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  • Make a Simple Organic Fertilizer for Healthy Indoor Plants – Garden Therapy

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    Without access to all the goodness of outdoor soil, your indoor plants are going to need a good houseplant fertilizer to get their nutrients. 100% natural, this organic fertilizer recipe is one of the 80+ from my herbal garden recipe book, Garden Alchemy. It will keep your houseplants happy, healthy, and blooming for stunning indoor displays.

    Do houseplants need fertilizer? While outdoor plants source nutrients found in the soil and their ecosystem, houseplants don’t have the same luxury. Due to the closed system of soil they live in, houseplants are completely dependent on their human plant parents for available nutrients.

    There are times when it’s easier to use a liquid fertilizer than a granular one, such as when you are watering houseplants. In the summer, houseplants respond to warmth and light, and it stimulates their growth. Applying this liquid houseplant fertilizer will ensure they are getting all the nutrients they need for this growth period.

    Many homebrew liquid fertilizers have microorganisms that support healthy outdoor soil but are not great for indoor soil. Specifically crafted with houseplants in mind, this DIY fertilizer will help them thrive, bloom, and grow.

    There are lots of recipes in my book, Garden Alchemy, for the home gardener to apply organic methods in the home and out in the garden. Set up like a cookbook, you’ll find a ton more fertilizer recipes, as well as pest deterrents, potting mixes, and other projects and elixirs to boost your garden. This excerpt on organic fertilizer for houseplants was reprinted with permission by Cool Springs Press. Find the book in your country!

    This post will cover…

    indoor plant fertilizer in jar
    It can be much more economical (and satisfying) to create your own houseplant fertilizer blend.

    What is the Best Fertilizer for Indoor Plants?

    Organic vs Synthetic

    When it comes to choosing a fertilizer, first we must look at the key differences between organic and synthetic fertilizers. Organic fertilizers are derived from minerals, plants, and animal products, while synthetic fertilizers are synthesized chemicals of nutrients.

    Synthetic fertilizer molecules are made to be readily available to plants and, therefore, can be hard to regulate. It’s easy to over-apply synthetic fertilizer and cause plants to take up too much nutrition too quickly, causing fertilizer “burn.”

    Organic fertilizers are more forgiving because, often, they are not as readily available for plants. Natural organic fertilizers are broken down more slowly and, therefore, regulate the speed at which the nutrients are available, encouraging the plant to grow stable roots and expand the area in which they collect nutrients.

    Liquid vs Granular

    You can find synthetic and organic houseplant fertilizer in both liquid and granular form. Liquid fertilizer is the easiest to use, as you can add it to your watering can while watering the plants. It does need to be done more frequently than granular, but you are minimizing the potential for fertilizer burn.

    Granular fertilizer comes in either spikes or pellet forms. You either sprinkle or push the fertilizer into the soil, and the nutrients are slowly released. You can find natural and organic granular fertilizers by checking the ingredient list. If there is none, it is a synthetic fertilizer.

    My houseplant fertilizer recipe is an organic liquid formula. In my opinion, this is the best fertilizer for indoor plants and the one I use most regularly. It is easy to make and use and provides eco-friendly, natural growth enhancement.

    four jars of fertilizers in a row out in the garden
    The key to making your own houseplant fertilizer blend is ensuring there is enough variety in your blend of N-P-K, secondary nutrients, and micronutrients.

    When Should I Fertilize My Indoor Plants?

    Plants are good at letting you know when they need water or more sunlight but not so good at letting you know when they need fertilizer. Stagnant growth is often the biggest indicator and is not as glaringly obvious as a wilted or yellowing leaf.

    I primarily use my houseplant fertilizer during the summer. While plants have different needs, these fertilizing guidelines will apply to most houseplants. The plants may live inside, but they grow most in the summer. Since we want to encourage growth, this is the best time to apply fertilizer.

    Begin fertilizing in late spring or approximately 8 weeks before the season’s last frost. Start off with smaller doses of fertilizer and work your way up to full strength for the summer. Based on the plant, I use my liquid fertilizer for my indoor plants anywhere from once a week to once a month.

    It’s also a good practice to add a slow-release dry fertilizer at planting and again annually. I do this at the beginning of summer.

    When summer comes to a close, we want to ease up on fertilizing. Slowly stop fertilizing so that by the first frost, you are no longer adding fertilizer to your indoor plants. They will remain dormant for the winter and will not require any fertilizer.

    pothos plant sitting next to watering can
    Like the plants outdoors, indoor plants do most of the growing during the summer months.

    Should I Fertilize My Sick Plant?

    Fertilizers are necessary for indoor plants to thrive but do not solve all plant health issues. Some well-meaning plant parents over-fertilize plants because they think the plant has a nutrient deficiency.

    If you have a sick plant, there may be other reasons for their issues. Fertilizers simply enhance the nutrients, so it will only help if your plant is lacking nutrients. Specific nutrient deficiencies will show up as plant health indicators, such as disease, pests, dieback, and discoloration.

    Plants can be sick for many reasons. If you have healthy indoor soil, like this indoor soil mix from my soil recipes, then soil fertility is not likely to be the issue. If your plant has pests, yellowing leaves from over-watering, browning leaves from too much sun, or other indicators, fertilizer will not act as miracle medicine. Make sure you know what problem your plant faces before you start fertilizing it like crazy!

    dying pilea leaf
    Fertilizer won’t revive a dead plant unless the problem is not getting enough nutrients.

    How to Make Fertilizer

    Like any good recipe, it’s all about sourcing quality ingredients. These are my must-have ingredients for creating a fertilizer for indoor plants:

    Alfalfa Meal

    Alfalfa meal is a source of nitrogen and potassium, plus a broad spectrum of other minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and the growth hormone triacontanol. It helps to improve the soil structure and helps plants access nutrients.

    alfalfa fertilizer

    Blood Meal

    Blood meal is a by-product of cattle and hog farming that is very high in nitrogen and full of trace minerals. It comes in a dried powder form and can be included in certified organic soil mixes (although this doesn’t necessarily mean that the animal or farm was certified organic).

    Note: Alfalfa meal is a plant-based alternative to blood meal, so if you don’t want to use it, substitute with alfalfa meal.

    Rock Phosphate

    Rock phosphate is a slow-release mineralized source of phosphorous for amending soil. Most home gardens have adequate amounts of phosphorous in the soil and, therefore, are not needed. However, it helps fertilize plants in potting soil and encourages flowering in plants.

