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Tag: edible gardening

  • Designing the Vegetable Garden: How to Make a Garden Map

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    If you have begun working on how to make a garden, you may feel a bit overwhelmed at the sheer amount of information, options, and how to keep track of it all. That’s where this garden map comes in handy! It’s a simple visual tool that will work for newbie gardeners and master gardeners alike.

    The first step in starting a vegetable garden, or any garden really, is to write out a plan. The plan can be anything from a few Post It notes on a seed catalog to a computerized garden map.

    I like to create something in between: a hand-drawn map of the garden beds with the planting plan. This garden map is a great tool to help you fully plan out your garden to maximize its space and get the best possible vegetable harvest.

    vegetable garden mapvegetable garden map

    Why Should I Use a Garden Map?

    If you have a vegetable garden, a garden map is a must each year. It will help you determine how many seeds and plants you will need and where you should plant each of them. It also will help you keep track of what you will be producing year round and allow you to group similar harvest seasons together.

    Typically, the vegetable garden needs to be planned out each year. Vegetables are annuals (for the most part) and when they reach maturity we eat them, so they need to be planted every year. Plus, each year our garden grows and changes and we need to keep up with it!

    There are so many factors to where, when, and how you plant the different vegetables, that a map is the best way to keep you on track. When to start seeds, whether or not to start them outdoors, when to transplant seedlings, good plant companions, and crop rotation are all things to think about when designing a garden plan.

    This is a good activity to do in late winter when you’ve got spring on the brain. I find it gets me in the gardening spirit while it is still snowy and cold outside. While it is great for vegetables, you can follow similar steps for a brand new garden or a major garden transformation. Here are the steps that I use for my mapping process.

    (If you need help building garden beds then start here instead.)

    Blank zoning map to use in an at-home gardenBlank zoning map to use in an at-home garden

    How to Make a Garden Map

    Ready to get started? I’ll walk you through each step so you can learn how to make a garden plan with ease!

    Map Out Your Garden Space

    Measure your vegetable garden and draw a garden map to scale 1″ representing 1′ in the garden. Draw in any obstacles that you will have to contend with like posts, irrigation heads, or other structures you need to work within the garden.

    Label north on the map and watch the sun over the course of a few days to get a sense of what the light will be like. Remember that the sun in the summer and fall will be in different positions in the sky. Trees will leaf out and create shade, buildings may create more or less shade as the sun moves.

    If this is your first year mapping your garden, make notes in a gardening journal throughout the year as to how the light will fall. Here is my garden helper coloring in the sun and shade while we plan over a coffee date.

    Child designing a map for gardeningChild designing a map for gardening

    Create Your Wish List

    Grab some seed catalogs and write down all of the vegetables, fruits, and herbs that you want to grow. Now, look up each of them in a seed catalog written for your area. You may find that some of your top choices are not even for sale in your area. Sadly, this is because not every veggie can grow in every climate. You will need to stick to what you can grow, so cross those off the list.

    Look at the number of days until harvest and do the math. Some vegetables need a really long growing season and if cool fall weather comes before the harvest date, you may never even taste the fruits of your labor. Think about requirements like plant size at maturity, spacing needs, and shade/sun requirements to further refine your list.

    You may also be able to have multiple crops in one season! There are some speedy spring vegetables to grow for early crops as well as vegetables that can be planted later in the season. Consider grouping these vegetables together to get multiple harvests from a single area in one season.

    The other thing I think about when creating my vegetable garden seed list is cost and availability of the vegetables. I choose heirloom seed varieties, rare colors, and expensive-to-buy produce to grow in my home garden.

    In the winter, I also like to take an inventory of the previous season’s harvest. I look at which vegetables did well and which ones did I wish I had more of. This way I can be sure my garden is even more successful the following year when I map it out. I also note which vegetables did not perform well and see whether or not I should try and grow them again or move them to a new location.

    West Coast Seeds Catalog for Garden PlanningWest Coast Seeds Catalog for Garden Planning

    Add Plants to Your Garden Map

    Use pencil so you can easily move plants to new spaces or add more. Our vegetable garden is a small area that has four planters, two on the ground and two in the sky in a vertical planting system. To determine what plants went into the beds I looked at the location and amount of shade. I planned for root vegetables and plants with deep roots in the two beds that are on the ground. Shallow rooted plants when in the upper planters. I also make sure to note vertical vegetables such as tomatoes or peas. They will need additional support and may eventually cause shade to lower growing plants later in the season.

    Finally, put pen to paper and mark the final location of your vegetables. This plan may change as the season goes by. Mark those changes, and anything that you noticed throughout the year right on your garden map. It will be a great starting point for next year, and a memento of your garden for years to come.

