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Tag: Florence

  • Judge blocks Trump administration from moving former death row inmates to Colorado’s ‘Supermax’ prison

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    WASHINGTON — A federal judge has temporarily blocked the Trump administration from transferring 20 inmates with commuted death sentences to the nation’s highest security federal prison, warning that officials cannot employ a “sham” process for deciding where to incarcerate the prisoners for the rest of their lives.

    U.S. District Judge Timothy Kelly ruled late Wednesday that the government cannot send the former death row inmates to the “Supermax” federal prison in Florence, Colorado, because it likely would violate their Fifth Amendment rights to due process.

    Kelly cited evidence that officials from the Republican administration “made it clear” to the federal Bureau of Prisons that the inmates had to be sent to ADX Florence — “administrative maximum” — to punish them because Democratic President Joe Biden had commuted their death sentences.

    “At least for now, they will remain serving life sentences for their heinous crimes where they are currently imprisoned,” wrote Kelly, who was nominated to the bench by President Donald Trump.

    In December 2024, less than a month before Trump returned to the White House, Biden commuted the sentences of 37 of the 40 people on federal death row, converting their punishments to life imprisonment.

    On his first day back in office, Trump issued an executive order directing Attorney General Pam Bondi to house the 37 inmates “in conditions consistent with the monstrosity of their crimes and the threats they pose.”

    Twenty of the 37 inmates are plaintiffs in the lawsuit before Kelly, who issued a preliminary injunction blocking their transfers to Florence while the lawsuit proceeds. All were incarcerated in Terre Haute, Indiana, when Biden commuted their death sentences.

    Government lawyers argued that the bureau has broad authority to decide what facilities the inmates should be redesignated for after their commutations.

    “BOP’s designation decisions are within its exclusive purview and are intended to preserve the safety of inmates, employees, and surrounding communities,” they wrote.

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  • Rick Steves’ Newest Guidebook Is A Fresh Perspective On Italy Spilling The Country’s Secrets

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    Rick Steves is at it again with a new guidebook, and this time his focus is on a trio of Italy’s most majestic cities: Rome, Venice, and Florence. A valuable addition to the veteran traveler’s oeuvre, which includes guidebooks to major Mediterranean cruise ports and exposés of the great monuments and bubbling bathhouses of Budapest, this one leads the reader through the land of pizza, pasta, and panzanella.

    His original “Rick Steves Italy” is now in its 28th edition, and Steves still has fond memories of his time in the country. He still says his 1973 romp to Rome was among his best-ever trips to Europe, and he recently revealed that Lake Como and the scenic Alta Via 1 hiking path in the Italian Alps were among his vacation destinations of choice for 2025. So it’s fair to say that the eminent author, TV presenter, and radio host is a big, big fan of Italy and all it has to offer.

    He’s not the only one. Data from the United Nations World Tourism Organization (via SchengenInsurance) shows that Italy reigns as the third most-visited country in the whole of Europe. Over 57 million folks travel here each year! Many of those tourists will head straight for the big-hitting cities of Rome, Venice, and Florence, a triptych of enthralling towns that often dominate lists of the must-see places in the country. Well, now they’ll have a Rick Steves guidebook to accompany them, since those three metropolises are the headline destinations of this new publication.

    Read more: Rick Steves Says To Always Do These Things Before Traveling

    A new perspective on three iconic Italian cities

    Huge crowds on the main square of Venice – Kirk Fisher/Getty Images

    Up until now, most Rick Steves guidebooks on Italy have concentrated on the whole country or niche cultural areas like Italy for foodies. That, or they’ve been deep dives into specific cities on their own — there are dedicated standalone books for traveling just to Rome, to Florence, to Venice. Where this new publication differs is in its merging of three into one.

    By recognizing just how popular that golden trifecta of cities really is, Steves now tables a handy, packable product that you can use for not one, not two, but three top Italian must-sees. The travel guru has done something similar before. Previous editions of his snapshot series of books have coupled the fashion city of Milan with the glinting waters of the Italian Lakes District, for example.

    Doing it this way will mean some inevitable sacrifices in detail. For example, the new book doesn’t have certain day-trip suggestions or information on what to do with kids in each place. However, it’s still jam-packed with all that great “Rick-tested information” you’ll be used to, spread across a whopping 400-plus, super-thin pages. Steves recommends it for anyone looking to visit all three hotspots in the same journey and planning to spend up to four days in each city.

    Reveal the secrets of Rome, Venice, and Florence, the Rick Steves way

    The famous Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal of Venice

    The famous Rialto Bridge on the Grand Canal of Venice – Adisa/Getty Images

    Avid followers of Rick Steves will know of his so-called “back door” approach to travel. It’s a way of really getting under the skin of a place by seeking out lesser-visited sights, doing as the locals do, and overnighting in popular day trip destinations. This new guide is true to that age-old way of doing things; a way of doing things that’s served this Europe expert well since 1976!

    It’s crammed with vital information for maximizing your time and budget, outlining both the top-draw attractions and the hidden wonders of each town. Take Florence as an example. Steves offers comprehensive walkthroughs of the Uffizi Gallery, but also tips on side street osterias where you can dine on real Tuscan food and drink an authentic Chianti. Want to know the best place to glug a Negroni in Rome’s romantic quarter of La Trastevere? This one has you covered. Keen to skip the crowds and see the most underrated parts of Venice that Rick Steves calls the most intriguing of all? No problem!

    Then there are the mapped-out walking routes. These have long been one of the central pillars of Rick’s Italy coverage, revealing ways to navigate bustling cities that take in oodles of landmarks and hidden gems, all on easy-to-follow maps. They include Rick’s curated “Dolce Vita Stroll” from Piazza del Popolo all the way to the Roman Forum, and a self-guided cruise down the legendary Grand Canal to lay eyes on the Campanile di San Marco, the tallest structure in Venice.

    Ready to discover more hidden gems and expert travel tips? Subscribe to our free newsletter and add us as a preferred search source for access to the world’s best-kept travel secrets.

    Read the original article on Islands.

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  • “The Monster of Florence”: What’s Fact and What’s Fiction?

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    NEED TO KNOW

    • A serial killer named Il Mostro terrorized Florence, Italy, from the late 1960s through the 1980s

    • Though multiple people have been suspected — and even convicted — of some of the killings, many believe the real murderer has never been caught

    • Netflix’s four-part miniseries The Monster of Florence revisits how Italian police first connected the series of murders

    The Monster of Florence was as terrifyingly real as it gets.

    For two decades, an unidentified serial killer terrorized young couples throughout small towns in Florence, Italy. However, it wasn’t until 1982 — 14 years after the first murder — that police realized a string of seemingly random unsolved double-homicides were connected, per Biography.

    That turning point was when director and co-creator Stefano Sollima decided to begin his four-part limited series for Netflix.

    “We decided to tell the story from the beginning, when investigators started connecting the dots and realized this might be the act of a serial killer,” he told TIME in October 2025. “We wanted to tell the story of the Monster without taking a position. Instead of focusing on the investigation, we kept it in the background and decided to focus on the individual suspects who, in each episode or case, were considered by the investigators to be the culprits.”

    The culprits in question were a group of Sardinian men known collectively as the “Sardinia trail.” The theory began after bullets from the 1982 murders of Paolo Mainardi and Antonella Migliorini matched those from the 1968 killings of Barbara Locci and Antonio Lo Bianco.

    At the time, Locci’s husband, Stefano Mele, was incarcerated for her murder. But because the killings continued while he was imprisoned, police believed the real Il Mostro (Italian for “the monster”) was still on the loose.

    Multiple men were suspected and even convicted in some of the 16 murders linked to the serial killer. But as Sollima noted to TIME, no perpetrator has been sentenced for all eight double homicides, and the initial suspects sent police in circles while the bodies kept piling up.

    Here’s everything to know about what The Monster of Florence got right and which elements of the real case were fictionalized.

    Warning: The Monster of Florence spoilers ahead!

    Did police not discover a serial killer until after Migliorini and Mainardi’s murders?

    Emanuela Scarpa/Netflix

    ‘The Monster of Florence’.

