In hindsight, Tuesday morning’s news that Milk Bar would finally arrive in Chicago shouldn’t be a surprise. A release blasted the news nationwide, an announcement befitting of Tosi’s stature. Milk Bar will take over the corner cafe in the Hoxton Chicago lobby at 200 N. Green Street sometime this winter.
For years, superstar baker Christina Tosi has teased Chicagoans as her crew at Milk Bar searched for a space. Milk Bar held pop-ups featuring the confection formerly known as Crack Pie — renamed in 2019 to the more pleasant Milk Bar Pie. As the furor over expansion cooled during the pandemic with the restaurant industry battling for survival, Milk Bar quietly set up a ghost bakery in Chicago where locals could order baked goods for delivery.
In a competitive market, Milk Bar protected its brand. They sued the owners of a River North venue in 2019, JoJo’s Milk Bar arguing the name confused customers into thinking the two were associated. JoJo’s ultimately rebranded to JoJo’s Shake Bar to avoid trademark infringement.
Milk Bar’s official arrival comes in the form of a partnership with Boka Restaurant Group, which manages Hoxton’s food and beverage operations. Boka has two restaurants in the hotel, Chris Pandel’s Cira on the first floor and Stephanie Izard’s Cabra on the rooftop, with a basement bar, Lazy Bird.
Cookies, cakes, pies, and truffles are some of Milk Bar’s offerings.Milk Bar
Milk Bar’s soft-serve ice cream is also available.Milk Bar
The Milk Bar menu will include cookies in flavors like cornflake chocolate chip marshmallow, confetti, and blueberry and cream. Look for cake truffles, and whole cakes and pies also available in slices. Soft-serve ice cream, like the popular cereal milk, milkshakes, and Milk Bar breads are also planned.
Founded in 2008, the chain counts 12 locations in Boston, LA, Las Vegas, New York, and Washington, D.C. Tosi is from Cleveland, and Chicago marks Milk Bar’s first shop in the Midwest. They’ve opened in hotels before including at the Ace in New York.
Milk Bar will also pander to locals; the release teases a Chicago-style hot dog iteration of their stuffed bagel specialty, called a Bagel Bomb. There’s also an upcoming cookie collaboration with a mysterious Chicago institution.
Boka and Tosi make for a powerful duo, one capable of opening opportunities not available to most. Chicago has no shortage of bakeries. Good Ambler, the bakery cafe run by the owners of Thalia Hall, is a few doors north of the Hoxton. Another national favorite, Levain — a New York-based chain known for its chunky cookies — debuted in Chicago in 2022 around the corner on Randolph Restaurant Row. Meanwhile, the space that once housed another bakery, Sugargoat, the sweet emporium from Boka partner Izard, remains vacant. At the Hoxton, Milk Bar will take advantage of hotel guests, which might limit competition and the surrounding impact. Milk Bar will also team with third-party delivery services.
The expansion is reminiscent of another national brand, Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams — which has a nearby location on Randolph. Like Tosi, Jeni Britton Bauer is from Ohio (Columbus). Both Jeni’s and Milk Bar routinely draw long lines outside their stores. The two are also James Beard Award winners. Tosi has a pair of medallions, winning Rising Chef of The Year in 2012 and Oustanding Pastry Chef in 2015 while working for Momofuku in New York.
Milk Bar at the Hoxton, 200 N. Green Street, planned for a winter opening.
Eden, the farm-to-table restaurant off the Chicago River in Avondale, and Irving Park’s JT’s Genuine Sandwich Shop were the big winners over the weekend at Chicago Gourmet’s Hamburger Hop, the annual competition that crowns the best burgers in the city.
Eden chef Devon Quinn took home the competition’s Judges Award, given out by an eight-member panel including former Tribune critic Phil Vettel, Chicago dining editor Amy Cavanaugh, and Mott St chef Edward Kim.
JT’s Genuine Sandwich Shop earned the People’s Choice Award, determined by votes from the event’s sold-out crowd. Fourteen chefs competed in the event on Friday, September 27, part of Chicago Gourmet, the food festival created by the Illinois Restaurant Association.
The competitors were bound by ingredients from sponsors, like beef from Sysco and cheese from Kerrygold. But that didn’t mean they couldn’t get adventurous with add-ons.
Quinn and Eden chef de cuisine Brian Shim blended two cheeses — Dubliner and Reserve cheddar; and MontAmore, a Parmesan-inspired cheese from Wisconsin — into an American cheese. They also topped their burger with dill pickle-corn slaw (Quinn’s favorite pickle Claussen with grilled corn and onions bound together with black garlic aioli), flatwater arugula, and roasted tomatoes. It was served on a potato bun from sponsor Turano Baking.
“There are lots of flavors, but each one comes through really clearly in the burger,” says Quinn.
The People’s Choice winner from JT’s used Kerrygold aged cheddar, Dijonnaise, pickled Granny Smith apples, and hickory-smoked bacon. It was served on a Turano French brioche bun. Before his win, Chris Cunningham, a first-time competitor at Hamburger Hop, was just happy to be invited: “It’s a competition, but we’ve already won meeting all these wonderful new faces. We’re having an absolute blast today.”
Post-award, Cunningham was planning to take his team out to dinner. “They did an awesome job dealing with the wind and everything back there on the grill, so I can’t wait to celebrate and share this with them.”
High winds were a problem Friday night, with the National Weather Service warning Chicagoans to be ready for winds between 30 to 35 mph as a result of the remnants of Hurricane Helene.
Creativity is a word that could also describe what some of this year’s judges, a mix of food media folks, hospitality purveyors, chefs, and restaurant owners, were looking for in a winning burger. Last year, a Seattle chef swept both awards. This year’s event featured one out-of-towner, but a repeat of 2023 didn’t occur. The 14 participants even included a vegan restaurant, Soul Veg City.
“I look for burgers that there’s something special about them,” says Chicago’s Cavanaugh. “They have something unique, but they don’t stray too far afield from what a burger is supposed to be.”
There were 14 competitors in the 2024 Hamburger Hop.Chicago Gourmet/Garrett Baumer
Cavanaugh’s technique for judging 14 burgers? “I usually take two bites. I feel like you need a second bite to confirm.” To prepare for the meaty onslaught, she ate a big breakfast and four crackers for lunch. She had some thoughts about her eating habits post-judging too: “I might turn my back on cows entirely for the next few weeks.”
Former Tribune critic Vettel has judged four Hamburger Hops, but he previously covered all the Chicago Gourmets while at the newspaper. “There’s an urban legend going around that I’ve correctly predicted the winner every single year,” he says. “It’s not actually true, but I go with it.”
While more of a friendly competition than, say, Top Chef, winning Hamburger Hop does come with benefits beyond bragging rights. “I’ve seen some restaurants that have won either the People’s Choice or the Judge’s Choice burger in the past, and they still have those burgers on their menus,” says Vettel.
Mott St’s Kim planned on keeping an open mind when it came to judging: “I’m trying not to have any preconceived notions.” He prepared by not eating too much the days prior to the event. “I’ve come in with a hungry appetite and whichever burger tastes best is going to win for me.”
For her Seoul burger, chef Kaleena Bliss of Chicago Athletic Association Hotel and Cindy’s leaned into Korean flavors. Housemade ssamjang and a white kimchi aioli added some heat, while cucumber, cilantro, shredded carrot, and calamansi juice brought freshness and acidity to the hefty burger.
“Who doesn’t want to be part of Chicago Gourmet?” says Bliss, who moved to Chicago last year and competed on Top Chef: Wisconsin. “Everyone cool is doing it.”
Another first-timer was chef Jim Torres, who along with co-chef Kyle Schrage is behind Edgewater’s Beard & Belly. For their Hamburger Hop burger, they did a version of one they have at their gastropub that includes onion jam, roasted serrano, housemade awesome sauce, and cheddar cheese. “It’s a real big one just like me,” says Torres.
For her first-time entry, chef Tigist Reda delved into the spices and flavors she often uses at Demera Ethiopian Restaurant but ones that are rarely found in a burger. That included berbere-seasoned onion jam, cardamom, and mitmita (a heat-forward Ethiopian spice blend) along with Angus beef steakburger, Kerrygold Dubliner, and a Turano French brioche bun.
While Reda didn’t receive an award at Hamburger Hop, her burger was already a big winner. “My son was the first judge at home, and he gave it a thumbs up,” she says. “He’s a very tough critic.”
The series premiere of The Penguin ends with its titular villain stripped naked and strapped to a chair as he’s tortured by Sofia Falcone. By the conclusion of the second episode, Sofia makes him an offer to join forces and seize control of the Falcone crime family—the most powerful mob in Gotham City. Life in Gotham is anything but predictable; one minute someone’s pointing a gun down your throat, and the next they’re asking you to help betray their family and make a play to take over the city’s criminal underworld.
This dramatic turn of events perfectly encapsulates the complicated relationship of Oswald “Oz” Cobb (Colin Farrell) and Sofia Falcone (Cristin Milioti) as they try to set aside their differences to take down Sofia’s uncle Luca (Scott Cohen) and fill the power vacuum created by the death of the infamous Carmine Falcone. Two episodes in, HBO’s TheBatman spinoff seriesis quickly picking up momentum as Oz and Sofia’s tenuous partnership takes root and their respective quests to claim power in Gotham begin in earnest.
Although The Penguin is first and foremost a series about the villainous Oz Cobb, as Farrell reprises his scene-stealing character from Matt Reeves’s The Batman, Milioti’s Sofia Falcone is as much of a driving force in the spinoff as its central protagonist. Sofia has emerged as an unlikely contender to replace her father as Gotham’s crime lord, and the ways in which her character compares and contrasts with Oz have made their dynamic a compelling entry point into ThePenguin’s developing story.
The pilot episode welcomes the show’s audience by thrusting them right back into the world of The Batman: A montage of news broadcasts serves as a recap of the 2022 film, reporting the rise in crime in Gotham after the Riddler’s terrorist attacks devastated the city and unearthed its deep-seated corruption. And, crucially, the broadcasts also cover the murder of Carmine Falcone and the ongoing power struggle to replace him. After all the exposition ends, The Penguin repositions Oz as the primary protagonist of this world in place of Robert Pattinson’s Batman. He kills Alberto Falcone (Michael Zegen), Sofia’s brother and the new head of the Falcone family, in an impulsive act that sets the events of the series in motion. At first, it seems as if Oz will be able to get away with his crime unscathed, but Sofia—fresh out of Arkham Asylum—arrives to upend his hastily conceived schemes.
