As the new owner of Etta Collective attempts to distance itself from the bankruptcy filings of former owner David Pisor, the banks are pressing forward with efforts to collect debts. Records show Pisor has defaulted on the $1.4 million mortgage for the West Town building that houses Aya Pastry.
Wintrust Bank has filed a lawsuit against Pisor and also lists his former business partner, Jim Lasky, in the complaint. Lasky’s attorneys have reiterated that their client has been long removed from Aya’s operations stemming from an acrimonious split between the parties in 2023. The two also founded Maple & Ash in Gold Coast and Etta. The latter had multiple locations while a Bucktown restaurant remains open under the new ownership of a Texas tech company. Johann Moonesinghe is the founder of InKind and took over Aya Pastry earlier this year after he won an auction for Etta Collective’s assets. Moonesinghe is now the tenant at 1332 W. Grand Avenue and tells Crain’s he’d be interested in buying the Aya building if it were made available. In Scottsdale, Arizona, an Etta outpost was recently sold to RDM Hospitality, an Austin, Texas company. The restaurant will relaunch in late September with renovations and a new modern Italian menu, according to a news release.
Back in Chicago, Aya Pastry’s namesake, acclaimed pastry chef Aya Fukai, left the bakery in 2023, but her name remains on all the branding. Fukai, who worked with Laksy and Pisor at Maple & Ash, opened the bakery with the pair in 2017. Her recipes also remain and several local coffee shops stock their pastry cases with doughnuts and croissants from the bakery. Fukai isn’t listed as a defendant in Wintrust’s lawsuit, filed Tuesday, September 10 in Cook County circuit court. Pisor kept Fukai’s departure quiet while dealing with the fallout from separating from Lasky. Over the summer, Lasky and chef Danny Grant announced expansion plans for the bar inside Maple & Ash, called Eight Bar. There’s hope of opening multiple locations across the country, and the duo has plans for Maple & Ash and Eight Bar combo in Miami. The steakhouse holds the cachet of being one of Restaurant Business Online’s highest-grossing independent restaurants in the country and tops in Chicago.
Last year, several former Etta workers protested, citing lapses in healthcare coverage and other operational concerns with Pisor. Meanwhile, Pisor tells Crain’s that he looks forward to resolving the matter concerning Wintrust quickly, describing the bank’s lawsuit as a baseless attack and a “technical default.”
Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises has brought its hit Ema to the suburbs hoping the North Shore appreciates chef and partner CJ Jacobson’s menu that mixes California cool with Mediterranean. The concept debuted in River North in 2016 and Lettuce has spun that into a sibling concept called Aba, which begot locations in Fulton Market; Austin, Texas; and Miami.
The buildout in Glenview is impressive, a radical departure from what most associate with the suburbs, taking a page from notable suburban debuts like RH Oak Brook, which channels the energy from the original in Gold Coast. The new Ema features a skylight and a light and breezy design with a track record in other markets.
In Glenview, Jacobson hopes to win over the lunch crowd with more salads — the chef says for the first time he’s offering a chopped salad (with arugula, romaine, cauliflower, caper, date, parmesan, olive, red pepper). A Caesar’s salad is made with a tahini-spiked dressing. The restaurant’s staple dips, including hummus with lamb ragu and a South Asian-street-influenced bhel hummus made with tamarind and mint chutney, are also available.
Jacobson mentions the restaurant’s origins, as LEYE co-founded Rich Melman wanted a Mediterranean restaurant. Jacobson doesn’t possess that family background, saying at first he only knew the cuisine through late-night kebob spots in LA. That’s one of the reasons Ema doesn’t focus on a particular region or country. Jacobson compares how Chinese and Italian cuisine proliferated in America, and how locals interpreted those foods using American ingredients. Jacobson feels foods from the Mediterranean haven’t had the chance to go through those filters, and that’s how he approaches Ema. For example, the lamb & beef kofta comes with a hoisin sauce, drawing from Chinese influences. Since Ema’s conception, Jacobson’s experience has endeared him to the culture and cuisine. He’s traveled to the region and he recounts spending time at a late-night Israeli club known for its hummus. After eight years of research, he says Ema has developed a point of view which is what’s made the brand successful.
Lamb & beef kofta.
Pita with spinach and feta spread.
Jacobson has worked with Lettuce since 2014, when he was one of the chefs at the company’s rotating Intro Chicago restaurant in Lincoln Park. He knows the company isn’t known for short menus. They’re big and feature many items to cater to the pickiest. Jacobson doesn’t necessarily agree with that philosophy and says he constantly worries that customers won’t branch out and try something new.
“Can we be good at all this stuff?” Jacobson asks rhetorically.
Lettuce Entertain You is Chicago’s largest restaurant group and the Melman family’s strategy of ensuring the customer is always right has been successful for 53 years. “I kind of get proved wrong time and time again,” Jacobson adds.
Jacobson ponders his future with Lettuce, saying that he’s due to pitch the Melmans on a new restaurant idea. While he ponders, he reflects on Ema and Aba.
“Anytime you spend this amount of time with a cuisine, it becomes a part of who you are,” he says.
Ema Glenview, 1320 Patriot Road in Glenview, lunch is 11:30 to 4 p.m., until 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday; dinner is 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thurday, until 10 p.m. on Friday; 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday.
A version of this post originally appeared on September 9, 2024, in Eater and Punch’s newsletter Pre Shift, a biweekly newsletter for the industry pro that sources first-person accounts from the bar and restaurant world. Subscribe now for more stories like this.
While Chicago’s public transit system isn’t as reliable as New York’s, it’s not as scarce as LA’s. Last year, the Chicago Transit Authority (CTA) provided 279 million rides, many of which were for hospitality staff, getting them to and from their place of employment. The Bear found a friend in the CTA, and for three seasons, the FX-produced TV show has relied on the city’s public transit system for plenty of footage, showing Chicago’s famous elevated train system, the El. Much of Season 3, Episode 6 is spent showing Tina Marrero (played by Liza Colón-Zayas) relying on trains and buses during her frantic job search.
But the CTA has drawn much ire in recent years. Low-wage workers like Tina rely on the system, but the city’s network of buses and trains hasn’t proved worthy. That’s especially true on the South and West sides, areas where the network doesn’t fully extend. For example, restaurant owners in Hyde Park, a South Side neighborhood where the University of Chicago is located, have shared that it’s been challenging to lure experienced hospitality workers. They’d rather work on the North Side, where there are more restaurants and it’s easier to get home at night.
While many restaurant workers also depend on their cars for their daily commute, despite Lake Michigan’s infamous spine-chilling winter winds, the city has its share of all-season cyclists, too. We connected with restaurant staff about their commute, talking about convenience, parking, and the power of bike lanes.
Name: Diana Dávila, chef and owner, Mi Tocaya Antojería Length of commute: Two miles Mode: Bike
“I have been a biker for — it’s crazy — the past 20 years. The first place I started biking was [now-closed] Butter. When I moved to D.C., I biked to work… I remember the bike rides when there weren’t bike lanes and I would take different routes, and that was part of the fun, finding which ways to take.
“It’s funny, I never nerded out about bikes. I would just go into the bike store and pick out which one looked nice. Shit, I’ve never been depressed, I’ve always been a super positive person, as a default. But once I didn’t feel like getting out of bed and I didn’t want to see anybody… Those 10-minute rides made such a big difference. It is a service to myself and is 100 percent a stress de-escalator at work for me — open air and sunlight or moonlight.
“Most of our employees live super close, and not everyone has cars. Cars eat income, which is why so many of us cooks ride bikes! Cars are a big responsibility, with permits, parking, insurance, tickets. Bike riding, scooting, and carpooling are great solutions. Just like what we used to do in school.”
Rishi Manoj Kumar from Mirra.Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
Name: Rishi Manoj Kumar, chef, Mirra Length of commute: Two blocks Mode: Walking
“The market to find apartments right now is horrible. The Bucktown neighborhood was hard, but I just kept searching and searching, and then suddenly, one day, I found what I’m living in now. It’s a block behind Mirra. It was a duplex and a duplex at two grand. Shit, this is unheard of in Chicago. So even before looking at it, I knew the proximity, I knew what it would bring for my peace of mind, like avoiding the traffic and even being able to go in on my days off. I can just walk through the restaurant and just check on things while I’m walking my dog, you know. And that proximity gives you so much freedom mentally, too. So it’s pretty dope.
“Avoiding a bad commute gives you a peace of mind coming to work. Otherwise you spend so much time getting ready, or getting stuck in traffic, like, ‘Oh shit, I’m stuck, I’m an hour late because of something like Lollapalooza going downtown.’ It takes forever to get downtown. For me, I worked eight years downtown, like, just getting to work meant preparing an extra 45 minutes just to make sure I’m turning up on time. That mental burden is gone once you can just, like, wake up, change, go to work in two minutes. It’s a whole different lifestyle.”
Billy Zureikat at a pop-up at Pequod’s.Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
Name: Billy Zureikat, pop-up chef, Tripping Billy Length of commute: Varies Mode: Car
“I drive everywhere. I don’t take public transportation anymore because it’s just too hard to navigate crowds. I got invited to the Windy City Smokeout and I’m like, ‘I’m gonna pass on that.’ It’s just too hard navigating with a cane [having limb girdle muscular dystrophy]. In an electric car, if I take my foot off the gas, the car will come to a straight-up complete stop. It regenerates your brakes, saving and repowering the battery, and is wonderful for me because I don’t have to pick up my legs and move around as much… It’s so much more comfortable and I feel safer when I drive.
“I have to allow myself more time. There’s a big lack of available parking, especially accessible parking. I’m not trying to walk three or four blocks to get to a pizzeria to do a pop-up. I’m going to circle that block for a while until I find a spot that’s fairly close, because many times I have to carry lots of equipment. And I can’t walk multiple blocks carrying a bunch of heavy things, so I have to allow myself time to get parking.