    Rock phosphate pile on white background
    Rock phosphate

    Kelp Meal

    Kelp meal has low levels of nitrogen and potassium but works as a soil amendment due to its multitude of readily available trace elements and over 60 naturally chelated minerals. This seaweed extract also improves soil structure, prevents nutrient leaching, and increases soil’s water-holding capacity.

    pile of kelp meal on white background
    Kelp meal

    Rainwater

    Tap water that comes from municipal sources is often treated with chlorine to remove and suppress microorganism growth. We want to encourage the growth of beneficial organisms as well as retain a plant’s herbal properties. If you don’t have a large enough supply of available rainwater, then allow water to sit in a wide-mouth bucket for 24 hours to allow the chlorine to evaporate or use boiled (then cooled) water.

    indoor plant fertilizer with hydrangea
    Avoid the use of chlorine in your organic houseplant fertilizer.

    Organic Fertilizer for Indoor Plants

    This DIY fertilizer only takes a few moments to make and will give you plenty of fertilizer to cover all your houseplants for a few months.

    Materials

    Make It!

    1. Measure the ingredients and add them to a glass bottle or jar with a lid. Stir well to combine and shake well before each use.
    2. Dilute the fertilizer by adding ½ cup (120 ml) of the liquid fertilizer blend into 4 cups (950 ml) of water in a watering can. Water houseplants with the diluted fertilizer mix monthly in spring and summer and discontinue use in fall and winter.
    3. Use the diluted fertilizer immediately. Store the prepared fertilizer in a cool, dark location for up to 3 months. Discard if the liquid shows signs of spoilage, such as discoloration, mold, or an unpleasant odor.
    bottle of homemade organic fertilizer for houseplants
    Store for up to three months. Discard if it shows signs of spoilage.

    If you’re interested in learning more fertilizer recipes, such as ones for outdoor plants or granular fertilizer blends, be sure to check out my book, Garden Alchemy. With over 80 organic gardening recipes, keep your indoor and outdoor plants thriving and natural.

    Organic Fertilizer FAQ

    Where can I find these ingredients? Do you have to buy them in bulk?

    Many of these ingredients will be available at garden centres or landscape supply stores. I’ve linked to them throughout the article for those I could find available online. It’s difficult to purchase these in small quantities, so getting them in bulk is your best option. They will last for years when stored properly, and you can make your own fertilizer more economically this way.

    How do you use coffee grounds for plants?

    People will add coffee grounds as a DIY source of nutrients to their plants. Coffee grounds are not a significant source of nutrients, though they contain phosphorous and magnesium. However, many people will add them directly to the soil when it should be composted first. So add your coffee grounds to your compost pile, then once composted, sterilize your compost and add it to your houseplants for a nutrient and soil boost.

    How do you know if your houseplants need fertilizer?

    If your houseplant isn’t pushing out any new growth or stopped flowering, it’s likely a fertilizer problem. They may also have weak stems or show lighter discolouration in the leaves.

    More Tips for Growing Houseplants

    Houseplant Fertilizer for Healthy Indoor Plants

    100% natural, this DIY houseplant fertilizer recipe will keep your houseplants happy, healthy, and blooming for stunning indoor displays.

    • Measuring spoons

    • Airtight jar

    • Measure the ingredients and add them to a glass bottle or jar with a lid. Stir well to combine and shake well before each use.

    • Dilute the fertilizer by adding ½cup (120 ml) or the liquid fertilizer blend into 4 cups (950 ml) of water in a watering can. Water houseplants with the diluted fertilizer mix monthly in spring and summer and discontinue use in fall and winter.

    • Use the diluted fertilizer immediately. The prepared fertilizer can be stored in a cool, dark location for up to 3 months. Discard if the liquid shows signs of spoilage such as discoloration, mold, or an unpleasant odor.

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • 6 Ways to Use Alfalfa in the Home and Garden – Garden Therapy

    6 Ways to Use Alfalfa in the Home and Garden – Garden Therapy

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    From boosting the garden to giving us fresh greens in the winter, people all over the world have been enjoying the many uses of alfalfa for centuries. This guide covers 6 of the ways I use the alfalfa plant in my life. Hopefully, you’ll see just how much you’ve been missing out on this incredibly versatile and beneficial plant!

    When you think of alfalfa, you probably think of it as a livestock crop. Or perhaps you just like saying the name…al-fal-fa!!

    What you might not know is that it’s actually quite a versatile herb. I use it for all sorts of things, from sandwich toppers to rose fertilizer to a hair booster.

    A flowering plant in the pea family, Medicago sativa is a highly prized crop all over the world. Often known as a major source of livestock feed, the alfalfa seeds, leaves, and sprouts have many uses all over the world.

    Here are some of the amazing uses for alfalfa both in the garden and out.

    homemade fertilizers and teahomemade fertilizers and tea
    Alfalfa meal tea is part of my regular fertilizer collection.

    Benefits of Alfalfa for Humans

    Packed full of medicinal and nutritional properties, there are many benefits to consuming alfalfa. Most notably, it is high in vitamin K with a single serving of the plant providing 13% of your daily allowance. It also has other nutrients including vitamin C, copper, manganese, and folate.

    Due to the high levels of saponin, a plant compound known for lowering cholesterol, it is good for doing just that and helps to lower your risk of heart disease, stroke, and diabetes.

    Alfalfa is also known for relieving menopause symptoms, improving metabolic health, and has antioxidant properties.

    These are just some of the alfalfa benefits, but this wondrous plant has many more uses. Let’s discuss some! Here are six ways to use alfalfa at home and in your garden!

    1. Enjoy Alfalfa Sprouts

    One of my favourite ways to enjoy alfalfa is by eating its crunchy little sprouts! A very popular sprouting option, the taste goes well with pretty much anything. They have a mild flavour that is sweeter and fresher when the sprouts are yellow. While mild in taste, they pack a ton of nutrients.

    Since the mature leaves taste bitter, the immature sprouts of the alfalfa plant will be much more enjoyable. They’re easy to grow right on your countertop and ready to eat in a matter of a few days. High in vitamin K and C and low in calories, they are a good source of fresh greens that you can grow year-round.

    I like to add my sprouts to sandwiches, salads, stir fry, soups, and smoothies. The flavour of a sprout mix and spice make them not shy in a dish and you will surely want to harvest more to eat right away.

    Another alternative for eating alfalfa sprouts is growing microgreens. Instead of sprouting in a jar or container, they are planted in a thin layer of soil instead. Whichever way you decide to grow them, you will get the same alfalfa benefits.