    Yes, Italian police did not investigate the possibility of a serial killer until Migliorini and Mainardi’s murders in June 1982. Like the other eight couples who were killed, they were found shot and stabbed in their cars.

    At the scene of the crime, investigators found Winchester “series H” bullets, which were used with a .22-caliber Beretta pistol, per TIME. They later received an anonymous tip that led them to link the gun to the 1968 murders of Locci and Lo Bianco, according to The Guardian.

    That discovery led police to connect those two cases to three other double-homicides from the past decade: Pasquale Gentilcore and Stefania Pettini, Giovanni Foggi and Carmela De Nuccio and Stefano Baldi and Susanna Cambi. Though police linked the .22 Beretta to all eight crime scenes, it was never found, per The Hollywood Reporter Roma.

    Were Lo Bianco and Locci Il Mostro’s first victims?

    Emanuela Scarpa/Netflix 'The Monster of Florence'.

    Emanuela Scarpa/Netflix

    ‘The Monster of Florence’.

    Yes, Lo Bianco and Locci — found fatally shot inside a parked car in August 1968 — are widely believed to be the first victims of Il Mostro. At the time of the killing, Locci’s 6-year-old son was asleep in the backseat of the car. He survived the attack and reportedly ran to get help.

    However, not everyone considers Locci and Lo Bianco to be victims of Il Mostro. Michele Giuttari, a former lead investigator for the case, told The Guardian in October 2025 that the “Sardinia Trail” was a red herring and that the ballistics connection between the 1968 and 1974 murders had not been proven.

    Was Mele convicted of Lo Bianco and Locci’s murders?

    Emanuela Scarpa/Netflix 'The Monster of Florence'.

    Emanuela Scarpa/Netflix

    ‘The Monster of Florence’.

    In the real-life case, Locci’s husband was convicted of the double homicide in 1970 and sentenced to 45 years in prison, per Biography and Forbes. Mele had initially confessed to killing his wife and Lo Bianco, with whom she had been having an affair, according to TIME. However, he later retracted his statement and shifted the blame onto several Sardinian men who allegedly had romantic ties to Locci.

    One of those men was Francesco Vinci, whom Locci also allegedly had an affair with. He was arrested along with his brother, Salvatore Vinci, Mele’s brother, Giovanni Mele, and Mele’s brother-in-law, Piero Mucciarini.

    Mele was freed when police linked Locci and Lo Bianco’s murders to other killings that had happened when he was incarcerated. The same happened to all the Sardinian suspects, who were officially cleared in 1989.

    Did Salvatore Vinci kill his first wife?

    Emanuela Scarpa/Netflix 'The Monster of Florence'.

    Emanuela Scarpa/Netflix

    ‘The Monster of Florence’.

    When police focused on Salvatore Vinci as a suspect, it came to light that his late wife had died in the 1960s under suspicious circumstances in Sardinia, according to The Guardian and TIME. Police believed he was romantically involved not only with Locci but also with Mele.

    In 1985, he was tried and acquitted for the murder of his first wife. After that, he disappeared. The last Il Mostro murder — when French couple Nadine Mauriot and Jean Michel Kraveichvili were shot while on a camping holiday — happened that same year.

    Read the original article on People

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  • The Greats: Florence Welch, Lorna Simpson, Jonathan Anderson and Theaster Gates

    The Greats: Florence Welch, Lorna Simpson, Jonathan Anderson and Theaster Gates

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    O winged Lady,
    Like a bird
    You scavenge the land.
    Like a charging storm
    You charge,
    Like a roaring storm
    You roar,
    You thunder in thunder,
    Snort in rampaging winds.
    Your feet are continually restless.
    Carrying your harp of sighs,
    You breathe out the music of mourning.

    — from “Hymn to Inanna” by Enheduanna,
    translated from the Sumerian by Jane Hirshfield

    PROPHETESS

    ONE RISKS ANGERING the gods if one visits an oracle empty-handed. When I rang the Camberwell, South London, doorbell of Florence Welch, I held a tribute: “The Penguin Book of Spiritual Verse” (2022), edited by Kaveh Akbar. It has a poem in it by Enheduanna, the first named poet in written historical records, a Sumerian princess and priestess who lived over 4,000 years ago. Ancient priestesses made their bodies a conduit for collective transcendence and, now that the old gods have abandoned us, we secular souls tend to find our collective transcendence at concerts. I’ve never seen Welch’s band, Florence and the Machine, perform live, only on YouTube, I’ve only heard her music streaming on repeat for years, and yet I often find myself carried out of my body by Welch’s enormous voice, her rage and power. There’s a sizzling line that starts with Enheduanna and runs all the way to Welch; they’re both performers of spiritual enormity who, through incantation of words, open a channel to vast mysteries.

    What was I expecting? Impossibilities. A modern Madame Blavatsky all dressed in gauze, trembling shadows, eyes like dark whirlpools. Instead, on that July day, after her assistant let me in, Welch ran up from her garden a creature of flesh and blood, wearing a prim prairie dress with flowers speckled all over it. She is tall — somewhere near 5-foot-10 — ardent and elegant, with long red Pre-Raphaelite hair and the strong-boned face of a medieval saint. She has an incredible vigor to her speech, which is frequently crowded with images. She was talking even before coming into the room and spoke nonstop for hours, thoughtfully, in loops and circuits; I only interjected a few times. With other people, being monologued at like this might have been hellish, but Welch was a little goofy, quite funny — her laugh is deep, sudden, frequent and startlingly loud. On multiple occasions during our hours together, she paced in excitement. Once she sped off upstairs to fetch something, coming down the staircase with such fast footsteps that I was briefly afraid she’d tumble the rest of the way.

    “Poems!” said Welch, flipping through the book I brought. “Great!” And then in a flash the book vanished, never to be seen again.

    The singer on the Fleetwood Mac song that feels like riding a roller coaster.

    Video by Jerome Monnot

    In fairness, a single book would be easily lost among the stuffed bookshelves everywhere in her house. Welch is a real reader: She presides over a book club called Between Two Books and, in full disclosure, drew from my 2018 short story collection, “Florida,” when she was writing lyrics for the song “Florida!!!,” her 2024 collaboration with Taylor Swift. Her rooms replicate her maximalist, ecstatic music: high ceilings; many paintings and drawings; thick woolen Oriental rugs. Everything is layered and made of complex patterns, with William Morris prints and hand-marbled boxes in intense colors like peacock blue, goldenrod, raspberry sorbet.

    Because the best way is often straight through, I tried to start our conversation with a question about mysticism, but she refused to be boxed in. She said, laughing, that she can read tarot, but she refused to define her spirituality, beyond repeating a quip of her mother, Evelyn Welch’s, a Renaissance expert and currently the vice chancellor of the University of Bristol, who called her daughter “an animist.” Maybe she meant that, to her daughter, things like sunlight and the ocean have a soul. Welch’s earliest spiritual moment came when she was an imaginative small child in Camberwell — where her parents lived, not far from her current house — just looking at beams of light coming through her bedroom window and feeling connected to something larger.

    Chanel coat, price on request, (800) 550-0005; Valentino tights (worn underneath), $1,000; and Welch’s own dress, headband and jewelry.

    Photograph by Luis Alberto Rodriguez. Styled by Vanessa Reid

    This resistance to being pigeonholed would become a motif of our weekend: Welch wouldn’t say whom she was dating, only that he was a British guitarist, so that she wouldn’t be defined by her relationship (honestly, good for her!); she’s as vulnerable and honest as an incredibly famous human could possibly be: She gently but firmly resisted every time I tried to ask if she considered herself a pop star, or even what kind of music, actually, she would say she makes.

    An aversion to definition is a great gift to an artist like Welch. It allows her to change and grow in public. But it’s an equal source of confusion to critics, who’ve struggled to place her since the first of her five albums, 2009’s “Lungs.” Of course, no artist is truly sui generis — art is built out of other art — but it’s odd that Welch so confounds critics with her mix of soul and goth-punk and ethereal power ballads, as well as the way that she presents herself as closer kin to 1960s rock goddesses than to the hyperproduced pop stars of today, that the aforementioned critics have only rarely likened her to the musicians who’ve been her truest influences. Among these are Nick Cave, Patti Smith, Stevie Nicks, Tom Waits, Jeff Buckley, Sam Cooke and Otis Redding, whose live version of 1967’s “Try a Little Tenderness” Welch watched obsessively on YouTube in her early 20s when she was teaching herself how to perform, his energy building as the song goes until, she said, “he just tears the stage apart.”