“I work remotely, so I can do my day job from anywhere. And that allows me the freedom to do these collaborations and pop-ups where I can go in the mid-morning, middle of the day — when it’s maybe a little quieter, traffic-wise — to get something done, or I can do it later in the evening. I have flexibility, and because I have a disability, my body has kind of changed over the years.”
The exterior of Obélix.Chris Peters/Eater Chicago
Name: Gustavo Lopez, food runner, Obélix Length of commute: Five miles Mode: Bike
“Recently, I got a Divvy [bikeshare] membership. I dragged my heels about it, but I thought, I’ll get it for the gimmick, because those e-bikes really interested me. I hopped on one, like, ‘Oh, wow. This is amazing.’ There’s so much power in those electric bikes. Since then, I’ve been on Divvy for about three years. The docking stations are sprawled all over the city, so it’s very convenient. I can get to my destination within minutes.
“If you want to bike [to the restaurant], and you’re chronically late, it’s more of a time management issue. I’m giving you a little leeway, but if you’re not here at the set time you’re supposed to be, then it just ruins the flow with the rest of the team. It doesn’t matter what the position is: server, expediter, food runner… We just pick up plates and just clear the table. The servers have to pick up the slack. It does add up. If there’s an event with traffic, I’m usually pretty vigilant about checking the news on Facebook and Instagram. I’ll avoid the busy streets. But, you know, you always have residual traffic. Thank God for bike lanes.”
Two years ago, Entree introduced itself to Chicago, taking over the South Loop space where the city’s only Michelin-starred restaurant south of Roosevelt stood. Entree delivered meal kits, searching for a sweet spot for folks fed up with fees and mistakes from third-party couriers and restaurant customers who missed eating out during the pandemic. As the business grew, its owners knew they had an asset in their dining room. They threw pop-ups and opened the bar area earlier this year while unveiling a new name for on-premise dining, Oliver’s.
In late August the time finally arrived as Oliver’s dining room finally debuted. The added real estate will give Oliver’s chef Alex Carnovale more room to play. He’s already established a menu of favorites including roast chicken, a burger, and diver scallops. The French Laundry alum has shown his ambitions while developing the menus for Entree’s delivery side. With Oliver’s, Carnovale no longer has to worry about whether his food will survive a car ride.
The space is warmer, with a supper club feeling that presents a departure from the modern vibe of the previous tenant. Specifically, Oliver’s was going for a 1930s speakeasy feel. It’s a comfy place to enjoy truffle gnocchi or tomato risotto. As the bar opened first, the drink program had time to mature under the leadership of Luke DeYoung who worked a Sepia and Scofflaw. A gin martini is garnished with caviar-stuffed olive. There are non-alcoholic options, and a deep wine list, too. Happy hour specials have already launched, and bar snacks include Italian beef popcorn, cheddar fries, and beef-fat griddled sourdough from Publican Quality Bread. The latter is served with whipped parmesan and steak sauce.
Walk through the space below. Oliver’s dining room is now open.
Oliver’s, 1930 S. Wabash Avenue, open 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, reservations via Tock.
Mike Krzyzewski still has memories of Chicago’s Polish Broadway, the stretch of Milwaukee Avenue near Wicker Park that was once a hub for Polish restaurants and businesses. The Naismith Basketball Hall of Fame coach grew up in the area and despite his long career at Duke University, the memories of Chicago cling to him.
“You know, every once in a while, some friends or my family will send me a care package of Polish sausage, one of the sandwich meats — I don’t know if they still make a Krakowska — and I just put it on white bread and eat it,” the 77-year-old hoops legend says. “My family would say, ‘You’ve got to put something on it, tomatoes, lettuce?’ I said, ‘No, no, no — it’s a good sandwich with good meat and good bread.’ Chicago food’s terrific.”
Krzyzewski will be in town later this month for a charity event through the V Foundation, raising money for cancer research. The event, called Chicago Epicurean, leverages the city’s prominence as one of the best places to eat in the country. The foundation is named after one of Krzyzewski’s friends and rivals, Jim Valvano, the former head men’s basketball coach at North Carolina State University. Valvano died in 1993 from metastatic adenocarcinoma. Krzyzewski says Valvano recruited him to be part of the foundation more than three decades ago and that’s why he sits on the V Foundation’s board.
Chicago Epicurean kicks off on Thursday, September 19, at the Aviary with an invite-only event hosted by chef Grant Achatz of three-Michelin-starred Alinea. Krzyzewski says he looks forward to meeting Achatz, as he’s been reading more about the chef’s recovery from Stage 4 cancer, a disease that forced surgeons to remove a part of the chef’s tongue. Achatz says it’s important to increase early cancer detection and to raise awareness among patients, clinicians, and pharmaceutical companies while empowering people to be their best advocates in a comfortable and confident environment.
“As a survivor of a lesser prevalent cancer type that is on the rise — especially in people under 30 — I feel it is my responsibility to raise awareness,” Achatz texts, adding: “I am happy to support the V Foundation in its efforts to combat this disease and bring a better quality of life to millions of people each year.”
The public-facing events include a cooking demonstration and lunch with Top Chef alum Fabio Viviani and the auction and gala on Friday, September 20, hosted by Coach K at City Hall in Fulton Market.
There are parallels between the intensity of restaurants and sports, the sometimes fiery Krzyzewski says. That was also noticed in The Bear, a TV series filmed in Chicago that cast Coach K unknowingly into a role the past two seasons. Coincidentally his middle daughter, Lindy, is nicknamed “Bear.” While Krzyzewski didn’t appear in the show, his book, Leading with the Heart: Coach K’s Successful Strategies for Basketball, Business, and Life becomes a source of inspiration and support for Ayo Edebiri’s Sydney Adamu. Krzyzewski and Edebiri share the same talent agency, CAA, and the coach has sent an autographed book to the actress.
“The passion and the intensity that’s shown up in that show is remarkable and that’s why they’ve won so many awards,” Krzyzewski says. “They’re seeking excellence, and they know in order to seek excellence you need everybody on the team seeking it and working as one. There’s a lot of pressure in those kitchens.”
He adds that the culinary world is “very innovative too. You’re not just making a hamburger or hot dog — they’re producing a hell of a lot more than that,” Krzyzewski says. “Although the Chicago hot dogs and hamburgers are pretty good, too.” (Krzyzewski confesses he loves pizza, but isn’t enamored with Chicago deep-dish.)
Krzyzewski says they didn’t dine out much at restaurants growing up, but enjoyed homemade pierogi and sauerkraut. The family was fond of the White Eagle, the event venue that’s famous among the city’s Polish community on the Northwest Side in Niles. Though Krzyzewski’s father, William, was an elevator operator, he would eventually dive into the world of hospitality. He ran a spot that mostly served quick breakfasts and lunches to factory workers near California and Cermak in Little Village: “He wasn’t doing through anything innovative,” Krzyzewski says. “It was really a hard business.”
His father would go on to run a tavern called Cross’ Tap near Damen and 21st Place on the Lower West Side. William Krzyzewski went by the name of “Cross” — his son says during the time of World War II, his family was impacted by ethnic discrimination.
A graduate of the U.S. Military Academy at West Point, Krzyzewski says he learned to enjoy different types of foods while depending on Army rations for sustenance. That comes in handy being away from Chicago in the realm of the Atlantic Coast Conference.
“My experience of being an Army officer and then traveling all over the United States and coaching is that you get spoiled by different foods from different cultures,” Krzyzewski says. “I’m also a big Las Vegas guy, and they have some of the amazing restaurants in the world, so I’ve adapted really well.”
While Krzyzewski says he isn’t interested in owning a restaurant, he says he does enjoy seeing friends, family, and former players post photos of their meals on social media.
“I like when people do that, and it also shows that you’re having a good time with friends, and so you would want friends to have a good time with family and friends, so they’re sharing that experience with them,” Krzyzewski says.
The sun is setting earlier and Chicago is prepping for football and fire pit season as fall approaches. Before we wave goodbye to summer festivals, let’s check out Eater Chicago’s 11 most anticipated restaurant openings for the fall.
But to do that, let’s look at the summer openings. From last season’s list, three restaurants were delayed to the fall. That’s not a bad conversation rate when there are a variety of reasons that can impact an opening date. For the fall, there are a pair of Beard winners with upcoming projects, a former Chicago Bear is about to open his second sports bar, a Top Chef winner is debuting a Fulton Market Roman spot for premier people-watching and a new tavern-style pizza spot in West Town.
A rendering of Cantina Rosa.Cantina Rosa
Address: 5230 S. Harper Avenue, Hyde Park
Key Players: Erick Williams, Jesus Garcia, Paul McGee
The fourth establishment from James Beard Award winner Erick Williams is a cocktail bar around the corner from Virtue in Hyde Park. Virtue GM Jesus Garcia is leading the project with a small bar bites menu inspired by Garcia’s native Mexico. As Williams and Garcia’s expertise is in restaurants, they’ve brought on noted barman Paul McGee to help with drinks and the flow of the space. They’re hopeful for a fall open.
Address: 2109 W. Chicago Avenue, West Town
Key Players: Land & Sea Dept., Beverage Director Megan Farnham, Land & Sea Culinary Director Dan Snowden
This West Town pizzeria’s progress provides a case study of how Chicago’s tavern-style pizza has soared into America’s mainstream. Land & Sea Dept. has converted its Chicago Avenue location of Parson’s Chicken & Fish into a pizzeria utilizing the patio of the existing space. This pizzeria didn’t debut in Chicago; the first location opened in 2022 in Nashville and has earned some national attention. Look for natural wines, micro beers, salads, and more. They’re targeting a fall opening.
Ema Glenview
Ema is expanding to the suburbs.Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
The North Shore is getting the second location of chef CJ Jacobson’s Ema, and it’s primed to give the suburbs a fun lunch and dinner option. Jacobson, a California native, has educated himself on cuisine from Israel, Iran, and other Middle Eastern countries. He feels those cuisines haven’t been as Americanized as food from China or Italy, and he feels Ema brings that type of perspective while leaning into Lettuce’s mantra of ensuring every customer is happy. For example: a kebob is made of brisket and is served with a hoisin barbecue sauce. Expect more salad options and a cute space with a skylight. The opening date is Tuesday, September 10.
