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  • Peacock Needs More Hits. Could Halloween Horror Boost Its Catalog?

    Peacock Needs More Hits. Could Halloween Horror Boost Its Catalog?

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    When Peacock became the streaming hub for the Tokyo Olympics in 2021, it didn’t quite go to plan, with users complaining about limited viewing options and a glitchy interface. It was, to quote NBCUniversal Media Group chairman Mark Lazarus, a “big digital middle finger,” as well as a microcosm of Peacock’s early days: a streamer that had yet to find its footing. Fast-forward to the summer of 2024, and Peacock’s coverage of the Paris Olympics was a rousing success on multiple fronts. For one, you could watch any event on the platform in addition to Gold Zone, which was basically the Olympian equivalent of NFL RedZone. More importantly, Peacock’s viewership rose by one-third in July, the highest growth for any streaming service that month. By any measure, Peacock delivered on the big stage.

    But while the streamer mastered its Olympics coverage, it’s not the kind of thing that’ll necessarily keep subscribers around for the long haul. (Some shrewd users might pay for Peacock for the duration of the Olympics, cancel it, and repeat the cycle in four years’ time.) Instead, what’ll really give Peacock a foothold in the Streaming Wars is a consistent stream (pun unintended) of must-watch programming. Depending on what you’re looking for, Peacock already has something to offer. On the sports front, NFL fans have access to Sunday Night Football, while soccer obsessives like myself get their Premier League fix on the platform. (Soon, Peacock will add NBA coverage to its sports catalog, which, unfortunately, comes at the expense of Inside the NBA, a show so sacred it should be protected in the Constitution.) There’s also plenty of reality TV to savor, from the Bravoverse to buzzy originals like The Traitors. But there’s one area where Peacock continues to flounder: scripted series.

    With the notable exception of Poker Face, the Peabody- and Emmy-nominated crime comedy from Rian Johnson, Peacock hasn’t created many scripted dramas capable of cutting through the noise. Some of its prestige efforts have simply been bad (Apples Never Fall), premiered at a time when subscribers’ attention was pulled elsewhere (Those About to Die coincided with the Paris Olympics), or, worse yet, were pretty good but never found a sizable audience (The Resort). It’s harder than ever for original shows to command attention when they aren’t available on Netflix or attached to big-name IP, so this isn’t a Peacock-specific problem. Still, it doesn’t bode well for future series, however good, if their popularity on the service feels so capped.

    Could capitalizing on spooky season change things for the better? From classic Universal monster movies—and their modern remakes—to Blumhouse hits like Get Out and M3GAN, NBCUniversal has long been a reliable home for horror. (Not to mention, there are enough horror fanatics out there to support a niche streamer catering to their interests, so demand for this stuff exists.) If the majority of Peacock’s prestige swings aren’t connecting with audiences, perhaps genre projects can move the needle.

    In the past two weeks, Peacock has put that theory to the test by premiering two high-profile horror series, Teacup and Hysteria!, which scratch a different itch within the genre. In the James Wan–produced Teacup, a ranch in rural Georgia becomes enveloped in a mysterious, invisible force field that traps its unlucky inhabitants, who soon realize they aren’t alone in the woods. No less an authority than Stephen King has praised Teacup as “all killer, no filler.” Meanwhile, Hysteria! takes place in small-town Michigan at the height of the ’80s satanic panic, as a high school heavy metal band exploits the cultural moment to rebrand and gain more followers—even if it puts a target on their back. (The series also boasts an ’80s horror icon in The Evil Dead’s Bruce Campbell, who plays the town’s police chief investigating a teenage boy’s disappearance.)

    Between the two shows, Teacup is the one that holds plenty of promise. The mystery-box component of having characters trapped by sinister forces is a compelling hook, but the key to Teacup’s longevity is whether the biggest questions surrounding the series will deliver satisfying answers. Without giving too much away, I actually think Teacup would generate more buzz if audiences knew more about what iconic horror properties the show was aping and how they fit into the larger story, which is largely absent from the marketing. Long story short: If the idea of John Carpenter’s The Thing taking place on a rural farm sounds intriguing, Teacup is well worth a watch. (As one would expect given the Carpenter comp, Teacup boasts some gnarly body horror for all you sickos out there.)

    Of course, The Thing is a tantalizing premise for single-location horror, but that makes it a better fit for a feature film rather than an eight-episode season of television. Teacup also has plenty of room for improvement, namely that its setup is far more interesting than any of the one-dimensional characters, who are mostly elevated by a talented ensemble that includes Yvonne Strahovski, Chaske Spencer, Scott Speedman, and Rob Morgan. The good news is that, should Teacup be renewed, its second season promises to have much bigger aspirations—expanding its scope to something more in the vein of Invasion of the Body Snatchers. But a series like Teacup needs an engaged audience to go along for the ride; a mystery box might not have a future if nobody wants to unpack it in the first place.

    Whereas Teacup’s biggest problem is that the show’s most marketable elements are withheld from viewers, Hysteria! fully embraces its similarities to the pop culture properties that inspired it. With an emphasis on punk teens and how a community views them while satanic panic is in the air, Hysteria! feels like Stranger Things’ Eddie Munson subplot stretched out to the length of a series, especially when it’s implied there’s a demonic presence making its way into the town. (That said, the sinister vibes are less Upside Down and more upside-down crosses.)

    Unfortunately, Hysteria! can’t quite decide what type of show it wants to be; story lines alternate between teens forming a satanic cult as a marketing stunt for their heavy metal band (fun!), a religious zealot dialing up paranoia among the locals (one-note and tiresome), and a mother (played by Julie Bowen) who fears something evil has rooted itself in her home (underdeveloped). For a horror series, Hysteria! also commits the cardinal sin of never being all that scary, even when characters are supposedly possessed or buried alive in a satanic ritual. It’s all a bit too unfocused—mildly creepy in one scene, mildly amusing in the next, always unsure of itself. As a result, Hysteria! is resigned to a fate that’s arguably worse than simply being bad: It’s forgettable.

    Forgettable isn’t what Peacock needs out of an original series, especially when almost every streamer on the market can boast some brand-defining hits. For some subscribers, Peacock is already filling a need, whether it’s through an impressive collection of reality TV or live sports offerings unique to its platform. (As long as NBCUniversal holds the rights to the Premier League, I’ll remain a loyal user.) But if Peacock is going to maintain a steady level of interest amid so many options, it can’t just rely on special events like the Olympics that come and go in a flash. Peacock is still making some headway in the Streaming Wars, but when it comes to scripted series, the service could stand to ruffle more feathers.

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    Miles Surrey

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  • Chicago’s Best Restaurants to Celebrate Diwali

    Chicago’s Best Restaurants to Celebrate Diwali

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    Diwali is a South Asian holiday with numerous food traditions, a time to celebrate for Hindus, Buddhists, Sikhs, and Jains. However, the festival of lights has become a global phenomenon, observed in many countries. Last year, New York declared it a state holiday, giving public school students a day off starting in 2024.

    This year, Diwali — also known as Divali or Deepavali — starts on Thursday, October 31.

    Awareness of the holiday has crossed over to Chicago’s South Asian restaurants, providing a way for folks of all backgrounds to celebrate. Below are some of the more notable Diwali menus and events held at Chicago restaurants. Eater Chicago also has a South Asian restaurant guide for more ways to celebrate.

    Basant, Wednesday, October 23 through November 3.

    This North Center restaurant has pushed the boundaries for what to expect from an Indian restaurant not located along Devon or in downtown Chicago. Neighborhood Indian restaurants often trot out the same generic Northern Indian menus, but not Basant.

    For two weeks, Basant is offering a special a la carte menu and will decorate its space with diyas painted by workers, and a hand-drawn rangoli. The menu includes raj kachori chaat; mango duck kebabs with spicy white sauce & chili crisps; “mini-thali” with raswale alu, masala puri, halwa, and boondi raita; seafood khichdi; and lamb shank dum biryani. Reservations are available via OpenTable.

    Basant’s lamb shank dum biryani.
    Basant

    Sifr, Sunday, November 3

    While not serving traditional Indian food, Sifr, a Middle Eastern restaurant boosts a menu from James Beard nominated Sujan Sarkar and culinary director Sahil Sethi. Sarkar’s Indienne is Chicago’s only Michelin-starred Indian restaurant.

    Sifr’s holiday offerings consist of a four-course prix fixe. Items include dahi bhalla papdi chaat, papad with pindi chloe, baigan bharta, tamatar ki chaat, sliced onion, aloo tuk, and a mint and cilantro chutney. Entrees include paneer pasanda with lababdar gravy, jackfruit kofta with kadai gravy, butter chicken, or goat do pyaza. Reservations and $75 tickets are available on OpenTable. Sifr is also offering reservations upstairs on its enclosed patio.

    Sifr’s dining room.

    Sifr is celebrating Diwali.
    Sifr

    Patel Brothers

    Patel Brothers, the iconic South Asian supermarket chain, launched its Patel’s Fresh Kitchen about three years ago, coinciding with the opening of its new store along Devon. The goal was to serve younger customers who don’t know how to cook but still wanted a taste of home. Fresh Kitchen is 100 percent vegetarian, specializing in flatbreads — there are 20 different types of paratha. For folks throwing Diwali parties at home, they can email the bakery manager at their local Patel Brothers — find the emails on the chain’s website — to order parathas, samosas, and more.

    Umami From Scratch, October 23 to 31 for pickups.

    Divs Ray has been running Umami From Scratch, a micro bakery that takes online orders, since 2020. Her snacks are creative, blending traditions from different regions together with modern baking techniques. She’s launched a special Diwali menu with specials like rose-lime mooncakes, mithai canele, muhallahbiah with poached red fruits and kataifi, and chaat masala sweet potato focaccia. Order online and pick up October 23 to 31.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • The 2024 United Center Food Preview For Bulls and Blackhawks Fans

    The 2024 United Center Food Preview For Bulls and Blackhawks Fans

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    The United Center opened on August 18, 1994, with WWF Summer Slam (not yet WWE). Three decades later, the Near West Side arena has hosted hundreds of concerts, a pair of Democratic National Conventions, and highs and lows from 30 years of the Chicago Blackhawks and Bulls.

    The Blackhawks have already played four games on the road and the team’s home opener is on Thursday against the San Jose Sharks. The Bulls remain in preseason mode, kicking off the regular season on the road on October 23 in New Orleans. The team’s home opener is on October 26 against the Oklahoma City Thunder. Excitement for both squads has been tepid with a mix of low fan expectations and a sluggish rollout for the teams’ new TV home. Even Blackhawks’ chairman Danny Wirtz is disappointed.

    On the club level, Rocky’s Bar — named for former Blackhawk owner Rocky Wirtz — is home to the United Center’s best cocktails.

    That backdrop explains why this week’s media food preview lacked electricity. There was no Campfire Milkshake — at least not yet, fans know surprises can emerge during the season. This was a different feeling compared to the atmosphere at Solider Field where the Bears, thanks to exciting new players, have fans — and chefs excited. Levy, which handles concessions for Soldier Field and United Center, unveiled bigger changes along the lakefront, trying to make a good impression in its first year working with the Bears.

    Bulls fans know the franchise loves its ‘90s history, and with the arena’s 30th birthday, nostalgia once again was the primary attraction. Fans in the 300 level, the arena’s upper level, are usually afterthoughts with few new offerings. It’s the same story this year with a double Chicago dog the only new item. Find the double dog in Sections 104 and 222 — and yes, in 305 and 322.

    Away from the nosebleeds, there are a few new noteworthy items.

    The prime rib sandwich was an invention of Levy executive chef Scott Perez. Served on an onion roll with fried onion strings, Perez says he wanted an item that would draw more people to MadWest, the concession stand near Section 105 near the Michael Jordan statue. The space debuted in 2018 with a focus on Dark Matter Coffee and beer.

    A prime rib sandwich with fried onions and potato chips on the side.

    The prime rib sandwich available at MadWest.

    Six corned beef sandwiches with chips.

    Corned beef sandwiches are another draw at MadWest.

    Honey Butter Fried Chicken has been a staple at the United Center, as the Avondale restaurant — which earlier this year opened a location in suburban Glencoe — arrived as an arena vendor in 2018. Co-owner and chef Christine Cikowski says they’ve altered their UC recipe, switching from chicken thigh to all-white breast. They’ve also altered the breading hoping that the tenders stay crispier. Find them in Section 115.

    Two portions of chicken tenders with sauces and biscuits.

    Honey Butter Fried Chicken has a new chicken tender recipe.

    Chips and a cup of green salsa.

    This Little Goat Taqueria has an avocado salsa with chili lime crunch seasoning, pickled peppers, and queso fresco.

    While Levy and Boka Restaurant Group have talked about expanding their footprint into Chicago’s stadiums, there’s no news about the United Center. In August, they debuted GG’s Chicken Shop inside Soldier Field — a satellite location of chef Lee Wolen’s Lakeview restaurant — and Tavern Burger from chef Chris Pandel. Longtime Boka partner Stephanie Izard’s That Little Goat Taqueria is independent of the group and has locations inside the United Center in Sections 114 and 230.

    A sliced slab of prime rib.

    Several burgers.

    Queenie’s Supper Club is only open during events.

    A bartender pouring beer into a hockey stick glass.

    This beer stick holds 24 ounces and should launch mid-season.

    Queenies Supper Club, the restaurant accessible via Gate 4, is only open during event days. They’re leaning into prime rib, king ora salmon, and big burgers.

    There’s also the case of the beer sticks, something popularized earlier this year by the Carolina Hurricanes at the Lenova Center (which isn’t a Levy venue). Eventually — perhaps around midseason — Blackhawk fans will be able to purchase a clear 24-ounce souvenir receptacle shaped like a hockey stick that can be filled with beer. Levy is still figuring out the logistics — pricing, what beers to fill, and where it will be available. Last season, beer sticks cost $10 in Carolina. Judging by the cost of living difference in Chicago, the novelty will cost Hawks fans a little more.

    The Italian beef is new this year and available at Giordano’s at Section 120. The giardiniera is housemade.

    1901 West Madison Street, , IL 60612

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Michelin Will Announce Chicago, D.C., and New York Stars in December

    Michelin Will Announce Chicago, D.C., and New York Stars in December

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    Chicago restaurants must wait until December to learn if they’ve earned a Michelin star. Like last year, the tire guide will bundle announcements for Chicago, New York, and Washington, D.C. at a private party held in New York.

    Michelin will announce on Monday, December 9 at a ceremony held at the Glasshouse in New York. Last year’s announcement came in November, and the big news was Smyth joined Alinea as the only two restaurants in Chicago will a full three Michelin stars. Daisies also received a Green Star which recognizes a commitment to environmental sustainability. There is some irony as the tire company created the guide to encourage car travel.

    Twenty-one Chicago restaurants have Michelin stars, one of the highest restaurant honors. But in recent years, local tourism boards have been attracting the Michelin Guide to their cities to help boost travel. Some have questioned whether this waters down the honor. The bib gourmands, a designation that recognizes value for the money, will also be announced.

    The guide has been rating restaurants in Chicago since 2011. The guide arrived in New York in 2005 and in D.C. in 2017. The guide is in eight American markets: California, Florida (Miami/Orlando/Tampa), Colorado, Atlanta, and Texas. It’s also in Toronto, Vancouver, Mexico, and Quebec.

    A fundraiser for Northern Thailand

    Northern Thailand has been in crisis with floods and typhoons. The government ordered evacuations, shelters were set up, and hundreds of animals needed rescue. Waters have since receded, but aid is still required. NaKorn, an upscale restaurant that opened in 2016 in suburban Evanston, is holding a fundraiser dinner to help the community. Proceeds from the Sunday, October 20 event will benefit underprivileged children and families in Thailand. There are two seatings and reservations are available via OpenTable.

    Goose Island’s Rare Day

    Goose Island Beer Co. won’t hold its annual Propreitor’s Day, an event that celebrates the Chicago-area-only release of a Bourbon County Brand Stout variant. It’s the one packaged in a blue box and the flavors change every year. Instead, Goose has unveiled a replacement centering around another variant: Rare Day. The event will take place on Saturday, November 16 at the Goose Island Barrel House. There were two sessions, but the early session has already sold out. Tickets for the $160 event are on sale via Oznr.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Evanston’s Temperance Beer Announces Closing Date

    Evanston’s Temperance Beer Announces Closing Date

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    Evanston didn’t have a brewery before Temperance Beer Co. arrived at the end of 2013. The suburb’s first brewery was a historic moment, and the taproom quickly became one of the city’s finest with hits like Might Meets Right and Gatecrasher IPA. Temperance represented the rising popularity of the craft beer movement when home brewers crowded taprooms and stood in long lines for the latest release.

    But times have changed. On Tuesday afternoon, Temperance founder Josh Gilbert announced the brewery would close on Sunday, October 27. All brewery tours had been canceled with refunds on their way. In a newsletter blast and Instagram post, Gilbert calls the craft beer world “barely recognizable” compared to a decade ago. “It’s difficult to even imagine that kind of excitement for a new brewery launch these days,” he writes.

    Drinking habits have changed, and many craft beer fans have grown older, gravitating toward bourbon, non-alcoholic drinks, or even spiked seltzers Beer can be filling. Beyond beverages, the food scene has also shifted. Food trucks were a staple at Temperance, but the excitement for mobile eating has also snarled in this age of food delivery apps.

    Temperance head brewer Claudia Jendron helped open the brewery in 2013 and was one of the few women in the industry. The taproom gave Evanston some credibility in the food and drink scene. Evanston has a long history of being a dry town. Customers, including Block Club Chicago co-founder Shamus Toomey and former Tribune beer and spirits writer Josh Noel, expressed their condolences with comments under the brewery’s Instagram post.

    Now, fans have 12 days to relive the glory days before Temperance closes.

    Temperance Beer Co., 2000 Dempster Street, Evanston, closing Sunday, October 27.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • A Dominican Legend Known for Her Fried Chicken Rises Once More

    A Dominican Legend Known for Her Fried Chicken Rises Once More

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    At around noon on a Friday, chef and owner Miriam Montes de Oca hurried out of her restaurant, Morena’s Kitchen, and headed to Rush Medical Center. Her 26-year-old daughter, Tatiana, was giving birth to Montes de Oca’s second granddaughter, Hailey. “I ran to the hospital because Tatiana was supposed to have the baby quickly, but [Hailey] didn’t come until the next day at 8 o’clock in the morning,” she says.

    Hailey’s arrival coincided with the revival of Morena’s, as Montes de Oca had recently reopened the restaurant at a new location, 3758 W. North Avenue in Humboldt Park. She shut down the original restaurant — located about three miles west in Belmont Cragin at 5054 W. Armitage Avenue — three years ago.

    Welcoming a new granddaughter while restarting her business has been a whirlwind for Montes de Oca, but she’s enjoying the journey. Before the closure, for five years, Morena’s Kitchen served Dominican staples like sancocho, oxtail, and red snapper — and Montes de Oca’s famous Dominican fried chicken.

    Holding a piece of fried chicken.

    The chicken is legendary.

    The spice blend for that chicken hasn’t changed, and Montes de Oca guards the recipe with absolute secrecy. Diners can also taste that it’s been cleaned in the Caribbean way, with citrus or vinegar. Heated online debates over whether you should wash meat — the CDC says no, almost everyone with melanin says yes — fail to realize that most Caribbean, Asian, and African meat-washing techniques serve mainly as a brine to remove the gamy taste meat can often have, giving the dish a clarity of flavor, which Morena’s chicken — and their oxtail and lengua — have. “That fried chicken can’t go nowhere,” Montes de Oca laughs. “People love it the most.”

    Montes de Oca closed her restaurant in January 2021 during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. “It was a hard time. There was not enough money coming in, so I preferred to close down before it was too late for me,” she says.

    A woman warming tortillas on a black flattop.

    Miriam Montes de Oca cooking in her new kitchen.

    Miriam Montes de Oca smiles while cooking in a kitchen using a pan on a gas range.

    Miriam Montes de Oca puts a plate of food on a steel case.

    She took a job with United Airlines at O’Hare International Airport to pay bills. With the extra time not running a restaurant, she was able to help Tatiana with her 2-year-old daughter, Catalina. Free airplane tickets also allowed Montes de Oca to go back to the Dominican Republic three to four times a year after not having been home for nearly two decades. “I was without my country for 16 years,” she says. “And when I closed the restaurant, I went back and I fell in love with my country again.”

    Montes de Oca got the opportunity to reopen Morena’s when Vladimir Rodriguez, the owner of a Mexican bar and restaurant called La Leña, found he could no longer handle the expenses. He offered the restaurant space to Montes de Oca, and she didn’t hesitate. Rodriguez kept the bar half of the space, connected to Morena’s through a sliding door that’s usually open with customers easily moving through both businesses. The partnership has been good. “We work together,” Montes de Oca says. “The clients that drink over there, they ask for my food. And when people finish eating here, they say, ‘Oh you got a bar next door?’ and I tell them to go ahead and take a look.”

    Still, when customers search Morena’s by name online, the old location still pops up instead of the new North Avenue location and La Leña comes up when searching by address. “I need to change it,” Montes de Oca says. “Everybody is confused. They ask me, ‘Are you La Leña’s, are you Morena’s? Are you Mexican, are you Dominican?

    A shrimp cocktail, a bottle of red soda, rice, and more on square plates on a table.

    Seafood and other Dominican specialties are available.

    The best way to find the address, hours, and special announcements is through Facebook and Instagram — Morena’s regulars will find the menu unchanged, with a notable new section. Although firmly a Dominican restaurant, Montes de Oca retained some Mexican holdovers from La Leña’s menu like tortas, tacos, burritos, and chilaquiles. She notes that keeping the items helps La Leña’s old diners with the transition, but they also sell extremely well because she offers less commonly served meats like tripe and lengua.

    Business has been good overall, with some ebbs and flows, Montes de Oca says. “To be out of the business for almost three years? I can’t complain.”

    Many of Morena’s customers have transitioned to the new location seamlessly, either through word of mouth, Facebook posts, or walking by and doing a double take when they see the old sign. “Three days ago, one customer came and said ‘More, I thought somebody stole your name!’ I was like, ‘No, it’s me, I’m here. I’m back in business.’”

    On weekends, Montes de Oca serves Dominican dishes like chivo guisado and rabo guisado (Dominican-style braised goat and oxtail). It can be hard to source specifically Dominican ingredients — especially Dominican oregano, which has a stronger flavor — but Montes de Oca gets many ingredients from a Dominican Chicagoan who brings it back from trips to New York. The restaurant also stocks traditional Dominican sodas, like the brand Country Club, in addition to more familiar brands like Mexican Jarritos.

    Other options included mondongo, or tripe stew, and sancocho, a Latin American meat and vegetable stew widely thought to have roots in the Afro Latino community, whose ancestors were forcibly brought to the Caribbean, South and Central America by Spanish enslavers. Montes de Oca is Afro Latina, hence the name of the restaurant and Montes de Oca’s nickname, More. Morena means “dark-skinned” in Spanish, often referring to Latinas of African descent. As for the nickname, Montes de Oca says it’s a positive thing, although many people ask whether it bothers her. “I say no. It’s sweet, not the bad way. And it’s true. I am Morena, and it’s my nickname in the Dominican Republic, too.”

    Cooked shrimp stuffed in a veggie.

    One of the more distinctive Dominican staples available at the restaurant every day are los tres golpes, meaning “the three hits” in Dominican Spanish — fried Dominican salami, fried eggs, and some fried cheese. Montes de Oca eats it with mangú, a cousin of Puerto Rican mofongo made from boiled plantain that she squishes like mashed potatoes.

    Montes de Oca tops tres golpes with a savory onion gravy cooked in oil and vinegar. The rotisserie chicken — which fans of Peruvian pollo a la brasa will find familiar. Served with plain white rice, it’s her oldest granddaughter Catalina’s favorite meal.

    Morena’s presence on the Chicago food scene is a relief for Dominicans in the city and surrounding suburbs since there isn’t much Dominican — or Caribbean — food in Chicago. Puerto Rican restaurants abound due to the large community here, but if you’re of Virgin Islander and Trinidadian descent like me, Guyanese, Bahamian, Haitian, or Dominican, the options get fewer and fewer. The Caribbean still maintains a presence on the dining scene in Chicago; Cafe Trinidad, 14 Parish, and Garifuna Flava are all great places.

    Montes de Oca says one of her customers recently came in and excitedly told her about a Haitian restaurant near O’Hare, called Kizin Creole. “I told him, ‘For real, they got Haitian food?’ And I want to go try it because when I’m not here, I want to try something different. I like to go out with my kids and eat different foods and support other businesses because right now we need to help each other.”

    A seafood cocktail with shrimp and octopus tendrils.

    Chicago lacks the abundance of choice diners might find in cities like New York, Miami, or Toronto, where clusters of Caribbean restaurants are within walking distance of each other. Montes de Oca says she would love for the options to diversify for Caribbean diners in Chicago and fans of our food, and she sees herself as part of that push.