    Perhaps it’s enough to say that Welch has one of the most distinctively powerful voices in popular music. My friend the 33-year-old performer Ganavya Doraiswamy, who’s trained in both jazz and South Asian devotional singing — the only other person I’ve ever met with a voice whose power and distinctiveness could match Welch’s — said that she has uyir, Tamil for “life breath,” in her voice, which Doraiswamy was trained to listen for as the soul of vocal art. “It sounds sometimes like [she] is singing to herself and we get to listen in, like we are privy to someone singing to themselves, and they’re making the world less unbearable,” she said. Uyir seems to be something like Federico García Lorca’s duende, of which the great Spanish poet said in a 1933 lecture, “All that has dark sounds has duende. … The duende is a force not a labor, a struggle not a thought. I heard an old maestro of the guitar say: ‘The duende is not in the throat: the duende surges up, inside, from the soles of the feet.’ Meaning, it’s not a question of skill but of a style that’s truly alive: meaning, it’s in the veins: meaning, it’s of the most ancient culture of immediate creation.”

    Uyir and duende may be lofty claims to make of a creator and performer of pop songs, but we have all been brainwashed to discount popular culture because of its very popularity, to believe that anything beloved by the masses is inherently lesser than esoteric art. This is a begging-the-question fallacy disproved all the time by great popular geniuses like Shakespeare, Mozart, Toni Morrison, Lorca himself. The music of Florence and the Machine is ubiquitous — the night before I left Florida for London, some stranger covered 2008’s “Dog Days Are Over” at karaoke; the band’s 2011 “Shake It Out” was piped over the loudspeakers while I waited for my plane in the airport — and it is excellent. It’s absurd to have to insist that both popularity and excellence can coexist.

    The music’s ubiquity is perhaps because of the fact that Florence and the Machine sound like nothing else out there in the musical landscape. It’s also, perhaps, because of the spooky vastness of Welch’s vision. Jack Antonoff, the 40-year-old producer and musician with whom Welch worked on her last album, 2022’s “Dance Fever,” said that she might be “literally clairvoyant.” And it’s true: Over and over, her songs predict the world to come. For instance, she wrote the lyrics for several of the album’s songs in 2019, including those of “Choreomania,” a song that Welch based on the 1518 dancing sickness in Strasbourg, where people actually danced until they died. The lyrics, with their frantic repetition of “Something’s coming, so out of breath” became prophetic when Covid-19 started spreading in 2020. “I didn’t know exactly what was coming,” Welch said, “but I knew it was dark.”

    Welch may not call herself spiritual, but the thing she kept pulling herself away from speaking about is the thing at the center of her, which she sometimes calls “the monster,” sometimes “the beast.” She struggles to control it, but it seems to be the source of her creative energy. “The beast is very good when it’s onstage. The monster is really useful and full of rage and glory and power,” she said. But as soon as she began talking about the beast, she grew agitated; it felt wrong. Her spiritual sense “doesn’t feel like something I should advertise, because it’s really sacred,” she told me, and changed the topic once more.

    When an oracle hears the voice of God and shares what she heard with others, she’s doing the same thing that an artist does while making art. Art is the alchemy by which grand abstractions become material. More than anything else, art requires the body of the artist, readied through time and practice and effort and some sort of innate spark, to become a sort of portal. Welch steps onstage and this portal is immediately available to her. To have the kind of transparency and vulnerability that allows such immediate access to the eternal, mysterious energy requires a great deal from the artist. Which is to say that art so powerful and immediate is demonic in its demands on the small, fleshly human that holds it.

    Ferragamo dress, $5,000, ferragamo.com; Chanel hat, $4,500; and Welch’s own shawl.

    Photograph by Luis Alberto Rodriguez. Styled by Vanessa Reid

    HARP OF SIGHS

    HOW DO YOU build a modern priestess? Welch was born like ordinary humans in August 1986; she’s currently 38. Her father, Nick Welch, is a former British advertising executive and, as his daughter called him, “bohemian”; he was the one who introduced her to bands like the Ramones and the Smiths when she was little. Through her mother’s specialty in Renaissance history, as well as family visits to ancient churches, Welch was deeply impressed as a child by the glorious, gory, vermilion-and-gold Catholic imagery, with its St. Sebastians pierced by arrows and St. Agathas with breasts on platters. She loved Greek mythology, she loved history. But nightmares plagued even her daylight hours, and her only escape from the monsters, ghosts and demons that her anxiety summoned was into books. Her mother wanted her to be an academic, but Welch was a daydreamer and had difficulty at school, having dyslexia, dyspraxia and something close to dyscalculia, and she would sneak out of the classroom to sing in the school hallways where the acoustics were good.

    Even when Welch was small, she had a Big Voice. She showed me a photo of herself as this little girl in a gingham dress, clutching a trophy for singing. The voice that “came out of that was oddly adult, sensual,” she said. Her mother was always yelling at her to shut up because she’d be singing at the top of her lungs while her mother was trying to write her books. It turns out that the Big Voice is as much a physiological gift as it is a vocation: Welch has a strong diaphragm, a large rib cage with huge lung capacity — which makes finding the vintage dresses that she loves tricky — as well as vocal cords of titanium. Once, fearing that she was losing her voice on tour, she went to see a specialist in Toronto, who looked down her throat only to respond, “Oh, yeah, your vocal cords are like a tank. You’re never gonna lose your voice,” she said. Music was the only thing she ever wanted to do, “Like, I will die if I don’t do it,” she said; singing was the companion that kept her from being alone with the terror. She longed to be in musical theater, but her mother was “the opposite of a stage mom,” Welch added dryly, and only reluctantly conceded to classical voice lessons. The singer trained in opera as a soprano and was only allowed to belt out a Disney song or show tune at the end of her lessons.

    The first time she appeared onstage, it was in a school performance of the musical “Bugsy Malone” (1976), and she blew everyone out of the water. “From a really young age, probably like 10, we knew that she was going to be really famous,” said her sister, Grace, who is younger than Welch by three years. (They have a brother, as well, and three stepsiblings.) Welch was hurt after their parents divorced when she was 10, the couple suffering from “simmering, silent resentment but no fights,” she said. She developed an eating disorder when she was a young adolescent. Then, when she was 14, she had her first taste of vodka and felt herself rise, transcendent, out of her anxieties. “Somehow alcohol allowed me to expand, to have freedom from the constraints of the body,” she said. “The first time I had hard spirits, it felt spiritual. I felt warm, I felt free, I felt at peace. It freed me from the relentlessness of thoughts.”

    All Welch wants is the grace that male performers get. The grace to age in public; the grace to put art at the center of one’s life and not have to be a woman or a mother first.

    Suddenly she was a party girl, dancing barefoot over broken glass in nightclubs in ripped vintage dresses. She bartended for a year after secondary school and got deeper into the “doomed Dickensian pirate ship,” as she described it, that was the South London music scene in the early 2000s, when rebellious young artists lived in squats. Welch, like the rest of them, drank to excess and screamed onstage in punk bands. She entered Camberwell College of Arts but dropped out after one year. As a teenager, she also experimented with folk, country and hip-hop-influenced rock. She got her first gig by singing in a nightclub bathroom — more good acoustics — and called her band the Machine after the nickname of one of its long-term members, Isabella Summers, who was a close co-writer, producer and collaborator on the first few albums but hasn’t been involved in the most recent ones. While still a teenager, Welch co-wrote the first song — the punk-pop “Kiss With a Fist” — that, after the band was signed in 2008, became big for them worldwide.

