Tag: fall bulbs

My Fall Bulb Master Guide (for Spring Blooming Flowers) – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

You get a tulip, you get a hyacinth, you get a crocus! Yes, folks, fall bulb planting season is upon us. It’s singlehandedly one of the best things you can do this time of year for your future self. Plant fall bulbs now, and they’ll be one of the first blooms to welcome you next spring.

While others may be mourning the loss of summer, I’m over here buzzing about it being fall bulb season. Come September, the displays are full of tons of brilliant bulbs you can plant now for the spring.

One minute I’m shopping for garlic, the next thing you know, I’m leaving with $100 worth of flower bulbs to plant that weekend.

Fall bulbs and spring flowering bulbs are the same thing. One refers to when you plant it, and the other to when they flower.

It can be hard to think about next season’s garden when you’re still enjoying the last of this year’s harvest and blooms, but just a little work now will bring you so much joy next winter.

I’ve got plenty to say about fall bulbs, so let me dive in with all my planting tips. And make sure you read to the end for a can’t miss fall bulb giveaway!

Sponsored Content: A huge thank you to Flowerbulb.eu for sponsoring this post and providing many beautiful photos. Flowerbulb.eu is an invaluable resource for planting fall bulbs and has information on all kinds of unique bulbs you can grow for this spring. Be sure to check them out for more information and tips on growing everything bulbs.

Fall bulbs can create an epic display in the spring. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

What is a Flower Bulb?

We refer to most as “bulbs,” but some are also corms and tubers. For instance, crocus grow from corms while summer favourites like dahlias and begonias grow from tubers. Their appearance varies slightly, but for the sake of the article, I’ll refer to everything as a bulb! The care is fairly similar for each.

Bulbs are special in that they hold all the food the flower needs to thrive. If you’ve ever seen a package with bulbs already sprouting, that’s why,

Some bulbs are designed for annual planting, others for perennial or naturalizing. Annuals often are bred to be very showy, either in size or colour. Because of how much work it takes for the bulb to produce such a flower, it often won’t bloom again.

Perennials are bred for multiple-year flowering. They can remain in the ground all year round, becoming part of your garden bed plantings.

Naturalized bulbs are meant to multiply and spread. They can work in mass on their own or be part of a bed with other plants. They also work wonderfully in lawns.

Tulip bulbs are a “true bulb”

When Should I Plant Fall Bulbs?

When you should plant fall bulbs will vary greatly depending on where you live. They must be planted in the fall and before the first hard frost. This gives the bulb a chance to develop some root systems and settle in before winter.

This can be anywhere from September to December, depending on your climate. When in doubt, the package will tell you everything you need to know about when and how to plant the particular bulb.

Ideally, you want to plant them shortly after bringing them home. Most online retailers won’t ship the bulbs to you until they’re ready to plant in your hardiness zone. In the store, they’ll have them a little earlier. You can store them for a little while if necessary, keeping the bulbs between 10°-15°C.

For individual plantings, I use an auger drill attachment to help speed things up.

How to Plant Fall Bulbs

Again, the instructions will vary depending on the bulb you’re growing. Each bulb should be planted at different depths, and the sun and water conditions may vary slightly. My instructions below are a good rule of thumb for all bulbs, corms, and tubers.

Good drainage is a universal rule to follow. Bulbs will rot if sitting in any kind of water, so avoid any wet sections in your garden.

Most bulbs thrive in full or partial sun. Since these bulbs bloom in spring, they might enjoy more sunlight than you may think because the trees and shrubs haven’t leafed out yet.

When planting, you can plant them individually or in mass by digging trenches. Typically, smaller plants, like crocus, do well in mass while larger bulbs, such as alliums, work best with individual plantings. I like to work in compost to help improve drainage.

Generally, larger bulbs (2+ inches across) should be planted 6-8 inches deep, and smaller bulbs (1 inch or less) are planted 3-4 inches deep. Depth can change depending on your climate. For our mild winters, that depth is plenty in my garden. It’s best to refer to the package for the exact planting range. Warmer climates can handle the shallowest depth, where colder climates will want to use the maximum of the range.

Plant the bulbs with the pointy side facing up. Place, don’t push the bulb in. Cover with soil and then water generously if the soil isn’t already wet or you’re planting in dry conditions. Add a layer of mulch to help insulate the soil and stop it from drying out.

Bulbs should be planted “pointy” side up. These bulbs need to be set correctly before covering with soil.

Caring for Fall Bulbs

Once they’ve been planted, there’s very little work that needs to go into caring for your fall bulbs. They’ll be fine in the winter, sheltered under the cover of snow until they’re ready to emerge in the spring.

Many bulbs will actually naturalize or be perennials in the garden, returning year after year to bring you spring joy. Some bulbs, such as tulips and hyacinths, will bloom abundantly in their first couple of years and slowly taper off.

In the spring, you can snip faded flowers, but it’s important you leave the foliage until it turns completely yellow. The bulbs need time to charge and gather nutrients through the foliage to return the following year.

Crocus blooming amongst sedum.

Planting Bulbs in Pots

Yes, fall bulbs can also be planted in pots! This is a great option for those with a small space or who want to decorate their patio or balcony. I make a container every fall for my front door, and it’s always such a delight come springtime.

For successful bulb containers, you have to make sure the pot is deep enough and has good drainage. Use fresh soil when planting.

You can see exactly how I layer my bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, and crocus. The top layer will bloom first while the ones below make their way up the soil.

In containers, you can pack the bulbs closer than you would in a garden bed. I also like to top mine off with fall annuals, so it looks good in the fall while the bulbs are resting.

You may need to water your containers periodically, especially if they’re under protection from the outside.

Here’s a sample of combining bulbs in containers. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

Fall Bulb Grow Guides

I’ve written extensively about fall bulbs, including these dedicated guides for some of the most popular bulbs. Check them out for specific growing tips and tricks!

Tulips

Did you know that some tulips are perennials while others are annuals? You want to ensure you know which ones you’re buying to curb your expectations. I recently had the joy of planting over 250 tulip bulbs to grow as cutting flowers. Read these tips for growing tulips for a cutting garden.

Due to their popularity, there is an incredible variety of shapes and colours for tulip flowers.

Daffodils

Confession: I used to dislike daffodils. The bright yellow heads were always a little too much for me. But then I learned about the sheer number of daffodil varieties, and how versatile they can be.

Here’s how to grow daffodils!

Narcissus ‘Kiwi-Sunset.’ Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

Alliums

Alliums have long been one of my spring favourites, particularly the giant balls known as Globmaster alliums. As part of the onion family, you can truly grow some wacky and wonderful alliums.

Check out some of the allium var i eties.

A. giganteum ‘Globemaster.’ Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

Crocus

The true herald of spring is not the robin, but the crocus flowers. I often see these flowers blooming even when there is snow or frost still on the ground. They’re great for mass plantings in garden beds and are a go-to for bulb lawns and naturalizing.

Plant and grow crocus with the help of my guide.

Can you spot the bee paying a visit?

Specialty Bulbs

Everyone knows tulips and daffodils, but not everyone is as familiar with other fun fall bulbs, such as the checkered lily or Dutch iris. Here are 12 extraordinary fall bulbs to consider planting.

Checkered Lily (Fritillaria meleagris). Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu.

Naturalizing Bulbs

Naturalizing is a gardener’s dream. This is when the bulbs produce more bulbs on their own, naturally multiplying their numbers each subsequent year. I’ve done tons of work naturalizing bulbs in my front lawn. You can find all my tips for naturalizing garden beds and lawns here!

A mix of crocus and short tulips for naturalizing. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulb.eu

Fall Bulb FAQ

Can I plant flower bulbs among trees, shrubs, and perennials?

Yes, and it’s a great way to bring some beauty before the perennials leaf out and everything else isn’t blooming yet. It can be difficult to plant in these areas as the soil is hard and there are root systems to navigate. You’re more likely to individually plant them. An auger drill attachment can help, though you should make the hole as small as possible.

It should be noted that the success rate may be lower as the bulbs are competing with these large root systems for nutrients. You can read about my experience planting on my sidewalk strip under oak trees in this post.

How do I stop squirrels from digging up my bulbs?

Squirrels and other small mammals are attracted to the fresh soil after you’ve planted a bulb. You want to try to cover up any indication of fresh soil. Mulch can help hide this.

You also want to remove anything that may be attracting them to the area, such as garbage, compost, or bird feeders.

If you’re really concerned, you can place a hard wire over the top of the bulbs.

Personally, I plant with the knowledge that some of my bulbs may be dug up. It seems only fair they get a few bulbs too!

Is it better to plant flower bulbs earlier or later in the fall?

Earlier is usually better, but it depends on your climate. The planting should be done before the hard frost to allow the bulb to establish a root system. However, if you’re experiencing a warm fall, you may want to wait later to avoid hot conditions.

Should I fertilize flower bulbs?

I don’t fertilize much in my garden, as I work hard to feed my soil by adding layers of compost and leaf mulch every year. Only if you have poor soil conditions, you may want to fertilize. This is especially helpful if you have perennial bulbs and want them to bloom prolifically the following year. Fertilize after the bulbs have finished flowering in the spring.

Fall Bulb Giveaway!

I’m thrilled to partner with Flowerbulb.eu to give $100 worth of fall bulbs to one lucky Garden Therapy reader.

To enter, leave a comment on this post letting me know what fall bulbs you want to plant in your garden this year.

Contest is open to U.S. residents only and runs until October 3, 11:59 PM. The winner will be chosen using a random number generator. Good luck!!

That rounds up all of my fall bulb tips and guides! If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below or check out Flowerbulb.eu for more helpful information about planting bulbs.

More Fall Bulb Planting Tips

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

September 26, 2025
Hardy Fall Bulbs to Plant For Long Lasting Spring Colour

[ad_1]

To get those beautiful, spring flowers, you have to put in a little bit of work now. Plan ahead and plant these hardy fall bulbs before the ground freezes. They’ll cozy up for the winter and emerge at the first sign of spring!

I often find myself wandering around my garden in spring, immensely enjoying the brightly coloured blooms popping up everywhere, even through snow-covered, frosty ground. It’s during those times that I reap the benefit of taking the time the previous year to plant hardy fall bulbs that chill out for the winter and delight in the spring.

Bulbs are identified by the season they are planted, not that in which they grow, so with hardy fall bulbs, it is important to think ahead to what the garden will look like in future seasons and find the right space, colour, height and number to create the design you desire.

These are some true hardy bulbs, meant to be planted in the fall to bloom in the spring. They don’t mind the cold and will brighten things up after a long winter.

You can find bulbs at garden centres or hardware stores, as well as online.

USDA zones: 3-8

The butterfly of flowers, the tulip is decorative and delicate, with as much variety in appearance as the gardeners who plant them. Small or tall, early or late blooming, ruffled or smooth, multicoloured or striped, the tulip is the perfect showpiece for almost any garden.

The hardest thing about growing tulips is how to choose which ones. Check out these other posts on how to plant perennial tulips or growing tulips for a cutting garden.

Tulips can be perennials or annuals. Make sure you know which you’re buying!

Crocuses

USDA zones: 3-9

One of the first fall bulbs braving the frozen soil, the crocus offers a taste of what’s to come while still covered in winter’s frost. Generally, crocuses range from purple and yellow, but blues, whites, and oranges can also be found.

