Grow bags are easy to store when not in use. Clean them out by spraying off well, and then fold them up and let them dry.
Unlike most containers, grow bags allow plants’ roots to breathe. Happy roots mean a happy plant. This is one of the biggest advantages of grow bag gardening.
The ability to move grow bags easily to the best location. Look for a sunny spot in cool climates or give them shade in hot climates.
Disadvantages of gardening in grow bags (and what to do about it)
Grow bags require more watering than traditional pots and the soil can dry out quickly.
Larger grow bags can be hard to move when full of soil.
To make grow bags easier to move, choose good quality bags with heavy-duty handles and get help. Be sure of the location before filling it.
Grow bags require more frequent fertilization than raised beds or in-ground beds. Similar to other containers, plants grown in grow bags require more frequent fertilization.
Use a half dose of a liquid fertilizer every few weeks during the growing season for most crops.
Gardener’s Best Potato Grow Bag from Gardener’s Supply
5 Tips for Successful Grow Bag Gardening
A big thank you to Cindy for sharing these pictures of her successful grow bag garden.
1. Choose the right plants to grow in grow bags
Because grow bags limit the size of the roots and available water, some plants are better suited to grow in grow bags than others.
When choosing which plants to grow in grow bags, look for “dwarf” varieties. These are smaller versions of full-size plants that do better in grow bags. Also, select “bush” or “compact” varieties rather than vining types.
Crops that grow well in grow bags include:
Herbs that grow well in grow bags include:
2. Use oyas or self-watering grow bags for thirsty plants
Wondering which size of grow bag to choose? Look at plant spacing guidelines for the plants you would like to grow. The chart below gives general guidelines about the size of grow bag for common vegetables, fruits, and herbs.
When using this mix, the soil remains light and airy; it does not get crusted or compacted. Plants’ roots need oxygen and water, and roots love this mixture.
It is important to fill bags all the way up with soil to take advantage of the room inside the grow bag.
5. Put your grow bag in the best location
A major advantage of gardening in grow bags is the ability to put the bag in the best location based on the sunlight it receives.
A big thank you to Cindy for sharing these pictures of her successful grow bag garden.
Most plants grow best with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight. Morning sun is preferred, and a little afternoon shade is ideal, especially if you live in a hot climate.
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Disclaimer: This is my honest review of the products provided to me. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Gardener’s Vertex Lifetime Tomato Cages can be placed around existing tomato plants
Let’s face it, you get tomatoes planted and mean to stake them but often forget about them. The next time you notice them, the plants have grown faster than anticipated. Trying to get a typical tomato cage around the plant at that stage is difficult at best and at worst, will break off several of the delicate tomato stems.
My favorite feature of the Vertex tomato cage is that it solves this problem. (Spoiler alert — I love these cages!) You can easily put the Vertex tomato cages around existing plants because the cage is open, and you wrap it around the plant and then clip it into place. Genius! The installation is simple and takes minutes – no tools are needed.
The tomato cage clips easily together with the included clips.
Gardener’s Vertex Lifetime Tomato Cages are made of rust-proof aluminum
My problem with typical tomato cages has been they bend easily and often don’t last even one season in the garden. They are less expensive than the Vertex tomato cages but don’t seem to last.
The Vertex tomato cages are lightweight and made of rust-proof aluminum. It will be simple to disconnect the pieces and take the cage off when the season is over. This tomato cage will last as long as my garden, and I hope that’s a very long time!
Gardener’s Vertex Lifetime Tomato Cages’ sizes are good for determinate and indeterminate tomatoes
I often grow indeterminate tomatoes, and my plants typically reach 8 feet high. Traditional tomato cage’s usefulness is short-lived as they quickly pass the cage up in height. Pruning the tomato to a central leader with one stake is possible, but it requires constant attention to attach the tomato to the stake and keep pruning so it doesn’t flop over and break.
I love the tall Vertex tomato cage because it is over 6 feet tall (installed) with large pockets to support the tomato as it climbs, even if the gardener isn’t paying attention.
The standard size Vertex tomato cage is perfect for determinate tomatoes (like Roma). There is plenty of room inside the cage for the plant to grow, and the branches are easily supported by the cage.
Gardener’s Vertex Lifetime Tomato Cages make harvesting easy
The openings in the Vertex tomato cage are nice and big. This is good for a couple of reasons: they provide great airflow to the plants and make harvesting easy. The plant isn’t cramped inside a small cage; instead, it can spread out within the cage. Come harvest time, it’s simple to reach in and pick tomatoes without breaking stems.
Gardener’s Vertex Lifetime Tomato Cages fold easily for storage
Traditional tomato cages don’t store well, so they often get tossed with tomatoes. The great design of the Vertex tomato cages allows you to remove the cage from around the plant and fold it up, ready for next season. That being said, because we grow year-round here in Arizona, I think these cages will always be in use somewhere in my garden. I love to garden cucumbers, melons, and squash vertically. I can see using the Vertex tomato cage for those vegetables as well.
My overall review of Gardener’s Vertex Lifetime Tomato Cages
My overall review? The Gardener’s Vertex Lifetime Tomato Cages are a game-changer for the home gardener, combining problem-solving and innovative design with excellent execution. Gardener’s Supply hit a home run with this product.
Growing onions is so satisfying. However, you may not know what to do when onions bolt. Seeing flower stalks forming on your growing onions can be disheartening.
A bulb on the top center stalk of your onion means it has begun the process of flowering and making seeds. This is called “bolting,” which is terrible news for onion growers.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
What is bolting?
Bolting is the term that describes when a vegetable plant starts to seed or flower before it should. When onions bolt, the bulb part of the onion stops growing and will not mature further. The energy that would make the onion bulb is now directed towards making the flower stalk.
Onions and shallots are a biennial crops, which means that the first year they grow and the second year they flower. When an onion or shallot forms a flower in the first year, it is called bolting.
Why do onions bolt?
An onion bolts in response to stress. Stress can happen in several ways; too hot, too cold, not enough water, or too much water. Temperature fluctuations can cause onions to bolt as well.
Swings in temperature may cause the onion to think it is in the second year of growth when it is supposed to flower.
For example, warm temperatures followed by cool weather can encourage onions to go dormant. Once warm temperatures return, the onion may believe it is beginning its second growing season and produce seeds.
The onion reacts to the stress by putting its energy into reproducing and making seeds.
What should I do when my onions bolt?
Harvest and use (or preserve, see preserving tips below).
Cut off the flower on top, or cut the entire bolting stem, so the onion stops producing seeds. (This won’t restart bulb growth.) You can leave the onion in the ground for a few weeks. The onion won’t continue bulbing or get any larger, but it will “keep” in the ground and can be used later.
Do not wait to harvest until the onion leaves turn brown and fall over (as you do with onions that don’t bolt). Bolted onions may rot or become fibrous if left in the ground too long.
Leave a couple of bolting onions to flower until they produce seeds. Save the seedsto plant next season.
Onion flowers develop into seedsOnion seeds
How do I preserve bolted onions?
Use bolted onions right away, just as you would other onions. Bolted onions will not store well, and you need to preserve them differently than onions that did not bolt.
Here are a few ideas for ways to preserve bolted onions:
Cut up the onions and dehydrate them. Use dehydrated onions whole, or process them into onion powder. Store the dehydrated onions whole for the most robust flavor, and then blend small amounts for powder.
Onions on dehydrating traysDehydrated onions
Slice onions and freeze dry them. (This is my FAVORITE way to preserve onions.) Freeze-dried onions can be stored and used “as is” or processed into a powder. Looking for more information about freeze-drying? Read this post, Freeze Drying Tips for Beginners.
Onions going into the freeze dryerFreeze dried onionsFreeze dried onion powder
What can I do to prevent onions from bolting next time?
You don’t control the weather or other outside conditions that may cause onions to bolt. However, there are a few ways to help prevent bolting in the future.
Choose onions suited to your area. Onions are typically grouped into short, long, and intermediate day onions. Use this map to help determine which type to plant.
Plant at the correct time. Use your local planting guide to determine when to plant.
Onion sets (small bulbs) tend to set more frequently, especially in hot climates. Grow onions from seed or transplant instead.
Onion setsMulti-sown onions from seedOnion transplants
If you would like more information about how to grow onions, read this blogpost.
If this post about what to do when onions bolt was helpful, please share it:
Growing onions is so satisfying. However, you may not know what to do when onions bolt. Seeing flower stalks forming on your growing onions can be disheartening.
A bulb on the top center stalk of your onion means it has begun the process of flowering and making seeds. This is called “bolting,” which is terrible news for onion growers.
Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
What is bolting?
Bolting is the term that describes when a vegetable plant starts to seed or flower before it should. When onions bolt, the bulb part of the onion stops growing and will not mature further. The energy that would make the onion bulb is now directed towards making the flower stalk.
Onions and shallots are a biennial crops, which means that the first year they grow and the second year they flower. When an onion or shallot forms a flower in the first year, it is called bolting.
Why do onions bolt?
An onion bolts in response to stress. Stress can happen in several ways; too hot, too cold, not enough water, or too much water. Temperature fluctuations can cause onions to bolt as well.
Swings in temperature may cause the onion to think it is in the second year of growth when it is supposed to flower.
For example, warm temperatures followed by cool weather can encourage onions to go dormant. Once warm temperatures return, the onion may believe it is beginning its second growing season and produce seeds.
The onion reacts to the stress by putting its energy into reproducing and making seeds.
What should I do when my onions bolt?
