Tag: fall garden

My Fall Bulb Master Guide (for Spring Blooming Flowers) – Garden Therapy

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You get a tulip, you get a hyacinth, you get a crocus! Yes, folks, fall bulb planting season is upon us. It’s singlehandedly one of the best things you can do this time of year for your future self. Plant fall bulbs now, and they’ll be one of the first blooms to welcome you next spring.

While others may be mourning the loss of summer, I’m over here buzzing about it being fall bulb season. Come September, the displays are full of tons of brilliant bulbs you can plant now for the spring.

One minute I’m shopping for garlic, the next thing you know, I’m leaving with $100 worth of flower bulbs to plant that weekend.

Fall bulbs and spring flowering bulbs are the same thing. One refers to when you plant it, and the other to when they flower.

It can be hard to think about next season’s garden when you’re still enjoying the last of this year’s harvest and blooms, but just a little work now will bring you so much joy next winter.

I’ve got plenty to say about fall bulbs, so let me dive in with all my planting tips. And make sure you read to the end for a can’t miss fall bulb giveaway!

Sponsored Content: A huge thank you to Flowerbulb.eu for sponsoring this post and providing many beautiful photos. Flowerbulb.eu is an invaluable resource for planting fall bulbs and has information on all kinds of unique bulbs you can grow for this spring. Be sure to check them out for more information and tips on growing everything bulbs.

Fall bulbs can create an epic display in the spring. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

What is a Flower Bulb?

We refer to most as “bulbs,” but some are also corms and tubers. For instance, crocus grow from corms while summer favourites like dahlias and begonias grow from tubers. Their appearance varies slightly, but for the sake of the article, I’ll refer to everything as a bulb! The care is fairly similar for each.

Bulbs are special in that they hold all the food the flower needs to thrive. If you’ve ever seen a package with bulbs already sprouting, that’s why,

Some bulbs are designed for annual planting, others for perennial or naturalizing. Annuals often are bred to be very showy, either in size or colour. Because of how much work it takes for the bulb to produce such a flower, it often won’t bloom again.

Perennials are bred for multiple-year flowering. They can remain in the ground all year round, becoming part of your garden bed plantings.

Naturalized bulbs are meant to multiply and spread. They can work in mass on their own or be part of a bed with other plants. They also work wonderfully in lawns.

Tulip bulbs are a “true bulb”

When Should I Plant Fall Bulbs?

When you should plant fall bulbs will vary greatly depending on where you live. They must be planted in the fall and before the first hard frost. This gives the bulb a chance to develop some root systems and settle in before winter.

This can be anywhere from September to December, depending on your climate. When in doubt, the package will tell you everything you need to know about when and how to plant the particular bulb.

Ideally, you want to plant them shortly after bringing them home. Most online retailers won’t ship the bulbs to you until they’re ready to plant in your hardiness zone. In the store, they’ll have them a little earlier. You can store them for a little while if necessary, keeping the bulbs between 10°-15°C.

For individual plantings, I use an auger drill attachment to help speed things up.

How to Plant Fall Bulbs

Again, the instructions will vary depending on the bulb you’re growing. Each bulb should be planted at different depths, and the sun and water conditions may vary slightly. My instructions below are a good rule of thumb for all bulbs, corms, and tubers.

Good drainage is a universal rule to follow. Bulbs will rot if sitting in any kind of water, so avoid any wet sections in your garden.

Most bulbs thrive in full or partial sun. Since these bulbs bloom in spring, they might enjoy more sunlight than you may think because the trees and shrubs haven’t leafed out yet.

When planting, you can plant them individually or in mass by digging trenches. Typically, smaller plants, like crocus, do well in mass while larger bulbs, such as alliums, work best with individual plantings. I like to work in compost to help improve drainage.

Generally, larger bulbs (2+ inches across) should be planted 6-8 inches deep, and smaller bulbs (1 inch or less) are planted 3-4 inches deep. Depth can change depending on your climate. For our mild winters, that depth is plenty in my garden. It’s best to refer to the package for the exact planting range. Warmer climates can handle the shallowest depth, where colder climates will want to use the maximum of the range.

Plant the bulbs with the pointy side facing up. Place, don’t push the bulb in. Cover with soil and then water generously if the soil isn’t already wet or you’re planting in dry conditions. Add a layer of mulch to help insulate the soil and stop it from drying out.

Bulbs should be planted “pointy” side up. These bulbs need to be set correctly before covering with soil.

Caring for Fall Bulbs

Once they’ve been planted, there’s very little work that needs to go into caring for your fall bulbs. They’ll be fine in the winter, sheltered under the cover of snow until they’re ready to emerge in the spring.

Many bulbs will actually naturalize or be perennials in the garden, returning year after year to bring you spring joy. Some bulbs, such as tulips and hyacinths, will bloom abundantly in their first couple of years and slowly taper off.

In the spring, you can snip faded flowers, but it’s important you leave the foliage until it turns completely yellow. The bulbs need time to charge and gather nutrients through the foliage to return the following year.

Crocus blooming amongst sedum.

Planting Bulbs in Pots

Yes, fall bulbs can also be planted in pots! This is a great option for those with a small space or who want to decorate their patio or balcony. I make a container every fall for my front door, and it’s always such a delight come springtime.

For successful bulb containers, you have to make sure the pot is deep enough and has good drainage. Use fresh soil when planting.

You can see exactly how I layer my bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, and crocus. The top layer will bloom first while the ones below make their way up the soil.

In containers, you can pack the bulbs closer than you would in a garden bed. I also like to top mine off with fall annuals, so it looks good in the fall while the bulbs are resting.

You may need to water your containers periodically, especially if they’re under protection from the outside.

Here’s a sample of combining bulbs in containers. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

Fall Bulb Grow Guides

I’ve written extensively about fall bulbs, including these dedicated guides for some of the most popular bulbs. Check them out for specific growing tips and tricks!

Tulips

Did you know that some tulips are perennials while others are annuals? You want to ensure you know which ones you’re buying to curb your expectations. I recently had the joy of planting over 250 tulip bulbs to grow as cutting flowers. Read these tips for growing tulips for a cutting garden.

Due to their popularity, there is an incredible variety of shapes and colours for tulip flowers.

Daffodils

Confession: I used to dislike daffodils. The bright yellow heads were always a little too much for me. But then I learned about the sheer number of daffodil varieties, and how versatile they can be.

Here’s how to grow daffodils!

