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  • Karen Read Tells Her Story (Part 2): A New Trial Looms in Massachusetts

    Karen Read Tells Her Story (Part 2): A New Trial Looms in Massachusetts

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    Read housed Yannetti, Jackson, Little, and herself in the same hotel throughout the trial so they could maximize preparation time. She paid $1.2 million leading up to and during the nine-week court proceedings between bails; accommodating, feeding, and transporting three lawyers; and hiring private investigators and experts. For that, she used her savings, about $500,000 from her since-depleted legal fund, and $400,000 donated by friends and family. She now has more than $5 million in deferred legal bills and a second trial looming.

    The first one was “trial on a budget,” according to Read. Since she couldn’t afford to fly out support staff from Jackson and Little’s firm, Read became the support staff herself. She negotiated rates with two Uber drivers to shuttle the team to and from court. Read is aware her team has been photographed exiting (discounted) SUVs and surrounded by (volunteer) security, and dining out (the bill often picked up by friends or family members). As for criticism that her team occasionally enjoys upscale restaurants, she says, “You try feeding Alan Jackson McDonald’s.”

    “We don’t typically work that closely with clients,” says Little, who became partner during trial due to her long hours. “But in this case, we needed every hand on deck.”

    “LOCK THIS WHACK JOB UP”

    About 10 months after O’Keefe’s death, the Office of the US Attorney for Massachusetts empaneled a federal grand jury as part of an investigation into an unspecified federal crime related to Norfolk County’s handling of Read’s case. The impetus is unknown; Levy will not comment on active investigations and, nearly two years into the probe, his team has not yet reached a conclusion. “When the FBI steps in, that usually is an indication that they are in possession of some information that is extremely damaging to the law enforcement agencies involved,” says Tom Nolan, a 27-year Boston police officer turned criminal justice professor at Emmanuel College who is not involved in Read’s case. Last year, the Alberts, McCabes, and other witnesses were subpoenaed to testify before the federal grand jury, according to state court proceedings.

    It is incredibly logistically complicated to pursue a federal investigation into an active state murder investigation—in part because two agencies are interviewing the same witnesses simultaneously. Zach Hafer, a former federal prosecutor and Cooley LLP partner, tells me, “I can’t think of a time in my 14 years in the US Attorney’s Office where that happened. Presumably, it’s some type of federal obstruction or witness-tampering investigation—a cover-up of some sort.”

    “In these types of cases, it is common for prosecutors to grant certain witnesses immunity to help them determine what happened and whether there is a provable federal crime. The US Attorney’s Office has always prioritized the prosecution of law enforcement misconduct,” says Hafer, pointing out that making false statements to a federal agent is a felony carrying a five-year sentence. “So even if an individual wasn’t guilty of the underlying offense—here, murder—lying about it after the fact to federal investigators is another potential charge.”

    Shortly before the trial began, the feds provided more than 3,000 pages of findings to the defense and prosecution, including Proctor’s texts about Read.
    A sampling:

    she’s a babe, weird fall river accent though, no ass

    She’s got a leaky balloon knot, leaks poo

    Waiting to lock this whack job up

    Hopefully she kills herself.

    The federal investigation found that Brian Albert destroyed his cell phone the day before receiving a protection order to preserve it and its contents. (Albert said the timing was a coincidence, and he was due for an upgrade.) Also: that on January 30, Higgins, the ATF agent who’d been at the Alberts’, asked another federal agent for advice on extracting phone data. Months later, he drove to a military base to dispose of his destroyed phone and SIM card. (Higgins testified that the target of a different investigation had found his contact information.) The feds also determined that Higgins went to the Canton Police Station—where he worked from—after leaving the Albert home, though he was off duty and had been drinking. (He says he was reshuffling cars.) He spent much of the following day, a Saturday when he was still off duty, there—passing through the garage where Read’s car was eventually kept—until about 6 p.m. The federal investigation found a 22-second call between Albert and Higgins at 2:22 a.m.—five minutes before McCabe’s alleged “hos long to die in cold” search. The men said that both the dialing and pickup of those calls were “butt dials.”

    Though the federal findings were disclosed, Morrissey appealed to Cannone days before the trial began to prohibit mention of the federal investigation in court, arguing that it would be prejudicial. Cannone approved the request, meaning Read’s lawyers could not so much as utter the letters “FBI” before the jury. When questioning forensic reconstructionists hired by the Department of Justice, for example, the most Jackson could say was that they were hired by an independent agency. Several jurors reportedly took that to mean they worked for an insurance company.

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    Julie Miller

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  • How Steve McQueen Became Hollywood’s Favorite Artist

    How Steve McQueen Became Hollywood’s Favorite Artist

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    Matthew Dentler, head of features at Apple TV+, appeared to be more personally invested in the picture than your typical movie studio head at a company with a $3.6 trillion market cap. He started discussing the project with McQueen “a couple years ago” and through the process they would text and call each other, bouncing off ideas. Dentler was at McQueen’s opening at Marian Goodman last September in LA. He’s hoping there’s time for a day trip during his next New York visit so he can make it up to Beacon to see Bass.

    “Obviously, we’re proud of the film, it’s been a rewarding experience to work with him and the team on this film—but I think also what’s been fun is getting to become friends with Steve,” Dentler said.

    The first trailer for Blitz dropped the same day that Dia’s Chelsea galleries opened for the season with three McQueen artworks, and there was a party for members that night. McQueen completed Bounty, a new installation of a few dozen photos of flowers in Grenada, quickly. He had gone to the island in July. In the same gallery was something much older: Exodus, which McQueen told me was technically his first film, even if he sat on it and didn’t show it until the late ’90s. I had heard about the piece. Apparently it came about when, during an amble through London carrying a camera, the young McQueen spotted two West Indian men in smart bowler hats carrying potted palm fronds and followed them, losing them only when they got on a double-decker bus. Was that true?

    “Yeah, that’s basically it,” McQueen said, staring at his first video playing on a loop on a ’90s-era block TV. “I just saw these guys and started following them around.”

    Most of the crowd that night gravitated toward Sunshine State, which had debuted in slightly grander form two years earlier at the HangarBicocca. In Chelsea it was a two-channel video installation projected on both sides, starting with two depictions of a smoldering sun that cuts to parallel scenes from The Jazz Singer, Hollywood’s first film with synchronized sound, about a cantor’s son from the Lower East Side who starts singing jazz and eventually finds Broadway fame. But when Al Jolson’s character starts applying the blackface that he wears onstage, his face disappears, and McQueen’s voice wafts through the room.

    “My father was called Philbert, a very Victorian name, and one of the last things he told before he died was a story…” McQueen says, the plummy disembodied voice hanging over the film.

    The story he tells is this: When he was a young man, Philbert McQueen traveled from Grenada to Florida on a job picking oranges, and one night after work McQueen’s father went to a bar with two other workers. When they walked in, everyone froze. The bartender told them he didn’t serve Black men. He didn’t use that phrase. One of the orange workers hit the bartender over the head with a bottle, and they fled into the night as the patrons chased after. McQueen’s father hid in a ditch, heard two gunshots, and stayed until morning, terrified, when he returned to work by himself.