    Alfalfa sprouts are completely safe for humans to eat. Most sprouts can carry foodborne illnesses, but properly handling and growing will make your sprouts completely safe for consumption. Always buy safe, disinfected alfalfa seeds and make sure all equipment is sanitized when growing. Follow the guidelines and trust your nose to sniff out any bad sprouts.

    a bowl of alfalfa sproutsa bowl of alfalfa sprouts
    Alfalfa sprouts have a mild, sweet flavour when young.

    2. Make a Hair Booster

    Considered a superfood, the high levels of vitamins A, C, E, and K and the antioxidants in alfalfa have people searching for even more health benefits of this popular plant. If you have luscious hair in mind, you might want to consider the alfalfa spouts nutritional benefits.

    Nutrition and hair loss have been heavily linked. Whenever the body is not getting enough nutrients, it will prioritize the digestive and cardiovascular systems rather than hair and skin cells. Anytime you get all the vitamins and nutrients you need, you can expect to produce healthy hair.

    Alfalfa can be enjoyed as a supplement or capsule, or you can grow it yourself like me! People add it to their smoothies but you should note that alfalfa juice by itself is very strong tasting. It is best to dilute it with other drinks.

    healthy hair thanks to alfalfa sproutshealthy hair thanks to alfalfa sprouts
    Simply including alfalfa in your diet will help you get a hair boost.

    3. Use Alfalfa as Green Manure

    Green manure is a crop that is grown with the intention of improving soil quality. Most legumes are a popular choice and alfalfa plants work as excellent green manure. They can act as a cover crop during the winter to protect bare beds against the cold weather.

    Think of it as living mulch! Cover crops also reduce soil erosion and help to keep weeds in check.

    You plant the alfalfa in the fall and then dig up the plant and integrate it come spring to improve the soil.

    For a brand-new bed, you can also plant it in the spring and let it flourish for the season before you overturn it into the soil. The high levels of nitrogen, vitamins, and minerals will be a great boost for the soil.

    You can also You can also
    You can also cut back plant material and leave it to decompose in place.

    4. Grind Up a Compost Accelerator

    If you don’t feel like waiting for your compost to break down all on its own, alfalfa can help! Since the plant decomposes rapidly, it generates a fair amount of heat that helps to accelerate the compost.

    By grinding alfalfa and other dried herbs and adding them to your compost, you can have it broken down and ready in 4-6 weeks. It also helps to make your compost have even higher nutrient levels.

    Other great herbs to add to the compost pile include nettle, dandelion, chamomile, yarrow, valerian, and more.

    5. Whip up a Garden Fertilizer

    You may have seen alfalfa meal floating around at the garden centre. The meal is a source of nitrogen and potassium, plus a broad spectrum of other minerals, vitamins, amino acids, and the growth hormone triacontanol.

    When you use it as a fertilizer, it helps to improve the soil structure and plants’ ability to access nutrients.

    The NPK for alfalfa meal is 3-0-3. It is a good option for making your own plant-based fertilizer. Alternatively, you can combine 4 parts alfalfa meal with 1 part bone meal for a simple two-ingredient granular blend.

    alfalfa fertilizeralfalfa fertilizer
    Alfalfa meal.

    6. Make an Alfalfa Tea for Seedlings and Roses

    Since it has the growth hormone triacontanol, this alfalfa tea is a great fertilizer for seedlings when applied after they have developed their first two true leaves. The American Rose Society also sings its praises and recommends feeding homebrewed alfalfa tea to roses and perennials.

    This recipe comes straight from my book, Garden Alchemy. In it, you can learn even more about creating your own fertilizers, potting mixes, plant elixirs, pest deterrents, and more. Alfalfa tea is just scratching the surface of the 80 recipes included in the book!

    You can easily adjust the volume of this recipe for your garden needs. For a smaller amount to feed seedlings, add the ingredients to a large, glass Mason jar with a lid and infuse in a warm place in direct sunlight. For a larger amount to feed roses and perennials, add the ingredients to a 5-gallon bucket or large bin.

    alfalfa tea recipealfalfa tea recipe
    I make a quick batch of alfalfa tea in a Mason jar to feed to my seedlings.

    Materials

    To see exact measurements, view the recipe card at the end of this post.

    • Alfalfa meal
    • Rainwater or dechlorinated water

    Make It!

    Measure the ingredients and add them to the container of your choice. Stir well, cover with a lid, and set in the sun. For best results, brew for at least 36 hours, stirring at least twice a day.

    The brew is ready when the solid material settles at the bottom, and the liquid above is an orange colour. It should smell sweet and fresh, like hay.

    To apply, move the tea out of the sun to cool, and then stir the ingredients again. Pour the tea directly from the jar or bucket onto your plants, being careful not to displace soil and roots. Strain the mixture through a pillowcase if you prefer to add it to a watering can.

    how to use alfalfahow to use alfalfa
    Strain if you wish, but I just pour it all over the base of my plants.

    FAQ About Using Alfalfa

    Does alfalfa cleanse the body?

    There is little evidence that cleanses or detoxes are good for the body or that they actually remove any toxins. What I can say is that alfalfa will improve your body with many healthy nutrients and is known to improve metabolic health by lowering blood sugar. It’s also known to lower cholesterol.

    Who shouldn’t take alfalfa?

    Alfalfa is very safe for most people. However, pregnant people should avoid it, and those who take blood thinners or have an autoimmune disorder should be cautious about consuming too much. Consult your doctor before incorporating it into your diet.

    How much alfalfa should you add to the soil?

    I add ½ cup of alfalfa meal to 1 gallon of water. This is enough to feed all my seedlings or a few perennials.

    As you can see, this powerhouse plant deserves a spot in your garden! With just a little effort, you’ll be able to reap the many benefits of alfalfa.

    More Tips for Growing Plants

    Alfalfa Tea for Seedlings and Roses

    Filled with the growth hormone triacontanol, alfalfa tea is a completely natural and effective fertilizer perfect for seedlings, roses, and perennials.

    • ½ cup alfalfa meal
    • 1 gallon rainwater or dechlorinated water

    • Measure both ingredients and place them in a container. Stir well and cover it with a lid.

    • Let the mixture brew in the sun for a minimum of 36 hours. Stir the mixture at least twice each day.

    • The mixture is ready when the solids settle and the liquid on top is orange in colour.

    • Let mixture cool then stir and pour the tea directly onto your plants.

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Ethos Cannabis CEO Gibran Washington on Growth and Profitability – Cannabis Business Executive – Cannabis and Marijuana industry news

    Ethos Cannabis CEO Gibran Washington on Growth and Profitability – Cannabis Business Executive – Cannabis and Marijuana industry news

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    Ethos Cannabis CEO Gibran Washington on Growth and Profitability – Cannabis Business Executive – Cannabis and Marijuana industry news






























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    Tom Hymes

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  • Former DuPage County prosecutor accused of threatening state lawmakers on X

    Former DuPage County prosecutor accused of threatening state lawmakers on X

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    CHICAGO — A former DuPage County prosecutor accused of making threats against state lawmakers and the Illinois Attorney General over social media has been charged.