    Montes de Oca, who has lived in Chicago for 27 years, says she sees that changing in the coming years as New York, home to one of the country’s biggest Dominican communities, gets increasingly expensive. “Lots of Puerto Ricans and Dominicans are coming [to Chicago] from New York now. I have family in who are like ‘I can’t afford the city anymore, I’ve got to go.’”

    Even though the Dominican community here in Chicago is small, Montes de Oca says they find a home with many of the Puerto Ricans in the city, both being from Spanish-speaking Caribbean countries, with African, Indigenous, and European influences, as well as other bursts of migration from South and East Asia and the Middle East. “We’re brothers and sisters. We eat the same thing with different names,” Montes de Oca says. For example, she’s happy to make jibaritos — a sandwich of meat in between huge slices of smashed and fried plantains — for her Puerto Rican customers, who represent a large portion of her customer base. Jibaritos are one of those Chicago staples that have become famous because of the Puerto Rican community here. But, it’s also a Dominican food — Montes de Oca says they call it patacón.

    A fried fish on a plated with salad and fried plantains.

    Whole-fried fish.

    Roasted chicken topped with red onion and red peppers, with a mound of rice and salad.

    There’s more than fried chicken.

    In some ways, Montes de Oca feels her new location is a seamless transition. In other ways, she feels like she’s starting over from scratch. Food costs were a particular shock, and she’s learning how to deal with inflation.

    “When I went to the grocery store [three years ago], my plantain was like $35. Now it’s $47,” she says. “My oil was $19. Now it’s $30.”

    Morena’s stays open much longer — until midnight most days, and 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday — than most restaurants in the city. That’s despite restaurants rolling back hours during the pandemic due to labor and decreased business. At Morena’s, the longer hours are also an attempt to enliven the Caribbean dining scene here in Chicago.

    Chicago’s restrictions don’t support street or late-night food culture, between infrastructure that’s hostile to walkers and those who take public transit, cultural differences that encourage fast eating, and lowered profits coupled with rising food costs. But Montes de Oca is giving it a go.

    “I need to make this happen, and my people are happy with that because they say, after 7 o’clock, you don’t find any Caribbean food open,” she says. “You can’t find food from us.”

    Morena’s Kitchen, 3758 W. North Avenue

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    Nylah Iqbal Muhammad

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  • An Agave Lounge With a Mexican Tasting Menu Will Come to Wicker Park

    An Agave Lounge With a Mexican Tasting Menu Will Come to Wicker Park

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    An agave lounge with a six-course small bites menu paired with cocktails should debut later this month in Wicker Park. Botánero is from chef and partner Yanitzin “Yani” Sanchez and partner Richard Vallejo. It’s replacing Caspian, a casual Mediterranean restaurant at 1413 N. Ashland Avenue, according to a news release.

    Botánero’s special tasting menu will be offered on Wednesdays, kicking off on October 23. There will be two seatings daily and reservations will be taken via Tock. Besides the tasting menu look for tamales, quesadillas, and tlayudas made with tortillas derived from heirloom corn from Mexico.

    Typically served at bars with drinks, botanas are small plates, kind of a Mexican counterpart to Spanish tapas. Ownership hopes the taco de negro asada with prime beef ribeye, queso asadero, mojo negro, onion-cilantro gremolata, and roasted marrow bone becomes a signature.

    Weekend brunch should include a bottomless option for unlimited house margaritas, micheladas, mimosas, and spritzers.

    Chef Yani and Vallejo are frequent collaborators. They teamed on Taquizo, a casual taqueria that opened in 2022 and has since closed in Wicker Park. Taquizo was a reboot of Las Palmas. There are also two shuttered suburban Mexican spots: Mercado Cocina in suburban Glenview and Cine in Hinsdale.

    Sanchez’s credits also include Sabor Saveur in Wicker Park. That space would become Takito, and she continued as a consultant for the burgeoning group that expanded into West Loop and Lincoln Park.

    While not the sole focus of Botánero, Mexican tasting menus are still a rarity in Chicago, with Topolobampo and Tzuco in River North being the most prominent. In recent years, taco-tasting menus at places like Cariño and Taqueria Chingon have soared.

    Botánero, 1413 W. Ashland Avenue, planned for an October opening; Wednesday tasting menu launches on October 23, brunch launches on November 9.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • For Halloween, Pretty Cool Ice Cream Will Transform Into a Scoop Shop

    For Halloween, Pretty Cool Ice Cream Will Transform Into a Scoop Shop

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    Before Dana Salls Cree opened Pretty Cool Ice Cream six years ago in Logan Square, she assumed she’d open a scoop shop. As pastry chef at One Off Hospitality Group’s Publican and Blackbird, she became well known for her unique ice cream flavors. She turned that passion into a book, Hello, My Name Is Ice Cream: The Art and Science of the Scoop, published in 2017.

    Her plans for a scoop shop changed after a pastry chef friend made machines that make ice cream bars available for sale. Salls Cree found herself attracted to this “new uncharted creative territory.” She turned her attention toward specializing in handmade ice cream bars, ice pops, and other creative cold treats

    “I went in thinking I would open a scoop shop that brought the recipes in my book to life and instead I found the door to Pretty Cool,” says Salls Cree.

    Halloween presents a unique opportunity for Pretty Cool Ice Cream. Restaurants have embraced Halloween costumes in recent years. Le Bouchon, the beloved Bucktown French restaurant, dressed up as the Olive Garden last year. In 2015, Wieners Circle in Lincoln Park dressed up as McDowell’s, a fictional McDonald’s rip-off featured in the movie Coming to America.

    For the holiday, Salls Cree will dress her two pop shops up as scoop shops inspired by her book. On Saturday, October 26, and Sunday, October 27, Salls Cree will fulfill her dream when Pretty Cool’s two locations offer eight flavors of ice cream chosen from recipes in her book. To get into the Halloween spirit, the Pretty Cool employees will be dressing up in Hello My Name Is Ice Cream shirts. Pops will still be available for those two days.

    “Every Halloween we rename ourselves something spooky and offer holiday treats, but I always thought it would be cool if the shop itself dressed up in costume,” Salls Cree says. “Well, what does an ice cream shop dress up as? A different ice cream shop.”

    While a long time in the making, this isn’t the first time Salls Cree has offered her ice cream for sale. Back when she worked for One Off, she would make a limited series of Hello My Name Is Ice Cream pints and sell them at Publican Quality Meats. The Fulton Market cafe and butcher shop was where a lot of the recipes for her book were developed.

    It was also around that time that Salls Cree discovered she had celiac disease, a diagnosis that put her pastry-making career in jeopardy. While she admits she probably always had the disease, it was when she started sharing kitchen space with the company’s bread-making production that her symptoms became intense. “It was the first time I was in the flour cloud that a bread bakery generates and that pushed me over the edge,” she says. There was a silver lining. “It also pushed me into ice cream.”

    All the Halloween ice creams are gluten-free as are the cones. Salls Cree and her team sat down with her book to talk about what flavors they wanted to make, focusing on composed scoops — “the real showstoppers,” she says, rather than the single flavor recipes. Once the eight flavors were chosen — mint chocolate chip cookie dough; chocolate peanut butter brownie crunch; gooey butter bake; pumpkin butterscotch pecan; rainbow sherbet; kids play (goat cheese); lemony lemon crème fraiche; and cookies, cookies, and cream — the ingredients were ordered and the team got busy.

    The ice cream will be $6 a scoop, and $7 for a split scoop. Anything left over from the 5,000-scoop production will be available for sale in pints at the shops. Salls Cree’s award-winning book will also be available for sale.

    “As much I love everything that we make, I miss making scooped ice cream so much,” says Salls Cree. “There’s this whole world of flavors and textures that I developed and have worked with that we don’t get to dabble in because we don’t do scooped ice cream. This is our chance to bring some of that into our repertoire even if it’s just for a short period of time.”

    And should there be enough public demand, well, Salls Cree isn’t opposed to the idea of a scoop shop that’s open throughout the year, not just on Halloween.

    Pretty Cool Ice Cream Halloween scoop shop pop-up, Saturday, October 26; and Sunday, October 27 at 2353 N. California Avenue in Logan Square and 709 W. Belden Avenue in Lincoln Park.

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    Lisa Shames

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  • The 85 Best Quentin Tarantino Characters Ever, Ranked

    The 85 Best Quentin Tarantino Characters Ever, Ranked

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    We cut to two men wearing black-and-white suits. There’s Vincent Vega with an earring and shoulder-length hair riding shotgun. The car is driven by Jules Winnfield, who’s sporting a Kurtis Blow Jheri curl that looks like it’s still dripping. Context and appearances tell us they’re criminals, likely on their way to do criminal things. Except they’re talking about … cheeseburgers? The metric system? Foot massages? The details of their job trickle out—they’re on the way to an apartment, where there are as many as three or four guys waiting, and those guys are possibly armed—but the specifics seem incidental. The appeal is everything else: the mundane and philosophical musings, the moral and situational what-ifs, the casual conversation between two guys about to do serious things. When it’s time to actually go to work, Jules turns to his partner and says, fittingly, “Come on, let’s get into character.”

    This happens in the first few minutes of Pulp Fiction, Quentin Tarantino’s sophomore film and pantheon-level classic released in theaters 30 years ago this Monday. For many, it was an introduction to Tarantino’s cinematic world—and it was a fitting one. Because while Pulp Fiction is about many things—fate, coincidence, divine intervention, Marilyn Monroe impersonators—and while it’s most famous for its nonlinear story structure, the movie’s lasting legacy is its approach to characters. In his second time in the director’s chair, Tarantino took the talkiness and digressions from his diamond-heist-gone-wrong debut, Reservoir Dogs, and gave them an adrenaline shot right through the breastplate. Like the particulars of Jules and Vincent’s mission, the movie’s plot could seem incidental—we never did learn what was in that suitcase—but as long Tarantino and cowriter Roger Avary were feeding us dialogue like this, it hit like a Big Kahuna burger or maybe some uncut Choco.

    It’s only appropriate, then, that on the anniversary of Tarantino’s big breakout, we celebrate the characters that have animated his oeuvre. Perhaps more so than any other director, he’s filled his universe with memorable characters both big and small. Sometimes it’s because of the strange, seemingly random details—why did Marsellus Wallace have a bandage on his neck?—but sometimes it’s because of the world-altering stuff. (Shosanna killed Hitler in Tarantino’s rewriting of history.) Sometimes they’re cold-blooded but undeniable villains like Hans Landa; other times they’re simply badass warriors with a high body count. (They’re probably still cleaning Crazy 88 blood off of the walls of that restaurant.) But in making this list, we tried to capture the full breadth of his many creations: the main characters, the hired guns, the cameos, the people who also existed in real life, and, most importantly, the Gimp.

    We also tried to capture the full scope of Quentin’s work, so films that he’s written are also eligible. That means that in addition to the likes of Pulp Fiction and The Hateful Eight, you’ll find characters from True Romance, Natural Born Killers, and From Dusk Till Dawn. (Though, sadly, none from Four Rooms or, uh, It’s Pat.) It may not shock you which movie has the most entries on the list …

    Ringer illustration

    Like I said: pure, uncut Choco.

    Lastly, before we begin, a quick shout-out to some of characters who just missed the cut: Dick Ritchie, detective Nicky Dimes and his partner Cody Nicholson, the True Romance bodyguard who started firing on the cops, Robert Downey Jr.’s smarmy journalist in Natural Born Killers, the Reservoir Dogs cop who got his ear hacked off, Sex Machine, B.J. Novak’s Little Man, Steven Wright’s radio DJ, Samuel L. Jackson’s piano player in Kill Bill: Vol. 2, and probably a few dozen others. (Some others you won’t find: most of the characters Tarantino has played himself. We have a special ranking for those buried within the piece.)

    All right, now it’s time for us to get into character. If you don’t like what you read here, give Vincent and Jules a call. Or better yet: Go get the Wolf. Maybe he can fix the situation for you. —Justin Sayles

    85. Maynard and Zed, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Duane Whitaker (Maynard) and Peter Greene (Zed)

    Maynard runs a pawnshop, and Zed is a security guard. At some point in their lives, they met a guy whom they now call the Gimp and whom they confine inside a room in the pawnshop. During “The Gold Watch,” Marsellus Wallace and Butch Coolidge’s fight makes its way into Maynard’s pawnshop, and Maynard decides to kidnap both of them, calling up Zed so that they can plan what to do with them. Butch is put into a room while Maynard and Zed assault Marsellus. Butch manages to escape, kill Maynard, and help Marsellus get free. We never see what happens to Zed on-screen, but if it’s anything close to what Marsellus said he was going to do, we know it wasn’t pretty. —khal

    Best quote: “Nobody kills anybody in my place of business except me or Zed.”

    84. Big Daddy Bennet, Django Unchained

    Played by: Don Johnson

    Card-carrying Regulator and Bennet Manor plantation owner Spencer Gordon Bennet, known to everyone as Big Daddy, is trouble. After Django Freeman and Dr. King Schultz eliminate the Brittle Brothers on his property, Big Daddy becomes enraged. He insists that Jenny complete her bag-making order for the night of their raid. However, things don’t go according to plan for the wealthy racist. Django takes him out after the other Regulators are either shot or blown up during the raid. Perhaps Big Daddy should have tested his bag before heading out to his demise. Guess all that wealth can’t buy you intelligence. —khal

    Best quote: “Wait a minute! I didn’t say no bags.”

    83. Fabienne, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Maria de Medeiros

    I’ll never forgive Butch for making Fabienne cry.

    Miramax

    She made a mistake. She forgot to pack Butch’s watch. (Yes, the one that was in two different dudes’ asses over seven years. That one.) But that doesn’t give him the right to scream at her and throw TVs around a hotel room! That’s no way to treat his Sugar Pop, his Lemon Pie, his Jellybean, his Miss Beautiful Tulip. Fabienne is sweeter than sweet, pure candy in a rotten situation. I don’t care that she forgot the stupid watch or can’t tell the difference between a motorcycle and a chopper; I just want to make sure she gets her blueberry pancakes. —Austin Gayle

    Best quote: “Butch, will you give me oral pleasure?”

    82. Tex, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Austin Butler

    Almost three full years before moviegoers would see Austin Butler portray Elvis in theaters, he was playing someone way more infamous: Charles “Tex” Watson, a member of the Manson Family who was convicted of first-degree murder for his involvement in the Manson Family killings. Butler’s portrayal of Tex is truly remembered for two moments in the film: the first during Cliff Booth’s altercation with the Manson Family on a ranch, when Tex rode in on a horse to exchange words with him. Tex is likely more known for his appearance later in the film; on the night he and his associates are set to commit murder, Tex tries his best to sound tough while holding a gun on Cliff, before being mauled by his dog and having his head stomped in. He couldn’t even get his threats out with any menace or sense. His best quote will make me laugh every time I hear it, but I definitely don’t know what he meant. —khal

    Best quote: “I’m as real as a donut, motherfucker.”

    81. Broomhilda, Django Unchained

    Played by: Kerry Washington

    While rescuing Django Freeman’s wife, Broomhilda von Shaft, is the primary goal of Django and Schultz, it’s not like Broomhilda just sat around waiting for them. There’s a reason why she was locked in that hotbox; after Calvin Candie became her owner, she tried to escape Candyland. Her punishment was being locked in that box for 10 days; she was let out only because she spoke German. She doesn’t say much in the film, in German or English, but her resiliency speaks volumes. —khal

    Best quote: “Hey, big troublemaker.”

    Miramax

    80. Esmarelda Villalobos, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Angela Jones

    The dreamlike Pulp Fiction cab ride is the most disconnected moment in a movie filled with digressions. (Why is that the only black-and-white background in the film?) Do not, however, believe anyone who tells you it’s pointless. It’s all scene setting and character building—compare the cool way Butch reacts to learning he killed his opponent in the ring to how he explodes when he learns Fabienne forgot his dad’s watch. But mostly, it’s unforgettable, and that’s all thanks to the brief appearance of Esmarelda, who seems as though she’s been beamed in from a French new wave film. She’s perhaps the only character in Pulp Fiction not comfortable with small talk—she’d rather know what it feels like to kill another person. (Short answer, in Butch’s telling: mostly nothing.) In a movie that can sometimes be fixated on the small things, it’s important to have someone asking the big questions. —Sayles

    Best quote: “What does it feel like … killing a man? Beating another man to death with your bare hands? It is a subject I have much interest in.”

    79. Bag Head #2, Django Unchained

    Played by: Jonah Hill

    Look, no one’s out here saying that Bag Head #2 was a good guy. In the grand scheme of Django Unchained, no one is calling him a hero. But I think you can appreciate how he brings a sort of pragmatic vibe to the lynch mob that Big Daddy doesn’t like. He was just asking whether any of the other Bag Heads brought any extra bags because he made the eyeholes in his too big. It’s a valid question. To be clear, I’m glad he died. —Andrew Gruttadaro

    Best quote: “OK, I’m confused. Are the bags on or off?”

    78. Jody, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Rosanna Arquette

    Oh, Jody. Jody the Unflappable. The Queen of the Sanctity of Needlework. The One With All the Shit in Her Face. As men quiver in the face of their greatest challenges (and by “challenges,” I mean, “needing to inject the wife of a crime boss with a life-saving dose of adrenaline”), she looks on in wide-eyed, fearless fascination. And after the job is done, she—or, well, Rosanna Arquette, really; tremendously efficient work by her—is the one to deliver one of Pulp Fiction’s most iconic lines with a laugh: “That was fucking trippy.” It really was, Jody. You nailed it. —Gruttadaro

    Best quote: “That was fucking trippy.”


    77. Wayne Maunder, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Luke Perry

    The lightly fictionalized depictions of certain real-life people in Once Upon a Time have long driven the conversation around the movie: There’s Sharon Tate, a victim of the most famous killing in Hollywood history, whose story is rewritten thanks to Cliff Booth and a pit bull. There’s Roman Polanski, Tate’s husband and the disgraced director who fled the U.S. in the late ’70s to avoid prison time. And, of course, there’s Bruce Lee, portrayed uncomfortably in OUATIH as a blustery loudmouth who can’t even beat a stuntman in a fight. (At least in the stuntman’s recollection.)

    But in Quentin’s love letter to old Hollywood, there’s one lightly fictionalized character that often goes overlooked: Wayne Maunder, one of the stars of Lancer, played here by Luke Perry in his final film role. Decades removed from his turn as the bad boy heartthrob Dylan on Beverly Hills, 90210, Perry shows up during the Lancer pilot-filming sequence for a quiet, dignified cameo set against Leonardo DiCaprio–as–Rick Dalton’s fire and brimstone.

    Tarantino’s gift in crafting homages partly lies in his ability to make the small feel big—this movie seems more interested in a down-marquee star like Maunder than the characters based on veritable A-listers—and it’s no different with Perry. His post-90210 career never took off like one may have expected; he feels more like a relic of the ’90s than someone who defined it. But in Once Upon a Time, he feels as big as Steve McQueen or anyone else the film immortalizes. Perry’s an avatar for the new old Hollywood, and I can’t wait to see who plays him in the fictionalized version. —Sayles

    Best quote: “You do know kidnapping is a hanging crime?”

    76. Abernathy, Death Proof

    Played by: Rosario Dawson

    Abernathy pisses me off early in her precious screen time when she, lying in the back seat of the car with an eye mask on and her feet dangling out the window, says: “I’m not awake. I’m asleep.” Rude! And she still has the audacity to ask her friends for vodka, sugar-free Red Bull, and some Red Apple tans?! Abernathy is prissy and high maintenance. It’s exhausting. I can’t say I’m shocked that her crush on director Cecil Evans isn’t panning out. She also willfully throws her sleeping friend Lee (Mary Elizabeth Winstead) to the menacing dog of a man who lets the women take the car for a test drive, and that’s after she has to beg Zoë (Zoë Bell) and Kim (Tracie Thoms) to let her come along for the joyride at all. She’s a bad hang with cool friends. I’m happy she gets some licks in when they’re all punching Stuntman Mike in a circle, but other than that, Abernathy is prime hate-watch material. —Gayle

    Best quote: “Fuck that shit! Let’s kill this bastard.”

    75. The Gimp, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Stephen Hibbert

    A strange glitch in the ’90s film continuum links Pulp Fiction, one of the consensus best films ever made, and It’s Pat: The Movie, one of the consensus worst films ever made. By hanging around during Harvey Keitel’s 1993 Saturday Night Live appearance, Tarantino became friends with then–cast member Julia Sweeney and her then-husband, Stephen Hibbert—who would soon cowrite the It’s Pat movie. Tarantino was in a brief script doctor phase of his career and subsequently helped with a rewrite of the movie … in ways that are unclear, given the end results. (Tarantino, for the record, told Playboy in 1994 that he wanted Pat to be a girl. Just so you know.) Beyond an essential scene with Ween, the Pat movie has little to offer history, but it did lead to Sweeney being cast in Pulp Fiction in the small part of Raquel, the heiress to Monster Joe’s Truck and Tow, and Hibbert being cast as the Gimp.

    The unsettling vagueness of the Gimp—why is he just ready to go in that box on a Thursday afternoon, and why the hell is he going along with this?—is one of Tarantino’s more subtly clever character decisions. It implies a story that would take its own movie to tell—or at the very least a Dateline episode. But while it’s left unsaid in the movie, Tarantino had more in his head for what was going on in that pawnshop. Zed and Maynard—the two perverts who seemingly have a whole routine in place for when two men roll into the store fighting—were brothers, according to the script, and the Gimp was a hitchhiker they’d kidnapped years before, Tarantino explained recently. This poor soul had been Gimped up so long that he’d lost touch with his identity, which is why he isn’t trying to escape with Butch. But you don’t really need to know all that. Like Pat’s gender, the point is that you don’t know. —Nate Rogers

    Best quote: [Muffled screaming.]

    Ringer illustration

    74. Brett, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Frank Whaley

    Something you have to wonder about Brett: Was he simply playing coy at first? It’s easy to write off Marvin, Flock of Seagulls, and their breakfast-burger-chomping leader, Brett, as a hapless group of would-be criminals caught flat-footed in their apartment, after Jules and Vincent come knocking bright and early, looking to reclaim the glowing contents of the briefcase. But how did Brett—played perfectly by a stumbling, bumbling Frank Whaley—get involved with such a valuable briefcase in the first place? How did he at one point come to be deemed viable by a man as serious as Marsellus Wallace?

    We know that Brett has big brains; he knocked that Royale With Cheese metric system trivia out of the park, OK? And we also eventually learn that he wasn’t as flat-footed as we initially thought. The fourth member of their crew was hiding with the “hand cannon” and could have jumped out at any point. Maybe Brett was getting increasingly frantic not just about the fact that Flock of Seagulls was shot in front of him, but also because his ace in the hole was staying in the hole, unable to gather the courage to save his friends. Underestimate people like Brett at your own peril. There’s a version of this story where Jules and Vincent are both shredded up in a scheme of Brett’s design. —Rogers

    Best quote: “What?”

    73. General Ed Fenech, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Mike Myers

    If there’s one thing we’ve learned about Mike Myers over the past 35 years, it’s that he’s good at doing comedic British accents. His part in Inglourious Basterds is actually pretty serious—he’s the English general who recruits Michael Fassbender’s character, Archie Hicox, to join the Basterds’ “little escapade”—and Myers plays it with gravitas. But it’s hard not to laugh a little bit when he shows up for five minutes. I swear that’s not an insult. I just couldn’t stop thinking about how funny it would be if Austin Powers made a cameo in a bloody, revisionist World War II epic. Yeah, baby. —Alan Siegel

    Best quote: “We have all our rotten eggs in one basket. The objective of Operation Kino: Blow up the basket.”

    72. Susan “Sadie” Atkins, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Mikey Madison

    Tarantino’s rise coincided with moral panic in America over violence in media, and while he occasionally found himself the subject of that grandstanding, his movies have never tried to present gore in a particularly convincing way. The infamous ear-cutting scene in Reservoir Dogs is actually more tasteful and tongue-in-cheek than its early reputation would suggest, and as his visual style evolved in the 2000s and 2010s, the violence rendered on-screen took on a cartoonish quality that distanced it from anything too visceral. What exists in its place is a different kind of provocation: the historical revisionism of Inglourious Basterds, Django Unchained, and Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood, films that reimagine tragedies structural and acute with righteous indignance. In Once Upon a Time, “Sadie” Atkins, the real-life Manson Family member portrayed by Mikey Madison—now poised for her own televisual fame after starring in this year’s Anora—casts the family’s culture-shifting murder spree as a direct consequence of on-screen violence. Minutes later, of course, she and her cohort are killed in some of the most madcap homicides ever committed to film. —Paul Thompson

    Best quote: “If you grew up watching TV, that means you were watching murder. Every show on TV that wasn’t I Love Lucy was about murder. So my idea is: We kill the people who taught us to kill. I mean, where the fuck are we, man? We are in fucking Hollywood, man! The people who an entire generation grew up watching kill people live here, and they live in pig-shit fucking luxury. I say fuck ’em! I say we cut their cocks off and make ’em eat it!”