    Michael Fassbender and director Steve McQueen on the set of Shame, 2011.From Fox Searchlight/Everett Collection

    “He never spoke to me about it before, until when he was going to pass,” McQueen had told me back at the Crosby Street Hotel.

    In the gallery, Matthew Barney listened, mouth agape. Louise Lawler sat with the gallery director Philipp Kaiser, who works at Marian Goodman, and Swofford, McQueen’s agent at CAA, was standing with Stigter as Joan Jonas stared deep into the monitor. After a few loops of the film, it was time to leave for dinner, and in the next room, McQueen was surrounded by the flowers of Bounty. The night before, there was a dinner too. The next day he had to fly to Milan, and in two weeks he’d be in London for the premiere—and in New York the next day for the film festival, and Los Angeles the day after that.

    Eventually, I found McQueen staring at the minute-long Exodus. “I love work, I just don’t love all the promotion,” he said.

    He turned away from the monitor to look at me.

    “As I told you, I’m not good with small talk,” he said. “All I have is my work, my family, a few friends you can count on one hand. I’m not good with small talk. All this small talk, you just have to cut it off.”

    For details, go to VF.com/credits.

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    Nate Freeman

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  • Stanley Tucci Answers the Proust Questionnaire

    Stanley Tucci Answers the Proust Questionnaire

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    The actor and author of What I Ate in One Year on face cream, Harry Styles, and why temperance is overrated.

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    Stanley Tucci

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  • ‘Saturday Night’ First Look: How the ‘SNL’ Movie Captures 1975’s Wild Opening Night

    ‘Saturday Night’ First Look: How the ‘SNL’ Movie Captures 1975’s Wild Opening Night

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    She answered questions not just from Reitman but also from the actor playing her, as did some of her former castmates. Garrett Morris bonded with Lamorne Morris, who’d actually been claiming to know Garrett since he was a kid. “Obviously we had the same last name, so I used to tell people that he was my dad, as a joke,” says the actor, who’s best known for Fargo and New Girl. Now that they’re friends, the 87-year-old Garrett is running with the gag. “He called me and said something about owing my mom a call because he’s not convinced that he’s not my dad,” Lamorne says. He feels there’s a genuine connection creatively: “Subconsciously, you are picking up cues from those before you. No matter what I do, at some point, it probably came from Flip Wilson, Garrett Morris, Richard Pryor, Eddie Murphy.”

    In the movie, Morris feels adrift and uncertain about this new endeavor. “Obviously, race plays a little bit of a factor in it, especially during those times when folks didn’t necessarily know if this was Lorne just trying to fill a quota,” Lamorne says. Also, Garrett was about a decade older than his costars, so there was a distance there as well. Lamorne notes that his predecessor was a Broadway singer and a playwright, among other talents: “His journey is, ‘Hey man, I got all these skills. I’ve been a part of the Civil Rights Movement. I’ve helped desegregate the acting unions. All of these things have happened to me, and here I am with all these kids telling dick and fart jokes.’ It’s like, ‘What am I doing here?’”

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    Anthony Breznican

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  • Everything You Need to Get Into the Olympic Spirit for Paris 2024

    Everything You Need to Get Into the Olympic Spirit for Paris 2024

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    This month, athletes from around the world head to Paris in hopes of inscribing their names in the annals of history during the Summer Olympics. Events will take place in and around the City of Light (the furthest out among them being in Teahupo’o, a village in Tahiti, French Polynesia, where surfing events will be held), transforming the city’s landmarks and surrounding areas. Temporary outdoor arenas will include the Château de Versailles for equestrian events, a development that nods to King Louis XIV who transformed the grounds between 1679 and 1682 to house his impressive fleet of horses. The Eiffel Tower will be the backdrop for beach volleyball; breaking will make its debut as an Olympic discipline on the Place de la Concorde, the city’s largest public square; while the gardens of Trocadéro will host men’s and women’s road-cycling races.

    From track-and-field paragon Florence “Flo-Jo” Griffith Joyner breaking the 200-meter world record twice in two hours in Seoul 1988 to the homecoming Games of Athens 2004, as captured in the black-and-white portraits that fill Last Heroes: A Tribute to the Olympic Games, the quadrennial trials bring the stuff of legend to each attendant and onlooker. Here, an ode to the trials, in equal parts Parisian flare and sportif exaltation, as a fresh crop of competitors ascend to the mount.

    Items selected by Nicole Chapoteau, Samantha Gasmer, Kia D. Goosby, Jessica Neises, Miles Pope, and Daisy Shaw-Ellis.

    All featured products are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, Vanity Fair may earn an affiliate commission.

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    Arimeta Diop

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  • How Donald Trump Echoes Joe McCarthy

    How Donald Trump Echoes Joe McCarthy

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    On one of my near-daily calls with my younger brother, who lives in Los Angeles, I mentioned my anxiety about November’s election—and maybe having to leave the country after it’s all over.

    “I might just want to have a small apartment in Canada or Mexico or something, just in case Trump comes back into power,” I said.

    He scoffed, albeit in a very loving and gentle way. “You know, the worst case would be something like what happened to Grandpa,” he said, pausing. “And you know that kind of made his career.”

    What happened to my grandpa, Howard Fast, is that his government deemed him a radical and in 1950 threw him in jail. Howard had been a best-selling novelist, whose books, like Citizen Tom Paine and Freedom Road, explored race, class, and revolutionary ideals. During World War II, he did his part for the US Office of War Information, writing and editing Voice of America broadcasts.

    But where Howard went astray, at least in the eyes of Senator Joseph McCarthy and his fellow red-baiters, was that he joined the Communist Party and refused to provide records of an anti-fascist organization to the House Un-American Activities Committee. This was a time of heightened fear and paranoia, just months after McCarthy delivered his infamous “Enemies From Within” speech in which he claimed to have a list of known communists working in the State Department. (And since history rhymes, later McCarthy hired as his chief counsel Roy Cohn, who would go on to mentor a young Donald Trump.)

    Howard spent three months at Mill Point Federal Prison, where he began what would be his best-known work, Spartacus. He was forced to self-publish because he was blacklisted, with his epic story of a slave uprising later immortalized onscreen by actor Kirk Douglas and director Stanley Kubrick. So yes, Grandpa became much more famous after being jailed.

    When I recently spoke to my father, Jonathan, who is also a writer, he noted that Howard’s appearance before the House Un-American Activities Committee made him a household name. “He was on the cover of The New York Times,” said my father. (A front-page Times headline from June 1950: “11 ‘Anti-Fascists’ Are Sent to Jail”). “Before that he was famous, but after that…”

    “But it fucked him up, right?” I asked.

    “I don’t know,” he responded. “I think he found jail scary.”

    Howard went on to write more than 80 books before dying in 2003, a year before The Apprentice would beam Cohn’s apprentice into the homes of millions of Americans, helping transform a cartoonish New York tabloid fixture into the image of a decisive business mogul and laying the groundwork for an unlikely path to the White House.