In this week’s installment, “Inside Man,” The Penguin begins to uncover Sofia’s past and delve into the life of the notorious woman better known as “the Hangman.” The episode opens with a flashback of Alberto visiting her at Arkham Asylum, which bleeds into a present-day therapy session as her memories mix with her grief over the loss of her brother. The series proceeds to offer glimpses into Sofia’s life, shedding light on how she is perceived by the world. A radio show discusses how Sofia was technically exonerated for the murders of seven women but labels her a “psycho” and a “serial killer.” Outside of Alberto’s funeral, crowds gather with signs condemning the Falcone family and Sofia’s release from Arkham. At Alberto’s memorial service, conversations hush and turn to whispers when Sofia enters a room, highlighting the unease surrounding her. Even Sofia’s family members either fear her or refuse to take her seriously. (By the end of the episode, Luca and his lieutenants give Sofia the Godfather closing door treatment, shutting her out of the family business as Luca tries to send her away to Italy.)
Sofia and Oz are alike in many ways. Both are underestimated and overlooked by higher-ranking members of the crime family who fail to recognize their outsize ambitions and the threat they pose. Their immediate families are everything to them, with Sofia hell-bent on avenging her brother’s death and Oz caring for his mother, Francis (Deirdre O’Connell), who has early-onset dementia. They both face judgment and condescension from those around them, whether it’s due to Sofia’s past or Oz’s appearance, and neither takes such disrespect lightly.
For all their similarities, Sofia and Oz also carry themselves differently. Sofia is discreet and tries to keep a low profile, while Oz drives around in an opulent, purple-and-gold Maserati. Oz is a sweet talker, often wriggling his way out of dire situations, while Sofia is blunt and speaks plainly to cut through all the nonsense. Sofia grew up rich, with a powerful father; Oz grew up poor and has had to earn everything himself. They serve as perfect foils for each other as they reach for the same goal of controlling the city’s criminal empire. And, at least for now, they recognize each other’s potential to further their own agendas—even if they don’t trust each other.
As Sofia and Oz’s unlikely alliance begins, the audience knows there is little chance their partnership will work; one will surely betray the other at some point, particularly if Sofia ever discovers that Oz was the one who killed Alberto. Watching how their dynamic develops over the next six chapters of the eight-episode miniseries will be fascinating, especially as Milioti and Farrell get more space to play off each other. Milioti is as terrifying as she is mesmerizing as the ice-cold Sofia, and Farrell—fully transformed by impressive makeup and prosthetics—continues to put his own spin on an iconic villain between his menacing yet comical performance and an endlessly entertaining accent choice. (There is still nothing better in The Batman than the Penguin giving Batman and Gordon a lesson in Spanish.)
For a spinoff of The Batman that’s set within weeks of the movie’s events, The Penguin has mentioned the Caped Crusader’s name only once so far. (It has, however, referenced the Riddler several times already.) Creator Lauren LeFranc has managed to seamlessly weave this series into the world that Reeves is creating in his Batman films, keeping with their dark and grounded tone while also adding more levity to build on what worked so well with Oz’s character in the movie. By setting Batman aside, The Penguin expands this version of Gotham, showing how crime is proliferating in the city in the aftermath of the Riddler’s attacks through a smaller-stakes story centered on Gotham’s warring mafia families and the two oddballs trying to claw their way to the top. With Farrell and Milioti delivering captivating performances that showcase the many dimensions of their respective villains, The Penguin has already been a pleasant surprise that’s generating even more excitement for where Reeves’s ongoing Batverse and the new era of DC Studios could go from here.
The Bronze ranks high among fictional TV teen hangouts. The adolescent club, depicted from 1997 to 2003 on Buffy The Vampire Slayer, was anti-establishment compared to the diner scene at Arnold’s from Happy Days or the Max’s wholesome vibe from Saved by The Bell. While the popular kids would frequent those places, the Bronze wasn’t for everyone. It was dark and moody. Bands no one had heard of would play there. This wasn’t a Peach Pit After Dark situation, the 90210 club was strictly for adults. The Bronze served coffee, juice, and soda. Not even Chicago’s famous all-ages bowling alley and punk club, the Fireside Bowl, never had NA options (though the Fireside had a Hammer, advantage: Fireside).
The Bronze is the foundation for the Buffy: The Slayer Experience, a pop-up that debuts today, Friday, September 27 at the Wicker Park location of Cheesie’s Pub & Grub, 1367 N. Milwaukee Avenue. The pop-up extends next door to Cheesie’s sibling, Whiskey Business, utilizing the bar’s rooftop deck where designers have tapped into the horror aspect with a faux graveyard and a DJ booth. Unlike TV’s Bronze, the pop-up is 21+.
The Vampire Bitters contains candy corn-infused malört.
Whiskey Business/Cheesie’s has become the de facto home for holiday pop-ups from Bucketlisters, a company with roots in the Saved by The Bell pop-up that premiered eight years ago near Wicker Park’s Six Corners intersection. That pop-up earned a reputation for fan service and Easter eggs. Expect the same level of love when it comes to the gang from Sunnydale High School.
The pop-up also leans into Doublemeat Palace, the fictional fast-food spot where Buffy Summers briefly worked. The menu features a burger, a sausage pizza puff with a side of ranch, chicken tenders, loaded tots, and fried pickles. Be assured that all the items have witty names tied to the show.
DMP is a fictional fast-food chain.
From tenders, the pizza puffs, the menu is simple.
Drinks include a welcome cocktail, called Spike’s Bloodbag. There are six themed drinks, but take a closer look at Vampire Bitters. Candy corn might be the most polarizing Halloween candy. But is it as polarizing as Jeppson’s Malört? The drink features candy corn-infused Jeppson’s Malort, lime juice, and hibiscus syrup, topped with prosecco. No, it’s not the first time candy corn has been mixed with Chicago’s bitter liquor. Let’s avoid any hurt feelings.
Wander through the space below. The pop-up runs through the end of October.
No one would blame fans of the Chicago White Sox for losing their appetites after enduring an abominable 2024 campaign, one that included a 21-game losing streak. Statistically, the 2024 Sox are one of the worst teams in the history of Major League Baseball, tying the modern-day record of 120 losses set in 1962 by the New York Mets. Currently, owner Jerry Reinsdorf’s team is riding a three-game winning streak and will wind down the season with three opportunities this weekend in Detroit to break the all-time loss record.
Recent hot streak aside, as each loss ate away at the team’s respectability, numbed fans donned paper bags over their heads this week at Guaranteed Rate Field, rooting against the home team and hoping to witness the historic record-breaking loss while chanting “sell the team.”
An unlikely ballpark symbol would emerge to represent this lost season. Introduced in the spring, the $15 Campfire Milkshake features burned marshmallows swimming in a sea of whipped cream. A puddle of chocolate drips down and covers the rim of the 16-ounce plastic souvenir cup which is filled with Prairie Farms Belgian Chocolate ice cream mixed with graham crackers. A piece of a chocolate bar marks the final touch. A sip may cause a fan’s A1C to surge as high as the Sox’s bullpen ERA — good luck finishing it. On the last home game of this sordid season, 205 shakes were available at the Vizzy View Bar. It’s a well-oiled machine with fans ordering their shakes at the bar where a cashier hands them a receipt which they use to pick up their shake at a station by the bar’s entrance, near Section 157. The chilled glasses are laid out with their chocolate rims as fans watch workers make the shakes. During the Thursday, September 26 home finale, a game where a loss would break the record, the shakes were sold out within 40 minutes. Announced attendance was 15,678 — Sox Park’s capacity is 40,615.
A fan at the September 10 game against Cleveland holds a Campfire Milkshake as the Sox picked up their 113th loss of the season.Photo by Matt Dirksen/Getty Images
Inside the Vizzy View Bar, an employee candidly tells fans the team made about $500,000 in sales on the shakes this season. Though the shakes are also available on the club level, that math might be off on this unverified figure. A half a million dollars would mean an average of 412 shakes were sold per game over 81 home games. Regardless, the shake was a success and management may bring the Campfire Shake back in 2025.
For a team with few stars, this rookie is perhaps the only thing worth remembering during a parade of failures that made national headlines last week when The Athletic published an embarrassing inside look at the team’s woes. That includes abysmal sequences like one from early September when two White Sox players collided during a game in Baltimore. The result allowed three runs to score with the Orioles’ TV announcer declaring “the White Sox have gone full White Sox.” Even horror writer Stephen King has acknowledged the White Sox season is a nightmare.
In game 159, as a yellow jacket swarms around the last vestiges of my Campfire Milkshake, the White Sox have put together their first seven-run inning of the 2024 season
Fans, former players, and media have relied on gallows humor to survive the season, turning to the shake as a distraction from talking about the actual baseball. MLB posted a photo of the shake in March on X, and since then it’s garnered 14,500 likes. In the spring, no one predicted the White Sox to be historically bad, but marketing had a feeling they weren’t contenders. By April, the team’s record plunged and the marketing team honed in on the milkshake as a way to take the attention away from the team’s performance. Brooks Boyer, the team’s chief revenue and marketing officer, was apparently “giddy” that the Athletic was writing about the shake. In May, SB Nation blog South Side Sox wrote that the team’s “hottest offseason acquisition might be the Campfire Milkshake.”
The team would arrange for Olympic legend Simone Biles and her husband, Chicago Bear Jonathan Owens, to pose for a photo with the shake. Two fans wore customized jerseys to Sox Park — one with the word “Campfire” and the No. 20, and the other with “Milkshake” and the No. 24. Concession stand workers routinely say food and drink sales soar when the home team plays well. With few fans in the stands watching miserable baseball, tasting a shake provides a legitimate reason to attend a game.
“It makes all the sense in the world that the team would want to hop fans up on sugar but not fill us up on any nutrition,” South Side Sox editor Brett Ballantini writes to Eater. “[It] certainly dovetails with a smoke-and-mirrors front office, hiring processes, on-field performance…”
Milkshakes became a White Sox thing in 2022 when Levy executive chef Ryan Craig launched the horchata-churro flavor. The next season the team introduced the magonada, complete with a tamarind straw. Fans also had the option to spike the shake with booze. Those entries paved the way so the Campfire could burn.
Speaking during a media event in late August at Soldier Field, the inventor of the Campfire Milkshake, told Eater that he had no plans to create a shake for the Chicago Bears. Craig wanted to ensure the White Sox had something exclusive that would put a smile on their faces. He, of course, diplomatically didn’t mention the obvious: Why would the Bears want their own shake and want to be associated with baseball’s version of the Titanic?
For $15 — which rivals the cost of a ballpark beer — is it shake good? Former White Sox catcher A.J. Pierzynski isn’t impressed: “It comes in a cool glass, but I mean, it’s a milkshake,” the 2005 World Series champ said on the September 23 episode of the Foul Territory podcast. “It’s a milkshake with some chocolate and marshmallow on top. I mean it’s OK. It’s slightly above average.”