    Make sure you put your map somewhere for safe keeping. Make notes on what worked and what didn’t work so you can plan again better next year. Saving your map for future reference can be an immense help!

    vegetable garden plan with seed packetsvegetable garden plan with seed packets

    Garden Map Tips

    When mapping, I like to use square foot gardening. If you have uniquely-shaped garden beds like I do, then square foot planting will be a very helpful tool. Mark each square foot on the garden map, then you can determine how many plants of each type can go in each square. Some vegetables like cabbage and cauliflower require at least a square to themselves, but others like carrots can squeeze 12-16 plants into a square. There is a guide here for square foot planting.

    That being said, get creative with your space! As I mentioned earlier, I primarily grow my vegetables in pots and containers and my unique vertical garden. Don’t just think of traditional vegetable beds. Anyone can benefit from a garden map, especially those with small and uniquely shaped gardens.

    You may also want to consider crop rotation for your garden. Plants that belong to the same family tend to use the same nutrients in the soil. Planting the same vegetables year after year in the same area can deplete the soil. Similar plant families include alliums, Solanaceae, brassica, cucurbit, and legume families. When doing your planting research, make a note of what family it belongs to. Keeping your map is especially helpful in keeping track of crop rotation year after year.

    How to map your gardenHow to map your garden

    More Gardening Posts to Read

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Rose Hips Benefits + How to Grow Them (and Use Them)

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    If you are looking for a simple, tasty way to get your daily dose of vitamin C, along with plenty of antioxidants, look no further than your rose bush! Rose hips’ benefits are plentiful—here’s how to grow, harvest, and enjoy them.

    LoriAnn’s Green Blessing:

    This article was reviewed by herbalist LoriAnn Bird. This is not to be used as personal medical advice; always consult your health care professional for individual concerns.

    Here is what LoriAnn had to say:

    Rosehips are sought after by birds, squirrels, rabbits, wild game, and bears!  Considered a herb dietary supplement, rosehips are often fed to horses and dogs recuperating from illness or injury as they help to restore the immune system and aid tissue repair. Feeding rosehips as part of the daily diet is beneficial for preventing illness. Chickens LOVE rosehip seeds, and like wild birds, they don’t seem bothered by the hairs.

    Rosehips are so loaded with nutrients! Like a superfood, they contain Vitamins A, B complex, C, E, K, and minerals including calcium, silica, iron, and phosphorous. Rosehips are particularly high in bioflavonoids which are rich antioxidants including rutin that help strengthen heart and blood vessels as well as prevent degeneration of tissue. The natural pectin found in rosehips is beneficial for gut health and removing toxins from the body.

    What Are Rose Hips?

    If you grow roses in your garden, you may get the added benefit of rose hips, a cool-cat fruit that packs a healthy punch!

    Rose hips are the rose plant’s seedpod/fruit. Although most home gardeners don’t get many as we prune back our roses to encourage strong blooming. This year, decrease your pruning and see if you can encourage a crop of tasty, healthy rose hips to bloom!

    Which Variety Should I Harvest?

    The rugosa roses are typically harvested for the tastiest hips, but all roses will produce them in the late summer and fall if left alone by secateur-wielding gardeners.

    What do Rose Hips Look Like?

    Identifying these edibles is not too challenging. They look like an oblong cranberry or perhaps a miniature cherry tomato.

    Rose hips are typically a vibrant reddish-orange. In some species, hips can even be dark purple or even black.

    What do They Taste Like?

    Rose hips are tart and reminiscent of a zesty crabapple in flavour, although not quite as tasty. They are, however, prized for their health benefits and are jam-packed with Vitamin C.

    Did you know that the rose petals are edible, too? Yes, they are! Read more about Edible Flowers here.

    rose bushrose bush
    Don’t deadhead your roses so that they can develop rose hips.

    Rose Hips Benefits

    Now that you know what they taste like and what they are, let’s chat about why you may want to consume or use them. Here are some of the most important rose hip benefits

    High Levels of Vitamin C

    As mentioned above, rose hips are prized for their high concentration of vitamin C in particular. In fact, they contain 50% more Vitamin C than oranges!

    Vitamin C is essential for our immune systems and can help our bodies stimulate white blood cell production.

    Anti-Inflammatory Properties

    If you suffer from an autoimmune disease, adding these cherry buds to your daily consumption can help reduce pain. In fact, a study conducted showed that 65% of participants with osteoarthritis had a reduction in pain.

    High in Antioxidants

    While your body produces antioxidants on its own, changes in diet and increases in stress can leave your body out of whack. Antioxidants have been shown to help reduce the potential for chronic conditions in healthy people, meaning your risk of diseases such as type 2 diabetes or heart disease can be mitigated.

    Other Benefits

    Rose hips also strengthen capillaries, regulate blood circulation, and relieve teething problems in infants. Rose flowers also have a lot of healing benefits as well

    Medicinal Uses

    Rose hips have been historically used for many treatments. A few of these ailments include:

    • arthritis
    • heart disease
    • diabetes
    • menstrual cramping
    • varicose veins
    • bladder or urinary irritations
    Rosehip seed oilRosehip seed oil
    Rosehip seed oil is a great carrier oil to use in skincare recipes.