    Trump has made vengeance the cornerstone of his 2024 campaign. “I am your justice, and for those who have been wronged and betrayed, I am your retribution,” he told a crowd in March 2023. I wrote for Vanity Fair at the time how dangerous Trump’s behavior was, even as some pundits were writing off his chances of a comeback. He stepped up the menacing rhetoric in a Veterans Day speech. “We will root out the communists, Marxists, fascists, and the radical left thugs that live like vermin within the confines of our country, that lie and steal and cheat on elections. They’ll do anything, whether legally or illegally, to destroy America and to destroy the American Dream,” Trump said, later adding: “The threat from outside forces is far less sinister, dangerous, and grave than the threat from within.”

    I was already sure Trump would be terrible for democracy—we watched him sic a mob on the Capitol, after all—and that he had little regard for the rule of law. (The latter was made even more clear during Trump’s hush money trial in New York, where he was found guilty of 34 felony counts.) Not to mention, Trump’s continued demonizing of the media—a.k.a. “THE ENEMY OF THE PEOPLE!”—on Truth Social.

    But the November speech left me convinced that he would target his perceived domestic foes, with journalists among them. It’s not like Trump and his allies are hiding anything. Kash Patel, a close Trump ally expected to land a key national security role in a future administration, said in December on Steve Bannon’s War Room podcast, “We will go out and find the conspirators, not just in government but in the media. Yes, we’re going to come after the people in the media who lied about American citizens, who helped Joe Biden rig presidential elections—we’re going to come after you. Whether it’s criminally or civilly, we’ll figure that out.”

    Such a menacing scenario looks only more plausible in light of last month’s Supreme Court ruling giving presidents presumptive immunity from prosecution when carrying out “official” acts—a decision that could effectively put Trump, if elected, above the law. In her dissent, Justice Sonia Sotomayor argued that, by the conservative majority’s reasoning, a president would have immunity even if ordering “the Navy’s Seal Team 6 to assassinate a political rival.” Since that historic ruling, Trump has raised the threat level by amplifying social media posts calling for Liz Cheney, a Republican critic, to be brought before a televised military tribunal. Trump also promoted a post calling for various political figures to be jailed, including Biden, Kamala Harris, Chuck Schumer, Mitch McConnell, Nancy Pelosi, and Mike Pence.

    Now, whether I—a liberal writer, podcaster, and MSNBC commentator—would make such a Trump “enemies” list remains to be seen, and for the record, my second son thinks I’m being hysterical. But it’s certainly not out of the range of possibilities that visible members of the media, the types regularly warning against the dangers of Trump on social media and cable news shows, would be targets of a second administration hell-bent on revenge.

    I remember once, when I was young, asking my grandmother Bette about her husband’s time in jail. Toward the end of Howard’s sentence, she said, he started gardening, a peaceful image. She also told me how people used to throw rocks at her window during this period. Bette said that no one felt like heroes when all this was going on. She was raising two young children, and everything felt out of control. My grandmother wasn’t a wildly dramatic person. I knew if she was saying that, it had to have been bad.

    Growing up, I was aware that my grandfather and mother, the feminist writer Erica Jong, were of a strange species of political novelist. “Since I believe that a person’s philosophical point of view has little meaning if it is not matched by being and action, I found myself willingly wed to an endless series of unpopular causes,” Howard said in a 1972 interview, “experiences which I feel enriched my writing as much as they depleted other aspects of my life.”

    My grandfather truly believed that his political work was the best thing he ever did and took pride in his 1,100-page FBI profile for detailing “every—or almost every—decent act I had performed in my life.”

    If I were to seek some testament to leave to my grandchildren, proving that I had not lived a worthless existence but had done my best to help and nourish the poor and oppressed, I could not do better than to leave them this FBI report. In those pages, there is no crime, no breaking of the law, no report of an evil act, an un-American act, an indecent act—and I was no paragon of virtue, and I did enough that I regret—but the lousy bits and pieces of my life are nowhere in those pages, only the decent and positive acts: speaking at meetings for housing, for trade unionism, for better government, for libertarianism, for a free press, for the right to assemble, for higher minimum wages, for equal justice for black and white, against lynching, against the creation of an underclass, against injustice wherever injustice was found, and for peace, and walking picket lines, and collecting signatures.

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    Molly Jong-Fast

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  • Monica Lewinsky: In Praise of Alternate Endings, 10 Years After My First VF Essay

    Monica Lewinsky: In Praise of Alternate Endings, 10 Years After My First VF Essay

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    Never lose hope.

    “I love you. Bye, Felicia!” I texted my friend Katerina on October 27, 2016. The sassy send-off had been in the culture for two decades (a reference from the film Friday), but it had only crossed our transom that year. We used it affectionately and, therefore, ironically. Unbeknownst to me, it would be our last text exchange. She died unexpectedly on November 1.

    Our friendship had been a salvation in the latter half of what I now call my Dark Decade, roughly 2004 to 2014. Though that stretch of time included some moments of joy, they were few and far between. For the most part, I was in a sea of pain, coming to grips with what it meant to have been standing at the center of a political sex scandal in which I was opposing the most powerful man in the world. Coming to grips with the trauma that grew around me, like weeds, as a result of the public revelations of my private life, the ensuing media circus, an impeachment trial. Coming to grips with what my future might look like. Answer: It looked fucking bleak. I was unemployable. And I was Angry.

    Katerina, an entrepreneur and activist, was whip-smart about current events, world history, and spiritual matters. She had a roaring, infectious laugh. She was also kind. You would hardly know that less than a decade earlier, in a freak accident, she had broken her back in five places. After being reassembled with metal rods, she was told she’d likely never walk again. “Screw that,” she would say, “pun intended.” She didn’t lose hope and instead insisted on an alternate ending, prognosis be damned. With grit (and some luck), she recovered and did indeed walk again. And she walked tall.

    Our conversations spanned the personal and the political. In 2013, as Edward Snowden leaked classified NSA documents, exposing an array of methods the government and European allies used to spy on private citizens, Kat posited that 15 years earlier, the Starr Report had catapulted us all into what she termed the Age of Transparency. We’d had explosive disclosures in politics before: the Pentagon Papers, Watergate, Iran-Contra. But at their core, these were military, political, professional; 1998 was personal. A boss having an extramarital affair with a young subordinate. A politician abusing power. People, under oath, lying about sex. Rumors titillating the Beltway and beyond. All ordinaire. Almost quotidian. But this time was different. As the truth was made public, published in full on the internet, the personal behavior of a private citizen (me)—along with the actions of others, which had typically been obfuscated by power, gender, status, and wealth—was laid bare. And this transparency led to historical and cultural shifts.

    Kat made the point that after 1998, for better or for worse, becoming transparent meant becoming Seen—in new and sometimes disturbing ways. And year upon year, we began to peek behind the veil in all facets of life and culture, thanks to the Patriot Act, reality television, the truth about weapons of mass destruction, the advent of social media, Wikileaks, 23andMe, the UK tabloid phone hacking scandal, and on and on.

    Kat’s argument was compelling. And a year after Snowden’s data dump, 2014, I would find myself impacted by this Age of Transparency yet again, this time gratefully.

    Never lose hope.