    71. Beaumont Livingston, Jackie Brown

    Played by: Chris Tucker

    Ordell didn’t realize the trouble he stirred up when he killed Beaumont. Portrayed by Chris Tucker, Beaumont was a liability for Ordell in his (illegal) line of business. Someone like Beaumont, who admitted to being scared about getting time over “some machine gun shit,” could potentially start talking to a detective, putting Ordell in a bad situation. So what does Ordell do? He puts Beaumont in a bad position, creating a tale to convince Beaumont to get into the trunk of a car. As reluctant as he may be to climb into the trunk, Beaumont can’t afford to cross Ordell, the man who had Max Cherry bail him out. In a cunning act of deception, instead of sticking to his story and driving to a meetup before giving him the signal to pop out of the trunk with a shotgun, Ordell drives into a lot around the corner with “Strawberry Letter 23” blaring, then gets out and shoots Beaumont dead himself. A temporary fix for Ordell, who was right: Beaumont was an informant, which means that the ATF and the LAPD will be on him soon. —khal

    Best quote: “I ain’t ridin’ in no trunk for no minute, man.”

    70. Marvin, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Phil LaMarr

    Marvin’s role in the grand scheme of things may have been small, but he was the catalyst for two significant moments in the story. First, he was the one who informed Jules and Vincent about the briefcase’s location, surviving the bullet-ridden ordeal in the apartment. He did not survive the car ride immediately following that ordeal, but cleaning his brain matter from the back seat of the car created an entire story for this film. In death, Marvin provided viewers with a scenario that required the Wolf’s skills, so shout-out to Marvin! —khal

    Best quote: “Oh, fuck! I’m fucked. Oh, fuck! Oh, fuck!”

    69. Elliot Blitzer, True Romance

    Played by: Bronson Pinchot

    Bronson Pinchot, best known as Balki Bartokomous from the hit ABC sitcom Perfect Strangers, took on a completely different role in True Romance. In the film, he portrays Elliot Blitzer, an actor and production assistant who always seems to mess things up. Clarence’s friend Dick Ritchie calls on Elliot to help broker a deal to sell the cocaine Clarence and Alabama, um, inherited from Drexl. Elliot arranges a meeting with movie producer Lee Donowitz but ends up with a faceful of coke during a traffic stop after disrespecting the woman in his car. He ends up becoming an informant about the coke deal he brokered and has the audacity to ask the detective, by name, whether he can leave the drug deal. A class act to the end. —khal

    Best quote: “Elliot, your motivation is to stay out of jail.”

    Universal

    68. Hugo Stiglitz, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Til Schweiger

    The subject of one of the most thrilling introduction sequences in a Tarantino film—it’s amazing how much of his arm he can fit down a Gestapo officer’s throat—Stiglitz is the flat-out coolest of all the Basterds. (For evidence: Watch how Hugo barely reacts when they break him out of his holding cell, choosing to focus on his cigarette instead.) One of the only real crimes of Inglourious Basterds is that we don’t get more of him, because we too are big fans of his work when it comes to killing Nazis. —Sayles

    Best quote: “Say ‘auf wiedersehen’ to your Nazi balls.”

    67. Joe Cabot, Reservoir Dogs

    Played by: Lawrence Tierney

    He looks like the Thing but acts even tougher, he’s got a rigid set of personal rules, and he’s got a gut feeling he really oughta listen to. Joe Cabot isn’t as menacing or memorable as, say, Marsellus Wallace, but in the interconnected L.A. crime universe of Tarantino’s early movies, Joe cuts a dignified figure. A large part of that is thanks to Lawrence Tierney’s gravelly voice and stoic demeanor. (Fun fact: His “dead as Dillinger” comment is likely a callback to the fact he actually played John Dillinger decades earlier.) Don’t piss him off, don’t try to trade names, and especially do not forget to tip. —Sayles

    Best quote: “You get four guys all fighting over who’s gonna be Mr. Black, but they don’t know each other, so nobody wants to back down. No way. I pick. You’re Mr. Pink. Be thankful you’re not Mr. Yellow.”

    66. Fredrick Zoller, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Daniel Brühl

    When we first meet Fredrick Zoller, he’s no villain. He’s like you, actually: a film buff. In that moviegoer vacuum, it’s difficult to blame Fredrick for being pulled in by the sight of Shosanna Dreyfus, changing the marquee lettering of her very own movie theater, as he strolls the streets of Paris. Shosanna is a Jew living in hiding under the alias Emmanuelle Mimieux, but Zoller knows nothing of that. At the moment he simply wants to talk film with a beautiful woman. Obnoxious in his timing? Sure. Oblivious about her disinterest? Absolutely. Willfully ignorant of the fact that he’s wearing the uniform of an army that is occupying this woman’s country while attempting an extermination of millions of people across the continent? Bien sûr.

    But for just a moment—before we learn about the exploits of the famous Fredrick Zoller, who became the Nazis’ most adored soldier after single-handedly killing 250 enemies from a bell tower over three days—he’s given the benefit of being seen as his own person. This moment of grace from Tarantino, however, goes out the window quickly, as we learn the true extent of his monstrosity. Zoller deserves little, if no, sympathy, but it feels notable that he was based in part on Audie Murphy, an American soldier with a staggering kill count who came home as his country’s most decorated soldier of World War II. Murphy became a celebrity, too, and turned to acting and songwriting. He was a pretty damn good songwriter, as it turns out, having a few of his songs performed by none other than Harry Nilsson. Murphy was a real artist, but he never shook off the terrors of war, suffering from PTSD—and will always be known for the people he killed. At a certain point, Zoller chose his murderous path. But as with Murphy, part of the tragedy is just imagining what kind of life was lost when a person like him was handed a gun. —Rogers

    Best quote: [In French] “Most German soldiers are somebody’s son.”

    Miramax

    65. The Crazy 88, Kill Bill

    Played by: Various actors (including Tarantino)

    After her intense fight with Gogo, the Bride has one thing on her mind: taking out O-Ren Ishii. However, one grueling fight isn’t the only obstacle on her way to O-Ren: The Bride also has to contend with the Crazy 88, a group of yakuza assassins who do O-Ren’s bidding. The visual of the 88 40-plus mask-wearing, weapon-carrying people around the Bride is pretty awesome, especially when you know that you’ll soon see some of the most artful ways to be hacked and slashed by the Bride. Now, either their look was better than their fighting skills, or the Bride is just that good and that determined to battle O-Ren—but not even Crazy 88 leader Johnny Mo stands a chance against her. Hopefully, that one young Crazy 88 member heeds the Bride’s words and goes back home to his mother. Most of the Crazy 88 end up with severed limbs to reattach. —khal

    Best quote: “Charlie Brown!”

    64. Virgil, True Romance

    Played by: James Gandolfini

    It’s sometimes hard to remember that the most famous TV mob boss was at one point best known as a that guy who played hired goons. He’d eventually subvert the trope with his roles in Get Shorty and The Mexican—those characters showed there was a heart underneath the muscle—but in True Romance, the only thing he’s trying to subvert is Alabama’s face. The Virgil-Alabama fight scene remains one of the most grisly moments in the greater Tarantino universe—a diminutive Southern belle in a no-holds-barred fight against an attack dog with a thick accent and big shotgun. He loses because he has to, but in the process, he flashes the otherworldly charisma that made him the king of North Jersey. He was never destined to stay an underling. —Sayles

    Best quote: “Shit, now I do it just to watch their fuckin’ expression change.”

    63. Santanico Pandemonium, From Dusk Till Dawn

    Played by: Salma Hayek

    “The mistress of the macabre, the epitome of evil,” is how Razor Charlie describes her before beckoning the crowd to “kneel and worship” at Santanico Pandemonium’s feet. This scene takes place at a strip club in the middle of the desert called the Titty Twister, so the crowd was not surprised when a woman with a snake wrapped around her began to dance. What should be a tantalizing experience quickly turns into a guns-drawn bar fight that escalates when Santanico transforms into a vampire. As it turns out, this strip club was built on top of an Aztec temple, and it’s full of vampires! Santanico meets a chandelier-assisted death soon after all hell breaks loose, and for all of the monsters—both vampire and human—that are in that film, we know which one stood out the most. —khal

    Best quote: “I’m not gonna drain you completely. You’ll be my slave … because I don’t think you’re worthy of human blood. You’ll feed on the blood of stray dogs.”

    62. Marvin Schwarz, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Al Pacino

    Until I watched the scene in Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood where Marvin Schwarz (a dapper, infectiously affable Al Pacino) delivers a sobering reality check to Leonardo DiCaprio’s Rick Dalton—effectively confirming the actor’s worst fears by encouraging him to accept his fading Hollywood status, move to Italy, and become a facsimile of a star—I didn’t pay much attention to the careful consideration every working actor must have about the parts they inhabit.

    Acting is not real. But the audience’s reaction to it, once their imagination gets hooked like a fish, can be powerful enough to override the fictional qualities that make what we’re watching so engaging in the first place. The quality of the performance is then rendered secondary. Lines are blurred. Actor and character become one.

    In their meeting at Musso & Frank, Schwarz enlightens Dalton, along with everyone watching Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood. The underlying purpose of this encounter is expository, but Schwarz—an oracle crossed with a salesman who can smell insecurity from a mile away—accomplishes something more. His monologue catalyzes the entire film. It’s indelible and self-referential and tells us everything worth knowing about Dalton. Meanwhile, a small slice of our brain can’t help but analyze DiCaprio (and, crucially, Brad Pitt). —Michael Pina

    Best quote: “So, Rick, who’s gonna kick the shit out of you next week? … Down goes you. Down goes your career as a leading man.”

    Warner Bros.

    61. Clifford Worley, True Romance

    Played by: Dennis Hopper

    True Romance doesn’t spend much time with Hopper’s Clifford Worley, Clarence’s father. We are introduced to him when Clarence and Alabama are on the run after killing Alabama’s former pimp, Drexl. They ask Clifford, a former cop, to inquire with some of his ex-colleagues about the Drexl murder and possible suspects. Initially, Clifford learns that the police are focusing on an associate of Drexl’s, but the Mafia finds out that Clarence’s ID was on Drexl’s body. This leads Vincenzo Coccotti to kidnap Clifford in an attempt to locate Clarence and Alabama. Even though he wasn’t always there for Clarence like he should have been, Clifford refuses to give up any information. Before Coccotti kills Clifford, Clifford shares a memorable story about Coccotti’s Sicilian heritage that I won’t repeat here. This enrages Coccotti, who pulls out a gun and ends Clifford’s life on the spot. —khal

    Best quote: “Son of a bitch was right. She tastes like a peach.”

    60. Hattori Hanzo, Kill Bill

    Played by: Sonny Chiba

    A retired master swordsmith (and present-day terrible sushi chef), the man from Okinawa had given up his trade for more than a quarter century before Beatrix Kiddo showed up on his barstool. And we immediately understand why, as the spiritual toll of having made so many instruments of death flashes across Hanzo’s face as the yellow-haired warrior evokes his past. But all it takes is the mention of one wayward former student to pull him back. A month later, he warily presents Beatrix with his finest work—a blade strong enough to wipe out the biggest rats and maybe even God himself.

    Hattori Hanzo represents something larger than just sword-making within the Tarantino universe, though. He’s named after a 16th-century samurai general, but more importantly, he’s played by Sonny Chiba, the legendary martial artist and actor. Chiba has been referenced several times throughout Tarantino’s work. He’s the star of the triple feature Clarence Worley watches at the Vista Theater in True Romance—a theater Quentin now owns—while the opening scroll of Chiba’s film Karate Kiba is the inspiration for Jules Winnfield’s famous Ezekiel 25:17 speech. Tarantino’s work often straddles the line between pastiche and homage, but when he’s able to bring it all together, as he does with Hattori Hanzo, it transcends reverence and film history and becomes an entirely different, vital thing. It’s like watching a master swordsmith perfect his craft. —Sayles

    Best quote: “If on your journey, you should encounter God, God will be cut.”

    59. Dieter Hellstrom, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: August Diehl

    Because Inglourious Basterds was written by Quentin Tarantino, one of the British commandos is a former film critic whose erudition leads him and his friends to be murdered in a basement. When Archie Hicox (Michael Fassbender) speaks to his compatriots during a secret rendezvous in Vichy France, his odd German accent catches the ear of Dieter Hellstrom (August Diehl), the type of German officer—sneering, professorial—one imagines would be downright pathetic in any time but war, clinging to status and relishing every indignity he can visit on his subordinates. When Hicox flashes the wrong hand sign while asking for three glasses, Hellstrom, now confident in his belief these are Allies posing as fellow Nazis, turns gleeful as he triggers a standoff that he knows will likely leave him dead. The evil of banality. —Thompson

    Best quote: “You’ve just given yourself away, captain. You’re no more German than that scotch.”

    58. John “The Hangman” Ruth, The Hateful Eight

    Played by: Kurt Russell

    Kurt Russell in a movie scored by Ennio Morricone and set in a desolate, frozen world, with his character just trying to figure out who’s really who? Stop me if you’ve seen this one before.

    But while R.J. MacReady was the swaggering hero of The Thing, the Hangman is simply the least terrible main player in The Hateful Eight. (And truly only by default: Sure, Daisy Domergue deserves her own rung in hell, but at a certain point, you wonder whether Ruth is keeping her chained to him simply so he can use her as a punching bag.) Even if you take exception to his approach, you have to appreciate that Ruth’s one of the few people at Minnie’s not lying about his identity, history, or intentions. Unfortunately, that naivety ultimately does him in several times over: first when he learns the truth about Major Warren’s Lincoln letter and again—and finally—when he drinks the poisoned coffee. The Hangman wasn’t long for the haberdashery, but neither was anyone in The Hateful Eight. Because just like in John Carpenter’s classic, there’s an evil here that’s uncontrollable, even in the face of someone like Russell. —Sayles

    Best quote: “You really only need to hang mean bastards, but mean bastards, you need to hang!”

    57. Vincenzo Coccotti, True Romance

    Played by: Christopher Walken

    Organized crime is a regular bedfellow of Tarantino characters, but Italian mobsters—the Big Kahuna of organized crime, if you will—show up only in True Romance. Unfortunately for Clarence Worley (Christian Slater), the suitcase of dope he ripped off was ultimately the property of Blue Lou Boyle, a Detroit boss menacing enough that we don’t need to see him on-screen to know how dangerous he is. That information is instead communicated by the menace of Vincenzo Coccotti (Christopher Walken), Blue Lou’s consigliere, who arrives at the trailer of Clarence’s father, Clifford (Dennis Hopper), and introduces himself as “the Antichrist.” Shit, man. Good luck, Cliff.

    Mention Walken and Tarantino, and the obvious thought is Captain Koons and the gold watch in Pulp Fiction. Don’t sleep on the other Walken-Tarantino stand-alone scene. Walken vs. Hopper is a heavyweight brawl for the ages—a scene to cherish for the way director Tony Scott allows it to breathe, the tension brewing as both men slowly read each other, until it’s clear that there’s only one violent way this is going to end. My favorite moment of Walken’s performance is his response to Hopper’s question of “You’re Sicilian, huh?” Walken replies with a soft, almost whispered “Yeah, Sicilian.” He smiles as he says it, with pride. I’ve seen the movie many times, and I still don’t really know why he smiles there. Pride of being a Sicilian? Maybe. But that seems too simple. More likely, it’s a smile of pride for Hopper—a smile in advance recognition of a father deciding in that exact moment to enjoy his last cigarette and tell a Sicilian mobster, the Antichrist at his door, to go to hell. —Rogers

    Best quote: “You got me in a vendetta kind of mood.”

    56. Ray Nicolette, Jackie Brown

    Played by: Michael Keaton

    Jackie Brown is full of twists, but none is greater than the fact that Michael Keaton—and all his live-wire energy—somehow slotted perfectly into a Tarantino ensemble. If anything, his version of Nicolette works precisely because it shouldn’t. Ray very much wants to be cool, which means he doesn’t have the effortless appeal of some of QT’s other staples. He can’t keep his mouth shut for long enough to actually be mysterious, but he also doesn’t get the kind of big, overarticulated monologue that puts other Tarantino characters in the pantheon. Ray is just sort of anxiously fluttering in and out of the story … and it’s electric. Nicolette chews up everything in sight: gum, coffee stirrers, the riffy dialogue, all the half-truths that Jackie feeds him, and every freaking scene possible. You can never quite tell how much Ray knows that he’s being played, but you can feel the wheels turning and grinding and winding up a cop who’s very much in his own head. —Rob Mahoney

    Best quote: “I sure hope you didn’t do anything stupid, Jackie.”

    Ringer illustration

    55. Seth and Richie Gecko, From Dusk Till Dawn

    Played by: George Clooney and Quentin Tarantino

    These guys are foul. Seth—imbued by George Clooney with a mezcal-soaked grubbiness—would like you to believe he’s more refined than his sexually predatory, murdering, mentally/emotionally/spiritually disturbed little brother, Richie, played by Tarantino himself. But if Dusk Till Dawn makes anything clear (other than how much Quentin would like to wine and dine each of Salma Hayek’s toes), it’s that the line between stickup Romulus and barbarous Remus is only so fine.

    Richie’s a rabid dog. Parsing through the makings of a figure like that is like psychoanalyzing a swarm of Africanized honey bees. Seth for the first half of the movie is something worse—something hacking, shooting, staking, and sunburning a coven of vamps might not even erase: complicit. At some point, even with siblings, you’re kinda the company you keep. In the words of a certain former man of faith, both these fellas are major “fucking losers,” even if only one gets what’s coming to them. —Lex Pryor

    Best quote (Richie): “It hurts like a fucking son of a bitch. Thanks for asking, Seth.”

    54. Chris Mannix, The Hateful Eight

    Played by: Walton Goggins

    Well, I’ll be double-dog damned! It was only a matter of time before Tarantino the casting impresario and Walton Goggins the peerless character actor joined forces. (“Watching him for six years do faux-Quentin dialogue [in The Shield] let me know that he’s got the right kind of tongue,” Tarantino quipped in 2015.) And once they did—resulting in Billy Crash’s comeuppance in Django Unchained—it was only a matter of when, not if, a collab would happen again.

    Which brings us to Chris Mannix, the self-proclaimed sheriff of Red Rock played by Goggins in The Hateful Eight. “The way Quentin builds his stories, everybody is three-dimensional,” Goggins said. “Even the guy who just walks in and says nothing.” That ain’t Mannix, though: His eyes shifty and his alliances shifting, he’s a guy who won’t shut up, his ignorance and his charisma constantly echoing through the claustrophobic confines of Minnie’s Haberdashery. Whether he’s questioning Major Marquis Warren about his Lincoln letter or proclaiming “Navajo!” Mannix is the straw that stirs the drink throughout the movie, right up until he either does or doesn’t finally shut up forever. —Katie Baker

    Best quote: “Well, cut my legs off and call me Shorty!”

    53. Melanie Ralston, Jackie Brown

    Played by: Bridget Fonda

    Melanie Ralston is, at least on the surface, the perfect Manic Stoner Dream Girl. But underneath the thick cloud of smoke, there’s a lot more there. She’s a gadfly, capable of manipulating the violent men in her life from her spot on the couch. Bridget Fonda’s snarky, laid-back performance helps turn Melanie into Lady Macbeth in a string bikini.

    The way she relentlessly teases Louis about forgetting where he parked at the mall is hilarious: “Jesus, but if you two are not the biggest pair of fuckups I’ve ever met in my entire life. How did you ever rob a bank? Hey, when you robbed banks, did you forget where your car was then, too? No wonder you went to jail.” Since this is Tarantino’s adaptation of an Elmore Leonard novel, her needling leads Louis to gun her down. It’s a brutal fate, but she died doing what she loved: making fun of a shitty guy. —Siegel

    Best quote:

    Ordell: “You know you smoke too much of that shit. That shit gonna rob you of your own ambition.”

    Melanie: “Not if your ambition is to get high and watch TV.”

    52. Vernita Green, Kill Bill

    Played by: Vivica A. Fox

    Codename Copperhead, formerly a member of the Deadly Viper Assassination Squad that attempted to kill the Bride, Vernita Green was living the life most criminals dream of: escaping the dangerous underworld to get married, have children, and live a quiet life. She married a doctor and had a daughter, Nikki, who comes home from school one day to find her mother and the Bride in the middle of a fight. After instructing her daughter to go up to her room so she can finish speaking with her guest, Vernita loses that fight, murdered by the Bride in the first killing we witness. What sticks out most, aside from that beautiful visual Vernita painted for the “night fight” she wanted to have? It’s her vocalizing how upset she was that the Bride’s codename during their Deadly Viper Assassination Squad days was Black Mamba. —khal

    Best quote: “Black Mamba. I shoulda been motherfuckin’ Black Mamba.”

    51. Zoë Bell, Death Proof

    Played by: Zoë Bell

    Zoë Bell has worn many hats as a Tarantino collaborator—Uma Thurman’s stunt double in the Kill Bill movies, stunt coordinator on Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood, acting roles in Once Upon a Time and The Hateful Eight—but her greatest accomplishment was, well, being Zoë Bell. In Death Proof, Bell plays a fictionalized version of herself as she crosses paths with a murderous stuntman (Kurt Russell) and his “death-proof” Chevy Nova. The highlight of the film is Bell executing a death-defying stunt on the hood of a ’70s Challenger—the kind of sequence where the line between reality and fiction is blurred, and all you can think about is how they managed to pull it off without Bell getting seriously hurt. The Oscars have yet to create a category awarding stunt performers, but Bell doesn’t just deserve the plaudits for Death Proof: Her entire career is a celebration of Hollywood’s most underappreciated art form. —Miles Surrey

    Best quote: [While hanging on to the hood of a car for dear life.] “I’m sorry I called you a Black bitch!”

    Sony Pictures Releasing

    50. Brandy the Dog, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Sayuri the American pit bull terrier

    Look, as the parent of a rescue pit bull—an American Staffordshire terrier named Trina, to be precise—I can’t say that I love that a pittie is used as the weapon that kicks off the bloody Manson family takedown. At the same time, I feel a sense of … pride? If Tarantino is going to rewrite history, I’m glad a sweet pup like Brandy could be a major part in righting some awful wrongs with her giant, slobbering mouth.

    Brandy shows off the full spectrum of pit bull personality: the needy baby that just wants to cuddle you, the begging brat that can’t wait 10 seconds for food, the protective guardian that just wants to protect its pack. Naturally, Sayuri won the Palm Dog award at Cannes back in 2019. Performances like hers raise the question: When will the Oscars get on board and recognize all of our good boys and girls? —Sayles

    Best quote: [Pained hunger whines as if she’s never eaten before even though she’s about to dive into the biggest, most disgusting pile of dog food you’ve ever seen.]

    49. Budd, Kill Bill

    Played by: Michael Madsen

    The only member of the Deadly Viper Assassination Squad to get the best of the Bride is an old sad sack who works at a strip club and lives in a trailer. Budd’s ambivalent about most things except saving his hide and making a buck—he’s in a holding pattern, not too interested in his new life but not drawn in by the temptations of the old one, either. He thinks he deserves to die, but that Beatrix Kiddo does, too. He takes her out with a shot of rock salt but lets her live—maybe he even knew she could get out of her coffin (otherwise, what was that flashlight for?). Unlike Elle or Beatrix, he doesn’t have any real enemies to keep him going, just regret and frozen margaritas. But he’s compelling because he’s a man without a mission in a revenge movie—he’s desert-worn and cash-strapped and done with all the killing, until it comes creeping up to his trailer door and good old Budd gets pulled back in, for one last job. —Helena Hunt

    Best quote: “They say the number one killer of old people is retirement. People got a job to do, they tend to live a little bit longer so they can do it. I’ve always figured that warriors and their enemies share the same relationship. So now that you’re not gonna have to face your enemy no more on the battlefield, which r you filled with? Relief? Or regret?”

    Sony Pictures Releasing

    48. Pussycat, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Margaret Qualley

    A few scenes into Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood, during a chorale rendition of Charles Manson’s hymn “Always Is Always Forever” by a group of dumpster-diving teenagers, the camera pans and focuses on Margaret Qualley’s character, Pussycat. As the chorus hits, Pussycat’s expression drops, and her cheerful singing morphs into catatonic chanting—a clever foreshadowing of the film’s looming tonal transition from California whimsy to cultist dread. In this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it moment, the fever dream film that doubles as his love letter to ’60s L.A. reveals its biggest plot device and begins spiraling toward a rewritten history of Benedict Canyon.