    How to Grow Rose Hips

    If you are growing hips in your own garden, do not use any chemical sprays or pesticides. Make sure that you grow natural, organic roses for edible purposes.

    Do not prune or cut back roses after blooming. The hips are coming. Get ready! You will see them decorating your rose plants in autumn, and can start picking them fresh at any time.

    Harvesting Tips

    The best time to harvest Rosa rugosa is in the winter when they turn soft, particularly after the first frost. But if you live somewhere with lots of rain, the rosehips can get soggy. If you’re growing a Rosa canina, then it’s best to pick them when they are firm and bright in colour.

    • Rose hips are ripe when they are bright red and soft to the touch.
    • Harvest them with pruners to protect the shape of your rose plant. You can harvest rose plants heavily, and they will thank you for it.
    • It’s best to prune them back in winter so that the new growth is delayed until spring.
    • Remember, roses come with thorns, so protect yourself with rose gloves, long trousers, a long-sleeved shirt, and closed-toe shoes.
    • Place the rose hips in a colander and rinse with water, and they are ready for use!

    LoriAnn, our herbalist mentor, also suggests abiding by the honourable harvest. Harvest only what you need in a way that doesn’t hurt the plant or the other wildlife that enjoys the rosehip.

    cup of fresh rose hip teacup of fresh rose hip tea
    Harvest only what you need, to leave behind enough for the plant and wildlife.

    Preparation Tips

    When preparing the rosehips, the hairs can get everywhere. To prevent this, try cutting the rosehips and then placing them in water. This way, you can scoop out the seeds and the hairs so that the hairs are not flying around.

    There are several different ways you can enjoy rose hips. Here are some of my favourites:

    Make Tea

    Perhaps the most popular usage of this edible is making tea. To make the rosehip tea, crush the hips with a pestle and mortar to help release the goodness. Then steep the rosehips in boiling water.

    Jams and Jellies

    You can also use rose hips to make preserves. It’s best to remove the seeds before you use them to make syrup, jams, and jellies. Wash, then trim off the two ends and slice them in half to remove the seeds.

    Dry Them

    While you will get the most rose hips benefits with fresh buds, you can also dry rose hips and keep them for use all year.

    After harvesting, wash the rose hips and cut off the blossom end and stem. Set them out in a single layer on a cookie sheet to dry for a few weeks in a cool, dark place.

    Or if you are in a hurry, add them to a food dehydrator until they are hard, wrinkly, and darker in colour.

    Add dried rose hips directly into hot water for tea, or grind dried hips into a powder using a food processor. Dried deseeded rosehips can be made into a delicious jam or added to a variety of dishes, including soups, sauces, and desserts.

    Add the dried rosehips to wet ingredients, or rehydrate them by mixing them with a little water so they are not hard in baked goods. You will be surprised to discover that powdered rosehips add depth and tartness to chili or black bean soup!

    Crafting Projects

    Not only are they good for you, but rose hips are also gorgeous! Check out this stunning Rose Hip Wreath as part of a round-up of Fabulous Fall Wreaths!

    Making a diy rose hips wreathMaking a diy rose hips wreath

    More Herbal Tips for Autumn

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • All About Alliums! Growing Ornamental and Edible Alliums – Garden Therapy

    All About Alliums! Growing Ornamental and Edible Alliums – Garden Therapy

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    Alliums are wonderful, unique-looking plants that come in a ton of different varieties. Their vibrant round purple flower heads stand out in the garden, and their seed heads make a stunning display. Plant them as bulbs this fall, and enjoy them next spring!

    Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    Alliums are everywhere in the garden. Some are a tasty addition to your favourite recipe (garlic, onions), some decorate the garden (ornamental alliums), and some are just plain weird (Egyptian walking onions). No matter how you use them, alliums are the perfect plant to pretty up your garden.

    Alliums are members of the onion family. Garlic, chives, and onions are all harvested for their tasty and fragrant leaves and bulbs, but many gardeners also grow them because of their attractive flower heads.

    Chives are often grown throughout the garden because of their purple pompom flowers that look decorative in the garden bed. Even better, onions and garlic are unappealing to garden pests like rodents, deer, and many insects. These easy-care plants don’t have a lot of natural pests, making them even more attractive to gardeners.

    There’s a lot to know about alliums, so let’s dive into it!

    Sponsored content: thank you to flowerbulbs.com for providing some of the lovely photos for this post! Flowerbulbs.com is an extremely helpful resource for learning about new flower bulbs and helps to support European bulb growers. 

    Growing Ornamental Alliums

    There are other members of the allium family that don’t have the flavour but do have decorative bursts of flowers above a thin stock. Ornamental onions are prized in the garden for their interesting round purple flower heads, their attractiveness to bees and other pollinators, and, especially, for their dried seed heads.

    Check the cultivars sold in your area; there are some for Zones 3 to 9. Allium plants aren’t picky about soil but they do love the sun!

    all about alliumsall about alliums
    Grow alliums from bulbs.