Harvest and use (or preserve, see preserving tips below).
Cut off the flower on top, or cut the entire bolting stem, so the onion stops producing seeds. (This won’t restart bulb growth.) You can leave the onion in the ground for a few weeks. The onion won’t continue bulbing or get any larger, but it will “keep” in the ground and can be used later.
Do not wait to harvest until the onion leaves turn brown and fall over (as you do with onions that don’t bolt). Bolted onions may rot or become fibrous if left in the ground too long.
Leave a couple of bolting onions to flower until they produce seeds. Save the seedsto plant next season.
Onion flowers develop into seedsOnion seeds
How do I preserve bolted onions?
Use bolted onions right away, just as you would other onions. Bolted onions will not store well, and you need to preserve them differently than onions that did not bolt.
Here are a few ideas for ways to preserve bolted onions:
Cut up the onions and dehydrate them. Use dehydrated onions whole, or process them into onion powder. Store the dehydrated onions whole for the most robust flavor, and then blend small amounts for powder.
Onions on dehydrating traysDehydrated onions
Slice onions and freeze dry them. (This is my FAVORITE way to preserve onions.) Freeze-dried onions can be stored and used “as is” or processed into a powder. Looking for more information about freeze-drying? Read this post, Freeze Drying Tips for Beginners.
Onions going into the freeze dryerFreeze dried onionsFreeze dried onion powder
What can I do to prevent onions from bolting next time?
You don’t control the weather or other outside conditions that may cause onions to bolt. However, there are a few ways to help prevent bolting in the future.
Choose onions suited to your area. Onions are typically grouped into short, long, and intermediate day onions. Use this map to help determine which type to plant.
Plant at the correct time. Use your local planting guide to determine when to plant.
Onion sets (small bulbs) tend to set more frequently, especially in hot climates. Grow onions from seed or transplant instead.
Onion setsMulti-sown onions from seedOnion transplants
If you would like more information about how to grow onions, read this blogpost.
If this post about what to do when onions bolt was helpful, please share it:
Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed – they are grown from slips. A slip is a rooted sprout from a mature sweet potato. You can order sweet potato slips online, or you can grow your own. If you’re wondering how to grow sweet potato slips, you’ve come to the right place.
Begin the process about 8-12 weeks before your planting date for sweet potatoes. Here in the low desert of Arizona, our planting window for sweet potatoes is from March – June.
How to grow sweet potato slips: Decide which method you would like to use
There are a few methods for growing sweet potato slips. I’m sharing three successful methods I’ve used.
1. The Traditional Water Method
The traditional method of making sweet potato slips is suspending the sweet potato in water. This method works, but often takes 6-8 weeks (or more) to produce slips.
Choose this method if you have plenty of time before you plant and don’t have indoor lighting. A bright window works well for this method.
Pros: Simple
Cons: Takes longer; requires frequent changing of water.
In my experience, the indoor soil method of making sweet potato slips is a much faster way to make sweet potato slips. This method usually takes around 4-6 weeks.
Choose this method if you would like slips faster, and you have bright indoor lighting available.
Pros: Quickest method
Cons: Requires indoor lighting & heat mat for best results. Must keep the soil moist. Chance for potato rotting.
The first step for all three methods is to choose a healthy organic sweet potato. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated with a sprout inhibitor.
Do you have a sweet potato beginning to sprout in the cupboard? Perfect! Now you have a head start in whichever method for sprouting sweet potato slips you choose.
1. Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips
Suspend half the sweet potato in a jar of water using toothpicks.
Does it matter which half of the potato is submerged in water when making sweet potato slips? Yes, the rooting end should go in the water. Here are a few ways to determine the difference between the rooting end and the sprouting end:
Look for small thin roots on one end. This is the rooting end.
One end may be larger with more eyes. This is the sprouting end.
The end of the sweet potato that tapers is typically the rooting end.
You want the bottom (rooting) half to be immersed in water and the top (sprouting) half above the jar. Roots will form in the water, and sprouts will form in the top part of the potato.
Providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
Keep the water level up in the jar and keep thewater fresh by replacing it every week or so. Within a few weeks, roots will develop first, and then sprouts will start to form on the suspended potato.
Nestle sweet potatoes in soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Place the lid under the pan to catch any excess water coming out of the holes.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
Once again, providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
If the sweet potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
In about a week, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week or two, small sprouts will begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slip.
You may be able to remove the slip with roots attached. If so, you can go ahead and plant. If there are no roots, go ahead to the next step.
3. “Outdoor soil method” for making sweet potato slips
Bury the sweet potato halfway in warm soil.
Check soil temperature. Once the soil is at least 65°F (18°C), you can begin.
Bury the bottom (rooting half) of sweet potatoes in the soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Use a milk jug or cloche to warm the soil and encourage rooting and sprouting.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
If at any time the potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
Sprouts forming using the outdoor soil method of starting sweet potato slips
Within a week or two, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week, small sprouts should begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato.
Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slips from the sweet potato and begin the next step.
Whichever method you choose for making sweet potato slips (the water method or either soil method), the next steps are the same:
When sprouts are about 5-6 inches tall, remove sprouts from the sweet potato by carefully twisting off or cutting off at soil level.
Remove lower leaves from sprouts and let “root” in a jar of water. Roots will develop quickly; you should begin to see roots in 1-2 days.
Keep the water level high in the jar. Switch out the water about once a week to keep the water fresh. Discard wilted or rotten slips.
Once roots are fully formed and several inches long, it’s time to plant.
Plant the rooted sweet potato slips about 12-18 inches apart and 4 inches deep.
Water newly-planted slips well.
Root slips before planting
One sweet potato will produce a dozen or more sprouts. Allow sweet potato to continue rooting and producing slips until you have as many as you (and your neighbors) need.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
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Learn how to prevent and treat powdery mildew before it causes problems with the fruits and vegetables growing in your garden. Powdery mildew can spread quickly and, if left untreated, can cause significant damage to infected plants.
Fortunately, there are several methods available to help control and prevent this fungal disease from spreading in your garden. All gardeners should be aware of the signs of powdery mildew and how to treat it quickly and effectively.
What is powdery mildew?
When trying to prevent or control powdery mildew, start by understanding what it is and where it comes from. Powdery mildew is a disease caused by several types of fungi. It first appears as a whitish-gray powdery coating on the surfaces of plants, eventually turning the leaves yellow or brown.
Left untreated, powdery mildew quickly spreads by spores on wind or physical contact. The disease weakens the plant and causes it to become stunted in growth. If not treated promptly, it can sometimes lead to leaf drop or plant death.
What does powdery mildew look like?
Learn what powdery mildew looks like so you can begin to combat it when it first appears. Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that can infect many plants, including vegetables. It appears as white powder-like spots on the leaves and other parts of the plant.
Roses: New flower buds are covered in white powder. Powdery white or gray coating on the leaves and stems. The infected leaves may curl or become distorted, and the plant may produce fewer blooms.
Raspberries: Undersides and tips of leaves become deformed.
Cantaloupe: Leaves and stems turn brown; poor fruit production.
Peas: White or grayish coating on the leaves can then spread to the stems and pods. The entire plant may be covered in a powdery coating in severe cases.
Zinnias: Mildew covers leaves, buds, and stems. Infected plants may produce fewer blooms or stop blooming altogether.
Squash: White or grayish patches on the leaves, which can then spread to the stems, fruit, and flowers. Infected foliage may turn yellow or brown and fall off the plant. (Tip: Know what you are growing. Many squash varieties have variegated leaves that may look like powdery mildew.)
Apples: White patches on the leaves, fruit, and stems.
Cucumbers: Powdery mildew appears as white or grayish spots on the leaves, stems, and fruit. As the infection progresses, the spots may merge and cover larger areas of the plant.
Phlox: Powdery mildew appears as white or grayish spots on the leaves and stems. Infected foliage may turn yellow or brown and fall off the plant.
Lilacs: Powdery mildew appears as a white or grayish powder on the leaves, which can then spread to the stems and flowers. The infected foliage may become distorted or stunted.
Grapes: White or grayish-white powder or coating on the leaves, stems, flowers, and fruit. The infected leaves may become distorted, yellow, or fall off the plant. If left untreated, powdery mildew can reduce grape yields and quality.
Do these zucchini leaves have powdery mildew?
No. Some types of squash leaves have variegated leaves that, at first glance, may look like powdery mildew. However, it’s merely a color variation. Look closely at the leaves, and you’ll be able to distinguish between the two. The color variation will be consistent on all the leaves, but powdery mildew will appear in patches.
Variegated leaves on a zucchini plant (not powdery mildew)
If you think your leaves may have powdery mildew, check for other signs, such as yellow or brown spots on the leaf surface and white, dusty-looking growth on the top and bottom of the leaves. It’s important to take action if you suspect powdery mildew since it can spread quickly throughout your plant.
Light-colored leaves on a summer squash plant (not powdery mildew)
7 Tips for How to Prevent and Treat Powdery Mildew
1. Plant powdery mildew-resistant varieties.
To mitigate the occurrence of powdery mildew, opt for disease-resistant varieties when planting crops that are vulnerable to this fungal disease. Examples of such susceptible crops include cantaloupe, zinnias, roses, squash, and peas.
By selecting resistant strains, you can safeguard your plants and minimize the impact of powdery mildew. Powdery mildew resistance is marked on seed packages with the designation PMR. Be sure to rotate crops each year, as the same crop planted in the same spot can lead to soil-borne disease problems.