    30-year-old Samuel Cundari, who was an Assistant State’s Attorney in DuPage County, has been charged with transmitting in interstate commerce a threat to injure another person, according to the U.S. Attorney’s Office of the Central District of Illinois.

    Prosecutors say authorities were initially contacted by two Illinois State Representatives on March 17, after they were allegedly tagged in a threatening post on X, the platform formerly known as Twitter.

    The post allegedly stated “Our patience grows short with you. The day we put your kids’ feet first into a woodchipper so we can enjoy their last few screams is coming.”

    Five other people or groups were also allegedly tagged in the post, including the Illinois Attorney General, and as a result, the FBI began an investigation. 

    Prosecutors say a couple of days prior, on May 15, a tip came into the FBI’s National Threat Operations Center regarding another post on X that appeared to be in response to an advertisement about the Springfield PrideFest, which took place on May 18.

    Prosecutors say the post allegedly stated “I sure hope NOBODY leaves a pressure cooker filled with bail bearings, glass, and nails, filled with diesel fuel and fertilizer, with the over pressure safety valve disabled, near a natural gas line line [sic]. That would be VERY sad and VERY unfortunate.”

    According to prosecutors, authorities were able to trace back the two social media posts to Cundari.

    Cundari was subsequently arrested and charged. 

    If convicted, Cundari could face up to five years in prison, three years of supervised release and a possible fine of up to $250,000.

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    Gabriel Castillo

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  • Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

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    Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed. 

    In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall. 

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

    How does vermicomposting work?

    Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!

    During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?

    • Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil. 
    • Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil. 
    • The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants. 
    • Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
    • Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
    • The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Worm castings from vermicomposting

    What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?

    A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin. 

    No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed. 

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin

    When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to my garden beds?

    Vermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm Composting

    If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.

    Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?

    Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.

    That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.

    How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?

    Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
    • Bin (see options below).
    • Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
    • Kitchen scraps – Perfect worm food includes bananas, watermelon, pumpkin, strawberries, apples, and more. I keep them on the counter in this container until I add them to the bins.
    • Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. I get mine from Arizona Worm Farm. Look for a local supplier if possible. If you can’t find one you can get them online here. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.

    Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:

    The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds. They are available at Dollar Tree or Amazon.
    • Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
    • Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • 2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
    • I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
    • If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.

    Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.

    Place the bin in the holePlace the bin in the hole

    2. Place the bin in the hole.

    Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat.

    4. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms. Red wigglers are preferred. I get mine from Arizona Worm Farm. Look for a local supplier if possible. If you can’t find one you can get them online here.

    Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.

    5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.

    Cover the food scraps with a layer of Cover the food scraps with a layer of

    6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.

    Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well. Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place. When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms.

    10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.

    How to Become a Self-Sufficient GardenerHow to Become a Self-Sufficient Gardener

    How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?

    I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.

    You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.

    Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.

    Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.

    What do worms eat?

    Perfect worm food: Watermelon, bananas, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, strawberries, apples, beans, pears, carrots, cherries, grapes, peaches, spinach, cucumbers, cabbage, celery, mangoes, tomatoes, corn, cardboard, shredded paper and egg cartons.

    Feed worms in moderation: Bread, potatoes, pasta, rice and other starchy foods

    Avoid feeding worms: Citrus, meats, bones, eggs (crushed shells are ok), dairy products, processed foods, salty or greasy food, and pet waste.

    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Tips for feeding worms:

    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.

    Greens

    Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells

    Browns

    Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper

    • Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
    • Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process. 
    • Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies. 
    • Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating. 
    • The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
    • Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding. 
    In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.

    Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?

    Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.  

    The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.  

    The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.

    Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?

    Answer: The worms go through the beds, and some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.

    Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?

    Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has.  Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: How often do you add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?

    Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.

    Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?

    Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.

    Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?

    Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin. 

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?

    Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep. 

    Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins? 

    Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area more moist, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps. 

    Question: Will in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?

    Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move, they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?

    Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.

    Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100. The bed has good drainage, and a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?

    Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.

    Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?  

    Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Spreading worm castings around a raised bed garden.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?  

    Answer: Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Question: Are red wigglers native?

    Answer: Red Wigglers are not native to the US – No worm is- they were all killed off during the Ice Age. But, Reds are not considered invasive. Especially in Arizona. They stay where they are at and can’t live in our natural native soils.

    Question: Is cardboard toxic?

    In our world, it is hard to avoid all chemicals. Cardboard is the most heavily used packaging material, and feeding it to our plants and trees is the best way to make use of a very valuable resource. The benefits of feeding it to our worms (and then our plants) dramatically outweigh any other option. If it’s painted with colored ink from overseas, it is very remotely possible that it has toxic heavy metals. Almost all the inks used in the US (something like 99.3%) are made from soybean oil and are completely harmless. It is also possible (but not likely) that the adhesives include formaldehyde. But, Formaldehyde also occurs naturally in the soil. It is produced during the decay of plant material in levels considered safe.

    Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?  

    Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread). 

    Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?  

    Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started. 

    If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it:

    If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share itIf you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it
    If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share itIf you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it
    If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share itIf you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it

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    Angela Judd

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  • How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

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    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    The satisfaction you feel as you turn yard and kitchen waste into organic fertilizer that nourishes the soil, as well as your vegetables, plants, and flowers, is the reward for putting in the effort to learn how to compost. 

    However, the thought of learning how to compost can be intimidating. The first time I started composting, I was great at growing flies – but not compost. I did not know how to compost, and felt like composting wasn’t for me. It was too hard, too stinky, and there were too many bugs. Can you relate to any of those feelings? 

    Fast forward a couple of years. I decided to enroll in Master Gardener classes where two crucial things occurred:

    1. I learned the correct way to compost from a local composting expert.      
    2. Volunteering at the demonstration garden gave me hands-on experience learning how to compost.

    With this newfound knowledge and experience, I was ready to try again. I applied what I learned and put that knowledge to work, and guess what? I was successful and had fresh compost for my garden. Since that time, I’ve added hundreds of pounds of homemade fertilizer to my garden beds.  