    Alliums range in colour from shades of blue, purple, white, and yellow. The flower heads are usually round but can be drumstick-shaped perfect-globe round, or even a nodding crown.

    Typically, the flower heads themselves won’t smell much like onion, but the foliage might. Even then, you have to crush it to get that fragrant smell. You may notice it when working alongside your allium flowers when disturbing the leaves.

    The size of the blooms is also what makes them quite special. They can range from one foot tall to up to six feet tall. Some of the shorties aren’t necessarily teeny tiny flowers, either.

    One of my very favourite ones is A. schubertii, which grows only about one to three feet tall and is mostly a huge 18” diameter explosion of flowers. The dried seed head makes for an amazing sculpture to use in your home decor. You can expect to see your allium flower blooms in late spring or early summer.

    Planting Allium Flowers

    Alliums are usually planted from bulbs. They are planted in early autumn, normally quite deep in the ground, from two to four inches.

    It’s best to cluster bulbs together, with groupings of 12 to 25 small or 3-6 large looking the most attractive in the garden. You don’t need to worry about any kind of prep to the bulbs before planting, such as soaking. Once planted, give them a thorough watering after they’re in the ground.

    Of course, you can always plant a set of three into containers or in between other plantings. They look most impressive grouped together like a wave of fireworks celebrating above the garden.

    a guide to growing alliumsa guide to growing alliums
    Plant your allium bulbs in the fall and they will bloom in the spring.

    The foliage of allium plants isn’t that impressive and when the blooms die back it can look quite messy. They do best when planted in between a bunch of low-growing perennials with dense and interesting foliage to hide and distract from this.

    allium foliageallium foliage
    Allium in the stage between blooming and setting seed.

    Allium Plant Seeds

    Allium plants produce seeds that can be saved and sown in the garden; however, it will take several years for the plant to flower. By planting bulbs in the fall, you’ll have flowers the very next summer.

    close up of allium seedsclose up of allium seeds
    Let alliums dry fully and the seed heads will open.

    Some alliums produce bulbs on their heads after the flowers have faded. The Egyptian walking onion (A. × proliferum) is a great example of this. After the flower is finished they form small bulbs (called aerial bulbils) that get quite heavy on the top of the thin stock.

    The Egyptian walking onion then flops over and plants itself on the ground beside the mother plant, essentially walking around the garden. These bulbs can also be harvested and eaten.

    Treat the grouping of bulbs like a perennial clump and divide them when the clump becomes overcrowded. In my experience, allium plants only flower for a few years, so I do end up buying a few new bulbs every year or two to replenish the planting.

    Harvesting Seed Heads

    After your alliums have finished flowering, you can deadhead them if that’s what you prefer. Wait until the allium flower heads have lost all colour and have turned a yellow to brown. Simply snip off the whole stalk right to the ground and leave them as is. The bulb will remain dormant for the rest of the year and rest up until next spring.

    But, if you’re like me, you can also leave them as is after they have finished flowering! The seed heads themselves are gorgeous and add a different kind of texture to the garden.

    alliums have decorative seed headsalliums have decorative seed heads
    Alliums after they’ve finished flowering.

    Give it a try, and leave the decorative seed heads in the garden. They lose the purple colour but they have a sculpture, globe-like appeal.

    They can be harvested to use for crafts and flower arrangements as well. If you’d like to use them for arrangements, try to keep the stems as long as possible. The seed heads will last well in any arrangement without any need for sealer.

    The stem becomes woody and will be beautiful for years if kept indoors. Left unprotected outdoors, they will break down over the season. However, you can paint them to add colour and protection if you want to leave them outdoors.

    Painted alliumsPainted alliums
    Fully dried allium seed head.

    7 Types of Ornamental Alliums to Grow

    Here are a few of my favourite allium varieties to grow in the garden. Whether you want to eat them or just enjoy their decorative look, there are sure to be a few varieties that appeal to you.

    Garden with Alliums and RosesGarden with Alliums and Roses
    Many alliums grow tall and big. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    Drumstick

    Drumstick allium (A. sphaerocephalon) has an oblong, burgundy flower that reaches two feet high but is only one to two inches in diameter. They change from green to wine colour, looking decorative in the garden at all stages. Plant at least 25 of these small bulbs among perennial plants such as Hosta, Alchemilla or among ornamental grasses.

    • Flowering period: May – June
    • Average plant height: 24 inches
    • Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
    • Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
    • Light requirements: full sun
    drumstick alliumdrumstick allium
    Drumstick allium

    A. giganteum “Globemaster”

    A. giganteum, or ‘Globemaster,’ has huge 8” diameter round heads containing over 100 flowers on 4-foot tall stems. These are truly impressive onions! The foliage withers quickly as the plant blooms, so they are best towering over the back of a sunny border.