Rosebud is going Mexican in Downtown Chicago.Rosebud
Tavern on Green was a popular spot for downtown happy hours, but shortly after the pandemic Rosebud on Randolph took over the space, but its life was cut short. Now, Rosebud chef Mauricio Gomez, who started at the company in 1991, will helm a Mexican restaurant inside the space at the corner of Randolph and Michigan. Look for a fall opening.
Gavroche’s facade on Wells Street.Gavroche
Address: 1529 N. Wells Street, Old Town
Key Players: Jason Chan, chef Mitchell Acuna
Wondering where industry vet Jason Chan has been? Chan, whose resume includes Juno, Kitana, Butter, and Urban Union, has been busy with what he’s calling a boutique restaurant, a 32-seater in Old Town, taking over a space that has seen spots like BomboBar and Wild Taco fizzle. Gavroche is a French restaurant that will serve both classic and modern fare. Chan and chef Mitchell Acuna — he worked at Boka, and North Pond — will offer an 18-item menu and Chan is particularly excited about serving sturgeon roe rarely found at restaurants from Polanco Caviar. They’re looking at an October opening and Chan jokes this would be a place where James Bond would take his wife for dinner.
Address: 51 W. Hubbard Street, River North
Key Players: Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, beverage director and partner Kevin Beary, chef and partner Bob Broskey
As River North recovers from the closure of Hub 51, Lettuce Entertain You is ready to introduce Chicagoans to a new bar — formerly called the Dip Inn. Inspired by an Italian restaurant, Gus’ Good Food, which stood at the same address from 1906 to 1966, the new spot, Gus’ Sip and Dip will feature a cocktail list of about 30 drinks from Kevin Beary (Three Dots and a Dash). Chef Bob Broskey’s menu will feature bar classics including dipped and traditional sandwiches. Late fall is the hope, but don’t be surprised at an early winter opening.
Joe FlammBarry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
Address: 1045 W. Fulton Market, Fulton Market
Key Players: Joe Flamm, Day Off Group
Chicago native Joe Flamm has zeroed in on Roman cuisine to star at his Fulton Market restaurant. It’s called il Carciofo and customers can look forward to Roman-style pizzas, noodles from a pasta lab, and decadent gelato and sorbet. Look for a fall opening
Chef Amar MansuriaIndgo
Address: 2101 S. Morgan Street, Pilsen
Key Players: Amar Mansuria, DJ Charlie Glitch
Construction is underway in Pilsen on this restaurant which will include several facets of Mexican and Indian cuisine. Amar Mansuria ran Cafe Indigo along 18th Street, and now he’s looking to expand with a bar, all-day cafe, and more. Mansuria wants to debut the space in phases starting this fall.
LOULOU
Jason Hammel wearing his James Beard medallion.Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
Key players: Jason Hammel, Amalea Tshilds, Siren Betty Design
Address: 3057 W. Logan Boulevard, Logan Square
At the end of August, Lula Cafe celebrated its 25th birthday with an avalanche of special dinners. Beyond the anniversary, the Logan Square icon has had an eventful summer as the restaurant won a James Beard Award in June. The fall will give Jason Hammel and company more time to apply the finishing touches at Loulou, located just a few blocks from Lula. Loulou isn’t a traditional restaurant. Hammel sees it more as a collaborative studio that will welcome artists, writers, and chefs, to host unique events that go beyond the boundaries of a typical eatery. In many ways, Loulou will channel the energy that Lula displayed when it opened in September 1999 harnessing a DIY spirit in a neighborhood that wasn’t known for its restaurants. Times have changed.
Soul & Smoke Evanston
Soul & Smoke’s ribs.Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
Address: 1601 Payne Street, Evanston
Key Players: D’Andre Carter, Heather Bublick
Soul & Smoke, owned by the husband-and-wife duo of D’Andre Carter and Heather Bublick, continues the journey toward upgrading the original location into a full-service restaurant. Soul & Smoke sells some of the city’s best barbecue brisket and ribs, and also has locations off the Chicago River in Avondale and West Loop at the Accenture Tower (they also serve fans on the 300 level at Soldier Field). The three locations somewhat limit Carter and Bublick, who have fine dining backgrounds. The improvements to the Evanston location will allow for an expanded menu, allowing specials a regular place on the menu, and cocktails. The opening has been pushed back, but the couple is hopeful for fall.
Former Bear Israel Idonije speaks a Soldier Field food preview.Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
Address: 1736 S. Michigan Avenue, South Loop
Key Players: Israel Idonije, chef Stephen Gillanders
Former Chicago Bear Israel Idonije has keyed on opening businesses in the South Loop. He’s already opened Signature, a sports bar with food from S.K.Y. chef Stephen Gillanders. The two are working on a second project, taking over the former Kroll’s South Loop. Named after A.E. Staley, the founder of the Bears, Staley’s will serve wings, chips and dips, sandwiches, and pizza. It will be open during Chicago Bear gamedays through September, starting on Sunday, September 8. The space won’t fully launch until October.
There’s a video I return to often. Posted just over 10 years ago by an essentially defunct blog called Houston Hip-Hop Fix, it shows Rich Homie Quan in a blue Argentina soccer kit and at least five necklaces. Quan and the interviewer are bathed off and on in the strobing red light of a cop car. There’s one microphone, so Quan and the host step on one another’s thoughts, deferring politely and shrugging apologies. The rapper runs through the sort of light mythmaking that marks all these interviews: Yes, the debut album is coming; no, no more free mixtapes; yes, music runs through my veins; no, I never touch pen to paper.
About 90 seconds into the clip, Quan starts talking about his relationship with Young Thug. He says they have unique chemistry in the studio, more boilerplate stuff. But a minute later––after a clumsy jump cut in the video—Quan says that he and Thug are going to release an EP. Most definitely, the interviewer says. Any plans on when that’s gonna drop? “Before the year’s out,” Quan replies. The interviewer asks whether he’d be willing to reveal the title. Quan declines, but he strokes his goatee, looks for a second into the camera––something he hasn’t done to this point––and raps his hand on the interviewer’s forearm for emphasis. “I can tell you this,” he says. “The EP me and Thug [are going to] drop? The hardest duo since Outkast.” The interviewer’s eyes widen. He starts to push back (“Now that’s—”), but Quan cuts him off. “I’m not being funny.” He presses. “I’m not putting too much on it. Hardest duo since Outkast.”
Quan, who passed away Thursday, one month before his 34th birthday, was always doing this: cocooning the audacious within a thick layer of charm and humility. He was a born hitmaker whose commercial career was compromised by record label issues, contractual lawsuits, and the industry’s uneven evolution over the course of the 2010s. Like Dre, Big Boi, and a host of other Southern pioneers, Quan wrote songs that smartly synthesized formal experimentation and personal introspection—with each new, clipped flow or harmonized aside, he seemed to burrow deeper into his own psyche. He leaves behind four sons.
Quan was born Dequantes Devontay Lamar in 1990 and was raised in Atlanta, where, as a teenager, he excelled as a center fielder and student of literature. He was less successful in a short-lived burglary career, which led to a 15-month bid shortly after he dropped out of Fort Valley State University. “It really sat me down and opened my eyes,” Quan told XXLof his time inside.
The first things you’d notice about his music were the titles. In 2012, Quan released his first mixtape, I Go In on Every Song, a promise on which it very nearly delivers. Early the following year, he earned his national breakthrough on the back of “Type of Way,” which made him sound a little mean and a little sensitive, and also like he nearly drowned in a vat of charisma as a small child. (That single was issued to iTunes by Def Jam, which seemed to indicate that Quan had signed to the label; in fact, he would remain locked in litigation with a smaller company, Think It’s a Game Entertainment, for many years.)
“Type of Way” came out as Future was pulling rap radio into his orbit, and it was seen by some early listeners as a variation on that Plutonic style. But in its verses, Quan skews much closer to traditional modes of rapping, using his melodic skills to augment the song rather than anchor it. It functions as an extended taunt—sometimes menacing, other times merely playful. Boasts that he can spot undercover cops with a single glance enjamb against lines like “I got a hideaway, and I go there sometimes / To give my mind a break”; memories of served subpoenas are delivered in delicate singsong. All of this knottiness and seeming contradiction is in fact corralled by Quan until it propels the song in a single direction with irrepressible momentum.
There were more titles, more hits: Still Goin In, the Gucci Mane collaboration Trust God Fuck 12, I Promise I Will Never Stop Going In. “Walk Thru,” a duet with the Compton rapper Problem (now Jason Martin), is a slick song about collecting inflated club appearance fees that nevertheless sounds like it was spawned in a nightmare. The hook he gifted to YG in 2013 helped get the regional star off the shelf at Def Jam and onto national radio for the first time. And in 2015, when he went triple platinum with his single “Flex (Ooh, Ooh, Ooh),” he did so by distilling his style more cleanly than ever before. That song is wobbly and joyous, making rote descriptions of money earned sound like tiny spiritual breakthroughs.
All the while, his early collaborator was on his own star trajectory. Both Thug and Quan were dogged by conservative reactions to their work. It would be a couple of years before “mumble rap” was in wide use as a pejorative, but they were, predictably, seen by some resistant listeners as uninteresting writers or inadequate vocalists. Both charges were and are rooted in ideological opposition to their styles rather than earnest evaluations of their music. But even for the initiated, Quan’s suggestion that whatever he and Thug were working on would cement them as better than the Clipse or Black Star, better than Webbie and Boosie or Dead Prez or whomever, seemed improbable.