    Disclaimer: This post may contain affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

    There are as many methods of composting as there are gardeners, but this is the method that works for me using the type of compost bin offered through my city for $5 each. This method can also be adapted to other types of bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    1. Choose a location to compost

    Here are a few necessities for the location:

    • Plenty of room – the bins I use are 3 feet wide and 2 ½ feet tall. Plan on room for at least 2 bins. Ideally, there is 3 to 4 feet clearance in front of the bins.
    • Access to water – wetting down the compost with a hose helps speed up the process, especially in dry climates like the low desert of Arizona.
    • Shade – prevents compost from drying out as quickly and it’s easier for you to work in. 
    • Wheelbarrow access – room to maneuver in and out is helpful.
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    2. Obtain compost bins

    The bins need to be around 3 feet wide and 2 to 3 feet deep (smaller bins won’t heat up as well), have lids, holes drilled in the sides for airflow, and bottomless. For the method I use, you need more than one bin. For smaller yards, 2 bins work fine. Larger yards could use 3, 4, or more bins.  

    Call your local city to see if they offer bins. This type of bin may also be found online on places like OfferUp and Craigslist. If you live in the City of Mesa (AZ), call 480-644-2221 to request a bin. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    3. Gather the correct tools for composting

    The right tools make composting much easier. I use the following tools: (click on the name to see the ones I use on Amazon).

    Soil Sifter
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    Gorilla Cart
    Scoop Shovel
    Compost Thermometer
    Pitchfork

    4. Learn what and what not to compost​

    Do Compost:  Don’t Compost: Compost with Care: 
    Leaves Meat / bones Bermuda grass clippings 
    Grass clippings Dairy Citrus peels (take a long time to break down)
    Coffee grounds Animal waste Ashes (adds alkalinity)
    Vegetable scraps Diseased plants  
    Egg shells Oil  
    Plant material Weeds with seeds    
    Fruit and peels    
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    Egg shells
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    Banana peels
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    Coffee grounds
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    Leaves
    Lawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot ClimatesLawn Alternatives: 10 Low-Water-Use Groundcovers for Hot Climates

    5. Understand the difference between green and brown materials

    What can I compost?What can I compost?
    What can I compost? What can I compost?
    Green Materials  Brown Materials 
    Nitrogen-rich, wet, colorful Carbon-rich, dry 
    Grass clippings Dry brown leaves
    Coffee and tea grounds Egg shells
    Green garden trimmings Hay and straw
    Fruit scraps, peels Shredded paper
    Vegetable scraps, peels Dryer lint
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    Green materials
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    Brown materials
    How to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a GardenHow to Kill Bermuda Grass Without Chemicals Before Planting a Garden
    How to Become a Self-Sufficient GardenerHow to Become a Self-Sufficient Gardener

    6. Fill the bins

    Place alternating layers of green and brown material. Aim for 3 parts brown material for every 1 part of green material. When using food waste, make sure it is buried under a layer of browns to avoid problems with flies. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Mist the layers with water as you add them to assure that the pile is adequately moist. It should have the consistency of a wrung-out sponge.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    7. Observe the compost​

    As decomposition starts, the pile begins to heat up. This is where the thermometer comes in handy. As long as your compost is nice and hot (110℉ – 160℉), you don’t need to do much. Once it cools (below 100℉), go to the next step. 

    See troubleshooting tips (below) if you aren’t sure what is happening inside the bins.

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    8. Rotate the compost through your bins​

    Cooled-down compost that isn’t broken down completely needs to have air and water added back into it to heat it back up. 

    Use the pitchfork and shovel to move the green and brown materials from the cooled bin into an empty bin, re-moistening as you go. Break up any clumps of grass or leaves. No empty bin? Use the pitchfork to turn the material inside the bin, wetting it as you work. 

    Once all material is rotated through, watch the pile – it should begin to heat back up (110℉ – 160℉) within a day or so. When the temperatures drop back down again (below 100℉), repeat this step. Once the compost has an earthy odor and is dark brown and crumbly, the process is complete. 

    This step is why having more than one bin is so important. Ideally, the compost rotates through the bins and then is complete. After moving the material out of a bin, refill it with new green and brown materials to begin the process again. Keep moving the materials through the bins, leaving one bin open to rotate the compost into. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    9. Use the compost​

    Spring Gardening in ArizonaSpring Gardening in Arizona

    Success! A full bin of completed compost is gold for your garden. Use the shovel, pails, and wheelbarrow to scoop the completed compost and add it to your garden beds.

    If desired, use a soil sifter like this one from Amazon to remove any large pieces from your completed compost. Toss the large pieces back into the compost pile to finish breaking down.

    10. Be patient with yourself as you learn how to compost​

    The tricky part of learning how to compost is that at any given time, you will be doing several of these steps with different bins.

    Be patient with yourself and pay attention to what is going on in each bin. Learn from your mistakes and build on your successes. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Troubleshooting Tips

    Symptom  Problem Solution
    Many flies  Green items or food exposed to air  Cover pile with brown materials.
    Wet compost – not heating up Add more brown material  Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials. Do not wet down between layers. 
    Dry compost – not heating up Materials may be too large, needs more green Transfer to a new bin and layer in more green materials. Wet down between layers. Cut down larger items if necessary.
    Bad odor like rotten eggs Materials too wet, not enough oxygen, or too compacted Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Bad odor like ammonia Not enough brown materials Transfer to a new bin and layer in more brown materials.
    Compost heats up and then cools down Compost needs turned Transfer to a new bin, moistening layers as you go. 
    Warm only in the middle Compost pile too small Aim for the compost pile to be 3 feet wide and 2 ½ to 3 feet deep.
    Matted layers of leaves or grass Material won’t break down, will become slimy Avoid thick layers – break up layers with pitchfork and remix the pile adding in brown materials.
    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    If you enjoyed this post about how to compost, please share it:

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    How to Compost: 10 Simple StepsHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps

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  • Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

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    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed. 

    In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall. 

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

    How does vermicomposting work?

    Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!

    During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?

    • Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil. 
    • Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil. 
    • The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants. 
    • Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
    • Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
    • The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Worm castings from vermicomposting

    What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?

    A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin. 

    No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed. 

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin

    When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?

    Vermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm Composting

    If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.

    When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).

    Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?

    Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.

    That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.

    How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?

    Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
    • Bin (see options below).
    • Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
    • Kitchen scraps.
    • Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.

    Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:

    The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.
    • Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
    • Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • 2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
    • I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
    • If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.

    Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.

    Place the bin in the holePlace the bin in the hole

    2. Place the bin in the hole.

    Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat.
    Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.

    5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.

    Cover the food scraps with a layer of Cover the food scraps with a layer of

    6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.

    Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well. Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place. When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms.

    10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.

    How to Become a Self-Sufficient GardenerHow to Become a Self-Sufficient Gardener

    How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?

    I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.