2. Prune or stake plants to improve air circulation.
An abundance of foliage or vines left sprawling on the ground invites pests and diseases. Proper air circulation helps prevent fungal diseases. Prune and trellis plants to allow as much air and sunlight as possible to reach them.
3. Water correctly.
I use these garden grids in all of my raised beds.
Space your plants with enough room for air circulation so that the leaves have a chance to dry out after rain or watering. Also, avoid wetting the foliage when you water, and water in the morning rather than late afternoon or evening.
Water in the morning. Evening watering creates a cool, damp climate that promotes powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.
Using drip irrigation(rather than overhead) puts the water on the soil (where it is needed) rather than on the leaves.
Do not over-water. Let the top inch or two of soil dry out between waterings. Damp soil promotes fungal diseases.
4. Keep plant debris cleaned up to prevent powdery mildew.
Leaves and trimmings from plants can harbor fungal spores that cause powdery mildew.
Rake up and remove debris from around plants. Prune away affected branches to minimize spread. Good air circulation around the plants also helps reduce mildew growth.
5. Use organic options to treat powdery mildew
Choose one (or more) of the following methods. To prevent further infections, continue treatment while warm, humid conditions persist.
Treat the remaining leaves with a baking soda / castile soap solution every 7 days. Use 5 milliliters (1 teaspoon) of baking soda plus 5 milliliters (1 teaspoon) of liquid castile soap per 1 liter (quart) of water in a spray bottle. Apply as a preventative measure or to halt early outbreaks. Apply after the sun goes down and spray off afterward to prevent leaf burn.
Treat powdery mildew with a milk solution every 7-10 days. The protein in milk may create an antiseptic effect when exposed to sunlight. Use a 40% milk to 60% water solution. Spray on the leaves of affected and nearby plants, lightly coating all surfaces while the sun shines for the best effect.
Mix 15 ml (1 tablespoon) of potassium bicarbonate powder and 15 ml (1 tablespoon) of liquid castile soap in 3.8 liters (1 gallon) of water and spray all parts of the plant well. To treat an outbreak, spray plants every 2-3 days. Apply after the sun goes down and spray off afterward to prevent leaf burn.
Any diseased plant parts should be removed and discarded away from other plants. These steps will help reduce the chance of a fungal disease outbreak in your garden.
6. Remove affected leaves or plants, and destroy them.
An effective method for preventing further powdery mildew is to remove and destroy affected leaves as you see them. Sanitize hands, gloves, and tools that come in contact with the diseased leaves. This will help to prevent the spread of the infection.
7. If a plant becomes overwhelmed, consider removing the entire plant.
If all methods fail and you haven’t been able to prevent or treat powdery mildew successfully, consider removing the entire plant.
An unhealthy plant is more susceptible to pests and other diseases.
A diseased plant can easily spread powdery mildew to other plants in the garden.
Remove the entire plant, and do not compost it. Plant another fruit or vegetable in that spot that isn’t as susceptible to powdery mildew.
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Although rollie pollies (also called pill bugs or potato bugs) usually eat decaying and decomposing plant matter, occasionally, pill bug numbers are high, and they can wreak havoc on a garden (and your favorite strawberries!). This post shares my favorite natural pill bug control methods.
To my great frustration, rollie pollies have destroyed countless seedlings in my garden. As an organic gardener, I’m unwilling to use pesticides to control pill bug numbers when they get out of balance, so I’ve had to get creative. These are my time-tested and favorite ways to keep pill bugs from killing my seeds and seedlings.
Best Organic Pill Bug Control Methods For the Home Gardener
1. Don’t give rollie pollies in the garden what they want
Pill bugs love strawberries.
Pill bugs prefer damp and dark hiding places. Try not to make life comfortable for them.
Remove wet leaves, fallen fruit, and dead plant matter from your garden. Try not to overwater your garden, as rollie pollies are also attracted to moisture.
This step can be helpful, but if you still have problems, keep reading through the rest of the ways to keep pill bugs from destroying your garden.
2. Set traps to get rid of rollie pollies in your garden
If an area of your garden has an overabundance of pill bugs, setting traps is an effective way to bring the numbers back in balance.Check traps daily, and remove and either discard or transplant the pill bugs to other areas of your yard.
EFFECTIVE WAYS TO TRAP PILL BUGS INCLUDE:
Citrus or fruit traps as a natural pill bug control method
Cut the fruit in half and place it face down in the affected area. The pill bugs will be drawn to the fruit. Check traps in the morning, and dig down a bit to collect the rollie pollies. Fruit can often be used for 2-3 days in a row.
Beer or yeast traps as a natural pill bug control method
Rollie pollies collected from yeast trap
Set a shallow container (such as a pie plate) with the rim flush to the ground; fill with beer or 1-2 Tb yeast dissolved in water. The rollie pollies will be drawn to the beer or yeast, fall in, and drown.
3. Make paper tube, newspaper, or duct tape collars how to get rid of rollie pollies in your garden
Sick of losing my seedlings to rollie pollie damage, I wrapped the stems in duct tape (sticky side out) and it worked! The seedlings are thriving with no pest damage to the stems. This technique is quick, simple, and effective. I’ve also used newspaper and toilet paper rolls as collars effectively.
Duct tape collar as a natural pill bug control method
Duct tape collar to prevent pill bug damage to plants
Wrap a small piece of duct tape (sticky side out) around the stem of a seedling. Bury one-half of the taped stem in the ground, leaving some of the tape above ground as well. Remove the tape when the stem grows larger to keep the tape from suffocating the stem.
Newspaper collar as a natural pill bug control method
Tear a couple-inch strip of newspaper and carefully wrap it around the seedling stem, burying some if possible. As the seedling grows, the paper will fall off — no need to remove it.
Paper collar to prevent pill bug damage to plants
Toilet paper tube collar as a natural pill bug control method
Slide the tube over the seedling and into the soil. It’s best to have the collar buried an inch or two below the soil.
Toilet paper tube collar to prevent pill bug damage to plants
I’ve had mixed success with this type of collar. Sometimes it works. Other times the pill bugs get inside the collar.
4. Overplant to overwhelm the rollie pollies in the garden
Certain crops are best started in the garden from seed,which makes using collar methods ineffective – the seedlings are often eaten before there is anything above ground to protect. When this happens, I usually try overplanting.
For example, instead of planting 1-2 seeds, I plant 3-4 seeds. In my experience, at least one of the seeds is overlooked or somehow protected by the other seedlings and not eaten by the rollie pollies — success!
If more than one seedling survives, thin additional seedlings by cutting at the soil level rather than pulling. (Pulling may disturb the roots of remaining seedlings.)
5. Use Slug & Snail Bait, Diatomaceous earth (DE), or Nematodes to combat pill bugs in the home garden
Using slug & snail bait to combat pill bug overpopulation:
Garden Safe Slug & Snail Bait is OMRI (Organic Materials Review Institute) Listed. This bait is very effective in areas where rollie pollies are an issue. Use according to package directions. After planting beans twice, none came up. I sprinkled a small amount of this after replanting the third time and had beans emerge within days, undamaged.
Using diatomaceous earth (DE) to combat pill bug overpopulation:
Diatomaceous earth (DE) can be an effective means of controlling pill bug populations around your plants. DE is safe to handle (for animals and pets, too) but not to inhale – wear a mask while using.
DE, or diatomaceous earth, works to kill pill bugs by dehydrating them. Diatomaceous earth is made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms called diatoms. When pill bugs come into contact with DE, the sharp edges of the diatoms cut through the bug’s exoskeleton and absorb the moisture, causing the bug to dehydrate and die.
DE is commonly used in organic pest control because it is non-toxic to humans, pets, and the environment. However, to ensure effective and safe usage, it is important to follow the instructions on the product label when using DE.
To use DE for pill bug control, apply a thin layer around their frequented areas, wear gloves and a mask, avoid windy conditions, and re-apply after rain. Apply in the late afternoon when the bugs are active and follow the product label for safe and effective results.
Using nematodes to combat pill bug overpopulation:
Nematodes are microscopic organisms that are often used as a natural method of controlling pests in gardens.
Specifically, the Steinernema carpocapsae nematode is effective at targeting and killing pill bugs. These nematodes are applied to the soil in the garden and penetrate the skin of the pill bug. Once inside, they release a bacteria that quickly kills the pill bug.
Using nematodes for pest control is considered a safe and environmentally friendly option as they only attack specific pests and do not harm beneficial insects or soil quality. However, it’s important to follow the application instructions carefully to ensure the nematodes are introduced properly.
Additionally, nematodes may not be as effective if the soil is too dry or too hot, so it’s important to monitor the environmental conditions in your garden to determine the best time to use this method.
Which natural pill bug control methods should you try in your home garden?
I’ve found the best way to bring pill bug numbers back into balance is by combining these methods. Effective methods for combating pill bug damage in a home garden include reducing favorable environmental conditions, creating physical barriers, using predators, manually removing the bugs, and using natural repellents.
Looking for more information about managing pests?
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Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed – they are grown from slips. A slip is a rooted sprout from a mature sweet potato. You can order sweet potato slips online, or you can grow your own. If you’re wondering how to grow sweet potato slips, you’ve come to the right place.
Begin the process about 8-12 weeks before your planting date for sweet potatoes. Here in the low desert of Arizona, our planting window for sweet potatoes is from March – June.
How to grow sweet potato slips: Decide which method you would like to use
There are a few methods for growing sweet potato slips. I’m sharing three successful methods I’ve used.