    “Lungs,” released the next year, is very much a first album, exuberant in its range of styles. “Dog Days Are Over” was the second single, and the first song that would contain everything that Welch’s music has become known for: intense and pure feeling; elliptical lyrics; strange, catchy drums; a tune that starts soft and builds into a great crescendo of sound. Again, critics didn’t get the album — they likened Welch to Fiona Apple, Kate Bush, Regina Spektor, Annie Lennox, Joanna Newsom, Sinead O’Connor, artists whose music has very little to do with one another’s but, well, they’re songwriters and women at the same time, so they must be similar! Some critics were weirdly condescending in their incomprehension: One wrote in Rolling Stone that the “best bits feel like being chased through a moonless night by a sexy moor witch,” which … what is that supposed to sound like? Screaming in terror while trying to run with an erection?

    The pressure of new fame was so intense that the singer kept dancing with self-destruction. “In order to protect myself from the public gaze,” she said, “I shrank myself offstage.” When she and her band were working on what would become their first singles, her partying was so out of hand that she nearly blew it with the record company; she was too much of a liability, disappearing for three days into a bender and showing up at a pub mysteriously covered in blue paint. She was also in thrall to an eating disorder, a way to try to impose control on a life that felt uncontrollable. Grace became her personal assistant, and a great deal of the burden of the singer’s bad behavior fell on her. Grace loved her sister, looked up to her and now regrets bitterly how she enabled her. Welch lost days partying, blackout drunk, on drugs. Grace says now that the family has “this joke, like, ‘Thank God she was famous.’ She’s always been supercreative and supercomplicated and supertroubled, and if she didn’t have all that money and, like, a team of people propping her up in her 20s, she’d totally be dead.” Back then, Welch still lived at the family home in Camberwell; she’s an artist who needs to be rooted in place to make her art and hasn’t ever moved away from the neighborhood. Still, no matter how drunk or brutally hung over she was, she was always able to get up onstage and perform.

    There’s a rigid cycle in music making: One starts in the studio, creating the songs, which at this point with streaming are practically given away for free; to make money, one has to embark on a grueling two- to three-year schedule of performances, a lifestyle that lends itself easily to drugs and alcohol. Performing in massive venues is hugely physically taxing, particularly when one does it with Welch’s commitment. She throws her entire body into her songs, dances barefoot because she needs to feel the ground beneath her. She has twice broken her foot midway through her concerts but never stopped, instead singing through the pain. A great performer is something of an energy worker, creating a collective experience through her voice and body, and energy needs to be rebuilt before it’s expended again. She tried to control her alcoholism by not drinking when she was performing, but that was worse: She began to binge when she wasn’t on tour.

    In 2011, the band released the album “Ceremonials,” which Welch described as a “wall of sound, a wall of aesthetic,” a tumultuous wrestling with her addiction. “I was wandering around like a superhigh Gustav Klimt painting,” she said. The recurrent imagery is that of drowning; in the single “Shake It Out,” the line “It’s hard to dance with a devil on your back” repeats so often it becomes almost frantic.

    Not long after, on the singer’s 27th birthday, her mother gave a moving speech, begging her daughter not to join the 27 Club, the group of tormented artists who’d died as a result of addiction, the rock ’n’ roll lifestyle and the radical exposure it requires to be an artist at that age: Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison, Kurt Cobain. Welch had shown up to her birthday party drunk and high. Perhaps because of the immensity of her shame, she smashed her whole face into her birthday cake.

    There was a moment in the months afterward, lying on the floor of her room, that Welch began to tell me about, saying that she was praying, “Help me, please help me, help me, help me,” but then she trailed off. One doesn’t speak about the holy. “It feels like a betrayal to the thing that helped me,” she said. In any event, after that night, Welch became sober.

    For a year, the singer was a “completely broken person,” she said. She’d always loved clothes, had delighted in her dresses onstage, but now she wore the same “horrible blue tracksuit” everywhere. Later on, she had treatment for her eating disorder. When I asked her what had taken the place of the addictions, she told me matter-of-factly, “The performance. The music.”

    The albums that came afterward were a kind of resetting. For 2015’s “How Big, How Blue, How Beautiful,” Welch had just been broken up with and had herself broken up with drugs and alcohol. As a result, the music was stripped down instrumentally, the cover image was black and white and onstage she wore a more masculine suit instead of her previous flowy dresses. Welch was, perhaps not coincidentally, taken more seriously as an artist. When Dave Grohl of the Foo Fighters broke his leg and the band had to pull out of headlining the 2015 Glastonbury Festival, Florence and the Machine were asked to replace them. She began to write more poetry. In 2018, Florence and the Machine released “High as Hope,” which is even more stripped down and intimate, with Welch’s poetry becoming its lyrics.

    In addition to her albums, the singer has been working for eight years on a musical version of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s 1925 novel, “The Great Gatsby,” called “Gatsby: An American Myth,” which I saw in June at the American Repertory Theater in Cambridge, Mass. She was drawn to the book, she said, by the drunkenness and hangover in it, the doomed romanticism, “the way the page sings.” The show got a standing ovation. I thought it was fine. At times, everything was so on the nose that I felt I was being hit with a soft right hook. The set is half nightclub, half car crash, just like the Roaring Twenties; all the characters’ costumes have dirty hems, as though to semaphore that none of them have quite risen above the muck of the American dream. The music is a collaboration between Welch and Thomas Bartlett, who, in addition to being a co-producer and co-writer on some songs on Florence and the Machine’s “High as Hope,” is a gifted musician who’s worked with everyone from Nico Muhly to Yoko Ono and Sufjan Stevens. The songs they made are excellent and surprising, with exciting and slithery Jazz Age rhythms. But art gets in trouble when it becomes polemical, which many of the songs were. I began to wonder if a musical would ever be the right vehicle for a story like “The Great Gatsby.” Musical theater is the most American art form that exists, all dazzle and jazz hands, but Fitzgerald’s novel draws its power from the lightness of its allusions. Things that are hinted at in the book — like Nick Carraway’s crush on Jay Gatsby, or Gatsby’s gangster past — get their own numbers. That said, songs are still being made and discarded. The version I saw, which might one day move to Broadway, hadn’t settled into its final form, and it’s a sin to judge art before it’s finished.

    Welch’s most recent album, “Dance Fever,” is my favorite; I played it so often that my younger son began to call it “Mommy’s church.” I find it almost unbearably beautiful, a confirmation that Welch’s songwriting keeps getting more powerful. She had already written the first two songs — “King” and “Free” — and was in the studio in New York City in March 2020 with Antonoff when the pandemic hit, and they had to flee to their respective corners. The rest of the songs arrived as Welch’s anxiety spiraled in her London home, the project something of a diary of those years of isolation. Listening now, it feels like a wild, anxious, terrified, hedonistic catharsis of that awful time, a ritual cleansing of the collective grief that we still haven’t fully processed as a culture.

    Louis Vuitton dress, price on request, louisvuitton.com; and Welch’s own dress (worn underneath) and jewelry.

    Photograph by Luis Alberto Rodriguez. Styled by Vanessa Reid

    PORTRAITURE

    THE DAY AFTER I visited her house, I met Welch at the Tate Britain to see a John Singer Sargent exhibition. The turn-of-the-20th-century portraits were huge and dramatic and vividly emotional, the rooms thickly crowded. I said I loved the subjects’ expressions; Sargent was a master of distilling character in the subtle look on a face. “I love the fashion,” Welch responded and gestured at “Portrait of Miss Elsie Palmer” (1889-90), depicting a young American girl with reddish hair and bangs like Welch’s, wearing a layered pale pink dress with a pleated underskirt and bodice, her waist tightly cinched.

    As we walked, astonishment took hold in me that nobody seemed to recognize the superstar beside me. I’d been sure we’d be so swarmed that I’d had fantasies I’d have to double as a bodyguard, fending fans off with my enormous Muji notebook. But no one did, despite the fact that Welch was on such a state of hyperalert that, when I once tried to take a photo of a stunning Sargent dress on a dummy and her head happened to be in the frame, she swiveled so fast toward me and gave me a look of such searing disdain that I felt flayed. The monster had risen up in her face for a moment. It was terrifying.

    Perhaps people in crowds at art museums are deeply unobservant of those around them, only anxious to see the works on the wall; perhaps it was because, with her pale, thin elegance and her feminine dress — delicate flowers on a green field, discreet ruffles and a filigree of off-white lace — she looked as though she were herself a Sargent subject stepping out of the frame. Most likely, however, it was because Welch has built such a powerful public image, a glamorous pagan priestess hologram, that the human person behind it simply didn’t square. Maybe her fans didn’t recognize her because the performer is a giantess and the person is merely person-size.