Pierzynski’s assessment is accurate. The torched or burned marshmallows aren’t even melted, it’s more for the look than the taste. But carrying the shake around is like a South Side status symbol, the equivalent of parading a Prada bag around the main concourse. That comes with concerns. On an unseasonably warm September afternoon, the sun melted the chocolate rim. Unless fans want warm chocolate on their fingers, these shakes are meant to be quickly consumed on the air-conditioned club level.
The 2025 season doesn’t look promising, coming on the 20th anniversary of the 2005 World Series win. Management is already saying that bad attendance will prevent them from improving the lineup through free agency, typically the quickest way to better a team. There’s already been talk about trading any player of value. Could management trade the recipe for the Campfire Shake to another team? If the shake returns, how much will the Sox increase prices? Management’s 2025 focus could be on funding a new ballpark. In February 2024, the team floated the idea of asking for $1 billion in public funding for a new stadium development. It would take more than 66.6 million shakes to reach that amount. Perhaps the Sox could hold a giant bake sale.
As of now, the shake looks like it may go down in White Sox infamy, with shorts, the problematic Disco Demolition Night, and Nolan Ryan’s noogies. It’s a symbol of the worst season in baseball history. And that’s not a very sweet memory at all.
Cultivate by Forbidden Root is one of many beer options along Malt Row.|
Garrett Sweet/Eater Chicago
Chicago is one of the biggest craft brewing hubs in the nation, home to industry pioneers like Goose Island (a subsidiary of Anheuser-Busch) and fledgling operations sharing space in brewery incubators. For brew aficionados who want to spend a day getting a taste of the city’s beer scene, there’s no better place to go than Malt Row, the name given by the Greater Ravenswood Chamber of Commerce to the stretch of breweries and taprooms along the Metra tracks in the Ravenswood Industrial Corridor. Running about a mile and a half through a residential North Side neighborhood, the zone from Irving Park Road to Balmoral Avenue is home to eight taprooms plus a distillery and a winery, all close enough for a long, boozy stroll. Try a wide variety of beers ranging from traditional German-style lagers to funky saisons made with Midwestern fruit. Check out these 10 Malt Row spots and then take home a six-pack or growler of a new favorite.
The chefs and cooks representing Chicago’s South Asian community have expanded their culinary vision in recent years. Restaurants are diving into regional fare, and there are now two options for Indian tasting menus.
While the suburbs continue to see growth, and with that comes more food options, Chicago has more Indian restaurants than ever, and they’re located all across the city. Urban dwellers can find Indian, Pakistani, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi food. A few Devon Street entries even have outdoor seating, a new development as the city’s South Asian hub continues to evolve. While Devon, the birthplace of Patel Brothers — America’s largest Indian grocer — holds a special place for many, the rest of the city has wonderful culinary options that shouldn’t be dismissed.
Below, find Eater Chicago’s favorite South Asian restaurants.
Eater maps are curated by editors and aim to reflect a diversity of neighborhoods, cuisines, and prices. Learn more about our editorial process.
If you buy something or book a reservation from an Eater link, Vox Media may earn a commission. See our ethics policy.
A judge has denied a motion to dismiss a lawsuit filed against a Hubbard Inn customer who in March posted a TikTok video claiming the venue’s bouncer dragged her out of the bathroom and shoved her, sending her “flying down the staircase.”
The customer, Julia Reel, is the subject of a defamation lawsuit filed by the Hubbard Inn’s lawyers. In the filing, the bar’s council claims that her social media post, which was shared more than 100,000 times, defamed the business, leading to more than $30,000 in canceled reservations, threats to their staff, and negative publicity with their Yelp page review bombed.
“I will never be going back there, and you shouldn’t either,” Reel said in her now-deleted video.
Reel’s video showed her sitting on her bed, calling the March 10 incident “the craziest experience she’s ever been in” and that she was “manhandled.” Cook County circuit court judge Patrick Sherlock denied her motion to dismiss the case on Tuesday, September 25, and ordered a response to the court by Tuesday, October 15.
After Reel posted her video in March, in an unusual move for a restaurant, Hubbard Inn responded with its own video spliced with Reel’s voiceover that included security footage allegedly showing the Tiktokker and a friend walking down a staircase with a bouncer following them. The Hubbard Inn video claimed Reel was “politely escorted off the premises, ensuring a safe exit.” A week later, the club filed the lawsuit against Reel.
Reel quickly turned to a law firm, Corboy & Demetrio, which put out its own TikTok video with a statement defending their client; it’s since been deleted and Reel has since switched attorneys.
Part of Reel’s new council, Rebecca Kaiser Fournier, an attorney at Henderson Parks, didn’t immediately return a request for comment. Reel is also represented by Forde & O’Meara, according to Cook County documents.
As the drama unfolded in March, online observers sat back and took their shots at Reel. The popular social media account Know Your Meme even posted about the conflict.
Reel filed a police report following the alleged altercation at Hubbard Inn claiming she was treated at Northwestern Memorial Hospital after a bouncer removed her from a bathroom while she was urinating. She claims the bouncer pushed her down the stairs causing her head to hit the ground. Reel, 22 at the time, told police she suffered bruises to her head and arm. No arrests were made.
A Hubbard Inn rep says police never contacted the bar for any follow-ups to Reel’s report.
In the motion to dismiss, filed on Wednesday, September 4, Reel’s attorneys argue her client’s video was “not a statement of fact but rather an internet review and her opinion of the business — not grounds for a defamation claim.” Reel’s attorneys also cite a classic piece of Chicago restaurant lore: a lawsuit filed by Peter Schivarelli, the founder of Demon Dogs, a hot dog stand that once stood under the CTA’s Fullerton Red and Brown line stop in Lincoln Park.
Schivarelli, a former streets and sanitation supervisor (who also managed the rock band Chicago), in 1999 sued CBS Chicago over a commercial that referenced a 1997 news report about Schivarelli’s involvement in a ghost payrolling scandal. The ad touted the channel’s investigative reporting unit and featured a clip from Pam Zekman’s piece with the reporter telling Schivarelli “you are cheating the city.” Schivarelli would argue that the clip lacked context and counted as defamation. The case was dismissed in 2001.
Hubbard Inn’s attorneys claim Reel ignored multiple requests in March to remove her post and that pushed them to sue.
The owners of Machine, a Wicker Park cocktail bar and lounge, are facing an eviction lawsuit. Their landlords filed the lawsuit on July 29, claiming the bar’s owners owe $31,584. The next court date is October 25, according to Cook County records.
Machine’s owners, Chireal Jordan and Brian Galati, confirm via a spokesperson that they permanently closed the bar in July and they failed to negotiate a lease. Online listings only show a temporary closure.
The bar struggled in recent months to attract customers and cut hours. Jordan and Galati are also behind Headquarters Beercade. In June, they opened another cocktail bar, Dearly Beloved, in Pilsen. The rep says the two want to soon open Machine in a different space and hope to settle their eviction dispute with their landlord, Newcastle Retail Management.
Dearly Beloved shares similarities with Machine, which opened in March 2019 at 1846 W. Division Street. While Division Steet isn’t really Chicago’s longest street (sorry, Mr. Terkel), the stretch around Wicker Park does come with complications for restaurant owners — and that was even before 2020 and COVID’s spread. Before Machine’s debut, Jordan and Galati described their upcoming project as a cocktail restaurant. It had gimmicks — interactive elements like a tiny hammer used to break caramelized sugar lids covering cocktails. A burger came topped with foie gras and that angered animal activists. The bar also had a floral display cooler that was regularly stocked. Customers could buy fresh flowers to impress dates and parents or make themselves happy.
However, after the politicians closed bars and dining rooms during the pandemic, Division Street launched into another phase. Wicker Park was once a hub for nightlife with customers routinely crawling through multiple taverns on a weekend night. In the ‘90s, it was more of a hipster vibe, with art and music leading the way. That environment quickly dissipated when sports bars, like the Fifty/50, set up shop in the ‘00s. The co-owner of Club Foot, a Ukrainian Village bar that closed in 2014 and was filled with pop-culture trinkets catering to customers who didn’t care for pop music and football, dubbed the sports bars popping up and threatening her business as “bro-holes.”
But the neighborhood has yet again shifted with more families in the neighborhood — just check out the “stroller parking” sign at Parlor Pizza. Throw in economic challenges including rising labor and food costs, and restaurant owners don’t know which way to pivot. There have been more recent closures along the strip: Fifty/50 and Whadda Jerk are shuttered just west of Damen Avenue. The owners of Takito Kitchen, which has been on Division for more than a decade, have repeatedly warned that they’re close to closing, begging customers on social media to return to help business.
Machine enjoyed a five-year run along Division Street, inside a space whose past lives included Taus Authentic and Prasino. The space now joins a list of growing vacancies between Ashland and Western.
It’s time to go down the witches’ road! Mal and Jo conjure up a pod that dives deep into the season premiere of Agatha All Along! The two give their overall impressions of the show and what they think about the follow-up to the hit WandaVision (08:17). They then get into the first two episodes and later stop by Theory Corner to see what could be in store for our witchy crew!
Hosts: Mallory Rubin and Joanna Robinson Producer: Steve Ahlman Video Editor: Stefano Sanchez Additional Production: Arjuna Ramgopal and John Richter Social: Jomi Adeniran
Tavern on Rush is keeping its sign. When Phil Stefani and his children reopen the steakhouse across the street from its original space in Gold Coast, passersby will see the familiar oval-shaped black and gold logo with the tagline “an exciting restaurant.”
A revived Tavern on Rush should open on Monday, September 30 at 1015 N. Rush Street, according to a news release. That’s at the Thompson Hotel inside the former Nico Osteria, the lauded Italian seafood restaurant that opened in 2013 by the team behind the Publican and Big Star. Before Nico, the space housed Chicago’s outpost of the Whiskey, the chain of bars owned by Rande Gerber, the entrepreneur who also launched Casamigos Tequila with George Clooney. Gerber is married to model Cindy Crawford. The two are parents of model Kaia Gerber.
In both the Whiskey and Tavern’s heydays in the ’90s and ’00s, big-name touring musicians would stop by as would sports stars playing Chicago teams. Stefani would reminisce about seeing Michael Jordan smoke cigars. Tavern was known for its people-watching and bars, though it also served steakhouse fare. The original closed in October 2023, capping off 24 years on Rush Street. Stefani, a revered culinary figure in Chicago, was pushed out by his landlords, Fred Barbara and James Banks. In March, those two opened a new restaurant, the Bellevue, in the Tavern space.