    Ten years ago, after a decade of self-imposed silence in which I had retreated from a world that still shamed me, after a decade of involution and integration (and a fuckton of healing), I jumped back into the public conversation. With no safety net. And I found my voice…by writing for this magazine.

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    Monica Lewinsky

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  • The Global Crisis That No Border Crackdown Can Fix

    The Global Crisis That No Border Crackdown Can Fix

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    Photojournalist Go Nakamura witnessed desperation and determination in the border deserts of California and Arizona during reporting trips in November, December, and April, and captured how the US-Mexico border has become one site of an ongoing global crisis. The UN’s refugee agency estimates that nearly 40 million refugees and asylum seekers were displaced from their home countries as of April, which would break records set since the organization’s founding in 1950. While most of these people are living in refugee camps or on the margins of society in countries that are often struggling themselves, an increasing number are seeking a new life in America.

    Twenty years ago, the typical person crossing the US-Mexico border illegally—the one federal border policy was designed to catch—was a Mexican adult, traveling alone to find under-the-table work. But after the Great Recession, the demographics shifted: more Central Americans, more families, often seeking out border agents to ask for asylum. And in the last half decade, with new smuggling routes and lightning-fast social media word of mouth, it has shifted again. In 2023, the majority of people apprehended by US Border Patrol came from countries other than Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, and El Salvador.

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    Dara Lind

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  • Can Cricket Conquer America?

    Can Cricket Conquer America?

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    Last time cricket dominated American sporting culture, cholera was booming, Millard Fillmore was our nation’s most famous person, and trad wives were known, I’m guessing, just as wives.

    Since then, cricket has gone bananas…most everywhere else. Said to have originated as a children’s game in medieval England, it currently ranks as the second most popular sport in the world after soccer, with an estimated fan base of roughly 2.5 billion people. It’s almost a religion in South Asia, especially India, and also caters to massive crowds in Australia, South Africa, the UK, and elsewhere. Here in the US, meanwhile, a typical sports fan can tell you, at the absolute most, two things about the game: that matches can last up to five days and that, even then, they can still end in a tie.

    Now a coterie of big-money backers including Microsoft CEO Satya Nadella, Adobe CEO Shantanu Narayen, and Access Healthcare chairman Anurag Jain are looking to change that. All three have invested in Major League Cricket, the US men’s pro league that launched with six teams last summer.

    An additional Stateside boost is expected this June, when the International Cricket Council hosts the biennial Men’s T20 World Cup in the US and the West Indies. Then, in 2028, cricket will make its first Olympic appearance since 1900 at the Summer Games in Los Angeles.

    To understand why cricket appears on the cusp of a comeback in the United States—long after George Washington is said to have taken a few swings at Valley Forge—we should look at why it disappeared. With shorter games and less equipment, baseball surpassed cricket as a way for Civil War soldiers to pass their downtime. After Lee surrendered at Appomattox, those men returned to their hometowns and evangelized what would become known as America’s pastime.

    In today’s age of constant stimulation and compressed attention spans, Major League Baseball is fighting its own battle for relevance. New rules introduced before the 2023 season aimed to speed up play and appeal to younger fans. But a full two decades before the pitch clock, cricket responded to dwindling crowds by inventing an entirely new format known as Twenty20, or T20. Promising an action-packed three-hour competition in which ties are almost unheard of, T20 reinvigorated cricket interest around the globe.

    The upcoming Men’s T20 World Cup might just break international viewership records, and domestic audiences appear suitably intrigued. Tickets to the sold-out match between India and Pakistan on June 9 in New York have been selling on StubHub for upwards of $5,000. After a new world champion is crowned a few weeks later in Barbados, many of the game’s top international players—including South Africa’s Faf du Plessis, Pakistan’s Haris Rauf, and Afghanistan’s Rashid Khan—will stick around for season two of Major League Cricket.

    In the league’s inaugural season, MI New York (an affiliate of the Indian Premier League’s Mumbai Indians) defeated the Seattle Orcas in the championship match before a capacity crowd at Grand Prairie Stadium outside Dallas. This newly renovated cricket-specific facility, home to the Texas Super Kings, seats 7,200 spectators and meets the highest levels of international accreditation. But it’s one of only two venues that hosted matches in Major League Cricket’s first season. The second? A temporary stadium located in Morrisville, North Carolina…hundreds of miles from the nearest MLC franchise. (The remaining three clubs are based in San Francisco, Los Angeles, and DC.)

    As the shortage of playing grounds suggests, Major League Cricket faces considerable headwinds. A grueling international cricket calendar forces MLC to fight for talent as the sport moves its best players around the globe and among the top leagues. To make matters worse, its multi-week season conflicts directly with England’s professional season, while stars of the Indian Premier League—the sport’s preeminent pro league—are forbidden from moonlighting on other T20 circuits. And then there’s the challenge of luring American viewers, virtually all of whom are uninitiated in the ways of wickets and whites, away from the more familiar pleasures of Major League Baseball, Wimbledon, and the Tour de France.

    If Major League Cricket sounds like a moon shot, however, you’re looking at only half the picture. The league exists thanks to the fanaticism and efforts of 20 big-brained and deep-pocketed investors—a who’s who of business executives, tech entrepreneurs, and venture capitalists. These guys are all in. From former CTO of Dropbox Aditya Agarwal to Perot Group chairman Ross Perot Jr., it’s a group you’d be unwise to bet against. Those who grew up abroad have approached this project with a love for the sport they’ve had since childhood—and with resources they mostly have not.

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    Craig Coyne

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  • We’re Living in the Golden Age of Dad TV

    We’re Living in the Golden Age of Dad TV

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    Sure, middle-aged men have never exactly been underserved by Hollywood. But TV has gone overboard this year, offering a smorgasbord of muscular historical-fiction series tailor-made for fathers. Which one is right for your dad?

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    Hillary Busis

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  • How Zero Bond Became Postpandemic New York’s Celebrity Playground of Choice

    How Zero Bond Became Postpandemic New York’s Celebrity Playground of Choice

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    Then there was the Adams campaign. The future mayor hung out with James Harden and La La Anthony one night, Strauss and Tepperberg until 1:30 a.m. the next, and Charli and Dixie D’Amelio the next. And each time, he was brought to the club by member Ronn Torossian, the controversial PR maven who’s repped the Eric Trump Foundation and Girls Gone Wild founder Joe Francis.

    Torossian’s close with Sartiano too.

    “I’ve known him more than 20 years, and in many ways he’s one of these quiet geniuses you never see coming,” Torossian told me.

    Zero Bond has quite the legit collection of art on the walls. Andy Warhol and Keith Haring were easy choices, given the NoHo connection: The Andy Warhol Foundation is a block away, and the Keith Haring Foundation is housed in his former studio on the fifth floor of 676 Broadway—the building directly next to Zero Bond. But Sartiano went a step further and asked Gagosian sales and artist liaison Sophia Cohen, daughter of Mets owner and hedge fund billionaire Steve Cohen, to curate a pretty serious contemporary art program.

    Cohen said that Sartiano reminds her of giant titans of industry in terms of his skill for delegation.

    “The reason why Zero Bond’s so successful is that Scott really wanted to mold a lot of worlds together,” she said.