Narcissus ‘Kiwi-Sunset.’ Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

Alliums

Alliums have long been one of my spring favourites, particularly the giant balls known as Globmaster alliums. As part of the onion family, you can truly grow some wacky and wonderful alliums.

Check out some of the allium var i eties.

A. giganteum ‘Globemaster.’ Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

Crocus

The true herald of spring is not the robin, but the crocus flowers. I often see these flowers blooming even when there is snow or frost still on the ground. They’re great for mass plantings in garden beds and are a go-to for bulb lawns and naturalizing.

Plant and grow crocus with the help of my guide.

Can you spot the bee paying a visit?

Specialty Bulbs

Everyone knows tulips and daffodils, but not everyone is as familiar with other fun fall bulbs, such as the checkered lily or Dutch iris. Here are 12 extraordinary fall bulbs to consider planting.

Checkered Lily (Fritillaria meleagris). Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

Naturalizing Bulbs

Naturalizing is a gardener’s dream. This is when the bulbs produce more bulbs on their own, naturally multiplying their numbers each subsequent year. I’ve done tons of work naturalizing bulbs in my front lawn. You can find all my tips for naturalizing garden beds and lawns here!

A mix of crocus and short tulips for naturalizing. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

Fall Bulb FAQ

Can I plant flower bulbs among trees, shrubs, and perennials?

Yes, and it’s a great way to bring some beauty before the perennials leaf out and everything else isn’t blooming yet. It can be difficult to plant in these areas as the soil is hard and there are root systems to navigate. You’re more likely to individually plant them. An auger drill attachment can help, though you should make the hole as small as possible.

It should be noted that the success rate may be lower as the bulbs are competing with these large root systems for nutrients. You can read about my experience planting on my sidewalk strip under oak trees in this post.

How do I stop squirrels from digging up my bulbs?

Squirrels and other small mammals are attracted to the fresh soil after you’ve planted a bulb. You want to try to cover up any indication of fresh soil. Mulch can help hide this.

You also want to remove anything that may be attracting them to the area, such as garbage, compost, or bird feeders.

If you’re really concerned, you can place a hard wire over the top of the bulbs.

Personally, I plant with the knowledge that some of my bulbs may be dug up. It seems only fair they get a few bulbs too!

Is it better to plant flower bulbs earlier or later in the fall?

Earlier is usually better, but it depends on your climate. The planting should be done before the hard frost to allow the bulb to establish a root system. However, if you’re experiencing a warm fall, you may want to wait later to avoid hot conditions.

Should I fertilize flower bulbs?

I don’t fertilize much in my garden, as I work hard to feed my soil by adding layers of compost and leaf mulch every year. Only if you have poor soil conditions, you may want to fertilize. This is especially helpful if you have perennial bulbs and want them to bloom prolifically the following year. Fertilize after the bulbs have finished flowering in the spring.

Fall Bulb Giveaway!

I’m thrilled to partner with Flowerbulb.eu to give $100 worth of fall bulbs to one lucky Garden Therapy reader.

To enter, leave a comment on this post letting me know what fall bulbs you want to plant in your garden this year.

Contest is open to U.S. residents only and runs until October 3, 11:59 PM. The winner will be chosen using a random number generator. Good luck!!

That rounds up all of my fall bulb tips and guides! If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below or check out Flowerbulb.eu for more helpful information about planting bulbs.

More Fall Bulb Planting Tips

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

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Stephanie Rose

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September 26, 2025
How to Care for Mum Flowers and Keep Them Blooming All Year Long

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It’s hard to think of a flower that screams fall as much as mums do. These plants pop up practically everywhere this season, with good reason. They are hardy plants that can withstand the changing climate and add lovely pops of colour to your porch. Here’s how to care for mum flowers and keep them thriving.

One of the most frequent questions I get asked in the fall is how to care for mums and extend the blooms of these hardy plants! Hardy Mums, Chrysanthemums, or Fall Mums are everywhere in the fall: garden centres, grocery stores, and seemingly everyone in the neighbourhood’s front porch.

These vibrant autumn bloomers are easy to care for and come in many different colours and sizes, making them a great choice for any garden or fall planter project. They also happen to be affordable and, with the proper care, can last quite a while.

Many people just buy a potted mum in the fall and toss it away after its blooms are finished. With a little care and know-how, you can actually overwinter mums and even propagate them so that mum flowers you bought in the fall can keep brightening your garden year after year.

Read on to find out how to choose, plant, overwinter, propagate, and care for hardy mums.

Jump ahead to…

Why Grow Hardy Mums?

Hardy mums are drought-resistant, don’t generally get a lot of diseases or attract pests, and are very low maintenance. Additionally, this late-season bloomer comes in a wide variety of colours and sizes, so it will look at home in any style of garden.

Fall mums can be planted in containers or in the ground and take well to propagation and creative planter projects like pumpkin planters.

Tips for Picking Mums That Will Last

Many garden centres are selling hardy mums for fall, as they are such a great way to add some vibrant colour to the autumn garden. I’ve also seen them in grocery stores, as well as home improvement stores.

Here’s a simple tip that can help you choose the longest-lasting mums possible. It can be tempting to buy a plant that is already bursting with gorgeous jewel-toned flowers but pick one that is not in full bloom yet. Instead, choose a plant that has a lot of buds and lush green foliage that does not look at all wilted.

Fall mums that are already covered in open flowers may be at or past their peak blooming time and will not last much longer, while plants that are just at the budding stage will give you a much longer display. It’s worth the wait!

A well-selected mum should give you blooms for 3-4 weeks, helping you to extend the joys of the growing season.

How to Plant Mums in the Garden

If you wish to transplant your hardy mums from a container to your garden, be sure to do it before the first frost of the season. The earlier you get your mum in the ground, the more likely it will survive the winter.

Make sure you plant them in a location that gets about six hours of sun per day and has well-draining soil.

Do not fertilize mums in the fall, as this can negatively affect blooming. If you purchased your mums in the spring, you can fertilize them up until early summer. I tend to only fertilize potted plants as anything in the garden is already getting what it needs via soil!

Watering Hardy Mums

Mums require little on the gardener’s part, except for a little watering. Water new transplants thoroughly and often, never letting them dry out completely.

Once established, you can reduce watering to once a week. Browning bottom leaves and dropping flowers are signs of not watering enough.

Overwintering Hardy Mums

You can overwinter hardy mums, but to do so, they need sufficient time to set their roots and become established in the garden. This means that your best bet is planting them in the spring so that by the time winter rolls around, they are ready to handle it.