1. The Traditional Water Method
The traditional method of making sweet potato slips is suspending the sweet potato in water. This method works, but often takes 6-8 weeks (or more) to produce slips.
Choose this method if you have plenty of time before you plant and don’t have indoor lighting. A bright window works well for this method.
Pros: Simple
Cons: Takes longer; requires frequent changing of water.
In my experience, the indoor soil method of making sweet potato slips is a much faster way to make sweet potato slips. This method usually takes around 4-6 weeks.
Choose this method if you would like slips faster, and you have bright indoor lighting available.
Pros: Quickest method
Cons: Requires indoor lighting & heat mat for best results. Must keep the soil moist. Chance for potato rotting.
The first step for all three methods is to choose a healthy organic sweet potato. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated with a sprout inhibitor.
Do you have a sweet potato beginning to sprout in the cupboard? Perfect! Now you have a head start in whichever method for sprouting sweet potato slips you choose.
1. Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips
Suspend half the sweet potato in a jar of water using toothpicks.
Does it matter which half of the potato is submerged in water when making sweet potato slips? Yes, the rooting end should go in the water. Here are a few ways to determine the difference between the rooting end and the sprouting end:
Look for small thin roots on one end. This is the rooting end.
One end may be larger with more eyes. This is the sprouting end.
The end of the sweet potato that tapers is typically the rooting end.
You want the bottom (rooting) half to be immersed in water and the top (sprouting) half above the jar. Roots will form in the water, and sprouts will form in the top part of the potato.
Providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
Keep the water level up in the jar and keep thewater fresh by replacing it every week or so. Within a few weeks, roots will develop first, and then sprouts will start to form on the suspended potato.
Nestle sweet potatoes in soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Place the lid under the pan to catch any excess water coming out of the holes.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
Once again, providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
If the sweet potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
In about a week, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week or two, small sprouts will begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slip.
You may be able to remove the slip with roots attached. If so, you can go ahead and plant. If there are no roots, go ahead to the next step.
3. “Outdoor soil method” for making sweet potato slips
Bury the sweet potato halfway in warm soil.
Check soil temperature. Once the soil is at least 65°F (18°C), you can begin.
Bury the bottom (rooting half) of sweet potatoes in the soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Use a milk jug or cloche to warm the soil and encourage rooting and sprouting.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
If at any time the potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
Sprouts forming using the outdoor soil method of starting sweet potato slips
Within a week or two, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week, small sprouts should begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato.
Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slips from the sweet potato and begin the next step.
Whichever method you choose for making sweet potato slips (the water method or either soil method), the next steps are the same:
When sprouts are about 5-6 inches tall, remove sprouts from the sweet potato by carefully twisting off or cutting off at soil level.
Remove lower leaves from sprouts and let “root” in a jar of water. Roots will develop quickly; you should begin to see roots in 1-2 days.
Keep the water level high in the jar. Switch out the water about once a week to keep the water fresh. Discard wilted or rotten slips.
Once roots are fully formed and several inches long, it’s time to plant.
Plant the rooted sweet potato slips about 12-18 inches apart and 4 inches deep.
Water newly-planted slips well.
Root slips before planting
One sweet potato will produce a dozen or more sprouts. Allow sweet potato to continue rooting and producing slips until you have as many as you (and your neighbors) need.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
If this post about how to make sweet potato slips was helpful, please share it:
If you’re wondering what the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardeningis, that’s an easy answer – “Mel’s Mix”. I didn’t come up with this mix; we can thank Mel Bartholomew, the author of Square Foot Gardening, for simplifying the best soil to use for raised bed vegetable gardening.
After reading Square Foot Gardening for the first time over 12 years ago, I decided to start my own garden. I followed the advice for how to make Mel’s Mix, which he calls “the most important, productive, essential, necessary, critical” ingredient for square-foot gardening success, and it worked!
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
The Best Soil for Raised Bed Vegetable Gardening is Mel’s Mix
What is in Mel’s Mix?
Regular garden soil is too dense for raised bed gardens. Mel’s Mix for square-foot gardening mixes compost, coco coir, and vermiculite, which keeps the soil light and airy.
Mel Bartholomew’s mix for the best soil for raised bed vegetable gardening is simple:
1 part compost – Make your own, or If you live in Arizona, the compost from Arizona Worm Farm is great. If you use bagged, a mix of several different types is best.
Measure each type by volume (cubic feet), not weight.
You can also use up to 50 percent compost to 25 percent each of vermiculite and coco coir.
Compost Coco CoirVermiculite
Great news for Phoenix-area residents
Fall 2020 Arizona Worm Farm (located in Phoenix, Arizona) began selling “Growing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix” that is premixed and ready to go! It is available by the bag or by the yard and also available for delivery. It contains the correct mixture of compost, coco coir, vermiculite, worm castings, and basalt dust.
Growing in the Garden Raised Bed MixGrowing in the Garden Raised Bed Mix
What are the advantages of using this mix for raised bed vegetable gardening?
The benefits of using this soil mix for raised bed vegetable gardening include:
It simplifies drainage – the vermiculite and coco coir absorb moisture; when they are saturated, excess moisture drains away. This means you can’t overwater.
Seeds germinate easily in the mix.
No weeds! It really is true. In the years I’ve been gardening, I rarely see a weed inside the raised beds. The soil remains light and airy; it does not get crusted or compacted. Plants’ roots need oxygen and water, and roots love this mixture.
Adding a balanced organic fertilizer before you plant to your soil mixture for raised beds helps give plants the food they need to grow and thrive in your garden. You are feeding the soil that feeds your plants.
Follow package directions for the amount to add.
Thinking about adding a raised bed? I love my metal garden bed (it comes with watering grids!) from Garden in Minutes.
What’s the best way to combine the ingredients in the raised bed mix?
One way to mix up the ingredients for the best soil for raised bed gardening is to combine the ingredients in batches on a tarp. Once they are combined, contents can be dumped into the raised bed. Once you fill your bed, water the soil very well.
You can also layer the ingredients (lasagna style) in the raised bed, mixing well after each addition.Make up a little extra raised bed mix to use in pots and containers
This raised bed mixture also is a perfect potting soil, so I like to mix up extra of this soil mixture and store it in a large-lidded garbage can. It’s very convenient to have the mix on hand for filling pots and for other areas in the garden.
Add more compost to raised beds each time you plant
Compost
At the end of the season, as the soil level goes down from the decomposition of the compost, add additional compost to bring the soil level back up to the top of the bed. It isn’t necessary to add additional coco coir and vermiculite to your beds each season, as the coconut coir and vermiculite do not break down as quickly. The continued practice of adding compost and feeding your soil each season improves the soil and the harvests.
Test your soil once a year
About once a year after adding soil to your raised beds, it’s important to have your soil tested. A soil test can determine the health of your soil. This is the soil test kit I use. It’s simple to use.
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Citrus is easy to grow in warm climates, but it is important to avoid a few key citrus growing mistakes many home citrus growers make. Learn from others’ mistakes and enjoy better-tasting citrus fruit for years to come.
The information in this blog post about citrus growing mistakes is for citrus planted in the ground in warm climates that can grow citrus outdoors year round. Read this article about how to grow citrus in containers for cooler climates.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
10 Biggest Citrus Growing Mistakes
Citrus Growing Mistake #1: Planting a tree without trying the fruit
Try to sample the fruit – this is another advantage of purchasing from a local grower, they often have mature varieties growing.
Does the fruit have seeds? Do you like the taste? Citrus trees are long-lived and produce hundreds of pounds of fruit. Make sure you like the fruit.
Citrus Growing Mistake #2: Planting at the wrong time of year
Citrus is frost-sensitive; plant it after danger of frost is passed. In hot climate areas (like the low desert of Arizona), don’t wait too long in the spring. Planting earlier in the spring allows roots to get established before the heat of the summer. Citrus roots grow and develop quickly in the spring.
In the low desert of Arizona, do not plant citrus from June through mid-September.
There is a second planting window in the fall but be aware newly-planted citrus is more susceptible to frost damage. Cover young citrus during frost events.
Be an informed consumer. Local retailers may have citrus in stock all year long, but do not purchase if it’s not the right time of year to plant citrus in your area.
Citrus Growing Mistake #3: Planting the wrong size for the space available
Allow enough space for trees to reach their mature size. Over-planting causes problems with restricted sunlight and airflow around trees.
Plant far enough away from buildings, fences, and property lines to allow the tree to reach maturity. It’s easy to make this citrus growing mistake; young citrus trees can look deceivingly small.
Dwarf varieties produce the same quality and size of fruit but yield about half as much fruit.
Dwarf varieties produce the same quality and size of fruit but yield about half as much fruit.
Semi-dwarf trees are usually 12-15 feet tall and wide.
Standard-size trees are usually 20-25 feet tall and 16-18 feet wide, depending on the variety.
Citrus Growing Mistake #4: Planting the citrus tree too deeply
This is one of the most common citrus growing mistakes. Different citrus types are always grafted onto a root-stalk.
Look at the trunk and you will see the graft.
Do not bury the graft; instead, plant at the level of the root ball (not necessarily the level they were in the nursery pot).
Before you purchase a tree, dig around the soil to ensure they didn’t put a smaller plant in a larger pot and fill it with soil. Roots should be close to the surface.
It’s best to plant trees with the root ball at the level of planting or a little bit higher. Dig a hole as deep (but not any deeper) as the root ball (but 3-5 times as wide).
If a tree is planted too deeply, it can have problems for life: disease and pest issues, lower fruit production, and finally death.