What they delivered, in September 2014, was at once bigger and smaller than anyone could have expected, seismic but nearly invisible. The tour that Tha Tour, Pt. 1 was meant to promote never really materialized; some of the Cash Money albums teased during DJ drops would be held up in labyrinthine court cases for another half decade, if they were released at all. The terrible, sub–Microsoft Paint cover dubbed the group Rich Gang, a moniker that had already been used for Baby’s other post–Cash Money branding exercises. “Lifestyle,” the massive summer hit Thug and Quan had scored under the name, wasn’t even included. Tha Tour does not exist on streaming platforms and did not spawn any new hits. But it was as Quan promised: a perfect snapshot of two eccentrics searching manically for new veins to tap. The hardest duo since Outkast.
You could credibly argue that Tha Tour is the best rap record of the 2010s. It captures Thug, one of the decade’s true supernova talents, near or at his apex—yet it would be very reasonable to suggest that Quan gets the better of him. See Quan’s verse on the shimmering “Flava,” where he shouts, buoyant, about his son inheriting his features, then makes the act of allowing a girlfriend to count his money seem more tender than any other intimate moment. Or take the harrowing “Freestyle,” its title belying the depth of thought and passion that Quan brings to the song. “My baby mama just put me on child support,” he raps:
Fuck a warrant, I ain’t going to court Don’t care what them white folks say, I just wanna see my lil boy Go to school, be a man, and sign up for college, boy Don’t be a fool, be a man, what you think that knowledge for?
On Thursday, shortly after Quan’s passing was confirmed, Quavo, one of the two surviving members of Migos, posted an Instagram story. “Good Convo With My Bro,” he wrote over a black background, and tagged Offset, with whom he’d been locked in a very public feud since shortly before their group mate Takeoff was killed in November 2022. Ten years ago, it seemed this cohort of Atlanta rappers was going to rule the industry indefinitely; today, the deaths of artists including Quan, Takeoff, Trouble, Lil Keed, and Bankroll Fresh—as well as Young Thug’s ongoing RICO trial—hang like a dark cloud over one of music’s creative meccas.
After “Flex,” Quan’s career ceased to be supported as it could or should have been by record companies; whether because of the Think It’s a Game situation, bad taste, or a lack of marketing imagination, he never again got the push he deserved. (He also never worked with Thug again: In interviews about the topic, Quan was reflective and self-critical, though some of the particulars of their falling-out may now be the concern of the Georgia justice system.) His best solo album, 2017’s thoughtful, technically virtuosic Back to the Basics, was swallowed entirely by Kendrick Lamar’s DAMN, which was surprise released on the same day.
The 2019 film Uncut Gems is typical of its directors’ output. Josh and Benny Safdie are obsessed with verisimilitude—even their most outlandish scenes are populated with nonprofessional actors, their dialogue overlapping, the blocking evolving naturally, the immersion in each character’s world totally ethnographic. Gems takes place during the 2012 NBA playoffs, and the period details are managed with fastidiousness. The lone concession seems to come about halfway through, when LaKeith Stanfield’s character pulls his SUV up to a curb, playing “Type of Way” at a deafening volume. While that song wouldn’t come out until the year after the Celtics’ run, the filmmakers evidently felt that fracturing their reality was worth it for its punishing effect. This, in so many ways, sums up Quan’s career: unstuck in time ever so slightly, caught between eras, yet still, on the most fundamental level, undeniable.
Paul Thompson is the senior editor of the Los Angeles Review of Books. His work has appeared in Rolling Stone, New York magazine, and GQ.
Lately, there’s been a rising tide of anger from so-called Chicago pizza purists who object to the term “tavern-style pizza.” The objections have coincided with the increased national popularity of the thin-crust pizza which is cut into squares and triangles. Even Pizza Hut has a Bizarro version.
Through these civic shenanigans, a 74-year-old Rogers Park pizzeria is trying to adapt to the times. Candlelite, founded in 1950, has established itself as one of the city’s most beloved spots for thin-crust pies. Instantly recognizable along Western Avenue for its neon sign, it’s become a pillar of the Loyola University community and is Sister Jean-approved. They’ve been selling frozen pizzas via Gold Belly and briefly opened a stall inside the Time Out Chicago Market food hall.
After looking at a few spots, the esteemed pizzeria is ready to open a second location this month, treading on rival DePaul University’s turf in Lincoln Park. Candlelite is partnering with the iO Theater, 1501 N. Kingsbury Street, taking over the comedy club’s food and drink service. Candlelite owner Pat Fowler says the theater’s co-owner, Larry Weiner, is a loyal customer in Rogers Park and floated the idea.
“It’s like having two businesses in one building — two iconic Chicago businesses,” Fowler says.
The bar will seat about 80 and be friendly to sports fans with games shown on TVs. A separate dining room — which will feel more like the original Candlelite — will seat an additional 100. They’ll also serve on two patios with 50- and 100-seat capacities. They’ve already redone the kitchens, bringing in conveyor-style pizza ovens, similar to the ones they have on Western.
Pizzas will be available during shows with servers bringing them to tables. The tables are smaller than traditional dining room tables, so Fowler and staff had to find the appropriate pizza stands to hold full-size pies while allowing room for drinks.
“What’s cool for us, from that standpoint, is iO is a destination, right?” Fowler says. “You know, people want to go to a show, and they’re willing to come from far away or nearby. So we’re able to draw from that.”
Candlelite has changed hands several times over seven decades, and Fowler — a former pizza delivery man who started in 2008 — purchased the business in 2012.
The original restaurant’s full menu — with burgers, sandwiches, and options for kids — will be available, and Fowler says they’re working on their beverage selections, hoping to potentially work with Off Color Brewing whose taproom is across the street. They’ll have some fun cocktails as Fowler reminds us that Candlelite’s famous neon sign features a martini. Speaking of the sign, crews in October will install a replica of the original outside the new restaurant. They’ve turned the sign into a logo, using it for their line of frozen pizzas.
In Rogers Park, Candelite has become a community icon and part of the Loyola Rambler community. Fowler wants to enjoy a tight relationship with the Lincoln Park area, even if that means cavorting with Loyola’s rivals at DePaul.
“I’ll either need Sister Jean’s permission or I’ll have to ask for forgiveness,” Fowler says with a laugh. “But we love supporting local so DePaul will definitely be something we want to incorporate openly with Sister Jean’s permission.”
Candlelite Lincoln Park, 1501 N. Kingsbury, planned for a mid-September opening.
Editor’s note, September 5, 2024: This piece was originally published on July 30, 2019, when the fourth episode of Break Stuff: The Story of Woodstock ’99 first released. To mark the recent 25th anniversary of the festival, The Ringer is resurfacing Break Stuff on its own dedicated Spotify feed.
In 1999, a music festival in upstate New York became a social experiment. There were riots, looting, and numerous assaults, all set to a soundtrack of the era’s most aggressive rock bands. Incredibly, this was the third iteration of Woodstock, a festival originally known for peace, love, and hippie idealism. But Woodstock ’99 revealed some hard truths behind the myths of the 1960s and the danger that nostalgia can engender.
Break Stuff, an eight-part documentary podcast series now available on Spotify, investigates what went wrong at Woodstock ’99 and the legacy of the event as host Steven Hyden interviews promoters, attendees, journalists, and musicians. We’ve already explored whether Limp Bizkit were to blame for the chaos, how the story of the original Woodstock is mostly a myth, and how the host town prepared for the festival. In Episode 4, Hyden looks at how the first night of Woodstock ’99 set the stage for what was to come.
As attendees filed into Griffiss Air Force Base for the first day of the festival, large crowds swelled around the east and west stages. And when I say large, I mean humongous. It’s estimated that 220,000 people attended the festival, plus an additional 10,000 who worked there.
“It was kind of an out-of-body experience when you play a big festival like that, you know, where you can’t see the end of the crowd,” said Noodles, a guitarist for the Offspring.
In 1994, Noodles’s band released Smash,a blockbuster that sold 11 million copies, making it the best-selling record ever to be put out by an independent label. Five years later, the Offspring were still big MTV stars. But even a band as popular as the Offspring was humbled by the size of Woodstock ’99.
“We flew over it on our way in,” he says. “The area that this festival took over was really just a huge, huge area. We’ve been able to fly over other festivals since and it’s one of the biggest for sure. So it looked kind of cool, we were really excited.”
Once the band touched down and arrived backstage, however, the grandeur of Woodstock ‘99 also came crashing down.
“The venue really wasn’t great,” he says. “You know, it wasn’t a very hospitable. So it was kind of bleak in that regard.”
The Offspring were scheduled to play after the rapper DMX and before Korn. On stage, the members of the band stared into a vast sea of humanity that stretched as far as the eye could see. Playing Woodstock ’99 was a pretty heady experience for a band that came up in the underground punk scene.
“It is a little overwhelming,” Noodles says. “We’ve done it so much now that I guess I get more and more used to it, but still there’s an energy there that’s unlike anything else, and I guess that was kind of fun. It was, I think, a little too much, just a little bit too big.”
Most musicians will say the most disorienting aspect of performing at an event as massive as Woodstock ’99 is the disconnection from the audience. Even in an arena, an artist can still see the people in the first few rows. But at Woodstock ’99, the distance between performer and fan was nearly insurmountable.
“You know, the audience was super far away, there were big cameras on tracks that were in between us and the crowd as well,” Noodles says. “So just kind of connecting with the audience was a little bit more difficult.”
But the band didn’t miss everything. There was one moment when Offspring singer Dexter Holland was able to discern some bad behavior in the audience. It occurred near the end of the band’s set, when Holland decided to comment on it.
“But you know what, I was noticing something, I gotta call your attention to it for just a second,” Holland said on stage. “I’ve been noticing that there’s a lot of girls coming over the top here crowdsurfing. And they’re getting really groped, you know what I mean. Now I think, just because a girl wants to go crowdsurfing or whatever, that doesn’t give a guy the right to molest ’em, know what I’m sayin’?”
Then, Holland said that the audience members should take matters into their own hands.