The revamped bar.Tavern on Rush/Alexa Vaicaitis
Tavern on Rush’s private dining room.Tavern on Rush/Alexa Vaicaitis
The two sides have apparently made peace as they’ve moved on to their new projects near Rush and Division, an area known for iconic restaurants like Gibsons and Maple & Ash. However, the biggest opening of the year may have been the return of Foxtrot, as its founder relaunches the corner store chain after its former founders left the brand in bankruptcy. Rosebud Restaurants hope for their own revival after crews demolished the building that housed Carmine’s at 1043 N. Rush Street. A new location should open inside the newly constructed building in the spring.
Tavern 2.0 takes up two floors and 16,000 square feet. It’s larger than the original and will have food from Chicago native chef Michael Wallach. “Wally” has worked at Weber Grill, Carlucci’s, Nick’s Fishmarket, McCormick & Schmick’s, and Park Grill. The experience fits with what Tavern customers expect near the infamous Viagra Triangle. Sample menu items include wagyu ravioli and perhaps a nod to Nico with seafood Cataplana.
In earlier interviews, Stefani’s children spoke about leaving their marks. For example, Gina Stefani said she was excited about focusing more on brunch as the Gold Coast needs more options. Gina Stefani enjoyed success at her West Loop restaurant, Mad Social, which built a strong brunch following. While the ’90s and ’00s may have seen long late-night lines flowing outside bars, the demand isn’t as strong and perhaps has shifted toward morning meals. Brunch will launch after the restaurant debuts. The bar program won’t just be about whisky, beer, and martinis. They’ll incorporate ingredients and spirits not associated with the original tavern using agave and pineapple. That’s one way to appeal to a younger crowd who might not be enthralled with the restaurant’s history.
Does Tavern still qualify as an “exciting restaurant?” Find out when it debuts in 10 days.
Tavern on Rush, 1015 N. Rush Street, planned for a Monday, September 30 opening.
Jewish families love to pass along legends of selfless bubbes who have spent countless early fall afternoons in the kitchen, kneading challah dough, chopping carrots for tsimmes, and stirring steaming pots of chicken soup. How those women suffered to prepare the high holiday meals! How they wanted their children and grandchildren to know of their suffering!
Luckily you can deliver a Rosh Hashanah feast without all that work and guilt by perusing Eater Chicago’s list of restaurants, delis, and bakeries in and around Chicago with full meals and soup, sides, and challah. There are options to dine out and cater in for the Jewish New Year and break fast platters loaded with lox and bagels for Yom Kippur break fast. Just be sure to order well in advance to avoid any kvetching.
Aba: Aba in Fulton Market offers a Mediterranean inflection on holiday favorites — customers can order verjus-braised chicken, charred beef brisket, sumac-roasted baby turnips with mini carrots, and apple kataifi tart tatin for takeout. Orders are open until 3 p.m. on Sunday, September 29 via Tock. Dine-in patrons can count on special dishes such as shaved brussels sprouts salad from Wednesday, October 2 through Saturday, October 5.
Beatrix Fulton Market, River North, and Streeterville: The Beatrix Rosh Hashanah meal serves up all the classics: gefilte fish (typically for Passover), chopped liver, matzo ball soup, burnt honey chicken, slow-braised short ribs, potato pancakes (see: Hanukkah), apples and honey, and two kinds of cake — lemon olive oil and chocolate. The family-style package is available to order until noon on Tuesday, October 1 for pickup or delivery on Wednesday, October 2, and Thursday, October 3. Order online.
Bistronomic: The Gold Coast French restaurant offers a three-course dinner Wednesday, October 2, and Thursday, October 3 including housemade chicken liver mousse, seared salmon with eggplant puree and apple & honey challah bread pudding. Make a reservation through OpenTable.
Ema: Aba’s River North sibling offers a Rosh Hashanah dinner for two, or for 8-10 for those feeding a group, that includes shaved brussels sprout salad, braised lamb daube, miso-maple tzimmes and apple kataifi tarte tartin. Orders can be placed on Tock through noon Monday, September 30 for carryout or delivery Wednesday, October 2, and Thursday, October 3. Some of the dishes are also available on those days as dine-in specials.
The Goddess and Grocer: Chef Debbie Sharpe’s mini-chain has a variety of options.Choose from family-sized portions of appetizers, salads, entrees, and desserts; dinner packages for two or more; and Yom Kippur platters of bagels and lox or vegetarian frittatas. Preorders for Rosh Hashanah must be in by noon on Tuesday, September 24, and Yom Kippur by noon on Monday, October 7. Peruse the menus and place orders online.
The Goddess and Grocer
Helfeld’s Deli: The Wicker Park Jewish deli offers a Rosh Hashanah catering menu Wednesday, October 2 through Friday, October 4 featuring whole roasted chicken, tzimmes, chopped liver, round challah, and noodle kugel. Pastrami, hand-cut nova lox, pickles, and cream cheese are also available by the pound.
Lure Fishbar:New York import Lure Fishbar will mark the High Holidays with a dine-in menu of matzo ball soup, Autumn harvest salad, oven-roasted chicken, baked whitefish, an apple and hot honey sushi roll, and ricotta doughnut with apple cider glaze for dessert. The lineup is available for Rosh Hashanah from Wednesday, October 2 through Saturday, October 5.
Manny’s Deli: For a traditional feast, order from Manny’s Deli, a family-run spot that has which has been serving Ashkenazi Jewish fare for more than 80 years. Their Rosh Hashanah menu includes chopped liver, matzo ball soup by the quart, four types of brisket, sweet noodle kugel, and round raisin challah. For dessert, add on apple honey cake or cookies shaped like a shofar. They also supply everything needed for Yom Kipper break fast, with trays of lox, tuna salad, and deli meats. Place an order by Friday, September 27 for Rosh Hashanah or Wednesday, October 9 for Yom Kippur.
Max and Benny’s: The beloved Northbrook deli will be open on both Rosh Hashanah (dine-in and takeout) and Yom Kippur (takeout only) and also has a full catering menu available, with chicken, brisket, fish, chicken soup, bagel-and-lox platters, and more. Order online by Sunday, September 29 for Rosh Hashanah or Wednesday, October 9 for Yom Kippur for pre-holiday pickup.
Mensch’s Deli: Evanston’s new Jewish deli offers a special catering menu from Tuesday, October 1 through Sunday, October 13 including matzo ball soup, roasted beet salad, honey harissa-glazed roast chicken, carrot tzimmes, and challah bread pudding. Challah, potato kugel, and vegetarian stuffed cabbage are available to add on. Mench’s regular menu of lox, bagels, pastries, and fruit trays is available to break the Yom Kippur fast. Place an order online 24 hours in advance.
Prairie Grass Cafe: Suburban Northbrook’s Prairie Grass Cafe is offering holiday brisket dinners for two that include salad, barbecue brisket, roasted cauliflower, and warm sticky toffee date cake from James Beard Award winner Sarah Stegner. Add-ons include chicken noodle soup, tzimmes, and chopped chicken liver. Call (847) 205-4433 by Monday, September 30 to order; pickup is 4 to 7 p.m. Thursday, October 3.
Schneider Deli:The Jewish deli within Chicago’s iconic mid-century Ohio House Motel is offering brisket, oven-roasted turkey breast, matzo ball soup, honey cake, and a smattering of sides including garlic roasted broccoli and latkes with sour cream and applesauce. Orders can be placed through Toast for Wednesday, October 2 through Sunday, October 6. The deli’s standard bagel and lox platters are available for Yom Kippur Friday, October 11, and Saturday, October 12.
Steingold’s of Chicago: Chef, owner, and bagel specialist Aaron Steingold has tons of Rosh Hashanah offerings available from Tuesday, October 1 through Friday, October 4 this year, including beef brisket, apple cider roast chicken, and honey apple cake for four to six. Options available through Oct. 13 include smoked trout salad, chicken schnitzel, rugelach, and lox platters perfect for breaking the fast after Yom Kippur. Order online via Toast.
Summer House Santa Monica
Summer House Santa Monica: The Lincoln Park restaurant offers a four-course dinner from 5-9 p.m. Wednesday, October 2 and Thursday, October 3 start with a spread of challah, apples with honey, chopped liver, and gefilte fish with beet horseradish. Polish off a bowl of matzo ball soup before a choice of wood-grilled salmon or slow-braised beef short rib served with potato pancakes and tzimmes, with an apple galette for dessert. Reservations are available through OpenTable though those who prefer to dine at home can preorder the meal by noon on Friday, September 27 via Tock.
Concertgoers love an encore. Daisiesset a standard in January with its croissant collaboration with Wieners Circle, as the Logan Square pasta power created a croissant filled with the familiar toppings of a Chicago hot dog. Partner and pastry chef Leigh Omilinsky has since teamed with the Chicago Blackhawks on a limited-time offering.
Daisies found an unlikely collaborator with Wilco, the Chicago-based alt-country band passionate about supporting small businesses. Starting on Friday, September 20 Daisies will sell a limited edition croissant that celebrates the band’s 30th anniversary and all things pickles. Tweedy and Omilinsky take Wilco fans on a nostalgic journey on social media using song references while Tweedy provides his rationale.
“Every song I’ve ever written is about pickles,” Tweedy deadpans in an Instagram video posted on Wednesday, September 18 announcing the croissant.
While the Daisies/Wieners Circle croissant included a pickle, nothing matches the pickled prowess of Daisies’ newest creation, called Dill-Co. The croissant will be available for a limited time and launch in conjunction with Tweedy’s upcoming appearance on Saturday, September 21 at Navy Pier, part of Chicago Live!, a free festival featuring more than 100 performances. Sales from the croissant will benefit the former Lakeview Pantry, now known as Nourishing Hope.
Daisies has long celebrated pickling and fermenting techniques in its food and drink, so pickles weren’t an odd request for Omilinsky. While the world of pickles is vast, Tweedy and his camp wanted pickled cucumbers. Knowing that Omilinsky needed something to hold the pastry together, and turned to Jewish delis for inspiration, opting for a dill cream cheese. She adds chopped pickles, giardiniera, dill, and dehydrated pickle powder.
This isn’t Wilco’s first food collaboration. They also partnered with Foxtrot in 2022 as the chain produced a snack mix with the band’s branding.
Omilinsky has spent the last few weeks at Green City Market in Lincoln Park, selling pastries on Wednesdays and Fridays. While they won’t sell the Dill-Co pastry at the farmers market, she says it wasn’t hard convincing Tweedy to collaborate: “People are pretty cool, and I think that’s a good thing to remember in this day and age,” she says. “All you have to do is ask.”
She adds she was taken aback filming the video at the Loft, the legendary practice space turned studio. Omilinsky says Tweedy had stories for every trinket inside.