Citrus Growing Mistake #5: Amending the planting hole with rich soil or compost
When you plant the citrus tree, backfill the planting hole with the same native soil that was removed. If you amend the soil with compost and rich soil, you are creating a small area for the roots to find everything they need.
Backfilling with compost and rich soil may create a smaller root system and a weaker tree.
Backfilling with native soil stimulates the roots to spread and seek out nutrients in the surrounding soil.
Native soil encourages a larger root system that anchors and strengthens the tree.
Citrus Growing Mistake #6: Not watering deeply enough
Problems with citrus can often be traced back to insufficient or improper watering. Watering correctly is the most important thing you can do for healthy trees.
Learn how to recognize when citrus trees need water, and water as needed.
Citrus leaves that droop or curl inward are a sign of insufficient water. Leaves that have plenty of water are usually flat or curled slightly downward.
Newly-planted and young citrus trees need watering more often.
Once established, citrus trees do best with slow, deep infrequent water that encourage the roots to go deeper to find the water.
Water to a depth of at least 18-24 inches and up to 3 feet for mature trees each time you water. Use a soil probe to determine how deeply the water penetrates.
Use a soil probe to measure how deeply water penetrates.
The soil probe will penetrate through wet soil
Citrus roots need air as well as water. Allow the top several inches of soil to dry out before you water again. Overwatering leads to root rot.
In the low desert of Arizona, our fertilizer application dates are typically Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day.
Citrus Growing Mistake #9: Exposing bark to sunlight
Citrus bark is easily sunburned. Avoid exposing bark by not skirting trees (see mistake #7), and protect exposed bark from direct sunlight.
Citrus Growing Mistake #10: Not harvesting fruit
Leaving overripe fruit on the tree invites insects, birds, and rodents to your tree.
Citrus harvests usually begin in late fall and carry over into spring. Sample fruit at the beginning of the harvest window for that type of tree to see if it is ripe. Citrus often remains ripe on the tree for several weeks. Enjoy it!
Once the fruit begins to soften and drop, get all the fruit off the tree. This is a simple citrus growing mistake to remedy. Clean-up any fallen fruit to discourage pests and rodents.
Looking for the best way to label garden plants in your garden? Throughout the years, I’ve used many different garden markers and plant labels.
My favorite way to label garden plants is easy to see, lasts all season (even in the Arizona summer sun), and can be reused season after season.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
Garden labels should be easy to see
I use these plastic labels from Amazon with a sharpie when starting seeds. They are simple to use and work well for labeling small seedlings.
However, the labels are difficult to find amid the dirt when the plants go out into the garden. The writing on these plastic labels often fades by the end of the season.
Instead of using them in the garden, I reuse these labels for starting the next round of seedlings by wiping off the writing with a Magic Eraser.
When I’m ready to transplant my seedlings or plant my seeds in the garden, I love using these metal plant labels (also from Amazon). When it’s time to plant, I label the seeds or seedlings and plant them along with the transplants.
These plant markers are easy to spot in the garden even when the plant gets large. I often have visitors in my garden, and an easy-to-see plant marker is as helpful for them as it is for me.
The best way to label garden plants should last all season
Keeping accurate records each season is an important part of gardening. Gardeners often learn as much (or more) from failures as from successes. If labels are lost or indecipherable, it’s difficult to document what went well (or not so well) at the end of the season.
The best way to label garden plants should be reusable
I love using these aluminum labels that are easy to emboss with a ballpoint pen for trees and long-lived plants in the garden.
However, many of my garden plants are annuals. The plants change each season. After the current plant is removed, a different plant will be in that spot. Chances are you will plant a different variety of tomatoes or peppers next time and need a different label for the new type of plant.
Ideally, you should use your plant markers again next season.
I love that at the end of each season, I can paint over the labels with black paint and use them again.
Many of these tags have been used for several years.
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Are you wondering how far apart to space your plants? This post shares helpful tools and guidelines for plant spacing in square foot gardens.
The first gardening class I attended was about square foot gardening. I soaked it all in and then bought Mel Bartholomew’s “Square Foot Gardening” book. One of the concepts I loved was the simplicity of plant spacing in square foot gardens.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How do you space plants in square foot gardening?
A key factor in being successful with plant spacing in square foot gardening is adding a grid to your garden. Mel Bartholomew said, “If your garden box doesn’t have a grid, it’s not a Square Foot Garden.” His book also emphasized that the grids be “prominent and permanent”. I have come to see the wisdom in this tip.
Why use grids for plant spacing in square foot gardens?
In the past, I had some garden beds with grids and some without grids. After using both, I can say the ones with grids have several advantages:
Garden beds with planting gridsutilize space more efficiently by eliminating the need for rows.
Using a garden grid helps you see exactly where there is space to plant. When I see an empty square, I’m quick to fill it with seeds or plants. In the past, empty spots in beds without grids were often left empty.
Garden grids help an unorganized gardener (like me) be more organized – I don’t have to worry about straight rows.
Following plant-spacing guidelines with garden grids allows for proper spacing between plants. This prevents overcrowding, which causes plants to compete for limited resources of sun, water, and nutrients.
Using garden grids in your garden beds allows for a system of polyculture (several compatible plants growing together) as opposed to monoculture (row after row of the same crop) which is better for pest and disease prevention.
Which type of garden grids should I use for square foot gardening?
Once I realized the benefits of using grids with square foot gardening, I added grids to all of my raised beds. My favorite way to add grids for square foot gardening is with the Garden Grid™ from Garden In Minutes.
Assembly is simple; the garden grids come in preassembled sections that press together by hand in seconds.
At the end of each season, it’s easy to lift the grid off of the bed to add compost to fill the beds. With my previous grids made of wood, it was difficult to add compost because the grids were screwed into the beds.
Each square is watered evenly with 16 water streams, which helps seed germination.
How do I know how many seeds or plants to put in each square?
Now for the fun part – adding plants to your square foot garden. To calculate how many plants or seeds to plant per square, look at the back of your seed packet. Ignore the space between rows, but pay attention to how much space is needed between plants.
For example:
3″ plant spacing = plant 16 in each square.
4″ plant spacing = plant 9 in each square.
6″ plant spacing = plant 4 in each square.
12″ plant spacing = plant 1 in each square.
Some plants (such as melons, large squash, and tomatoes) require more than one square.
Use this tool to space seeds perfectly in your square foot garden.
Plant-spacing guidelines for garden grids
You can also use this plant-spacing guide from Garden In Minutes to easily see how many plants to plant per square.
Plant spacing guide for square foot gardens
Why is plant spacing important in square foot gardens?
Follow the plant-spacing guidelines. Planting the recommended amounts allows you to utilize all the space in the beds without overcrowding. Proper spacing ensures adequate airflow for plants.
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Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed – they are grown from slips. A slip is a rooted sprout from a mature sweet potato. You can order sweet potato slips online, or you can grow your own. If you’re wondering how to grow sweet potato slips, you’ve come to the right place.
Begin the process about 8-12 weeks before your planting date for sweet potatoes. Here in the low desert of Arizona, our planting window for sweet potatoes is from March – June.
How to grow sweet potato slips: Decide which method you would like to use
There are a few methods for growing sweet potato slips. I’m sharing three successful methods I’ve used.
1. The Traditional Water Method
The traditional method of making sweet potato slips is suspending the sweet potato in water. This method works, but often takes 6-8 weeks (or more) to produce slips.
Choose this method if you have plenty of time before you plant and don’t have indoor lighting. A bright window works well for this method.
Pros: Simple
Cons: Takes longer; requires frequent changing of water.
In my experience, the indoor soil method of making sweet potato slips is a much faster way to make sweet potato slips. This method usually takes around 4-6 weeks.
Choose this method if you would like slips faster, and you have bright indoor lighting available.
Pros: Quickest method
Cons: Requires indoor lighting & heat mat for best results. Must keep the soil moist. Chance for potato rotting.
The first step for all three methods is to choose a healthy organic sweet potato. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated with a sprout inhibitor.
Do you have a sweet potato beginning to sprout in the cupboard? Perfect! Now you have a head start in whichever method for sprouting sweet potato slips you choose.
1. Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips
Suspend half the sweet potato in a jar of water using toothpicks.
Does it matter which half of the potato is submerged in water when making sweet potato slips? Yes, the rooting end should go in the water. Here are a few ways to determine the difference between the rooting end and the sprouting end:
Look for small thin roots on one end. This is the rooting end.
One end may be larger with more eyes. This is the sprouting end.
The end of the sweet potato that tapers is typically the rooting end.
You want the bottom (rooting) half to be immersed in water and the top (sprouting) half above the jar. Roots will form in the water, and sprouts will form in the top part of the potato.
Providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
Keep the water level up in the jar and keep thewater fresh by replacing it every week or so. Within a few weeks, roots will develop first, and then sprouts will start to form on the suspended potato.
Nestle sweet potatoes in soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Place the lid under the pan to catch any excess water coming out of the holes.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
Once again, providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
If the sweet potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
In about a week, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week or two, small sprouts will begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slip.
You may be able to remove the slip with roots attached. If so, you can go ahead and plant. If there are no roots, go ahead to the next step.
3. “Outdoor soil method” for making sweet potato slips
Bury the sweet potato halfway in warm soil.
Check soil temperature. Once the soil is at least 65°F (18°C), you can begin.