The shorties are best in the front of flower beds, but I absolutely love crocuses livening up the ground under a deciduous (as they bloom before the leaves grow), or wildly dotted through a green lawn.

Crocus flowers are one of the first to emerge while it’s still frosty.

Narcissus

USDA zones: 3-8

Bearing the same name as the Greek God who fell in love with his own reflection, the Narcissus is a true symbol of beauty. Many may be familiar with the standard yellow Daffodil (a common English name), but the genus also includes a variety of 50 to 100 frilly gems in yellow, white, orange, and everything in between.

Narcissus have many specialty varieties outside the standard yellow daffodil.

Alliums

USDA zones: 3-9

Alliums are in the same family as the onion, yet the decorative varieties don’t have edible bulbs. What they do have is fascinating blooms with structures that decorate the garden long after the flower has faded. While there are over 750 species, some are wild, some are edible, and a few are absolute showstoppers in a garden. Read more All About Alliums.

Alliums leave behind decorative seed heads.

Anemones

USDA zones: 7-10

If you fondly remember picking buttercups as a child, you’ll adore the grown-up version, Anemones, meaning “daughter of the wind” in Greek. These delicate, low-growing blooms will surely perk up the front border with rich colour and what seems to be an all-knowing eye dramatically darkening the center.

Anemones most often come in jewel tones.

More Bulbs to Love

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

September 24, 2025
How to Plant Fall Bulbs for Long-Lasting Spring Colour – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
The spring garden is a joyous sight full of colour and happy blooms, many of which come from bulbs (or corms and tubers) that are planted in the fall. Spring gardening may be the last thing on your mind while you are busily tending to autumn chores, but take a bit of time to plant some fall bulbs, and I know you will be thanking me next year for this little reminder!

Anemone photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu

Fall bulbs are also known as spring-flowering bulbs. The two terms are used interchangeably, and both are technically correct as the bulbs are available for sale and planted in the fall, but they flower in the spring.

There are also a number of lovely bulbs you plant in the spring for summer blooms. These would be most accurately called summer flowering bulbs, as it could be too confusing to call them spring bulbs.

No matter what you call them, they make wonderful garden decoration and cut flowers to bring inside the house. They are easy to plant, and if they are happy in the spot you’ve put them in, they will come back year after year (in most cases).

Really, what’s not to love?

The only caveat is that you need to REMEMBER to plant them in the fall because they require a period of cold temperatures to stimulate root development. I think that’s why I’ve always heard them called “fall bulbs;” from the messaging that is out there reminding us gardeners to get planting the bulbs that will grow our spring flowers.

Let me show you how to plant them!

Is the bulb already starting to bloom? It’s ready to go in the soil!

What’s in a Name? Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

Flower “bulb” is the commonly used term for a swollen underground plant part, such as a true bulb, corm, or tuber. While it’s not unusual to group these types of plants together because they share similar planting and storage characteristics, it can be helpful to know the difference when cultivating the different types of plants.

Flowerbulb.eu helps to clarify more for us, “Technically speaking, many popular ‘bulb” flowers are not produced from true flower bulbs at all. Crocuses and gladioli, for example, are really corms, while such favourites as dahlias and begonias are really tubers. The main distinguishing trait is their method of storing food. In corms, most of the food is stored in an enlarged basal plate rather than the fleshy scales, which in corms are much smaller.”

Tulips are true bulbs.

Planting and Caring for Fall Bulbs

This guide will cover when to plant spring-flowering bulbs, how to plant them, watering needs, overwintering, and designing your bulb garden.

Tulips can be perennials or annuals, depending on what kind you buy,

When to Plant Spring Flowering Fall Bulbs

Spring-flowering bulbs get planted sometime in the fall, but the timing varies for each type of flower. As a general rule, plant them as early in the fall as you can so that the bulbs have a chance to develop a strong root system. At the very latest, they must go into the ground before the last frost.

If you’re buying your bulbs from a mail-order company, they won’t ship them out until the ideal planting time for your area, so the work is usually done for you.

If you are purchasing bulbs from a garden centre, they will often stock them a bit earlier than the ideal planting date and continue selling them until they are sold out, possibly long after frost. Be sure to thoroughly read the instructions and timing for planting the individual bulbs to get the best results.

It’s best to plant bulbs as soon as they arrive in the mail or you pick them up at the garden center. If you have to delay planting for some reason, then store them in a dry, cool location, out of direct sunlight, where temperatures are between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Bulbs need to go in the ground before the first frost.

How to Plant Bulbs

Your bulbs should come with full instructions for how to plant them, but for some general guidelines, here are some professional planting tips from FlowerBulbs.com.

SPONSORED CONTENT: The following excerpt is reprinted with permission, and some of the photos in this post are courtesy of FlowerBulbs.com, a fantastic source of information on flower bulbs.

“Most spring-flowering Dutch flower bulbs will thrive in either full or partial sun, but will do just fine in almost any location that offers good drainage. Flower bulbs will rot in standing water, so avoid areas prone to flooding, such as at the bottom of slopes or under drainage pipes.

After choosing the site:
- Dig either a trench for a bed planting or individual holes for individual flower bulbs or a small cluster of flower bulbs. To determine how deep to plant, consider the diameter or size of the flower bulb. Large flower bulbs (2 inches across or more) are usually planted about 6 inches deep; smaller-sized flower bulbs (1 inch) are planted 3-4 inches deep.
- Loosen the soil with a rake to aerate it and also remove any weeds and small stones. Mix in a bit of compost to improve soil drainage. Place, do not push, bulbs firmly in the soil with the pointed side up. Space large bulbs 3-8 inches apart and small bulbs 1-3 inches apart. (If you’re not sure which end is right side up, don’t worry. Upside-down flower bulbs usually come up anyway!)
- Cover the flower bulbs with soil and then water generously if the soil is not yet moist. Add 2-3 inches of mulch on top of the garden bed. This will provide added protection from the cold and keep the soil from drying out.”
A power planter can help speed up individual bulb plantings.

Designing With Spring Flowering Bulbs

Now, let’s look at how to design with bulbs in the garden.

Note: spring-flowering bulbs are also wonderful when planted in pots. Get some inspiration and read more on How to Plant and Overwinter Spring-Flowering Bulbs in Pots.

Just as there are many garden styles, there are many different ways of planting bulbs in your garden. They can be scattered throughout the beds, popping up between perennials and shrubs. They can create a decorative border lining a walkway or framing evergreen garden features. Or they can be layered so that you have intentional waves of blooms producing consistently over many months.

Scattering Bulbs Throughout the Garden

Spring-flowering bulbs are the perfect way to add some lively colour to a garden filled with perennials, shrubs, and trees that are dormant in the winter. While the perennials and shrubs are beginning to set out new shoots and leaves, strategically-placed bulbs fill in the spaces.

Choose bulbs that bloom at the times when your perennial trees and shrubs are dormant. Then plant them in groups of five to seven around the roots of the dormant plants.

To allow the bulbs to naturalize with the existing plants, be sure to plant in the loose soil near the plants and mark the spot so you don’t accidentally dig the bulbs up when dividing the perennials.

Some spring bulbs bloom before the trees and shrubs above them leaf out, meaning they get more sunlight than you might think. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.

Planting Bulbs in a Border

A border of fall bulbs is a lovely way to line a walkway or the front of a garden bed. The placement of these bulbs is the opposite of planting them above the roots of perennials and shrubs. Instead, you will plant these deeper in the soil and add annuals above them to fill in those months when they are not blooming.

These bulbs are planted in the fall, at which time you can plant fall annuals in the soil above. In the spring, the bulbs will bloom, and when they die back, the soil above can be planted again with summer annuals.

Plant fall annuals at the same time so you don’t accidentally dig up your bulbs. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.

Layering Bulbs

Layering fall bulbs refers to planting different types of flower bulbs at different depths in the soil to stagger the bloom times and increase the number of flowers that you can get in a small space. Many refer to this as planting flower bulb lasagna.

To layer fall bulbs, select a combination of bulbs that will do well in similar conditions, but that have different bloom times, heights, and decorative features like colour.

Plant the bulbs at the recommended planting depth, which will usually be planting larger bulbs into the ground around 6 to 8 inches deep, medium bulbs above them at 3 to 5 inches deep, and the smallest in the top 1 to 2 in of soil.

Get detailed instructions, photos, and a DIY soil recipe in this post on Preparing Fall Bulb Planters for Spring.

Layering bulbs works really well in containers. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.

Overwintering Fall Bulbs

Spring-flowering fall bulbs will not only tolerate cool winter soil, but they need it in order to thrive. Many bulbs are tolerant of many different soil types as well, as much as what they need to grow is stored in the bulb. The biggest question that many people have about overwintering bulbs is whether to water them or not.

The answer is, “not really.”

Newly planted bulbs should be watered in the fall in an area that drains well. As the season cools, they do not need to be watered, but also don’t need to be protected from rain or snow as long as the bulbs you are choosing are suitable to plant in your climate and hardiness zone.

As long as the soil is free-draining and they aren’t left sitting in standing water, they will be happily dormant until the spring. In spring, watering is only necessary if the soil is dry.

Many bulbs are built to withstand the snow and cold, needing it to thrive.

Hopefully you now have everything you need to get out there and plant some fall bulbs! If you still have questions like, “do they need to be lifted out of the garden after blooming?” or “will deadheading increase blooms?” Flowerbulbs.com has some great answers to common questions about bulbs in their FAQ section.

But Wait! There are More Bulbs to Love!

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
September 15, 2025
Planting Crocus Flowers: The Spring Bloom Everyone Must Grow – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

As the first herald of spring, crocus flowers provide a pop of colour and joy just when we think winter will go on forever. The sleepy bees flock to them as spring food, as the crocus soak in the crisp sunlight. Crocuses are super simple to grow and care for, and the time to plant them is NOW!

Crocuses are beloved by many simply because they’re the first spring flower to emerge, even in the coldest of climates. They’re pure joy!

Crocus flowers grow from bulb-like corms, producing flowers for years on end. They multiply on their own, creating waves of small purple and yellow flowers throughout lawns and garden beds.

I’ve planted crocus corms many times, most recently as a sidewalk project at my previous rental house and in my lawn bulb mixture at my current house. The work of planting in the fall is well worth it come springtime!

Here’s what you need to know about crocus flowers, including when, where, and how to plant them, as well as care and naturalizing tips.

This post will cover…

Crocus flowers enjoy full sunlight conditions.

Autumn vs. Spring Crocus

Everyone loves the spring crocus, as the first flower to emerge after a cold winter. We cherish the small blooms and know that soon, more flowers will begin to awake.

But did you know there are also autumn crocus? While also a showstopper and beautiful flower, they don’t get nearly as much praise simply because they bloom in the fall when we aren’t lacking other flowers.

While both spring and autumn crocus are called crocus, they’re actually not related! Let me introduce you to both.

Crocus flowers and snowdrops are some of the first blooms of spring.

Autumn Crocus

As the name would suggest, autumn crocus bloom in early fall as opposed to spring. Autumn crocus refers to a variety of hybrids in the Colchicum genus, which belongs to the lily family. The Colchicum autumnale is the most common autumn crocus, which boasts light pink-purple and sometimes white flowers.

They’ve earned the nickname of ‘naked ladies’ since they bloom with no leaves, producing 1 to 10 flower stalks per corm. The leaves grow in the spring and go dormant in the early summer, but must be left alone to help fuel the corms for their fall bloom.