    The image of Florence and the Machine is a curious thing. It’s intricate and carefully constructed, vivid and clear in its referents and set intentionally outside of the contemporary moment, which allows the singer to change and refine the way she presents herself to the world. She seized on it early, after some industry people’s unhappy experiments with trying to market the young singer-songwriter in miniskirts and high-heeled shoes. But she couldn’t sell sex. “I’ve always looked like a haunted painting,” she said, and it’s true that, though she’s beautiful, a bad photograph would show her features as harsh, stern. She also didn’t want to sell sex: “I wanted to be scary when I was younger, not sexy.”

    To refuse to do so was intentional; it was also lucky. A female artist who’s marketed as sexy must stay at the same level of sexy even as she ages, which is increasingly hard to do, what with gravity and slipping hormones and the frankly fascinating processes of living beyond the body’s natural fertility. Britney Spears will never not exist in the public imagination as a nubile teen in a schoolgirl kilt. Dolly Parton is closing in on 80 with the same blond bouffant and enhanced breasts that she once, at an awards ceremony, called “Shock” and “Awe.” I’d never judge any performer for using her sexuality to sell records; trying to sell art at all is a grind, particularly at the beginning of one’s career, and if the universe has given you a gift of such reach and power, it would be difficult not to use it. But this form of beauty is something of a gilded cage, a safe place for a little time, though also a trap that a woman can’t escape.

    Chloé dress, $6,490, and dress (worn underneath), $3,990, chloe.com; and Welch’s own crown, shawl and jewelry.

    Photograph by Luis Alberto Rodriguez. Styled by Vanessa Reid

    Instead of selling a sexualized image, Welch, with the collaboration of music video and photography directors, has created a visual world that’s been seized on by her fans and replicated at her concerts, which can resemble teeming fantasy fashion shows. From the stage, she can look out on a sea of bloody prairie maidens with flower crowns, mermaids with sharp teeth, weeping martyrs, witches in purple silken cloaks, Jesus, tattered ghosts, all images from her songs and videos. Autumn de Wilde, 54, first directed Welch in the 2018 music video for “Big God,” which is shot as though in outer space, on a stark black stage in a shining one-inch pool of water pierced with high-contrast light. As Welch sings, the dancers’ colorful veils darken as they get wet, then are discarded, until at last Welch levitates the dancers with her voice. “Given the opportunity,” de Wilde said, “if you put her in any world, she will make it iconic and gigantic. You can’t have that without her vulnerability.” The Florence and the Machine aesthetic draws from Pre-Raphaelite tawny goddesses; photos by the 19th-century artist Julia Margaret Cameron; Surrealist 20th-century paintings by Leonora Carrington and Remedios Varo; the modern dancer Loie Fuller; exhausted cancan dancers; pastel moths. All come from the same spiritual universe, as dark as true fairy tales tend to be, confections of extreme beauty with neon venom laced through.

    It wasn’t until I spoke with de Wilde that I changed my mind about Welch’s image; at first I thought she wielded it like a shield, meaning that she’d constructed it purely to protect the fragility beneath. After, I saw it was something of a seashell, all spikes, dazzling colors, mother-of-pearl gleam. Both shield and shell are created in order to protect the tender flesh within, but a shield is the result of a huge amount of human labor, mining and refining and beating of the hot metal, and a shell is a natural emanation of the beast that builds it. Florence and the Machine is the singer’s true self, but writ large, her imagination allowed freedom to play. The child who spent hours gazing at the light in her room has taken her visions of monsters and saints and demons and graces and made them real.

    One of the final portraits at the Sargent show was the well-known “Ellen Terry as Lady MacBeth” (1889), the actress bloody mouthed, with long red braids to her knees, wearing a shining green-and-gold dress, placing a crown upon her head. “We drew on this painting a lot to build our look for ‘Dance Fever,’” Welch told me quietly, smiling.

    At this — seeing the queen, her face become a stark mask of ambition — I had a powerful moment of déjà vu. I thought of the lyrics to “King,” when, at the beginning, Welch sings in a low register: “We argue in the kitchen about whether to have children / about the world ending, and the scale of my ambition / And how much art is really worth / The very thing you’re best at is the thing that hurts the most.”

    Christ on a stick! Show me another popular song that speaks in such a compact way of such vast things: the moral burden of bringing children into the Anthropocene, huge ambition in a female artist, how it’s all complicated when one considers a baby’s hijacking of the body for 40 weeks — and beyond, if the mother is nursing. There are so few examples of female musicians who were able to uphold a rigorous touring schedule after they’d had children that Welch and I could only think of one: Beyoncé. Exacerbating the mixed craving for and fear of having a baby and what it would mean for her art, Welch feels the intense pressure of aging as a female performer. “At 40, what are you supposed to do? Die?” she asked, then laughed darkly. “King” goes on to insist, “I am no mother, I am no bride, I am king.” She isn’t a queen, accessory to power; she’s power itself. “I was also thinking of the King of Rock,” Welch said, referring to Elvis Presley; she was thinking of the right of male artists to let their art be separate from the body, to let the art be so central that everything else is peripheral. In the latter part of the song, Welch raises her voice in a long howl of rage. Maybe I revel in her work because so much of it is simply overflowing with rage, her perfect voice embodying all that subsumed rage that I swallow every day and allowing it to bloom out into the world, a gorgeous shining pitch-black flower.

    All Welch wants is the grace that male performers get. The grace to age in public; the grace to put art at the center of one’s life and not have to be a woman or a mother first. If the universe gives an artist the nearly unlimited ability to become a conduit to the astonishing eternal mysteries, what a grinding check to her momentum when she bumps up against human-imposed boundaries of misogyny. How much worse must be the body’s own betrayal! How enraging that, even as an artist earns more wisdom and depth and artistry — begins to understand how to pull the uncanny powers of the beyond down into constant display on the earth — the body begins to lose its vital energy, and the cost of being alive begins to wear you down.

    Art begins in the body; art is limited by the limitations of the body; at some point, art exceeds the body and can live beyond the scope of flesh. I watched Welch look deeply at the gothic, gory Sargent painting of Ellen Terry, and I saw — or imagined I saw — the beast in her surfacing for a moment, hungry for the magic that Sargent enacted on his subjects, allowing them to be fully seen, to be held in the brightest of colors, to be shown to the world eternal in the moment of their greatest glory. Among the many other things Welch refuses to be defined by, she refuses to be defined by time. The tragedy of the Cumean Sibyl, according to the ancient Roman poet Ovid, was that, though the god Apollo did cede to her pleas to give her life beyond the scope of the mortal span, over a thousand years her body shrank until only her voice remained. This is the fate of all artists. All have to come to terms with it at some point. Welch, preternaturally gifted as she is, isn’t exempt.

    But until then, oh, you gods who power her, oh, you humans who make her life hum, just let the woman sing.

    Hair by Anthony Turner at Jolly Collective. Makeup by Thom Walker at Art + Commerce. Set design by Afra Zamara at Second Name. Production: Farago Projects. Lighting technician: Jack Symes. Digital tech: Sam Hearn. Photo assistants: Daiki Tajima, Federico Covarelli. Manicurist: Emily Rose Lansley at The Wall Group. Hairstylist’s assistant: John Allan. Makeup assistant: Samanta Falcone. Set designer’s assistant: Ollie Kariel. Tailor: Pip Long at Karen Avenell. Styling assistants: Andreea Georgiana Rădoi, Sam Wright

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  • Tourists are packing European hotspots, boosted by Americans

    Tourists are packing European hotspots, boosted by Americans

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    VENICE, Italy (AP) — Tourists are waiting more than two hours to visit the Acropolis in Athens. Taxi lines at Rome’s main train station are running just as long. And so many visitors are concentrating around St. Mark’s Square in Venice that crowds get backed up crossing bridges — even on weekdays.

    After three years of pandemic limitations, tourism is expected to exceed 2019 records in some of Europe’s most popular destinations this summer, from Barcelona and Rome, Athens and Venice to the scenic islands of Santorini in Greece, Capri in Italy and Mallorca in Spain.