Bury the bottom (rooting half) of sweet potatoes in the soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Use a milk jug or cloche to warm the soil and encourage rooting and sprouting.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
If at any time the potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
Sprouts forming using the outdoor soil method of starting sweet potato slips
Within a week or two, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week, small sprouts should begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato.
Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slips from the sweet potato and begin the next step.
Whichever method you choose for making sweet potato slips (the water method or either soil method), the next steps are the same:
When sprouts are about 5-6 inches tall, remove sprouts from the sweet potato by carefully twisting off or cutting off at soil level.
Remove lower leaves from sprouts and let “root” in a jar of water. Roots will develop quickly; you should begin to see roots in 1-2 days.
Keep the water level high in the jar. Switch out the water about once a week to keep the water fresh. Discard wilted or rotten slips.
Once roots are fully formed and several inches long, it’s time to plant.
Plant the rooted sweet potato slips about 12-18 inches apart and 4 inches deep.
Water newly-planted slips well.
Root slips before planting
One sweet potato will produce a dozen or more sprouts. Allow sweet potato to continue rooting and producing slips until you have as many as you (and your neighbors) need.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
If this post about how to make sweet potato slips was helpful, please share it:
Sweet potatoes aren’t grown from seed – they are grown from slips. A slip is a rooted sprout from a mature sweet potato. You can order sweet potato slips online, or you can grow your own. If you’re wondering how to grow sweet potato slips, you’ve come to the right place.
Begin the process about 8-12 weeks before your planting date for sweet potatoes. Here in the low desert of Arizona, our planting window for sweet potatoes is from March – June.
How to grow sweet potato slips: Decide which method you would like to use
There are a few methods for growing sweet potato slips. I’m sharing three successful methods I’ve used.
1. The Traditional Water Method
The traditional method of making sweet potato slips is suspending the sweet potato in water. This method works, but often takes 6-8 weeks (or more) to produce slips.
Choose this method if you have plenty of time before you plant and don’t have indoor lighting. A bright window works well for this method.
Pros: Simple
Cons: Takes longer; requires frequent changing of water.
In my experience, the indoor soil method of making sweet potato slips is a much faster way to make sweet potato slips. This method usually takes around 4-6 weeks.
Choose this method if you would like slips faster, and you have bright indoor lighting available.
Pros: Quickest method
Cons: Requires indoor lighting & heat mat for best results. Must keep the soil moist. Chance for potato rotting.
The first step for all three methods is to choose a healthy organic sweet potato. Organic potatoes are less likely to be treated with a sprout inhibitor.
Do you have a sweet potato beginning to sprout in the cupboard? Perfect! Now you have a head start in whichever method for sprouting sweet potato slips you choose.
1. Traditional “water method” of making sweet potato slips
Suspend half the sweet potato in a jar of water using toothpicks.
Does it matter which half of the potato is submerged in water when making sweet potato slips? Yes, the rooting end should go in the water. Here are a few ways to determine the difference between the rooting end and the sprouting end:
Look for small thin roots on one end. This is the rooting end.
One end may be larger with more eyes. This is the sprouting end.
The end of the sweet potato that tapers is typically the rooting end.
You want the bottom (rooting) half to be immersed in water and the top (sprouting) half above the jar. Roots will form in the water, and sprouts will form in the top part of the potato.
Providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
Keep the water level up in the jar and keep thewater fresh by replacing it every week or so. Within a few weeks, roots will develop first, and then sprouts will start to form on the suspended potato.
Nestle sweet potatoes in soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Place the lid under the pan to catch any excess water coming out of the holes.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
Once again, providing warmth (a seedling warming mat or on top of the refrigerator) and light (a grow light or sunny window) will speed up the process considerably.
If the sweet potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
In about a week, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week or two, small sprouts will begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato. Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slip.
You may be able to remove the slip with roots attached. If so, you can go ahead and plant. If there are no roots, go ahead to the next step.
3. “Outdoor soil method” for making sweet potato slips
Bury the sweet potato halfway in warm soil.
Check soil temperature. Once the soil is at least 65°F (18°C), you can begin.
Bury the bottom (rooting half) of sweet potatoes in the soil, covering about half the potato with soil.
Use a milk jug or cloche to warm the soil and encourage rooting and sprouting.
Keep soil moist as roots and sprouts form.
If at any time the potato becomes soft or rotten, you may need to begin again.
Sprouts forming using the outdoor soil method of starting sweet potato slips
Within a week or two, if you wiggle the sweet potato, you will feel that roots are forming in the soil. Within another week, small sprouts should begin to grow from the top of the sweet potato.
Once several sprouts have grown to 5-6 inches long, remove the slips from the sweet potato and begin the next step.
Whichever method you choose for making sweet potato slips (the water method or either soil method), the next steps are the same:
When sprouts are about 5-6 inches tall, remove sprouts from the sweet potato by carefully twisting off or cutting off at soil level.
Remove lower leaves from sprouts and let “root” in a jar of water. Roots will develop quickly; you should begin to see roots in 1-2 days.
Keep the water level high in the jar. Switch out the water about once a week to keep the water fresh. Discard wilted or rotten slips.
Once roots are fully formed and several inches long, it’s time to plant.
Plant the rooted sweet potato slips about 12-18 inches apart and 4 inches deep.
Water newly-planted slips well.
Root slips before planting
One sweet potato will produce a dozen or more sprouts. Allow sweet potato to continue rooting and producing slips until you have as many as you (and your neighbors) need.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
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I’m embarrassed to admit that I’d been gardening for 12 years before I had my soil tested. In previous years, I considered testing my soil, but when I looked into how to test your soil, it seemed complicated and expensive.
The more I gardened, however, I wanted to know (not guess!) what was going on in my soil. I first saw the MySoil Test Kits on Instagram and thought they looked simple and inexpensive enough to try soil testing.
I sent my first test kit to MySoil in 2020, and I’ve used it to test my soil ever since. The soil testing process is simple and quick. I get my results back within a few days with recommendations about what my soil needs.
Now, I test my soil at the beginning of our growing seasons (early spring and fall) and give my soil what it actually needs rather than what I think it needs.
When to Test Your Soil
We ask a lot of our garden soil. Plants need to sprout, grow, and produce a harvest within a few weeks or months. “A healthy garden starts with healthy soil.” Testing your soil takes the guesswork out of what your soil needs.
Plants may give you signs that nutrient levels are not ideal, including:
Purple leaves are likely due to a phosphorus deficiency.
Yellow leaves with green veining may mean a lack of iron.
Green leaves with yellow centers can mean many things, including a lack of nitrogen.
Good times to test your soil include:
At the beginning of each season.
Mid-season to check on nutrient levels before fertilizing.
If your garden is not performing well.
A soil test will confirm your suspicions and/or give you a clearer picture of what is happening with your soil. Armed with this information, you can successfully treat the “root of the problem,” not just the symptoms.
How to Test Your Soil in 5 Simple Steps
1. Decide how many kits you need and order them
If the same soils are used across your garden with similar management, then you may just need one kit.
If you have different soils (in-ground vs. raised beds, fruit trees, etc.) or different ages of soils (older vs. newer areas), you may need to split each area into its own testing zone.
For example, my garden has three sections of raised beds that were added at three different times and a large in-ground area. As such, I use four kits for my garden.
Complete the process of collecting samples separately for each testing area. If you are testing more than one area, label the registration form so you know which test goes with which area.
Pull soil from 5-7 different spots/locations to a depth of 6 inches. I dump the soil samples into the box, then close the lid and shake it to mix it up. Remove large pieces of bark or mulch.
Fill the included scoop (level) with the thoroughly-mixed sample.
Dump the filled scoop into the sample jar with the water and nutrient-absorbing capsule.
Tighten the lid and put the filled jar in the prepaid mailing envelope.
Seal the prepaid envelope and drop it off at the post office.
3. Register your kit(s) and create account
Once you send off your kit, use the registration forms to register the kit(s) at mysoiltesting.com. Use the portal to track your test.
Check your email for a notification that your test is ready (mine went to spam, so check spam if you don’t see it within a few days). Sign in to your customer portal and view your report(s) in your dashboard.
4. Review the test results
Each report includes a bar graph with a quick view of your results.
The report shows whether any of the nutrients in your soil are within, below, or above the optimal range. It also includes results for soil nutrient availability, pH, and macro- and micronutrients.
The next time you test your soil, you can compare the results to the previous test to see how your soil is improving/changing over time.
5. Follow the fertilizer, pH, and micronutrient recommendations
In addition to your results, the report will show the recommended actions to improve your soil’s nutrient level or pH level. You can see the products they recommend along with application rates.
Plants need several nutrients to grow well. These nutrients are normally divided into two groups: macronutrients and micronutrients.
The macronutrients needed by plants are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and sulfur.
Some common micronutrients needed by plants are boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, and zinc. Micronutrients are just as important as macronutrients, just needed in smaller amounts.
With your report, you can make informed decisions about which amendments to add and how much to use. It’s best to work the recommended products into the soil before planting.
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If your property has access to flood irrigation, you know the benefits of deep watering for your landscape plants and trees. However, flooding your garden every 13 days may not be practical for watering raised beds and vegetable gardens. There is a way to water your garden using flood irrigation water that works well. This blog post explains how to install a flood irrigation system to effectively water your garden and raised beds.
After the initial effort and investment, it is a low-cost solution for watering your garden. Not only does this method avoid the chemicals associated with treated water, but it is also much less expensive for the home gardener. Let’s dive into how to water your garden and yard using flood irrigation.
What is flood irrigation?