The corms should be planted by mid-summer to ensure a fall bloom, though they naturalize and will return year after year. The weird timing of planting these corms means they’re often forgotten about.

Autumn crocuses are hardy to zones 5-9. The corms are toxic to humans and animals.

Saffron Crocus

Another species is the saffron crocus, Crocus sativus, which is also called the autumn crocus by some. Of course, this is the flower that produces the highly prized saffron spice. It is also a fall-flowering plant.

Spring Crocus

The spring crocus is what most people are familiar with, and the one that people cherish the most when temperatures are still too cool for other flowers. They can bloom from January to April, depending on how harsh your winter is.

The spring crocus belongs to the iris family, with over 80 crocus species in Crocus spp. They bloom in many colours, including purple, yellow, orange, pink, white, and even blue. However, purple and yellow are the most common ones I see.

They also grow from a corm and naturalize in the garden. Spring crocuses are hardy from zones 3-8.

The remainder of this guide will focus on spring crocus, since that’s what most people are interested in growing. But it’s important that you know there is an autumn crocus, so you don’t get them mixed up.

Buy a mixed pack to get a variety of colours and patterns.

Planting Spring Crocus

Since crocuses are smaller flowers, they look best planted en masse. Think 100-150 corms minimum! Larger corms produce more flowers, so keep this in mind when purchasing crocus corms.

While you can plant crocus from seed, it can be difficult and take years for the plant to produce flowers. So almost everyone buys and plants the corms.

Spring crocus should be planted in early fall, ideally eight weeks before the first frost.

Crocuses need well-drained soil so the corm doesn’t rot. Choose a location that receives full sun. Avoid planting in shade, though they can tolerate partial shade if necessary.

But since crocuses are early bloomers, larger trees and shrubs haven’t leafed out yet to block sunlight, making areas that are typically shaded still a great location option.

Plant crocus corms with the pointy end up. They should be planted four inches deep to the top of the corm, approximately two inches apart. Plant them in clusters, grabbing a handful at a time.

Water after planting if there is no natural moisture. Snow cover is usually good and all you need. You want to avoid overwatering, so you don’t rot the corm

Pro tip: Try layering crocus with other bulbs, including hyacinth, tulips, and daffodils. Since they don’t have lots of foliage and flower early on, they’re done by the time the other bulbs are ready. Plant the corms according to the depth specified on the packaging, with the crocus on top.

Crocus corms should be planted with the pointy tip facing upward.

Caring for Crocus Flowers

Crocus need very little care once they have been planted. Ideally, you just need to leave them alone!

Crocus require 12-15 weeks of cold temperatures, so they need to grow in cold places.

Do not cut the flowers for six weeks after the flowering period. Ideally, the foliage should be fully yellow before you remove it, as the foliage will charge the corm for next year.

Once cut, leave the corms alone. They prefer dry soil in the summer. They may need water if it’s been a very dry winter and there’s no snow cover, but they’re usually okay without any supplemental watering.

Fertilizer is usually not necessary. I add layers of compost and leaf mulch to all my garden beds, and that’s all my perennial plants typically need.

Crocus flowers will only open when there is sun. They will close at night and in rainy weather.

Naturalizing Crocus in Lawns

Crocus flowers are one of the best “bulbs” to use for naturalizing, especially in lawns. This means they will naturally propagate and spread themselves. As the plant gets older, it will produce offshoots around the main corm. Baby corms will grow in clusters around the main corm.

If going for a naturalized lawn look, you’ll want to scatter them by grabbing handfuls and planting them where they fall. To really get an amazing display in the spring, you’ll want 125-150 corms for every square meter.

After 3-5 years, flowering may decrease. This means your crocuses have crowded themselves out. You may need to gently dig them up with a spade and separate the baby corms from the main corm. Move the baby corms, spreading them out. Divide crocus right after they’ve finished flowering, so you know where the corms are.

A lawn full of naturalized crocus flowers. Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu.

FAQ About Crocus Flowers

How do I stop squirrels from digging up my crocus corms?

Small mammals like squirrels, rabbits, mice, and gophers like to munch on crocus corms, especially after planting. They’re drawn to the freshly dug soil, so adding some mulch or leaves on top can help to hide it. You can also protect newly planted corms by covering them with hardware cloth (works better than chicken wire).

My philosophy? Squirrels are going to eat some of the corms, and that’s okay. I plant knowing that not all of them are going to make it.

When do crocuses bloom?

Spring crocus bloom in late winter and early spring, anywhere from January to April, depending on how harsh your winter is. Autumnal crocus flowers in early fall, including the saffron crocus.

When to plant crocuses?

Spring-blooming crocus should be planted in early fall, ideally 8 weeks before the first frost. For autumn crocus, you want to plant them by mid-summer for fall blooms.

Purple crocus and seedum. Can you spot the bee?

More Tips for Planting Fall Bulbs

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

September 10, 2025
From Clove to Crop: Growing Your Own Garlic Plant

[ad_1]

If there’s one ingredient that’s universally used in kitchens everywhere, it’s garlic! Why not start growing your own right at home? Growing garlic is simple, and while it takes a bit of time, the results are well worth it. Here’s how to grow a garlic plant from a bulb both outside and indoors, with no vampires slaying necessary.

It’s not quite Halloween, but now’s the perfect time to think about naturally vampire-proofing your garden…with garlic! Planting garlic around the perimeter will protect your veggie beds from getting trampled by nighttime intruders who vant to suck your bloooood. Follow along to learn how to grow garlic out in the garden and even indoors.

This post will cover…

I grew Italian Soft Neck, Persian Star, and Yugoslavian Certified Organic garlic from West Coast Seeds.

When to Plant Garlic

In all seriousness, it’s a good reminder to plant garlic when you start thinking about Halloween. At least, that’s the case here in Vancouver where the best month to plant garlic occurs between mid-October and mid-November.

If you live elsewhere, a good rule of thumb is that garlic should be planted between three and six weeks before the ground freezes. This ensures that there is enough time for the roots to develop. The moisture and cold of the soil will wake the bulb from dormancy and start this process.

After that, growth is slow and a thick skin (figuratively) is necessary to make it through the winter. Next spring, the leaves will sprout and grow until harvest time next summer. Garlic can soon be a part of your summer harvest. You’ll be cooking with garlic scapes before you know it.

How to Plant Garlic from a Clove

Yes, all you need is one little clove to get started! Here’s how you can start your garlic plant using a clove or split a whole bulb for multiple plants.

Choose Your Bulbs

When planting garlic in your garden, it’s best to use heads grown specifically for planting. Unfortunately, garlic bulbs purchased from the grocery store can carry disease or be treated with chemicals. Both of these can be difficult to remove from your soil once planted.

Instead, buy the heads from a reliable source like a seed company or farmer’s market vendor that you trust. I also do this when saving heirloom tomato seeds.

I grew Italian Soft Neck, Persian Star, and Yugoslavian Certified Organic garlic from West Coast Seeds.

You can also use garlic purchased locally from a farmer’s market.

Site Selection

Garlic plants like a sunny location and need only enough room for the bulbs to reach full size. Space plants around 6” apart, and they should have enough room. Space them a bit farther apart for large bulbs and closer together for smaller ones.

Garlic is perfectly situated when planted at the back of a border or vegetable garden. When selecting a location, keep in mind that the bulbs won’t be fully matured and ready for harvest until summer.

Soil Preparation

Get the soil ready for planting by mixing in some yummy compost, then covering it with a layer of good quality topsoil. Garlic plants will do well in loose, nutrient-rich soil with good drainage. I mixed in my own compost and topped it off with some fresh soil.

I mix in my homemade compost, but you can also purchase compost to mix in.

Planting Garlic

Break apart your garlic head into cloves just before planting. This ensures that the nodes at the bottom don’t dry out and can set roots quickly.

Each glove will turn into its own garlic plant.

Each clove will have a pointy end where the stem and leaves will grow from and a wider, flat part on the bottom. This bottom part is where the roots will form.

Plant the garlic so the pointy end faces up.

Dig a hole and plant the clove tip-side up so that the tip is 2” below the surface.

Garlic should be planted 2 inches deep.

Cover with soil and mulch to conserve moisture and nutrients over winter. A good mulch for the winter is a layer of leaves covered by a layer of cardboard. Just don’t forget to remove the cardboard in early spring so the leaves and stems can grow up through the soil.

This is how closely I planted my garlic.

After planting, I covered my garlic with a layer of leaf mulch and cardboard.

When to Harvest Garlic

Garlic plants take around 7-8 months to grow, so they are ready to harvest in the summer after a fall planting.

You know the garlic is ready when the greens on top begin to brown, and the flower stem feels soft. Stop watering the garlic for about a week until the soil has dried out, making it easy to remove your garlic.

To make sure your garlic stores well, you will want to cure it. To do so, hang it in a cool and well-ventilated location for a couple of weeks. You’ll know it is finished curing when the plant is completely dry to the touch and has that outer papery layer on the bulb.

Keep some of the largest bulbs to replant in the garden for the fall for an endless supply of garlic. Alternatively, you can also grow your garlic as a perennial. Leave the bulb in the ground for a few years rather than harvesting it. After 2-3 years, you will see a patch of garlic shoots.

Eventually, they will progress into garlic scapes. You can also divide the plant and then harvest the bulbs just like I just talked about!

How to Grow Garlic Indoors

If you don’t have access to a garden or don’t want to wait until next summer to enjoy your garlic, you can learn how to grow garlic in pots. In this case, you can grow garlic greens, and you may even get some bulbs, too.

If you want to grow bulbs, you will need to refrigerate the garlic for at least 40 days to give them that cold burst. You can skip this step if you’re just looking for greens.

To grow your garlic plant, you will need to break up the cloves just like you would for the garden. The biggest clove will give you the best plant!

Since it has shallow roots, you only need a pot anywhere from 6-12” deep. Make sure to choose one that has drainage holes! Use an indoor potting mix and plant with the pointy side up 2” under the surface.

You can use a liquid fertilizer to help speed up the process, applying it every two weeks. Place the garlic in a sunny spot in the house where it can get full sun if possible. Avoid overwatering as it can rot the bulbs.

After a week, you will see the shoots emerge. 2-3 weeks later, the leaves will be ready to harvest. If you want to grow bulbs, leave the leaves to help produce energy for the growing bulbs. The bulb will take a few months to grow, ready when around half of the leaves have turned brown.

How to Grow Garlic in Water

How easy is it to just plunk some garlic in water and call it a day? If you have garlic greens in mind, you don’t even need to plant your garlic cloves. Softneck garlic is the easiest for growing garlic greens, including Korean Red, German Red, Spanish Roja, and Duganski.

To sprout your clove, wrap it in a damp paper towel and place it in a warm spot. After about two days, it should sprout. Move the clove to a clear container and let it sit with the shoot upwards. A shot glass is an ideal size for a single clove. Fill the glass with water so that it covers a little less than half of the clove.

Once again, place it on a sunny window sill and replenish the water as needed. After about a week, you can begin to harvest the greens when they are 4-7 inches tall. Snip off the top third for the best taste. Enjoy your garlic greens just as you would green onions, with a slight garlic taste.

Frequently Asked Questions About Garlic Plants

When do you plant garlic?