However, if you bought and planted your mums in the fall, you can still overwinter them as long as they went into the ground before the first frost—they will just need a little extra care.

Don’t prune fall-planted mums. The wilted brown foliage will act as protection from the harsh winter cold. After the first frost, mulch mums generously. A thick layer of leaves covering them will do wonders for winter protection.

Overwintering Mum Flowers in Pots

If your fall mums are in pots, keep them there over the winter. You can move the potted mum flowers to a protected spot such as beneath an evergreen tree with low sheltering branches, by the side of a building, or inside a garden shed. This will shield them from the cold and help them survive the winter.

Overwintering will only work with hardy mums. Florist mums make a lovely annual but will not come back year after year.

Spring Mums Care for Fall Flowers

If you overwintered your fall mums, cut back the old stems as soon as you see them beginning to re-grow as one of your spring gardening tasks.

To encourage your mums to bloom again in the fall, you will need to “pinch” them. This means that once the plant has grown to about five inches in height, you should cut one to two inches of new growth from each shoot. After the plant grows another four to five inches, repeat the process.

Keep doing this until mid-July for bushy mum flowers that bloom like crazy in the fall. If you do not pinch back your mums, they will bloom in mid-summer and will not bloom again in the fall. And we want as much colour in the fall as possible!

Propagating Mum Flowers

Mums take very well to propagation. To get even more mums, take a cutting of new growth and remove the bottom leaves. Plant the cutting into a small pot filled with good quality, well-draining soil.

To speed up the rooting process, dip the end of the cutting in rooting hormone before planting it in the soil. Once the plant has taken root and is growing healthily, you can transplant it to a larger container or to the garden.

Frequently Asked Questions About Mum Flowers

When do mums bloom?

Without pinching, mums will naturally bloom in mid-summer. To prevent this, you want to begin pinching the plant for every 5 inches of growth beginning in the spring through to mid-July. Then, you’ll get the classic fall blooming mums.

If you buy potted mums, you can expect them to also bloom in the fall. For the most part, you won’t even begin to see mums until the end of summer to early fall, when the plant already has buds and blooms.

What can you do with potted mums after blooming?

If it’s before the first frost, you can try to overwinter your mums by planting them in the garden. This allows them some time to set roots before the cold settles in. Don’t prune them, and cover the base with a good layer of mulch.

You can also try to leave them in the container. In this case, move them to a place where they’ll be protected, like underneath an evergreen tree or in a garden shed.

There you have it. You can now enjoy the beauty of mums all year long! Let me know of any more questions in the comments down below.

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A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

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Stephanie Rose

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September 3, 2025
How to Store Bulbs Over Winter: Save Your Summer-Flowering Bulbs!
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Bulbs are one of the brightest, boldest ways to fill your garden with a rainbow of colours and scents. But when fall comes around, we’re not ready to say goodbye to those summer-flowering bulbs. Learn how to store bulbs over winter so you can enjoy the same flowers again next season!

Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

Over here on Garden Therapy, I have so much advice on bulbs. I just can’t get enough of them! They’re simply one of the best, most affordable ways to fill your garden with colour, fragrance, and create a haven for bees and other pollinators.

One of the first sights of spring, bulbs represent transformation. To me, bulbs symbolize the season’s rebirth and create instant optimism. Nothing gets me quite as giddy for the gardening season as seeing bulbs!

While there are spring bulbs, there are also plenty of summer-flowering, tender bulbs. These flowers are known for being extra brilliant, providing epic colour amid the growing season. Unfortunately, these bulbs in the winter are not cold hardy and often don’t return the following season when left in the ground.

Bulbs remain one of the most affordable ways to fill your home with flowers, but when you need to replace them every year, it can add up! However, you can learn how to dig up and store bulbs over the winter and continue to use the same bulbs every growing season. Here’s how!

Jump ahead to…

Spring Bulbs Vs Summer Flowering Bulbs

Not all bulbs are the same! Spring bulbs, or the more accurate name of fall bulbs, are considered the same thing. Planted in the fall, they pop up and emerge in the spring for a splash of colour after a dreary winter.

These spring bulbs must be planted in the fall because they rely on the cold. The cold tells them to develop roots, and they know it’s time to spring up when the weather begins to warm.

On the other end, you have summer flowering bulbs. These are planted in the spring and bloom in the summer. Complete sun lovers, these plants don’t love the cold as much and may need to consider wintering bulbs. Otherwise, they’re treated as annuals.

While I’m using the term bulb, this also applies to tubers, corms, and rhizomes. All refer to the swollen underground part of the plant used to store food. However, where they store the food varies, which is the key difference in the names. But! These tips for overwintering bulbs will apply to all under the “bulb” category.

Dahlia tubers can even be divided in the fall to make more plants.

Can You Leave Bulbs in the Ground Over Winter?

When looking at what to do with your bulbs in winter, you need to determine which bulbs are sun lovers and which ones are cold-hardy. The spring bulbs should stay in the ground over winter since they rely on the cold to bloom. The summer-flowering bulbs, meanwhile, may need to be dug up, or they may rot if left in the soil.

Depending on where you live, some summer-flowering bulbs may be okay to stay in the ground. Here are some of the most popular summer-flowering bulbs and the zones they’re cold hardy in.
- Ranunculus USDA zones 8-10
- Dahlia USDA zones 8-11
- Gladiolus USDA zones 8-11
- Calla lily USDA zones 8-10
- Crocosmia USDA zones 6-9
- Freesia USDA zones 9-10
- Canna lily USDA zones 7-11
- Liatris USDA zones 3-8
- Tuberous begonia USDA zones 9-10
- Anemone USDA zones 4-8
If these bulbs are hardy in your zone, you can still help them during the winter. Wait until the foliage has completely died down before trimming it down to 2-3 inches. Add a layer of mulch over the bulbs to help retain the warmth while they rest up for the winter.

Honestly, I leave most of my summer bulbs in the garden rather than digging them up and storing them. I treat them as annuals and don’t feel guilty about letting them decompose in the ground. But I know that many people don’t want to spend money on bulbs every year or may have some specialty bulbs they want to keep. So that’s where these tips come in!

Gladiolus grow from corms, so they’re not technically true bulbs, but they can still be stored over winter using these instructions.

How to Store Bulbs Over Winter

If you have tender perennials, you’ll likely need to dig them up if you want to enjoy them again next season. Luckily, figuring out how to store bulbs over winter isn’t hard to do!

