Tag: flower gardening

A Guide to Growing Foxglove in Hot Climates
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Foxgloves are a showstopper in the cottage garden and cut flower arrangements. Hummingbirds and bees also love these beautiful flowers. Growing foxgloves is not as challenging as it may seem. Learn how to grow foxglove (even if you live in a hot climate like the low desert of Arizona) and add these stunning flowers to your garden.

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About foxgloves

First, let’s learn about these beautiful flowers, of which there are two types. “Biennials” are the oldest common varieties that grow easily in cooler climates. They form a rosette in the first year and bloom in the second year. They drop seeds and come back year after year.

However, in hot climates, foxgloves don’t survive the summer and won’t be around to bloom the second year. Luckily for us warm-season growers, there is another type: a hybrid “perennial” that can be grown as an annual and blooms its first year. Perennial foxglove is a cool-season hardy annual that grows well in hot climates when planted during the cooler months. It will bloom in spring.

I’d also like to note that all parts of foxglove are poisonous. Use care and caution around pets and children. Now, on to the tips!

Choose a variety that blooms in its first year and start seeds indoors

First-year blooming types to try:
- Dalmation Peach: Full-looking blooms; creamy peach colored.
- Camelot: Large full center spikes and good side shoots; flowers face outward instead of down in shades of lavender, rose, and white; 3-foot stalks.
- Foxy: Dwarf variety grows well in containers; blooms are white, cream, purple, and rose.
Surface sow seeds and cover lightly with vermiculite – light is required for germination. Mist lightly and use humidity domes until they germinate. Place under lights and grow indoors. For more information about starting seeds indoors, read this blog post. Click here to see my favorite seed-starting supplies on Amazon.

Plant foxgloves at the best time for your climate

Foxgloves are generally hardy to -10°F (-23°C). If foxgloves survive your winter’s coldest temperatures, plant seedlings in the garden 6 weeks before your first fall frost. If your winters are too cold, plant foxgloves outside 6-8 weeks before your last spring frost. Look up your frost dates here.

In the low desert of Arizona, plant seedlings outdoors from September to October.

Start seeds indoors about 12 weeks before you plant outside. For those in the low desert of Arizona, a good time to start seeds indoors is July to August.

Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona.
• PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
• BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.

Select the best location for planting foxgloves

The nice thing about foxgloves is that they don’t mind partial sun or shady conditions. If you live in a hot climate area, a shadier spot will help them last longer in the spring. Choose an area with rich, well-draining soil with plenty of added compost.

Avoid overly wet soil in the winter. Foxgloves are susceptible to root rot, wilt, blight, powdery mildew, and fungal diseases. Reduce opportunities for disease by allowing good airflow between plants, avoiding water on leaves, and planting in well-draining soil.

Foxgloves with root rot, too much heat, and forming seeds

Space foxgloves about 6″ (30cm) apart for cut flowers or about a foot apart (30cm) for landscape plants. Remember that foxglove blooms are typically quite tall, about 3 feet or more, so they look good against a fence or tall borders.

Care for foxglove as it grows

After planting, the leaves grow and the plant goes somewhat dormant and grows slowly during the colder months of fall and winter. As temperatures warm in the spring, growth will take off, and flower shoots will form.
- Foxglove grows best in moist (not wet) soil; do not let them dry out.
- Mulch plants after planting.
- Add a thin layer of compost to the growing plants in the spring.
- Stake tall varieties.
Foxgloves are deer (and rabbit) resistant. However, possible pests include aphids, Japanese beetles, mealy bugs, and thrips. Generally, foxgloves are pest-free in my garden and easy to grow.

November, December, and March

April

Foxglove cut flower tips

If you want to use them as cut flowers, cut as soon as the first flower opens on the bottom—others will continue to open, but they won’t last as long once they’ve been pollinated. Blooms will last 6-8 days in a vase with a preservative. But I love leaving them in the landscape and enjoying the flowers and the wildlife they attract.

To keep blooms going, remove spent blooms right away. You usually get a few smaller spikes. You can also leave the blooms in place to collect seeds to plant next season. Remove spent plants at the end of the season; once temperatures get too hot, they will die back.

If you live where it doesn’t get too hot, they may also survive and grow over the summer.

Sources for this article about how to grow foxglove:

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Angela Judd

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July 17, 2024
How to Grow Statice: From Seed to Blooms
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Statice blooms are easy to grow, attract beneficial pollinators, and are known for their long-lasting and colorful blooms. If you live in a mild-winter area, it may even become a short-lived perennial. In addition, statice is on many florists’ lists of favorite filler flowers. In this blog, I’ll guide you through how to grow statice from seed all the way to harvesting and using the cut flowers. Let’s get started!