    While far from the film’s most iconic character, Pussycat—the underage hitchhiker based on real-life Manson follower Ruth Ann Moorehouse—is perhaps its most important. If not for her alluring gaze and charming naivete, Cliff Booth would’ve never driven to a dilapidated Spahn Ranch and later (while tripping on LSD) sensed danger after a few familiar hippies arrived at Rick Dalton’s house with murder on their minds. Though Pussycat’s presence is necessary to write this revisionist history, I wouldn’t describe her arc as “redeemable”—cult crimes aside, placing one’s bare feet on the inside windshield of a car is worthy of life imprisonment without parole. —Daniel Comer

    Best quote: “GEORGE ISN’T BLIND! YOU’RE THE BLIND ONE!”

    Universal

    47. Archie Hicox, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Michael Fassbender

    This was a case of nominating a character for their contributions to a single scene, but it’s a doozy. At a tavern in Nazi-occupied France, some of the Basterds, including former film critic Archie Hicox, meet with German actress-turned-spy Bridget von Hammersmark (Diane Kruger). Unfortunately, the tavern is filled with drunken Nazis, and a suspicious Gestapo major (August Diehl) joins their table. What’s so great about this sequence isn’t just the inherent tension between the undercover Basterds and the Nazis, but the resigned acceptance from Archie when he accidentally gives himself away. (Said moment has since become a meme.) To know you’re moments away from death and react with such grace? Film critics were built different in the ’40s. All told, Inglourious Basterds gave Fassbender a memorable role at the start of his career—one that also allowed the actor to go out in a blaze of Nazi-killing glory. —Surrey

    Best quote: “Well, if this is it, old boy, I hope you don’t mind if I go out speaking the King’s.”

    46. Elle Driver, Kill Bill

    Played by: Daryl Hannah

    You can take your pick of any of the adversaries the Bride faces off with on her way to final boss Bill, but I’m partial to Daryl Hannah’s Elle Driver, whose cartoonish villainy looms over both Kill Bill installments. She cackles recalling people she murdered, reads facts about a venomous snake to a person dying from a bite by said snake, and enters the hospital room of her comatose enemy armed with a poison-filled syringe and a red lip. While being a cold-blooded assassin and looking hot doing it isn’t exactly unique in the Kill Bill universe, among characters whose costumes you see every year on Halloween, Elle is the only one who made it into a Sabrina Carpenter music video. Not bad for a bitch with no future! Plus, she’s the only Deadly Viper who may have survived her bout with Beatrix Kiddo—we don’t actually see her die on-screen. Yeah, she got her one good eye snatched out of her head and was trapped in a trailer with a deadly black mamba, but, y’know, at least she didn’t get her brain exposed by a katana. —Julianna Ress

    Best quote: “That’s right, I killed your master. And I’m gonna kill you too, with your own sword, no less. Which in the very immediate future will become … my sword.”

    45. Pumpkin and Honey Bunny, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Tim Roth and Amanda Plummer

    Mickey and Mallory from Natural Born Killers would take the crown for relationship goals if they weren’t murderous pieces of shit. Pumpkin and Honey Bunny are more deserving. They’re compassionate, protective lovers and innovative business partners. Sure, it’s Pumpkin’s idea to graduate from robbing liquor stores to coffee shops, but he came to that conclusion only after Honey Bunny suggested they steal wallets from customers on their last shakedown. (They made more money from the wallets!) They also operate inside unique, understood roles: Pumpkin handles the employees, and Honey Bunny runs crowd control the only way she knows how. (“ANY OF YOU FUCKING PRICKS MOVE, AND I’LL EXECUTE EVERY MOTHERFUCKING LAST ONE OF YOU!”) Pumpkin and Honey Bunny’s relationship is the only reason they make it out of their run-in with Jules. Honey Bunny is quick to aim her gun at Jules’s head after the initial kerfuffle, and Pumpkin keeps Honey Bunny cool enough for them to leave the shop unscathed and $1,500 richer. Power. Couple. —Gayle

    Best quote (Pumpkin): “I love you too, Honey Bunny.”

    Best quote (Honey Bunny): “I gotta go pee. I want to go home.”

    Warner Bros.

    44. Clarence Worley, True Romance

    Played by: Christian Slater

    Quentin Tarantino didn’t direct True Romance, but he did write it, which makes so many things about the movie fall into place. Like all the radical bloodshed and quippy patter. Or, come to think of it, lead character Clarence Worley’s whole deal. An eccentric loner with an estranged father, a job at a comic store, and an encyclopedic fixation on all things martial arts or rockabilly … sound familiar? It sure is lucky for Tarantino—I mean for Clarence—that all of those things are, as the movie incants, “so cool.” One moment Clarence is romancing some sketchy pretty lady named Alabama who is, unbeknownst to him, a call girl pity-hired by his boss to show the sad sack a good time. The next minute they’re happily, hectically married, two crazy kids in great sunglasses who are, oops, on the run with a duffel of drugs!

    Clarence Worley is earnest and murderous, a hep cat with nine lives—all of which could wind up being corny as hell in the wrong hands. Luckily for Tarantino—I mean Clarence—the character is shaped by the best ones: the great Christian Slater, at the peak of his charming, childlike powers, and the late director Tony Scott, whose personal soft spot for the aloha-shirted lug wound up saving Clarence (and giving us little Elvis, toddling around to Hans Zimmer’s lute tunes). But anyway, enough about the King. How about you? Baker

    Best quote: “I always said, if I had to fuck a guy … I mean had to, if my life depended on it … I’d fuck Elvis.”

    Universal

    43. The Bear Jew, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Eli Roth

    It’s a fine, if not less than fine, Eli Roth performance saved by a masterclass in character branding from Tarantino. Roth’s Sgt. Donny Donowitz is on this list only because of the baseball bat and the Bear Jew moniker. And that’s OK! Even Adolf Hitler (Martin Wuttke) gets sucked into the marketing funnel. The Führer demands that Donowitz never be referred to as the Bear Jew again after finding out that his Nazi trenches are gossiping that he’s some mythical, bat-swinging golem. That, of course, comes after we see Donowitz lay 19 bat swings—I slowed the YouTube video down to 0.5x speed and counted the sound effects—on a German soldier’s (Richard Sammel) head and body. It’s easily one of the most memorable moments in a film brimming with memorable moments, and that’s despite Roth going off on a technically incorrect celebratory rant immediately after the bludgeoning. Roth’s delivery is great, but if Donowitz were a true Bostonian, he’d know Teddy Williams was a lefty who couldn’t pull-hit for shit. Nuking a ball over the left-field wall onto Landsdowne Street was never in the cards for ol’ Teddy. (God, I love Reddit.) —Gayle

    Best quote: “Teddy fucking Williams knocks it out of the park! Fenway Park is on its feet for Teddy fucking Ballgame. He went yard on that one, on to fucking Landsdowne Street.”

    Universal

    42. Bridget von Hammersmark, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Diane Kruger

    A German film star who becomes a spy for the British, Bridget Von Hammersmark won’t let a petty little objective like “ending the war” cloud her exasperation with the men around her. After she’s been shot in a basement standoff with the Nazis—while a bullet is still lodged in her leg—her annoyance with suspicions about her loyalty temporarily overwhelms the pain. And even as she uses her fame to help sneak American assassins into a film premiere that Hilter will be attending, she balks at the expectation that she’ll reaffirm the Reich’s image of Germans as hearty outdoorsmen. Kruger imbues von Hammersmark with both the confidence that comes from staggering beauty and wide renown and the paranoia born from having double-crossed nearly everyone you’ve ever met. Basterds is essentially a series of confidence games, and no one, up to and including the movie’s iconic villain, is better prepared to win them. —Thompson

    Best quote: “I like smoking, drinking, and ordering in restaurants.”

    Miramax

    41. Nice Guy Eddie, Reservoir Dogs

    Played by: Chris Penn

    He doesn’t get a color; he doesn’t get a suit. But when Reservoir Dogs gets truly apocalyptic, it falls on Nice Guy Eddie—played by the almighty Chris Penn, tough-guy character actor extraordinaire whose presence is just as vital in True Romance—to deliver the Big Speech. With blood on his face and rage in his unblinking, blue eyes and the camera slowly zooming in. He is defending Mr. Blonde; he is extolling Mr. Blonde’s unfailing loyalty. He is screaming the words, “HE’S JUST GONNA DECIDE, OUT OF THE FUCKIN’ BLUE, TO RIP US OFF?” And then he pulls a gun, and his dad pulls a gun, and Mr. White pulls a gun, and Eddie screams, “LARRY, STOP POINTIN’ THAT FUCKIN’ GUN AT MY DAD,” and that’s the end of that. There are no small parts in Tarantino movies, just colossal actors who tear small-part-shaped holes in the universe. —Rob Harvilla

    Best quote: “If you fuckin’ beat this prick long enough, he’ll tell you he started the goddamn Chicago Fire. Now that don’t necessarily make it fuckin’ so.”

    Sony Pictures Releasing

    40. Sharon Tate, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Margot Robbie

    Quentin Tarantino created his own world parallel to ours—it just exists in his movies, but he says it’s the “realer than real universe.” He started by building out that world in his signature style, but now he uses it to rewrite our world. And Sharon Tate is his most compelling work of revisionist history yet. Margot Robbie glows as Tate. She is warm and kind and irrepressibly sunny, someone we want to keep watching even though she doesn’t say much. In the movie’s best moment, she watches her own scenes in The Wrecking Crew and looks back to see the audience laughing along. They’re caught up in the fantasy of the movies, just like we get caught up in the fantasy of Tate’s life, as Tarantino retells it. He’s celebrating Tate, and he’s looking back at us in the audience to make sure we’re just as in awe of her. That’s movie magic—making us forget what’s inevitable because we’re so caught up in a gorgeous fantasy. —Hunt

    Best quote: [Smiles serenely at the silver screen.]

    39. Daisy Domergue, The Hateful Eight

    Played by: Jennifer Jason Leigh

    For much of The Hateful Eight, Daisy Domergue is a literal punching bag for bounty hunter John Ruth (Kurt Russell), whose abhorrent behavior is supposedly justified by the evil deeds his prisoner perpetrated. As Tarantino would explain in interviews, he wanted the audience to feel uneasy about Ruth’s violence and, in the spirit of the movie, shift your allegiances between different characters. But when the other shoe drops and Daisy gets the upper hand, we see the monster within: She gleefully cackles while covered in Ruth’s blood as she ends his life, repeatedly (and exhaustingly) calling Samuel L. Jackson’s Marquis Warren the n-word. It’s a powerhouse performance from Leigh, who draws your attention with each menacing glare before going off like a powder keg. —Surrey

    Best quote: “When you get to hell, John, tell ’em Daisy sent ya.”

    Miramax

    38. Lance, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Eric Stoltz

    We’ve all known, pitied, been amused by, or purchased various goods from someone like Lance. In high school, we thought they were cool. In college, we sought their services. And in adulthood, we’re disgusted by their life choices while secretly envying them enough to quietly wish we could swap places for a day or two. Lance is witty, unhurried, and the main character in a depressing PSA about wasted potential.

    He’s seen things. He has stories. He’s forgotten a lot. He owns two or three colorless bathrobes that have never been washed. His apartment smells like bong water. He’s casually racist and sells heroin. All probably true. But he’s also living what some might call a dream, a childhood fantasy where sugary cereal, cartoons, and very little responsibility are for dinner every night.

    Lance has no boss except the customer. He doesn’t shave or regularly get his hair cut. He’s untethered from civilized society and probably doesn’t know his social security number. Whether you see any of that as a plus or minus, this might be the most familiar, realistic portrayal of an actual human being in all of Tarantino’s movies. —Pina

    Best quote: “Now this is Panda, from Mexico. Very good stuff. And that’s Bava. Different, but equally good. And that is Choco, from the Harz Mountains of Germany. Now the first two are the same, 300 a gram. Those are friend prices. But this one is a little more expensive. This one is 500 a gram. But when you shoot it, you will know where that extra money went. Now, there’s nothing wrong with these two. This is real, real, real good shit. But this one? It’s a fuckin’ madman.”

    37. Lee Donowitz, True Romance

    Played by: Saul Rubinek

    A thinly veiled evisceration of the titan producer Joel Silver, Lee Donowitz somehow bends caricature all the way back into remarkable specificity. There’s Donowitz’s powdered-donut caking of cocaine during a traffic stop, sure, but there’s nothing cliché about the character lamenting that he has more taste in his penis than the filmmakers who work for him. Rubinek’s performance is remarkable for drawing out, simultaneously and in equal measure, the emotional impotence of the ultrarich and the genuine menace they can still project. One of the funniest bits in Tarantino’s entire filmography is Christian Slater’s Clarence gushing to Donowitz about a Vietnam War movie he produced called Coming Home in a Body Bag; Donowitz expresses gratitude for “veterans of that bullshit war,” then shows Clarence dailies from the sequel, tentatively called Body Bags II. His outburst at the assistant who betrays him has earned its place in the Ringer canon. —Thompson

    Best quote: “You piece of shit. You can forget about acting for the next 20 years. Your fucking career is over. Take your fucking SAG card and burn it! You little cocksucker. I treated you like a son. You fucking stab me in the heart!”

    36. Major Marquis Warren, The Hateful Eight

    Played by: Samuel L. Jackson

    Major Marquis Warren isn’t Samuel L. Jackson’s most memorable Tarantino character, just as The Hateful Eight isn’t Tarantino’s most memorable film. However, Warren is still a great role for Jackson—and, of course, he absolutely nails it.

    Separating fact from fiction is at the heart of The Hateful Eight. And from Warren’s famous (forged) letter from Abraham Lincoln to his extremely graphic story about the day he killed Chester Charles Smithers, it isn’t easy telling the Union Army veteran’s truths from his lies. Warren is perceptive and calculated, which is crucial to his survival as a Black American in 1870 who makes his living as a bounty hunter. His distrusting nature also allows him to quickly recognize that something is amiss at Minnie’s Haberdashery when he arrives with his motley crew of travelers.

    These character traits all lead Warren to earn his place as one of just two survivors left standing at the end of the film, as what should have been a simple stay at a familiar lodge concludes in a bloody crime scene. (OK, so Warren is technically lying down, bleeding to death, at the end of The Hateful Eight, but he’s still breathing as the credits begin to roll. That fact alone puts him in a better spot than just about everyone else who appears in this movie.) The Hateful Eight won’t go down as Tarantino’s best film if and when he finally decides to retire from directing, and the movie’s dubious depiction of race relations—with Warren at its center—is one of the main reasons why it remains one of the filmmaker’s most divisive works. But Jackson and Tarantino’s collaborations always lead to entertaining results, as uncomfortable as they often can be. —Daniel Chin

    Best quote: “Anybody opens their mouth, gonna get a bullet. Anybody moves a little weird, little sudden, gonna get a bullet. Not a warning. Not a question. A bullet.”

    Sony Pictures Releasing

    35. Trudi Fraser, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Julia Butters

    Tarantino’s movies are full of tiny characters who unlock meaning and purpose within the protagonists. In the case of Trudi Fraser, the word “tiny” works in multiple ways: the 8-year-old Method-actor-in-the-making scene partner to Rick Dalton reminds him of the beauty of Hollywood after years within the system have ground him down into a loogie-hawking husk of a man, and she gives him a shoulder to cry on as he faces the harsh reality of time. Trudi and Rick’s conversation about Easy Breezy—the has-been character in Rick’s book, a stand-in for his career now and, as Rick puts it, Trudi’s “in 15 years”—is one of Once Upon a Time’s true grace notes, a bit of perfect rapport between Leonardo DiCaprio and the astoundingly precocious Julia Butters. But the second time Rick is brought to tears in front of Trudi is even better, when she lets the old man know that he can still bring it in front of the camera. “That was the best acting I’ve ever seen in my whole life,” she says. Rick’s not too old to notch a win, and Trudi’s not too young to know brilliance when she sees it. —Gruttadaro

    Best quote: “I believe it’s the job of an actor—and I say ‘actor,’ not ‘actress,’ because the word ‘actress’ is nonsensical—it’s the actor’s job to avoid impediments to their performance. It’s the actor’s job to strive for 100 percent effectiveness. Naturally, we never succeed. But it’s the pursuit that’s meaningful.”

    Warner Bros.

    34. Drexl Spivey, True Romance

    Played by: Gary Oldman

    The pitch is simple enough: a white pimp with dreadlocks who speaks a little bit like Trae the Truth and is obsessed with kung fu movies. Gary Oldman’s Drexl Spivey (again: Drexl Spivey) technically appears in two scenes of True Romance, but the first—a cocaine buy, dotted with detailed cunnilingus talk, that he reveals to be a setup—merely hints at how utterly bizarre but sincerely terrifying he’ll be in his real showcase. When Clarence (Christian Slater) shows up at Drexl’s home and essentially tries to buy the freedom of Alabama (Patricia Arquette), his new wife and one of Drexl’s call girls, Drexl treats a hanging lamp like an extension of his id, baits Clarence with an egg roll, and offers an eerily sober read of the nervous newlywed’s personality. That he dies is inevitable—and beside the point entirely. —Thompson

    Best quote: “He must have thought it was white boy day. It ain’t white boy day, is it?”

    Miramax

    33. Mr. Orange, Reservoir Dogs

    Played by: Tim Roth

    In Tarantino movies, the characters are always acting. There are the literal auditions and TV Western shoots; there are the innumerable bluffs and con jobs that drive the majority of his plots. (In True Romance, a pair of cops—listening to a life-and-death struggle through a concealed wire—literally exhort their cooperating witness to “Act, motherfucker!”) There is no better example of this than what has become known as “the commode story.”

    Tim Roth’s Mr. Orange, an undercover cop, is trying to establish his bona fides as a criminal and thereby gain the trust of the thieves he’s trying to catch. To do so, he’s given a literal script for a story about a close call with law enforcement in a train station bathroom. We see him balk at the length of the monologue; we see him run lines in his apartment; we see him adopt the mannerisms of this imagined small-time weed dealer, revising the character as he goes. And when he finally performs the scene, the fear he communicates is real—because he’s in the presence of real criminals, sure, but also because he’s finally embodying the role. —Thompson

    Best quote: “Excuse me for not being the world’s biggest Madonna fan.”

    32. Mickey and Mallory, Natural Born Killers

    Played by: Woody Harrelson and Juliette Lewis

    Tarantino can hate this movie all he wants. I still love it. Mickey and Mallory Knox are the best thing to happen to mass murder since Charles Manson. Woody Harrelson and Juliette Lewis turn the characters up to 11, too. The film itself is a bit of a drawn out mess, but Woody and Juliette somehow keep the film upright from start to finish. Insane, sicko performances from Tommy Lee Jones and Robert Downey Jr.—RIP to a true content king, Wayne Gale—definitely help, but it’s still the Mickey and Mallory show the whole way. Woody also finally parts ways with his receding blond locks for this movie, shaving his head bald on camera and never looking back—a transformational performance, truly. (If there’s a better way to call it quits up top, let me know. I’m nearing the end on the hair front and considering going full Mickey Mode. Wait, not full Mickey. You get what I’m saying.) —Gayle

    Best quote (Mickey): “I was thrown into a flaming pit of scum, forgotten by God.” OR “We all know we’re no-good pieces of shit from the time we could breathe. After a while, you kind of become bad.”

    Best quote (Mallory): “That’s the worst fucking head I’ve ever got in my life.”

    Columbia Pictures

    31. Stephen Warren, Django Unchained

    Played by: Samuel L. Jackson

    The development of Stephen Warren’s layered psyche and his life before Django Unchained doesn’t interest me much. Neither does his quisling nature, nor his acerbic one-liners delivered with aplomb by Samuel L. Jackson in an all-time comedic performance. No, what’s most compelling about Stephen is how he runs Candyland with an evil, subservient brilliance that stands in direct contrast to Django’s passion-driven defiance. Their dichotomy is the quiet catalyst of the film, lurking beneath the bluster of Calvin Candie and the bombast of Dr. Schultz.

    Their yin-and-yang relationship and give-and-take warfare culminate in a fitting final scene, wherein Stephen tosses aside his cane and delivers what he thinks will be one of his patented smart-ass rejoinders. “I count six shots,” he says, smugly assuming Django doesn’t have the ammo to finish him off. “I count two guns,” Django quips back. Stephen would die moments later as Django and Broomhilda rode off into freedom, but at least Tarantino afforded Jackson’s character the last words in this beef: “DJANGO YOU UPPITY SON OF A—.” Kaboom, out with a bang. —Comer

    Best quote: “Who the hell you callin’ snowball, horse boy?”

    30. Floyd, True Romance

    Played by: Brad Pitt

    When Pitt initially read Tarantino’s True Romance screenplay, it was because director Tony Scott had him in mind for a larger role. But ultimately Pitt—who has admitted that he didn’t quite “get” the movie at first—took a liking to this one loser named Floyd, a deadbeat roommate who is both an extreme chaos agent and also hella inert. (If you can’t spot the Floyd on the sofa, then maybe you are the Floyd.)

    Part Jeff Spicoli, part Kato Kaelin, Floyd uses his mind solely for fashioning bongs out of honey bears and positioning fans just so. He uses up all the toilet paper then has the gall to yell, “Get some beer! And some cleaning products!” He is chill with any and all gangsters who show up at his door, offering them a hit and telling them precisely (well, kinda precisely) where they can go find his roommate and his friend. He has a Rasta beret on his head and crumbs on his shirt and blood on his hands and he does not appreciate being con-den-scended to, man. Does Floyd live? We’ll never know, though I think that guy’s a survivor. What we do know is that his spirit lived on. —Baker

    Best quote: “Don’t condeNscend me, man. I’ll fuckin’ kill ya, man.”

    29. Pai Mei, Kill Bill

    Played by: Gordon Liu

    Every single crash zoom on this dude—and there really are so many of them—takes me out. Every stroke of his beard. Every put-down that he spits at the Bride in the course of her training. He’s such a gratifying homage to old-school kung fu movies as a sort of comic relief, yes, but also a tremendous teacher. And, really, I think the face of the balance that’s so well struck in Kill Bill: between gut-busting nonsense and brutal intensity. —Justin Charity

    Best quote: “It’s my arm now. I’ll do what I want with it.”

    Dimension Films

    28. Stuntman Mike, Death Proof

    Played by: Kurt Russell

    What do you mean you don’t know Stuntman Mike? Do you know the show The Virginian? He was Gary Clarke’s stunt double before he got the scar over his left eye, and then when that show eventually became The Men FromShiloh, he doubled Lee Majors. Still nothing? He was Robert Urich’s driving double for practically the entire third season of Vegas and he followed Urich to his show that came after, Gavilan! OK, if not Mike, then maybe his brother, Stuntman Bob? God damnit, never mind. Mike is the killer fucking psychopath who murdered women with his death-proof stunt car.

    Kurt Russell puts on a goddamn show in this movie. The writing raises the floor, but Russell breaks the roof of the character. How he eats the nacho grande platter, the awkward near-sneeze, the poem delivery, the “MY BOOK” rant—all of it. His mannerisms and delivery are so fun. He’s terrifyingly magnetic. And to finish with him sobbing like a baby and being passed around the three women for 37 punches and one roundhouse kick?! No notes. —Gayle

    Dimension Films

    Best quote: “Well, because there was a 50-50 shot on whether you’d be going left. You see, we’re both going left. You could have just as easily been going left too, and if that was the case, it would have been awhile before you started getting scared. But since you’re going the other way, I’m afraid you’re gonna have to start getting scared … immediately!”

    Miramax

    27. Butch Coolidge, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Bruce Willis

    Beginning with Captain Koons’s unforgettable story about the gold watch, which survived multiple wars (and some difficult hiding places) as it was passed down through generations of the Coolidge family, Butch’s chapter in Pulp Fiction might be its most outrageous. Butch, played by Bruce Willis, is an aging boxer who’s made a deal with Marsellus Wallace to take a dive in his final fight. But Butch double-crosses him, betting on himself to win instead, as he tries to leave boxing behind and skip town with his girlfriend Fabienne.

    Butch may not be as flashy or as memorable as some of Pulp Fiction’s other antiheroes, and he’s not a great guy by any means. He kills one man in the ring, then kills another man as he’s exiting the bathroom, and he doesn’t seem to feel the least bit bad about either. Butch also throws a TV and violently yells at Fabienne after he realizes that she’s left behind his precious gold watch at his apartment. But he still has a heart buried beneath his classic tough-guy veneer.

    Butch’s defining moment comes at the pawn shop, as he escapes his captors and faces a crucial decision: He could either run away and leave Marsellus to a pair of racist rapists, or save Marsellus from the horrific abuse that he nearly faced himself. Despite Marsellus actively trying to kill him, Butch chooses the latter. He grabs a katana off the wall and uses it to kill one of their captors, while leaving the fate of the other one, Zed, in Marsellus’s hands.

    When Butch returns to Fabienne on Zed’s motorcycle—sorry, Zed’s chopper—he tells her almost nothing about his ridiculous morning, or even anything about their new ride save for the fact that it belonged to Zed. “Who’s Zed?” Fabienne asks him.