Dig Up Bulbs

Those bulbs need to get out of the ground! You’ll want to harvest the bulbs once all the foliage is dead. The leaves should easily pull away when tugged at. This should be done before the first frost, or it may be too late for the bulbs.

Use a garden fork to gently dig up the bulbs. Once again, be gently or you may pierce delicate root systems (like dahalia tubers).

Carefully brush the excess dirt off the bulbs. You can even rinse them if you’d like. Trim the foliage to 2-3 inches and cut any long, dangling roots.

Dry Out Bulbs

The bulbs will be full of moisture, so it’s vital to let them air dry before you pack them away for the winter.

First things first, make sure you label everything. Once dug up, all bulbs will look the same. So ensure you have masking or flagging tape and Sharpie ready to label all containers the bulbs will go in.

Set out newspaper or paper towel in a warm, dry place. Lay the bulbs out and allow them to sit for a couple of days. Let them completely dry and be free of any moisture before storing them.

Amaryllis bulbs ready to be stored. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

Store Bulbs

Storing bulbs is a delicate balance, as you don’t want them to get moist and become mouldy or rotten. However, you don’t want them to completely shrivel and dry up either. So ideally, you want to keep the moisture the bulbs have after drying out for a couple of days, but not obtaining any more.

Place your bulbs in a plastic container or cardboard box. Put down one layer, trying to ensure the bulbs don’t touch one another (in case one gets mouldy, you don’t want it to spread). Add a layer of growing medium, such as coconut coir, vermiculite, or sawdust. Ensure the tops are fully covered.

Add another layer of bulbs and growing medium, ensuring they all get enough air circulation.

There are many different ways to store bulbs. People will all have their own suggestions on the best storage methods, and one isn’t necessarily better than the other. For instance, Holly, our Content Manager, stores her dahlia tubers in plastic saran wrap, wrapping up divided tubers and storing them in a cardboard box.

Check the bulbs every once in a while to look for signs of rot, disposing of any rotten bulbs. Let the bulbs rest for a few months before planting again.

Depending on where you live, this should be around four months. Bulbs won’t usually last more than a year on storage, so planting late is better than never!

Plant Bulbs

Planting times will vary based on your location and the bulb type, but typically most tender bulbs should be planted after the last frost. When taking bulbs out of storage, any healthy bulbs will be large and firm. Get rid of any that look mushy or cracked.

When you’re ready to plant, check out this planting guide for summer-flowering bulbs.

Overwintering Bulbs in Containers

One of my favourite ways to display bulbs is in containers. You can dig up some of your spring bulbs, or plant new ones altogether, to get an impressive display of colour in the spring.

With careful layering and the right container choice, you can easily do the work in the fall for a gorgeous spring. Check out my layering technique here!

Layered daffodil bulbs in a container. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

Frequently Asked Questions About Wintering Bulbs

What is overwintering?

Overwintering is the steps taken to help ensure a plant survives the winter. Typically, this involves protecting the plants from the cold by doing things like moving them inside or to a sheltered area, covering them with a protective layer, adding mulch, etc. Some plants need help overwintering, and others are fine all on their own.

Do you need to dig up bulbs in the winter?

This depends on the type of bulb. Spring bulbs should be left in the ground year-round. They require the cold to develop their roots and need the winter as part of their process.

As for tender, summer-flowering bulbs, follow your zone rules as to whether or not you need to winterize the bulbs. Most will need to be dug up before the first frost and brought inside to be dried and stored for the winter to be used again.

Should I water plants when overwintering?

Tender bulbs do not need to be watered. You want to avoid moisture and promote circulation as much as possible.

As for spring/fall bulbs, you want to water them as soon as you plant them in the fall in a well-draining area. Once things cool down, you don’t need to water or protect them. All the work is done!

That covers everything about how to winterize bulbs! Just taking an hour in the fall to dig up your bulbs will allow you to enjoy your flowers again and again.

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Stephanie Rose

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September 17, 2024
Fall Gardening Make Simple: Quick Tips for Busy Gardeners

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Let’s not Konmari our backyards. It doesn’t need to be a beautifully curated and perfect space before we settle in for the winter. No, let’s make fall gardening the relaxing activity it’s supposed to be! Here’s how to make your fall garden tasks easier to tackle when you’re feeling overwhelmed.

If you were to pop into my home, you’d see the graveyard of half-completed to-do lists. A post-it note here, a scribbled napkin there, and perhaps even the remnants of a half-finished task.

Some have most things crossed off, some just a couple. I’m busy, I’m overwhelmed, and that’s okay.

It happens to us all, and having a long list of to-dos can get very overwhelming very quickly.

When it comes to the fall garden, I always make a checklist (like this one here). There’s a lot of work that goes into putting the garden to rest while still trying to squeeze out as much of the remaining sun and warmth as possible.

Us gardeners know that spring and fall are truly the busiest gardening months, not the summer when the plants are busy doing their own thing.

While checklists and to-do lists are very helpful for some, including my past self, I’m trying a different approach this year, and I wanted to share it with you.

This post will cover…

Planting bulbs with a power planter is always something I do in the fall.

Making Fall Gardening Tasks Attainable

Rather than make a big list of things you need to do in the garden and set out a day or even a week to do them, give yourself a little grace.

My philosophy to gardening has always been to do what you can, and don’t fuss about it. Gardening should never be a stressful activity where you’re running ahead with a rake in one hand trying to get the leaves and a hose in the other spraying down your gardening pots.

You’ve got all the time in the world!

Start with five minutes a day, or ten minutes a day, or even half an hour twice a week. Whatever time you think you have to dedicate before getting stressed about everything else you need to do in your life should be the starting point.

Set the minimum time you want to spend in the garden and make it a daily ritual. Maybe skipping a rainy day or two (I won’t tell, I promise).

For instance, your first “task” might be to deal with the compost bin. On the first day, you might turn your compost and see if it’s ready. On the third day, you could empty it and put a layer down on your gardening bed. The fourth day, you could give your compost bin a rinse, and voila! You’re done.

Things begin to slow down in the fall from the busyness of summer, so you should, too!

Go With the Momentum

Getting out in the garden for just five minutes a day is a good start. Often, starting is the hardest part. But once you’ve started, you may find yourself with more momentum than you initially thought.

This is why I always tell Kiddo that the very first thing to put on a to-do list is “make a list.” Because you instantly get to check it off, and you feel so good. That rush of dopamine propels you into doing the next thing.