“If you’re a guy and you see a girl go overhead, give her a break,” he said. “If you’re a girl and you see a guy go overhead, I want you to grab his fucking balls!”
But again, in the moment, the bands were in a totally different world from the audience. And that surely affects the perspective of artists like Jonathan Davis, the lead singer of Korn. When he talks about Woodstock ’99, he doesn’t think about sexual assaults.
It was the biggest fucking group of people I ever saw in a festival setting like that in America, and all I know is our show was amazing,” Davis says.
Woodstock ’99 was the first concert that Korn had played in months. The band had been holed up in Los Angeles working on a new album. After so much hard work, playing a big concert in front of hundreds of thousands of people was a much-needed release.
“It was us, Limp Bizkit, Ice Cube, all these people,” he says. “We all chartered a big 737, and we all flew from L.A. to the site, and it was just amazing. We had a huge party on that plane, we were all just listening to music and having fun. We were playing craps and it was just amazing—an amazing experience.”
When you watch Korn’s performance on YouTube, you can see both what went right and what went wrong. On one hand, the band played incredibly—any signs of rust from not touring were obliterated by the nuclear-level energy coming off the crowd. On the other hand, you can see a female crowd surfer fighting off dozens of men attempting to grope her.
The separation between Korn and the audience is obvious. I wonder whether it was also apparent in the moment—I wasn’t there, but I suspect that the audience felt like it was in its own world. That feeling helps to embolden bad behavior. In the end, nobody seems to take responsibility for when things go sideways.
As for Jonathan Davis, it’s obvious that his adrenaline was jacked through the roof. He will never forget what it felt like to perform that night.
“I mean, it’s like no drug on earth,” Davis says. “For me, at least for Korn, when we play, I have a real intense connection with the crowd. I’ve never been a frontman that talks a lot but I think by the way that I perform and how emotions come across, that I touch something that makes people want to do that thing.”
He still remembers how the crowd reacted to the last song of the night.
“When we were doing ‘My Gift to You,’ and I had a lighter and I got everybody to put their lighters up in the air or when they were you know all jumping or just pumping their fist,” Davis says. “Those moments were really huge moments to have that many people doing it.”
Jonathan Davis of Korn during Woodstock ’99WireImage
For Davis, the only negativity associated with Woodstock ’99 happened backstage.
It was a feud with a band playing that night on the west stage, commonly regarded as festival’s B-list showcase.
“Insane Clown Posse wanted to fight us or some stupid bullshit that I don’t understand,” Davis says. “But Cube’s people put them in their place and that was it. That was the only drama.”
To this day, Davis is confused as to why Insane Clown Posse had a beef with Korn.
“I don’t even fucking know why they don’t like us,” he says. “I heard that they talked some other shit about us before too. I think they like to start shit just to get press or start a beef and get things going. I don’t know––I was a huge fan of ICP and that whole Juggalo thing. I think it’s cool.”
Here’s something you should know about me: I love band rivalries. I even wrote a book about it. And yet, in all of my research about Woodstock ’99, I hadn’t come across any information about a fight between Korn and Insane Clown Posse. I didn’t know about it until Jonathan Davis brought it up, unprompted.
Naturally, I now wanted to insert myself into some Korn vs. ICP drama. So I reached out to Violent J, who makes up Insane Clown Posse with fellow rapper Shaggy 2 Dope. And I asked him, “Hey, Violent J, why were you so mad at Korn back in 1999?”
According to Violent J, ICP didn’t have beef with Korn at all. In fact, the opposite was true. ICP worshipped Korn.
“What happened was, we kind of diss them in the lyric,” he says. “You know what I mean.”
In case you don’t know what he means: The diss lyric occurs in the song “Everybody Rize,” which mocks Jonathan Davis for a song he wrote about being bullied as a kid.
“It was uncalled for and it was stupid,” he says. “When we dissed them, it was an old lyric. So when we saw them we apologized for that and they had no idea what we were talking about.”
In my experience, Violent J isn’t really an accurate moniker. He was more like Gregarious J. I don’t think I talked to anyone who was happier to talk about Woodstock ’99. He was like a little kid talking about meeting Santa Claus for the first time.
“They drove us to the other stage,” Violent J says. “We hadn’t looked out, and we didn’t see the crowd or anything. And we came out and boom! It was just packed, and we were so happy. We couldn’t believe it. We were so excited, because it wasn’t like the other festivals we’d done. There was a lot of people there that would want to see us, you know, and that felt so good. It felt so cool to be a part of something.”
Insane Clown Posse formed in Detroit in 1989. From the beginning, they were outcasts—too rap for the rock crowd, and too rock for the rap crowd. Both sides seemed to agree that ICP were ridiculous. But Woodstock ’99 signified a rare moment of acceptance. Violent J finally felt like a true rock star.
“We always call ourselves the most hated band in the world,” he says. “And we’ve always played up the role that we like being the outcasts, you know? But in reality there’s always been an urge to want to be accepted to something. I mean, we want to be considered cool enough to be there.Andthat was like the ultimate reward. That that was something that really came through for us and felt that way.”
The band decided to show their appreciation by giving back to the audience at the concert.
“Yo, I know for Woodstock, tickets were a little expensive,” he said from on stage. “And me and Shaggy, we got paid a lot of money to be here. So we decided to give you all your money back.”
Then the band kicked a basket of red and yellow dodgeballs into the audience—each one with a $100 bill taped to it. And once those balls were gone, ICP kicked balls with $500 attached to them.
“We wanted to try to come up with some extra flavor for Woodstock,” he says now. “They were all jumping up trying to grab them, and that would just make the ball fly in the air again.”
Along with the free money, there was also some boorishness during ICP’s set. At one point, Violent J and Shaggy 2 Dope invited women to shed their tops onstage. Then they doused the women with Faygo soda.
When you watch the video, it all seems playful. The women appear to be doing this of their own volition, and having a good time. But in the harsh light of 2019, the whole thing seems pretty gross. It’s the sort of mindless decadence you associate with the fall of great empires.
The darkest impulses of Woodstock ’99 were already manifesting on Friday—two full days before tensions finally boiled over in the form of riots and looting.
Atelier, the Michelin-starred restaurant in Lincoln Square, has been closed since August 24 as staff contends with a broken air conditioner and wall and ceiling damage caused by heavy rain late last month. As founder Tim Lacey and chef Christian Hunter wait for a new unit to arrive, the small business needs a way to continue in the short term. That’s why they’re offering a special five-course takeout menu from Friday, September 6 through Sunday, September 8.
Lacey admits that his staff is having flashbacks to the start of the pandemic when fine dining restaurants across the country did the unthinkable in offering carryout meals as government officials kept dining rooms closed to curb the spread of COVID. Many fine chefs never thought they would be in the position of creating takeout meals. Chicago’s restaurants leaned into comfort foods which travel well in bags and to-go containers. Even Ever chef Curtis Duffy began selling burgers in December 2020. Atelier, which replaced another Michelin-starred restaurant, Elizabeth, had been blazing its own path and was named a 2024 James Beard Award semifinalist for Best New Restaurant.
The takeout menu — no substitutions — consists of a pita and mezze course (baba ghanoush, pickled summer squash, fermented garlic scape tapenade, rhubarb chutney); grilled Korean pork sausage Bibb lettuce wraps (sea beans, kohlrabi/kimchi slaw); root vegetable fasolada (diced parsnips, celery root, sunchokes, rutabagas); lasagna in lamb neck ragu with ricotta and sourdough garlic knots. and a nectarine and pear galette with caramelized whey, allspice-cinnamon gelee, and spruce chantilly cream.
Hunter and Lacey are hopeful the air conditioning can be fixed by Tuesday, September 10, and that they’ll be back open on Wednesday, September 11. Check their Instagram for updates.
Atelier’s five-course takeout menu is available Friday, September 6 through Sunday, September 8 with pickup between 5:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Order via Tock.
Surprise a date with a trip to Nine Bar, a speakeasy hidden behind Chinatown takeout spot Moon Palace Express. The glowing pink, green, and blue hues in the Blade Runner-inspired space provide a moody venue to share dumplings, cold sesame noodles and Asian-inspired cocktails like the Neo Toyko blended with Suntory Toki, ginger, and lemongrass or the Paradise Lost, a rum-based drink incorporating mango cordial, ube and Thai coconut milk.
Four and half months after suddenly closing stores in Chicago, Texas, and Washington, D.C., Foxtrot will attempt a comeback by opening its first store this week. Outfox Hospitality, the company that ran those 33 stores filed for bankruptcy in May, leaving a wake of angry vendors, workers scrambling to find new jobs, and accusations of breaking federal labor law. Since then, a new entity has been formed by the chain’s co-founder who says he’ll return the company to its roots by showcasing cool snacks made by local artisans and avoid the pitfalls that lead to the chain’s failure.
The first store is scheduled to open on Thursday, September 5 at 23 W. Maple Street in Gold Coast, according to a news release. An Old Town location at the corner of North Avenue and Wells Street will follow, though an opening date hasn’t been announced. A few vendors Eater spoke with last week said one of the reasons they joined the comeback effort is Foxtrot isn’t rushing to reopen all the stores they closed. Mike LaVitola, who founded Foxtrot in 2013, and is now chairman of the newly named Foxtrot Cafe & Market. He was part of an effort that bought Foxtrot’s assets in an auction for $2.5 million. LaVitola told Eater he wanted to focus on “getting it right” at individual locations rather than opening multiple stores at once. The initial plan announced was to open about 15 stores scattered in Chicago and Texas, with the majority in Chicago. There are two new details from the company’s latest release: They’re not specifying the number of stores anymore (last week, LaVitola said they were negotiating leases in unannounced locations including Wicker Park and Willis Tower.) The other details might be bitter for those in Austin, Texas, as it appears Foxtrot is focusing on reopening in Dallas, at least in the interim. Austin was home to four locations.