    While European tourists edged the industry toward recovery last year, the upswing this summer is led largely by Americans, boosted by a strong dollar and in some cases pandemic savings. Many arrive motivated by “revenge tourism” — so eager to explore again that they’re undaunted by higher airfares and hotel costs.

    Lauren Gonzalez, 25, landed in Rome this week with four high school and college friends for a 16-day romp through the Italian capital, Florence and the seaside after three years of U.S. vacations. They aren’t concerned about the high prices and the crowds.

    “We kind of saved up, and we know this is a trip that is meaningful,” said Gonzalez, who works at a marketing agency. “We are all in our mid-20s. It’s a (moment of) change in our lives. … This is something special. The crowds don’t deter us. We live in Florida. We have all been to Disney World in the heat. We are all good.”

    Americans appear equally unperturbed by recent riots in Paris and other French cities. There was a small drop in flight bookings, but it was mainly for domestic travel.

    “Some of my friends said, ‘It’s a little crazy there right now,’ but we thought summer is really a good time for us to go, so we’ll just take precautions,” Joanne Titus, a 38-year-old from Maryland, said while strolling the iconic Champs-Elysees shopping boulevard.

    The return of mass tourism is a boon to hotels and restaurants, which suffered under COVID-19 restrictions. But there is a downside, too, as pledges to rethink tourism to make it more sustainable have largely gone unheeded.

    “The pandemic should have taught us a lesson,” said Alessandra Priante, director of the regional department for Europe at the U.N. World Tourism Organization.

    Instead, she said, the mindset “is about recuperating the cash. Everything is about revenue, about the here and now.”

    “We have to see what is going to happen in two or three years’ time because the prices at the moment are unsustainable,” she said.

    The mayor of Florence is stopping new short-term apartment rentals from proliferating in the historic center, which is protected as a UNESCO heritage site, as mayors of Italy’s other art cities call for a nationwide law to manage the sector.

    Elsewhere, the anti-mass tourism movements that were active before the pandemic have not reappeared, but the battle lines are still being drawn: graffiti misdirected tourists in Barcelona away from — instead of toward — the Gaudi-designed Park Guell.

    Despite predictable pockets of overtourism, travel to and within Europe overall is still down 10% from 2019, according to the World Tourism Organization. That is partly due to fewer people visiting countries close to the war in Ukraine, including Lithuania, Finland, Moldova and Poland.

    In addition, Chinese visitors have not fully returned, with flights from China and other Asia-Pacific countries down 45% from 2019, according to travel data company ForwardKeys.

    Tourism-dependent Greece expects 30 million visitors this year, still shy of 2019’s 34 million record. Still, the number of flights are up so far, and tourist hotspots are taking the brunt.

    The Culture Ministry will introduce a new ticketing system for the Acropolis this month, providing hourly slots for visitors to even out crowds. But no remedy is being discussed for the parking line of cruise ships on the islands of Mykonos and Santorini on busy mornings.

    Tourists visit the Acropolis ancient hill, in Athens, Greece, Tuesday, July 4, 2023. Crowds are packing the Colosseum, the Louvre, the Acropolis and other major attractions as tourism exceeds 2019 records in some of Europe’s most popular destinations. While European tourists helped the industry on the road to recovery last year, the upswing this summer is led largely by Americans, who are lifted by a strong dollar and in some cases pandemic savings. (AP Photo/Thanassis Stavrakis)
    Tourists visit the Acropolis ancient hill, in Athens, Greece, Tuesday, July 4, 2023. Crowds are packing the Colosseum, the Louvre, the Acropolis and other major attractions as tourism exceeds 2019 records in some of Europe’s most popular destinations. While European tourists helped the industry on the road to recovery last year, the upswing this summer is led largely by Americans, who are lifted by a strong dollar and in some cases pandemic savings. (AP Photo/Thanassis Stavrakis) –

    Thanassis Stavrakis/AP

    Revellers, mostly tourists, look on from balconies at the running of the bulls during the San Fermín fiestas in Pamplona, Spain, Saturday, July 8, 2023. Crowds are packing the Colosseum, the Louvre, the Acropolis and other major attractions as tourism exceeds 2019 records in some of Europe’s most popular destinations. While European tourists helped the industry on the road to recovery last year, the upswing this summer is led largely by Americans, who are lifted by a strong dollar and in some cases pandemic savings. (AP Photo/Alvaro Barrientos)
    Revellers, mostly tourists, look on from balconies at the running of the bulls during the San Fermín fiestas in Pamplona, Spain, Saturday, July 8, 2023. Crowds are packing the Colosseum, the Louvre, the Acropolis and other major attractions as tourism exceeds 2019 records in some of Europe’s most popular destinations. While European tourists helped the industry on the road to recovery last year, the upswing this summer is led largely by Americans, who are lifted by a strong dollar and in some cases pandemic savings. (AP Photo/Alvaro Barrientos) –

    Alvaro Barrientos/AP

    Spain’s tourism minister, Héctor Gómez, called it “a historic summer for tourism,” with 8.2 million tourists arriving in May alone, breaking records for a second straight month. Still, some hotel groups say reservations slowed in the first weeks of summer, owing to the steep rise in prices for flights and rooms.

    Costs are growing as flights from the U.S. to Europe are up 2% from 2019 levels, according to ForwardKeys.

    “The rising appetite for long-haul travel from America is the continued result of the ‘revenge travel’ boom caused by the pandemic lockdowns,” said Tim Hentschel, CEO of HotelPlanner, a booking site. “Big cities within these popular European countries are certainly going to be busy during the summer.”

    Americans have pushed arrivals in Italian bucket-list destinations like Rome, Florence, Venice and Capri above pre-pandemic levels, according to Italy’s hotel association, Federalberghi.

    Here’s the latest for Thursday July 13th: New attack on Kyiv, Ukraine; Two Birmingham, Alabama firefighters shot; Tornado strikes Chicago area; US heat wave not cooling off.

    They bring a lot of pent-up buying power: U.S. tourists in Italy spent 74% more in tax-free indulgences in the first three months of the year, compared with same period of 2019.

    “Then there is the rest of Italy that lives from Italian and European tourism, and at the moment, it is still under 2019 levels,” Federalberghi president Bernabo Bocca said.

    He expects it will take another year for an across-the-board recovery. An economic slowdown discouraged German arrivals, while Italians “are less prone to spending this year,” he said.

    And wallets will be stretched. Lodging costs in Florence rose 53% over last year, while Venice saw a 25% increase and Rome a 21% hike, according to the Italian consumer group Codacons.

    Even gelato will cost a premium 21% over last year, due to higher sugar and milk prices.

    Perhaps nothing has encouraged the rise in tourism in key spots more than a surge in short-term apartment rentals. With hotel room numbers constant, Bocca of Federalberghi blames the surge for the huge crowds in Rome, inflating taxi lines and crowding crosswalks so that city buses cannot continue their routes.

    In Rome and Florence, “walking down the street, out of every building door, emerges a tourist with a suitcase,” he said.

    While Florence’s mayor is limiting the number of short-term rentals in the historic center to 8,000, no action has been taken in Venice. The canal-lined city counts 49,432 residents in its historic center and 49,272 tourist beds, nearly half of those being apartments available for short-term rental.

    Inconveniences are “daily,” said Giacomo Salerno, a researcher at Venice’s Ca’ Foscari University focusing on tourism.

    It difficult to walk down streets clogged with visitors or take public water buses “saturated with tourists with their suitcases,” he said.

    Students cannot find affordable housing because owners prefer to cash in with vacation rentals. The dwindling number of residents means a dearth of services, including a lack of family doctors largely due to the high cost of living, driven up by tourist demand.

    Venice has delayed plans to charge day-trippers a tax to enter the city, meant to curb arrivals. But activists like Salerno say that will do little to resolve the issue of a declining population and encroaching tourists, instead cementing Venice’s fate as “an amusement park.”

    “It would be like saying the only use for the city is touristic,’’ Salerno said.

    ____

    AP reporters Aritz Parra in Rome, Derek Gatopoulos in Athens, Ciaran Gilles in Madrid, Angela Charlton in Paris and Kelvin Chan in London contributed.