    The work with Cohen was one of the qualifications Sartiano cited when Adams’s staff asked for a CV in advance of naming him the mayor’s representative to the board of The Metropolitan Museum.

    Sartiano was soon invited to swank dinners with his fellow trustees, including one for the mayor attended by Alejandro Santo Domingo, financier Blair Effron, collectors Catie Marron and Merryl Tisch, and billionaire Met donor Oscar Tang.

    Sartiano is self-aware enough to know that he’s not like the other board members, and he doesn’t seem worried.

    “My training was a little different,” he said. “I was more in the cultural institution of food and beverage. Which is part of culture in New York City.”

    Sartiano has made it clear that he’ll back Adams for reelection next year. But what happens if a mayor with a 28 percent approval rating can’t win again? Challengers are lining up. Former comptroller and mayoral candidate Scott Stringer said he might face off against Adams. Ousted governor Andrew Cuomo has flirted with a run as well.

    While finishing up the Dover sole at his Mercer Hotel restaurant, I thought back to one of Sartiano’s first press clippings in a career of getting ink, a story in Columbia College Today from January 2004 that has this as a lede: “Scott Sartiano, ’97, thought he’d end up as a politician.”

    I asked him about his ambitions these days. He said he’d like to open Zero Bond in eight markets and open Sartiano’s in 25. (This spring, Zero Bond’s early efforts to eventually open a seasonal incarnation in East Hampton were met with fierce opposition from some locals.)

    “That’s it. Just raise my kids, build New York City,” he said. “Maybe run for mayor.”

    After our tour of the future Zero Bond space in Las Vegas, Sartiano changed into a suit for dinner at Delilah, a West Hollywood supper club where Drake hosted his 30th birthday that has been replicated at the Wynn. The Vegas edition is twice the size, sporting oodles of marble and four gigantic golden brass palm trees. The entire place had been bought out for Super Bowl weekend by DraftKings, the sports betting platform with a market cap of nearly $20 billion.

    Sartiano introduced me to the restaurant’s owners, H.wood Group founders John Terzian and Brian Toll. Sartiano knew the general manager, and the bartenders, and the table of high rollers. Down in the cabaret lounge, a manager said that Justin Bieber, whom I’d last seen jumping around shirtless yelling about Ice Spice, would be performing later. When dinner was over, Sartiano retired to the bar, where the crowd included Barstool Sports founder Dave Portnoy and Glen Powell. Dinner segued into a party, with a crew setting up the stage for guest performers. At one point I attempted to take a seat at what I was sure was the worst table in the restaurant but was told even that was reserved. Cory Gamble and Kris Jenner would arrive and sit there in short order.

    At a certain point, Sartiano suggested that we check out another venue at the Wynn, XS, the ultra-opulent 40,000-square-foot venue that for years has been among the highest-grossing nightclubs on the planet. Despite the fact that XS was definitely the most peak Vegas place that a NoHo guy could possibly end up at the night before the Super Bowl, Sartiano really wanted to go. He had to chase the juice.

    When he arrived, there was a scrum of people clearly uninvited trying to get in, and Sartiano told the people at the door who he was. Within seconds there was a handler taking us through various checkpoints around a crowd of thousands. He passed rows of tables, each secured for an average of $30,000 a pop, until arriving at the base of the DJ booth where a very friendly Alex Pall, of the Chainsmokers, was offering beer and multiple rounds of tequila shots.

    Pall and the other Chainsmoker, Drew Taggert, were actually about to DJ themselves. He pulled Sartiano with him, and the booth was a strange consortium of the 1 percent and dance-music enthusiasts. In one corner was once again Josh Kushner, and not far from him was his friend Mikey Hess, who was now joined by his father, John Hess, who runs the namesake fossil fuel company. Not far off was Goldman Sachs CEO David Solomon, who works his own DJ shtick on the weekends.

    I looked at Sartiano. This had been his perch for decades. On a certain level, he loved it; this was the epitome of fun for the richest people in America. But he also missed his kids, missed his friends, missed the vibe that he had built in a big downtown loft in Manhattan. I asked him if this is what he wanted for Zero Bond at the Wynn.

    “These people, yes,” he screamed, motioning to the VIPs in the booth.

    “These people,” Sartiano said. “But not here.”

    This story has been updated.

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    Nate Freeman

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  • Serena Williams Reveals Her Beauty Rituals On and Off the Court

    Serena Williams Reveals Her Beauty Rituals On and Off the Court

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    I would say the first half of my career, I was really too afraid to own up to what I wanted to do. And then the second half, I was just loving wearing that eyeliner. Some years it was just on top; some years it was top and bottom. I would just go all out. Mascara [was key], and also finding a brow I could wear full-time that, no matter how hard I wiped, it wouldn’t move. And then lips: Eventually, I’d just wear a lip color to give me some sort of color on the court.

    Millions of people could be watching your final, and that’s the only time they’ll see you. So I’m trying to figure out a way to best represent myself. That’s my red-carpet moment.

    You mastered the post-match reset. How do you describe that ritual?

    I would have everything that I needed in my kit: a little concealer, mascara, some blush, an eyebrow, obviously a lip. Sometimes my lip was my blush, if I was in such a hurry. Imagine: You get off of a match. You have to remove your tape, shower, and do your makeup all in 10 or 15 minutes. Time was of the essence before you’d show up at your press conference. It was really intense.

    I had it down to a science—just apply, rub, smooth. Next, next, next. It got easier in the second half of my career because I would already have my eyeliner and mascara on from the match. Sometimes I would mix my foundation and some sun cream together, and I would just have that on. I like what we created at Wyn Beauty—I really wanted to get our skin tint right. Another thing that was super important to me was the liner. Getting that waterproof and clean wasn’t easy at all. I really watch what I put in my body, and I really watch what I want to put on my face now. Some of the products, they said it was going to be too difficult or take too much time. But we were like, “We’re not in a rush. We can wait a year or two—whatever it takes.”

    Wyn Beauty

    Featuring You Hydrating Skin Enhancing Tint SPF 30

    Tell me about the brand’s signature chartreuse—the obvious, the metaphorical?

    The obvious tie is definitely the tennis ball. The not so obvious: The reason I didn’t continue to play tennis is I wanted to grow my family. But I didn’t like the word retirement. I was kind of evolving. So it’s like my tennis ball kind of evolved into this beauty [line], just bringing that championship mentality [into] everyday life. Active beauty for everyday people to be able to use every single day and still feel amazing—that is what I wanted to champion. There’s more to the story than just the tennis ball green.

    On the heels of the athleisure wave, “active beauty” is an interesting phrase. What does active look like for you these days?

    My day started today at 7:30 a.m. I woke up late. “Mom, we slept in.” And I was like, “Yeah, we did. Let’s get up.” So being active is going all day. I’m not going to have an opportunity to be back home until the end of the day, when it’s time for me to make dinner. I don’t have time to just do self-care. This is real life, when all the beauty and the glitz and the glam comes off. I don’t have time to have a full-on face of my amazing red-carpet makeup that I would love to have. It also isn’t realistic for me to show up to a grocery store like that.