The closures caused a nationwide commotion in April, with a combination of anger (a class-action lawsuit alleging Outfox violated federal law by failing to provide proper notice for a mass layoff is pending; October 1 is the next court date), sadness (customers who lived nearby grew attached, one famously bemoaned moving to their residence to be near a Foxtrot), and resentment (some South Siders who had never been to a Foxtrot wondered why folks were being so dramatic). Foxtrot had found a niche in North Side Chicago neighborhoods as a corner store with trendy snacks, a coffee bar, and a cafe space to get work done or to sip wine or beer. It was a kind of third place for former office workers who had transitioned into a hybrid work-from-home schedule during the pandemic. Foxtrot saw an opportunity to scale, and after merging with local Chicago grocer Dom’s Kitchen & Market — which also had its own ambitious expansion plans — in 2022, Foxtrot announced intentions to open as many as 100 locations by 2024. By that point, LaVitola was no longer chief executive officer. He says he was pushed out to an advisory role. Foxtrot began opening in neighborhoods with pricey real estate like Fulton Market and at Wrigley Field. They were spending in the hope of getting noticed.
That detail is important as vendors have been gunshy about joining Foxtrot 2.0 and worried the chain would repeat mistakes. LaVitola told them he wasn’t involved in a leadership role at Outfox. Some have accepted LaVitola’s reassurances, saying they need Foxtrot’s customer base. Others have picked other retail routes.
But, as LaVitola points out, Foxtrot is about more than gourmet gummies or hot dog-flavored potato chips. The coffee bar was “the biggest revenue driver” — it was so much that nearby coffee shops were losing business to Foxtrot. The previous interaction of Foxtrot made a big deal of partnering with Philadelphia’s La Colombe. That relationship will continue, but the new Foxtrot will also stock items from local roasters Metric and Kyoto Black. They’re also adding new food items to complement its morning breakfast tacos, which will remain. Look for new panini sandwiches, salads, lunch bowls, and cookies.
Expect to see growing pains. As of last week, LaVitola wasn’t sure if customers would need to create new profiles on the store’s app, which was vital to the chain’s business. Before it was a brick-and-mortar, Foxtrot used its app for liquor and beer delivery. Still, LaVitola says he’s committed to “delivering an awesome experience in the stores.” One way is making sure customers better connect with the stories behind the people who make their products. He feels the previous iteration of Foxtrot relied too much on its website to do that.
“There’s just going to be a lot more of that content — for lack of a better word — and storytelling happening in the store versus online,” LaVitola says. “Online is still really important, and it’s still there, but I think that gap is going to be bridged.”
Shortly after the Chicago Bears drafted Caleb Williams with the No. 1 pick in the 2024 NFL Draft, the team’s culinary staff began brainstorming how to incorporate the star college quarterback’s “Bear Claw” hand gesture.
Levy Executive Chef Ryan Craig invented the Campfire Milkshake for Sox fans.
These self-serve kiosks use AI and are new for 2024.
These grab-and-go items can be purchased in the self-serve kiosk.
Levy Executive Chef Ryan Craig who already created a viral stadium hit earlier this year with the Chicago White Sox, perhaps providing the South Siders with the highlight of their woeful season with his invention, the Campfire Milkshake, and his team recognized that Williams had provided them with an opportunity. During a media food preview on Wednesday, August 28 at Solider Field, the Levy team unfurled a trio of Bear Claw items. There was a giant pretzel with beer cheese dip and cinnamon-cream cheese icing on the claw (available at the United Club South Market and in the suites); a collaboration with Do-Rite Donuts with vanilla ice cream, caramel sauce, toffee piece, orange and blue M&Ms, and whipped cream (United Club Bistro, Miller Lite Midway; and suite ticketholders can order a giant cookie with orange and blue icing from Sugar Bliss, a bakery located inside the Palmer House Hilton.
Craig and his staff are trying to match the fan enthusiasm with high expectations as Williams has the potential to give the Bears the perennial All-Pro quarterback the franchise has lacked. Sports food is more fun when the team is actually competitive. Not that Chicago fans know about that.
This doughnut-cookie hybrid is also shaped like a bear claw.
It’s also an opportunity for Levy, which earlier in the year outbid incumbent Delaware North to take over food operations at Soldier Field. The Chicago company already provides services to Guaranteed Rate Field, Wrigley Field, and the United Center. Levy took over this summer right after the Rolling Stone concert on June 30, and there’s been a transition period as Levy rebrands all of Soldier Field’s concession stands. The process will continue over the next 10 days. The goal was to complete the transformation by the September 8 home opener versus the Tenessee Titans. New names include “Burnham Bar,” “606 Sausage Co.,” and “Shoreline BBQ.” Connie’s Pizza remains at the stadium, but the name’s been changed on the facade to Pizza Soldato (Sections 119, 132, 152, 231, 322, 351, 435, and 443).
Shoreline (Section 134) is where fans will find a hot dog inspired by rookie wide received Rome Odunze, the No. 9 pick in this year’s draft. The Odunze Dog is a jalapeño-cheddar dog surrounded by Italian beef and topped with spicy giardiniera, cheddar crumbles, and secret sauce. It’s a salty take on an Italian beef combo.
The smash burgers are created by Boka chef Chris Pandel.
Levy’s presence provides an opportunity for one of Chicago’s most decorated restaurant groups. For the first time, food from James Beard Award-winning Boka Restaurant Group will be available inside a stadium. (Stephanie Izard’s taco stand inside the United Center is an independent venture unaffiliated with Boka, her regular restaurant partner). They’ll serve hand-breaded chicken fingers from GG’s Chicken Shop, with all the fancy dipping sauces. GG’s (Sections 125 and 150) is a fast-causal spot with food from Boka Executive Chef Lee Wolen, a noted Cleveland Browns fan. Next door, at the new Burger Bar (Section 126), they’ll also serve smash burgers created by Boka Group chef Chris Pandel (Swift & Sons, Cira). In October 2022, Levy acquired a minority stake in Boka which opened the door to collaborations. They’ve already collaborated on food at the Art Institute of Chicago. Will Boka also feed Blackhawk and Bulls fans at the United Center and Chicago’s North and South side baseball fans? The company’s lips are sealed… for now.
Rookie wideout Rome Odunze has his own dog, a tribute to Chicago’s Italian beef combo.
The Honey Bear is named for the team’s old cheerleading squad.
For years, AI and analytics have promised to revolutionize the way professional sports teams are assembled. Fans are now seeing the impact on the stadium food experience. New for 2024 is more than 60 self-checkout kiosks with AI-powered cameras that recognize cans of beer, slices of pizza, boxes of popcorn, and other concession items. Made by a company called Mashgin, these kiosks are installed for faster checkout with a claim that they can increase sales.
While Craig didn’t create a sequel to the Campfire Shake for the Bears — he says he needed to let the White Sox have that and that winter might be too cold for ice cream — there are two notable new beverages. Former Bears special teams star Patrick Mannelly has collaborated with suburban Mundelein’s Tighthead Brewery on a beer, Longsnapper IPA. There’s also a new cocktail with a nod to forgotten history. The Bears are one of a handful of teams without cheerleaders, disbanding the squad, called the Honey Bears, after the 1985 season. For 2024, the team has unveiled a drink with lemonade, simple syrup, and honey called Honey Bear. Add vodka for an upgrade. Levy’s senior director of operations for Soldier Field, Kara Jacobs, suggested the name as she was reminded of when the Honey Bears made visit when she was part of a pom pom team growing up in suburban Libertyville
Pizza Soldato is just Connie’s Pizza in disguise.
Levy has been busy rebranding all of Soldier FIeld’s signage.
Low lighting, dramatic chandeliers, and jeweled tones bring plenty of charm to dining inside at Adalina, though the Gold Coast restaurant’s tree-lined patio is also a popular spot to sip spritzes when the weather permits. Any seat is good for twirling spaghetti alla vongole with pickled chili or biting into perfectly plump corn agnolotti, After dinner, head to the downstairs Rose Lounge for a nightcap. Make a reservation through OpenTable.
In the urban-suburban trajectory, restaurants typically start in the city before making their way to smaller towns around it. Opening in early September, Petit Pomeroy reverse engineers that story as the smaller sibling to Winnetka’s Pomeroy, which opened in September 2021 on the North Shore.
“Pomeroy is the highest-grossing restaurant we have in Ballyhoo,” says Ryan O’Donnell, Ballyhoo founder and CEO. “The suburbs have been very good to us.”
Above Ballyhoo’s Gemini Grill, which opened earlier this year at upscale residences One Chicago in River North, Petit Pomeroy is one of four restaurants Ballyhoo Hospitality (Coda di Volpe, Old Pueblo Cantina, DeNucci’s, and Gemini among others) will be opening in the next seven months. The other three will be in suburban Highland Park and Glenview.
“When we were doing Gemini Grill, we retrofitted the second floor to be a restaurant, but we didn’t know what exactly,” O’Donnell says. “We wanted to see what was happening in the local dining scene and the landscape and figure out what would be best suited there.”
Classic French fare like roasted chicken are on the menu.Ballyhoo Hospitality
“Sometimes people can be intimidated by French food as they think it’s fine dining or heavy with lots of sauces,” O’Donnell says. “But bistro food is comfort food at its heart and core.”
While Pomeroy leans more into brasserie territory, Petit Pomeroy will be more of a classic French bistro. Petit Pomeroy is smaller in size (90 seats versus 280) and O’Donnell says the second-floor kitchen is about a quarter the size of Winnetka’s.
“We couldn’t do the big, expansive menu,” says O’Donnell. “We had to pare it down, which allowed us to focus on the greatest hits. It’s not a complete rinse and repeat, but we’re not going to change a lot of the stuff we do really well.”
The warm tomato tart with dried heirloom tomatoes, fromage blanc, and herbes de Provence inside a puff pastry shell made the move. “It might not be the most classic French thing in the world, but it’s been a big mover in Winnetka,” says O’Donnell.