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  • Florence bans new short-term vacation rentals in Italian city’s historic center

    Florence bans new short-term vacation rentals in Italian city’s historic center

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    MILAN (AP) — The city of Florence on Thursday announced an immediate ban on new short-term private vacation rentals in the Renaissance city’s historic center, part of an effort to draw full-time residents back to one of Italy’s most popular tourist destinations.

    Mayor Dario Nardella called the ban “daring” but legally defensible.

    “If we don’t try to take politically disruptive actions, no one makes a move,” Nardella said, referring to expectations that the Italian government would adopt a plan that so far allows only Venice to cap the number of days a property can be rented out at 120.

    “We are tired of announcements,” Nardella said. “The problem has become structural.”

    Students in Italian cities, including Florence, Milan and Rome, have been camping out in tents on campuses to protest a lack of affordable housing. At the same time, art cities like Florence and Venice have seen their housing stocks depleted by short-term rentals, defined as covering any period less than 30 days.

    Nardella said the Florence government would not go after the 8,000 short-term private rentals already operating in the city’s historic center, an area under UNESCO protection as a historic treasure that includes the Uffizi galleries and the Ponte Vecchio. The city as a whole has about 11,000 short-term private rentals.

    Instead, the city plans to offer a tax incentive to property owners who convert their places back to long-term rentals. Under the plan, property taxes on a second home would be canceled for up to three years, potentially adding up to thousands of euros (dollars) in savings.

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  • 15th Century Italian Castle Near Florence Seeks A New Overlord

    15th Century Italian Castle Near Florence Seeks A New Overlord

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    This 15th century castle set in the Tuscan countryside has an enduring place in the history of Florence, Italy.

    The Cavalcanti Castle was constructed around 1427 by a descendant of Guido Cavalcanti, a renowned poet and friend of writer-philosopher Dante Alighieri. When the castle was built there were no notable figures within the still-prominent family, but they remained active in Florentine political and religious life. The Cavalcantis would regain their influence when marriage united them with the powerful Medici family.

    In the intervening centuries, the castle has undergone numerous expansions and restorations while retaining its architecture and distinctive features. Parapets line the roof of the solid stone structure (once a watchtower), which sits atop a hill covered in mature trees.

    “In past years, it has been utilized by prominent political figures and for celebrating various weddings,” says listing agent Francesco Di Pinto of Building Heritage. “Currently, the property is used for events, ceremonies and conferences.”

    The extensive grounds and Italian-style garden were designed around 1860 by then-owner Baron Adolfo Levi, who subsequently commissioned the restoration of the castle itself. Night lighting and the swimming pool in the inner garden are more recent improvements.

    The more than 26,000 square feet (2,450 square meters) of interior space, spanning three floors plus a basement, includes such architectural details as decorative groin-vaulted ceilings, archways and frescoed halls.

    A soaring beamed ceiling tops the massive dining room, which features a baronial fireplace and central chandelier. There are 17 bedrooms and 14 bathrooms.

    The asking price for the property, about 30 kilometers or nearly 19 miles from Florence, is €6 million or about US $6.35 million.

    “The estate could certainly be purchased by either a foreign or Italian investor, although current inquiries have predominantly come from abroad,” Di Pinto says. “The property presents an ideal investment opportunity for the creation of a boutique hotel or luxury residence just outside the city of Florence.”

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  • Florida Principal Fired In ‘Porn’ Flap Over David Statue Finally Sees It In Person

    Florida Principal Fired In ‘Porn’ Flap Over David Statue Finally Sees It In Person

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    ROME (AP) — A former Florida school principal who was forced to resign after students were shown an image of Michelangelo’s iconic statue of a nude David viewed the masterpiece in person on Friday in Florence.

    Cecilie Hollberg, who directs the Accademia Gallery in Florence, where the David is the star attraction, said that Hope Carrasquilla, her husband and two children, came straight to the museum right after they arrived in the city.

    Carrasquilla stepped down as principal of Tallahassee Classical school in the Florida city last month after one parent claimed the towering sculpture was pornographic. Other parents complained they weren’t notified in advance that their children would be shown the nude figure during a lesson featuring the Renaissance.

    Hosting Carrasquilla was an “immense pleasure,” the gallery director said.

    “I am happy to be able to welcome her and introduce her to the beauties of our museum, besides showing her the David, a sculpture that, I repeat as I have said, has nothing to do with pornography,″ Hollberg said in a written statement. “It’s a masterpiece, it represents a religious symbol of purity and innocence, the victory of good over evil.”

    Hollberg added that the work’s nudity “is a clear expression of the Renaissance, which puts man at the center of attention.”

    Michelangelo’s marble sculpture depicts the Biblical David, naked, with a sling over his shoulder and a rock in his hand, ready for battle with Goliath.

    A call to Carrasquilla’s cell phone went unanswered.

    Hollberg noted that currently more than 50% of the gallery visitors come from the United States.

    “I am sure that Mrs. Carrasquilla will find here, in Florence, the welcome and the solidarity that she deserves,″ the director added.

    The Florida school is attended by some 400 students from kindergarten through 12th grade.

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  • Steeped In Style And History, Aldo Gucci’s Roman Villa Comes To Light

    Steeped In Style And History, Aldo Gucci’s Roman Villa Comes To Light

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    A nearly 13,000-square-foot villa in North Rome bears a decidedly modernist imprimatur: the Gucci family name.

    Built by Aldo Gucci―son of Gucci dynasty founder, Guccio Gucci―the 1951 home is priced at €15 million ($15.885 million) and being sold by two of Aldo Gucci’s grandsons, the owners.

    The seven-bedroom property has six carved marble fireplaces, a sweeping entrance staircase, L-shaped pool and elevator accessing all four stories. Sited on nearly 2.5 acres, the grounds include a second 9,688-square-foot villa with five bedrooms built in the early 1960s for the eldest of Aldo Gucci’s three sons, Giorgio Gucci.

    The villa’s mansard and rooftop terrace afford an expansive view of the Eternal City―Vatican City, Piazza del Popolo and its churches and Rome’s titanic neoclassical hood ornament: Altare della Patria (“Altar of the Fatherland”), the Victor Emmanuel II National Monument.

    The estate that presides over that marbled landscape presents a fascinating snapshot of the life of clan patriarch Aldo Gucci who died at age 84 in 1990―the eldest and last surviving son of Florentine saddle and boot merchant Guccio Gucci. Guccio founded the company in 1904 and, in 1921, opened the House of Gucci in Florence.

    Aldo Gucci is credited with fortifying and expanding Gucci’s luxury empire during his more than three decades as the company’s chairman, from 1953 to 1986. Under his exacting leadership, Gucci shops became starry destinations frequented by the Princess of Monaco and the Duke of Windsor along with American royalty: Bette Davis, Jacqueline Kennedy and Katharine Hepburn, among many others.

    The cultured aesthetic behind that star-power branding is still evident in his villa, 33 years after his death.

    “Everything’s original,” says listing agent Chiara Gennarelli of Florence-based Building Heritage. “The family hasn’t changed anything, even during renovations.”

    That includes antique furnishings, crystal chandeliers and sconces, tapestries, rugs, a burnished rosewood grand piano sourced from Gaveau in Paris, 17th-century paintings, large urns and richly hued wallpaper―all reflecting the elegant sensibilities of the Gucci family.

    Most of the furnishings are available for purchase in negotiation with the sales price.

    Located in Camilluccia, a quiet residential pocket within Rome’s elegant Della Vittoria quarter, the villa is a blend of Tuscan and English styles, the latter reflecting the tastes of Aldo Gucci’s wife, the English-born Olwen Price.

    Entering from the north through the manor gate, a cobblestone road curves around the villa and a stone pathway leads straight ahead to the home’s marble staircase flanked with sentry lions.

    Largely oriented to the south, the villa is drenched in light even amid the towering cypress and pine that line paths and roads, which lend the expansive grounds a semi-wooded feel.