Flood irrigation is a system that captures and uses excess water from rainfall or snowmelt and provides a natural, chemical-free water source for your plants.
In the Phoenix Valley, most irrigation water originates from SRP’s 13,000-square-mile watershed. It channels melted snow and rain into the Verde and Salt rivers. SRP then routes the irrigation water to the customer through lakes, dams, canals, and laterals.1
Homeowners in flood-irrigated areas have access to irrigation runs every 13 days with a dry-up period (for canal repairs) during the winter. The average cost for irrigation water is $6.80 per hour.
According to AMWUA, ”about 22,000 homeowners receive flood irrigation or about 5 percent of SRP lands.”2
My property does not have flood irrigation (I wish it did!), but my neighbor Larry Burnett‘s property does. I’m sharing the method he developed to use flood irrigation to water his garden.
Larry cleared the use of this method for his property with the Roosevelt Water Conservation District. Check with local authorities to ensure you comply with local laws or water regulations.
What are the benefits of flood-irrigated water?
Flood irrigation offers a cost-effective, untreated water source rich in nutrients that promotes robust root systems by storing water deeper in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering and saline buildup. This method helps protect vegetation from drought and significantly reduces water evaporation compared to traditional sprinklers.1
What are the challenges of using flood irrigation to water your garden?
Gardens often need watering more often than every 13 days.
You need more control over the amount of water than flooding with irrigated water offers.
Flood irrigation relies on gravity, so water can’t reach raised beds or other elevated areas.
How to water your garden and landscape plants with flood irrigation
1. Install a storage tank (or multiple tanks, depending on your water needs) and an internal pump
Select a tank (or tanks) based on your water needs. Check your water bill to get an idea of your outdoor landscape usage. Choose a location close to your sprinkler system if possible. Tanks should be opaque to prevent algae growth.
Install an internal pump (you’ll need to add electricity) to the tank. The pump will provide the water pressure to the drip lines.
Each tank needs:
Electrical line (to run the pump)
City water line
Sprinkler line
2-inch PVC hose connection
Overflow
Drain
2. Connect the tank to your sprinkler system and city water
Connect the tank and irrigation water to the existing sprinkler system. The tank then becomes an additional source, along with the city water for the sprinkler system.
Connect the tank to the incoming city water. This allows you to fill the tank with city water if needed. Install a switch on the line to your sprinkler system to enable switching between city water and irrigation water.
3. Fill the tank each time you have irrigation
When it’s your turn for irrigation, use an external pump to fill the tank.
A pump and 2-inch line allow Larry to fill his tank in 20-30 minutes during his regular irrigation runs.
Larry also suggests running your sprinklers and drips during the time you have irrigation while you are filling up your tank. This takes full advantage of water coming into your yard during your irrigation slot.
4. Use water from the tank to water your yard and garden
The internal pump provides the water pressure (especially as the tank empties) for the drip lines. It may take some experimentation to figure out the correct water pressure.
Ideally, your water pressure using the tank / or incoming city water is the same. If the pressure is different, your watering times will vary based on which water source you are using.
Adjust your valves as needed so you know how much water you use and how long it takes to water your garden and drip system.
5. Switch to city water as needed if the tank empties
If you run out of stored flood irrigation water, switch back to using city water.
Look at ways to lower your water usage or install an additional tank if you run out and use city water between each irrigation cycle.
Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post.
Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively.
He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds.
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Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed.
In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
How does vermicomposting work?
Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!
During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.
What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?
Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil.
Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil.
The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants.
Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
Worm castings from vermicomposting
What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?
A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin.
No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed.
Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin
When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to my garden beds?
If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.
Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?
Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.
That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farmhere in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.
How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?
Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:
The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
Bin (see options below).
Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
Kitchen scraps – Perfect worm food includes bananas, watermelon, pumpkin, strawberries, apples, and more. I keep them on the counter in this container until I add them to the bins.
Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. I get mine from Arizona Worm Farm. Look for a local supplier if possible. If you can’t find one you can get them online here. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.
Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:
The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:
A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds. They are available at Dollar Tree or Amazon.
Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.
Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:
1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.
2. Place the bin in the hole.
3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.
4. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms. Red wigglers are preferred. I get mine from Arizona Worm Farm. Look for a local supplier if possible. If you can’t find one you can get them online here.
5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.
6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.
7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.
8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.
9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.
10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.
How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?
I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.
You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.
Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.
Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.
Feed worms in moderation: Bread, potatoes, pasta, rice and other starchy foods
Avoid feeding worms: Citrus, meats, bones, eggs (crushed shells are ok), dairy products, processed foods, salty or greasy food, and pet waste.
Tips for feeding worms:
Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.
Greens
Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells
Browns
Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper
Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process.
Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies.
Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating.
The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding.
Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?
Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.
The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.
The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.
Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket.Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?
Answer: The worms go through the beds, and some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.
Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.
Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?
Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has. Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.
Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How often do you add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?
Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.
Question: Can you add chicken poopto the buckets?
Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.
Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?
Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin.
Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?
Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep.
Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins?
Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area more moist, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps.
Question:Will in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?
Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move, they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?
Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.
Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100. The bed has good drainage, and a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?
Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.
Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?
Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.
More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:
Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?
Answer:Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.
Question: Are red wigglers native?
Answer: Red Wigglers are not native to the US – No worm is- they were all killed off during the Ice Age. But, Reds are not considered invasive. Especially in Arizona. They stay where they are at and can’t live in our natural native soils.
Question: Is cardboard toxic?
In our world, it is hard to avoid all chemicals. Cardboard is the most heavily used packaging material, and feeding it to our plants and trees is the best way to make use of a very valuable resource. The benefits of feeding it to our worms (and then our plants) dramatically outweigh any other option. If it’s painted with colored ink from overseas, it is very remotely possible that it has toxic heavy metals. Almost all the inks used in the US (something like 99.3%) are made from soybean oil and are completely harmless. It is also possible (but not likely) that the adhesives include formaldehyde. But, Formaldehyde also occurs naturally in the soil. It is produced during the decay of plant material in levels considered safe.
Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?
Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread).
Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?
Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help.
Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started.
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If your property has access to flood irrigation, you know the benefits of deep watering for your landscape plants and trees. However, flooding your garden every 13 days may not be practical for watering raised beds and vegetable gardens. There is a way to water your garden using flood irrigation water that works well. This blog post explains how to install a flood irrigation system to effectively water your garden and raised beds.
After the initial effort and investment, it is a low-cost solution for watering your garden. Not only does this method avoid the chemicals associated with treated water, but it is also much less expensive for the home gardener. Let’s dive into how to water your garden and yard using flood irrigation.
What is flood irrigation?
Flood irrigation is a system that captures and uses excess water from rainfall or snowmelt and provides a natural, chemical-free water source for your plants.
In the Phoenix Valley, most irrigation water originates from SRP’s 13,000-square-mile watershed. It channels melted snow and rain into the Verde and Salt rivers. SRP then routes the irrigation water to the customer through lakes, dams, canals, and laterals.1
Homeowners in flood-irrigated areas have access to irrigation runs every 13 days with a dry-up period (for canal repairs) during the winter. The average cost for irrigation water is $6.80 per hour.
According to AMWUA, ”about 22,000 homeowners receive flood irrigation or about 5 percent of SRP lands.”2
My property does not have flood irrigation (I wish it did!), but my neighbor Larry Burnett‘s property does. I’m sharing the method he developed to use flood irrigation to water his garden.
He cleared the use of this method with the Roosevelt Water Conservation District. Check with local authorities to ensure you comply with local laws or water regulations.
What are the benefits of flood-irrigated water?
Flood irrigation offers a cost-effective, untreated water source rich in nutrients that promotes robust root systems by storing water deeper in the soil, reducing the need for frequent watering and saline buildup. This method helps protect vegetation from drought and significantly reduces water evaporation compared to traditional sprinklers.1
What are the challenges of using flood irrigation to water your garden?
Gardens often need watering more often than every 13 days.
You need more control over the amount of water than flooding with irrigated water offers.
Flood irrigation relies on gravity, so water can’t reach raised beds or other elevated areas.
How to water your garden and landscape plants with flood irrigation
1. Install a storage tank (or multiple tanks, depending on your water needs) and an internal pump
Select as large a tank as will fit in your space. Choose a location close to your sprinkler system if possible. A 1750-gallon tank holds up to 2000 gallons when full.
2. Connect the tank to your sprinkler system
Connect the tank and irrigation water to the existing sprinkler system. Install a switch to enable switching between city water and irrigation water.
3. Fill the tank each time you have irrigation
When it’s your turn for irrigation, use an external pump to fill the tank. Run a 2-inch PVC discharge hose from the pump to your tank. Turn on the pump and fill up the tank.
A pump and 2-inch line allow Larry to fill his tank in 20-30 minutes during his regular irrigation runs.
Larry also suggests running your sprinklers and drips during the time you have irrigation while you are filling up your tank. This takes full advantage of water coming into your yard during your irrigation slot.
4. Use water from the tank to water your yard and garden.
The internal pump provides the water pressure (especially as the tank empties). It may take some experimentation to figure out the correct water pressure. Adjust your valves as needed so you know how much water you use and how long it takes to water your garden and drip system.
5. Switch to city water as needed if the tank empties
If you run out of stored irrigation water, switch back to using city water from the storage water. Install an additional tank if you run out and use city water between each irrigation cycle.
Thank you to Larry Burnett for contributing to this post.
Larry Burnett is a retired Administrator from Banner Health and a Partner from KPMG. Larry has lived in Arizona since 1984 and gardened here extensively.