Prioritize Your Tasks

Some tasks you must do, like putting away your outdoor furniture and cleaning out your water feature, while some tasks you could get away with not doing, like dividing perennials or recycling plant pots.

Make sure to get to those must-dos first so you know that if you run out of time and energy for the others, it’s not the end of the world.

Work From Front to Back

If you look out at your garden and all you see are tasks and too much to do, you might need a different approach. In this case, I like to work from the back of my garden to the front, the left to the right, or vice versa. Just start with one spot and slowly work your way over until the garden is more manageable.

Enjoy your fall bloomers, like echinacea, while you’re at it.

Fall Gardening Tasks to Consider

You can definitely still make a general list, or break up larger tasks into smaller ones. However you want to do it, you’re welcome to do it.

This year, we’re coming from a place of forgiveness and peacefulness. There’s no pressure to make your yard look perfect and to get everything done before the first frost touches ground.

Below are some tasks I usually like to complete in the garden. Use them as inspiration for making your own list, but remember, you only do what you can. Your garden will be okay, regardless!

Plastic Nursery Pots

If you’re like me, you might have a small mountain of plastic nursery pots hiding away somewhere in your garden.

If they’re collected cobwebs and standing water and are overall icky and not something you want to even touch, it’s time to get rid of them. Recycle them the next garbage day in your city allows them.

More on recycling plant pots in this post.

Yes, it’s nice to keep a few for seed starting. But recycle what you don’t need!

Look for the recycling symbol on the bottom of your plastic nursery pots.

Clean Your Pots

For all those pots you’ve decided to keep, it’s time to give them a clean. You can give them a quick clean with the garden hose, or wash them with dish soap and a sponge for a more thorough clean (I like to do this with my terracotta).

Stack them neatly and safely, somewhere where they’re ideally covered and protected from nesting animals and the cold from potentially cracking them.

Dirty pots can have pests, bacteria, fungus, and minerals that could harm plants you plan to pot in them next year.

Container Plants

If you have plants that will be staying in their containers for the winter, AKA your perennials, you’ll want to give them some TLC. Everyone needs a helping hand to get through the winter, let’s be real!

Drain any water you might have from self-watering pots. But keep any tender plants undercover or tuck them away in the garage.

I also like to still get my creative itch out in the fall, and containers are a great way to do this. You can decorate hardy planters with fall annuals and some evergreens for some seasonal and festive gardening.

Many garden centres will have plenty of fall annuals for sale to spruce up your summer planters.

Discard Old Seeds and Bulbs

I know you look at that crusty, dusty bag of bulbs you forgot to plant and think, “Maybe I can still get them in the ground next year.”

It’s time to let go. Ditch the guilt, and compost those old bulbs and get rid of those seeds. Try again next year with some new summer bulbs or plant some spring bulbs right now!

You can always try and sow some seeds now and see what happens. You never know, you could get some beautiful flowers next spring. Or not. But it doesn’t really matter!

Clean Out the Garden Shed

I bet you there are either dried-up grass clippings, little pieces of caked mud, mouse droppings, or cobwebs hanging out in your garden shed.

Give the floor a quick sweep. If you’re feeling up to it, organize and purge as necessary.

My she-shed set-up at my old house.

Soil Prep

Your garden beds are easy peasy. I leave all the seed heads, dead foliage, and dying plants to return to the earth. Don’t worry about making everything look pristine.

The only thing I do with my garden beds is add a layer of compost. I then cover it with leaves. I’m a firm believer of leave the leaves, instead leaving them to be chopped up in the lawn mower or pushed into the gardening beds to become natural mulch and feed the soil.

Prepare Your Water Features for Winter

If you have water features in your garden, such as a pond or fountain, you will want to prepare them for winter. Otherwise, they might break or be damaged the following spring.

Follow these instructions on what to do with your water features.

Clean Your Garden Tools

Now, I know I’m supposed to sanitize my pruners whenever I clip something new, but that doesn’t always happen. And there maybe a little rust on them too. Just maybe.

The end of the summer is a good time to go through your gardening tools and give them a good clean. I list out my tool care in this post if you want to check it out.

You’ll want to take the pruners apart to fully clean and sanitize them.

Move Furniture Undercover

Outdoor furniture goes through A LOT, and the winter certainly isn’t its friend. Most outdoor furniture has such a short lifespan (it’s actually quite a big pet peeve of mine), and we want to prolong its life as long as possible by tucking it away for the winter.

Before storing it for the winter, I like to make repairs to any broken pieces, wash any fabrics, and sand and stain wood (which can be a big project).

Toss what can go in the washing machine, hand wiping down all the rest with a natural cleaner.

Divide Perennials

If you’re taking a look at your garden and things are starting to look a little overgrown, it might be time to divide some of your perennials. And fall is the perfect time to do so!

Generally, you need to divide your perennials every three to five years. I have a whole post dedicated to teaching you how to divide perennials.

Plant Shrubs and Trees

What if I told you that fall is the perfect time to make design changes to the garden? Yes, I’m giving you permission to go to the garden centre and buy some new plants. And better yet, all the plants are on discount.

I have some design suggestions you can follow in this post. You want to get the perennials in the ground ideally six weeks before the first big frost to give the plants time to settle in before the winter.

Trim Hedges

I’ve already started to notice the fallen soldiers of hedge trimmings when I go for a walk in my neighbourhood. Fall is also a great time to trim your hedges. This will give them the perfect shape for all winter.

Get ready to fill your compost bin with all your trimmings.

Buy New Garden Items

I like to look on Facebook Marketplace or in free groups for second-hand items I might need, whether that’s replacing some broken tools or something that’s been on the wishlist for a while.

A lot of people don’t want to store their gardening materials for the winter, so they will give away or inexpensively sell their outdoor furniture, water features, pots, etc.

And you can be there to scoop them up!

Clean anything you get secondhand to avoid accidentally transmitting anything to your garden.

Harvest Your Food

You’ve spent all spring and summer carefully tending to your veggies, berries, herbs, and fruits, so don’t let them go to waste. See if you can dedicate a day to storing your food. This can include canning, drying, or preserving them.

If I’m strapped for time, I like to freeze what I can and save it for a day when I’m not so busy and can do something with it.

You can always share your bountiful harvest with friends, family, and neighbours.