Garlic is typically planted between mid-October and mid-November. When I see the Halloween decorations go up, I know it’s time to start planting garlic.

Depending on where you live, this timing can change. Ideally, it needs to be planted 3-6 weeks before the ground freezes. This allows the bulb to develop roots before winter strikes.

Can you plant garlic in the spring?

Garlic takes 7-8 months to grow. This is why planting in the fall is ideal for harvesting in the summer. However, you can plant it in the spring as long as you get it in the ground as soon as possible. Garlic planted in the spring won’t get as big as those planted in the fall since it doesn’t have that early jump start. The harvest will be ready in late summer to early fall.

More About Garlic

Next summer, your garlic will be in full swing and ready to be harvested. You can first cut the scapes and use them in recipes, then harvest the bulbs and dry them. Bookmark these posts in the meantime:

A city girl who learned to garden and it changed everything. Author, artist, Master Gardener. Better living through plants.

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

August 16, 2025
All About Alliums! Growing Ornamental and Edible Alliums – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
Alliums are wonderful, unique-looking plants that come in a ton of different varieties. Their vibrant round purple flower heads stand out in the garden, and their seed heads make a stunning display. Plant them as bulbs this fall, and enjoy them next spring!

Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

Alliums are everywhere in the garden. Some are a tasty addition to your favourite recipe (garlic, onions), some decorate the garden (ornamental alliums), and some are just plain weird (Egyptian walking onions). No matter how you use them, alliums are the perfect plant to pretty up your garden.

Alliums are members of the onion family. Garlic, chives, and onions are all harvested for their tasty and fragrant leaves and bulbs, but many gardeners also grow them because of their attractive flower heads.

Chives are often grown throughout the garden because of their purple pompom flowers that look decorative in the garden bed. Even better, onions and garlic are unappealing to garden pests like rodents, deer, and many insects. These easy-care plants don’t have a lot of natural pests, making them even more attractive to gardeners.

There’s a lot to know about alliums, so let’s dive into it!

Sponsored content: thank you to flowerbulbs.com for providing some of the lovely photos for this post! Flowerbulbs.com is an extremely helpful resource for learning about new flower bulbs and helps to support European bulb growers.

Growing Ornamental Alliums

There are other members of the allium family that don’t have the flavour but do have decorative bursts of flowers above a thin stock. Ornamental onions are prized in the garden for their interesting round purple flower heads, their attractiveness to bees and other pollinators, and, especially, for their dried seed heads.

Check the cultivars sold in your area; there are some for Zones 3 to 9. Allium plants aren’t picky about soil but they do love the sun!

Grow alliums from bulbs.

Alliums range in colour from shades of blue, purple, white, and yellow. The flower heads are usually round but can be drumstick-shaped perfect-globe round, or even a nodding crown.

Typically, the flower heads themselves won’t smell much like onion, but the foliage might. Even then, you have to crush it to get that fragrant smell. You may notice it when working alongside your allium flowers when disturbing the leaves.

The size of the blooms is also what makes them quite special. They can range from one foot tall to up to six feet tall. Some of the shorties aren’t necessarily teeny tiny flowers, either.

One of my very favourite ones is A. schubertii, which grows only about one to three feet tall and is mostly a huge 18” diameter explosion of flowers. The dried seed head makes for an amazing sculpture to use in your home decor. You can expect to see your allium flower blooms in late spring or early summer.

Planting Allium Flowers

Alliums are usually planted from bulbs. They are planted in early autumn, normally quite deep in the ground, from two to four inches.

It’s best to cluster bulbs together, with groupings of 12 to 25 small or 3-6 large looking the most attractive in the garden. You don’t need to worry about any kind of prep to the bulbs before planting, such as soaking. Once planted, give them a thorough watering after they’re in the ground.

Of course, you can always plant a set of three into containers or in between other plantings. They look most impressive grouped together like a wave of fireworks celebrating above the garden.

Plant your allium bulbs in the fall and they will bloom in the spring.

The foliage of allium plants isn’t that impressive and when the blooms die back it can look quite messy. They do best when planted in between a bunch of low-growing perennials with dense and interesting foliage to hide and distract from this.

Allium in the stage between blooming and setting seed.

Allium Plant Seeds

Allium plants produce seeds that can be saved and sown in the garden; however, it will take several years for the plant to flower. By planting bulbs in the fall, you’ll have flowers the very next summer.

Let alliums dry fully and the seed heads will open.

Some alliums produce bulbs on their heads after the flowers have faded. The Egyptian walking onion (A. × proliferum) is a great example of this. After the flower is finished they form small bulbs (called aerial bulbils) that get quite heavy on the top of the thin stock.

The Egyptian walking onion then flops over and plants itself on the ground beside the mother plant, essentially walking around the garden. These bulbs can also be harvested and eaten.

Treat the grouping of bulbs like a perennial clump and divide them when the clump becomes overcrowded. In my experience, allium plants only flower for a few years, so I do end up buying a few new bulbs every year or two to replenish the planting.

Harvesting Seed Heads

After your alliums have finished flowering, you can deadhead them if that’s what you prefer. Wait until the allium flower heads have lost all colour and have turned a yellow to brown. Simply snip off the whole stalk right to the ground and leave them as is. The bulb will remain dormant for the rest of the year and rest up until next spring.

But, if you’re like me, you can also leave them as is after they have finished flowering! The seed heads themselves are gorgeous and add a different kind of texture to the garden.

Alliums after they’ve finished flowering.

Give it a try, and leave the decorative seed heads in the garden. They lose the purple colour but they have a sculpture, globe-like appeal.

They can be harvested to use for crafts and flower arrangements as well. If you’d like to use them for arrangements, try to keep the stems as long as possible. The seed heads will last well in any arrangement without any need for sealer.

The stem becomes woody and will be beautiful for years if kept indoors. Left unprotected outdoors, they will break down over the season. However, you can paint them to add colour and protection if you want to leave them outdoors.

Fully dried allium seed head.

7 Types of Ornamental Alliums to Grow

Here are a few of my favourite allium varieties to grow in the garden. Whether you want to eat them or just enjoy their decorative look, there are sure to be a few varieties that appeal to you.

Many alliums grow tall and big. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

Drumstick

Drumstick allium (A. sphaerocephalon) has an oblong, burgundy flower that reaches two feet high but is only one to two inches in diameter. They change from green to wine colour, looking decorative in the garden at all stages. Plant at least 25 of these small bulbs among perennial plants such as Hosta, Alchemilla or among ornamental grasses.
- Flowering period: May – June
- Average plant height: 24 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
- Light requirements: full sun
Drumstick allium

A. giganteum “Globemaster”

A. giganteum, or ‘Globemaster,’ has huge 8” diameter round heads containing over 100 flowers on 4-foot tall stems. These are truly impressive onions! The foliage withers quickly as the plant blooms, so they are best towering over the back of a sunny border.
- Flowering period: May – June
- Average plant height: 68 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 12 inches
- Light requirements: full sun
Globemaster allium. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

A. shubertii

A. shubertii, also known as Tumbleweed Onion, have short stalks but a flower head that looks like a fireworks display and produces a stunning seed head sculpture.
- Flowering period: May – June
- Average plant height: 16-20 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Tumbleweed onion.

A. christophii

A profusely flowering allium species, its gray-green leaves remain attractive for a fairly long period. It is absolutely perfect for naturalizing in lightly shaded locations and in soil that remains sufficiently moist.
- Flowering period: May – June
- Average plant height: 12 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Allium christophii. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

A. ‘hair’

Allium ‘hair’ is a weird and wonderful plant with green tentacle-like flowers. Some people call them aliens or Dr. Seuss plants, but they remind me of the Muppets!
- Flowering period: April – June
- Average plant height: 24 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 2 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 2 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Allium ‘hair’. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

A. oreophilum

A. oreophilum is a delicate yet brilliantly coloured flower that naturalizes easily.
- Flowering period: May – June
- average plant height: 8 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Light requirements: full sun
Allium oreophilum. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

A. karataviense

A. karataviense is the ‘Ivory Queen.’ Very striking with dense, purple-gray flower colour, and spotted leaves. Ivory Queen has a wonderful scent, and it is the best variety for container gardens.
- Flowering period: May – June
- Average plant height: 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 6 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 8 inches
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
Allium ‘Ivory Queen.’ Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

A Few Edible Beauties

Nodding onions (Allium cernuum) have delicate crowns of flowers that hang upside down or nod when in bloom.

Garden chives.

Garden chives (Allium schoenoprasum). Yes, that’s right, I have chives on this list because they are ornamental, hardy, edible, and great natural pest control! Plant clumps of chives all over your garden and pests will be sent packing while the bees feast (and you can too).

Alliums FAQ

Is allium garlic or onion?

Both! Garlic and onions both belong to the Allium genus, which comprises more than 500 species, including other popular vegetables like shallots, chives, leeks, and scallions.

Do alliums spread on their own?

Many alliums will set seed and could spread, but it takes a few years for those plants to flower. Meanwhile, some varieties won’t spread at all. If you want alliums that spread, look for the word naturalizing when purchasing allium bulbs.

What not to plant with alliums?

Alliums are a wonderful companion plant, often deterring pests from your other nearby vegetables when planted close by. However, they shouldn’t be planted next to most plants in the legume family, including beans and peas. Also, keep them away from asparagus and sage.

More Flowering Bulbs to Plant in Fall
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
October 29, 2024
Growing Tulips for a Cutting Garden – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
With their iconic shape and eye-catching colour varieties, tulips just might be my favourite spring flower—both in the ground and in a vase! It’s no wonder they’re one of the most popular cut flowers, and they’re surprisingly easy to grow. The only catch is that these bulbs should be planted in the fall, so let’s get into my advice for growing cutting tulips.

What do most people love about the tulips? You plant the bulbs once and forget about it. They return year after year, giving you a much-needed burst of colour after a snowy (or, in my case, grey) winter.

I hate to burst the tulip bubble, but that’s not always the case. Yes, there is such a thing as perennial vs annual tulips.

Many people plant tulips with the intention that they’ll come back each year, but this is a misconception, as the majority of tulips we plant are annuals.

Once they bloom, they generally don’t propagate very well unless you’re a tulip farmer, backyard farmer, or just a really darn good tulip gardener. This takes careful work to get them to grow back. For the majority of us, you won’t have tulips that naturalize very easily.

So here’s what you can do. Plant whatever tulips you wish, but plant them as cut flowers.

The price of tulip bulbs is very similar to that of other annuals you might find at the garden centre, yet we’re A-okay with saying goodbye to those plants at the end of the year. Why not our tulip bulbs, too?

This releases the expectation that they’ll return year after year. You can plant them once, cut them in the spring, and put them in the vase. Next fall, you do it all over again.

With that said, I thought now would be the perfect time to share some tips for growing tulips for a cutting garden so that you can look forward to some beautiful floral arrangements next year.

Sponsored: I’m thrilled that this post has been sponsored by Flowerbulb.eu. They’re an amazing resource for all things bulbs and graciously supported the planting of my bulb lawn last year and the tulip cutting garden this year. Be sure to check them out for more growing information on spring and summer flowering bulbs.

Unpackage all your tulips first to make planting easier.

Perennial vs Annual Tulips

I’ve written quite a bit about both perennial and annual tulips. Perennials will naturalize in your garden and are great for a low-maintenance garden. But they don’t usually have as big of a “wow factor” as annuals.