    “Zed’s dead, baby,” Butch replies. “Zed’s dead.”

    Butch gets overshadowed by all the other iconic characters and performances that Pulp Fiction has to offer, but he still plays a central role in the film’s interconnected quartet of stories and remains a big reason why they all fit together so well. —Chin

    Best quote: “Zed’s dead, baby. Zed’s dead.”


    26. Ordell Robbie, Jackie Brown

    Played by: Samuel L. Jackson

    In a film oeuvre overflowing with sadistic, self-absorbed, peculiar-looking psychopaths, Ordell Robbie might take the cake. Born from the crime novelist Elmore Leonard (whose Rum Punch Tarantino adapted for Jackie Brown), he’s a menacing arms dealer slicker than a waterslide covered in olive oil. When his tongue can’t get him out of a jam, Ordell—in what might be the most devious and mesmerizing performance of Samuel L. Jackson’s career—lets his gun talk.

    Robbie’s violence shocks and disturbs. He’s a horror movie villain with a thin, six-inch long rattail dangling from his chin that screams “murderous sociopath.” His dark side is pitch black.

    Like all the most compelling bad guys in motion picture history, though, Robbie has dimensions. He’s unpredictable, entertaining, and astute. In between the merciless bloodshed, every other time he opens his mouth it’s hard not to nod along with whatever comes out. “A 44-year-old Black woman caught with less than two ounces, they calling that shit ‘intent’. The same thing happen to a movie star, they call it ‘possession.’” —Pina

    Best quote: “She’s my fine little surfer gal. You know, she ain’t pretty as she used to be and she bitch a whole lot more than she used to. But, she white.”

    25. Bill, Kill Bill

    Played by: David Carradine

    If you thought Beatrix Kiddo taking on the entire Crazy 88 felt like long odds, consider what Tarantino set himself up for with Kill Bill: Vol. 2. How could Bill—who had been absent for almost all of two whole-ass movies—possibly live up to his place at the top of the hit list, much less in the title? Kill Bill is a bloody, globe-trotting epic in which Beatrix skirts the line between life and death and enacts her revenge through unbelievable carnage. And at the end of her journey is just some guy sitting alone in his house. The showdown with Bill isn’t a boss fight. It’s a conversation that’s been a long time coming. And it only works because Bill works—because he’s not the outline of a villain, but strange and philosophical and eminently dangerous. Even in Beatrix’s story, Bill takes over the finale. He holds the cards. He tries to tape the pilot of a new Ringer-Verse podcast. His presence is undeniable. Bill had so much to live up to, and in the biggest moment of the biggest story Tarantino ever told, he delivers. —Mahoney

    Best quote: “I … overreacted.”

    Columbia Pictures

    24. Django Freeman, Django Unchained

    Played by: Jamie Foxx

    Django Freeman is a man of a few words, but when he does speak, the guy comes with some heaters. “I like the way you die, boy,” he says after ruthlessly shooting Big John Brittle in the chest, cleverly alluding to Brittle’s cruel whipping of Django’s wife earlier in the film. Django Unchained is a fascinating case study in screenwriting—a screenplay that won Tarantino an Oscar, mind you—because its protagonist doesn’t really go through a classic journey of growth. Yes, on the surface, Django changes enormously—he goes from enslaved to a free man and an elite bounty hunter—but emotionally, Django is unwavering. He is driven by the sole mission of rescuing Broomhilda and enacting revenge on the people who harmed her, and that remains a constant until the very last shot of the film. But Django doesn’t need to experience a spiritual evolution to go down as one of Tarantino’s finest characters—it’s more than enough to deconstruct the white savior narrative and take agency over his own destiny. Also, he’s very fucking good at shooting guns and dons several iconic fits over the course of the movie—that alone makes him a captivating presence to watch on the screen. —Aric Jenkins

    Best quote: “D-J-A-N-G-O. The D is silent.”

    Miramax

    23. Captain Koons, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Christopher Walken

    William Faulkner, reviewing his rival Ernest Hemingway’s lithe, symmetrical opus, The Old Man and the Sea, once managed, with stunning clarity, to sum up the work in a paltry two words: “His best.” I am here, in this character ranking, quoting Faulkner writing about Hemingway, to tell you the same thing about a ridiculous character sharing a very sad and very silly story to another character. His name is Koons. Even if the rankings don’t reflect it, in my mind, he’s the best of the film and of all the characters in Quentin Tarantino’s twisted cinematic mind.

    The reasons why are myriad. The way that Koons (a recently returned former Vietnam POW played by Christopher Walken) segues flawlessly through three generations of family and military history: the purchasing, protecting, and passing down of a wristwatch from father to son to grandson. The subtle hand gestures and peak-Walken inflection right before Koons tells a young descendant of these men that in the throes of captivity that child’s father hid this watch, “in the one place he knew he could hide something, his ass.” How Walken holds up the little gold watch, clenched (sorry) between his pointer, middle finger, and thumb, even as he lets loose a string of racial epithets and TMI revelations—the crowning sentiment of which is not that the man with the watch up “his ass” died of “dysentery,” but that Koons had picked up the mantle of said man, and “hid this uncomfortable hunk of metal up my ass” for no less than “two years.”

    No notes. His best. Required reading. Top of the mountain. Faulkner ended that review of Old Man and the Sea, by writing adroitly, “Praise God that whatever made and loves and pities Hemingway and me kept him from touching it any further.” Praise God, for both my and everyone else’s sake, that Quentin didn’t either. —Pryor

    Best quote: “Five long years he wore this watch, up his ass.”

    Miramax

    22. Mr. Blonde, Reservoir Dogs

    Played by: Michael Madsen

    Look, you ain’t gotta like him. It’s way better for your loved ones if you don’t! But Mr. Blonde—as portrayed with outrageously suave malevolence by Michael Madsen—is the most magnetic and disturbing and, above all, memorable presence in Tarantino’s merciless directorial debut (and yes, this is the sadistic guy who dances around and cuts the cop’s ear off). It is thus Mr. Blonde’s job to show you that in this universe, tremendous charm and garish ultraviolence are inseparable, and the presence you are most drawn to—look at how handsome he is; look at how cute he is, playfully wrestling with Nice Guy Eddie!—is gonna do the gnarliest shit you’ve ever seen on-screen that you’ll remember for the rest of your life. —Harvilla

    Best quote: “Are you gonna bark all day little doggie? Or are you gonna bite?”

    Columbia Pictures

    21. Dr. King Shultz, Django Unchained

    Played by: Christoph Waltz

    Dr. King Schultz is a German dentist turned bounty hunter with a faithful, nodding horse named Fritz. That alone tells you just about everything you need to know about the quirky duo who set the tone for Django Unchained the moment they arrive on-screen in the film’s opening scene. Schultz, played by Christoph Waltz, is loquacious, charming, and kindhearted. But he’s also a bit of an enigma to anyone who’s fortunate—or otherwise very unfortunate—enough to cross his path, a strange man who can at once be disarmingly polite and a ruthless killer. As the one responsible for freeing Django and training him to become a legendary bounty hunter himself, Schultz is crucial to Django’s hero’s journey, and Waltz’s scene-stealing performance as the former dentist makes that journey all the more captivating to watch unfold.

    Schultz, whose hatred of slavery ultimately gets him killed, couldn’t be more different from Inglourious Basterds’ Hans Landa, the infamous Nazi—known as “the “Jew Hunter”—whom Waltz played in Tarantino’s 2009 film. Waltz won Oscars for both supporting roles, showcasing the actor’s impressive range and ability to elevate Tarantino’s characters. —Chin

    Best quote: “Mister Candie, normally I would say, ‘Auf Wiedersehen,’ but since what ‘auf Wiedersehen’ actually means is ‘till I see you again,’ and since I never wish to see you again, to you, sir, I say, ‘Goodbye.’”

    20. Louis Gara, Jackie Brown

    Played by: Robert De Niro

    Considering that Robert De Niro left the ’90s with two Oscar nominations, collaborations with multiple auteur directors, and credits for some of the most iconic characters of the decade, it’s hard to say any role of his in that era is underrated. And yet his turn as the ex-con Louis Gara in 1997’s Jackie Brown reveals a layer to the legendary actor that isn’t appreciated enough: his ability to play a dumb, stoned-out shithead. Sure, Louis has a quiet rage building inside him that leads him to kill a woman in broad daylight during a money-smuggling job after she annoys him a little bit, and he’s stupid enough to confess this to the guy who will ultimately kill him for fucking up the job so badly. But if you don’t get on his nerves? Honestly, seems like a pretty chill dude to pack a bowl and watch some Chicks Who Love Guns with. You might just have to help him find where he parked his car afterward. —Ress

    Best quote:

    Ordell: “Is she dead?”

    Louis: “Well, I-I- … pretty much.”

    Miramax

    19. Mr. Pink, Reservoir Dogs

    Played by: Steve Buscemi

    Mr. Pink is the only goddamn professional in the heist operation. Mr. Brown and Mr. Blue die early. Mr. White is soft. Mr. Blonde is a headcase. Mr. Orange is a rat. Nice Guy Eddie is a daddy’s boy, and his daddy is a bad judge of character. Mr. Pink tags a few cops, identifies that they have a rat straightaway, and maintains a level head better than anyone through everything. It shouldn’t shock you that he’s also the only one who secured the diamonds and lived to tell the tale. (I know he probably served a long sentence after his off-screen run-in with the cops, but at least he survived!) That said, no one is without flaws: I disagree that Mr. Purple is a better name than Mr. Pink, and everyone should tip waitresses. —Gayle

    Best quote: “Uh-uh, I don’t tip.”

    Miramax

    18. Gogo Yubari, Kill Bill

    Played by: Chiaki Kuriyama

    Gogo Yubari had all the intangibles. She was a master of the meteor hammer and a top assassin in O-Ren’s operation at 17. Unlike the rest of the Crazy 88, Gogo didn’t crumble under the bright lights. She never let The Bride and her myth dull her fury or bloodlust, and there are many to this day (including yours truly) who believe she was robbed of a clear victory against Beatrix for *plot reasons.*

    In a film drowning in loving pastiche and visual flair, Gogo has managed to retain her place among the more iconic characters from Kill Bill. Before Suzanne Collins and Hunger Games pushed a 2000s dystopian movie about a group of Japanese students killing each other on a deserted island into the popular consciousness, Tarantino was on the ground floor. Chiaki Kuriyama’s portrayal of Gogo is a direct homage to her character in Battle Royale, as if Tarantino choppered Takako Chigusa from one murderous island to another. Both fictional women carry the same sense of righteous madness behind their eyes even as cherry blood drips from their sockets.

    Long live Gogo. The world didn’t deserve you. —Charles Holmes

    Best quote: [Sound of double-sided mace picking up velocity.]

    Warner Bros.

    17. Alabama Whitman, True Romance

    Played by: Patricia Arquette

    Introduced in dreamy, Badlands-aping voiceover, Alabama Worley (née Whitman) is the bleeding, beating heart of True Romance—and the prototype of Tarantino’s damsels in distress. She’s a Florida peach who’s too sweet to be a call girl and too innocent not to fall for the first nerd she comes across. She’s a comic book geek’s (and, we could assume, Tarantino’s) dream girl, as happy to watch kung fu movies in a dingy Detroit apartment as she is to go on the lam in blue cowboy boots and a cow-print skirt. But more than his fantasy, she’s also Tarantino’s very first bloody, avenging heroine. Like Beatrix Kiddo, Shosanna Dreyfus, and Daisy Domergue after her, Alabama gets put through the wringer (by a pre-Sopranos James Gandolfini—and even he can’t help but admire her gumption) before improvising her way to blood-soaked victory with a corkscrew, an Elvis bust, hairspray, and a lighter. She laughs through the pain, just happy to get back to her beloved—a lesson in Zen, or maybe just in settling for a good man who’d kill your pimp. —Hunt

    Best quote: “If you gave me a million years to ponder, I never would have guessed that true romance and Detroit would go together.”

    16. O-Ren Ishii, Kill Bill

    Played by: Lucy Liu

    When I first watched Kill Bill: Vol. 1, I thought, Surely the Bride won’t kill her. But, alas, revenge is a dish best served cold (Klingon proverb), and sometimes it leaves you feeling cold, too, as you watch the grand and graceful O-Ren Ishii slip to the ground, scalpless. O-Ren’s own revenge story is nested inside Kill Bill’s larger one, and we can see, in an alternate world, the Cottonmouth as the lead of her own bloody franchise, her red suit as iconic as the Bride’s yellow one, her plotting and path of destruction as bittersweet as her rival’s. O-Ren’s set piece is the grandest in the duology because she’s the worthiest opponent—and the worthiest opponents are the ones we least want to see go down. She was meant to rule the yakuza another day, and I think that in a different Tarantino story, she did. —Hunt

    Best quote: “Silly rabbit. Trix are for kids.”


    15. Marsellus Wallace, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Ving Rhames

    Marsellus Wallace might be the most quotable mob boss in cinematic history. He spends Pulp Fiction dispensing one piece of hard-ass wisdom after another. “The night of the fight, you might feel a slight sting,” he tells washed-up boxer Butch Coolidge as he’s paying him to throw his next match. “That’s pride fucking with you. Fuck pride! Pride only hurts, it never helps.”

    Marsellus is intimidating. He’s unflinching. And thanks to circumstances out of his control, he’s astoundingly vulnerable. There are few actors who can pull all those things together, and Ving Rhames is one of them. The way he plays off Bruce Willis in their final scene together—after Butch saves Marsellus from redneck rapists—is both crushing and life-affirming. “Yeah, we cool,” Marsellus says, ending their beef. The line, delivered with a mix of extreme pain and extreme relief, will stick with me for the rest of my life. —Siegel

    Best quote: “You see, his profession is filled to the brim with unrealistic motherfuckers. Motherfuckers who thought their ass would age like wine. If you mean it turns to vinegar, it does. If you mean it gets better with age, it don’t.”

    14. Mr. White, Reservoir Dogs

    Played by: Harvey Keitel

    Has there ever been a character as unsuited for his world as Loose-Lips-McGee White? I don’t believe his backstory. He’s lying. No repeat bank robber behaves like this. You meet a guy. He’s on a heist with you. He has an eerily well-rehearsed story about a drug deal and a commode. He wears a leather jacket. You’ve been told not to tell any of your posse members a thing about yourself. Your identity is kept so secret that you’re named after various colors and use prefixes like New York Times reporters. And you, knowing all of this, choose to tell this leather-jacket-wearing rando YOUR FUCKING HOMETOWN???????

    Friend. Buddy. Pal. What are we doing? You didn’t get even a teensy weensy narc vibe? Not with the clearance undercover jacket? Not even when the stickup fizzles because (as you said 50-fucking-leven times) there was very clearly a rat amongst you? Not even when Mr. Fellow Bankrobber takes the time to shoot (an admittedly batshit) coconspirator to save the life of a cop? Or when the guy who orchestrated the entire robbery—who you’ve known for years—tells you that buddy is a cop?

    Oh buddy. Mr. White, the Icarus of overly trusting robbers. Rest easy, sweet summer child. A great hang, but not long for this world. —Pryor

    Best quote: “You shoot me in a dream, you better wake up and apologize.”

    Universal

    13. Shosanna, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Mélanie Laurent

    Shosanna’s plot to eliminate the Nazi high command is so daring and inventive that you almost wish she could take credit for pulling it off alone (as satisfying as it is to see the Basterds gun down Hitler and make the whole cinema go boom). History might not remember Shosanna’s role in ending World War II, but we, the audience, can certainly appreciate her act of vengeance. Shosanna’s played expertly by Mélanie Laurent—a perfect blend of solemnity and snark that gives the character an effortless, detached cool. Her constant rebuffs of Frederick Zoller are a film highlight, yet Shosanna still displays a tinge of empathy after shooting the Nazi war hero—the realization that perhaps Frederick wasn’t just a uniform, after all, but a human being placed in a hopelessly dire situation. Unfortunately, it’s that very realization that gets Shosanna killed, but in true Tarantino fashion, it’s a gorgeous, cinematic death scene complete with slow-motion close-ups and a rousing score. —Jenkins

    Best quote: “If you are so desperate for a French girlfriend, I suggest you try Vichy.”

    12. Max Cherry, Jackie Brown

    Played by: Robert Forster

    “Sex is not part of my vision of cinema,” Quentin Tarantino said a few years back, and by and large, he’s stuck to that. With the exception of the Louis Gara–Melanie Ralston moments from Jackie Brown—which are largely played for laughs—and the sexual violence in the Pulp Fiction pawnshop scene, the very idea of sex barely exists in Tarantino’s filmography. (Foot massages, on the other hand …) Going further, there’s even very little romance in Tarantino films—the most famous Tarantino wedding ends with the bride getting shot in the head, which kicks off a yearslong, continent-crossing revenge spree.

    But within this largely loveless cinematic universe, there is one hopeless romantic: Max Cherry, the Jackie Brown bail bondsman who becomes smitten with the title character. You can see the moment when he fully falls for her: as Jackie basks in the sunlight, wearing a bathrobe while “Didn’t I (Blow Your Mind This Time)” plays from the nearby speakers. (It’s filmed as tenderly as any sex scene, showing that Quentin does have a romantic streak in him.) For all of Tarantino’s loud and brash characters, the reserved Cherry is one of his best—lovestruck enough to help Jackie with a lucrative confidence game but grounded enough to know he can’t follow her to Madrid. He’s worse off for watching her leave but better off for having met her. At least there’s always that Delfonics tape to comfort him. —Sayles

    Best quote: “Black’s fine.”

    Universal

    11. Lt. Aldo Raine, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Brad Pitt

    While he gets top billing, Brad Pitt’s Aldo Raine doesn’t have a lot of screentime in Inglourious Basterds; when he does show up, however, he makes it count. The commanding officer of the Basterds, Aldo is very clear about what he expects from his men: killing Nazis to the tune of collecting “100 Nazi scalps” each. Aldo makes for a fascinating foil to Christoph Waltz’s Hans Landa: loud, brash, and full of cigar-chomping swagger. It’s a role perfectly suited for Pitt, who dials it up to an 11 in scenes where he’s interrogating Nazis or attempting—and that’s being very generous—to pose as an Italian filmmaker. Watch Inglourious Basterds enough times, and you won’t be able to resist impersonating Aldo butchering the pronunciation of buongiorno. To which I say: Bravissimo, Brad. —Surrey

    Best quote: “Now, I don’t know about y’all, but I sure as hell didn’t come down from the goddamn Smoky Mountains, cross 5,000 miles of water, fight my way through half of Sicily, and jump out of a fuckin’ air-o-plane to teach the Nazis lessons in humanity. Nazi ain’t got no humanity. They’re the foot soldiers of a Jew-hatin’, mass-murderin’ maniac and they need to be dee-stroyed. That’s why any and every son of a bitch we find wearin’ a Nazi uniform, they’re gonna die.”

    Columbia Pictures

    10. Calvin J. Candie, Django Unchained

    Played by: Leonardo DiCaprio

    Quentin’s quintessential midwit—a cotton plantation owner who spends his smoke-filled, blood-soaked leisure engaging in sophomoric rationalizations of the cruel domination he exerts over the people he’s enslaved. Thank God this guy didn’t live to sign into Twitter. So sweaty and inadequate is Calvin J. Candie that he manages to humiliate the logic of the slave state while somehow thinking he’s its cleverest spokesman, that he’s in on the contradictions, that he’s no barbarian, that the people he’s enslaved actually love him and are better off with him, etc.; Tarantino gives us an enslaver who’s somehow more obnoxious than a dead-eyed and straightforwardly hateful cracker of the whip. —Charity

    Best quote: “Why don’t they just rise up and kill the whites?!”

    9. Winston “The Wolf” Wolfe, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Harvey Keitel

    In a universe of dopey henchmen, twitchy stick-up kids, and drug-addled trophy wives, Winston Wolfe is a competent and electric balm. If Pulp Fiction revels in the degenerate lives and loves of L.A.’s underbelly then Wolfe is the rare beacon of order amid the dysfunction.

    He’s met every type of Vincent and Jules, and their car covered in blood and cranium particles is far from his first. The potency of Wolfe is in his brevity and assuredness; he understands that every man is an “oak man” if you throw enough cash their way. There’s not a wasted word or movement, just the work. His plan isn’t exactly genius—clean the blood, cover the seats, go to the junkyard—which makes Jackson and Travolta’s reactions to it all the funnier. Keitel’s portrayal of the no-nonsense fixer teases an entire history that’s just out of reach of the film’s viewers. The singular joy of the character is that once you’ve met him, you can’t envision a Tarantino world without him. —Holmes

    Best quote: “Well, let’s not start sucking each other’s dicks quite yet.”

    Sony Pictures Releasing

    8. Cliff Booth, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Brad Pitt

    Cliff Booth is the kind of friend everyone wants. I mean, having someone who’s willing to drive you all around L.A. and actually makes it seem pretty fun is enough in itself, but he just seems like a good hang all around. He’ll have a Bloody Mary with you at Musso & Frank, fix stuff up around your house, and tell you you’re “Rick fucking Dalton” when you need to hear it most. He’s a laid back dude who doesn’t sweat the small stuff—even if the small stuff is, um, possibly murdering his wife—but he can kick the shit out of pretty much anyone. It’s the role that won Brad Pitt his first acting Oscar for a reason (even though that should’ve been his role in Moneyball, but I digress). And, yeah, he’s really handsome. To all the people in the audience who cheered when Cliff took his shirt off during my screening of Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood in 2019, this one’s for you. —Ress

    Best quote: *click click*

    Miramax

    7. Mia Wallace, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Uma Thurman

    She gets to be on the poster. She gets the “Son of a Preacher Man” intro. She gets an intercom and a home security system so she can say, “Go make yourself a drink, and I’ll be down in two shakes of a lamb’s tail.” She gets a line or two or three of cocaine. She gets the loving shot of her bare feet. She gets the $5 shake. She doesn’t get uncomfortable during uncomfortable silences. (“Why do we feel it’s necessary to yak about bullshit in order to be comfortable?”) She gets the urge to dance. She gets the dance contest trophy. She, uh, gets into a brief medical emergency. She gets jolted out of that brief medical emergency in the most harrowing and hilarious way possible. She gets to tell her dumb Fox Force Five joke. She gets away relatively unscathed. In the end, she gets taken out so she can do whatever she wants. Now, if you’ll excuse her, she’s got to go powder her nose. —Harvilla

    Best quote: “You can get a steak here, daddy-o. Don’t be a [draws a rectangle on-screen].”

    Sony Pictures Releasing

    6. Rick Dalton, Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood

    Played by: Leonardo DiCaprio

    Once Upon a Time … in Hollywood is a movie about the town’s intoxicating

    mix of failure and success; how one can’t exist without the other; how one man’s failure might be another man’s success; how success might seem like failure until you put on a different pair of sunglasses. Rick Dalton represents both sides of this coin. In one light, he’s a blubbering has-been; a knock-off Steve McQueen whose only real friend is his driver; a pretty face for the prettier hero to vanquish; a man stuck in spurs watching the world pass him by; a miserable drunk, eight god damn whiskey sours deep, who can’t remember his fucking lines. In a different light, though, he’s a legend. He’s the one who his next-door neighbor, Sharon Tate, is fangirling over. He’s the guy turning a guest spot on Lancer into an acting tour de force. He’s the one who gets the job done, god dammit. They don’t make ’em like him anymore, and that’s the point.

    He’s also a menace on the blender, and can work a flamethrower pretty well too. —Gruttadaro

    Best quote: [After using a flamethrower.] “All right, that’s too hot. Anything we can do about the heat?”

    Miramax

    5. Vincent Vega, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: John Travolta

    There’s a specific way that John Travolta delivers “They call it a Royale With Cheese” that feels conjured by the gods. Travolta elongates and luxuriates in the word “cheese” as if he’s making love to the noun. His character spent three years in Europe and the most important cultural exchange he can muster is explaining the difference in McDonald’s food items to Samuel L. Jackson. This is an L.A. bumpkin as charming as he is stupid.

    For the next two and a half hours, Vincent Vega proves to be one of the most ineffective gangsters in modern cinema. He accidentally executes a man in broad daylight, almost kills his boss’s wife, and quibbles with a mafia fixer sent to clean up his mess. At every turn it’s unclear what qualifications he has for this job, besides a dubious moral center and a raging heroin problem. And still there’s something lovable and magnetic about Vega—an off-kilter vibration that simultaneously clashes and harmonizes with the rest of the film. Travolta’s then-waning movie star wattage is warped into a character with seemingly no redeeming qualities besides his ability to do the twist. In essence, he’s “one charming motherfuckin’ pig,” in a world of filthy animals. —Holmes

    Best quote: “So you’re gonna go out there, drink your drink, say, ‘Goodnight, I’ve had a very lovely evening,’ go home, and jack off. And that’s all you’re gonna do.”