I hope this got the juices flowing. So make a fall gardening list…or don’t! Just try to enjoy your time, because even though the days may be getting shorter ever so slowly, it’s a great time to still be out enjoying the garden.

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Stephanie Rose

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September 4, 2024
Seeds to Plant in the Fall for Next Season’s Blooms – Garden Therapy
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Before we can say goodbye to the garden for the year, it’s time to plan for spring. Whether you experience a sunny winter or a snow-covered one, many seeds don’t mind waiting for winter to pass before making an appearance. Scatter these seeds to plant in the fall for a stunning display of blooms next year.

It may feel unnatural to plant seeds in the fall. After all, we’re preparing to put the garden to rest and hoping for a sleepy winter. However, many annuals and perennials also enjoy this cold spell to nestle in the ground for the winter and get a head start next spring.

Just like planting spring bulbs, you can find seeds to plant in the fall to get some extra spring (or summer) blooms.

This list covers some flowers to plant in the fall for both warm and cold climates. If you’ve still got the time and energy to do some more gardening, your spring self will forever be grateful!

Today, I’ll be covering…

Nasturtium can be planted in the fall for warmer climates.

When Should You Plant Fall Seeds

Just like nature, many plants naturally shed their seeds for the fall, survive throughout the winter, and sprout come spring.

The question I always get about plants is when can I plant them? Usually, the answer is vague, like late fall. The reality is that it’s going to be different depending on where you live!

Your best bet is to track frost dates regionally (a local gardening club may be able to help you with that). For fall planting in cold climates, you want to wait until after a killing frost has happened. AKA, nothing has grown since the summer season.

If you plant them too early, they may sprout. We want them to hibernate for the winter and emerge come spring. If you notice fall seedlings outside, mulch over them. This will try to prevent them from freezing.

In warm climates, plant your seeds right before the rainy season begins. Depending on where you live, this typically falls between late fall or early winter (check dates with your local gardening club!).

Plant your poppy seeds in the fall!

How to Plant Fall Seeds

When planting seeds, your best bet is to always read the label. You may notice that some seeds ask you to cold stratify. This is when seeds require a period of extreme cold in order to sprout. All thanks to a thick coating, their outer shell prevents them from breaking and sprouting early.

You can force cold stratification by using your fridge as it mimics winter conditions. But if it asks for cold stratification, this probably means it can be planted in the fall and naturally get its cold fill during the winter.

To plant your seeds, prepare the bed as you normally would any time of the year. Clear all debris and add in a layer of organic compost to give the seeds their best start next spring. Follow the seed packet for light and soil requirements.

Warm Climate Seeds to Plant in the Fall

For these flowers to plant in fall, no freezing is required. This list is ideal for those living in zones 9-11.
1. Morning Glory Ipomoea tricolor — zones 10-11
2. Honeywort Cerinthe — zones 9-10
3. Calendula Calendula — zones 9-11
4. Cosmos — zones 9-10
5. Spider Flower Cleome hassleriana — zones 10-11
6. Standing Cypress Imopsis rubra — zones 6-10
7. Virgina Stocks Mattiola martima — zones 9-11
8. Nasturtium Tropaeolum — zones 7-10
9. Bells of Ireland Moluccella laevis — zones 2-11
10. Sweet Peas Lathyrus odoratus — zones 2-11
11. Love-In-A-Mist Nigella damascene — zones 2-11
12. Purple Chinese Houses Collinsia heterophylla — zones 2-11
13. Baby Blue Eyes Nemophila menziesii — zones 2-11
Calendula often self seeds, and comes up in the spring all on its own!

Cool Climate Seeds to Plant in the Fall

This list covers both annuals and perennials to plant in the fall. These seeds either require cold stratification in order to bloom the following spring or they don’t mind the cold. Some will still grow in warmer zones!
1. Bells of Ireland Moluccella laevis — zones 2-11
2. Cornflower Centaurea cyanus— zones 3-8
3. Blanket Flower Gaillardia — zones 3-10
4. Poppy Papaveraceae — zones 3-8
5. Coneflower Echinacea — zones 3-9
6. Columbine Aquilegea — zones 3-9
7. Sweet Peas Lathyrus odoratus — zones 2-11
8. False Queen Anne’s Lace Ammi majus — zones 3-9
9. Foxglove Digitalis — zones 4-8
10. Sea Holly Eryngium — zones 4-9
11. Tickseed Coreopsis tinctoria — zones 3-9
12. Snapdragon Antirrhinum — zones 8-9
13. Hollyhock Alcea — zones 3-8
14. Black-Eyed Susan Rudbeckia — zones 3-9
15. Forget-Me-Not Myosotis — zones 3-8
16. Penstemon Penestemon — zones 3-8
17. Sweet William Dianthus — zones 3-9
18. Ashy Sunflower Helianthus mollis — zones 4-9 (and other perennial sunflowers)
19. Pansy Viola — zones 5-10
20. Love-In-A-Mist Nigella damascene — zones 2-11
21. Delphinium — zones 3-8
22. Basket of Gold Alyssum Aurinia saxatilis — zones 3-7
23. Chinese Forget-Me-Not Cynoglossum amabile — zones 6-9
24. Common Woolly Sunflower Eriophyllum lanatum —zones 5-8
25. Lunaria Lunaria annua — zones 5-9
26. Bigleaf Lupin Lupinus polyphyllus — zones 3-6
27. Veronica Veronica spicata — zones 4-8
28. Purple Chinese Houses Collinsia heterophylla — zones 2-11
29. Globe Gilia Gilia capitata — zones 7-10
30. Baby’s Breath Gypsophila elegans — zones 3-10
31. Baby Blue Eyes Nemophila menziesii — zones 2-11
Vegetables to Plant in The Fall

Not interested in flowers? Here’s a little bonus of vegetables you can plant in the fall and enjoy next spring and summer. You might as well get the work in now, right!?

Onions, Garlic, and Shallots

All part of the allium family, onions, garlic, and shallots are best planted in the fall due to their long growing season. It isn’t until next summer that you will be able to reap the rewards of your fall planting.

Turnips, Carrots, Radishes, and Beets

These root vegetables don’t mind hanging out in the cold. You may see minimal growth, but they will certainly get a head start come spring. You may even notice a sweeter taste.

Lettuce and Leafy Greens

Did you know you can have fresh greens year-round? By using a cold frame or mini-greenhouse, you can grow lettuce outside throughout the winter.

Broccoli and Cauliflower

In mid to warm climates, you can grow both broccoli and cauliflower to harvest next spring.