    • Flowering period: May – June
    • Average plant height: 68 inches
    • Planting depth to base of bulb: 8 inches
    • Spacing between bulbs: 12 inches
    • Light requirements: full sun
    globemaster allium in bloom globemaster allium in bloom
    Globemaster allium. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    A. shubertii

    A. shubertii, also known as Tumbleweed Onion, have short stalks but a flower head that looks like a fireworks display and produces a stunning seed head sculpture.

    • Flowering period: May – June
    • Average plant height: 16-20 inches
    • Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
    • Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches
    • Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
    Tumbleweed onion allium Tumbleweed onion allium
    Tumbleweed onion.

    A. christophii

    A profusely flowering allium species, its gray-green leaves remain attractive for a fairly long period. It is absolutely perfect for naturalizing in lightly shaded locations and in soil that remains sufficiently moist.

    • Flowering period: May – June
    • Average plant height: 12 inches
    • Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
    • Spacing between bulbs: 3 inches
    • Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
    Allium christophiiAllium christophii
    Allium christophii. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    A. ‘hair’

    Allium ‘hair’ is a weird and wonderful plant with green tentacle-like flowers. Some people call them aliens or Dr. Seuss plants, but they remind me of the Muppets!

    • Flowering period: April – June
    • Average plant height: 24 inches
    • Planting depth to base of bulb: 2 inches
    • Spacing between bulbs: 2 inches
    • Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
    Allium HairAllium Hair
    Allium ‘hair’. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    A. oreophilum

    A. oreophilum is a delicate yet brilliantly coloured flower that naturalizes easily.

    • Flowering period: May – June
    • average plant height: 8 inches
    • Planting depth to base of bulb: 4 inches
    • Spacing between bulbs: 4 inches
    • Type of bulb: true bulb
    • Light requirements: full sun
    Allium oreophilumAllium oreophilum
    Allium oreophilum. Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    A. karataviense

    A. karataviense is the ‘Ivory Queen.’ Very striking with dense, purple-gray flower colour, and spotted leaves. Ivory Queen has a wonderful scent, and it is the best variety for container gardens.

    • Flowering period: May – June
    • Average plant height: 10 inches
    • Planting depth to base of bulb: 6 inches
    • Spacing between bulbs: 8 inches
    • Type of bulb: true bulb
    • Light requirements: full sun to partial shade
    Allium Ivory QueenAllium Ivory Queen
    Allium ‘Ivory Queen.’ Photo courtesy of flowerbulbs.com

    A Few Edible Beauties

    Nodding onions (Allium cernuum) have delicate crowns of flowers that hang upside down or nod when in bloom.

    garden chivesgarden chives
    Garden chives.

    Garden chives (Allium schoenoprasum). Yes, that’s right, I have chives on this list because they are ornamental, hardy, edible, and great natural pest control! Plant clumps of chives all over your garden and pests will be sent packing while the bees feast (and you can too).

    Alliums FAQ

    Is allium garlic or onion?

    Both! Garlic and onions both belong to the Allium genus, which comprises more than 500 species, including other popular vegetables like shallots, chives, leeks, and scallions.

    Do alliums spread on their own?

    Many alliums will set seed and could spread, but it takes a few years for those plants to flower. Meanwhile, some varieties won’t spread at all. If you want alliums that spread, look for the word naturalizing when purchasing allium bulbs.

    What not to plant with alliums?

    Alliums are a wonderful companion plant, often deterring pests from your other nearby vegetables when planted close by. However, they shouldn’t be planted next to most plants in the legume family, including beans and peas. Also, keep them away from asparagus and sage.

    More Flowering Bulbs to Plant in Fall

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Plant These Speedy Fall Vegetables for a Last Hurrah!

    Plant These Speedy Fall Vegetables for a Last Hurrah!

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    Yes! You can still plant fall vegetables to harvest and eat this year! There is still time in the late summer and early fall to plant fast-growing edible plants in your vegetable garden and have them on your plate in just 15-30 days.

    There are many fall vegetables that you can get planted late in the season. And no, not just sprouts (but those are good too).

    These super nutritious garden growers are speedy enough to make something healthy and delicious for dinner in just a few weeks, even when planted from seed.

    Flavourful greens like spinach, arugula, Swiss chard, and mustard grow so fast that baby greens can be ready for harvest in just three to four weeks.

    Root veggies like radishes are known for their zip in spice and growing speed, but baby carrots, turnips, and beets also make it from soil to table pretty fast. Tender young turnips and beet greens are delightful in salads as well.

    But I’m getting ahead of myself! Here are the vegetables you can plant for a fall harvest.

    Heirloom Vegetables in a barrowHeirloom Vegetables in a barrow
    Fall is also the time to harvest your long growers, like pumpkin and squash.

    10 Speedy Fall Vegetables

    On this list, you’ll find many greens. The other thing that most people don’t consider is that you often don’t have to wait for vegetables to reach maturity to enjoy. Why not enjoy them baby-sized!?