    This is Wyn Beauty: You can win in it and you can be active all day, like I have been. I can go do grocery runs; I can do toy runs if I want to. I can go pick up my daughter from school, and I have my face on. It’s an everyday look, but it still has full coverage. It still has longevity and it’s clean. That’s what I mean by active. You don’t have to be a world-class tennis player. I mean, you can be, by the way. [Laughs.] But everyday lives of everyday people are so active.

    This interview has been condensed and edited for clarity.

    Wyn Beauty

    Word of Mouth Max Comfort Matte Lipstick

    Wyn Beauty

    Big Vision Lengthening & Defining Tubing Mascara

    Wyn Beauty

    No Words Needed Lip Serum

    Wyn Beauty

    MVP: Most Versatile Pigment Multifunction Lip & Cheek Color

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    Laura Regensdorf

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  • Styles to Celebrate the Craft Behind Turning a Look

    Styles to Celebrate the Craft Behind Turning a Look

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    Among the most intimate and daily links we have to art can be found in the garments we wear. Below, a texture play of spring pieces pulls a thread from the tapestries and abstracted crochet works of “Woven Histories: Textiles and Modern Abstraction,” opening at the National Gallery of Art on March 17. Works include Ed Rossbach’s 1977 Damask Waterfall—a wrapped maze of cotton welting cord, commercial fabric, as well as plastic and satin damask woven into a rush of movement and surprising color—and Andrea Zittel’s White Felted Dress #3, which evokes the visceral connection fiber art has to our everyday life, and to ourselves. “I hand-felted all my garments (Fiber Form Uniforms),” she said in an interview last year, “because I liked that the technology of felting (rubbing wool covered with hot soapy water with my hands) meant that I was literally using my body to make a covering for my body.”

    Here, from braided golden cuffs to twined cowboy boots, fiber fancies abound.

    All products featured on Vanity Fair are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

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    Arimeta Diop

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  • Inside the ’80s Art Scene of Keith Haring, Grace Jones, Basquiat, and More

    Inside the ’80s Art Scene of Keith Haring, Grace Jones, Basquiat, and More

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    New York, New York: the city that never quite got over its ’80s era, its Club 57 or Studio 54, its graffitied subway system, Warhol or his films, St. Mark’s Church-in-the-Bowery, Grace Jones clad only in Keith Haring’s squiggles; a cast of characters sometimes mononymous, always prolific, and too often short-lived. 

    In Radiant (Harper)—one of several books this spring that take on the glam and tumult of the decade—Brad Gooch traces Haring’s defiant, definitive lines. There’s his entering a 15-foot-by-3-inch fantasia into his Kutztown, Pennsylvania, junior high school student art exhibit (parsing Haring’s youth feels relevant; the image of the radiant baby would become his signature) through his 1978 move to NYC to attend the School of Visual Arts and his finding community amid a band of Lost Boys. In Jennifer Clement’s forthcoming The Promised Party (Canongate), the author of the acclaimed Widow Basquiat describes that downtown Manhattan cohort: “All of us were some sort of runaway.” Of Haring, she writes, “Keith had tenderness in him, the tenderness that one finds in jails and hospitals.” Meanwhile, Cynthia Carr’s Candy Darling (FSG), the first biography of the glamorous queer icon, serves as a temporal prequel to the scene—Darling starred in the Andy Warhol–produced Women in Revolt (1971) and Tennessee Williams’s play Small Craft Warnings (1972) long before Haring enrolled at SVA.

    Madonna and Haring in November 1989.COURTESY OF THE KEITH HARING FOUNDATION.

    The meek—the castaways, the othered, the artists and lovers—did not inherit the city. (See the well-off transplants who bemoan what little of New York’s original grit lingers in her streets.) Still, their barbed beauty lives on. At last summer’s Blue Note Jazz Festival, 75-year-old Jones beguiled a new generation of New Yorkers in a 50-foot dress that winked to Haring; this April, Madonna closes out her The Celebration Tour. (And Gagosian LA’s “Made on Market Street,” opening this month, reminds us that Jean-Michel Basquiat and his art were bicoastal.) Prescient Darling captured an era of yearning in one of her many diary entries: “I wanted to be beautiful. My friends told me I was beautiful. I lived to be beautiful.”

    HarperCollins

    ‘Radiant: The Life and Line of Keith Haring’ by Brad Gooch

    FSG

    ‘Candy Darling: Dreamer, Icon, Superstar’ by Cynthia Carr

    Canongate

    ‘The Promised Party: Kahlo, Basquiat and Me’ by Jennifer Clement

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    Arimeta Diop

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  • How AI Could Disrupt Hollywood

    How AI Could Disrupt Hollywood

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    A screenwriter friend once told me about a young assistant who was handed a script by his boss and told to drive it across town, to Bel Air, to the stately home of one of the world’s most celebrated directors. He walked up the long driveway, past the manicured gardens, before handing off the script. As the director inspected it, the assistant said nervously, “I have to say, your house is just incredible.” Without skipping a beat, the director shot back, “Yeah, well, no one who lives in it is happy” and slammed the door. When I asked why the director was so miserable, my friend replied: “Probably because he works in Hollywood.”

    One reason the industry is so much more taxing than other creative fields is because it’s so expensive to make anything. According to producers and studios I’ve spoken to, TV show budgets now range between $6 million and $25 million an episode, not including marketing costs. Most mainstream movies now cost between $100 million and $250 million to make. Years ago, you could make a blockbuster for a fraction of that. The first Top Gun (1986) cost $15 million to make. The 2022 sequel cost $170 million.

    But this is all about to change because of AI. This past month, OpenAI announced Sora, which can take text and turn it into astonishingly realistic video, in the same way the company’s other products, like ChatGPT, can with text-to-text, or Dall-E can with text-to-images. Days after the announcement of Sora, the media mogul Tyler Perry said he was stopping an $800 million expansion of his Atlanta film and TV studios. “I had gotten word over the last year or so that this was coming, but I had no idea until I saw recently the demonstrations of what it’s able to do,” Perry told The Hollywood Reporter. “It’s shocking to me.” (Perry acknowledged in the same interview that he’d used AI in two upcoming films.)

    There are also platforms like Pika, Runway, and VideoPoet, made by Google, which offer competing text-to-video AI software that can create short clips in whatever style you want. These technologies can make video from text or images, taking a still image and animating it in a way that makes it look like it’s a scene out of a $170 million production. Go look at the demo reel for Wonder Studio, an AI special effects company that uses drag-and-drop to change an actor into, say, a robot or an alien, to see just how quickly these advancements are happening.

    It’s not just visual effects that can be done with drag-and-drop algorithms. It’s everything. Text-only LLMs, like Squibler, Jasper, and ChatGPT, can already write mediocre scripts. The same is true for start-ups that enable you to create the score for a film using a full philharmonic of brass, woodwinds, percussion, and strings. Then there’s the AI editing platforms that can string it all together. All of this hints at a not-too-distant future where a film or TV series could be made by a single person, though regrettably that single person would not be Mike White.