    You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.

    Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.

    Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.

    What do worms eat?

    Good for feeding worms Avoid feeding worms
    Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper Dairy, oily food, spicy food, meat, citrus, salty foods, alcohol, glossy paper
    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Tips for feeding worms:

    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.

    Greens

    Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells

    Browns

    Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper

    • Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
    • Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process. 
    • Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies. 
    • Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating. 
    • The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
    • Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding. 
    In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.

    Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?

    Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.  

    The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.  

    The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.

    Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?

    Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.

    Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?

    Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has.  Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?

    Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.

    Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?

    Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.

    Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?

    Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin. 

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?

    Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep. 

    Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins? 

    Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps. 

    Question: WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?

    Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?

    Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.

    Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?

    Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.

    Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?  

    Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Spreading worm castings around a raised bed garden.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?  

    Answer: Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?  

    Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread). 

    Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?  

    Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started. 

    If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it:

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  • Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

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    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed. 

    In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall. 

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

    How does vermicomposting work?

    Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!

    During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?

    • Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil. 
    • Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil. 
    • The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants. 
    • Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
    • Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
    • The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Worm castings from vermicomposting

    What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?

    A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin. 

    No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed. 

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin

    When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?

    Vermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm Composting

    If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.

    When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).

    Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?

    Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.

    That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.

    How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?

    Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
    • Bin (see options below).
    • Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
    • Kitchen scraps.
    • Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.

    Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:

    The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.
    • Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
    • Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • 2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
    • I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
    • If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.

    Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.

    Place the bin in the holePlace the bin in the hole

    2. Place the bin in the hole.

    Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat.
    Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.

    5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.

    Cover the food scraps with a layer of Cover the food scraps with a layer of

    6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.

    Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well. Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place. When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms.

    10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.

    How to Become a Self-Sufficient GardenerHow to Become a Self-Sufficient Gardener

    How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?

    I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.

    You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.

    Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.

    Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.

    What do worms eat?

    Good for feeding worms Avoid feeding worms
    Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper Dairy, oily food, spicy food, meat, citrus, salty foods, alcohol, glossy paper
    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Tips for feeding worms:

    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.

    Greens

    Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells

    Browns

    Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper

    • Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
    • Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process. 
    • Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies. 
    • Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating. 
    • The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
    • Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding. 
    In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.

    Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?

    Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.  

    The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.  

    The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.

    Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?

    Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.

    Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?

    Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has.  Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?

    Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.

    Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?

    Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.

    Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?

    Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin. 

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?

    Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep. 

    Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins? 

    Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps. 

    Question: WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?

    Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?

    Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.

    Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?

    Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.

    Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?  

    Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Spreading worm castings around a raised bed garden.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?  

    Answer: Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?  

    Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread). 

    Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?  

    Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started. 

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    Angela Judd

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  • Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

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    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    Worm composting directly in the garden bed simplifies the process of vermicomposting. When you use in-bed vermicomposting bins, the worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed right where they are needed. 

    In-bed vermicomposting solves the problem of what to do with the worms during extremes of hot and cold. For example, vermicomposting in hot weather places (like the low desert of Arizona) is difficult unless you bring the worms inside during the summer months. With in-bed vermicomposting, the worms simply burrow deeper in the beds during the heat of an Arizona summer and then emerge again in the fall. 

    Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.

    How does vermicomposting work?

    Worm composting – also called vermicomposting (‘vermi’ = worm) – is the process of using worms for composting food scraps into vermicompost. Worms eat up to half their weight daily in kitchen scraps, and worm castings are the byproduct of all that eating. Worm castings = GARDEN GOLD!

    During digestion, the worms secrete chemicals that break organic matter into nutrition readily available for plants. Worm castings and the chemicals secreted during digestion make up vermicompost.

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    What are the benefits of worm composting (vermicomposting)?

    • Vermicompost improves soil texture and structure and aerates the soil. 
    • Vermicompost increases the water-holding capacity of soil. 
    • The nutrients in vermicompost are immediately available to plants. 
    • Worm castings contribute to faster plant growth and higher production.
    • Worm castings are dense in microorganisms and nutrients.
    • The chemicals in worm castings help prevent “damping off” and other diseases.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Worm castings from vermicomposting

    What is the easiest way to make and maintain a vermicomposting (worm composting) bin?

    A vermicomposting bin built into your raised beds, containers, or in-ground garden bed is the easiest way to make a worm composting bin. 

    No need to harvest the worm castings or move the worms inside for extremes of hot and cold temperatures. The worms live, work, reproduce, and make worm castings in the garden bed, right where they are needed. 

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Adding worms to an in-bed worm composting bin

    When should I add in-bed vermicomposting bins to by garden beds?

    Vermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy_ In-Bed Worm Composting

    If you live in a hot summer climate, do not add worms during the hottest months of the year. In the low desert of Arizona, the best time to add in-bed vermicomposting bins to your garden is from mid-September through May.

    When adding worms to your beds, nighttime temperatures should be in the 70’s (°F) (21-26°C).

    Which type of worms should I use for in-bed vermicomposting?

    Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of the hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level.

    That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you buy nightcrawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Purchasing red wiggler worms locally is the best choice. I get my worms from Arizona Worm Farm here in Phoenix. You can also buy them online.

    How do I make an in-bed vermicomposter (worm composter)?

    Supplies needed for in-bed vermicomposting:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    The 24-sheet shredder I use to shred cardboard for my vermicomposting bins
    • Bin (see options below).
    • Shredded cardboard – This shredder from Amazon will shred cardboard boxes (remove tape and labels first).
    • Kitchen scraps.
    • Worms – Red wigglers are preferred. The earthworms typically found in the garden aren’t suitable for vermicomposting.

    Bin options for in-bed vermicomposting:

    The bin helps designate a place in your garden for the worms to go. Choose one slightly smaller than the depth of your garden bed. There are several options:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • A wire garbage can with wide openings is the simplest way to add bins to your beds.
    • Lifting the bin out of the bed is simple when it’s time to collect the finished worm castings.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • Shape hardware cloth into a cylinder slightly shorter than the depth of your garden bed.
    • Wire the ends of the hardware cloth together.
    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting
    • 2-gallon bucket (with the bottom removed and holes drilled in the sides)
    • I used this drill bit (for drilling holes) and a Dremel (to cut off the bottom of the bucket).
    • If you use this type of vermicomposting bin, it is STRONGLY RECOMMENDED to remove the bottom of the bucket.

    Directions for installing and using an in-bed vermicomposting bin:

    Vermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm CompostingVermicomposting Made Easy: In-Bed Worm Composting

    1. Dig a hole in the garden bed the bin size.

    Place the bin in the holePlace the bin in the hole

    2. Place the bin in the hole.

    Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    3. Fill the habitat with shredded cardboard, and wet it down. Allow cardboard to absorb moisture overnight.

    Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat. Add 300-600 red wiggler worms to the worm habitat.
    Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.Begin feeding worms - see worm feeding details below.

    5. Begin feeding worms – see worm feeding details below.

    Cover the food scraps with a layer of Cover the food scraps with a layer of

    6. Cover the food scraps with a layer of “brown” materials. Examples: wood chips, dried leaves, soil, and shredded cardboard.

    Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well. Cover the worm habitat. I use a tile. They are very inexpensive and the right size for my habitat. You could also use a piece of wood. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    7. Cover the worm habitat. Use a thick layer of wood chips. You could also use a piece of wood or a tile. If you are using a bucket, the bucket lid works well.

    Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with brown). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    8. Check back occasionally and add more food scraps. (Always top with browns). Remove any large pieces of uneaten food.

    When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place. When food scraps are gone and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and be in the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    9. When food scraps are gone, and the bucket is empty, you can harvest the castings. (The worms will leave the bucket and migrate to other areas of the bed). Spread the castings around the garden bed. You can also leave the castings in place.

    Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and brown. No need to add additional worms.

    10. Begin the process over again, starting with fresh shredded cardboard, food scraps, and browns—no need to add additional worms.

    How to Become a Self-Sufficient GardenerHow to Become a Self-Sufficient Gardener

    How many in-bed vermicomposting bins should you have?

    I have one worm habitat in each bed. One habitat per bed is enough to get a continuous flow of microbes.

    You can add as many bins as you need to process your food scraps and waste, but you don’t need a high density of worms for a successful garden.

    Add at least 300 worms for each habitat. 600-800 is better, if possible.

    Worms multiply to fit the space and available food. In a big garden, worms will breed faster.

    What do worms eat?

    Good for feeding worms Avoid feeding worms
    Coffee grounds, grains, tea bags, vegetables, fruit, eggshells, paper Dairy, oily food, spicy food, meat, citrus, salty foods, alcohol, glossy paper
    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Tips for feeding worms:

    Tips for feeding worms in vermicomposting binsTips for feeding worms in vermicomposting bins

    Add equal amounts of greens and browns each time you feed.

    Greens

    Fruit scraps, vegetable scraps, bread & pasta (small amounts), coffee grounds, crushed eggshells

    Browns

    Cardboard, mulch, dry leaves, shredded paper

    • Make sure worms have eaten previously added food scraps before adding more. Plan on feeding worms about once per week.
    • Cut or blend food before adding to bins. Smaller pieces of food break down faster and speed up the composting process. 
    • Cover with browns after adding food scraps (greens) to avoid attracting fruit flies. 
    • Remove large pieces of uneaten food. Pay attention to what the worms are eating and not eating. 
    • The bin’s interior should have the moisture consistency of a wrung-out sponge (damp but not overly wet). Spray lightly with a hose if necessary.
    • Cover with a thick layer of wood chips, or replace the lid on the bucket after feeding. 
    In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.In-bed vermicomposting bins built into your garden simplifies worm composting. The worms live & make worm castings right in the garden beds.

    Frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: I have a ton of black soldier fly larvae in both of my bins. Will they be detrimental to my red wigglers?

    Answer: Black soldier flies are unusual in the Phoenix metro area because it is so dry here. They won’t hurt the worms, and within two or three weeks, they pupate into harmless flies (the live fly has no mouth – the only stage of the insect that eats is the larvae) that die within a day or two.  

    The larvae are voracious eaters, so someone who finds them in the bin should feed much more than normal. If they put buckets or bins in the ground like your setup, they may observe fewer worms in their bucket or bin as the worms will move away from the heat the larvae produce.  

    The worms are fine and will return when the larvae leave. The larvae don’t bite – if someone wanted to remove them (easiest is with a kitchen strainer) and toss them, that is a fine option too.

    Question: I dug into two of the buckets to see how my worms were doing, and they were missing. Not a worm to be found in either bucket. Would you expect the worms to stay in that bucket full of compost, or have they perhaps left their original home and crawled around through the rest of my garden, maybe just coming back to the bucket for their meals?

    Answer: The worms go throughout the beds, and then some are in the buckets with the scraps. I’m guessing with the intense heat we are having, they are burrowing down as deep as they can go.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Adding fresh shredded cardboard after emptying the bucket of the worm castings. The worms will return to the bins.

    Question: I have two guinea pigs, and feed them alfalfa hay, organic alfalfa pellets, and leafy greens such as romaine lettuce, spinach, swiss chard, and parsley. They produce a lot of waste (approximately 1 quart of waste hay and pellets daily). I read that I can add their waste and their waste hay directly to my raised bed gardens, which I have been doing and have been digging it in with a hand spade. Will red wiggler worms compost the guinea pig waste and waste hay?

    Answer: Red wigglers will eat guinea pig manure as it decomposes – and they will not eat anything that they don’t like until it decomposes enough for them to eat. A pound of worms will eat about a pound of waste a week. You will likely produce a lot more than that, but that’s not harmful either. The worms will eat what they want, and the rest will feed your beds as it has.  Your current process will probably produce good results – the worms will improve it.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Full bin of food and castings. Let the worms complete the food before harvesting the castings.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: How often do you have to add water to the compost buckets in Arizona heat?

    Answer: The beds get watered 2-3 times a week during the summer and about once a week in the winter. The buckets are in the middle of one of the watering grids in my beds, and get watered as well.

    Question: Can you add chicken poop to the buckets?

    Answer: You can, in small amounts. Too much will overwhelm the worms. Just mix the poop with bedding (anything that was a tree…leaves or shredded cardboard or mulch) and they will do great.

    Question: Do the finished castings seep into the garden through the holes in the bucket or does it need to be scooped out?

    Answer: Both. It is carried out of the bed by the worms movement. When the worms have completed the food scraps you can also scoop the castings out and spread them around the bed. You then begin the process again, adding fresh cardboard and food scraps. The worms will come back into the bin. 

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Red wiggler worms are perfect for in-bed worm composting.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: How do the in-bed vermicomposting worms do during the summer? Is there anything special you do to keep them cool during Arizona summers so they don’t die?

    Answer: They burrow down into the beds and look for cool spots to stay cool. In-bed worm composting in Arizona is a great option for our hot summers. Beds should be at least 12 inches deep. 

    Question: Do you ever have problems with ants attacking the worms in the in-bed vermicomposting bins? 

    Answer: Ants don’t generally attack worms. By making the area a little moister, you can discourage ants and make the habitat better for the worms. You can use these ant bait traps. 