Daisies co-owner Scott Goldstein and his brother-in-law, Dave Yakir, were again in charge of putting the video together, as their company Streeterville Productions specializes in such content. Goldstein says coming up with the pickle jokes was a challenge, but once he fixated on Wilco’s song, She’s a Jar, the floodgates opened. Goldstein was also very complimentary of Tweedy’s acting talents.
“It’s a crime we can’t play guitar and sing as well as he can tell jokes,” Goldstein says.
Dill-Co at Daisies, starting on Friday, September 20.
Jason Chan wants to fill a void in Old Town, one that’s existed for nine years after Bistrot Margot closed along Wells Street. Chan, one of the most beloved figures in Chicago’s restaurant scene, is known for his love of martial arts almost as much as his affability. He’s now opening a 32-seat French restaurant in October at a space a few blocks from Bistrot Margot.
Old Town may have a French bakery in La Fournette, but Margot’s closure left the neighborhood without a French restaurant — the closest a mile north in Lincoln Park at Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises’ Mon Ami Gabi. Chan will rectify that when he opens Gavroche late in September at 1529 N. Wells Street. Chan’s travels over the last two years have sent him to Japan, Italy, and Spain, but he says his time in Paris left the biggest impression. While in France, Chan says he witnessed a culinary revolution that spun away from the bistros Chicagoans associate with French food.
“Of all the places, what I really loved the most were just tiny mom-and-pop, the 20- or 30-seat restaurants that had maybe five employees,” Chan says.
Gavroche — also a character from Les Misérables — will offer a “contemporary, modern version of French food” without “the heavy creams and butters and seven mother sauces,” says Chan. The menu will have about 18 items with seven daily specials. About four of the specials will be classic dishes, what most envision when they crave French food, Chan says. Chan says he made a spreadsheet of Chicago’s 17 French restaurants and found most of them had the same menus. One way of distinguishing a menu is embracing how African influences have impacted French cuisine. All in all, Chan wants his new restaurant to disrupt with innovation: “Bistro is not rocket science,” he says.
The menu at Gavroche will include dishes like charred French radishes with salted butter, fennel pollen, and a warm demi-baguette; a “niçoise” hamachi sashimi with egg yolk confit, seasonal vegetables, petit lettuce, pickled pearl onion, and white anchovy vinaigrette; and turbot au four beurre blanc with Polanco caviar and smoked crème fraîche beurre blanc.
There will be a four-seat counter. There are no plans for a tasting menu, but if Chan sees one of his chef friends or someone he knows who would appreciate something a little extra, he’ll seat them at the counter and curate a menu omakase style: “It would kind of be like a secret deal that’s not a secret,” Chan says.
Chan took a corporate job during the pandemic, and found love — he’s engaged. His fiance, Heather Blaise, is also a designer and is working on the restaurant, the former Old Town spinoff of Fish Bar. Chan’s resume includes serving as the general manager of Kitana, giving the chain someone with deep Chicago roots. He also opened Juno, the sushi restaurant in Lincoln Park. He’s worked for several restaurant groups, including DMK, and opened Butter in 2005 in West Loop. He comes from a legacy of restaurants as his parents ran several restaurants around Chicago, including a Jewish deli in Lakeview, an Irish pub in Andersonville, and a coffee shop in the Loop. Chan independently developed a love for French cuisine, working in the mid-’80s at L’Escargot in the Allerton Hotel off the Mag Mile. His parents pushed him away from working in the kitchen, wanting him to enter the professional ranks as a doctor or attorney. They gave Chan the least desirable jobs hoping he would be repulsed when he was a youngster. It backfired.
“Buddy, when you’re when you’re in a 3,500-square-foot Irish pub by yourself, and it’s Saturday morning and you’re pissed because all your friends are in pajamas, eating cereal, and watching cartoons, and you’re cleaning a fucking restaurant bar,” Chan recalls. “After three months of crying and hating it every time I did it, I would pretend I was a chef when I was in the kitchen, I would pretend I was the manager when I was sweeping the floor.”
While Chan serves as the inspiration for the restaurant, he’ll delegate cooking responsibilities to Mitchell Acuña. Chan was impressed by Acuña’s willingness to learn, and the chef worked at Boka, North Pond, and Sixteen. Chan spoke with Sixteen chef Nick Dostal who gave Acuña his endorsement as the two worked together at the Trump Tower restaurant when it was worthy of a Michelin star. Also joining the team is pastry chef Christine McCabe. McCabe worked at Charlie Trotter’s and worked with Chan prior, most recently at their Time Out Market Chicago stall, Sugar Cube. Chan says the pandemic led to the sweet shop’s demise just when the sweets shop began to find traction in 2020. McCabe will bake the breads and eventually be in charge of upcoming brunch and lunch menus.
Reservations will only be accepted for groups of six or more — Chan wants to encourage walk-ins. He also wants to offer late-night dining. They have a 2 a.m. liquor license and intend to make use of it. He’s also sowing the seeds for more projects. He loves the history of Prohibition and says he has an idea for a speakeasy bar, one that eschews gimmicks for a genuine slice of history. He also has an idea for a fast-casual restaurant.
Gavroche, 1529 N. Wells Street, planned for late-September opening.
It’s September and students are back to school and the colors have started to change. As the seasons turn, five notable restaurants have launched new weekend brunch services. Here’s a rundown on what to expect.
Daisies
The popular Logan Square restaurant was a brunch paradise at its original location. But chef Joe Frillman’s crew have been reluctant to bring brunch back at their larger space, preferring to focus on dinner, the daytime pastry and coffee program, and weekday lunch. But, with the blessing of GM and pastry chef Leigh Omilinsky, they’ve launched Sunday brunch, from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. with reservations via OpenTable. The menu includes whole-wheat pancakes, Frillman’s signature Overpriced Tomato (get it while tomato season lasts), a brunchy pasta with runny egg — carbonara cavatelli — and salmon gravlax. Omilinsky’s pastries are also available.
Goose Island Salt Shed Pub
Brunch is now served on Saturday and Sunday at Goose Island’s Salt Shed Pub.Goose Island Beer
After relocating from their home of more than three decades in Lincoln Park, Goose Island Beer has set up shop next to the Salt Shed music venue with a pub neighboring the Chicago River — there’s even patio seating. Brunch is served at 10 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday, and reservations are available via Resy at 1221 W. Blackhawk Street. The menu includes French toast with a Bourbon County Stout caramel sauce, a green eggs and ham croissant sandwich, cornmeal biscuits & gravy, and more.
Hawksmoor
In River North, Hawksmoor has been open since late June inside the former Michael Jordan’s at 500 N. LaSalle Drive. The English steakhouse also has a location in New York. On Sunday, September 29, they’ll introduce their Chicago location to the British tradition of the Sunday roast, a meal typically eaten after attending church. Steak is usually the centerpiece of a roast, and at Hawksmoor, they’ll feature dry-aged roast beef rump with potatoes roasted in beef fat with bone marrow gravy. There’s also Yorkshire pudding (Sunday Roasts originated in the 15th century in the English city), Brussels sprouts, and carrots. Hawksmoor also serves bone marrow stuffing and cauliflower cheese. Reservations are available via OpenTable.
Minyoli
Minyoli’s dan bing.Minyoli
In Andersonville, Minyoli, 5420 N. Clark Street, has been serving Taiwanese noodles since May. Chef Rich Wang’s restaurant now offers Sunday brunch from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. The brunch menu — which is also available for carryout — includes Taiwanese breakfast rice rolls called fan tuan. They’re served with youtiao, a type of savory doughnut. There’s also a Taiwanese egg crepe, dan bing with scallion as well as sweet soy and hai shan (soy paste). Finally, don’t forget the flatbread sandwich. Shaobing comes customizable with options including Taiwanese fried chicken, sliced beef shank, and pork floss. Reservations are available online.
Skylark
One of the best dives in Chicago has been offering Sunday brunch since September with a rotating crew of talented chefs, and that’s drawn attention from North Siders who aren’t always open to visiting neighborhoods south of Roosevelt. At Skylar, 2149 S. Halsted, brunch is from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and on Sunday, September 22, they’ll feature Morgan Street Snacks, the operation that took up residency next to Kimski/Maria’s Community Liquors in fall 2022. The Reader published a nice profile of Morgan Street’s leader, Ryan Cofrancesco, last week. On Sunday, September 29 the Skylark will serve something many Chicagoans have tasted: Thai brunch. Puan Bahn Thai Brunch will be served by chef Fred Noinaj, most recently of Lost Lake. Be on the lookout on Skylark’s social media channels for future brunch pop-ups.
It’s hard to think of any food Chicagoans agree upon more than cheese. They argue about hot dogs, beefs, tavern pizza, and tacos. But when cheese enters the conversation, locals become soothed like an angry tiger tamed by a trainer. They eat “cheese” on nachos in plastic batting helmets (no matter which team is playing), scarf-flaming saganaki, fried cheese curds, and gooey quesabirria, and are tantalized by the cheese pull from a pan of deep dish.
As the weather cools, Eater Chicago collected five examples of excellent cheesy dishes around town that will charm every savage beast.
La Serre’s French onion fondue
La Serre has been packing the house since they opened this past summer in the crosshairs of the Fulton Market restaurant zone. Every Emily-in-Paris-in-Chicago has been clamoring for a table full of St. Tropez Spritzes, angel hair with caviar, and duck Chinois, plus the best mussels this side of northwest France’s Brittany region. Naturally, there’s plenty on the French-ish menu to choose from for the cheese-loving set, but the French onion fondue is truly not to be missed. Gobs of wine-soaked caramelized onions served topped with melted gruyere cheese for spreading on grilled sourdough, baguette, or frite without annoying soup to water down the experience.
Nettare’s cheese plate
This isn’t a sad wine bar’s cheese plate at Nettare.Nettare
When Conner O’Byrne, owner of West Town’s Nettare, asked chef John Dahlstrom to add a Midwest cheese plate to his menu, he worried if his boss “wanted a quintessential phoned-in wine bar menu.” O’Byrne pushed hard, inspired by Wisconsin’s epic rep in award-winning cheese production. Dahlstrom accepted the challenge and made O’Byrne and Nettare’s customers happy. Dahlstrom is proud of a rotating selection of the Midwest’s cheese bounty, including Black Goat from Prairie Fruits Farm in Champaign, Dirt Lover from Kansas City’s Green Dirt Farm, and many more. Guests can select one, two, or three options and add a house-made charcuterie item. Dahlstrom throws in tahini crackers, local honey and jam, and a handful of smoked and candied black walnuts. This takes this cheese plate far higher than just a pedestrian wine bar menu.