    While most people who work in Hollywood—no doubt including the 90 percent who are already struggling to make a living—don’t look on these developments as desirable, there’s a swath of people who see them as an inevitable addition to storytelling, at least one day. “Creators in all realms are going to have to look at this as a profound opportunity. They will be able to collaborate with a force that can sift through every grain of cultural capital on the planet and traverse the entire kingdom of history in less time than it takes to pour a cup of coffee,” says Allan Loeb, a screenwriter who is currently writing a novel about creative AI in Hollywood. “The apprentice’s 10,000 hours will become eight seconds.”

    Putting aside the hotly disputed copyright issues, Hollywood is about to experience a disruption similar to what happened more than two decades ago in the music industry, where a person used to need access to an exorbitantly expensive recording studio to make a single song (not to mention agents, managers, and distribution deals), until the MP3 and inexpensive software let artists like Justin Bieber (who was discovered on YouTube) and Billie Eilish (who was discovered on SoundCloud) subvert the usual channels of music stardom. Today between 25,000 and 100,000 new songs are uploaded every 24 hours to Spotify, mostly made, presumably, by people in their bedrooms. Your guess is as good as mine as to how many of these songs are actually any good or how many people actually listen to them. But imagine when anyone can create their own Oppenheimer-length film that could pass for the product of a big studio.

    “By giving everyone access to AI tools that will allow individuals to make films, music, animation, and more, we will open up these mediums to whole populations of people who would otherwise never have the possibility of telling their story,” says Mika Johnson, a filmmaker and documentarian who also works in AI. The problem is that any idealized Cambrian explosion of access is almost certain to collapse on itself. “Every artist on the planet is having a Wile E. Coyote moment,” Loeb says. “My only advice to them is that they may not want to look down.”

    Hollywood is a town in a perpetual existential crisis, going back to the transition from silent films to talkies in the ’20s, to the end of the studio system in the ’40s, to the rise of television in the ’50s. This past decade has pulled and pushed and slapped Hollywood in every which way possible. The streamers broke those lush business models, and then COVID-19 ground the industry to a halt. And right when it was about to get greased up and ready to churn out content again, the WGA and SAG went on strike.

    There was a long list of demands from the unions, from residuals to data, but at the heart of the fight last year, the unions wanted to ensure that their members wouldn’t be replaced by AI. The studios agreed not to use AI in lieu of writers and mainstream actors. But three years from now, when the next negotiations begin, AI video and AI writing technologies may be a thousand times more advanced and ubiquitous, and that battle will be even harder to win.

    Many people I’ve spoken to who work in AI say, like Johnson, that their goal is to democratize creativity, making filmmaking and storytelling available to anyone. The aforementioned demo released by Wonder Studio, which boasts an advisory board of industry heavyweights like Steven Spielberg and Joe Russo, emphasizes how its tools are meant to empower artists rather than replace them. And I imagine most writers, directors, producers, editors, and cinematographers don’t believe that a machine can do what they do. But the shift is already happening.

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    Nick Bilton

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  • Jenna Ortega Thinks We Need More Weird Stories Like ‘Beetlejuice’

    Jenna Ortega Thinks We Need More Weird Stories Like ‘Beetlejuice’

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    What did you mean when you said the episodes are more like movies?

    I mean, in the first season we had episodes that really stood out visually, like the dance episode was a really big one for people, and that setting was very particular and it felt like Prom Night, a little bit, or Carrie. Every episode [of season two] that I’ve read so far is like that. It just stands out on its own as a very memorable scene or bit or setting, which I think is what I’m most excited for, because to pull that off for eight episodes is, I think, really incredible and really lucky.

    You’d been working for a long time before things really took off.

    I have been doing this for 12 years. It’s weird to look back on all the experiences that I’ve had doing the job that I do. And then to be here now is…I don’t know, I feel like it’s some sort of sick prank.

    You must have vivid memories of your early years, auditioning and trying to get roles.

    I wanted to start when I was six. But I didn’t actually start until I was 10. There’s a lot of things that I’ve done in my career that I used to say I wanted to do, or dreamed about doing. I’m definitely a perfectionist, but I also think that that comes with never being satisfied or never being able to stop and slow down and appreciate what’s been going on or what I’ve seen. The last few months I’ve been able to reflect on the fact that a lot of the things that I wanted to do when I was younger, including work with Tim Burton, have happened. I almost didn’t realize it because I was so focused on the work and had tunnel vision.

    Does it still live up to what you imagined?

    To still enjoy the job just as much 12 years later—even seeing all of the ugly and wonderful and extreme—I think is pretty cool. I made this decision when I was 10, so I’m living off of a 10-year-old’s choices.

    Anything you wish you’d done differently?

    I’m very much a people pleaser. I like to say that I’m not anymore—but I am. I wish that I felt that I was a bit more in control of my experiences. When I was younger, I was just so happy to be a part of the conversation that I wasn’t really playing it in a strategic way. Not that it has to be. I wish that maybe I had felt more autonomy in who I was from a younger age. I think I’ve definitely fallen into patterns of taking myself too seriously or not being able to create much balance in my life.

    Balance in what way?

    When I was younger, I wasn’t thinking about sleepovers and friends and proms. It was always, “What am I going to do next? How am I going to get this job? What meeting should I take?” It was work and school and sleep and repeat. So it’s been funny as I’ve gotten older to realize, “Huh, yeah, you do need your hands in other bowls and you do need to take a step and a breather.” I’m glad that I realize that now, but it’s strange to have not really had that experience or been eager for that experience when I was younger.

    It’s important to have connections back to reality.

    Definitely. Everything that’s happened—it almost feels like another person that people are talking about. I don’t feel attached to my name at all, or people’s perception of my name. I have conversations with people all the time about the position that I’m in now and everything that’s happening, but nothing in my personal life has really changed or been altered in any way. It almost doesn’t sound real. I just feel very detached from the whole thing, which maybe helps as well. But at the same time, it’s kind of scary. I don’t know how people do it. I feel like there’s probably some handbook out there that just was never handed to me.

    This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity. For fashion and beauty details, go to VF.com/credits.

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    Anthony Breznican

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  • Loewe Spins a Molten Metal Fantasy for Your Arm

    Loewe Spins a Molten Metal Fantasy for Your Arm

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    Each month, Vanity Fair invites a host of photographers to capture the season’s standout fashion and jewelry. The result: still lifes that dazzle and delight. This year kicks off with Horacio Salinas’s punchy take on a sterling silver Loewe bracelet. Keep checking here throughout the year for updates with more beautiful pairings. —Madison Reid, Associate Visuals Editor

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    Vanity Fair

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  • How Hair Salons Found a Place in the Art World, From Madam C.J. Walker’s Day to Now

    How Hair Salons Found a Place in the Art World, From Madam C.J. Walker’s Day to Now

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    A 1911 PHOTOGRAPH shows Madam C.J. Walker in the driver’s seat of an automobile portering a carful of women—a veritable metaphor for collective success. At the time Walker had recently incorporated her haircare enterprise, which ultimately made her one of the nation’s first Black millionaires. As the Louisiana native later told Booker T. Washington, “I promoted myself into the business of manufacturing goods and preparations.… I have built my own factory on my own ground.” Walker trained “hair culturists” at the Lelia College of Beauty Culture (named after her daughter, A’Lelia) and brought the “talented tenth” of intelligentsia and wealth into her orbit. Renowned for their fantastic glamour, the two Walkers lived not far from the Rockefellers at their estate, Villa Lewaro, in Irvington-on-Hudson, New York. After C.J.’s death in 1919, her two Harlem town houses continued to thrive under A’Lelia as places for conversation about art, culture, and politics.