    1. Baby Carrots

    30 Days

    For fall baby carrots, plant the seeds more densely than the instructions on the seed packet say. Harvest when the root is no more than three to four inches long, which is when baby carrots are at their sweetest and most tender.

    heirloom carrotsheirloom carrots
    I love a rainbow blend for carrots!

    2. Beets

    45 Days for Baby Greens, 60 Days for Baby Roots

    Pick baby beet greens when they are about four inches long (you can go smaller if you want to eat them fresh in salads or pick larger leaves for cooking).

    If you want to grow baby beetroots as well, only harvest one leaf from each plant as you wait for the roots to plump up underground. When the beets reach one inch in diameter, they are ready to eat. Pickle or roast them whole, or slice them small and add to salads fresh.

    3. Radishes

    21 Days

    Radishes are fabulously fast-growing root vegetables. Just three weeks in the ground and they are ready to harvest and eat. Try them raw in salads and thinly-sliced in sandwiches, pickle them, or roast them in butter for a real treat.

    4. Turnips

    40 Days for Baby Greens, 80 Days for Baby Roots

    Harvest baby greens when they are young and tender. The roots are ready to eat when they reach a one-inch diameter. Turnip baby greens are delicious in salads or pesto. Eat the roots fresh, steamed, or roasted.

    5. Swiss Chard

    30 Days

    Harvest the Swiss chard leaves when they are three inches long to eat fresh in salads, wraps, and sandwiches, or wait about 60 days until the leaves are ten inches long and steam them in garlic and butter for a delicious side dish.

    Stephanie Holding Harvested Swiss ChardStephanie Holding Harvested Swiss Chard
    Swiss chard grows well in cold climates, so it doesn’t mind the cool fall weather.

    6. Spinach

    30 Days

    Spinach won’t grow well in the heat of the summer, so it is a flavour that I always look forward to in the fall when temperatures are low enough to produce tasty, tender leaves. Sow densely and harvest the leaves when they fan out. Eat fresh, or steamed with a little butter and salt. Yum!

    7. Kale

    30 Days

    Kale can overwinter and become sweeter after the frost, so plant it in the fall for winter and harvest the tender baby leaves to eat before the temperature drops. Add kale to salads, wraps, sandwiches, and soups, or sauté it with a squirt of lemon or a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.

    Some vegetables taste sweeter after the first frost of the seasonSome vegetables taste sweeter after the first frost of the season
    I like to plant a second round of kale mid to late summer to enjoy in the fall.

    8. Mustard Greens

    20 Days

    Mustard greens are as ornamental as they are tasty, with their frilly foliage in shades of green and red. Plant densely and harvest the young, tender leaves. These spicy greens will add a punch to fresh dishes.

    9. Lettuce

    20 Days

    Sow a mix of lettuce seeds densely for a cut-and-come-again salad garden. Snip micro greens as soon as true leaves have formed if you like, and about a week after that, you’ll have baby lettuce leaves to eat up.

    lettuce growing in a containerlettuce growing in a container
    This lettuce is already ready to eat after a few weeks.

    10. Arugula

    28 Days

    Plant and harvest baby arugula the same way you do lettuce. Its spicy, nutty flavour pairs perfectly with warm roasted veggies topped with Parmesan and olive oil. For a fresh kick, add it to a tomato-heavy salad.

    FAQ About Planting Fall Vegetables

    What vegetables are in season in the fall?

    It’s always a good idea to stock up on vegetables when they’re in season, and to enjoy them while they’re fresh and taste the best. In the fall, some seasonal vegetables include carrots, turnips, parsnips, beets, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, cabbage, celery, eggplant, zucchini, chard, kale, lettuce, spinach, green beans, onions, potatoes, radishes, peppers, pumpkins, squash, and wild mushrooms.

    Should I sow my fall vegetables directly into the ground?

    Yes! These speedy vegetables all like cooler temperatures and will do best directly sown. Starting them indoors would just slow you down.

    When can I plant fall vegetables?

    If you really want to plan ahead, you can begin to plant fall vegetables when there’s about a month of hot weather left. Most fall vegetables (like greens) prefer cooler temperatures, but warm temperatures will encourage the seeds to sprout, while they will reach maturity in the cooler temperatures they prefer.

    With these fast-growing fall veggies, you can still feast on garden-fresh produce for months to come. Hey, but you can still grow edibles indoors too if you want!

    More Tips for Fall Gardening

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    Stephanie Rose

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  • Vertical Garden Bed: a Unique Raised Garden You’ve Got to See

    Vertical Garden Bed: a Unique Raised Garden You’ve Got to See

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    Often, budding gardeners will think they need the perfect piece of land to start growing, but that isn’t the case at all. I know this because my own vegetable garden is contained to a small, rather odd piece of land. I had to get a bit creative with how I built it. As I couldn’t move out, I had to grow it up. Here’s my unique vertical garden and tips for creating your own. You’ll never believe how much food can be grown in a small space until you see my unique raised garden bed!