Maxwells Trading’s Loaf Lounge marble rye with stracciatella
Maxwells Trading showcases marble rye from Logan Square’s Loaf Lounge.Wade Hall
The menu changes frequently at Maxwells Trading, but the local love-child vibe stays true to its delicious Chicago roots. That vibe includes featuring friends like Sarah Mispagel and Ben Lustbader and their magnificent Loaf Lounge marble rye sourdough bread and neighbors like rooftop basil and cherry tomatoes which, according to executive chef Chris Jung are amplified using a soak of Japanese flavors like shiro dashi and united by a tasty cloak of fresh stracciatella cheese from Caputo Cheese in Melrose Park. Because honestly, what brings folks (and other ingredients) together better than cheese? Stracciatella is poised to topple the reign of cheese terror previously held by the beloved burrata ball for almost a decade. Made up of torn bits of mozzarella dressed in cream (like what you’ll find in the center of that burrata), stracciatella’s milky, spoonable richness deserves the star turn it has been taking lately.
Mano a Mano’s eggplant cutlet
Mano a Mano’s eggplant cutlet is memorable.Mano a Mano
The menu at Logan Square’s Mano a Mano is loaded with stracciatella and other Italian-style cheeses — like zucchini flowers stuffed with fior de latte mozzarella and fresh buffalo milk ricotta, the tiny ravioletti filled with taleggio and black truffle, and — just like at nonna’s — you’ll get a bowl of grated cheese to sprinkle on your dinner at will. Your server will advise you to order the eggplant cutlet, and order it you must. Chef Doug Psaltis’s take on eggplant parm is a young farm eggplant, crisped up and served with a spicy tomato sauce, with that delicious stracciatella schmeared on top. Says Psaltis: “I fell in love with it after first tasting it on a trip to Puglia. Stracciatella’s wonderful creaminess and fresh cream flavor make it a perfect pair for the spicy Diavolo sauce of our eggplant cutlet.”
Beautiful Rind’s chevre sundae
Ice cream and cheese create a great combo at Beautiful Rind.Beautiful Rind
You already know that Beautiful Rind is one of the city’s best cheese shops. You might even know that they offer an exciting dine-in or takeout cheese board menu complete with imaginative, housemade, choose-your-own-adventure accompaniments, plus gooey sandwiches, charcuterie, and fried cheese curds. But did you know that you can order a chevre sundae, consisting of three scoops of fresh Wisconsin goat cheese plus seasonal sauces and crushed marcona almonds, and no one will judge you? “We’ve always scooped fresh goat cheese with an ice cream scoop to help showcase the fluffy, light texture of fresh, hand-ladled cheese,” says owner Randall Felts. The next step was serving it sundae style in a cut glass dish, obviously, with toppings like salted stout chocolate ganache, strawberry amaro jam, and pineapple jam spiked with Aleppo chiles. “We want people to have fun with cheese and see our shop as a more adult version of a candy shop… full of delicious treats of the cheese variety,” Felt adds.
Editor’s note, September 17, 2024: This piece was originally published on August 20, 2019, when the seventh episode of Break Stuff: The Story of Woodstock ’99 was released. To mark the recent 25th anniversary of the festival, The Ringer is resurfacing Break Stuff on its own dedicated Spotify feed.
In 1999, a music festival in upstate New York became a social experiment. There were riots, looting, and numerous assaults, all set to a soundtrack of the era’s most aggressive rock bands. Incredibly, this was the third iteration of Woodstock, a festival originally known for peace, love, and hippie idealism. But Woodstock ’99 revealed some hard truths behind the myths of the 1960s and the danger that nostalgia can engender.
Below is an excerpt from the seventh episode of Break Stuff. Find the series here, and check back each Tuesday and Thursday through September 19 for new episodes.
By early Sunday morning, on Woodstock ’99’s final day, many attendees were still trying to sleep off the previous night’s partying. But the media people covering the festival were up with the sun. In the harsh light of day, Griffiss Air Force Base looked like a wasteland.
“We got there before anybody had started playing, before anybody had left their tents,” says Dave Holmes, an on-air host for MTV in 1999. “I got a photograph from the stage of the entire lawn, the main viewing area, and it was just a sea of trash and one single person face down asleep. Not on a sleeping bag, just on the grass. It was just him and a thousand hot dog wrappers and red Solo cups and napkins for as far as the eye can see. And that is my enduring image of Woodstock ’99.”
Rob Sheffield, who covered the festival for Rolling Stone, was also up early that morning, surveying the damage.
“Everybody was really pretty used up and burned out by Sunday morning,” he says. “I hadn’t done a drug all weekend and I felt like the wrath of God so I can just imagine how people who were literally hungover were feeling.
“I slept on a pile of pizza boxes. Pizza boxes were a very good surface to sleep on because pizza boxes are white. And, uh, because they’re white, you could tell if they’d been urinated on or not. Which makes them very very useful if you’re looking for something to sleep on. Because every flat surface there had been so thoroughly urinated on.”
The music on Saturday culminated with some of the loudest and most aggressive bands of the entire festival: Metallica, Rage Against the Machine, and Limp Bizkit. Sunday, however, started on a much different foot musically. Wearing sunglasses and his signature black hat, Willie Nelson attempted to bring a little mellowness back to the festival.
“His set begins with ‘Whiskey River,’” Sheffield says. “And that was one of the great musical moments of the weekend, ’cause I just remember everybody really kind of breathing a sigh of relief. Willie is going to take care of us. Willie is the smart sane adult in the room at this point—not the promoters, definitely not the security people.”
But the laid-back feeling Nelson brought to Woodstock ’99 was short-lived. Not long after Willie Nelson left the stage in clouds of marijuana smoke, another smart, sane adult—Elvis Costello—came out.
Now, I love Elvis Costello. I am a rock critic, after all. I think he’s one of the great singer-songwriters of the ’70s and ’80s. But Woodstock ’99 wasn’t exactly his crowd. In the video, you can see people throwing water bottles at Elvis before he’s even reached the chorus of his first song.
“Elvis Costello, he really tried, but he was with an acoustic guitar and was playing for the most part for a non–Elvis Costello–cultist kind of crowd,” Sheffield says. “He began with a deep cut from Spike, ‘Pads, Paws, and Claws,’ and it was just a preposterously bad performance that was self-indulgent in a rock star kind of way. It was just really kind of abrasive and aggravating for people. … The collective angst level of the crowd got a little uglier.”
The bad feeling that Rob picked up on during Elvis Costello’s set was also felt by Jake Hafner, a 23-year-old Syracuse man hired to work for the festival’s Peace Patrol. Jake and his fellow guards were already struggling to contend with a depleted security force. By Sunday, many of Jake’s coworkers had already been fired; others simply quit once they were inside the base in order to join the party. But when Jake showed up for his shift on Sunday afternoon, the tension in the air was even sharper and more intense.
“It would get a little closer to the edge every night,” he says. “By Sunday when we showed up for work we all knew collectively that something was going to happen that night. It was just in the air. You could just feel it.”
That feeling in the air might have just been sheer exhaustion. Many people were operating on very little sleep by then. During the previous night, security guards had given up on policing the campgrounds where many attendees stayed.
“They had stopped sending ambulances or cops into that area because as soon as they would enter in there they would just get pelted with rocks and mud and everything. It was kind of like a no man’s zone,” Hafner says. “So they stopped sending people in there altogether. And I believe that was where a lot of the really bad stuff happened.”
One member of Woodstock’s medical team who did venture into the campgrounds on Sunday morning was Dave Konig, an EMT.
“When you went through the campground, a little bit it reminded you of a refugee camp from the movies,” Konig says. “That there had been some sort of big battle and there’s just trash all over, things burnt all over from the night before, from whatever campfires had gone on. So you just saw that breakdown of both the structure and civility amongst people. Yeah, it was definitely palpable Sunday morning. But yet people still went to the stages.”
While most attendees were still able to maintain some semblance of sanity, Dave does remember encountering a man in the campgrounds who had clearly gone off the deep end. I say “clearly” because the man was completely naked and seemed like he was hopped up on some combination of drugs. He was so out of it that he was destroying every tent in sight.
Finally, one of Dave’s coworkers decided to intervene.
“I remember this guy stepped up to, to, this naked man,” Konig says. “He gave this guy a right hook like Muhammad Ali. He just hooked him so hard. The guy’s head snapped to the right. And then … he was like the Terminator—it just slowly turned back and then he looked at the guy who had just hit him and he was just like, ‘Rawr!’ And … everybody just tackled him at that point. We tackled him. We got him restrained, sedated, and brought him in.”
The rising tension was getting to MTV’s Holmes. Festival attendees had been abusive to the music channel’s hosts and camera crews since Friday. Someone even threw a bottle of urine at TRL host Carson Daly.
By Sunday, the MTV contingent was thoroughly rattled.
“Even before the rioting—that’s a fun way to start a sentence, even before the rioting—it seemed like this was not going to be remembered as a successful festival,” says Holmes. “When we got back to the Air Force base the next day, all anybody was talking about was how scared they were the night before. A lot of the cameramen and the production people were up in this tower that, like, could have been brought down like a scene from Game of Thrones in the middle of the show. People were understandably a little nervous that Sunday.”
That tension boiled over during a press conference in the afternoon. Someone from MTV confronted Woodstock ’99 promoter John Scher over the festival’s failure to control the most violent attendees:
“MTV News was forced to get off of home base, we felt it was too dangerous,” the reporter said. There were people throwing glass bottles everywhere. MTV tower people had to be evacuated.
“Calm down,” Scher responded.
“In all of the concerts I’ve seen, I have never seen anything quite so out of hand as this. It was violent, it was dangerous, it was hostile,” the reporter continued. “My question for you is why did no one from either security or the organization walk out to Fred Durst and say, ‘Man, can you ask these kids to chill?’ I talked to kids later who were petrified out there.”
The confrontation was a rare sour note for Scher at that point in the festival. As far as he and other organizers were concerned, Woodstock ’99 was going along swimmingly. All of the tensions that seemed obvious to those on the ground weren’t apparent to the people running the festival.
“Right after that, I took a walk from the press tent to the stage and this woman journalist, I can’t remember her name, but she walked and said, ‘Can we talk?’” Scher says now. “And at one point we stopped and she said, ‘This is unbelievable. This is the greatest thing. If you put this many people at any other kind of event, it never would have gone that well.’ She said it was just amazing. And then it all blew up over the next couple of hours.”
It turns out that the expectations were way out of whack. What was actually in the works was a candlelight vigil organized by an anti-gun group. By Sunday afternoon, they were handing out candles to attendees.
“And the peace candles became the kindling for the fires that became part of the riot,” says Brian Hiatt, a journalist who covered Woodstock ’99 and later did a yearlong investigation into the festival.
In his reporting, Hiatt discovered that attendees had been setting fires all over the grounds throughout the weekend. And yet nobody ever seemed to get in trouble for it.