Annual tulips are bred specifically for looks. They come in the showiest colours and textures, which means they’re perfect for cutting. You can choose exactly the look you’re going for, and their colours tend to be bolder than their perennial counterparts.

If you do decide to go for perennial tulips instead, you may also need to adjust your expectations. While you can certainly cut perennial tulips, just know that they may not return as easily the next year. Make sure to leave the leaves behind so the bulb can recharge and get enough energy to return the following year.

And hey, you can plant tulips expecting them for one year. Then, who knows, you might get lucky and see them return for the following year. Just try to release the expectation that your tulips will return each year to lessen the disappointment when they don’t return and triple the joy if they do!

Annual tulips have been bred to be showy, and for long, sturdy cutting stems.

My Tulip Garden Design

This fall, I planted my tulip cutting garden in front of my herbs, so it sits between my front containers and dry river, and amongst my wildflower lawn.

I included tulips in my bulb lawn last year, and I ended up cutting a ton of them to bring indoors. So, I’m excited to set aside a part of my garden specifically for cutting tulips this year.

To add to my bulb lawn, I planted 250 tulips with my power planter. I wanted to make sure that I’ll have a few different flowers to work with when I eventually harvest my tulips, so I planted a few varieties. I went with ‘Blue Diamond’ double late tulips, as well as assorted double lates, triumph, fringed, and species tulips.

To add even more variety and colour, I dotted some crocus flowers throughout the lawn in this area. I also pulled out any buttercup weed that was creating patches and made sure to fill in any bare areas with the tulip bulbs.

My front lawn with my containers, dry river, and wildflower lawn where I planted my tulips.

Planting Cutting Tulips

I usually get my tulips in the ground by mid-October, so now is the perfect time to start planting. If you can, choose a sunny spot in your garden, although tulips aren’t too picky and can handle some shade as well.

After pulling some weeds, I had the perfect loose soil ready for planting tulips.

Once you’ve chosen a spot, you can start placing your bulbs in loose soil with the roots down and the pointy end facing up. A power planter will come in handy here, as tulips need to be planted fairly deep if you want their stems to be strong. Two to three times the height of the bulb is a general rule of thumb.

If you’re planting many bulbs but spaced out, a power planter will really help speed things up.

The nice thing about growing tulips for cutting purposes is that they can be placed quite close together.

Once you have the bulbs deep in the ground (two to three times the height of the bulb), you can spread a layer of mulch over them and give them a good watering. After this, they won’t need any more water or fertilizer until they sprout in the spring (unless you have a prolonged period of drought.

Here are some of the tulips I planted last year.

Continental (Dark Burgundy)

Sunny Prince

Purple Prince

Couleur Cardinal

Harvesting Your Tulips

Once your tulips have opened slightly and some colour is showing on the outside, it’s time for the exciting part—cutting your beautiful tulips so you can bring them inside!

To get the longest vase life possible, you want to make sure you’re cutting them at the right time. Don’t cut them when they’re still tight and green. You want half of their colour to show.

When the time comes for harvesting, I recommend doing so in the morning when it’s not too hot out and the tulips are the most hydrated.

Like I mentioned, I recommend treating all tulips as annuals if you’re growing them for cutting. This means you can pull the entire plant out of the ground, including the bulb. The nice thing about this method is that it gives you a longer stem.

If you’re not planning on putting them in a vase immediately, you can also store them dry in a cooler for up to two weeks. Otherwise, just cut off the bulb and place it in water. I can usually enjoy a vase of tulips for about a week and a half.

If you’ve ever had tulips, you’ll know that the stems have a habit of curving, which causes the flowers to look droopy. One trick I’ve learned is to wrap the stems in paper and leave them in a vase the night before you arrange them. When you remove the paper, they’ll stand straighter.

When you’re arranging your tulips, also keep in mind that they do continue to grow in the vase.

The Best Tulips for Cut Flowers
- Triumph tulips are the largest group of tulips, which means they come in a wide variety of colours and shapes. Their tall, sturdy stems make them a great choice for cutting.
- Rembrandt tulips are known for their distinct striped markings. I like that they add a beautiful pop of uniqueness to any arrangement.
- Fringed tulips are recognizable by their serrated petals, which give them a fluffy look. They’re excellent for adding a contrasting texture to a classic tulip bouquet.
- Double late tulips are often mistaken for peonies as they have lush, rounded petals. With a variety of single and bi-colour options, these look beautiful in vases and gardens alike.
I like getting an assorted pack just so I have the colour variety, like these double late tulips.

FAQs About Cutting Tulips

How long do fresh cut tulips last?

When you harvest tulips fresh from your garden, they can last up to two weeks in a vase! If you’ve ever had store-bought tulips, you’ll know this is quite the improvement from the typical four to five days.

Do you trim tulips for a vase?

I always recommend giving your tulips a good trim before placing them in your vase to avoid putting the leaves in water. This helps the tulips last longer and makes them easier to arrange.

When do I harvest tulips for cut flowers?

Harvesting your flowers at the right time really is key to using tulips as cut flowers. Wait until your tulips have opened slightly, but make sure to cut them before they’re in full bloom. You’ll know it’s the right time when about half their colour is visible.

Plant your tulips with the pointy side facing up.

More Helpful Tips for Growing Tulips
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
October 16, 2024
Naturalizing Bulbs in Lawn: My Bulb Lawn 1 Year Later – Garden Therapy

[ad_1]

A year ago, I planted 1500 bulbs in my front lawn in an attempt to create an epic spring showcase. But how did it turn out? I’m sharing the dirt on the successes, challenges, and all the things I learned in my first year of naturalizing bulbs in my lawn.

Crocus bulbs.

Last fall, I planted over 1500 bulbs in my front yard. Yes, 1500!

Catch up on that project here: planting of the bulb lawn.

Since fall bulb planting has delayed gratification, I had to wait a whole season to see if my hard work would pay off.

I’m happy to say that I had one of the most beautiful springs thanks to all of the flowers.

Oh,didn’t I mention? Instead of grass, I planted wildflower seeds over the bulbs.

DOUBLE FLOWER LAWN!

Let’s dive into what you need to know about naturalizing bulbs in a lawn, and how my first year flower lawn turned out.

Sponsored Content: I’m so happy to be working with flowerbulb.eu once again after they sponsored the first planting of my bulb lawn last year. They don’t sell flower bulbs, their goal is to spread information of bulbs. They’re truly an amazing resource to learn about spring and summer flowering bulbs, with plenty of tips on how to plant them.

The very first of the bulbs to come up were iris and crocus. While a turf lawn would have green grass by this time, my wildflower seedings were just sprouting.

My Bulb Lawn Design

My front lawn was a mix of patchy grass, weeds, and moss. The grasses were struggling, so to keep some green and avoid a winter of mud, I dug out little shapes and islands throughout the lawn. I didn’t weed, top the soil up, and grade the lawn at this stage, I just added the bulbs.

I made my own mix of ten different bulbs, including narcissus, anemone, dwarf iris, snowdrops, muscari crocus, tulips, and Lucile’s glory-of-the-snow. In true chaos gardening style, I added handfuls to the planting holes, turned them right side up, and placed the lawn chunks back over them.

I have an entire post about how I planted and designed my bulb lawn, including the complete bulb mix I used. Read all about that part of the process here.

My bulb design last year consisted of digging quick patches and covering them back up with the turf grass.

A Warm Winter

In February, it was so warm with El Niño that we started to see some early signs of spring. I thought, why not follow Mother Nature’s lead?

Once again I skipped the weeding and removing the grass. Instead, I opted for a chaos gardening approach. I loaded in tons of topsoil and put it over the existing lawn and graded the lawn. Once I raked it all out, I spread the wildflower seeds on top. Just in time, as the bulbs began to come up.

In no time you could see all the bulbs beginning to come up and the little seeds germinating.

The successes were certainly the narcissus and grape hyacinth. They grey in plentiful clusters and looked striking together. At that same time the anemones were blooming but they grew quite short. Since they are a similar colour to the grape hyacinth they got a bit lost. Such a shame, they are one of my favourite flowers.

I was surprised how few snowdrops, crocus, and iris came up. These are so often the bulbs that thrive in mass plantings. Perhaps I planted the bulbs too deeply or perhaps the poor showing was due to the big deep freeze we had. Probably, they simply need a few more years to naturalize and really give me the wow factor I’m looking for.

The Bulb Lawn in the Summer

After the bulbs had their spring welcome party, they went dormant for the summer. Since I don’t mow my lawn, it allowed the bulbs to recharge (my wildflower lawn doesn’t need mowing either).

I started the wildflowers from seed, so there was a constant flush of flowers on my lawn well after the bulbs were gone. The bulbs really steal the show in the spring, and give my seedlings a chance to germinate and grow. A perfect pairing!

From spring to summer, I had people stopping to admire my lawn and all its beautiful flowers.

Filling in the Gaps

What are the jobs to do one year later? Not much! I’m adding 200 assorted crocus bulbs to add a bit more colour to the early spring.

While 200 isn’t very many, it’s a boost to the spaces that were looking a bit bare. My lawn also isn’t super large, so it will be enough to make a difference.

A power planter can help speed up individual bulb plantings.

To plant the crocus bulbs, I used a Power Planter auger attachment for my drill to loosen up the soil and make planting holes. It even would up a few buttercup vines at the same time! I moved the wildflowers aside gently and planted where there was some bare space. I planted the crocuses in groups of 8-10, pointy side up and about 4” deep. Next year there will be a wave of flowers that will fill out more each year.

I planted 200 assorted crocus bulbs for some more early spring blooms.

What I Learned Growing a Bulb Lawn

Sometimes, it was rainbows and sunshine, and sometimes, it was shade and mud. Here are my biggest takeaways from my first year.

The Challenges of the First Year

Since it was the first year, it did look a little sparse. While 1500 bulbs may sound like a lot, it does take a few years for the bulbs to naturalize and multiply to really fill in the lawn.

Because this was the first year of my wildflower lawn, I also had that period where I just had bare soil with seedlings coming through. It didn’t look that great while I waited for things to sprout and bloom.

On the other hand, with 1500 bulbs planted, so many flowers sprung up that visitors didn’t notice my muddy mess beneath. Takeaway: people only notice the blooms. While I, the gardener, noticed the bare spots and mud, the folks who walk by just see the flowers, smile, and tell me how much they enjoy my yard. Love!

This is the most beautiful result of my bulb lawn: the joy it has brought to my neighbourhood. Every time I went outside, people would stop me to talk about the flowers. Those who have lived in this neighbourhood for years talked about how they watched the previous owners struggle with the turf grass and that they appreciated my new direction.

The bare spots of my lawn in the fall.

Cutting Flowers

Last fall I didn’t even think I was also planting a lawn full of cut flowers! As the bulbs grew in and bloomed, I has so many tulips, narcissus, and muscari that I began to cut some and bring them inside rather than purchase a bouquet at the grocery store.

While most are short stems, a bulb lawn can still be a creative way to have a cut flower garden with little fuss. They won’t take up room in the flower bed, and you can choose to cut them or leave them as you wish. Tulips and daffodils are some of the best cut flowers for spring.

Planting Design

The effort of planting that many bulbs is also a consideration. I was experiencing a flare-up of so I didn’t quite have the mobility to individually plant each bulb. It was a faster solution to mix the bulbs and plant those randomly in the sections of lawn we cut out.