    Question: WIll in-bed vermicomposting work in containers?

    Answer: Generally, it will work fine. The challenge with worms in pots for most people is that they tend to let plants get root bound and there is less soil than the worms like. As long as you have organic material and space for them to move they will do great. You don’t need to bury a bin in the container. You can do the same thing if you just dig out a hole and put a lid on the hole.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: Can worms eat bokashi compost?

    Answer: Absolutely. Done right, bokashi produces lots of microbes and breaks down waste to make it easier for the worms to consume.

    Question: My bed is raised completely off the ground, due to the previous owner PLANTING Bermuda grass (sigh). I’ve been reading that these sorts of beds are not a good home for worms since they may get too hot or drown. We are in Arkansas, so it doesn’t typically get above 100, the bed has good drainage, and has a soil depth of about 10″. Do you think worms would be OK to add or no?

    Answer: We never worry about drowning worms. They will find dry places to hang out. If she can grow vegetables, the worms will be fine. Fully-raised beds (off the ground) do tend to get hot. She should shade it in the summer, but they will probably be fine. The worst thing that might happen is they die over the summer and she has to add more in September when they start getting cooler nights.

    Question: Will chemical fertilizers hurt the worms?  

    Answer: In small amounts, probably not, but direct contact or a large amount could. The whole idea of worms is to let them convert organic materials into a natural source of nitrogen. The worms should reduce or eliminate the need for inorganic fertilizers. Chemical fertilizers such as inorganic nitrate salt will reduce the pH, but they also kill some of the microbes we like.

    in-bed vermicompostingin-bed vermicomposting
    Spreading worm castings around a raised bed garden.

    More frequently asked questions about in-bed vermicomposting:

    Question: Can I use earthworms or do I need to use red wrigglers for in-bed vermicomposting?  

    Answer: Red wigglers are composting worms that hang out in the top six inches of your garden. “Earthworms” is a generic term for one of hundreds of varieties of worms. If you dig them from the garden, they won’t stay in the compost level. That’s not bad, but they won’t hang out in the habitat we set up. Most bait worms need cooler temperatures than Arizona summers. If you are buying night crawlers, you will probably lose them in June or July. We want all worms. Red wigglers will stay and live better, but no worm is bad.

    Question: Can I feed my vermicomposting worms bread?  

    Answer: Yes. Grain-based items are fine (i.e., crackers, cooked rice, pizza crust, and bread). 

    Question: What do I do about cockroaches in my bins?  

    Answer: Cockroaches can be hard to eliminate completely, but the best bet is to aggressively cover the food waste with browns. Adding at least an inch of browns on top will help. 

    How to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting SuccessHow to Compost: 10 Simple Steps for Composting Success

    Want more information about composting? This article shares 10 simple steps to get you started. 

    If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it:

    If you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share itIf you enjoyed this post about in-bed vermicomposting, please share it
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    Pamela Fair

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  • Novaphos Announces Appointment of Evgeny Fedoseev as Chief Operating Officer

    Novaphos Announces Appointment of Evgeny Fedoseev as Chief Operating Officer

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    Globally Recognized Production and Management Leader and ‘Russia-2022’ Immigrant to Drive Revenue and Operational Efficiency for a New Era of Sustainable Phosphate Production


    FORT MEADE, Fla., October 4, 2023 (Newswire.com)
    –
    Novaphos announced today the appointment of Evgeny Fedoseev as its Chief Operating Officer. Fedoseev will lead the commercialization of the Company’s proprietary technological advances that produce sustainable phosphoric acid. For over 20 years in the chemical industry, Fedoseev served as an internationally recognized operations leader who guided fertilizer production in Belgium, China, Kazakhstan, Lithuania, and Russia. He holds a Master of Science, a Ph.D. in Chemical Engineering, and an EMBA degree. Most recently, he and his family finalized a two-year journey to immigrate from Russia, which began after the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine. Prior to the Novaphos appointment, Fedoseev served as Chief Operating Officer for the fertilizer division at EuroChem Group, a large Switzerland-based international agrochemical company vertically integrated from mining to the production and distribution of fertilizers. Fedoseev will report to Novaphos Chief Executive Officer Timothy Cotton.

    “Over the last 10 years, Novaphos has invested in and developed a new, modern, low-waste, low-cost process to produce high-quality phosphoric acid,” stated Timothy Cotton, Novaphos’ Chief Executive Officer. “Our unique approach, patents, and technology are a true game-changer and industry disrupter. Most importantly, Novaphos will ultimately ensure that one of the most valuable resources on the planet remains available and can be produced sustainably. Evgeny’s years of institutional experience and knowledge will be crucial to Novaphos as we scale our unique systems and processing to serve a variety of crucial phosphate-specific industries. His decision to leave Russia is truly inspiring, and we are thrilled he and his family were willing to move to Florida to lead our operations. His appointment shows Novaphos is ready to enter a new stage of operations and production, and no one gives me or our team more confidence during this important moment for the Company.”

    “Novaphos is bringing innovative technology to a conventional market that has seen little technical change, and I am so proud to be a part of this Company,” stated Evgeny Fedoseev. “As a form of protest, my family and I left our home due to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022. While it has been a long journey, with many challenges and personal stories to share, we are thrilled to finally come to the United States and help revolutionize the phosphate industry. Novaphos has clearly developed a technology that will serve as one of the most significant advances in decades for the phosphate industry. I am very excited to join the team, contribute my expertise and passion to the continued growth and success of the Company, and will never forget the support the Novaphos team has provided me and my family over the last few months.”

    In his newly created role at Novaphos, Fedoseev’s mandate will focus on maintaining product quality, overseeing company operations, and ensuring industrial assets’ safety, reliability, and efficiency. He brings to Novaphos deep experience in engineering and managing the construction, modernization and operation of plants that have produced compounds such as ammonia, methanol, phosphoric acid, and their derived products. In addition, as the head of the fertilizer manufacturing units at EuroChem Group, he directed the integration of existing and newly created business divisions into a unified operational system. In June, Fedoseev received immigration approval and a work permit from the United States.

    ABOUT NOVAPHOS

    Novaphos Inc. is a privately owned company that has developed proprietary processes for use in the phosphate industry. Novaphos technology allows phosphate producers to use low-quality phosphate rock to make high-quality phosphoric acid for use in agriculture and industry without producing any phosphogypsum wastes, representing the most significant technology development in decades for the global phosphate industry. The process is scalable, energy-efficient, and produces a useful construction aggregate byproduct — J-Rox™ — instead of phosphogypsum. For more information, go to www.novaphos.com.

    Source: Novaphos

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