“As they put out those fires, the attendees were already threatening to make more fire,” Hiatt says. “They said, ‘We’ll burn anything.’ The threats were, ‘You can’t stop us. If you stop us, it’ll start somewhere else.’”
As late afternoon turned into early evening, the crowd grew increasingly disgruntled and unruly. And then, one of the most popular rock bands of the era showed up on stage: Creed. At Woodstock ’99, they were received like rock royalty.
However, Creed guitarist Mark Tremonti remembers Woodstock ’99 as kind of a terrifying experience.
“Back then in ’99, we’d only been kind of a professional touring band for about two years, so I didn’t have the stage confidence that I have now,” he says. “So it was I just remember it being such a large and intimidating type of setting.”
Soon after Creed left the stage, Woodstock ’99 would descend into riots. But Tremonti can’t recall feeling any premonitions. After Creed it was time for that night’s big headliner—the Red Hot Chili Peppers. The band was riding high again that summer after years of inaction. The album Californication,which became the band’s best-selling record, came out the previous month.
Their performance was supposed to mark the festival’s triumphant climax. And the band was primed for the decadent atmosphere. No one more than Flea, who came out wearing his bass guitar … and no clothes.
Getty Images
“It seemed like they were playing very well,” Sheffield says. “It was really a beautiful Chili Peppers set. They were coming off Californication. They had the best songs of their career, and they were playing at the peak of their career. So it’s weirdly incongruous. That’s when the violence and the crowd got really, really ugly.”
After playing for about an hour, the Chili Peppers left the stage. Before they could come back for their planned encore, the chasm between the stage and the audience suddenly collapsed. John Scher himself came out to warn the audience.
“As you can see, if you look behind you, we have a bit of a problem,” he said.
The problem was a bonfire raging on the horizon. Actually, the word “bonfire” doesn’t do justice to this wild inferno. In a video posted on YouTube, it looks like a small cabin that’s been totally engulfed in flames. But in the chaotic context of Woodstock ’99, it didn’t seem out of place at first.
Even with part of the festival now on fire, the show didn’t immediately end. When the Chili Peppers came back out, singer Anthony Kiedis commented sardonically on the situation.
“Holy shit, it’s Apocalypse Now out there. Make way for the fire trucks!” he said
And then they proceeded to play a cover of “Fire” by Jimi Hendrix. I think that this was supposed to be part of the festival’s grand finale—a callback to one of the biggest stars of the original festival, coupled with the candlelight vigil that was now a full-on blaze.
One of Eater’s 15 Best New Restaurants in America in 2022, owner and chef Mona Sang closed the restaurant after construction dust at an upcoming Starbucks next door contaminated her restaurant. “Our dining room, our kitchen, and everything was covered in dust, top to bottom,” Sang says. Debris seeped into coolers and contaminated glassware. Sang says she feared that she might never reopen again, noting that a financial advisor estimated it could cost $400,000 to cover lost revenues and cleanup efforts at 6580 N. Sheridan Road.
Sang says construction workers at the neighboring business initially “brushed me off,” and continued work despite the dirt and dust that forced her to throw away $10,000 of food. She says she’s not 100 percent sure how the dust made its way from Starbucks to the restaurant. It may have been the HVAC system or through two holes in a wall between Khmai and the coffee shop. Apparently, a demising wall, a type of structure used to partition sections of a building, was put up by the university and hid the holes from Starbucks’ general contractor. The holes weren’t patched when construction began on August 12. Sang says the contractor told her that their work would not affect her business. But on August 13, she arrived to chaos.
“We couldn’t even breathe, so at that point, I told everyone just to finish up putting things away and put on a mask — I had to have my mom put on a mask, she was having a hard time breathing,” Sang says. “And then basically I was like, I cannot serve people. I cannot do this.”
Sarom Sieng and daught Mona Sang at their original restaurant in Rogers Park.Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago
She announced the closure in an Instagram post on August 14 and then went into more detail with a video shared on August 23. Now that she’s announced a reopening date, Sang says she hopes Starbucks will halt construction, or at least be considerate, while her restaurant is open. Loud construction noises have a habit of ruining any ambiance in the dining room.
No one has taken accountability for the mess with the unnamed general contractor, Starbucks, and Loyola blaming each other. Sang is caught in the middle after pursuing a fresh start with the university. The restaurateur left her original Rogers Park location near the Evanston border in late 2023 due to trouble with her landlord.
Starbucks maintains that since Loyola is the landlord it’s their responsibility to deal with Sang’s concerns. Sang has written emails and spent countless hours trying to find answers.
“Everybody is going to be pointing fingers,” Sang says. “At this point, I don’t care whose fault it is.”
Sang, who got her start with Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises, called the decision to close heartbreaking. The restaurants had only been open in the location since June, near the campus where Sang’s daughter attends college. Inside a bigger and more modern space, Sang unveiled two restaurants, a casual space similar to her original, called Khan Khmai. A second dining room housed a different menu, meant to showcase Cambodian cuisine in a more upscale manner. Just before the shutdown, the city had granted Khmai a liquor license and the restaurant had begun serving cocktails. Alcoholic drinks can be a huge revenue generator for restaurants that can help sustain them.
“I put all my hard-earned money into it — all of our savings, creating everything — so that we have just to open up this place and for like, within like, you know, less than two months,” Sang says.
Sang says Loyola was helpful during the closure, but only after she wrote a letter to Loyola CFO Wayne Magdziarz telling him that she needed assistance or her dream restaurant would permanently close. Sang says the school responded to her by offering a loan that could help her quickly reopen. The terms of the loan haven’t yet been finalized so Sang can’t say how much money she’ll borrow. She calls the money “the bare minimum” amount so she can once more serve customers. Sang will also have to dip into her personal savings to keep the restaurant afloat. Loyola did not respond to Eater’s request for comment.
The Starbucks should open sometime this fall. Last week, a Starbucks rep provided a statement on the matter.
“Starbucks is committed to being a good neighbor, and we strongly encourage all parties to find a resolution that works for everyone, so that our soon-to-be neighbor can reopen right away,” the emailed statement reads.
The juxtaposition of a small family-owned restaurant being impacted by the actions of one of the world’s biggest companies isn’t lost upon Sang. She says there’s no way Starbucks would care about her business. Regardless of whose fault it was, Sang says she’s disappointed that no one from Starbucks made contact with her: “Just reaching out and asking if there’s anything we can help you with” would have been nice, Sang says, “Just to say ‘I’m sorry this happened.’”
Khmai’s famous egg rolls.Jack X. Li/Eater Chicago
Beyond lost revenue, Sang is concerned with broken trust. She feels guilty about canceling reservations — diners had booked tables to celebrate special occasions. Workers left the restaurant needing income while the restaurant remained closed. Some of her mother’s favorite employees won’t be returning, and that’s a difficult conversation Sang had to have. Before closing, Khmai employed about 40 people. Sang says Khmai is hiring for all positions if any service workers have an interest.
On the bright side, opening day will take place on Sieng’s birthday. Though a lot of records and history were lost as they fled Pol Pot’s regime for America, Sang says she believes her mother will turn 82. Cooking Cambodian food proved therapeutic for Sieng and was one of the reasons that made Khmai special. It goes beyond the stellar egg rolls that Sang made for her church before opening her restaurant. Sang also trains workers on the history behind her dishes so they can share with diners.
Sang says when Khmai opens they’ll launch happy hour specials from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. with the hope that will help them pay off the loan. Later this fall, Khmai will also launch weekend brunch.
Starbucks’s general contractor and Sang’s restaurants shared the same insurance company. Upon learning that, Sang says she wasn’t surprised when the company denied her claim. Sang says friends have recommended attorneys, but right now she’s not pursuing a lawsuit.
“It’s not about even the money,” she says. “The reason we opened up this place was because we wanted to educate Chicago about Cambodian food. We wanted to make sure that we had a place for our community.”
Correction, Monday, September 16, 9:12 p.m.: A previous version of this story misstated that the opening day was Thursday when it is on Wednesday, September 18.
River North, especially the area surrounding Hubbard Street, is one of Downtown Chicago’s busiest neighborhoods at night. Tourists and locals alike fill the bars, clubs, and restaurants with herds weaving in and out of traffic crawling to their next destination.
The neighborhood’s latest addition is a joint venture between former Chicago Bulls star Jimmy Butler, country singer-songwriter Chase Rice, and former Chicago Bear Roquan Smith. The trio has opened the third location of Welcome to the Farm, a country music venue and club with locations in St. Petersburg, Florida and Cleveland. The celebrities are backed by Forward Hospitality Group, a Cleveland outfit that owns Good Night John Boy in West Loop. Fans of Barstool Sports may know one of the principals at Forward, Dante Deiana. Deiana’s a DJ and writer for the infamous media company.
The Bears might actually be worth watching in 2024. Probably.
Spare ribs, pulled turkey, brisket, and short ribs are on the menu.
Smoked brisket nachos
The space’s retractable roof remains.
They’ve remodeled the former Fremont, keeping the retractable roof and modernizing the space which has a stage for small concerts and room for 300. They’ll offer bottle service late into the night. But for folks into food, country music often goes well with smoked meats, and on the restaurant side they’ll serve brisket nachos, smoked chicken wings, pulled pork sandwiches (a Cuban served Miami style also uses the pork), plus spare ribs, short ribs, turkey, and sausage. Fried chicken and tenders are on the menu, as well. Forward Executive Chef Raheem Sealey debuted the menu in Florida at Drinking Pig BBQ, and now he brings his meats and treats up north.
Does this follow U.S. Flag Code? Well, the DQ sign doesn’t object.
Bowls, like this one with crispy cauliflower, are also available as lighter options.
The buttermilk-brined fried chicken sandwich.
Butler, a perennial All-Star, also played in Minnesota and Philadelphia before finding at home with the Miami Heat. He his own coffee company. He launched BIGFACE in 2020 during the pandemic, when the NBA brought all its playoff teams to Orlando, Florida to limit travel and the spread of COVID. The Bubble and its restrictions made it hard for players and coaches to find a good cup of coffee, so Butler seized the opportunity. For the first time ever, customers will be able to taste BIGFACE drinks in a restaurant setting. A news release touts “new specialty coffee products from Butler’s coffee brand BIGFACE that are available to consume while taking in the scene.”
Check out the space and some of the menu items below.
Welcome to the Farm, 15 W. Illinois Street, (312) 833-2080, open noon on weekdays, and 11 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday; kitchen open until 1 a.m.
Welcome to the Scene Report, a new column in which Eater Chicago captures the vibe of a notable Chicago restaurant at a specific moment in time.