Even with the help of two other people, it took me three hours to plant these bulbs, even in this accelerated way.

If I had done the work of planning an intricate pattern throughout the garden, it would probably have looked more “designed”. But in reality, it would have taken me about five times as long. Chaos bulb planting for the win!

My design all along was to plant a meadow of spring bulbs spotted with wildflowers, and I’m eager to see it come together next spring.

It’s always beautiful to try and make a rive of grape hyacinth (muscari).

My DIY Bulb Mixture

For my bulb lawn, I mixed ten different kinds of bulbs together. I loved how easy it was for planting and that you got such a mixed, dotted lawn.

That said, if I were to do this again, I wouldn’t mix 10 types of bulbs, I would only choose 4-6 varieties, max. Same amount of effort, but there is more impact with many of the same flower rather than a smattering of 10 different types.

Even better, I would purchase a mixture of bulbs designed specifically for naturalizing bulbs in lawns. I made my own mixture, but bulb sellers do a great job of curating mixes for succession blooming and naturalizing.

Photo courtesy of flowerbulb.eu. A naturalized lawn often has a perfect combination of blooms and bloom times.

Low Maintenance for the Win

My bulb lawn was incredibly low maintenance. After the work of planting the bulbs, I pretty much did nothing else! It didn’t require any supplemental water, which is amazing.

I only watered my entire lawn once this summer, so the wildflowers did great as well.

As I mentioned above, I also didn’t have to mow. Without turf grass, I didn’t have to worry about having long unruly grass while I waited for the bulbs to recharge.

The sweet alyssum is still blooming on my wildflower lawn at the beginning of the fall.

Weeds, Oh My!

When I planted my bulbs and my wildflower lawn, I went for a chaos gardening approach. While most of this worked in my favour, the one thing I would do next time is to spend more time removing the weeds.

I didn’t pull out the weeds in my first go of planting, but they started taking over this summer and crowding out the wildflowers. I spent a couple of hours pulling out all the weeds so it wasn’t a huge job, but it is easier before they spread. While not every weed is a problem and I leave many to naturalize, I would recommend removing the really stubborn, difficult ones ahead of time.

The weeds in my lawn this fall.

What’s Next for My Bulb Lawn?

In the next couple of years, I will continue to learn what a bulb and wildflower lawn looks like as it starts to mature. A few more bulbs, a bit of seeding, and some clean up here and there to keep it tidy. That’s all this lawn needs. No water or mowing needed and still I get the most beautiful flowers for most of year.

I enjoy my mixed lawn of bulbs, wildflowers, and the odd native plant or two.

My key learning is that 1500 bulbs in a 600 square foot, small urban front yard still didn’t have as much wow factor as you would think.

You can never have too many bulbs. However many bulbs you think you’ve going to plant, double it, heck, triple it! You can’t get too many bulbs.

For a smaller budget, I would only go for one or two kinds of bulbs rather than ten. This way, the bulbs will all grow at the same time, and you’ll get an impressive display.

My front lawn today, with the containers, herb garden, and dry river next to my wildflower lawn.

So now, my next steps are really to do nothing, just as I’ve done for the rest of the year. Which is truly the dream from a regenerative gardening, chaos gardening, and permaculture standpoint.

I’m going to let the garden naturalize, sit back in front of the fireplace, read some wonderful books, and expect to be wowed with flowers next spring!

More Resources for Growing Bulbs This Fall

[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link

October 9, 2024
The Definitive Guide to Daffodils – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
Queen of the spring bulb pageant, the daffodil is everywhere after the snow melts. They come in quite a few varieties ranging from pure white to golden hues of yellow and orange. Daffodils are even more versatile than tulips and hyacinths, making them a great addition to even the toughest gardens. This daffodil care guide covers everything you need to know to have beautiful blooms welcome you into spring.

There was a time when I didn’t appreciate daffodils. I’m sure that was because I was never a huge fan of yellow, especially the iconic trumpet daffodil as seen in large bundles around Easter. They always reminded me of the Crayola primary yellow colour!

My neighbour planted a dense row of them in the bed that divided our two gardens. At first, I was a bit put off by the bank of yellow that bloomed every April, but then I grew to love the sturdiness and dependability of the sunny yellow faces that greeted me when I arrived home.

While they may be named after Narcissus, there is so much more to the daffodil than its bright yellow beauty. Let’s get into it!

Daffodils are known most for being bright yellow, but they also come in different cream and orange hues.

Sponsored Content: I have proudly partnered with FlowerBulbs.com to share this guide on daffodils (who also provided some of the gorgeous photos in this post). We’ve partnered to help remind you that fall is bulb-planting season! There are a ton of bulbs you can purchase online at many retailers and garden centers. This is a great reminder to grab your favourite bulbs before all the good ones are sold out. Come springtime, you will be happy you took the initiative when you have a garden full of spring blooms.

The History of Daffodils

The botanical name for daffodil is Narcissus. It is believed to be named after the river god from Greek mythology of the same name. Narcissus was very beautiful and often had people fall in love with him, including the nymph Echo. However, he met her affections with disdain. This led the god of revenge, Nemesis, to make him fall in love with his own reflection. Unable to leave his own image, he eventually withered away, becoming a flower.

Daffodils also mean rebirth and new beginnings. They are one of the first flowers to emerge in spring after the frost, and they are known for brightening up the world after a dreary winter.

Daffodils are also valued in China as they grow around Chinese New Year. They represent good luck, prosperity, and good fortune. If they bloom on New Year’s Day, it means you will receive good luck for the year ahead.

Narcissus ‘Kiwi Sunset’ photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

Daffodils as a Beacon of Hope

The daffodil is a beautiful mascot for a very important cause. Since the 1950s, the American Cancer Society and Canadian Cancer Society have used daffodils to represent hope for a cancer-free future. The daffodil was chosen because it represents a hardy flower that rises from the cold winter and blooms again in the spring. It represents vitality, growth, and new life.

Daffodil Month is celebrated throughout March. Daffodils are sold with all profits going towards helping those living with cancer and funding for cancer research. Next March, keep an eye out for daffodil sales in your local community to support this cause!

Narcissus “Tete a Tete Tops” photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

Daffodil Toxicity

It should be known that all parts of the daffodil bulb are toxic. While you may not think to reach for a daffodil when hungry, the bulbs can be mistaken for other plants, such as onions. Not to mention any curious kiddos or digging dogs out there!

Ingesting parts of a daffodil can lead to nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain. While these symptoms will only last for a few hours, they can easily be avoided. The toxicity comes from the chemical lycorine. The bulb contains the highest level of lycorine but it is also present throughout the plant.

Plant daffodils in an area where pets and children don’t frequent. While I wish all plants were edible, we have to be careful about what we plant and where. Children should always be supervised in the garden and taught not to eat anything they don’t know.

Ensure kids and pets stay away from daffodil bulbs and plants. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Daffodils

Daffodils are very popular because of their hardiness and ability to easily naturalize. They grow in zones 3-8, withstanding temperatures up to -50 degrees Fahrenheit.

That means most of us up north will have no trouble at all planting daffodil bulbs in the fall and waiting for them to bloom in the spring. They act as a perennial plant and flower early in the season. Overall, they are a fairly low maintenance bulb.

They can be planted just about anywhere, but they pair well with late-blooming perennials. Daffodils can provide some bright colour to otherwise dreary beds in the springtime. They can also be planted under shrubs and trees as they can handle shade.

Here is the lowdown on growing daffodils:
- USDA Zones: 3-8
- Flower colour: white, yellow, orange, red, and pink
- Flowering period: February – May
- Planting depth to the base of bulb: large bulbs – 8 inches; small bulbs – 5 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches for large bulbs; 1 inch for small bulbs
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Light requirements: full sun to full shade
- Landscape uses: daffodils are suitable for almost every possible application: fields, beds, containers, borders, rock gardens, as cut flowers, and for forcing.
Narcissus ‘Thalia’ photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

Growing Daffodils in Containers

Container gardening is becoming increasingly popular. By placing daffodil bulbs in a container, you can force them to bloom a little bit earlier in the year. These make great additions to your balcony, patio, or entranceway while other flowers take their time to spring up.

You will want to choose daffodil varieties with short stems and foliage that aren’t too big for the container. When choosing a container, make sure it is at least 10-12 inches deep and has drainage holes. You can also add a layer of clay shards to the bottom of the container for extra drainage.

Press your bulbs into loose soil five inches deep (for small daffodils). You can place them relatively close together as the bulbs will not grow wider. Place your container outside and wait for the bulbs to emerge. If is it persistently dry outside, make sure to water them.

If frost is on its way, try to move your container into a safe place that isn’t too warm, such as a garage or shed. Bulbs in containers are more susceptible to cold as it comes in from all directions.

Daffodils as Cut Flowers

I added daffodils to my front yard bulb lawn. Amongst other bulbs, I had a huge mixture of different bulbs erupt. So much so that I was able to cut some and bring them inside to enjoy!

Harvest daffodils before they’ve fully opened and when the buds are fully coloured. Their necks should be slightly nodding. Harvesting them early will give you about a week’s vase life.

Daffodils are known as one of the “dirty dozen flowers” and emit sap when harvesting, so you’ll want to wear gloves. This sap is also toxic to other flowers, so you want to avoid putting them in a vase with others immediately.

Instead, you’ll want to condition the daffodils first by placing the fresh-cut flowers in cool water for a few hours. This will allow the stem to dry out. Then, you can place them with other flowers.

While normally you want to recut flower stems to freshen them in your vase, don’t recut daffodils as they will emit their toxic sap again, killing other flowers in the arrangement.

Make sure to condition daffodils first before putting them in arrangements. Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com.

FAQ About Growing Daffodils

How long do daffodils last?

Most daffodils have a blooming period that can last for 4-6 weeks.

What do you do with daffodils after they bloom?

You can cut the main flower stalk after the daffodils have bloomed, but you must leave the leaves. The leaves are going to recharge the bulb so it can grow again the following year. Once the leaves begin to turn yellow and die back, you can clip back the leaves as well. Leave the bulb where it is, and it will be a sunny beacon again next year!

Will daffodil bulbs multiply?

Yes! Daffodils are known for naturalizing in garden beds and lawns and will begin to multiply 2-3 years after initial planting. For them to naturalize, they need to be left alone to recharge the bulb until the leaves turn yellow. Consider this when planting your daffodil bulbs (ie, you may not be able to mow a lawn for a while if you place them in your grass).

Any daffodil variety should naturalize, but some are better known for it, such as Narcissus ‘Actaea’ and Narcissus ‘Tete a Tete’.

Do daffodils bloom more than once?

Daffodils will only bloom once per season. Their bulbs have only enough energy to produce the blooms once.

Photo courtesy of Flowerbulbs.com

More Bulbs to Plant This Fall
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
September 16, 2024
Beyond Tulips: 12 Extraordinary Spring Flowering Bulbs to Plant in Fall
[ad_1]
If you like tulips then there are a number of other spring flowering bulbs that you will love! This list showcases flower bulbs that are super early bloomers, have stop-you-in-your-tracks fragrance, or produce unique flowers that give tulips a run for their money. Why not plant some of these bulbs this fall and create a stunning spring garden?

Tulips are wonderful plants. Frilly parrot tulips, deep-dark-almost-black purple tulips, cheery giant tulips, and many more can be found in my garden beds.