Peas

This is another one for an early spring harvest! Peas can also be grown in mild climates during the colder months. Make sure to build a trellis for them to climb on.

FAQ About Fall Planting

Do all plants reseed naturally in the fall?

It’s true that many flowers and plants will go to seed in the fall if left on the plant. However, it doesn’t necessarily mean that they’ll naturalize in your climate. The conditions for summer might be favourable enough to grow the plants, but the fall, winter, or spring might be too cold or wet or even not cold enough!

Follow the path of nature. Some plants may naturalize in your area all on their own. When in doubt, use the instructions that come on the seed package.

What is the easiest plant to grow in the fall?

Just because the weather is cooling down, it doesn’t mean you can’t grow things still. You can actually continue to grow some vegetables that are speedy growers, such as radishes, lettuce, spinach, and turnips. Find a full list of those vegetables here.

I also like to plant bulbs in the fall for the spring, and add in perennials since they’re on sale and can grow a root system in the fall before hibernating for the winter.

What month is the best to plant in fall?

You should always track your suggested last frost date (try this tool). Most plants you want in the ground before it freezes so they have some time to get settled in before the cold hits.

For seeds that you plant in the fall, you actually want to wait until after the frost, as you don’t want the seeds to sprout until the spring. Plant normally, clearing the area and covering it with a layer of soil (but read the seed packet instructions).

When in doubt, the end of October to early November is usually the best time for planting for most places.

Plant tickseed seeds in the fall.

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Stephanie Rose

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August 28, 2024
How to Save Seeds & Improve Your Vegetable Garden – Garden Therapy

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This time of year, we begin to say goodbye to this year’s vegetable garden and plan for next year’s. What better way to do both of these things than by collecting and preserving seeds to plant in the spring? Saving seeds from your very best vegetables will give you the very best seeds, so it’s worth it to take a little time and learn how to save seeds the right way.

Different seeds have different needs when it comes to collecting them for the following year. Some can simply be transferred straight from plant to seed packet, while others need a bit more attention in the form of drying or fermenting.

In this guide, I’m going to show you three different methods on how to save seeds, and which method to use for some of the most popular vegetables.

While purchasing seeds each year is a relatively economical method for growing a garden, seed saving is still an important practice. When you save seeds from your best-growing plants, you already know that they can thrive in your garden!

Year after year, your crop will get better and stronger as you continue to save only the best seeds your garden has to offer. The practice of seed saving is also a traditional process. For many, growing seeds passed down from older generations honours their history.

This guide will cover…

Don’t forget to save some flower seeds too!

Seed Saving Supplies

First, you’ll need a supply of seed envelopes for keeping your seeds stored and labelled. We’ve got you covered with lots of free printable seed packets here:

You’ll also need a tool for snipping seed pods in the garden. A small pair of scissors, such as embroidery scissors, is perfect for the job. You will also want a basket or paper bag for collecting pods out in the garden before you transfer them to their envelopes.

For drying and fermenting seeds, you will need paper towel and Mason jars.

Print these seed envelopes at home for easy and cute packaging.

How to Save Seeds Method 1: Mature in the Garden

Some vegetable seeds, such as the ones listed below, will germinate and grow better if they are allowed to mature and ripen right on the plant. When they are ready, simply collect them and store them in an envelope for next year.

For this method, choose to harvest seeds on a dry day in the early afternoon when seeds are retaining the least amount of water.

How to Save Lettuce and Cabbage Seeds

When your lettuce or cabbage plant begins to flower, place a plastic bag over it. When the seeds are ready, they will drop naturally and be contained in the bag, ready for you to collect and store. How convenient! If you want to try something new for your lettuce garden, try some of these unusual leafy greens instead.

How to Save Pea and Bean Seeds

If pods are green, that means the seeds are still ripening and receiving nutrients from the pods. Be patient and wait until the pods are completely brown before you harvest them. Spread peas and beans out on a clean, dry surface and leave them to dry for a week or so before storing.

You can tell whether or not the seeds are dry enough to be stored by biting one. If it is hard when you bite down on it, it is ready to be packed into a seed envelope and stored for the season. Come planting, make your own pea trellis to support your newly saved seeds.

Once harvested, let your pea and bean seeds dry for a week before storing.

Seed Saving Method 2: Ferment

Some seeds need to be fermented for them to germinate properly. To induce fermentation, soak seeds in water for a few days, then collect, dry, and store them.

How to Save Cucumber Seeds

Wait until the cucumber is a bit overripe and its flesh has turned somewhat yellow in colour, then cut it in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds with a spoon.

Drop the seeds into a Mason jar half-filled with water. Cover and let sit for three or four days. The best seeds will sink to the bottom of the jar. Collect those seeds and spread them out to dry on a paper towel. Once they are completely dry, store them in the refrigerator.

Store cucumber seeds in the refrigerator.

How to Save Melon Seeds

Cut a ripe melon in half and scoop out the seeds. Rinse them gently under warm water to remove excess fruit. Put the seeds in a covered Mason jar half-filled with water and let sit for two to four days.

As with cucumbers, the best melon seeds will sink to the bottom, while the ones you don’t want will continue to float. Dry the sunken seeds on a paper towel and store them in a seed envelope until you are ready to plant them.

How to Save Tomato Seeds

Fermenting tomato seeds requires a few more steps, but it is SO worth it! For tomato seeds, you want just enough water to cover the seeds and surrounding tomato guts.

Instead of using the Mason jar lid, use the Mason jar ring to screw on and hold a paper towel in place. After a few days of sitting in their Mason jar, you should have a full cover of mould on the seeds. Yes, this is a good sign!

Then your seeds are ready to be strained and dried. See detailed instructions in this post on how to save heirloom tomato seeds.

Mould is a good sign when it comes to fermenting tomato seeds.

How to Save Cucamelon Seeds

Similar to tomatoes, you can ferment cucamelons using the same method. Their seeds will come back true to seed each year (the same as the original plant).

To learn more about this delightful mini fruit, check out my cucamelon growing guide.

Follow the same steps as a tomato to save cucamelon seeds.

Seed Saving Method 3: Scoop Out and Dry

The scoop-out and dry seed saving method involves simply scooping seeds out from the inside of veggies and laying them out to dry.

How to Save Pumpkin Seeds

When squash or pumpkins have developed a hard outer shell, they are ready to be harvested for seed saving. Cut the squash or pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds and rinse them under warm water.