Checking out Beity, a Fulton Market restaurant from chef Ryan Fakih, was meant to be the highlight of my week, for good reason. The Michelin Guide recently recognized the Lebanese gastronomic experience, which opened in early August after two years of anticipation in a food scene with few Middle Eastern fine dining options. The 16-course tasting menu ($165 per person) is called “Teta’s Tasting” after Fakih’s grandmother, who sends him personalized cooking videos from her home in Lebanon. And Beity means “my home” in Arabic. That’s what Fakih is trying to evoke here, the feeling of being at a loved one’s home.
The vibe: Aesthetically, Fakih’s goal of creating a homey space has been accomplished. The building used to house Michelin Bib Gourmand wine bar called Joe’s Imports. The chic 60-seat restaurant has stone walls, warm lighting supplied by brass fixtures, and archways reminiscent of classic Levantine architecture. Old classic Middle Eastern music like Palestinian Fairuz, Egyptian Amr Diab, and Western Saharan singer Mariem Hassan played in the background; it truly did feel intimate and exciting.
My friend and I went to Beity the day after Labor Day as people tried to cling to the long weekend. The 15-seat bar was packed with groups of friends and a couple lone diners, all drinking and snacking. We were the only ones in the main dining room — there’s another in the basement that gives an even more cozy, grandma’s house vibe with a fireplace — but around 7:00 p.m., the other tasting menu diners started to trickle in until the main dining room had a decent but small crowd. Around 8:15 p.m., it started to slow down, with not many customers coming in (the last seating is at 9:30 p.m.) and the bar folks beginning to leave.
The wait: Around 11:00 a.m. that same day, I tried to make a reservation and was dismayed to see Beity use Google’s reservation system — my arch-nemesis. Google told me they weren’t able to contact the restaurant to confirm my reservation and I called a couple times that afternoon with no answer.
But we decided to risk it and just show up. Thankfully, they had space for us to try their tasting menu; the night was nowhere near booked. Fortunately, Beity also uses Tock.
The drinks: I’m Muslim and don’t drink, so I asked about non-alcoholic cocktails and was disappointed that they only had two to choose from — the Jallab Spritz, with pomegranate molasses, pine nuts, soda water and rose water and the Apricot About It, with orange and rose blossom and apricot syrup, Seedlip 94 and egg white.
It’s already difficult to find non-alcoholic options, and I had hoped a Middle Eastern restaurant might be a bit more accommodating to Muslim non-drinkers. I ordered the Apricot About It, which was floral and yummy, but not very exciting. In fairness, it’s hard for me to get excited about most non-alcoholic cocktails except for the ones at Esmé, which rarely let me down, particularly this coconut vanilla cream soda with white miso foam and an accompanying umami explosion, or FRE Sparkling Brut with the alcohol centrifuged out of it, and smoked black teas that curiously smell of bacon.
The stone walls and warm lighting help the ambience.Beity/Nick Podraza
People who drink alcohol would likely have a different experience than me. Everyone at the bar seemed to be enjoying themselves. It was clear the cocktail menu and wine list were a huge draw here. My friend ordered the Clothed and Unknown; she loved it. “It’s a typical mezcal sour with added spice from the Aleppo pepper, which you taste at the end,” she described it to me. “This is my ideal sour.” On Wednesday, September 11 Michelin added Beity to its guide and described the bar as “ever-busy” and offering “a casual experience with a limited selection of snacks and thoughtful cocktails made with the likes of arak, Aleppo, and tahini.”
Most of the tasting menu diners also got a wine pairing, and they frequently told their servers how much they enjoyed the wine selection. Beity offers two wine pairings; the Beity pairing is $75 and highlights wines from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. Their Global pairing is $90 and highlights wine regions across the world, focusing on organic, biodynamic winemaking from female or family-owned winemakers.
The mezze is a star.Nylah Iqbal Muhammad/Eater Chicago
The highlights: For the food, the mezze was absolutely the star of the night. The fresh baked pita was just a revelation, and I was in complete contentment swirling it in the parsley hummus with lamb and pine nuts, and slathering za’atar crusted labneh on the bread. I’m not alone in the assessment; Michelin concurs. “Drawing on his Lebanese heritage and on family recipes, [Fakih] makes a strong impression with a mezze of parsley hummus with lamb, falafel in yogurt sauce, and generously charred pita. Such a spread shows both heart and refinement.”
Every dish was plated stunningly, and the service was impeccable. The staff gave detailed explanations of each dish and its meaning in Lebanese society and to Fakih and his family, infusing the meal with that cultural experience I had come here for. The sayadieh (a minimalist take on a fish rice dish traditionally cooked in a clay pot) was good. I liked the burst of acidity from the sumac crust on the branzino. Sayadieh is one of my favorite meals, so I was almost humming with excitement waiting for it and my main complaint was perhaps just wanting more. The koussa — stuffed squash with bulgur — was homey and delicious, with a lovely tomato broth and a delightful addition of crispy leeks on the top. And the shish barak (lamb and beef dumpling served with yogurt sauce) was dry again, with a yogurt sauce that was much too thick, but the flavors made up for it.
There were brighter spots at dessert. I loved the lemon frozen yogurt with agrumato extra virgin olive oil. The day before, I had made a plum olive oil cake with olive oil from the family farm of Hisham Khalifeh, owner of Middle East Bakery in Andersonville, in ‘Arura, Palestine, so I was feeling obsessed with olive oil desserts. This one did not disappoint, and I could have taken home a carton of it. The frozen yogurt came with a Lebanese 7 spice (a Middle Eastern blend often called baharat, meaning “seven” in Arabic) digestive cookie with chocolate and caviar. It was nice to have another burst of salt from the caviar with the ice cream.
Chicago doesn’t have many fine dining restaurants that serve Middle Eastern food.Nylah Iqbal Muhammad/Eater Chicago
The lowlights: I wanted to love Beity’s food, I really did. Overall, though, it was much more underwhelming. than I’d anticipated.
The a la carte menu (dishes ranging from $5 to $20) is really just six bar snacks and two desserts, a small offering compared to other places in the city and a deviation from the Beity’s description of it as “a more casual dining experience.” You would not be able to get a full meal from this menu without ordering at least three dishes per person, which would be fine if there were more options. We ordered makanek, a Lebanese beef and lamb sausage with pomegranate molasses. As a lifelong seafood fiend, I also wanted the samak bizri, fried sardines with finger limes and lemon tarator (a Lebanese tahini sauce) tartar, but they were out that night.
The makanek was flavorful but much too dry. Without dipping each bite into pomegranate molasses, I couldn’t have enjoyed them very much, and I firmly believe that when a sausage requires a dipping sauce to taste good, then it’s not a good sausage.
The moghrabieh, Fakih’s deconstructed take on a Lebanese stew of semolina dough pearls of the same name, chickpeas, onions, and chicken was also incredibly dry and my least favorite dish of the night. The chicken had every bit of juice that once existed cooked out of it, and was stuffed into a pastry that was visibly cracking from lack of moisture and fat. The best part of that course was the charred onion and the cinnamon jus, but I only ate a couple bites of the chicken-filled pastry.
Even on after Labor Day weekend, Beity had diners.Nylah Iqbal Muhammad/Eater Chicago
The verdict: Beity’s presence on the Chicago food scene is culturally necessary; we need more fine dining options from Middle Eastern countries — honestly, almost every place that’s not Western European is grossly underrepresented in the fine dining scene. Maman Zari in Albany Park, which serves a Persian tasting menu, opened in 2023. It felt incredible to eat the Levantine dishes I love surrounded by vibrant music in a beautiful space with a calm vibe.The bar vibes are so immaculate, I would go back in a heartbeat to have a non-alcoholic cocktail, that heavenly fresh pita and labneh, and to try the samak bizri. I’ve got a feeling I would have gobbled those sardines down at a frightening speed.
However, I wouldn’t do the tasting menu again. At $165 per person (not including the automatically added 20 percent gratuity and 3 percent service charge), it was simply too expensive for the quality of food we received. The elements of a stunning Lebanese tasting menu are all there, but the execution wasn’t what I was expecting.
It doesn’t make me feel great that I didn’t fall head over heels with Beity’s tasting menu. I love Arab food, and it’s hard when people put their culture, their family, their soul into a curated experience menu and it doesn’t stun you. I wanted to be entranced by everything, but instead I found most of the dishes to be lackluster, especially for the price.
Although I was let down by the tasting menu, I have grace and high hopes for the future of Beity. Its bar program seems incredible, and the mezze (especially the pita) is delicious. It only opened a mere month ago, so I’m hoping that with more time, the tasting menu will mature to tell the story it wants to tell. They already have a clarity of mission, values, and culture. The food just needs to catch up.
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25652830/MilkBarCerealMilk_01_Arcangeli.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646441/54022611308_a02855073f_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646456/54022715914_37d8c6aeab_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646455/54021479772_a30e8b90f4_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646454/54022376471_b0961ea23e_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646453/54022615518_b153472330_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646452/54021479892_735fea26d8_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646431/54022824440_d7da1c5551_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646469/54022612498_d554a2933d_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646434/54022824275_2d81e39646_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646430/54022612678_b0b252ad6e_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646432/54022712589_c9f88bf133_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646433/54022611978_ce042c1334_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646436/54021476602_b1eb8fb483_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646435/54022612163_b296c56165_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646437/54021476357_acb5056bcb_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646446/54021475662_6f52e5e56e_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646445/54022823225_e6667cf3a9_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646443/54022611713_34f72541e9_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646444/54022712109_7de87c4f60_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646442/54022712104_269f98c02e_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646440/54022823465_88887a8590_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646438/54022611558_1e2a920a41_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646439/54022611898_7c3492f48c_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25646448/54022611438_fbc3b61850_h.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25631345/Credit_to_Alexa_Vaicaitis__3_.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25628400/SummerHouse_Rosh_Hashanah_Menu_0029__1_.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25628010/DSC05450.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25628316/Dan_Bing.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25626254/Loaf_Lounge_Marbled_Rye_Wade_Hall.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25626265/eggplant_cutlet.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25626263/PXL_20240409_190702356.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/23921169/52244398958_47205430b7_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619299/4h3a0088_53983797949_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619302/4h3a0121_53983797724_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619314/4h3a9944_53983693463_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619310/4h3a9939_53983693548_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619300/4h3a0102_53983483231_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619301/4h3a0117_53983483126_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619316/4h3a9966_53983881385_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619303/4h3a0141_53983726333_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619296/4h3a0008_53983483511_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619298/4h3a0047_53983726738_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619297/4h3a0032_53983798189_o.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25617718/IMG_5928.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619426/IMG_5960.jpg)
:format(webp):no_upscale()/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_asset/file/25619429/IMG_5935.jpg)