    4. Jackie Brown, Jackie Brown

    Played by: Pam Grier

    For a film like Jackie Brown, Tarantino’s homage to blaxploitation, it’s dope that he would write a role like this for a legend of that era like Pam Grier (Coffy, Foxy Brown, and Sheba, Baby) to really sink her teeth into. Jackie, a flight attendant, is mixed up with illegal arms dealer Ordell Robbie, smuggling money for him on flights from Mexico to the United States. She gets caught with money and coke by the detectives and agents investigating Ordell, and the one thing Jackie doesn’t want to do is more jail time. Jackie then concocts a dangerous scheme to fool Ordell into thinking she will help him smuggle in one large sum of money while having the feds thinking she is helping them when really, her ultimate plan is to make her exit with Ordell’s cash. Grier’s performance is perfect; she exudes cool, looks great, and steps into a unique role for Black women, especially in Tarantino films. Jackie made the plan, and Jackie took the risks. Grier stuck the landing, pulling it all together with a performance that most wouldn’t have seen coming in a film many wouldn’t have predicted that Tarantino would make. —khal

    Best quote: “I couldn’t wait to get home last night and wash the jail outta my hair.”

    Universal

    3. Hans Landa, Inglourious Basterds

    Played by: Christoph Waltz

    What if Hercule Poirot were a smiling Nazi? is a fucked-up premise, but the kind of fucked-up premise that can really take a movie places. Part of the magic of Basterds is that Christoph Waltz is so magnetic and Hans is so dizzyingly clever that you almost—almost!—want to see him put all the clues together. Then you remember what he’s after, and who’s hiding under the floorboards, and what’s at stake, but it’s too late: the giant grin has already left Landa’s face and you realize, slowly, that he had the answers all along. We weren’t watching the solving of a mystery, or even an interrogation; we were watching an evil, meticulous man carefully lay his trap. Tarantino built a whole empire on writing characters who can completely dominate the audience’s attention. None of them can match the absolute stranglehold that Hans Landa has over the opening scene of Inglourious Basterds, where he pulls high drama out of a glass of milk. A career-making performance, an all-time villain, and some of Tarantino’s finest, most twisted work. —Mahoney

    Best quote: “Ooooooooh! That’s a BINGO!”

    Miramax

    2. The Bride, Kill Bill

    Played by: Uma Thurman

    She’s a bitch, she’s a lover, she’s a stone-cold assassin, she’s a mother! She wiggles her big toe and bloodies her knuckles; she slices through a rival’s noggin like it’s the bulb of an onion. Before we ever learn the name of Uma Thurman’s revenge-bound, iconically icy-hot murderess in Kill Bill: Vols. I and II, we know her mainly as “The Bride,” a pregnant gal shot in the head during a massacre at her wedding rehearsal who wakes up in a hospital years later, hell-bent on getting even. And we also learn that she’s even better known as “Black Mamba,” a code name from back in her elite “Deadly Viper Assassination Squad” days. (Yes, that’s where Kobe got it from.)

    Whoever she is, though, wherever she comes from, The Bride’s retributive rampage is at once sprawling and precise, taking her from a squeaky-clean suburban kitchen to a swordsmith’s sushi counter; from a snowy Tokyo garden to a coffin 6 feet under. (It’s from that last spot that The Bride busts out while the audience finally learns her name, effectively resurrecting herself as Beatrix Kiddo from then on.) Thurman—who helped brainstorm the character with Tarantino while they were shooting Pulp Fiction, but who was no fan of the iconic yellow tracksuitplays her role with lithe power and menacing grace, her eyes narrowing as she sizes up her enemies and widening into saucers when she learns that she has a surviving child after all. As the two-part film ends, Beatrix Kiddo has another new nickname—Mommy—and no names left uncrossed. It’s enough to make one’s heart explode. —Baker

    Best quote: “You have every right to want to get even.” (Come on, QT: Pretty PLEASE bring the people Kill Bill: Vol III!!!!)

    Miramax

    1. Jules Winnfield, Pulp Fiction

    Played by: Samuel L. Jackson

    There was a moment, as preposterous as this might sound, when Samuel L. Jackson was in danger of losing out on the role of Jules Winnfield. Tarantino, who’d told Jackson he’d written the part for him, started toying with casting Paul Calderón. The brief fascination was killed when Jackson showed up for his final audition sipping a milkshake and eating a burger. “He was the guy you see in the movie,” producer Lawrence Bender told Vanity Fair in 2013. “He said, ‘Do you think you’re going to give this part to somebody else? I’m going to blow you motherfuckers away.’”

    Thanks to Jackson’s performance, Jules always displays that kind of diamond-level clarity. OK, he’s a hitman. So I can’t quite call him the film’s moral center. But the character abides by a strict code, even as he’s executing the schlub who crossed his boss. Every single thing he says and does feels like a big shot of adrenaline to the audience’s brain, yes, even right down to the way he eats a burger. That’s why Jules rules. —Siegel

    Best quote: “Well, there’s this passage I got memorized, sorta fits the occasion. Ezekiel 25:17: ‘The path of the righteous man is beset on all sides by the inequities of the selfish and the tyranny of evil men. Blessed is he who in the name of charity and goodwill shepherds the weak through the valley of darkness, for he is truly his brother’s keeper and the finder of lost children. And I will strike down upon thee with great vengeance and furious anger those who attempt to poison and destroy my brothers. And you will know my name is the Lord when I lay my vengeance upon thee.’”

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    The Ringer Staff

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  • The Ultimate Guide to Halloween 2024 in Chicago

    The Ultimate Guide to Halloween 2024 in Chicago

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    The Buffy pop-up in Wicker Park is among 20 great Halloween pop-ups. | Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    These bars and restaurants have plentiful tricks, treats, and spooky scares

    No, it’s not just you. It does feel like it’s way too early for Halloween to be right around the corner (Thursday, October 31). We suggest you get into the spirit and have plenty of ways to do it. From a hotel rooftop where horror movies come alive to a haunted house that comes with a warning, this year’s festivities aren’t for the faint of heart. Those looking for something a little less scary — specialty drinks and upscale Halloween-themed food at a fancy-pants cocktail lounge where costumes are required, perhaps? — we have you covered, too.

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    Lisa Shames

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  • Inside Bridgeport’s Smash-Hit Bakery With Long Lines Fueled by Strawberry Milk Croissants and Mexican Mochas

    Inside Bridgeport’s Smash-Hit Bakery With Long Lines Fueled by Strawberry Milk Croissants and Mexican Mochas

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    The lines form about an hour before the 9 a.m. opening time, with customers waiting outside Fat Peach Bakery hoping to grab a treat like a strawberry milk croissant. Owners David Castillo and Kerrie Breuer opened their small bakery on August 31 at 2907 S. Archer Avenue, replacing the former Bridgeport Bakery, a neighborhood icon for nearly five decades.

    The lines start early at Fat Peach.

    Judging by the long weekend lines, the neighborhood has embraced the change. Fat Peach specializes in laminated pastries, and they’ve quickly sold out of croissants and Danishes while open three days a week — Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Breuer’s strawberry milk-filled croissants, a play on Strawberry Quik, has been one of the stars. Another highlight is a mushroom Danish which uses a paste made of sous vide mushrooms and English cheddar mornay sauce. It’s then twice-baked with an enoki mushroom conserva.

    “It takes me forever to make all of that — I don’t know of any place that does that,” Castillo says.

    12 mushroom danishes on a tray

    Mushroom Danish

    A couple wearing aprons inside their bakery with baked goods in a case.

    Kerrie Breuer and David Castillo are Bridgeport residents.

    There’s no online ordering option, for now. Castillo and Breuer have thought about opening on more days, but they want to ease into any expansion plans. Castillo’s resume includes working for Sodexo at the Shedd Aquarium and with Hogsalt, working at Restoration Hardware in Gold Coast. He worked for Rich Labriola and at White Oak Tavern in Lincoln Park. Breuer moved to Chicago in June 2019 from North Dakota. Her background is in cake decorating and she appeared on Amazon Studios’ Dr. Seuss Baking Challenge. The two met while working together at a Chicago bakery. Castillo, a Mexican American, grew up in suburban Blue Island. Breuer grew up in North Dakota after being adopted from South Korea.

    Castillo visited Mexico City as a child, and the bakeries there — using simple ingredients and techniques — left an impression. He wondered why he couldn’t find similar pastries in Chicago. He credits White Oak’s opening chef, John Asbaty, with sharing a similar philosophy in using the best ingredients in his dishes. That showed Castillo that bringing those memories of Mexico City to Chicago was possible. But not everything is hyperlocal and they’ll source from all over. Sourcing tropical fruits, for example, is a challenge during midwestern winters.

    A pink sign for Fat Peach Bakery on a house with blue siding.

    Fat Peach replaces Bridgeport Bakery, which was open for nearly 50 years.

    The interiors of Fat Peach bakery.

    Most of the business is to-go, but there is seating.

    Putting together creme-filled croissants.

    Fat Peach specializes in laminated pastries.

    A tray of pastries

    Fat Peach was inspired by Mexican bakery culture.

    “This place is kind of a mishmash of the best flour, local flour, butter we can get,” Castillo says. “But we also we also like to use fruit in our pastry — because who doesn’t want that? It’s a nice reminder of, you know, how sweet life can be.”

    They’re using Four Letter Word Coffee, and for Fat Peach’s mocha, they’re mixing chocolate and cinnamon from Mexico in their syrups. They’re looking for ways to incorporate more Mexican flavors into their pastries, waiting to see what their customers toward.

    Breuer left Korea when she was 6 and grew up with a white military family in America. As a teen, she spent a year in South Korea, familiarizing herself with the culture (she jokes that she sometimes considers herself a banana). Flavors like red bean, sesame, and matcha could be incorporated into future pastries. There have been tasty experiments like a kimchi-pimento Danish with English cheddar, and roasted potatoes with rosemary. Breuer wants balanced flavors that work versus gimmickery.

    The couple looked at spaces for six months and had targeted a location in suburban La Grange, but that deal fell through. The two are Bridgeport residents and pounded after Castillo noticed a “for lease” sign. It wasn’t exactly a turnkey operation. Beyond cleanup, the couple needed to purchase some new equipment which they found via Facebook Marketplace.

    Kerrie Breuer fills pastries.

    Let there be quiche.

    As Chicago’s demographics change and tastes continue to evolve, Fat Peach has a different bent compared to its European-focused predecessor. Customers won’t find Bridgeport Bakery’s sausage and bacon buns (the bakery officially closed in October 2021). They might not find paczkis either. Castillo says he doesn’t want to lean on the Polish doughnuts to sustain business. He’d rather Fat Peach be busy with unique offerings regularly.

    As far as the name? Yes, it’s no longer stonefruit season, but nothing on the menu ever contained peaches. The couple just loves puns.

    “I feel like everyone, like, wants to have a fat peach nowadays — especially the ladies,” Breuer says with a laugh.

    Fat Peach Bakery, 2907 S. Archer Avenue, open 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • ‘The Apprentice’ Misses Its Target

    ‘The Apprentice’ Misses Its Target

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    In 2002, Donald Trump told Errol Morris that his favorite movie was Orson Welles’s 1941 classic Citizen Kane—an opinion that aligns surprisingly well with critical consensus. During the interview, Trump spoke candidly about Kane’s allegory of avarice and ambition, and where its story of a man trying to bend the world to his will intersected with his own legacy. He even offered a bit of passable formal analysis when discussing the famous sequence in which the protagonist’s self-imposed stint in domestic purgatory is visualized in a montage set entirely in his dining room. “The table getting larger, and larger, and larger, with [Kane] and his wife getting further and further apart as he got wealthier and wealthier … perhaps I can understand that,” Trump said. “I think you learn in [Citizen] Kane that maybe wealth isn’t everything. Because he had the wealth, but he didn’t have the happiness.”

    The sinister relationship between extreme wealth and extreme depression, and how the latter can metastasize into an all-obliterating megalomania, is an enduring American theme, and it’s at the heart—such as it is—of Ali Abbasi’s new Donald Trump biopic, The Apprentice. The film, which premiered earlier this year at Cannes, has already incited predictable ire (and threats of litigation) on behalf of its namesake, as well as complaints from one of its own financiers pertaining to its content: When former Washington Commanders owner (and Trump donor) Dan Snyder saw a rough cut, he reportedly walked out of the screening room. For a while, the media narrative was that no U.S. distributor would touch The Apprentice because the material was just too dangerous; in June, New York Times columnist Michelle Goldberg speculated that it would be suppressed for political reasons. Such well-publicized anxieties are usually just another form of hype, however, and the film is being released this week as a potential Oscar contender, as well as an election-season intervention against its antihero and his latest bid for the White House. The cinematic equivalent of an October surprise.

    That most of the revelations in The Apprentice are already a matter of public record is beside the point. Scripted by Roger Ailes biographer Gabriel Sherman—a journalist making his screenwriting debut—the film has been styled, aggressively and unapologetically, as a tactically unflattering portrait-of-the-mogul-as-a-young-man. Instead of a full life-and-times epic, we get a carefully curated series of snapshots, set in the 1970s and ’80s against the backdrop of a rapidly gentrifying but spiritually dilapidated New York City, whose downtown core is seemingly ready and willing to be rebranded by a real estate mogul with the will to put his name on anything above street level. Enter the 27-year-old Donald Trump, who, as played by Sebastian Stan, is savvy and charismatic but also doughy and unformed. The narrative through line is his molding into a killer at the hands of the legendary lawyer and power broker Roy Cohn (Jeremy Strong). Imagine Pygmalion with a literally porcine protégé. “You create your own reality,” Cohn tells his new client. “Truth is a malleable thing.”

    The incalculable wreckage left in the wake of Cohn’s life and career—and the tragic, seismic schadenfreude of a virulent public homophobe succumbing to AIDS behind the doors of his own lavishly appointed private closet—was already dramatized by Tony Kushner in his Pulitzer Prize–winning play Angels in America, which inventoried the self-styled Cold Warrior’s résumé as one of the masterminds behind McCarthyism, as well as a principal bogeyman in the Lavender Scare. That Sherman has brazenly borrowed his own script’s mentor-student dynamic—as well as the desolate poignancy of Cohn becoming a piece of collateral damage in his own scorched-earth prejudice—from Angels in America is perhaps fair enough: One of the functions of great works is to inspire variations.

    It’s also fair enough to think that, after providing decades of fodder for irony-mongers like Spy magazine and Saturday Night Live, a figure as monolithic as Trump warrants his own pop-Mephistophelean origin story à la Citizen Kane—a movie sufficiently weaponized to take the once (and future?) president down to size. But when Welles took on the right-wing newspaper baron William Randolph Hearst, he had plenty of stylistic ammunition. Welles was one of the greatest film artists who ever lived—a prodigy with the skill to make every mock-heroic close-up and muscle-flexing tracking shot count. When he showed the title character (played with bristling charisma by the director himself) refracted in a hall of mirrors, the image crystallized the concept of a man who contained multitudes while also being profoundly ordinary. It wasn’t just Charles Foster Kane that Welles had in his sights, but a culture where the ability to reproduce and project identity into infinity could potentially make demagogues of us all.

    That Ali Abbasi isn’t Orson Welles is, once again, fair enough. But after watching the ugly misfire of The Apprentice—a movie as slovenly and obvious as Citizen Kane is sophisticated and spacious, and which makes even the 2016 Funny or Die short “The Art of the Deal” look like, well, Citizen Kane—the question remains: How the fuck do you miss a target as wide as Donald Trump?

    There are few things more depressing than a cheap-shot artist who thinks he’s a marksman, which was the main takeaway from Abbasi’s previous feature, Holy Spider, a fact-based account of a serial killer preying on Iranian sex workers that trafficked in morbid sensationalism while cloaking itself in the vestments of moralizing social commentary. The opening scenes of The Apprentice, meanwhile, suggest a filmmaker aiming squarely below the belt in both senses of the word: When Donald locks eyes with Roy across a crowded dining room at Le Club, it’s framed as a diabolical meet-cute between a pair of anti-soul-mates, each in love with the archetypal idea of the other. It would be one thing if Abbasi showed the ability—or even the desire—to get inside the mix of self-infatuation and self-loathing driving this incarnation of Trump, but the best he can do is compel us to gawk at the people on-screen with cozily vicarious disapproval, secure in the knowledge that they exist across some vast chasm of history and experience. By clearly demarcating the line between their characters and the audience, Abbasi and Sherman sidestep the demands of genuine art, or even the honest vulgarity of a director like Paul Verhoeven, whose RoboCop burlesqued the cutthroat misanthropy (and unscrupulously privatized skylines) of the Reagan ’80s in real time without any pretenses to awards-season prestige.

    It may be that Sebastian Stan will find himself nominated for Best Actor early next year; hopefully it will be for his superlative work in Aaron Schimberg’s surreal comedy A Different Man, which channels the rage and alienation of a loner trapped in his own skin—and also the concept of New York as an emotionally parched hellscape—with exponentially more poetry and humor than The Apprentice. It’s not that Stan is bad, exactly. He plays the role as written, which is to say that he’s allowed to be (relatively) subtle in the first half of the narrative before swapping out any sense of naturalism for a collection of recognizable verbal and physical tics in the second. In theory, the performance is shaped around the idea that the version of Trump that’s come to dominate the public consciousness was gradually willed into being as a hybrid form of behavioral modification and performance art. But because Abbasi can’t abide anything like contradiction or complexity, the process doesn’t so much deepen the characterization as flatten it, stranding a gifted and resourceful performer in the no-man’s-land of sketch-comedy impersonation.

    As for Strong, whose casting is shadowed by Al Pacino’s phenomenal portrayal of Cohn in the TV adaptation of Angels in America (as well as his role on Succession), he’s reached the point—endemic to being a certain kind of great actor—where the nobility of his commitment to the bit is, paradoxically, what keeps him from actually nailing it. The most extraordinary aspect of Strong’s presence on Succession was how he managed to convey how a person as emotionally fragile and psychologically transparent as Kendall Roy could still be a mystery to himself and the people around him. Whether trying to live up to his best ideas or succumbing to his worst impulses, you could register the wires crossing behind the character’s eyes. The impression was of an actor building a character from the ground up as well as the inside out, and capturing something true about the multiplicity of privileged pseudo-visionaries hovering above us: that their lack of conviction gives them an ethical permission slip to support the most noxious causes imaginable (remember that Kendall’s flight jacket get-up while pitching “Living+” was based on Elon Musk). The difference with Roy Cohn, of course, is that he was a rabid, unrepentant ideologue—closer in spirit, if not self-presentation, to Logan Roy—and the only thing Strong can do with his interpretation of the role is clobber it (and us) so that every scene feels like he’s working a speed bag—a show of exertion that only intermittently syncs with Cohn’s own notorious showmanship.

    Beyond Stan and Strong’s strained double act, The Apprentice doesn’t have much going on at the margins; the ostensible emotional impact of the scenes depicting Donald’s courtship of, and progressively dysfunctional marriage to, the late Ivana Zelnickova (Maria Bakalova) is undermined by the same faux-austere grandstanding that marred the putative anti-misogyny of Holy Spider. Abbasi and Sherman clearly care less about what happened to Ivana than the fact that depicting incidents of psychological, physical, and sexual abuse helps them cinch what’s already an open-and-shut case against her husband. That same attitude pervades the film’s presentation of the social, cultural, and political realities surrounding Trump’s rise to power, which resorts to the laziest kind of shorthand—i.e., a brief cutaway to an irate Black man decrying Trump’s racist attitudes after a group of compromised city planners grant the latter rights to refurbish the Commodore Hotel—instead of trying to work through the attitudes that made such predatory, discriminatory practices possible. Instead of contextualizing Trump and Cohn’s relationship in the larger context of a nationwide swing to the right, The Apprentice simply inventories their monstrous actions (and appetites) while feigning clear-eyed impartiality. It’s one thing to craft a fable about bad men insulating themselves from the consequences of their actions beneath impenetrably stratified layers of wealth; it’s another to make a movie that feels trapped in a similarly hollow sort of echo chamber, saying the same basic thing over and over again until the volume and the redundancy become integrated on a molecular level.

    Near the climax of the film, Abbasi gives us the hypothetically potent spectacle of Stan lying supine and unconscious on an operating table during a nip-and-tuck—a clinical yet grotesque image that’s supposed to be the movie’s trump card. It is, indeed, a perfect visual metaphor. But only because it confirms The Apprentice as a purely cosmetic exercise, slicing away futilely at Donald Trump while ultimately confirming his indestructibility.

    Adam Nayman is a film critic, teacher, and author based in Toronto; his book The Coen Brothers: This Book Really Ties the Films Together is available now from Abrams.

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    Adam Nayman

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  • Chicago Chefs Raise $30K for Hurricane Helene Relief as Locals Prep for Hurricane Milton

    Chicago Chefs Raise $30K for Hurricane Helene Relief as Locals Prep for Hurricane Milton

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    Over the weekend, Chicago Chefs raised more than $30,000 to benefit Hurricane Helene relief efforts. The fundraiser, held on Sunday, October 6 at Chicago Q in Gold Coast, was a success, says chef Art Smith.

    Smith is from Florida, which was in Helene’s path, and the chef’s connection has led to the launch of a second fundraiser as another storm, Hurricane Milton, is forecast to hit Florida on Wednesday, October 9. As the Chicago Marathon will take place this weekend, Smith is holding an event so runners — and their supporters — can carb-load before Sunday, October 13’s run.

    The event will take place from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturday, October 12 on the second floor of Chicago Q, 1160 N. Dearborn Street. There’s a suggested donation of $65 with all proceeds going to World Central Kitchen’s hurricane relief efforts. Smith says he’s got a celebrity chef lined up to help at the event but can’t reveal their name due to security reasons.

    Milk Bar teams with Portillo’s

    As Christina Tosi’s Milk Bar is opening its first Chicago location, the bakery has already lined up a collaboration with another Chicago entity. Portillo’s, the Chicago street food chain with around 80 locations scattered in 10 states is, starting on Tuesday, October 8, launching the Portillo’s Chocolate Cake Cookie. It combines Portillo’s famous chocolate cake — which was the inspiration for the cake that appeared in Season 1 of The Bear, and a Milk Bar chocolate cookie. They’ll be available individually wrapped at Portillo’s or in multiples of six packed into a cookie tin available online on Milk Bar’s site.

    Portillo’s and Milk Bar are collaborating.
    Portillo’s

    La Gondola finds a new home

    Earlier this year, La Gondola closed its location inside a Lakeview strip mall after 40 years at 2914 N. Ashland Avenue. But ownership has found a new home inside a West Town restaurant with a menu of old favorites. Loyal customers can visit Mirella’s Tavern, 2056 W. Division Street, and find their old Lakeview favorites. Both Mirella’s and La Gondola coexist with the two parties working together.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Parachute Attempts to Pump Up the Volume in Avondale

    Parachute Attempts to Pump Up the Volume in Avondale

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    Welcome to the Scene Report, a new column in which Eater Chicago captures the vibe of a notable Chicago restaurant at a specific moment in time.


    Parachute HiFi opened without fanfare, and that’s not what folks would expect from James Beard Award-winning chefs Johnny Clark and Beverly Kim. Parachute was a tour de force, a stunning restaurant that showed both Korean flavors in a different light to Chicago and the rest of the country.

    But a decade after opening along Elston, and igniting Avondale as one of the hottest dining neighborhoods in America, Kim and Clark have shifted gears. Parachute HiFi marks their latest attempt at reinventing themselves. While they hope to eventually bring back Parachute in all its fine dining glory to a Downtown Chicago space, their focus right now is to bring back some fun to Elston. Parachute HiFi opened in early September at the former Parachute space, 3500 N. Elston Avenue.

    The Wait: Parachute was a fine dining restaurant and thanks to its Michelin-star status and notoriety in the Korean community, finding a table without a reservation was nearly impossible during its peak. HiFi moves away from that with more of a local community feel — they don’t take reservations. Don’t have plans? Find a barstool with your name on it. Need a quick weeknight dinner? Just walk in and grab a table.

    The Vibe: In some way, Clark and Kim’s restaurant down the street, Anelya, provided a blueprint for the next iteration of Parachute. Anelya serves Ukrainian comfort food and the Ukrainian music is essential in creating an environment that elevates a country’s culture that hasn’t been showcased too much in Chicago’s restaurant scene.

    Clark admits he’s a bit of an audiophile, having collected vintage speakers and visitors will see some of those pieces on display, and he’s ventured as far as exotic locales like Peoria to source. There’s a DJ booth at the front of the bar. Kim and Clark have no prior experience spinning records, but they planning on hosting themed music nights. But the couple isn’t handling all the music. In recent nights, DJs have played soul, funk, Japanese pop, French yeyé, and more.