He is a Master Gardener through the University of Arizona and a mentor for Master Gardener students. His favorite time of the day is when he is outside in his greenhouse, garden, and flower beds.
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Learn how to make nutrient-rich organic worm castings tea for bigger harvests, healthier trees & pest-free gardens. Zach from Arizona Worm Farm shares his recipe.
Worm castings tea, also known as vermicompost tea, worm compost tea, or worm casting tea, is a nutrient-rich, organic fertilizer brewed by soaking worm castings (and other ingredients), in aerated water. It’s a natural way to feed your plants and boost soil health, teeming with beneficial microbes and minerals.
Zach from Arizona Worm Farm has spent the last five years perfecting his recipe, and now he’s sharing it with us so we can learn how to make worm castings tea at home.
How & Why to Make Worm Castings Tea: Zach’s Recipe for a Pest Free Garden
It’s a lot of trouble – so let’s start with why. Quite simply: Your vegetable yield will increase. Your trees will be healthier. Your flowers will be bug-free.
What are the benefits of worm castings tea?
There’s a lot of soil science – pure academic research and decades of field testing that backs up this basic concept: if you suspend microbes in clean water and add air, the microbes will multiply dramatically. When you then transfer that microbe-laden brew into your soils and onto your plants, the microbes thrive and do what they do almost immediately.
Here’s what all those microbes do:
Help produce thicker leaves so your plants protect themselves against frost, sunburn, and pests.
Rapidly convert organic matter from the soil into food for your plants.
Tell your plants there are pests present before those pests arrive, so your plant protects itself from the inside out.
Extend the reach of your plant’s roots so your plants grow better with less water.
Eat harmful microbes.
Improve soil structure through the formation of soil aggregates.
Increase soil porosity, resulting in better aeration and water retention.
Stop the degradation of soil pollutants and provide pH buffering.
Convinced about the benefits of worm castings tea? Let’s talk about how to make it.
Worm castings tea recipe development
Over the last five years, I have run more than 125 experiments where a standard recipe was compared to variations of ingredients or procedures.
We then looked for and counted microbes under a microscope.
Worm castings experiment findings:
The 27-hour brewing time increased protozoa activity.
Humic acid stimulated fungi activity.
Kelp stimulated protozoa activity.
Fish fertilizer stimulated fungi activity and increased nutrient content.
Worm castings resulted in increased fungi content.
I am going to share our recipe and approach – although I will reiterate, that this is a bit of a bother, and you need the correct inputs to get this right.
We sell it fresh every Saturday morning here at the Worm Farm. An easier option is to just come by a gallon or two.
Use fresh and varied inputs for the best tea
Start with as varied and healthy a collection of microbes as possible. Use your castings, fresh from your worm bin, and your compost, fresh from your piles. Use other sources of microbes like hydrated mulch that is breaking down or mushroom compost.
Worm castings from in-bed vermicomposting bins
If you don’t have your own, buy them from a local farm where you can get fresh. The big box compost and worm castings sealed in plastic do not have much microbial life. If you come here to my farm and want inputs for your tea, tell us so we can sell you unscreened material.
Decomposed hydrated wood chip mulch
We don’t screen any of the inputs before we use them to make our tea here. The compost and castings will have larger chunks of wood than our typical commercial product. This mostly serves to reduce microbe exposure to heat and dryness and to avoid breaking fungal hyphae strands.
The other ingredients are humic extract, kelp meal, fish hydrolysate, and Arizona Worm Farm’s BSFL Nutrient +. How many of these you use is up to you. The extra additives will improve the tea but are not essential.
A “tea bag” (You can add the material to the water and aerate it, but the bag makes it easier to spray and use in our gardens.)
A pump that can produce a “rolling boil” – bubbles that make the water look like it is boiling hard – with no heat. We recommend this home brewing kit from Compost Tea Lab. It contains a pump, a bubble snake, and a tea bag.
5 Gallons (19 liters) of pure well water, collected rainwater, or city water allowed to sit out overnight. *see note
12 oz (340g) worm castings
4 oz (113g) of unscreened handmade compost
4 oz (113g) decomposed wood chip mulch (hydrated)
2 Tablespoons (30g) humic acid
2 Tablespoons (30g) kelp meal
2 Tablespoons (30g) fish hydrolysate
2 Tablespoons (30g) AZWF BSFL Nutrient+
Directions
Place the bubble snake in the bucket.
Add 5 gallons of water to the bucket. (see temperature note below)
Fill the compost tea bag with castings, compost, and mulch.
Tie the tea bag to the snake.
Add liquid and powdered ingredients to the bucket.
Turn on the pump.
Replace ingredients in the tea bag with fresh castings, compost, and mulch after 1 hour and again after 2 hours. After the 3rd hour of aeration, take the tea bag out of the bucket. (Add spent ingredients to garden beds or containers.)
Continue aerating the tea for 21-24 hours, but not longer.
Use tea within 2-3 hours. The microbes begin dying when you take the tea off the bubbler. After 4 hours, the numbers return to where you started.
* A note about water: Most city water has chlorine to kill parasites, bacteria, and viruses. It kills the bad stuff but also kills the good stuff. If you only have access to city water, add water to the bucket and let it sit overnight. The chlorine will dissipate. If you are in a hurry, boiling for 15 minutes will have the same effect. Allow to cool before use.
Temperature: Keep water temperature between 60-70°F (15.5-21°C)–above 85°F-90°F (29-32°C) is too hot.
Recipe courtesy of Zach Brooks, owner of Arizona Worm Farm
Printable copy of the worm castings recipe:
How to apply worm castings tea
There are many ways to apply tea – and they are all easy.
As a soil drench: Pour it on the soil around your plants. Add 2 gallons of water to each gallon of tea for a soil drench. Or use it at full strength and then water the soil well.
Foliar feed: Add it to a hose-end sprayer and spray it as a foliar feed.
Just before summer to get plants ready for the heat.
Use it as often as weekly; it only does good. However, more than four times a year is probably not worth the time and money.
2. When setting up new garden beds or adding fresh soil
Apply tea when you set up a new bed (to get the soil ready). For best results, apply it a week or two before you plant, and then keep the soil watered like you had plants in it.
3. When planting new trees
Using worm castings tea when you plant new trees has been shown to dramatically reduce transplant shock and help new trees establish roots.
4. To add microbes when fertilizing your fruit trees
If you grow citrus, you may be familiar with citrus suckers. Suckers can wreak havoc on tree growth and production if left unchecked. Citrus sprouts can cause problems as well. Learn how to identify both citrus suckers and sprouts, why they are harmful to citrus trees, and what to do when you find them.
What are citrus suckers?
Suckers are shoots that grow from the trunk below the bud or graft union. They are often mistaken for new growth from the desired citrus variety, but suckers are a different plant altogether.
Look for the graft union on the trunk, which will appear as a visible seam or bump. If the growth is coming out below the graft union, it’s likely a sucker.
Suckers will grow straight up and typically resemble a thin, spindly stem with few leaves. The leaves often have a trifoliate leaf shape (characterized by a leaf divided into three leaflets). Shoots may also grow up through the soil around the tree; these should also be removed.
Bud or graft union:Place where the bud of the citrus variety was grafted onto the rootstock. Look for an area where the bark changes texture or the diameter of the trunk changes.
Rootstock: Another citrus variety that the citrus is grafted onto. Rootstocks are chosen to improve disease resistance, growth, or fruit quality. Standard rootstocks in Arizona are Flying Dragon, Trifoliate Orange, Sour Orange, Smooth Flat Seville, C-35, and Carrizo Citrange.1
What are citrus sprouts?
These quick-growing shoots are also called “water sprouts” or “suckers” and can be found below and above the bud union. They are green and without bark (herbaceous). Sprouts growing above the bud union are the same variety as the desired tree (not the rootstock).
Citrus sprouts grow straight up either from the trunk or large limbs. They develop excessive thorns and little, if any, fruit. Their leaf shape may also differ from the grafted variety. 2
Lemon trees especially often have vigorous, thorny sprouts that grow quite tall.
Do you have to remove citrus suckers and sprouts?
Suckers take vital resources away from the desired citrus variety and can ultimately result in stunted tree growth and reduced fruit production. Fruit formed on suckers will be the rootstock variety – usually a bitter or sour orange. If left unattended, citrus suckers will continue to sprout and can even take over the entire tree.
Sprouts left unchecked can make harvesting the desired fruit difficult. Also, If left to grow, sprouts and suckers can out-compete the grafted tree’s canopy. If sprouts form fruit, they will be unpalatable. A water sprout often cannot support the weight of fruit and may break.
You may decide to leave sprouts that emerge above the graft line in place to fill in the canopy, but typically they are removed.
How do you remove sprouts and suckers?
If you do find citrus suckers on your tree, it’s essential to remove them promptly. The best way to remove suckers is by removing them by hand when they are young. Grasp the sucker firmly, and pull down. The sucker should break off near the trunk.
If they are too large to remove by hand, cut off with clean pruners as close to the rootstock as possible.
When to remove citrus sprouts and suckers
Remove small sprouts and suckers by hand at any time throughout the year.
Remove larger sprouts and suckers during the early spring. This gives the tree time to grow new foliage to shade newly exposed wood to damage from the summer sun. Removing larger limbs from May – October may open up the trunk or inside of the tree to sun damage. Any exposed wood should be protected from sunlight with white paint.2
Citrus suckers and sprouts can be a nuisance for citrus tree growers, but with proper identification and removal, you can keep your trees healthy and productive.