    This post has been a long time in the making. It’s taken plenty of trial and error to come to this point, but I hope this information is helpful and inspiring to those of you with small spaces or uniquely shaped gardens.

    For me, this raised bed planter is a unique solution that was born out of necessity. This area is an awkward small space, but now you wouldn’t believe how much food it produces!

    Update! This vertical garden was left behind for the new homeowners in my previous garden, but it was one of my favourite creations.

    Let me show you exactly how my vertical garden bed all came together!

    Produce harvested from raised garden beds such as cucamelons, edible flowers, peppers, and cherry tomatoes.Produce harvested from raised garden beds such as cucamelons, edible flowers, peppers, and cherry tomatoes.
    This harvest all came from my vertical garden bed.

    Why I Created This Unique Vertical Garden

    Let me back up and explain how I got to this point with my vertical garden set up. Previously, the vegetable garden space was situated on a long strip of soil that is the only part of the garden that gets full sun.

    The original set up only allowed for 20 sq ft of garden space which is not nearly enough for me. Now, the garden has more than doubled that square footage by using creative vertical raised beds!

    The garden in my home was designed without much thought for the sun. A south-facing backyard has always been my dream garden, and yet, with this space, it has been an ongoing challenge.

    Isn’t that always the case? You finally get that dream garden and it has its own set of unique issues.

    Woman picking fresh produce from a raised garden bedWoman picking fresh produce from a raised garden bed
    The bottom beds of my planter are just above ground level.

    Gardening in the Sun vs the Shade

    I like to have the sun on my plants and shade on my fair, freckled skin. I get pretty warm in the summer months when it gets hot, and so I’m always seeking out the shade.

    When I moved into this home I quickly realized that the existing design in the garden was the opposite of that. The sunny garden beds on the south side of the property were planted with trees. They didn’t do anything to shade the lawn and the upper deck which got hot blazing sun all day long through midsummer but created deep shade in the garden. UGH.

    Vertical garden with three stacked raised bedsVertical garden with three stacked raised beds
    The actual square footage this planter takes up is very little.

    Why I Made a Vertical Garden

    The design in my backyard had a 20 foot by 5 foot section of the garden for growing vegetables. This would have been just fine except that the area is also elevated. This particular area is raised off the ground by 5 feet. There was no fencing around the edge of the garden and the previous owners had a raised plank in the middle of the bed to reach both sides of the vegetable garden.

    Imagine you’re five feet up from the ground with no fence and you’re now raised an extra 6 inches up on a platform reaching down to get it the vegetables below.

    It was not only a little bit nerve-wracking to garden in the space, but it didn’t take long for my back to ache like crazy.

    So, I came up with a design that had two long raised beds along either side of the garden with a gravel walkway in between.

    That still didn’t give enough space to plant vegetables. Each bed was 20 ft long and about 12 to 18 ft wide. In a square foot garden that means about 30-40 plants.

    I couldn’t go out any further, so my only choice was to grow up, turning one bed into a three-level raised bed. This gave me an extra 40 square feet of vegetable garden, essentially doubling the space.

    Peas and cucamelons trellised in a raised garden bedPeas and cucamelons trellised in a raised garden bed
    The “normal” bed, on the other side of the path, allows me to grow my vining vegetables such as peas.

    How to Build a Vertical Garden

    First, let me preface by saying building a three-tier raised bed that’s 20 feet long is not easy. I’ll admit it was not cheap either. However, the cost and effort were more than worth it for the finished product.

    Each box is 12 in wide and 20 in long.  To make installation as easy as possible, they were built in 10-foot-long sections that were then connected together.

    To support the raised garden beds, I have mounted copper supports on the ends of each as well as in the middle where the two 10-foot-long beds are connected. The beds are also bolted to the fence behind, where my neighbour grows a grapevine—all this to say that the vertical garden beds are very sturdy.

    Woman harvesting chard from a vertical garden bedWoman harvesting chard from a vertical garden bed
    Swiss chard is a favourite veggie of mine to grow fresh.

    How to Care for a Vertical Garden

    Let’s talk about how to care for the plants growing in a vertical garden like this one, because there are special considerations if you use this design. There are challenges with sunlight, water, and airflow that I have needed to overcome.

    Snow peas dangling down on a vine from a raised garden bedSnow peas dangling down on a vine from a raised garden bed
    Snow peas in my vertical garden bed.

    Sunlight Needs for a Vertical Garden

    Just over half of the beds get full sun. The top of the three tiers gets full sun all summer long. The south-facing parts of the bottom two tiers also get full sun. And the single bed on the other side gets full sun.

    The middle, back of the middle and bottom tiers, however, is a different story. These areas get mostly shade from the box above but also the grapevine that grows on the neighbour’s fence.

    So when I’m planning out my garden I’m sure to include my sun lovers in the sunny parts of the beds, and edible flowers, lettuces, and shade-tolerant herbs in the second and bottom level.