    There’s a tradition of Korean pubs with tall beers, small plates, and karaoke. That’s something the Chicago area has been recently introduced to, with places like Miki’s Park in River North, and New Village Gastropub in suburban Northbrook. Parachute HiFi captures the casual nature of these pubs and it may remind customers of another Avondale institution across the street. Irish pub Chief O’Neil’s has been around since 1999 and possesses a come-as-you-are atmosphere. The original Parachute was family-friendly, an oddity for Chicago’s fine dining restaurants. HiFi, somehow even as a bar without a children’s menu, is even more so. It’s a throwback, like those Chicago pubs of yore, when children were taught that local bars were safe spaces, places they could find shelter if they were in danger and needed support. It’s Chicago tavern culture, don’t argue with it.

    What to Eat: They’re not pigeonholing themselves at Parachute HiFI. The menu features a mash-up of Korean, Chinese, Thai, Japanese, and more. The chefs have avoided talking about the food too much because they want to pique people’s interest without spoiling any surprises or having cynical folks making knee-jerk conclusions. While different from Parachute’s original menus, Korean food can often be misunderstood, and Kim remains sensitive to those conclusions, whether it’s complaints about prices or Koreans complaining that the food tastes different from what they grew up eating.

    Salmon nigiri and seasonal veggies with walnut ssamjang dip.

    Riff on pad Thai with Korean rice cakes.

    HiFi’s menu is tidy. The must-try starter is the salmon nigiri. It’s nice, light, and taste. A great snack. There’s a burger on the menu. It’s a double-griddled patty made with beef from Slagel Family Farm, well seasoned and ground with short rib. It comes sliced with bacon in a shallow pool of comte fondue. These types of fondue burgers seem to be enjoying a popularity surge, and thanks to the pickles, this one is a winner.

    Since our visit fell on a Wednesday, the bing bread — one of Parachute’s most beloved items, and a menu item of great consternation for the owners when it comes to labor and expenses — is back. The fabled items were removed from Parachute’s menu in 2022, but it’s back once a week at HiFi on Wednesday. It’s as good as fans will remember. Rice cakes get the deluxe treatment with a Thai tweak. The tteokbokki pad Thai — get it with shrimp — was stellar. The french fries, which come with banana ketchup, are also some of the better crispy spuds in town.

    What to Drink: There’s not a huge N/A menu, but plenty of wine — Kim and Clark made an investment in good wine at Wherewithall, and it’s apparent that commitment has spilled over to their other projects. There is also a nice selection of sool and sake. House cocktails include the Whisky Apple made with Granny Smith apples, and the Blueberry Pancakes made with brown butter mezcal, blueberry maple, and egg.

    Mind you, Kim says the menu has gone through some tweaks, so don’t be surprised to find a few changes.

    The Verdict: Kim and Clark badly want to give Avondale something locals will appreciate. The execution of their food is high level — here’s another reminder that Parachute was a Michelin-star winner. It was early in the night, so I can’t be certain, but it feels like HiFi needs to let its hair down a little bit and embrace the bar side. Confidence comes with experience. For example, a recent visit to New Village Gastropub showed a much more energetic vibe inside a much larger suburban space. Parachute HiFi packs a lot inside a tiny footprint, and the restaurant was open only for a few weeks when I went. Once the crew stops playing it safe and leans into its weird side, HiFi could be a home run. For now, it’s an intriguing experiment in rebooting a dining destination into a casual haunt.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Middle Brow Will Open a Second Location in Michigan

    Middle Brow Will Open a Second Location in Michigan

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    Middle Brow, the Chicago brewpub that earned a James Beard Award earlier this year as a semifinalist for Outstanding Wine and Other Beverages Program, is opening a second location in Michigan. Ownership is keeping the exact address a secret, but say they’ve signed a lease to take over a space off Red Arrow Highway in Sawyer, Michigan, about 50 miles west of Downtown Chicago. Sawyer is along Lake Michigan and is a popular tourist destination. Co-owner Pete Ternes says they’ll take over a one-acre plot where customers can enjoy the outdoors.

    “We’ve got the drawings done, and we’ve got a lot of the engineering work done,” Ternes says. “We’re putting out bids and getting permitting in place now. We think that by summer, we’ll be able to — you know, at the very least — throw some fun parties.”

    First established as a brewery in 2011, Middle Brow would open a brewpub in Logan Square, Bungalow by Middle Brow, and offer pastries, bread, and eventually Neapolitan pizzas, and those pies deployed farm fresh ingredients from Michigan, Indiana, Wisconsin, and Indiana. By relying on a farm where they’ll grow their own hops, barley, and other ingredients, the unnamed Michigan Middle Brow project takes a hyperlocal strategy to procure ingredients.

    With lighter lagers, saisons, and kolsches the brewery features the kind of brews that drinkers could enjoy while camping or by a lake, a kind of counterpoint to over-hopped beers that were once trendy. Middle Brow centers on yeast-forward beers and letting yeast ferment spontaneously: “It’s exciting and it’s weird and it’s risky, and it makes the beer taste like nothing else you’ve tasted,” Ternes says.

    Last year, Middle Brow expanded operations becoming Chicago’s first natural winery with refreshing wines that, again, shared the same commitment to using wild fermentation. Natural wine is made with minimal intervention that, in theory, better showcases the grapes from the region.

    Ternes promises the new location will contain elements of the Logan Square venue. There might be a small menu of fresh breads for the weekend, and doughnuts and ice cream. Middle Brow Logan Square offers Chicago-style tavern pizza on Tuesdays. Those pizzas won’t make their way to Michigan, but Middle Brow may offer Detroit-style squares as a limited special. Beyond bottles and cans of wine and beer, they’ll also have robust to-go offerings for travelers making a quick pit stop.

    Much of Middle Brow’s wines were made from grapes grown in Michigan with ownership often hauling tanks of juice back to Chicago in trucks filled with tanks. Middle Brow already has ties to the Mitten State. Ternes points out they buy hops from Hop Head Farms, which is about 50 miles south of Grand Rapids, Michigan. They also source fruit for various barrel-aging projects from nearby farms. Ternes recalls family vacations in Michigan City, Indiana; and Michiana, Michigan. The concept of farmhouse brewing, using hops and barley made on the same premises, was pioneered by companies like Allagash in Portland, Maine; and Jester King in Austin, Texas. Those breweries inspired Ternes and Middle Brow.

    Middle Brow searched for the right land but knew when they needed a record of success before investors and banks would fund their operations. Fourteen years later they’re in the position to open the way they intended.

    Middle Brow Sawyer, Michigan planned for a summer opening

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Chicago Gourmet’s New Normal

    Chicago Gourmet’s New Normal

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    Odds are few people remember the first Chicago Gourmet, which launched in 2008. Spread out over the Millennium Park lawn, the two-day event mostly became known for not having enough food and for attendees wearing high heels getting stuck in the muddy grass.

    But after 2020 and COVID, the festival has added a variety of food- and wine-focused events spread out over a few days in different venues. This year included a pickleball tournament featuring well-known chefs like Sandwich King Jeff Mauro and The Duck Inn’s Kevin Hickey. An outdoor fashion show at the Chicago History Museum in Lincoln Park accompanied a sit-down Italian dinner as part of this year’s fashion theme. Then there are the signature Chicago Gourmet events. Friday, September 27th’s sold-out Hamburger Hop featured 14 chefs.

    While aspects of the festival have grown, the main event in Millenium Park has shrunk, with Chicago Gourmet’s presence restricted to one day at the Harris Theater Rooftop. Saturday, September 28’s Grand Cru consisted of two sessions that featured some 20 chefs and their signature Chicago Gourmet dishes alongside several wine and spirits purveyors.

    Serafin Alvarado, master sommelier and director of wine education at Southern Glazer’s Wine & Spirits, a liquor distributor and one of the event’s sponsors, is a Chicago Gourmet veteran. “I’ve been part of this since year one when Mayor [Richard M.] Daley made Chicago Gourmet his initiative,” he says during the afternoon session.

    For him, the fest’s more relaxed atmosphere reflects overall changes in the wine industry: “The young consumer in particular doesn’t like the stuffiness and pretentiousness associated with wine,” Serafin says. “In order to attract the younger crowd, we need to be more creative and make it more welcoming without dumbing it down or losing the complexity of what wine means beyond an alcoholic beverage.”

    Publican Quality Bread’s Greg Wade with One Off Hospitality Group colleague Paul Kahan, and Rose Mary’s Joe Flamm.
    Chicago Gourmet

    In some aspects, the event is a love fest for organizers and sponsors. Tony Priolo of Piccolo Sogno in River West is another Chicago Gourmet veteran, having participated since the beginning. For him, it’s about hanging out with his peers as well as the charity aspect. “The Illinois Restaurant Association really supports our industry, and that’s why you’ll see all the great chefs in the city here helping out,” the chef says.

    One Off Hospitality Group’s Paul Kahan, the Grand Cru host, echoes Priolo’s thoughts about the association: “Especially during the difficult times of the pandemic, these guys were our lifeline,” Kahan says.

    Restaurants and chefs relish the spotlight to interact with potential customers. Coda di Volpe chef Jacob Saben has been part of some 10 Chicago Gourmets. His dish, a cacio di pepe riff on chips and dip, was garnished with steelhead roe from the Pacific Northwest, and spoke to Saben’s roots with “a little bit of Seattle meets Chicago vibe.”

    Dominique Leach of Lexington Betty Smokehouse in Pullman created a Korean-inspired smoked beef brisket bulgogi. She enjoys combining smoked meat with foods from different regions. Thai Dang, the chef of Vietnamese restaurant HaiSous in Pilsen, was a fan: “My favorite, honestly, is Dominique’s.”

    First-timer chef Chesaree Rollins of CheSa’s Bistro & Bar in Avondale brought two dishes that reflect the gluten-free food at her Northwest Side restaurant: a cajun lamb slider and New Orleans barbecue vegan meatballs. Rollins, who suffers from celiac disease called the event “an awesome opportunity.”

    Eric Rolden of Marina’s Bistro & Rum Bar in Uptown says his participation in the Grand Cru marked the first time for a Puerto Rican restaurant. He created a croquette filled with potatoes, ground beef, green pepper, and cilantro. “I want to show that our culture and food is beyond what people think it is.”

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    Lisa Shames

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  • The Definitive Ranking of Clowns

    The Definitive Ranking of Clowns

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    Here at The Ringer, Megan Schuster and I have spent years ranking things like movie monsters, sharks, and dinosaurs, all of which have a reputation for terrifying people. But we’ve never had a task as daunting as putting together a list of what are arguably the single-scariest figures in pop culture: clowns.

    In real life, clowns are meant to entertain children at birthday parties and circuses —to spread joy with laughter. In pop culture, however, clowns are primarily depicted as nefarious figures who torment and kill people. In fact, the biggest challenge while coming up with this ranking was trying to find good pop culture clowns. (Spoiler alert: It was slim pickings out there.) No wonder as much as 42 percent of Americans have at least a minor case of coulrophobia.

    Unfortunately, this ranking will not help the public perception of clowns as nightmare fuel—this exercise even led to many sleepless nights for your intrepid bloggers. (Clown-related trauma will be brought up at my next performance review.) Before we get to the ranking, a quick overview of the criteria: We capped the list at 30 entries, and if there were multiple interpretations of a character, they’d be roped together—also known as the Joker Clause.

    All right, Megan, time to send in the clowns. —Miles Surrey

    30. John Wayne Gacy

    Surrey: In the many years Megan and I have been doing these rankings, there’s never been an easier call to make for last place. One of America’s most notorious serial killers, John Wayne Gacy was responsible for 33 confirmed murders around Chicago, where he also performed at children’s parties as Pogo the Clown. (Remind me to never hire a clown for my nephew’s future birthdays.) Gacy’s atrocities have been covered in docuseries (Conversations With a Killer: The John Wayne Gacy Tapes) and film adaptations (Gacy), and there’s no escaping the fact that one of the reasons he’s received a ton of media attention is because he moonlighted as, of all things, a clown. Professional clowns already have to deal with bad PR from all the sinister characters in fiction; Gacy turned those fears into a terrifying reality.

    Schuster: The first time we’ve ever had a serial killer in these rankings—what a massive, horrible milestone.

    29. Happy Slappy, Air Bud

    Schuster: Happy Slappy’s real name (at least in the Air Bud–verse) is Norman Snively, and let me just say, the movie’s writers couldn’t have come up with a more appropriate moniker. Norman is a sniveling, creepy man who’s abusive to his dog, cruel to children, and all around a pretty terrible clown. He’s Buddy the golden retriever’s first owner, but after the dog embarrasses him at a children’s birthday party, Norman tries to drop him off at the pound. Snively only tries to get Buddy back once the dog has achieved local TV stardom for his play on the basketball court.

    Fortunately for all involved, Buddy winds up staying with Josh and his family; Norman is arrested; and, god willing, no one ever has to see the clown ever again. Though I admit I’ll continue to think about this thread from Norman’s Disney wiki page, in which someone earnestly asks, “If Norman hates being a clown, why can’t he just quit the job and find something else to do?”

    Surrey: This is the problem with getting a bachelor’s degree from a clown college.

    28. Jangles the Clown, Inside Out

    Surrey: A child’s mind is a place like no other, which Inside Out conceptualizes as a trippy workplace where different emotions take turns running the show. When Joy and Sadness enter a chamber containing the darkest fears of 11-year-old Riley, they encounter tree-sized stalks of broccoli and—gasp!—grandma’s vacuum cleaner. But the scariest sight of all is Jangles, a clown who traumatized Riley at her third birthday party and has been reimagined as a hulking, kooky monster. Jangles is the perfect embodiment of an irrational childhood fear, and in true Pixar fashion, he’s also got a wagon:

    Disney/Pixar

    Don’t shoot the messenger—I’m just calling it like it is!

    Schuster: Pixar, and Ross and Rachel’s kid in Friends: all about the ass.

    27. Binky the Clown, Garfield

    Schuster: In the Garfield comic extended universe, Binky the Clown is known for being loud and obnoxious and for having possibly the worst timing ever. In fact, in the show Garfield and Friends, Binky has a segment titled “Screaming With Binky,” in which his sole purpose is to disrupt situations that require precise movement or masterful concentration by screaming his signature catchphrase, “Hey kids!”

    Binky isn’t a particularly substantive character in either the original comic or the TV show—he’s more of a running bit, à la Itchy and Scratchy in The Simpsons. (Jon could be seen drinking out of a Binky the Clown mug at times, and Garfield once competed in a game show called “Name That Fish” that Binky hosted. Sidenote: how is “Name That Fish” not already a network show?) But Binky frequently serves as a comedic foil to Garfield, which is enough to get him on the list.

    26. Doink the Clown, WWF

    Schuster: Doink the Clown went through a number of iterations during his time in the World Wrestling Federation (now WWE). He was originally played by Matt Borne as a technically proficient heel—a sad-clown character who squirted children with fake flowers, attacked opponents with prosthetic limbs, and used tripwire in some of his many pranks. But over time Doink went through an evolution, and in later years he could be seen showing a kinder side: making children smile and teaming up with a miniature version of himself named Dink to battle WWE’s infamous villains.

    Sadly, though, after Matt Borne’s death in 2013, his family filed a wrongful death lawsuit against WWE claiming that the culture of the sport led Borne to suffer “illnesses and injuries, including depression and drug abuse, which ultimately resulted in his untimely death.” The lawsuit was eventually dismissed in a U.S. district court, and Doink is only sporadically portrayed these days by other wrestlers on the independent circuit.

    25. Captain Spaulding, Rob Zombie’s Filmography

    Surrey: There are two things you need to know about Rob Zombie movies: He will put his wife in every single one of them, and they’re gonna feature some seriously fucked-up characters. One such figure is Captain Spaulding, the proprietor of a dinky gas station and roadside attraction who first appears in House of 1000 Corpses. Named after a Groucho Marx character and played by the late Sid Haig, Spaulding is, in Zombie’s own words, a “lovable asshole,” which is, uh, certainly one way to describe a sadistic killer caked in clown makeup. To quote a gas station robber moments before Spaulding blows his head off: “I hate clowns.” Hard agree.

    24. Loonette, The Big Comfy Couch

    Schuster: Millennials, this blurb is for you. If you, like me, were a child and a PBS viewer in the mid-’90s, then you may remember The Big Comfy Couch and, more specifically, the clown (Loonette) and her doll (Molly) who hosted it. Now, I’ll admit that I’m fuzzy on many of the show’s finer details—was it just … about a couch that was comfy? Why did a clown need to host it? And what was the deal with said clown’s Wicked Witch of the East stockings?—but I will always vividly remember trying to re-create Loonette’s clock stretch on the floor of my living room. (Spoiler alert: It never went well. And yes, I did try it again just before writing this.)

    23. Circus Clowns From Dumbo

    Schuster: It’s wild how many clowns on this list are cruel to animals. The clowns in Dumbo, for example, are largely silent creatures, but they humiliate Dumbo during a circus performance in which a clown dresses like Dumbo’s mother and encourages the elephant to jump out a window. Dumbo is hesitant at first, but another clown comes up from behind him and smacks him with a plank, forcing him to fall into a tub of random goop.

    Dumbo eventually gets one over on the clowns in the end by flying and sending their whole routine into chaos—serves you right, jerks!—but this crew gives circus performers a bad name.

    22. “Crazy” Joe Davola, Seinfeld

    Surrey: Seinfeld is many things; scary isn’t one of them. But the six-episode arc of “Crazy” Joe Davola, an unhinged writer who blames Jerry for his script being rejected by NBC, feels like something out of Mindhunter. When Elaine unwittingly dates Joe and visits his apartment, she discovers an entire wall of photos he’s taken of her—including when she’s showered. (Unsurprisingly, Elaine pepper-sprays Joe and gets the hell out of there.) Later, Joe dresses up as Pagliacci, beats the crap out of some hooligans in Central Park, and reminds Kramer of his childhood fear of clowns. For a network sitcom, it’s genuinely freaky stuff. This is what my sleep paralysis demon would look like if I turned on the lights:

    Castle Rock Entertainment

    21. Flunky the Clown, Late Night With David Letterman

    Schuster: Flunky was a depressed, chain-smoking clown who first showed up on Late Night With David Letterman in 1985 to help Dave answer viewer letters. In his original appearance, the clown is described as the “flunkie who actually reads these letters for Dave”—only for viewers to be introduced to a literal clown backstage played by longtime Letterman writer Jeff Martin. In the letter, Dave is asked whether the author (who also goes by Jeff!) should go to Europe for the summer. Flunky responds: “Yeah, I got some advice. Don’t go to Europe, Jeff, stay in school or you’ll wind up like me, a pathetic old clown reading somebody else’s mail.”

    Good advice for us all!

    20. Laughing Clown From Happy Gilmore

    Schuster: Deep into the greatest movie of all time, a.k.a. Happy Gilmore, our titular protagonist is struggling with his short game. Who among us can relate? So Happy’s intrepid golf coach, Chubbs Peterson, takes him to Happy Land, a miniature golf spot that looks cute and fun on the outside but is actually filled with impossible holes designed to break your will to live. There, Happy knocks a ball over a fence, breaks various signage, and disappoints Lee Trevino. And that’s all before he squares off against The Clown.

    I’d like to think all of us have been personally victimized by a mini golf hole at one point or another in our lives. But more than 20 years after seeing this movie for the first time, I’m still haunted by this clown’s laugh.

    Honestly, “You’re gonna die, clown!” is probably the nicest thing Happy could have said in that moment.

    Surrey: I have a clown question, bro: How do you even get past this hole? Happy was putting perfectly and the clown kept closing its mouth on the ball. I’m all for obstacles, but this clown ruined the sanctity of one of America’s great pastimes.

    19. Jack, Jack in the Box fast food chain

    Surrey: I had no idea a fast food mascot could have fascinating lore, but the titular Jack of Jack in the Box has been through it. In the ’80s, Jack’s clown head was blown up in a commercial in which a sweet old lady shouts “Waste him!” in a truly deranged bit of marketing. (Considering the decade, I can only assume ad executives everywhere were tripped out on certain … substances.) However, when Jack in the Box’s reputation took a hit from an E. coli outbreak in the ’90s, Jack was rebranded as the “CEO” of the company and sought revenge against those who’d wronged him. Jack walked so Heath Ledger’s Joker could run:


    I’m not sure committing domestic terrorism is a great way to promote fast food, but I’m invested all the same. Megan, just imagine what Jack would do to his employees if they unionized.

    Schuster: I like that the rebrand is supposed to make him seem more competent, and then in the end the suit just makes him look like a knockoff Patrick Bateman. Oh, to be a fly on the wall of that ad agency.

    18. Homey D. Clown, In Living Color

    Schuster: Homey D. Clown was an incredible invention from In Living Color. The character, played by Damon Wayans from 1990 to 1994, is on a prison work release program where he is forced to clown for children—all while getting his thoughts out about “Whitey” and The Man. Rather than my trying to explain the full magic of Homey, I think we’d be better served by reading and hearing a collection of some of his best quotes.

    Obviously there’s his signature catch phrase: “Homey don’t play that.” But there’s so much more. During a birthday party episode hosted at “Home E. Cheese,” Homey welcomes the group to a place “where a kid can be a kid—unless he gets on my damn nerves.” Then there’s the time he stars in a commercial for “Homey Wheats” cereal: “So remember, little childrens, do what The Man says: Go out and buy yourself a box of new Homey Wheats, the only cereal made from cookies, marshmallows, sugar cubes, and other nutritional pieces of candy.” And finally, there’s the episode where he’s reunited with his son, Homey Jr., and sings him this lullaby:

    17. Twisty the Clown, American Horror Story: Freak Show

    Surrey: I was already conditioned to be freaked out by John Carroll Lynch thanks to Zodiac, where he played the man suspected—but never proved—to be the infamous serial killer. But then Ryan Murphy cast Lynch on American Horror Story and had him looking like this:

    FX

    Even in a ranking consisting (mostly) of clowns that’ll keep you up at night, Twisty’s appearance is no laughing matter.

    16. Sweet Tooth, Twisted Metal

    Surrey: There are a lot of unsavory characters you’d want to avoid in the postapocalyptic wasteland of Peacock’s Twisted Metal, but Sweet Tooth takes the cake. With a clown mask, the body of professional wrestler Samoa Joe, and the disarming voice of Will Arnett, Sweet Tooth is nothing if not unique: a chaos agent who gleefully kills people as often as he invites them to attend his one-man show in the ruins of Las Vegas. (True to his name, Sweet Tooth also drives an ice cream truck.) For what it’s worth, if we put together a Royal Rumble and threw all the pop culture clowns into the ring, my money’s on this guy.


    15. Fizbo, Modern Family

    Schuster: One of the best scenes of Modern Family is the introduction to Fizbo. It’s midway through Season 1: Luke is having a birthday party, and Cameron oh so innocently asks whether a clown will be performing.

    Cam’s told that no, there won’t be that kind of entertainment at the party. And Mitchell begs Cam to let it go, saying that if Luke wanted a clown, his parents would have already hired one. But as Cam stares at himself in the mirror and gets ready to celebrate his nephew’s big day, he can’t help himself. He whips out the makeup, puts on a red nose, and says, “Hello, old friend.” Enter Fizbo, the attention-seeking clown.

    From there, things take a twist. Fizbo threatens a man who was rude to Mitchell at a gas station; unintentionally terrorizes Phil, Luke’s dad, who has a previously undisclosed fear of clowns; and eventually saves the day via a cake delivery to the hospital where Luke ends up due to a rogue escaped scorpion. Fizbo may not have been properly appreciated in his time, but we support him—one of the actually nice, benevolent clowns on this list.

    14. Clown Doll, Poltergeist

    Surrey: Before malevolent spirits attack the Freeling family in Poltergeist, viewers will notice a clown doll kept in the children’s bedroom. This is its face:

    MGM Studios

    You don’t need to be a horror movie expert to understand that this thing is bad news, and sure enough, the possessed doll ends up attacking little Robbie Freeling. (The clown’s cheery smile also turns into an evil grin, which absolutely traumatized me as a child.) In fact, the image of Poltergeist’s sinister clown is so iconic that the 2015 remake led with it in the promotional material. One could say Poltergeist’s marketing wasn’t … clowning around. Sorry, I’ll see myself out.

    Schuster: How dare you, Miles; we all know clowns aren’t things to jest about.

    13. Buggy the Clown, One Piece

    Surrey: In the fantastical world of One Piece, the popular pirate manga recently adapted into a live-action series on Netflix, there are “devil fruits” that, if ingested, give someone special abilities. The show’s protagonist, aspiring pirate king Monkey D. Luffy, can stretch his body à la Mr. Fantastic; meanwhile, one of the first villains introduced in the series, Buggy the Clown, is able to split his body into pieces. (Like all the major characters in One Piece, Buggy is a pirate … who just so happens to dress like a clown.) As you’d expect, having Luffy and Buggy square off using their respective powers—one guy stretching like a giant stick of gum, the other intentionally turning himself into sashimi—makes for cartoonishly entertaining television. A favorite of One Piece creator Eiichiro Oda, Buggy captures the series’ offbeat tone in a nutshell: a little bit goofy, a little bit disturbing, and unlike anything you’ve seen before.