But tulips aren’t the only spring flowering bulbs I give space to in my garden. I get just as much (maybe even more) enjoyment out of these outstanding spring bloomers. And fall is the time to get them in the ground!

If you really want to make your spring a magical one, try planting some of these more unique and beautiful bulbs in your lawn…in addition to the tulips!

This post will cover…

Bulbs already sprouted? That’s quite alright. Still pop it in the ground.

Sponsored Content: I’m proudly partnering with FlowerBulbs.com to share this list of extraordinary spring flowering bulbs to plant in the fall. FlowerBulbs.com’s goal is to help spread information and love for gardening through bulbs. While I was creating this list of the bulbs I grow in my garden, I used the site as a resource for the growing information and some gorgeous photos. While this list is a compilation of my 12 favourite bulbs, corms, and tubers to plant in fall, there are many more to search through in FlowerBulbs.com’s spring database.

Bulbs, Corms, and Tubers

If you are scanning this list, you might feel compelled to shout, “Hey, that’s not a bulb!” I get it; words are important, especially when writing about plants.

Botanically, tulips grow from bulbs, but other plants that could be considered “flower bulbs” actually grow from corms (like crocuses) or tubers (like dahlias). Read more about this differentiation in this post on How to Plant Fall Bulbs.

Snowdrop (Galanthus spp.)

Snowdrops are close to my heart because they are the very first flower that shows its head in late winter, letting us know that spring is close at hand.

These delicate white and green bell-shaped flowers may seem unassuming, but in the winter, when everything else is gray and brown and dreary, their sweet stalks and blooms are like a breath of fresh air.

Snowdrop bulbs can be hard to find in the fall, but if you’re lucky enough to stumble upon some at your local garden center, buy them and get them in the ground as soon as possible because they can dry out easily.
- USDA zone: 3-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: white
- Flowering period: February – March
- Average plant height: 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 2 inches
- Light requirements: full to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, under trees and shrubs, and in lawn
Early to bloom, snowdrops are January’s birthflower.

Snowflake (Leucojum vernum)

Snowflakes are similar to snowdrops in how early they bloom, although they have six equal-length petals and are a much rarer bulb to come by. They love moist soil and are perfect planted beside a pond or water garden. These are well-suited for the rainy winter conditions of my Vancouver garden.
- USDA zone: 3-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: white
- Flowering period: February – March
- Average plant height: 8 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 5 inches
- Light requirements: partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, under shrubs and trees, and as cut flowers
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Snowflakes naturalize easily in the garden.

Dutch Hyacinth (Hyacinthus spp.)

Dutch hyacinths are not only gorgeous with their tightly clustered bell-shaped flowers in many colours options, but they also have the most heavenly perfume!

In the Victorian era, hyacinths were revered for their scent. It was common to devote an entire garden to these fragrant flowers alone. Plant in full sun or partial shade and they will bloom in early spring.
- USDA zone: 4-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: red, pink, orange, salmon, yellow, purple, white and blue
- Flowering period: March – April
- Average plant height: 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 6 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: beds and borders
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. In the right conditions, hyacinths can be perennial bulbs.

Grape Hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum)

Grape hyacinths are not at all related to Dutch hyacinths; they are the Muscari genus, which has about 30 different species. While they are all prolific bulbs that naturalize easily, the colours can range from white to deep blue and, of course, grape-purple.

Muscari look beautiful when planted in rivers through gardens, and they do extremely well in containers. The individual blooms may be diminutive, but grown together they are absolutely stunning. They’re part of my flower bulb lawn!

Grape hyacinths bloom longer than most other spring flowering bulbs too. They make a great cut flower, they provide an early nectar source for pollinators (except for the double ones) and they are deer and rabbit resistant.
- USDA zone: 4-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: blue, purple or white
- Flowering period: March-May, depending on the species
- Average plant height: 4 – 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 5 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 8 cm
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, and under shrubs and trees
Grape hyacinth may not be tall, but they naturalize and last a long time in the garden compared to other bulbs.

Checkered Lily (Fritillaria meleagris)

Fritillaria meleagris is sometimes called Checkered Lily or Snake Lily. It looks exotic with its downward-facing, bell-shaped flowers in purple and white checkers.

It does well in the shade and thrives in moist soil. I visited a woodland garden where it naturalized easily, and the masses of checkers beneath the mossy trees were picture-perfect. Fritillaria blooms in mid-spring.
- USDA zones: 3-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: purple or white
- Flowering period: April – May
- Average plant height: 10 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 2 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, lawns, under trees and shrubs, and perennial beds
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. These bulbs are usually sold in mixed colours.

Imperial Fritillaria (Fritillaria imperialis)

Imperial Fritillaria is every bit as weird to plant as it is to enjoy in the garden. The bulbs are large, and they do not smell good, so you will want to get them planted as soon as they arrive.

This also keeps them from getting damaged if the roots begin to sprout. They have a distinctive musky smell when blooming, which isn’t for everyone but that scent deters moles, deer, and squirrels. I personally enjoy planting them because they look like they are wearing crowns.
- USDA zones: 4-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: yellow, orange-red and red
- Flowering period: April – May
- Average plant height: 40 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 12 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade (some shade is particularly important in warmer climatic zones)
- Landscape uses: perennial beds and borders
This is one of the earliest plants to be cultivated.

Oxalis (Oxalis adenophylla)

Oxalis are lovely plants for both foliage and flowers. Known as Silver Shamrocks, they have pretty clover-like leaves and pink blooms. In the right conditions they are trouble-free plants that naturalize easily, resist pests and disease, and are even deer and rabbit proof. They are happy in sun or part shade, as long as there is excellent drainage. Rock gardens and pots are perfect for oxalis.
- USDA zones: 4-9
- Type of bulb: tuber
- Flower colour: pink
- Flowering period: June – July
- Average plant height: 3 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders and rock gardens
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Oxalis originally comes from Chili and Argentina.

Dutch Iris (Iris × hollandica)

Dutch Iris produces elegant, deep blue or purple flower heads atop long, slender stalks, creating a stunning display that’s not to be missed. In Greek mythology, the goddess Iris represented the link between heaven and earth, and it’s no wonder these heavenly flowers bear her name now. Plant in a sunny area in early fall. Irises attract pollinators and make beautiful cut flowers.
- USDA zones: 6-9
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flowering colour: deep and light blue, purple, yellow and white
- Flowering period: June – July
- Average plant height: 24 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 6 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 10
- Light requirement: full sun
- Landscape uses: beds, borders, and as cut flowers
They also do well when grown in containers.

Crocus (Iridaceae spp.)

Crocuses are a member of the iris family and one of the first flowers to bloom in the spring. They are beautiful and can be planted in the garden bed or directly in the lawn for a meadowy look (they’ll start to die back by the time the lawn comes in enough to need mowing).

They are also wonderful for layering in beds or pots above other bulbs or perennials, as they provide early blooms and die back just as the later flowers begin to sprout. In addition to providing colourful early spring blooms in purple, white, and yellow, crocus is a beneficial source of pollen for our bee friends.
- USDA zones: 3-9
- Type of bulb: corm
- Flower colour: yellow, white, purple, striped and bronze
- Flowering period: February – March
- Average plant height: 3 – 8 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 1 inch
- Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
- Landscape uses: borders, rock gardens, in lawns, under shrubs and trees, and for indoor forcing
Scatter crocus and plant where they fall for a naturalized look.

Ornamental Onion (Alliums spp.)

Ok, I’ll admit, I’m addicted to alliums! These powerhouses are gorgeous and unique ornamentals and tasty edibles, and some varieties have sculptural seed heads that can be dried and used as striking home décor. For more information, see this Essential Guide to Alliums.
- USDA zones: 3-9
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: white, purple, pink, burgundy
- Flowering period: April – June
- Average plant height: 10 – 68 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulb: varies, follow species instructions
- Spacing between bulbs: varies, follow species instructions
- Light requirements: full sun
- Landscape uses: perennial gardens, borders, fresh-cut and dried
Even once done blooming, the unique seed heads provide some garden beauty.

Anemone (Anemone coronaria)

During the nineteenth century in Europe, people believed that anemone flowers would ward off bad luck, so planting these might just bring you luck and will certainly yield a ton of beauty in the garden.

Anemones are hardworking plants with flowers in striking, deep jewel tones. They produce many blooms from each tuber so they are a great cutting flower that just keeps going from spring to summer. Tip: soak the tubers for a couple of hours before planting.
- USDA zones: 7-10
- Type of bulb: tuber
- Flower colour: blue, red, white, pink
- Flowering period: May-August
- Average plant height: 12 – 16 inches
- Planting depth to base of bulbs: 2 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
- Light requirements: sun or light shade in a sheltered spot (afternoon sun)
- Landscape uses: border, beds, pots
Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com. Anemones are also sometimes called windflowers.

Daffodil (Narcissus spp.)

The sunny yellow trumpets of daffodils are a symbol of spring season change and look striking when planted en masse.

Before you pass by this beauty as too common, it’s worth having a look at some of the gorgeous varieties that show why the Narcissus species was aptly named after the Greek god known for his beauty. Check out the ruffled blooms of double daffodils as well as unique colours like “Westward,” “Pink Wonder,” “Tahiti,” and “Sorbet.” See my full daffodil guide here.
- USDA zones: 3-8
- Type of bulb: true bulb
- Flower colour: white, yellow, orange, red and pink
- Flowering period: February – May
- Planting depth to base of bulb: large bulbs: 8 inches; small bulbs: 5 inches
- Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches for large bulbs; 1 inch for small bulbs
- Light requirements: full sun to full shade
- Landscape uses: Daffodils are suitable for almost every possible application: fields, beds, containers, borders, rock gardens, as cut flowers, and for forcing.
Daffodils come in many hues and combinations of yellow, cream, and orange.

Spring Flowering Bulb FAQ

Can I plant bulbs that have sprouted already?

Bulbs that have already sprouted can still be planted. They’ve likely been left out a little longer and are reacting to the warm conditions. They will pop up just fine in the spring. Plant as indicated, roughly three times the size of the bulb deep.

When should I plant spring flowering bulbs?

Spring flowering bulbs should be planted in the fall, beginning in mid-September to mid-December, depending on where you live. You want to ensure they’re in the ground before it freezes. Typically once you buy them, you should plant them shortly after.

Should I water the bulbs after I plant them?

You should immediately water spring flowering bulbs after planting them. This will encourage the plant to grow roots and get them established before the cold temperatures arrive. Bulbs planted in pots should also be watered afterward, and continued to be watered until the soil dries out in the pots quickly.

More Spring Flowering Bulb Tips
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
September 10, 2024
Design and Plant a Front Yard Bulb Garden and Lawn – Garden Therapy
[ad_1]
A bulb lawn is one of the most beautiful ways to usher in the spring. A wave of colourful flowers erupts across your lawn, creating a welcome display for your enjoyment and the pollinators after a cold winter. Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.

Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

It’s my first fall in my new house, and while I’ve been here for a couple of months now, I still feel like I’m just settling in. I’ve barely scratched the surface of the garden.

So, when flowerbulbs.com offered to send me 1500 bulbs to create a front yard pollinator garden, I leapt at the opportunity.

My front yard space is small, about 600 sq. ft., and very patchy. It currently consists of moss, buttercup, and a bit of turf. And after years of poor drainage and neglect, it’s not level. So you could say that a bulb lawn makeover is very much needed!