    Madam C.J. Walker’s beauty salon, photographed by James Van Der Zee in 1929.JAMES VAN DER ZEE ARCHIVE, THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART.

    Based on the Baroque-era gatherings of Madame de Pompadour, of the famous steepled hair, the word salon carried a double meaning in Walker’s beauty parlors, as seen in a 1929 photograph by James Van Der Zee. The clientele, in kitten heels, bob cuts, and finger waves, coolly converse over tea.

    This view of cosmopolitan life is one of many in “The Harlem Renaissance and Transatlantic Modernism,” opening this month at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art. Curated by Denise Murrell, the exhibition convenes the era’s thinkers and visionaries: Marian Anderson, resplendent in red, painted by Laura Wheeler Waring; Zora Neale Hurston in a pastel by Aaron Douglas; Paul Robeson immortalized in bronze; and Josephine Baker on film. Van Der Zee’s roving lens is particularly attuned to the magnificence of African diasporic communities—a transgender person in a fur-trimmed ensemble evokes avenues for acceptance in the era—and the subdued scene at Walker’s is just as central to the glitz.

    Beauty shops are a mainstay of neighborhood garrulity, sites for transformation where the fresh coif brings its own twist of renaissance. Kerry James Marshall’s 2012 painting School of Beauty, School of Culture shows a salon at its most boisterous: where children play on the wood floor and posters of Lauryn Hill and Chris Ofili share space with advertisements for Dark & Lovely hair color. Hair is also a recurring topos in Jessica Spence’s graphic, vivid paintings. Six Hours (2017), shown here, alludes to a kind of durational performance that takes place in a braid shop in Westchester County, New York—just a short drive from Walker’s Renaissance Revival manse, where the likes of Langston Hughes and W.E.B. Du Bois gathered. Spence, who notes Marshall as an influence, attended a 2019 salon, Encyclopédie, in Brooklyn, where a new generation discussed the overlapping worlds of media, art, and culture. In a sense, it was a milieu that Walker herself would soon rejoin, with the 2020 Netflix miniseries Self Made, starring Octavia Spencer. The entrepreneur finally got the gleaming Hollywood treatment, and the stylist in Spence’s painting, wearing her crystal-studded apron, does too.

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    Andrianna Campbell-LaFleur

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  • John, Paul, George, Ringo…and Harry?! When the Beatles Stormed America, I Was on the Inside

    John, Paul, George, Ringo…and Harry?! When the Beatles Stormed America, I Was on the Inside

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    John was anxious, though, like all the Beatles, about what to expect. Would the American media be tough on them? Or misconstrue something they said in an interview? Would demonstrators, because of all the press on hand, use the opportunity to stage some kind of protest? As the plane taxied in, John and I saw a mob lining the terminal rooftop. But it was a mob of fans, waving and screaming hysterically. They were being serenaded. You could hear the crowd singing, “She Loves You, Yeah, Yeah, Yeah.” It was a lovefest.

    On the flight over, I’d proposed a photo idea, which the Beatles liked: I would be the fifth person off the plane, and as the band got halfway down the boarding stairs, they’d turn back and look at me—and I’d photograph them with the press, the crowd, and the New York skyline in the background. The picture would say, literally: Beatles come to America. But in my mind it also said: Benson got a picture no one else was in a position to take.

    So we exited the plane: George, then John, Paul, Ringo, then me. And they got so distracted they forgot to turn around! They were caught up in this chaotic drama. The crowd was screaming. The press was screaming, “Look here!” It was deafening. I just grabbed Ringo’s coat and shouted, “Turn around!” and he hollered at the others, and they all looked back, Paul waving. Bingo. Thank you, Ringo. I fired off three frames. One shot ran in the Express the next day under the headline: “Crazy…that’s New York as the Beatles arrive.”

    February 8, Manhattan

    Our second day in New York, we went to the CBS TV studio for a rehearsal. Ed Sullivan was the host of the most popular variety show on television. He was deferential and obliging. He even put on a Beatles wig as a joke. They were soaking up the attention. Everywhere we went—in restaurants, passing a bar—there was Beatles music playing. But they never allowed themselves to get a swelled head. We usually just sat around at the Plaza.

    As I had done in Paris, I stayed on the same floor as the band. Fact: When you have good-looking guys and their record’s number one, you have girls fighting to get onto the elevators and the back stairwells to get onto the 12th floor. Fact: A couple of girls snuck in and jumped on their beds and security had to take them away. This was rock and roll. Elvis Presley, same thing. But it was a big problem for Epstein because he didn’t want any incident to happen on his watch. He would discuss this with me: “We must watch this. We’re introducing young girls to the Beatles and we’re responsible.”

    I began to understand how the band interacted. As I saw it, Paul was the leader. He seemed the most sophisticated, most business-minded, thinking about their image. He was upbeat and encouraging. John was a leader in other ways on other days. He was the conscience of the group, certainly. Creatively, you sensed John and Paul were in charge, insisting, “This is what we do.” Together, they had the last word.

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    Harry Benson

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  • Prada Beauty Is the High-Brow Swoon of the Season

    Prada Beauty Is the High-Brow Swoon of the Season

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    Miuccia Prada likes to play the contrarian: a onetime communist presiding over a fashion conglomerate, a designer whose notion of sexy tips toward ugly chic. So it goes that a woman known for wearing little discernible makeup is launching exactly that, with Prada Beauty now making its Stateside debut. (The product line made an appearance on the Milan runway last September.) Is it by turns practical, eccentric, militaristic, and oriented for utmost care? Yes to all. 

    The Monochrome Hyper Matte lipstick bullet is embossed with the crosshatched texture of Saffiano leather, a signature material for Prada’s handbags.

    The refillable eye palettes are for archive buffs: Each takes after an original Prada textile, translating retro prints into richly pigmented shadows. Metal-clad lipsticks come in two matte variations; the lip balm is tinted the house’s mint green. Foundation attuned to undertones lends an unfussy polish, while the adaptogen-boosted skin care lineup—cleanser, essence, serum, cream—is as future-forward as Ms. Prada herself. After all, getting older allows for ongoing evolution, as she once put it: “You gain some wrinkles, but— eh—finally, you learn to have fun!”

    Prada Beauty

    Reveal Skin-Optimizing Refillable Soft Matte Foundation

    Prada Beauty

    Dimensions Multi-Effect Refillable Eyeshadow Palette in Profusion

    Prada Beauty

    Monochrome Hyper Matte Refillable Lipstick

    Prada Beauty

    Monochrome Soft Matte Refillable Lipstick

    Prada Beauty

    Dimensions Multi-Effect Refillable Eyeshadow Palette in Pulse

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    Laura Regensdorf

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