    Two English-inspired bay windows are stacked on the front right of the villa. At the rear, they’re situated side by side on the first floor. The home’s backside presents a more stately entrance with Tuscan columns topped by a pediment flanking the bay windows. There, another marble staircase leads to substantial wood-and-glass double doors fitted with brass handles in the shape of cherubs with outstretched wings.

    The home is painted a light peach accented with white trim.

    The villa’s entry sets a sophisticated tone with its marble fireplace handsomely bedecked by a casing of carved wood. The real show, however, is the dramatic sweep of a nautilus-shaped staircase, its walnut banister outlining the graceful shape, which is smartly contrasted by thin white molding at its base.

    The entry also includes a large art nook and arched doorways, also accented with white molding.

    The first floor harbors reception rooms, a salon, dining room, study and guest bathroom. Several of the bay windows have coffered ceilings. The living and dining rooms are anchored with carved marble fireplaces. All rooms feature generous crown molding.

    “The house is huge, but there’s a feeling that everything is close to you―reachable,” Gennarelli says. “You really feel at home.”

    Ascending the stairs, the second floor’s oval ceiling is delineated by 3-foot wide molding painted white. Contrasted by light tan walls, the set piece acts as a capstone for the remarkable curved staircase.

    Striking arched entries off the top of the staircase lead to five ensuite bedrooms. The primary bedroom suite has a bay window, fireplace, balcony, walk-in closet and a pink marble bathroom―about 375 square feet of space. Some bathrooms include Carrara marble and pedestal sinks.

    The lift or the stairs can be used to reach the villa’s top floor, the mansarda, which “seems like a completely other apartment because it’s much more modern,” Gennarelli says. “It’s like a penthouse.” Set with wood floors, the large living room is warmed by a circular glass fireplace. The attic space includes a large rectangular skylight and an ensuite bedroom.

    Ascending the final set of stairs, the rooftop terrace opens to that commanding view of Rome.

    The kitchen is located on the garden level and can be accessed through the villa’s garage. There’s additional covered parking on the grounds. The garden level also has a laundry, staff bedroom and an additional room, bathroom and game room set with a fireplace.

    Floors in the home are either white marble or parquet done in herringbone and checkerboard patterns. Doors are ornamented with inset molding. The overhung roofs of both villas are faced with terra-cotta tiles in a French style for the main villa and done in a barrel or Spanish style for the second villa.

    The L-shaped pool, surrounded by lemon and orange trees, is banked with white marble along its edge. It includes a pool house with exterior walls inset with Roman busts and matching Solomonic columns.

    An Italian garden with lampposts lining a cobblestone road stretches behind the villa. At dusk, the sylvan setting resembles a scene from a Bernardo Bertolucci film.

    A 1998 renovation included revamped electric and plumbing and upgrades to the roofs and pool as well as repairs and freshening of all finishings.

    According to Gennarelli, Aldo Gucci’s grandsons, the sellers, vacated the second villa about 10 years ago. With its separate garage and gated entrance, the secondary three-story home with four fireplaces and rear terraces can be sectioned into apartments and rented, used for offices or kept as a guesthouse. Its grounds include two outbuildings and a 750-square-foot greenhouse.

    “The second villa is in good shape but, generally, does need some work,” Gennarelli adds.

    About 32,291 square feet of parkland surrounds the second villa, and the main villa is bordered by 75,347 square feet of greenery.

    Absent permanent occupants during the past decade, the main villa and grounds have been maintained meticulously by a live-in housekeeper and gardener. The Gucci family has used the property to gather during holidays and other events.

    The villa’s Camilluccia neighborhood is quite walkable, Gennarelli says, with nearby restaurants, bars, shopping and schools. It’s about a 15-minute drive from the city’s historical center and a 4-mile drive from the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA), the ring road encircling Rome.

    The neighborhood has tight security given its numerous embassies, including the Netherlands embassy, which is next door. “The Ministry of Foreign Affairs is down the street, about a five-minute drive,” Gennarelli adds.

    Aldo Gucci had other homes, reportedly located in Beverly Hills, California; New York City; Palm Beach, Florida; Florence, Italy; London and Paris. But it was in 1938 along Rome’s Via dei Condotti where the “Michelangelo of Merchandising,” as he was termed, opened the family’s first shop outside of Florence. In 1952, the favored son opened a store in New York City, the first outside of Italy. United States President John F. Kennedy greeted him as the “first Italian ambassador of fashion.”

    Aldo Gucci is credited for creating the brand’s iconic interlocking “G” logo.

    The Gucci family ended its association with the brand in 1993, with its remaining interest sold to Investcorp. The Paris-based luxury group Kering (Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen, among others), now owns the fashion house.

    Valued at $22.6 billion, Gucci ranks 31 among the world’s most valuable brands.

    Chiara Gennarelli of Building Heritage is the listing agent, marking the first property in Rome under the Forbes Global Property brand.

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    R. Daniel Foster, Contributor

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  • Artemisia Gentileschi’s 1616 nude to be digitally unveiled

    Artemisia Gentileschi’s 1616 nude to be digitally unveiled

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    FLORENCE, Italy — Art restorers in the Italian city of Florence have begun a six-month project to clean and virtually “unveil” a long-censored nude painting by Artemisia Gentileschi, one of the most prominent women in the history of Italian art.

    Swirling veils and drapery were added to the “Allegory of Inclination” some 70 years after Gentileschi painted the life-size female nude, believed to be a self-portrait, in 1616.

    The work to reveal the image as originally painted comes as Gentileschi’s contribution to Italian Baroque art is getting renewed attention in the #MeToo era, both for her artistic achievements but also for breaking into the male-dominated art world after being raped by one of her art teachers.

    Her work was featured in a 2020 exhibit at the National Gallery in London.

    “Through her, we can talk about how important it is to restore artwork, how important it is to restore the stories of women to the forefront,’’ said Linda Falcone, coordinator of the Artemisia Up Close project.

    “Allegory of Inclination” originally was commissioned for the family home of Michelangelo Buonarroti the Younger, the great-nephew of the famed artist. The building later became the Casa Buonarotti museum, and the painting was displayed until recently on the ceiling in a gilded frame. When lead conservator Elizabeth Wick removed the painting in late September, a shower of 400-year-old dust was released.

    Wick’s team of restorers is using ultraviolet light, diagnostic imaging and X-rays to differentiate Gentileschi’s brush strokes from those of the artist that covered the nudity. The public can watch the project underway at the museum through April 23.

    Restorers won’t be able remove the veils because the cover-up was done too soon after the original, raising the risk that Gentileschi’s painting would be damaged in the process.

    Instead, the restoration team plans to create a digital image of the original version that will be displayed in an exhibition on the project opening in September 2023.

    Gentileschi arrived in Florence shortly after the trial in Rome of her rapist, during which the then-17-year-old was forced to testify with ropes tied around her fingers that were progressively tightened in a test of her honesty.

    She also had to endure a physical examination in the courtroom behind a curtain to confirm that she was no longer a virgin. Eventually, her rapist was convicted and sentenced to eight months in prison.

    “Somebody else would have been crushed by this experience,’’ Wick said. “But Artemisia bounces back. She comes up to Florence. She gets this wonderful commission to paint a full-length nude figure for the ceiling of Casa Buonarroti. So, I think she’s showing people, ‘This is what I can do.’”

    While in Florence, Gentileschi also won commissions from the Medici family. Her distinctive, dramatic and energetic style emerged, taking inspiration from the most renowned Baroque painter of the time, Caravaggio. Many of her paintings featured female heroines, often in violent scenes and often nude.

    She was 22 when she painted “Allegory of Inclination,” which was commissioned by Michelangelo Buonarroti the Younger. Another member of the family, Leonardo Buonarroti, decided to have it embellished to protect the sensibilities of his wife and children.

    “This is one of her first paintings. In the Florentine context, it was her debut painting, the same year she was then accepted into the Academy of Drawing, which was the first drawing academy in Europe at the time,” Falcone said.

    With the younger Michelangelo as her patron, Gentileschi gained entry to the cultural milieu of the time.

    “She was able to hobnob with Galileo and with other great thinkers. So this almost illiterate woman was suddenly at the university level, producing works of art that were then, you know, appreciated by the Grand Duke,” Falcone said. “And she became a courtly painter from then on.”

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