Gulf fritillary butterfly on Apricot Beauty Statice

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

A Little Bit About Statice Flowers:

The cream blooms are the flowers, and the peach petals are calyxes.

The botanical name for statice is Limonium sinuatum, and it is a popular plant in the plumbago family. Statice produces clusters of small, colorful flowers that bloom throughout the summer and fall months.

Statice first forms a large rosette, followed by several thick stems topped with the statice flowers and calyxes.

One of the most attractive features of statice is the long-lasting flowers. The blooms can last for several weeks or even months, depending on the conditions. This makes it a popular choice for cut flower arrangements, dried flower arrangements, and even as a border plant in gardens.

Starting Statice Seeds Indoors:

Transplanting statice (not direct sowing) is recommended. Statice seeds should be started indoors about 6-8 weeks before the planting date in your area.

I use statice seeds from Johnnny’s seeds (not sponsored) with excellent results.

Statice seeds typically germinate in 5-14 days at 70°F (21°C).
- To start, sow the seeds in a container with well-draining soil and keep them moist but not soggy.
- Light aids germination; cover statice seeds lightly.
- Place the container in a warm spot with plenty of light.
- Harden off seedlings before planting outdoors.
Read this blog post for more information about how to start seeds indoors.

When to Plant Statice Outside:

In cold-winter areas, transplant statice outside on your last frost date. Mild-winter areas often plant statice in the late fall or early spring.

Dates for planting statice in the low desert of Arizona:
Start statice seeds indoors from September – October.
Plant statice transplants outdoors from mid-October through November.

Statice covered in frost on a cold January morning in Arizona.

Established statice plants are somewhat frost-tolerant.

How to Plant and Care for Statice as it Grows:

Choose a location with at least 6-8 hours of sunlight and rich, well-draining soil. Amend the planting area with compost if desired. Space the plants 12″-18″ (30-45 cm) apart, and water them lightly after planting.

If using square foot gardening, plant one statice per square.

Statice plants require minimal care once established. Water them deeply every 7-10 days, and ensure the soil is evenly moist but not saturated. Fertilize occasionally with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer meant for flowers. If you aren’t harvesting flowers for cut flowers, deadhead them to encourage new blooms.

Statice plants grow 24″-30″ (60-76 cm) tall and usually don’t require staking.

Harvesting Statice for Cut Flowers:

Harvest statice blooms for cut flowers once they are fully formed and have reached their vibrant color. Cut the flower stems at the base of the plant and remove any leaves or small branches.

Arrange the flowers in a vase with fresh water; they’ll last for weeks.

Statice flowers are perfect for drying and using as dried flowers. The papery texture of statice becomes more pronounced when dried.

To dry statice stems:
- Gather the stems into small bunches.
- Tie stems together with string, a rubber band, or floral wire.
- Hang upside down, allowing adequate spacing between bunches.
- Drying time varies due to the length of stems and conditions. Decrease drying time by increasing temperature or adding air movement with a fan.
How to Use Statice Flowers in Arrangements:

Statice blooms look beautiful alone or when paired with other flowers in a bouquet or arrangement. They add a pop of color and texture to floral designs and are perfect for adding height and structure. Statice flowers can also be used in wreaths and dried arrangements.

This post shares tips and tricks for making beautiful flower arrangements from the garden.

How Long Does Statice Last in the Garden?

Although usually grown as an annual, statice plants can last several seasons in the garden in mild-winter climates. The most abundant blooms will be from early spring through summer.

Learning how to grow statice is a fun and rewarding gardening project. From planting seeds indoors to harvesting cut flowers, statice is a low-maintenance plant that adds color and beauty to any garden bed or floral arrangement. Happy gardening!

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Angela Judd

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February 26, 2024
Flower Gardening Basics
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Although I consider myself a vegetable gardener, flowers have become essential to my garden. Flowers are crucial in attracting pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Pollination is vital for most plants’ growth and the production of fruits and vegetables.

The best part is that growing flowers is simple. Once you understand a few flower-gardening basics, you’ll be ready to grow flowers for their beauty and pollinators. Your vegetables will thank you!

Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

Why plant flowers?

By planting a variety of flowers, you’re promoting biodiversity in your garden. Different species attract different types of insects and birds, creating a balanced ecosystem. Aim to add at least one type of flower to each garden bed.