Winnetka’s popular plats du jour are making the journey too, including top-seller short rib Bourguignon with pommes purée. “Last night we sold 48 in Winnetka,” says O’Donnell. Look for other French bistro classics, such as bouillabaisse and escargots.
Profiteroles Glacées with vanilla bean gelato and warm chocolate.Ballyhoo Hospitality
Beverages will follow a similar Gallic route with an emphasis on French wines, including sparking and Champagne, with cocktails such as the French 75, Le Spritz, and Le Pamplemousse.
For the interior, red leather banquettes and booths are paired with bistro-style chairs. Touches include brass railings, vintage posters, and wood paneling. A bar will seat eight. From its second-floor perch, views of Holy Name Cathedral across the street will be front and center.
“The drama of the room’s setting will surprise people,” says O’Donnell. “People don’t know what’s up on that second floor so I think that will be the big wow factor.”
Petit Pomeroy, 748 N. State Street, scheduled for a mid-September opening.
When Foxtrot relaunches in September and reopens its Gold Coast store, the chain of shoppy shops will stock items from many local brands familiar to fans.
Foxtrot co-founder Mike LaVitola is back leading the newly formed company, separate from Outfox Hospitality, the entity that filed for bankruptcy in May. . It’s supported by New York-based private holding company Further Point Enterprises. The new Foxtrot has gathered 45 former vendors to be part of the relaunch. The list is packed with Chicago brands like Metric Coffee, Marz Community Brewing, All Together Now, Big Fat Cookie, Do-Rite Donuts, Tempesta Market, and Freeman House Chai.
But not all brands will return. Some refused, frustrated by the sudden closures, saying they’re focusing on other retail opportunities. Others, for example, Tortello, the Wicker Park pasta restaurant, weren’t asked to return. Foxtrot does have an agreement with Gemma Foods, a West Town pasta maker. While LaVitola praised the product, he says the new version of Foxtrot will be more curated.
“While it sounds good that you have all this choice, you actually kind of lose your point of view,” LaVitola says. “And it just becomes, you know, it becomes too hard to manage.”
LaVitola adds he’s seen a lot of brands he’s wanted to add over the last year or two: “Now I get the chance to do that, which is just exciting.”
While the initial plan was to open eight Foxtrots in Chicago, with Old Town following Gold Coast, more locations are on their way including “a couple in Texas.” In June, LaVitola floated the comeback would include around 15 stores total. There are no plans to reopen in D.C. LaVitola, who founded Foxtrot in 2013, teased the unannounced reopenings of locations on Wicker Park’s Six Corners and inside the Willis Tower: “We’re looking to open new stores once we feel like we’ve got our operations, just totally, totally nailed down in the stores that we have,” LaVitola says. He adds there will also be changes to the coffee and hot food options with details upcoming.
Many brands have benefited from selling items at Foxtrot, which gives them a chance to grow their customer base and draw attention from bigger national retailers. However, much of that goodwill evaporated on April 23 when the chain, the 33 locations scattered in Chicago, Texas, and Washington, D.C., closed without warning. For the past four months, vendors have been licking their wounds trying to figure out how to make up for lost sales and inventory. After LaVitola regained control of Foxtrot, part of a group that made a $2.2 million winning auction bid in May, Foxtrot 2.0 began making its pitches to vendors, attempting to convince them they had learned from past mistakes, that the new venture would return Foxtrot to its roots in aiding small businesses by showcasing their trendy snacks to diners who frequent chic restaurants with disposable income to spend on items made by well-known chefs.
LaVitola says it’s been a whirlwind few months as he “gets the band back together” in talking with the old company’s former workers, landlords, and vendors, using them to knit the new entity. His role changed at the original Foxtrot in April 2023 after the company named Liz Williams as chief executive officer. Lavitola says he was no longer in control of the company, even though listed as a non-executive chairman: “Probably advisor is the best title,” he says.
In November 2023, Foxtrot would later morph into Outfox Hospitality after merging with Dom’s Kitchen & Market, a two-location grocery chain that also had designs on expansion.
Vendors who spoke with Eater shared trust issues and worried that Foxtrot needed accountability for putting hundreds of workers out of jobs without warning. Many weren’t paid for their food delivered, which remained at stores, visible through windows. Some received court notices as Foxtrot’s original company filed for Chapter 7 bankruptcy. They were free to fill out paperwork to pursue payments, but vendors had little hope that they would recover any money.
LaVitola and company were involved in several email exchanges and meetings to convince vendors to return. Justin Doggett of cold brew coffee maker Kyoto Black is part of the relaunch and was assured that the mistakes of the old Foxtrot wouldn’t be repeated as LaVitola wasn’t involved in that version of the company. He saw it as a positive when he saw former Foxtrot workers were back with the company. After Foxtrot closed, Kyoto Black was left scrambling looking for ways to sell its coffee to make up for lost sales.
Doggett acknowledges there’s a narrative of LaVitola capitalizing on a devalued company, snatching it up, and restarting it without accountability. He says that’s not true.
“The guy who founded it was not involved when this happened,” Doggett says. “…He saw an opportunity to kind of take this company that he started and buy it back and kind of like, uh, revitalize the image and the mission of it.”
Foxtrot has begun offering cash on delivery to more vendors. That’s not a change for wine and beer makers but for other vendors — especially ones who make their items fresh, items that aren’t shelf stable — payment up front provides peace of mind. LaVitola mentions improving vendor communication about the number and frequency of deliveries and marketing support. Vendors also mentioned they don’t have long-term agreements in place. They can leave if the situation goes sideways.
One vendor that wasn’t listed on the Foxtrot’s news release was Pretty Cool Ice Cream, the dessert company founded by former Publican pastry chef Dana Salls Cree. LaVitola says the provided list was preliminary. Customers will still be able to buy Pretty Cool bars at Foxtrot. Salls Cree confirms Foxtrot has ordered an assortment of her ice cream shop’s classic flavors. Pretty Cool wants to take advantage of Foxtrot customers who use the chain to connect with local products, Salls Cree says. However, there won’t be any special flavor collaborations in the near future. As Foxtrot remained in limbo, Salls Cree began partnering with other parties; Foxtrot lost its place on the collaboration schedule. Given the abrupt shutdown of the original venture and given how the company left so many high and dry, Salls Cree took her time weighing the pros and cons of returning to Foxtrot.
“It’s such a sliver of our business,” she says. “But the question that keeps coming in — ’why is this taking up so much emotional bandwidth?’”
James Beard Award winner Mindy Segal says she hasn’t been doing business with Foxtrot since Mindy’s Bakery opened in Bucktown. Foxtrot has sold Mindy’s branded hot chocolate mixes and other items. Segal says they have plenty of other business but would consider working with Foxtrot in the future.
Meanwhile, Marz Community Brewing will once again sell beer and other beverages at Foxtrot. As the craft beer market has imploded, it’s important for Marz to be available in as many stores as possible, says Ed Marszewski. He’s hopeful the new ownership can clean up the “garbage fire” left by the previous regime.
“They are going back to doing right to small guys, indies, etc. a platform,” Marszewski says. “We need places like this. Pre-merger, they really helped small manufacturers get traction. I think they want to do right again. Plus, they didn’t screw us over — our invoices were always paid.”
Two years ago, Westeros and Middle-earth went head-to-head in the streaming wars. After Amazon’s Prime Video set its release date for The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power—by all accounts the most expensive series ever made—HBO elected to have House of the Dragon, its first Game of Thrones spinoff, premiere two weeks prior to it. HBO’s decision to intentionally overlap with another big-budget fantasy show was, frankly, the sort of political maneuvering that would make Tyrion Lannister proud. As HBO’s CEO, Casey Bloys, cheekily told The Hollywood Reporter: “It’s nice we ended up being a couple weeks ahead of time.” (When you play the Game of Content, you win or you die.) From HBO’s side of things, the gambit worked: House of the Dragon had the biggest premiere in the network’s history, assuaging any concerns that Thrones’ lackluster ending would turn away fans. Prime Video, meanwhile, had to lick its wounds: Rings of Power reportedly had a 37 percent completion rate domestically, meaning that just over one-third of viewers ended up finishing the first season. Not terrible, but not what you want from the world’s priciest show, either.
By any measure, between these two series, House of the Dragon won the battle of the first seasons: It was more popular with audiences, earned more critical acclaim, and collected more Emmy nominations. But crafting a cultural juggernaut is a marathon, not a sprint, and House of the Dragon didn’t do itself any favors in Season 2. It’s not that the second season was without memorable moments—there was Rhaenys’s fateful death, Targaryen bastards being roasted alive by the dragon Vermithor, mud wrestling—but for a show built around the promise of a Targaryen civil war, it sure has … skimped in the war department. The finale merely shuffled pieces across the board and felt like a glorified teaser trailer for Season 3, which rubbed viewers the wrong way, especially since it will likely take another two years to air new episodes. That’s a long time to keep audiences waiting; expecting them to return in droves could prove to be a fatal miscalculation.
Could HBO’s loss be Prime Video’s gain? This time around, Rings of Power premieres without any direct competition. (No shade to HBO’s Industry, which is awesome, but Succession Presents: Euphoria is not the kind of show that threatens to take attention away from Middle-earth.) If Rings of Power is ever going to live up to its massive price tag, then the summer of 2024 might be its best shot to steal some of House of the Dragon’s thunder. Of course, that’s easier said than done, especially for a series that has yet to deliver on sky-high expectations.
A quick refresher: Rings of Power’s first season is set in the Second Age of Middle-earth, a period between the events of The Silmarillion and the Lord of the Rings trilogy. We follow the warrior elf Galadriel (Morfydd Clark), who believes that Sauron is lurking in the shadows, waiting for the right moment to seize power. (Other subplots include the harfoots, the predecessors of our beloved hobbits, befriending a mysterious wizard who may well be Gandalf the Gray, and the Southlands falling under attack by orcs before it’s decimated and transformed into Mordor.) By the end of the season, Galadriel discovers that her human companion Halbrand (Charlie Vickers) has been Sauron all along, ingratiating himself to the elves in order to forge—wait for it—rings of power that would allow him to bend the myriad inhabitants of Middle-earth to his will.