    Again, this all took some trial and error to get right. I originally planted strawberries on the bottom level because it was a great height for my son to pick berries from when he was young. Sadly, the shaded berries were always bland and small without enough hot summer sun, so they had to be relocated. Now, they are thriving once again!

    Strawberries growing in the top compartment of a raised garden bed.Strawberries growing in the top compartment of a raised garden bed.
    Strawberries didn’t grow well in this vertical bed on the bottom level.

    How to Water a Vertical Garden

    Watering is also a bit of a challenge with the second two tiers. Obviously they don’t get rainfall, which is something that I count on living in the Pacific Northwest when it rains much of the year.

    Truthfully, I don’t do a lot of watering in my garden in general. Much of the gardens are established and drought-tolerant. Of course, vegetables and annuals need a lot of water through the growing season.

    Use Rain

    I tend to plan my vegetable garden planting so that I’m planting seeds and transplants right before it rains. This way, the spring rains really help to plump up and settle the new plants.

    Since the second and third rows don’t get any of that rain. I have to care for those differently. If there’s enough rain, the second bed will get a little bit of overflow drip from the top raised garden bed.

    When there’s a downpour, some of that overflow will even drip down from that second bed into the third. However, in general, I need to have supplemental water all year round for the second and third rows if I want to grow anything in the rainy season.

    A pile of freshly harvested currant tomatoesA pile of freshly harvested currant tomatoes

    Watering Systems

    I set up two different watering systems to support the beds.

    The first was a solar-powered drip system attached to a rain barrel. This is a great system because when the weather is sunny and hot, it triggers the watering system to go on automatically with water collected in the rain barrels. The sunnier it is, the more it waters the garden. Pretty smart!

    The only issue with this system was that it broke down after just a year. As it was quite expensive, it wasn’t something that I wanted to keep repairing and working on every year. Instead, I’ve run soaker hoses through the beds and just turn on the drip system.

    I use timers in the summer so that they can go on automatically when they really need that extra water.

    Yellow beans hanging out of a wooden raised garden bed.Yellow beans hanging out of a wooden raised garden bed.
    Yellow beans in the vertical garden bed.

    Providing Airflow in Raised Garden Beds

    This raised bed design was meant to be open enough so that there were 18 inches above the top of the soil for the plants to grow before they would hit the top of the next bed. This gives lots of room for small shorter plants such as violas and pansies, as well as edible flowers, baby lettuces, radishes, and low-growing greens.

    However, you can never plan for (or control) what happens on the other side of your fence. My neighbour has some moss-covered windows blocking the garden beds.

    In theory, I think this is to keep our cat out of her garden, but sadly, all it does is restrict the airflow to the bottom bed. So far, everything has grown okay, but it’s certainly something to consider.

    Lettuce seedlings growing in a raised garden bed.Lettuce seedlings growing in a raised garden bed.
    Lettuce seedlings growing in the vertical garden bed.

    What to Plant in a Stacked Vertical Garden

    Harvesting food from this garden is so simple and fun! It’s easy on my back, for starters. I often get asked how I reach the upper beds, and the answer to that is simple. I climb up onto the bottom beds and can easily reach the plants at the top to harvest the food.

    Woman with hat harvesting red peppers from the top section of a vertical garden bed.Woman with hat harvesting red peppers from the top section of a vertical garden bed.
    Some the middle tier, I can garden without bending down!

    In the upper beds, I usually plant decorative and short-growing peppers, along with tumbling tomatoes or smaller-sized tomatoes. I also put other sun-lovers up there, like eggplant and garlic.

    Because the beds are raised up, I don’t trellis peas and beans up. Instead, I let them grow down. I can then easily pick them from the garden below! This is one of my favourite ways to plant trellising veggies. You can do the same method in hanging baskets too.

    Currant tomato vine dangling down the side of a raised vertical gardenCurrant tomato vine dangling down the side of a raised vertical garden
    Your vegetables can hang down, making them easy to access from the top tier.

    My favourite vegetables to grow in the garden are:

    I get a great harvest by planting all of these in the raised garden beds. This organic, homegrown food will feed us for most of the summer months.

    Basket full of freshly harvested veggies such as lettuce, edible flowers, peppers, and cucamelonBasket full of freshly harvested veggies such as lettuce, edible flowers, peppers, and cucamelon
    Look at this full harvest from my vertical garden bed!

    Vertical Garden: a Fun Way to Garden in Raised Garden Beds

    The vegetable garden is always a show stopper when my garden is part of garden tours or when friends come over to visit. My friend Tara Nolan who wrote the best-selling book Raised Bed Revolution, got particularly excited when she saw it. She even took photos of it to share on her social media.

    Truly, despite all the challenges and effort to set up, I love this space. I hope you did as well!

    Stephanie Rose Vegetable GardenStephanie Rose Vegetable Garden

    vertical garden with three raised beds stacked togethervertical garden with three raised beds stacked together

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    Stephanie Rose

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