Be sure to read all the way to the end because I have a great bulb giveaway for two lucky readers as well!

Follow along to see how I designed and planted my front yard bulb garden.

Mixing your bulbs together creates a more natural look.

Sponsored Content: Thank you to flowerbulbs.com for sponsoring this post and providing the epic bulb giveaway. Flowerbulbs.com is an amazing resource to help you learn about all the different kinds of bulbs and how to plant them. Be sure to check them out!

What is a Bulb Lawn?

Bulb lawns are exactly what they sound like! You plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall in your lawn, and come early spring, they begin to bloom across your grass. It’s a practice that began in Europe hundreds of years ago and is popular in many botanical gardens today.

Most gardeners choose naturalizing bulbs. These are bulbs that you plant once, and then they return and multiply over the years, such as snowdrops, crocus, and daffodils. Over time, it will slowly cover your lawn into a spectacular display of spring colour.

I’ve written an extensive guide about naturalizing bulbs that you can also read.

Front bulb gardens provide many ecological and aesthetic benefits. No matter the type of lawn, it’s easy to start planting bulbs to spruce up an otherwise empty space.

The bulbs will provide early-season pollen and nectar for pollinators when little else is blooming. Spring-flowering bulbs are some of the first flowers to awaken, providing lots of colour and texture after a sometimes gloomy winter.

Bulbs in lawns are incredibly low maintenance. After planting, you only need to water them once to help them establish themselves. You don’t mow in the spring, as the flowers bloom. Then, the naturalizing bulbs return on their own, slowly multiplying every following season.

Here’s how my boulevard bulb garden project turned out last year!

Gardening With an Invisible Disability

Physically, I have not been doing well lately. I’ve had a flare-up of my disability that has made daily tasks incredibly challenging. So, while I was excited to get these bulbs and plant a front yard pollinator garden, I honestly didn’t know how I would get the job done.

I know many people who read Garden Therapy also struggle with physical and other restraints that keep them from being able to garden. So, it was important to me that I tackle this project and get my own garden therapy while also sharing how I made it easier on myself living through this current flare-up that has really taken me down.

So, first and foremost, I asked for help. I started by calling in some local landscaping friends to see if somebody could come and help me with the planting. And they came through!

Me with my power planter. Power planters are good for planting multiple bulbs.

Preparing for Your Bulb Garden

Before you begin planting, you’ll want to mow your lawn ahead of time so it’s easy to dig into and map out a design.

If you haven’t already grabbed your bulbs, then make sure you get them ASAP before the frost comes and the ground freezes.

For a front yard pollinator garden, make sure to include single flower blooms. Double flower blooms are beautiful, and you can certainly plant some, but pollinators need single flowers.

Here is the mixture that I ended up planting:
- 100 Narcissus “Tete a Tete Tops”
- 200 Anemone “Blanda”
- 50 Chionodoxa luciliae “Alba”
- 100 Dwarf iris “Alida”
- 100 Dwarf iris “J.S.Dyt”
- 100 Dwarf iris “Louise”
- 100 Snowdrops “Floreo Plena”
- 400 Muscari
- 200 Crocus Large Mix
- 200 Tulips
Make Your Design

My front yard is a small south-facing space. In front, there are two large trees on the city property, plus a 3-foot tall fence surrounding the yard.

With my friends, we chatted through some design ideas. I originally wanted to do a muscari river through the centre of the lawn and then plant a mixture of low-growing bulbs to naturalize on either side of the river.

But there were two big challenges with this plan. First, I thought it would look slightly contrived in the front yard. Two gates come into the yard; one gate has a pathway that goes into the backyard, while the other has a pathway to the front door. With a muscari river between those two paths, it wouldn’t have the natural flow I was looking for.

The second challenge was that lots of digging would be involved to get 1500 bulbs in the front yard. In my previous stinzen planting project at my rental house, we used a power planter to drill holes for all the bulbs individually.

If I did that for this project, I would have 1500 holes in the yard, and that just didn’t seem like the right strategy for such a small space.

So here’s what we did…

Use a large container to mix up your bulbs easily.

Mixed Bulb Pockets

To achieve the naturalized look I wanted, we decided to do little pockets of mixed bulbs throughout the lawn. We mixed all the bulbs together to create a much more natural appearance.

When planning out your design, you want to ensure you can still access the garden if you need to. You also want to place them in a low-traffic area so the bulbs aren’t disturbed when blooming.

For my pocket design, you can still walk across the lawn between all the bulbs that will grow like lily pads popping up in the spring.

This design also allowed me to level the lawn. We found small natural depressions in the lawn (like the heart shape below) and lifted the soil. Once we placed the bulbs, we could put chunks of the lawn on top. This helped to lift the area so that the lawn is now semi-graded.

When planting a bulb garden, you want to try to place it in full sun. While the bulbs can grow in partial shade, they thrive with lots of spring sunlight.

This natural heart shape was a depression in the lawn. Digging it up will help level my lawn. I added more soil to this sunken area.

Tulip Border

In my bub garden design, I also included a tulip border. For this, I mixed 4 varieties of tulips in a wave along the fence. You can use spray paint or a hose to help you map out a design. We just went freehand and dug it up. We will see how it looks in the spring!

Here are the varieties of tulips I planted:
- “Couleur Cardinal”
- “Purple Prince”
- “Continental”
- “Sunny Prince”
Plant Your Bulbs

Finally, we were ready to plant! With the tulips separate, I mixed together the 1300 remaining bulbs and dug about 20 different-shaped pockets.

With so many bulbs to plant, we didn’t worry about careful placement. We dug down about 6 inches deep into the soil.

I then tossed in a couple of handfuls of bulbs, so it looked like they would fill the space quite nicely. Then, we turned them all around so that the roots were pointed down and the tips up while laughing and shouting, “Bums down!”

Then, we backfilled with the soil and placed the turf back on top. Of course, the turf was falling apart due to the heavy percentage of moss and weeds. Not enough turf roots were there to hold the structure together, so it became a mishmash of placing as many of the puzzle pieces back in as possible and topping the rest off with new soil and seed.

Yes, the lawn won’t look the prettiest after the initial bulb planting, but it does bounce back quickly. I started my project a bit later than I would want the lawn to recover well before winter, but I’m still confident it will look fabulous in the spring!

Make sure your bulbs are planted pointy end facing up and roots down.

A Note on Depth

As you can see, I didn’t fuss too much about the planting depth for all the different bulbs. But typically, you want to plant the bulbs 3X as deep as they are tall.

For instance, daffodil bulbs are 2 inches tall, so you’d plant them 6 inches deep. Meanwhile, you can have really small bulbs that only get planted 2 inches deep.

If you don’t have as many bulbs as me, you can be a little more careful about your planting depths. You can also group the bulbs based on their size when mixing them. This way, you can dig deeper depending on what mix you’re currently planting.

The tulip bulbs were planted in the back border as a colourful spring display.

Repairing the Lawn

After planting, my lawn looked a little patchy, but truly, if you hadn’t seen us plant all those bulbs, you would never have known. I watered my lawn to help settle everything and help establish the bulbs.

Since my lawn needed some TLC in the first place, the next step will be to top the entire lawn with more topsoil and then reseed it. I’ll be seeding my lawn with a mixture of microclover and turf grasses that do well in the shade—even though my lawn is south-facing, it does get a lot of shade because of the structures around it.

Ozzie oversaw all of our design plans and planting 😉

My Methodology

While planting my bulb garden, a friend visited for the weekend. While she doesn’t identify as a gardener, she did agree to help me. Her previous experience with bulbs was buying a package from the garden centre, bringing it home, and letting a couple of years pass. She still has that package, although I broke the news that they were now compost (but most likely dust). She had the best intentions but became overwhelmed by the spacing and location and wasn’t sure how to do it.

When we started planting, she was quite surprised that we dug holes and tossed in our bulbs willy-nilly before adjusting their direction. We didn’t add any bonemeal; instead, we just topped them with soil. I explained that this freestyle planting comes with some experience.

Ok, so I just wrote that I didn’t add any bonemeal. Let me explain. Generally, home gardens have enough phosphorous in our soil, so adding bonemeal isn’t necessary.

Bulb fertilizers are often labelled as ‘bloom boosters’ because the high phosphorous levels encourage plant flowering. If you notice that your container plants aren’t flowering as much as they should be, adding additional phosphorous could be the key to more blooms.

That being said, the ground soil in a home garden probably has adequate amounts of phosphorous. Adding more than the plants need can run off into water systems, creating environmental issues.

Even more concerning is that phosphorous is a finite resource, and humans are consuming it for agricultural purposes at alarming rates. While farmed land may need phosphorous to be replenished, in the home garden, it is only needed when a soil test shows a deficiency or when fertilizing plants in potting soil.

My tulip border along the front fence.

Growing a Natural Lawn

I was very surprised when I lifted the grass to see how healthy the soil was below. It was a beautiful surprise full of microorganisms and some organic matter. It was light and fluffy, dark black, and well-hydrated. What a treat!

Immediately, I was encouraged that this would make a beautiful garden because the soil was so healthy.

Since I garden from a permaculture standpoint, I try to make all my projects regenerative. Topping the soil would encourage plants to grow besides turf and bulbs. Those wild plants are great for the soil, improving the nutrient mixture to help the bulbs flower.

Over the years, I’ll keep adding some nice compost and continue to support the soil health with the addition of microclovers and turf grasses. This will allow a mixture of wild plants, like buttercup, to grow and flower, providing even more pollinator food.

Then, the bulbs in the lawn will become more like a meadow space and naturalize in a way that looks effortless, all while helping out local wildlife.

Bulb Garden Giveaway!

I’ve partnered with flowerbulbs.com to give away a stunning spring flowering bulb mixture perfect for creating a bulb lawn or garden. Not one but TWO lucky garden therapy winners will win $100 worth of bulbs for planting.

To enter the contest, leave a comment down below letting me know which bulbs are your favourite to grow. This contest is open until November 23, 2023, when I will use a random number generator to select the winners. This contest is only open to US residents.

Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

FAQ About Bulb Gardens

When should I plant my bulb lawn?

You want to plant your bulb garden before the first frost and the ground freezes. Here are some recommendations for zones from flowerbulbs.com.
Zone 4-5 — September to October
Zone 6-7 — October to early November
Zone 8-9 — November to early December
Zone 10+ — late December to early January

How do I mow a bulb lawn?

In the spring, do not mow. Wait as long as you can until your foliage turns yellow. Then, you can mow normally. You want to avoid mowing until the plant dies, as it needs to gather energy to store in the bulb so it returns the following year. After blooming, your bulb lawn will look like a regular lawn.

How do I stop squirrels from digging up my bulbs?

Squirrels love dirt and loose soil. So, after planting bulbs in lawn, you’ll notice that squirrels might come flocking to your garden. You can peg chicken wire down over your lawn for the first few weeks until the grass appears normal again. You can also sprinkle grass seed over the top to help encourage the grass to fill back in quickly.

Planting at the right depth also means the squirrels might not dig that deep. I have a hard time picturing squirrels digging down 6 inches!

Watch this video to see how I handled the squirrels in my bulb garden last year.

More Tips for Growing Bulbs
[ad_2]

Stephanie Rose

Source link
November 13, 2023