Rings of Power was far from perfect out of the gate, but the mystery surrounding Sauron’s true identity was—for this writer, at least—more than enough to stick through the first season. (That, and the show’s outrageous production values offer a winning combination of gorgeous New Zealand landscapes and state-of-the-art visual effects.) But now that Sauron’s been unmasked, Rings of Power finds itself in a potentially precarious position. The Dark Lord is one of the most iconic villains in fantasy, but much of that intrigue lies in how little the audience knows about him. With the exception of The Fellowship of the Ring’s kick-ass prologue sequence, Sauron is mostly a supernatural presence, taking the form of a giant, disembodied eye in Mordor. Going all in on Sauron in Rings of Power could end up diluting the villain’s potency, like if Disney green-lit a hypothetical Star Wars origin story for Emperor Palpatine’s early days on Naboo.
For better or for worse, Rings of Power opts to lean into the Sauron of it all. The first 20 minutes of the Season 2 premiere give us an extensive backstory on the Dark Lord: how he tried to get the orcs to join his cause before the corrupted elf Adar (Sam Hazeldine) betrayed him, the arduous process of Sauron’s malevolent spirit taking on a new form (Sauron: Halbrand Edition), the decisions that led him to cross paths with Galadriel. This is a strange point of comparison—my brain is a curse—but everything about Sauron’s origins reminded me of Longlegs: The movie worked better when it coasted on sinister vibes, rather than attempting to explain everything about its eponymous serial killer. The same is true for Rings of Power: When Sauron is lurking in the shadows, your mind fills in the blanks; conversely, when the show feeds the audience too much information, he just seems like a weirdo obsessed with jewelry, like Middle-earth’s version of Howard Ratner.
For much of the second season, Sauron resides in the elven kingdom of Eregion, coaxing the famed smith Celebrimbor (Charles Edwards) into kicking off a chain of events that could lead to Middle-earth’s demise. (Prime Video has forbidden me from getting more specific, but anyone with a passing knowledge of The Fellowship of the Ring’s prologue can connect the dots.) The dynamic between Celebrimbor and Sauron—taking on a new identity as Annatar, the Lord of Gifts—is among the more interesting work of the season, underlining that the Dark Lord’s greatest strength is his fiendish powers of persuasion. (“The road to hell is paved with good intentions” is Season 2 in a nutshell.) At the same time, Sauron’s grand designs are too one-dimensional to warrant this much screen time. Instead, Rings of Power would’ve been better served pulling a Leftovers and letting the mystery be.
Unfortunately, spending too much time with Sauron is the least of the show’s issues. A persistent problem for Rings of Power—one that’s even more pronounced this season—is that much of the ensemble isn’t up to snuff. In Thrones’ heyday, the series could bounce around Westeros and audiences would be hooked by most (if not all) of its subplots, led by the likes of Daenerys Targaryen, Jon Snow, Cersei Lannister, and Arya Stark. Rings of Power simply doesn’t have a deep enough bench of intriguing characters to lean on: We get frequent check-ins with Isildur (Maxim Baldry) and the Stranger (Daniel Weyman), yet I could sum up their arcs for the entire season in a single sentence. (The Stranger also has possibly the dumbest origin story for a character’s name since Han Solo.)
What’s more, while Rings of Power puts a lot of money on the screen, the decision to move the production from New Zealand to the United Kingdom has proved to be ill-fated. Without the former’s natural landscapes, the world of Middle-earth feels more confined and narrow in scope. Whatever the reason for the switch—budgetary concerns, new locales—the gambit didn’t pay off. And with the show’s narrative taking its sweet time to progress—cocreators J.D. Payne and Patrick McKay envision a five-season road map—Rings of Power draws unwanted comparisons to House of the Dragon’s second season: It’s taking far too long to get going, and by the time the characters get somewhere interesting, viewers will have to wait years for the payoff. (Assuming audiences want to return to Middle-earth in the first place.)
Given all the bad-faith criticisms of Rings of Power, I take no pleasure in the show’s sophomore slump. With all the money Amazon’s poured into Rings of Power, you’d like to think there’s still time to right the ship and that news of a Season 3 renewal will be a matter of when, not if. But with viewership not hitting the levels desired from such an expensive series, particularly one earmarked to be the “next Game ofThrones,” one has to wonder whether even a financial juggernaut like Amazon would consider cutting its losses. (Plus, the company will soon have competition from Warner Bros. with a Lord of the Rings anime movie and a Gollum stand-alone film.) For now, Rings of Power is stuck in a predicament not unlike Middle-earth as Sauron amasses power, where even the best intentions might not be enough to prevent a doomed future.
At a time when some restaurants are downsizing their pastry departments or eliminating them and outsourcing their desserts, the folks at Obelix are leaning into their sweet side more than ever, creating opportunities for their pastry chefs in the process.
For Courtney Kenyon, executive pastry chef at Obelix and Le Bouchon, and Louise “Lou” Turner, Obélix head baker, along with Obélix pastry sous chef Ashleigh Lyons, the opportunity comes in the form of a new weekly to-go croissant program at the River North French restaurant.
Turner, who worked at Oriole and owned a bakery in Cincinnati’s Findlay Market, mentioned to Kenyon, a vet of numerous Michelin-starred restaurants (Oriole, North Pond, Miami’s Le Bouchon) that she wanted to offer croissants to-go as a way for her industry friends to be able to try her brunch-only pastries. A few weeks later, Oliver and Nicolas Poilevey, the brothers behind Obelix, Le Bouchon, and Taqueria Chingón, had the same idea.
“We’re just trying to get more of our pastries in more people’s hands,” says Oliver Poilevey. “I love pastries, and I love getting dessert. It’s important as it’s the last impression you get in a restaurant and shows you are really trying to make the experience special.”
The selections rotate as a new menu appears on Tock every Monday for weekend pickup. Pastries are available in three packs. A $25 traditional croissant three-pack features butter, pain au chocolat, and pistachio. A $36 specialty box consists of a rotating trio of sweet, savory, and filled croissants. This week’s specialty selection contains a black raspberry milkshake croissant, a peach cream cheese danish, and a potato gratin danish. Online ordering closes on Thursday morning with pick-up at Obelix on Saturday and Sunday.
Obelix has a new to-go pastry program.Obelix
The pastries come in three packs, but there will also be a few surprises.Obelix
For Turner, who Oliver Poilevey calls “a lamination wizard,” the to-go program has other benefits, especially for her specialty croissants. “I want to highlight seasonality, the farms we source from, and cross-utilize things that might go to waste,” she says. “The specialty box is also inspired by my childhood, various experiences in my life, and my own culture.”
To-go pastries are a way Kenyon has quickly made her mark as earlier in June she took over the pastry reins from Antonio Incadella, Obelix’s opening pastry chef. Incadella has moved over to Pilsen, where he’s head of pastry at Mariscos San Pedros — a partner in the restaurant alongside Oliver Poilevey and Taqueria Chingon’s Marcos Ascencio.
Turner arrives at Obelix at 3:30 a.m. on Thursdays to prep the croissants. Friday is dedicated to lamination, the time-consuming process of folding and rolling the butter into the dough, which gives the croissants their desired uber-thin layers. Baking takes place on Saturdays and Sundays. “It will just be increasing the numbers we are already doing,” says Turner of the restaurant’s signature brunch croissants.
“My job as a pastry chef is to provide tools and assist the people on my team so they can best drive, learn, and develop,” adds Kenyon.
Plans are already in the works to grow the to-go pastry program. “Once we feel comfortable, we will offer specialty croissants that highlight ingredients like truffles or do a pastry special like canelés,” says Kenyon, adding that holiday baked goods are an option too.
“I’m most excited about expanding more into the community of Chicago and have different parts of the city see what we are doing here,” Turner says. “Brunch is very busy, and our dinner service is wonderful but allowing people to take a little piece of us home with them is special.”
Obelix, 700 N. Sedgwick Street, weekend to-go pastries start Mondays via Tock.
The Democratic National Convention was obsessed with Chicago dogs last week with politicians and celebrities making social media posts and recording video segments from various street food stands. Over the weekend, Luke Skywalker himself, Mark Hamill posted a photo of himself in front pointing to the Wieners Circle’s famous sign while making a hand gesture, referring to the hot dog’s stand’s DNC special mocking former President Donald Trump. The sign read: “Now Serving Trump Footlongs It’s 3 Inches.”
Wieners Circle first offered the special back in 2016 as a response to Trump’s comments during a Republican debate. Hamill attended the DNC and was at a fan convention over the weekend in the suburbs. He’s been an outspoken critic of Trump. The post may have reminded fans of the Spaceballs, a parody of Star Wars in which galactic rivals Darth Helmet (Rick Moranis) and Lone Starr (Bill Pullman) debate the sizes of their “Schwartzes.”
Speaking of hot dogs, news has spread about how a new investor at Portillo’s wants to shake things up. On Thursday, August 15, Engaged Capital disclosed it held a 10 percent stake in the company with a mission to “improve operations, optimize restaurant performance, increase margins and grow brand awareness as Portillo’s expands nationally.” Crain’s described this as the agenda of an activist investor writing Engaged wants Portillo’s to open smaller locations; a signature trait of the chain was large spaces with historical artifacts. The goal is to cut costs as the hot dog giant aims to open “at least 920 restaurants around the country in about 20 years,” according to Crain’s.
Roti declares Chapter 11
Chicago-based fast-casual chain Roti has declared Chapter 11 bankruptcy and is seeking investors or new owners to rescue its 20 locations scattered across Chicago, Minnesota, and Washington, D.C. Ownership hopes to keep the restaurants open during the process, according to Restaurant Business. The assembly-line chain was vaguely Mediterranean and has attempted to reinvent itself with new branding and tweaks to the menu over the years. The chain was founded in 2007.