Then, pat them dry and spread them out on a clean, dry surface. Wait until the pumpkin seeds are completely dry before packaging them up for storage.

Different varieties of squash and pumpkin can cross-pollinate with each other, so the seeds you save might produce something that is not quite the same as the squash you collected the seeds from. This can be a really fun surprise!

Save the seeds from your pumpkin carving to plant in your garden next year.

How to Save Pepper Seeds

Most peppers will turn a dark red colour when they reach full maturity. At this point, harvest them and slice them in half.

Use your fingers to remove the seeds and spread them around on a paper towel placed away from direct sunlight…then make sure to wash your hands!

Leave the seeds to dry like this for one or two weeks, then store in an airtight container. When you’re ready to plant them, be sure to check out my growing guide for peppers, sweet and spicy!

Make sure to wash your hands after saving pepper seeds.

How to Save Strawberry Seeds

Though technically not a vegetable, strawberry seeds are easy to save using a smear and dry method. Rather than scooping the seeds, you will want to smoosh them on your paper towel. Then, let them dry somewhere warm.

Once dry, you can fold up the paper and stick it in an envelope for safekeeping. In the spring, scrape the seeds into soil and watch your strawberries grow.

Personally, I love to grow alpine strawberries and the process is near identical. Find more detailed instructions on this post on how I save my alpine strawberry seeds.

Since strawberry seeds are so tiny, keep them directly on the paper towel in storage so you don’t lose them.

FAQ About Saving Vegetable Seeds

How can I save kale and radish seeds?

Let these seeds mature directly on the plant. Harvest pods when they feel dry. To open the pods, rub them gently between your palms.

Is it illegal to save seeds?

When it comes to seed saving, many gardeners do not have to worry about the legalities. Most GMO and hybrid seeds are under a patent, meaning that farmers and other commercial growers can only grow these if they sign a contract. This contract states that they can’t save the seeds for the following year, only buying the rights to grow the purchased seeds.

However, if you are sticking to seed saving for your garden or to share with loved ones and neighbours through a seed library, you should be just fine. Heirloom seeds are well worth saving. No profit, no problem! For more on the difference between heirloom, GMO, and hybrid seeds, visit this post.

Can old seeds still grow?

Have you ever planted some old seeds only to find that they never germinate? Sometimes, this can put you weeks behind your growing schedule before you notice. All seeds should be stored in a cool, dark, and dry place to make sure they last as long as possible. Always write the date you saved/stored them.

When stored right, all seeds should last a year. Depending on the plant, they can be good for as long as 2-5 years. For example, tomatoes last around 5 years, while peas and beans are only good for 2. Research your specific vegetable seed upon saving, and feel free to add a best-before-date when storing. This way you know what to plant come spring and never let any of your seeds go bad before planting.

If you’re ever unsure about the viability of your old seeds, you can easily perform the germination test described in this post.

More Posts About Seeds

Want to save other seeds, too? Click to learn all about saving flower seeds.

Now that you’ve saved all those seeds get ready to plant them next year!

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Stephanie Rose

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August 27, 2024
Planting now for a quick fall harvest

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Thanks to Park Seed for partnering with me on this post. As always, all words, thoughts and vegetable opinions are my own.

There are gardeners who have spreadsheets and schedules that tell them exactly what seeds they should be starting when. Those same gardeners undoubtedly started seeds for fall sowing under lights probably a few weeks ago.

I am not that gardener. Don’t get me wrong, I’d like to be, but the fact is that at this time of year I’m too busy enjoying summer to be organized enough to plan for fall. But I’m also guilt-ridden by seeing bare soil in the vegetable garden where something could be growing.

And that’s where direct sowing—planting seeds directly into the garden—comes in to save the day. And even here in my zone 5 garden, there’s still time to plant some crops for a fall harvest.

When it comes to growing late season vegetables, the main thing I look for when choosing varieties is the time to harvest. Whatever you grow will be significantly tastier than anything you’d buy in the store, so the key is to just grow something.

At the top of my must-grow list is lettuce, which I still consider my favorite vegetable to grow as it is so easy, so cheap and so much better than store-bought. Lettuce definitely prefers cooler temperatures, so it is perfect for planting now. I’ll be growing a lot of Salad Bowl Mix, as it is easy to sow around other crops or in any available spot in the garden. Heading lettuces typically take a bit longer to harvest (although to be clear, you can eat heading lettuce before it makes a nice head and it will still taste great), but there should still be time to harvest Mini Romaine. I bought it as a seed tape so no thinning is necessary, a job that I know I’m bound to forget in the early fall hubbub.

Seed tape eliminates having to thin seedlings later, which is a bonus during a busy late summer gardening season. Simply lay out the tape and cover lightly with soil, then water well and keep them consistently moist until they germinate.

Whether planting seed or convenient seed tape, lettuce couldn’t be easier: just sow thinly and cover with just a dusting of soil. Moisture is key for germination, so it’s important to keep the soil consistently moist until it gets a good start.

Consistent moisture is key to seed germination. When direct sowing that means daily, and possibly even twice daily, light waterings .

Other greens are also great for cool-season growing, including Darkside Hybrid Spinach (ready for harvest in just 25 to 30 days) and Black Magic kale, which really might be the perfect kale. I’m still eating the last bits of the spring-planted kale, but some fresh new plants will be a delicious treat. And kale not only withstands a frost, it tastes better after one.

I left the best of the spring-planted kale standing so we have some kale to eat in the meantime, but planted additional Black Magic kale seeds near it for fresh kale that will only taste better after a frost.

Carrots love a bit of cold as well and can be picked at any stage (just don’t let them get too big). Choosing a variety was easy: I just picked the quickest to mature that I could find: Scarlet Nantes at 62 days to maturity.

The last of my late-season crops is one I have been sleeping on for years: peas. I never even thought to grow them in fall until a few years ago and it turns out I often get better harvests in fall than spring. Again I went for the quickest maturing: Patio Pride, a variety that’s great for containers but works well growing anywhere.

As space in the garden opens up—perhaps when the cucumbers and beans are finished—I’ll sow more seeds, particularly of the quickest-growing vegetables. For now, I’ve tucked them in everywhere, including between the onions that have just a little bit of growing left to do.

Direct sowing several kinds of seeds took very little time, and any times spent tending them will be well worth it in a couple months when I’m still enjoying the harvest from the vegetable garden.

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Erin @ The Impatient Gardener

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December 7, 2023