    12. Zeebo the Clown, Are You Afraid of the Dark?

    Schuster: This may be a good place to explicitly disclose that I am a journalist and have a massive phobia of clowns. (A conflict of interest, you say? Too bad!) Zeebo the Clown is a big reason why. I mean, LOOK AT THIS:

    Nickelodeon Productions

    Not only is he a terrifying figure, but he also had the crypto-bro eyes before that was even a thing. Hardest possible pass.

    Surrey: It happened to me: I’ve laid my eyes on Zeebo, and now I’m afraid of the dark.

    11. Pagliacci

    Schuster: The Pagliacci meme has been around for decades—and its roots can be traced back to the 1800s. For those unfamiliar, the meme stems from the story of a man who goes to see a doctor because he’s depressed. The doctor’s suggested treatment? “The great clown Pagliacci is in town tonight. Go and see him! That should sort you out.” The man then bursts into tears and responds: “But doctor, I am Pagliacci.”

    The story was referenced by a number of comedians after Robin Williams’s death in 2014. But the meme took on a life of its own in 2022—to the point that Wired wrote a detailed story about it. Over time, the meme has spawned many new iterations on social media. For example:

    MAN: I’m depressed

    DOCTOR: ok we can try lexapro

    MAN: hmm I was hoping more for like a clown recommendation?

    Another one says: “Man goes to see Pagliacci, goes backstage. Tells Pagliacci he thought the show would cheer him up, but he’s still depressed. Pagliacci says, ‘Oh well I’m just a silly clown. Shouldn’t you go see a real doctor?’ Man bursts into tears. Says, ‘But Pagliacci,”

    The meme isn’t quite as prevalent today, but for nearly a decade, the sad clown was an important internet reference point.

    Surrey: But Megan, how could you omit the greatest Pagliacci reference of them all?

    I may or may not have spent years doing a Rorschach impression because of this. It may or may not have gone down well with my (former) friends.

    10. Art the Clown, Terrifier

    Surrey: You have to be a sick bastard to seek out the Terrifier movies, so naturally … I have. For the uninitiated, the Terrifier franchise follows the twisted exploits of Art: a psychopathic, potentially unkillable clown who revels in finding increasingly creative ways to murder people. The deaths in Terrifier 2 were so gruesome that people apparently vomited and fainted during screenings, which didn’t stop the movie from becoming one of the greatest indie success stories of 2022. (For any curious sickos out there, here’s a link to one of Art’s most iconic kills; be warned, it’s gnarly.)

    Art has done for on-screen deaths what Stephen Curry’s 3-point shooting has done for basketball: He’s changed the game. The Christmas-themed Terrifier 3 is set to come out later this month, and if Art continues to one-up himself in the killing department, we’ll have to consider moving him up the rankings. Seriously, Megan, we have to. I really don’t want to get on his bad side.

    Schuster: Can’t believe we got a Steph Curry comp in a piece about clowns. Honestly, bravo to us.

    9. Bozo the Clown

    Schuster: “The World’s Most Famous Clown” came into existence in the 1940s; by the late 1950s, the character himself had become a franchise and was appearing in television markets across the United States. Bozo became a touchpoint for a number of future TV clowns, and he was even the inspiration for Ronald McDonald—fun fact: The first Ronald McDonald was played by Willard Scott, who’d previously played Bozo on WRC-TV in Washington, D.C. (More on Ronald later!)

    8. Killer Klowns, Killer Klowns From Outer Space

    Surrey: I mean, the title speaks for itself. Probably the only film in existence that could be described as “clownsploitation,” Killer Klowns From Outer Space is set in a small town that gets invaded by—wait for it—extraterrestrial clowns who capture humans for sustenance. The killer klowns have all the (circus) tricks in the book: cotton candy cocoons, balloon bloodhounds, pies apparently made out of sulfuric acid, and popcorn guns. They might not be nearly as scary as some of the other clowns on this list, but the killer klowns endure as B-movie royalty. (Be sure to check out Killer Klowns From Outer Space: The Game, and yes, that is a real thing.) Also, they’ve got a theme song that has no reason to go this hard.

    No joke, I’d put this on my wedding playlist.

    7. Ronald McDonald

    Schuster: As ubiquitous as the golden arches themselves, Ronald McDonald has become a worldwide fast food icon. The hair; the yellow jumpsuit; his crew of Grimace, the Hamburglar, and Mayor McCheese—these are all things many of us have been exposed to since we were children running around in PlayPlaces.

    Now, whether it’s a positive thing that a clown has lured children into consuming fast food is certainly something we could discuss. (Seeing an image of Ronald McDonald still makes me crave a Happy Meal, like I’m one of Pavlov’s dogs.) I suppose we could just pretend that millions of us haven’t been conditioned over the years by a multibillion-dollar corporation. Yeah, let’s go with option no. 2.

    Surrey: Is it just me, or has McDonald’s marketing basically abandoned Ronald and his crew? I’m worried this is a Five Nights at Freddy’s situation just waiting to happen. (To be clear: would watch a horror movie about Ronald taking out McDonald’s executives—and a crossover with Jack from Jack in the Box.)

    6. Insane Clown Posse

    Surrey: I have only nice things to say about Insane Clown Posse—because I’d hate to incur the wrath of the Juggalos. Great hip-hop duo, totally normal clown gimmick. Crank up that “Boogie Woogie Wu.”

    5. Harley Quinn

    Surrey: Going back to her first appearance in Batman: The Animated Series in the early ’90s, Harley Quinn has long served as the sidekick and love interest of the Joker—a worthy supporting player, but one who’s always ceded the spotlight to the Clown Prince of Crime. But one of the (few) good things about the 21st century’s superhero boom is that it’s allowed Harley to become a star in her own right. On the big screen, Margot Robbie has memorably inhabited the character in the DC Extended Universe (RIP), bringing a chaotic, charismatic energy to everything from fight scenes to a romantic montage with a fictional South American dictator. (Lady Gaga’s Harley has big shoes to fill in Joker: Folie à Deux.)

    Not to be outdone, Max’s Harley Quinn animated series is a hilarious love letter to the Batman universe, full of misunderstood villains just looking for acceptance—title character included. (Season 5 can’t come soon enough.) Even as superhero fatigue sets in, the strongest endorsement I can give to Harley is that her antics are never tiresome. What can I say? When she’s not snapping femurs, Harley just knows how to hit your funny bone.

    4. Krusty the Clown, The Simpsons

    Schuster: Here is a brief (or not so brief) list of some of my favorite Krusty the Clown plotlines on The Simpsons. In no particular order:

    • The time he’s investigated for tax fraud and fakes his own death by crashing his plane into a mountain, only to return after Bart reminds him that he’s “more respected than all the scientists, doctors, and educators in the country put together.”
    • The time he offers up Kamp Krusty as a summer getaway for kids, only to allow it to be run into the ground to the point that the kids are starving, they revolt against the authoritarian counselors, and Krusty is forced to make amends—by taking everyone on a trip to Tijuana.
    • The running bit where Krusty will endorse anything so long as it pads his bottom line.
    • The time he has an Alaskan timberwolf on his show and is told the wolf is spooked by loud noises. “Loud?” Krusty shouts. “That’s our secret word for the day!” The wolf goes on to maul Bart before losing in a fight to Groundskeeper Willie.
    • The time Bart becomes Mr. Burns’s heir and the two pay Krusty $400 to deliver them a pizza while his show is scheduled to go live; Krusty airs a rerun, saying “no one will know the difference,” only for it to be the episode where Krusty talks about the Falkland Islands being invaded.

    Fox

    Krusty forever.

    3. Charlie Chaplin

    Schuster: Charlie Chaplin didn’t clown in the way many of us are used to. He didn’t have a crazy wig, or a red nose, or a flower that squirted water into unsuspecting faces. Rather, his character, the one he played throughout his silent films, was much more simple—but no less effective. “That character wore the same baggy pants, the same black hair and knotted suspenders, in a 1914 skating rink as it did on a 1936 assembly line,” wrote Alistair Cooke in a 1939 edition of The Atlantic. “In the intervals between a score of pictures, the same cracked boots have been preserved in ether. Chaplin’s creation is a clown, and like that of all clowns his make-up is ageless.”

    The makeup was indeed ageless, as was Chaplin himself. His legacy in the world of clowning remains strong.

    2. Pennywise, It (2017)

    Surrey: The titular monster of Stephen King’s It has existed for millions of years, can shapeshift into any form, manipulates reality, and preys on its victims’ worst fears. So what does it say about our collective coulrophobia that this ancient, primordial evil spends most of its time as … a clown?

    Pennywise is responsible for the most memorable moments in It, including the opening scene, in which the monster goads little Georgie Denbrough into sticking his hand down a sewer drain before chomping down on it. Pennywise draws power from the fear of its victims; as a reader (and viewer), it’s easy to understand why the creature has successfully terrorized Derry, Maine, for centuries. I mean, who wouldn’t be scared shitless if a grimy sewer clown was making eye contact with you from across the street?

    Warner Bros.

    The good news is that, for all its supernatural abilities, Pennywise does have a fatal weakness. In It: Chapter Two, the Losers Club defeats Pennywise by confronting their innermost fears and belittling it as “just a clown.” That’s right, Pennywise suffered death by shit talking. Kids, take note: Bullying works.

    Schuster: I know who I’m seeking out if I’m ever confronted by Pennywise: the teens. Save me, Gen Z!

    1. The Joker

    Surrey: Is anyone surprised? One of the greatest villains of all time, the Joker has spent decades as a cultural phenomenon, which has been bolstered by the many talented actors—and also Jared Leto—who’ve played him. He’s the ultimate foil to Batman, and what’s most unsettling about the Joker is how many iterations of the character are nihilistic, unpredictable agents of chaos. The Joker cannot be reasoned with, and you can’t appeal to his humanity. He is, to paraphrase The Dark Knight’s Alfred Pennyworth, someone who just wants to watch the world burn.

    Really, putting the Joker at the top of the clown ranking was a no-brainer; the bigger debate to be had is which actor has given us the best version of him. Cesar Romero was a campy icon, Jack Nicholson set the standard for comic book villains, Mark Hamill is the definitive Joker in the world of animation, and Joaquin Phoenix has an Oscar and the second-highest-grossing R-rated movie on his résumé. But for all these worthy contenders (and also Jared Leto), it’s tough to compete with Heath Ledger, whose Oscar-winning performance in The Dark Knight managed to be menacing and mesmerizing in equal measure. (See: the pencil trick.)

    No matter how many times the character is revived, we can’t seem to get enough of the Joker terrorizing the innocent civilians of Gotham—and so the cycle continues with Joker: Folie à Deux. As a result, the Joker isn’t just a mainstay in popular culture: He always gets the last laugh.

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    Miles Surrey

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  • Inside Old Town’s Demure, Yet Mindful Modern French Fortress

    Inside Old Town’s Demure, Yet Mindful Modern French Fortress

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    Gavroche, a modern French restaurant from Jason Chan — one of the city’s most beloved industry figures — debuts in Old Town. The narrow space has been transformed into a cozy, yet comfortable 32-seat restaurant with a chef’s counter. The counter won’t be activated immediately as Chan says he hopes to provide guests with an omakase-style option.

    The chef’s counter service could include a la carte choices like hamachi nicoise, duo of foie gras, and turbot au four beurre blanc. Chan, who opened restaurants like Juno, Kitana, and Butter, says he scanned every menu from every French restaurant in Chicago. For the most part, they were the same, filled with classic fare. While Garvroche will honor the classics, Chan says there’s a new for contemporary cuisine to mimic what’s going on in Paris this minute. He’s brought on Mitchell Acuña to executive his vision. The chef is an alum of Boka, North Pond, and Sixteen. Chan is eager to see Acuña take chances and to give diners something they don’t expect. Chan tells Eater that Gavroche will either fill a nostalgic niche for customers who miss French haunts like Bistrot Margot — the French restaurant that closed nine years ago a few blocks south on Wells Street — or they’ll break new ground and draw a crowd excited to for something new.

    Classic opera cake is among three desserts on the menu from star pastry chef Christine McCabe. Beyond working at Charlie Trotter’s, McCabe has started a few bakeries including the Glazed & Infused doughnut chain and Sugar Cube, a sweets stall collaboration with Chan out of Time Out Chicago Market food hall.

    Chan says he isn’t done and has some ideas — perhaps a speakeasy-style bar that goes beyond just a gimmick entrance. For now, tour his latest and check out the menu. Old Town once more has a French restaurant, as Gavroche is open.

    Gavroche, 1529 N. Wells Street, open 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily, except closed on Tuesday.

    The garage door remains for better weather.

    It’s an eclectic space.

    A back wall with wine and a chandelier.

    A framed oval picture and two empty candle holders

    A bankers light with a book underneath mounted on a brick wall painted white.

    The wall of a bathroom with framed photos.

    The wall of a bathroom with framed photos.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Gene & Georgetti’s Tony Durpetti Championed Chicago’s Restaurants

    Gene & Georgetti’s Tony Durpetti Championed Chicago’s Restaurants

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    In 1997, Gene & Georgetti unveiled an expansion with two second-floor dining rooms that grew seating at the legendary Chicago steakhouse by 110. Owner Tony Durpetti paid big bucks for fire doors that separated the newly constructed building from the original that was erected in 1872.

    Durpetti would occasionally complain about the expenditure: “That’s $90,000 I’m never going to see again,” he’d tell his daughter, Michelle.

    The spend was worth it. In 2019, a kitchen fire raged through the restaurant, shooting up flames to the second floor. Michelle Durpetti recalls the conversation she had with the fire chief at the scene. He said they were lucky — the fire doors protected the 147-year-old building and kept the damage limited to the new space. The daughter waited until her father arrived to tell him.

    “I was like, ‘Let me talk about that $90,000 you thought you were never going to see again,’” Michelle Durpetti says. “And he’s like — literally — and this was my father, this was what he said all the time when something is, say, incredulous. He looked at me, he goes: ‘No shit.’ And that was him.”

    Gene & Georgetti Tony Durpetti poses in a second-floor dining room in 2014.
    Timothy Hiatt/Eater Chicago

    For 35 years Anthony “Tony” Aldo Durpetti had been an ambassador for Chicago’s hospitality industry, maintaining Gene & Georgetti’s iconic status after purchasing the River North restaurant from his father-in-law, Gene Michelotti (who died in 1989). Michelotti and Alfredo Federighi — nicknamed “Georgetti” — founded the restaurant in 1941. Durpetti and his wife, Marion, navigated Chicago’s turbulent restaurant scene with an eye on preserving Michelotti’s legacy.

    Durpetti died on Thursday, September 26, at Northwestern Memorial Hospital in Chicago from complications due to pulmonary fibrosis and Parkinson’s disease. He was 80.

    Durpetti’s customers included locals, politicians, and celebrities including Lucille Ball, Bob Hope, Mariah Carey, and Lionel Richie. Michelle remembers an evening drinking whiskey with Russell Crowe in 2000, right after Gladiator was released. Crowe was there for a gig with his band, 30 Odd Foot of Grunts. There are no photos — Durpetti believed in leaving celebrities alone and thought pictures might make them uncomfortable.

    Michelle Durpetti dances with her father on her wedding day.
    Gene & Georgetti

    Michelle says that over the last few days, the family has received messages of support from all over the country. Before the steakhouse, her father founded a national radio advertising firm that took him all over the country — New York, Philadelphia, Cleveland, San Francisco, the Carolinas, and beyond. Born on February 1, 1944, he also served as a sergeant in the U.S. Army.

    The Durpettis have plenty of family in Italy and plan on livestreaming funeral services on Thursday, October 3, from Assumption of Catholic Church, located just across the street from the restaurant. Gene & Georgetti will be closed for lunch for a private reception and reopen for dinner at 5 p.m. Dad, who enjoyed Beefeater gin martinis, wouldn’t want to miss out on a lucrative dinner service, Michelle says.

    Working in advertising, Tony Durpetti embraced a flair for gimmicks. Michelle says her father would routinely overbook the restaurant, forcing customers to wait at the bar in waves even though they booked reservations. Online reservation systems didn’t yet exist, but a crowded bar area made Gene & Georgetti a hot spot. As Chicago’s oldest steakhouse, Durpetti took on the challenge of keeping the space relevant as more restaurants and steakhouses opened and provided more competition.

    A man posing in a photo from the ‘80s.

    A younger Tony Durpetti.
    Gene & Georgetti

    “If someone waited for like an hour for a reservation, he joked, ‘Don’t worry, I’ll get you before breakfast,’” Michelle says, though she assures customers that the restaurant ditched this practice long ago.

    In 1994, Tony helped assemble a group of steakhouses across the country, forming an alliance called the Independent Retail Cattleman’s Association. The group would seek listings in airline magazines, grabbing the attention of business-savvy fliers who needed places to empty their business accounts. This was no ranking; they split the cost of the ads and would mix up placements every so often to avoid jealousy between restaurant owners. But the exposure worked, and the business drummed up by the “association” helped Durpetti pay off the loan for expansion within six months. That acumen helped make Gene & Georgetti one of the most successful steakhouses in the country, a fixture on Restaurant Business Online’s Top 100 Independents — a list of the independent restaurants that profit the most.

    Tony Durpetti’s philosophy was one of “mindful evolution.” During the pandemic, he briefly moved to Florida where the weather was easier for a senior citizen to manage. He would call in to check on the restaurant. His daughter and her husband, Collin Pierson, had quietly transitioned into running operations years ago. Michelle would joke with her father that she wouldn’t “jazz it up” too much, but the restaurant needed to evolve, and they would add more pasta dishes, leaning more into their Tuscan heritage. As his father-in-law was unable to fly due to his health, Pierson would drive him back and forth; the last trip from Florida to Chicago came in January 2024.

    A family of four in a cart.

    Collin Pierson with Tony, Marion, and Michele Durpetti.
    Gene & Georgetti

    Pierson manages the restaurant and recalls his father-in-law’s generosity. Years ago, while he and Michelle were in Barcelona, thieves stole nearly $30,000 in photography equipment, which would have doomed Pierson’s photography business if it weren’t for his future father-in-law’s immediate gesture to pay for replacement gear.

    A couple posiing

    Tony and Marion Durpetti posed outside their River North steakhouse.
    Gene & Georgetti

    Marion and Tony Durpetti on their wedding day.
    Gene & Georgetti

    Chicago’s restaurant world is in mourning.

    “He personified class and lived a daily life of hospitality. Watching him, showed us what this business should be. He set the bar for our generation,” wrote the owners of Piccolo Sogno, one of Durpetti’s favorite restaurants, on Instagram.

    Piccolo owner and chef Tony Priolo knew Durpetti for more than 25 years. He says when he first opened, Durpetti would walk around Gene & Georgetti’s dining room telling every table to visit Piccolo Sogno: “I would call him for advice and he was up always and there for me,” Priolo says. “He was an icon to our industry, he will be greatly missed.”

    Sam Toia, president and chief executive officer of the Illinois Restaurant Association, calls Durpetti a friend and icon and that “his advocacy of the restaurant industry was surpassed only by the genuine love and warmth he showered on his family, his team, and the countless guests he welcomed to Gene and Georgetti’s.”

    Durpetti was conscious of giving opportunities to women, using the phrase “glass ceiling” in conversations with his daughter. While he was the restaurant’s public face, Michelle’s and his wife Marion’s impacts could be felt throughout. “My grandmother (Ida Passaglia) was the first bookkeeper,” Michelle says. “This was a restaurant that was always run by women — it just looked like it was run by men.”

    Michelle Durpetti says that during the height of COVID, there were times when the steakhouse could have ceased operations. The establishment was evicted by its landlord in suburban Rosemont. Her father, who battled Parkinson’s for 15 years, would occasionally visit, boosting the morale of the restaurant. Michelle says her father didn’t realize but it was his meticulous financial planning through the years that enabled the steakhouse to survive the crisis the pandemic presented.

    As she recalls her father’s legacy, Michelle remembers being 18 and challenging her father at the restaurant. She didn’t care for his overbooking policy. He promptly fired her, telling her that she could only return after she accrued enough experience to bring something positive to the table. The ordeal wasn’t scarring; it gave Michelle Durpetti perspective, and in the end, Tony Durpetti trusted his daughter and son-in-law the same way Gene Michelotti trusted him to uphold the restaurant’s legacy.

    “Most people loved my dad,” Michelle Durpetti says. “If you didn’t like my dad, it was probably on you and not on him — and I don’t even say that because he was my dad. People just gravitated to him.”

    A visitation will be held on Thursday, October 3, at Belmont Funeral Home. A Mass will be held at Assumption Catholic Church.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Explore Ravenswood’s Newest Brewery Where Saisons Rule

    Explore Ravenswood’s Newest Brewery Where Saisons Rule

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    When Mike Schalau first launched Is/Was Brewing five years ago, a Redditor shared an image of the poster for the brewery’s release party with the note: “It’s a new project focusing on saison, so they’ll be making hazy IPAs in two weeks.”

    The demand for hazies has since cooled, but the Redditor’s remark still resonates with Schallau.

    “I’m not a petty person, but I saw that and I said to myself ‘hold my saison,’” he says.

    Is/Was still hasn’t released anything but saisons, and drinkers can try six different versions of the French/Belgian style at their new taproom at 5121 N. Ravenwood Avenue., which opened in August. Schallau, who lives in Ravenswood and has been contract brewing from Begyle Brewing, says he’d been eyeing the Malt Row building since Urban Brew Labs closed in 2022.

    The taproom is simply decorated with a colorful board on the exposed brick wall showing off the draft list. There are plenty of outlets in the curving booths to welcome locals who want to use the place for remote work along with a scattering of small tables and seats at the bar. A secondary space with room for 50 more is currently being used for overflow seating but Schallau is considering adding Skeeball or other fun activities.

    Delicate, yeast-driven saisons were Schallau’s favorite style when he first started getting into beer while working at West Lakeview Liquors, a shop at Addison and Leavitt that specializes in imported brews. But when Schallau joined Pipeworks Brewing Company, he devoted himself to learning and drinking their preferred styles — hoppy IPAs with high ABV.

    “As I went from an intern there to running all daily operations and overseeing recipe development, I’d kind of fallen out of love with making beer,” Schallau says. “I was kind of lost. Then I had a saison, La Vermontois, a collaboration between Belgian brewery Blaugies and Hill Farmstead in Vermont and I was like, ‘Ohh, I forgot. This is what I really fell in love with.’”

    He began experimenting with what would become his flagship, Will Be, seeking to fill a void in the Chicago market while appealing to evolving tastes. Most of Is/Was’ beers are about 3.2 percent ABVs, topping out with a rare 6 or 6.5 percent.

    A brick building with the words “Is/Was Brewing” on a rectangle sign.

    The back of a wooden bar stocked with glasses and bottles with a sign.

    “I think that a lot of craft beer drinkers are getting a little older and their palates are developing in a different way than when they wanted to drink super hoppy beers and really acidic kettle sours,” Schallau says. “Saison has these flavors that are really complex if you want to dive into what’s going on in the beer, or you can kind of crush a couple of them and they’ll be super satisfying and refreshing.”

    The taproom shows off the style’s versatility by pouring Is/Was’ Will Be, Wisp smoked saison, and Saison Effyrayant — which is conditioned with fresh sage leaves — along with rotating pours developed in collaboration with other breweries including Revolution Brewing. Schalau plans to start making some other styles once his new production brewery is up and running in about a month. Until then, there’s a selection of six guest drafts including Goldfinger Brewing Company’s flagship lager and Hop Butcher For The World’s Snorkel Squad double IPA.

    A hand holding up a goblet of red beer under a series of taps.

    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    A goblet full of beer on a wooden surface.

    “Instead of making a mediocre version (of a style), we’d rather get the best version from our world-class brewery friends,” Schallau said. “We want people who don’t like saison to have a good time.”

    To that end, the brewery also serves Shacksbury Cider, Dark Matter nitro coffee, and a blackberry shrub prepared with Mick Klug Farms berries and housemade malt vinegar. Schalau would like to see the brewery become a third space for the neighborhood and while he doesn’t have a kitchen, he’s already hosted a popup with Motorshucker and arranged a 15% percent discount for customers who want to pick up a Detroit-style pie from Fat Chris’s Pizza and Such around the corner. He’s also planning on hosting makers markets to show off works made by his employees and artists the brewery works with.

    Schallau says he’s been overwhelmed with the response to the opening, which brought lines out the door for nearly five hours.

    “I spent most of the last five years (brewing beer) in a 600-square-foot room without windows and most of that time I was alone, wondering if anyone was drinking it or if anyone even really cared about this thing that I cared very deeply about,” he said. “It was a nice way to kind of physically manifest the fact that people had been paying attention. It was pretty emotional.”

    Is/Was Brewing, 5121 N. Ravenswood Ave., open noon to 9 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday; noon to midnight on Friday and Saturday

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    Samantha Nelson

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