Many beneficial Insect and pollinator-friendly flowers grow easily from seed. A few of my favorites are alyssum, calendula, coreopsis, cosmos, marigold, nasturtium, Queen Anne’s Lace, sunflowers, zinnia, tithonia, and tansy.

How to grow flowers

The fundamentals of flower gardening are similar to those of vegetable gardening. They include ensuring good soil quality, providing adequate sunlight with some afternoon shade in summer, watering correctly, planting at the right time, and maintaining sufficient spacing between plants.

Read the more than 40 “How to Grow” articles about different flowers for more in-depth information.

Where to plant flowers

You may not feel like there is room in your garden to add flowers. Here are a few ideas for incorporating more flowers into your space.

I often reserve the ends of the beds to plant flowers. The flowers are easily visible and add beauty to the garden.

Add containers in and around your garden. Most annual flowers are well-suited for growing in containers.

Use the space around your beds. Sunflowers grow well in native soil and provide shade during Arizona’s hot summers. Rather than adding them to the garden beds, I often plant seeds outside them. This also prevents any negative impact from their allelopathic effects.

Flower Growing Basics: How to support flowers

Tall plants with heavy blooms may require support to prevent toppling and stem breakage. Support ideas include stakes, bamboo poles, trellis netting, existing trellises, and tomato cages.

Flower Growing Basics: What is pinching?

Pinching is a technique where a portion of the new plant’s growth is snipped out to encourage branching instead of a single central stem. This is best done when plants have 3-4 sets of leaves. It’s important not to remove over half of the leaves and to cut the stem back to a set of leaves, not a bare stem. This can also encourage longer stems.

Certain flowers like anemones, amaranth, plume celosia, zinnia, snapdragon, strawflower, cosmos, basil, calendula, carnation, chrysanthemum, sweet peas, phlox, dahlia, and marigolds benefit from pinching.

Do not pinch: statice, dara, single-stem sunflowers, foxglove, delphinium, ranunculus, forget-me-not, or scabiosa.

Flower Growing Basics: Cut flowers

A cutting garden can provide a steady supply of fresh flowers for arrangements without needing an extensive range. Planting different flowers each season and dedicating a part of each bed to flowers can help maintain this variety.

Try to have a mixture of focal flowers, disk flowers, spike flowers, filler flowers, and foliage each season.
- Focal flowers: Lisianthus, sunflower, tulip, rose, daffodil, zinnia, ranunculus, dahlia
- Disk flowers: Cosmos, rudbeckia, marigold, phlox, daisy, echinacea, strawflower, gaillardia, calendula
- Spike flowers: Foxglove, delphinium, snapdragon, stock, amaranth, celosia, salvia, bee balm, clarkia
- Filler flowers: Globe amaranth, Queen Anne’s Lace, coral vine, bachelor buttons, feverfew, statice, verbena, bupleurum, scabiosa
- Foliage: Artemisia, dusty miller, basil, eucalyptus, lemon verbena, mint, oregano, perilla
Learn more about how to make quick and easy flower arrangements in this post.

How to harvest flowers for cut flowers

How and when you harvest flowers determines their beauty and vase life. Follow these principles to enjoy your cut flowers longer.
- Harvest flowers before they are pollinated. Pollination tells flowers to shift their focus from blooming to producing seeds.
- Many flowers continue to open once picked. Generally, pick flowers when they are ⅓ open.
- Harvest most spike flowers when the bottom ⅓ of flowers are open.
- Harvest foliage stems when they begin to stiffen, and the ends do not flop over.
- Use clean, sharp snips to harvest flowers. Dull clippers can crush the stem.
- Completely clean pails and vases before using hot, soapy water. Small dirt particles can clog stems.
- Harvest in the morning when temps are cool, and the moisture level of plants is highest.
After Harvesting:
- Strip leaves from the bottom ⅔ of the stems and immediately place the stems in a pail of water.
- Bring the buckets of flowers and foliage inside and allow them to rest for an hour or so to rehydrate the stems.
- Fill a clean vase with ¾ water, and add a packet of flower food.
- Trim the bottom 1/2-1 inch (1-2 cm) of stem off and place in a clean vase.
- Ensure all leaves are removed below the water line.
- Refill the water as needed.
- Replace the water if it becomes cloudy.
Flower Growing Basics: What about bulbs?

Flower bulbs, which include corms, rhizomes, and tubers, need specific care when planting, growing, and storing. They require good soil and drainage and should not be overwatered to avoid rotting. After blooming, allow bulb flower leaves and stems to die completely before lifting bulbs or trimming back.

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Angela Judd

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October 21, 2023