the bottom and drain off extra water.
Keep the door closed. This helps maintain the temperature and humidity levels and keeps insects out.
Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post.
Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively.
He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds. Here’s a link to Larry’s Jansen Greenhouse, featured in this article.
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Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.
In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How does vermicomposting work?
Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!
During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.
What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?
Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.
Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.
Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
Worm castings from vermicomposting
What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?
A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.
No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.
Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin
When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?
If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.
When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).
Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?
Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.
That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farmhere in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.
How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?
Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:
The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
Bin (see options below).
Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.
Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:
The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:
A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.
Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.
Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:
1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.
2. Place the bin in the hole.
3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.
5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.
6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.
7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.
8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.
9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.
10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.
How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?
I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.
You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.
Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.
Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.
What do worms eat?
Good for feeding worms
Avoid feeding worms
Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper
Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.
Greens
Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells
Browns
Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper
Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.
Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.
Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.
The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.
Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?
Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.
The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.
The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.
Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket.Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?
Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.
Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.
Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?
Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.
Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?
Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.
Question: Can you add chicken poopto the buckets?
Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.
Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?
Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.
Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?
Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.
Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?
Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.
Question:WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?
Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?
Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.
Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?
Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.
Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?
Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?
Answer:Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?
Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).
Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?
Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.
Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.
If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it:
Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.
In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How does vermicomposting work?
Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!
During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.
What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?
Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.
Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.
Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
Worm castings from vermicomposting
What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?
A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.
No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.
Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin
When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?
If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.
When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).
Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?
Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.
That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farmhere in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.
How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?
Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:
The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
Bin (see options below).
Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.
Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:
The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:
A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.
Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.
Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:
1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.
2. Place the bin in the hole.
3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.
5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.
6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.
7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.
8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.
9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.
10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.
How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?
I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.
You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.
Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.
Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.
What do worms eat?
Good for feeding worms
Avoid feeding worms
Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper
Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.
Greens
Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells
Browns
Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper
Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.
Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.
Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.
The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.
Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?
Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.
The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.
The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.
Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket.Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?
Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.
Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.
Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?
Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.
Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?
Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.
Question: Can you add chicken poopto the buckets?
Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.
Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?
Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.
Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?
Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.
Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?
Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.
Question:WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?
Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?
Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.
Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?
Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.
Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?
Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?
Answer:Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?
Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).
Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?
Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.
Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.
If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it:
