Chicagoans have hit the culinary jackpot with a dazzling array of regional Mexican dishes available at their fingertips including strong local representation from states like Guerrero, Jalisco, and Michoacán. Dive deeper, and you’ll find more specific offerings, hailing from narrow regions and even small towns.
Uptown’s Kie-Gol-Lanee has ignited interest in Oaxacan cuisine as siblings María and Reynel Mendoza and their spouses, Léonides Ramos and Sandra Sotz, have dished out flavors from Santa María Quiegolani since 2016. Meaning “old stone” in the Zapotec dialect, the restaurant’s name is a phonetic nod to the small village in Oaxaca’s southern Sierra where María, Reynel, and Léonides grew up. The menu is inspired by recipes passed down through generations and Michelin has listed it for four years as a Bib Gourmand, which recognizes quality and value.
More and more Oaxacan restaurants are opening in Chicago.
Tlacoyo with nopoles.
Tamales oaxaquenos.
Carne asada tlayuda.
Later this month, the family will open its second location in Logan Square at the former Mezcala Agave Bar and Kitchen at 2901 W. Diversey. The new location will continue to sell its celebrated Oaxacan-style tamales steamed in banana leaves, and garnachas (a corn patty resembling a sope topped with pork, radish, cilantro, cheese, and cabbage). María Mendoza began making the Oaxacan delicacy at home after an injury kept her from going to work. A friend sent a sample to chef Enrique Cortéz, who was impressed by her culinary skills and began serving the tamales at his restaurant. Soon after, Cortéz moved on and decided to sell his eatery to the family, helping them through the transition from restaurant workers to restaurant owners.
The Logan Square restaurant will offer the beloved plates that delight patrons at its Uptown location, featuring weekly specials and breakfast plates on weekends. The dinner menu features well-known regional staples including a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank, and the traditional tlayudas — a giant corn tostada-like base decked out with options that include thinly sliced, salt-cured cecina, steak, chorizo, or zucchini and mushrooms. Additionally, the menu offers interesting dishes that showcase ingredients from the Oaxacan Sierra, such as quail, rabbit, and grasshoppers.
Ahead of the opening, the team is working on new cocktails such as a tres leches martini, an old-fashioned Oaxacan style, and a drink featuring the fermented, sweet, and slightly tart, cider-like tepache with grasshoppers. Wishing to support their community back home, Kie-Go-Lanee has two mezcal brands on its beverage menu, Huésped and Clan 55. Both are produced in Santa María Quiegolani and aim to offer youth in their hometown an opportunity to flourish and a reason to stay.
When it comes to desserts, until very recently, Kie-Go-Lanee was one of the few, if not the only spot in the city that regularly offered Nicuatole, a corn-based dessert similar to gelatin but with a silkier texture and, depending on the fruit added, sometimes a bit of a gritty texture.
The new location will continue to capture the warmth of an Oaxacan home, says Fernanda Guardado, the restaurant’s designer and head of marketing. A mural depicting alebrijes, sculptures of creatures — amalgamations of different animals that burst with vibrant colors and cultural motifs — will also be found at the second location, showcasing the restaurant’s blue and bright pink. “They remind me of home,” says María Mendoza.
Check out the food photos below and stay tuned for updates on an opening date.
The best bars and restaurants to cheer on Olympic athletes at the Paris Summer Games
Just because Chicago sports teams are awful doesn’t mean fans of sport have nothing to root for — 2024 is an Olympic year and we can all enjoy the Paris Summer Games. Much of the action will be televised live during the day. The games go through Sunday, August 11. Check out these bars which will support your Olympic-watching habits.
GoodFunk serves a regularly rotating selection of natural wine alongside sibling spot Beatnik on the River.|
GoodFunk
One thing’s for certain: Chicago can never have too many wine bars. For almost 30 years, they’ve been one of the city’s top destinations for first dates, special occasions, civilized girls’ night out festivities, and more. Plus, if you’re rolling solo, you’ll be hard-pressed to stay that way for long.
Wine bars tend to be ideal spots to make friends fast — including with the people who work there. Everyone’s enthusiastic to chat about their favorite wines and adventures with vino, and if you’re super lucky, someone’s guaranteed to share a bottle. Peruse Eater Chicago’s selections for the best places to sip and swirl around town.
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There will be plenty of food and drink vendors and with several food-focused festivities outside of the confines of Grant Park Chow Town — along with a band or two — at this year’s Lollapalooza, which runs from Thursday, August 1 to Sunday, August 4.
Take advantage of the fest-related specials, which range from pre- and after-parties to artist-inspired cocktails and a croissant collab, and scope out restaurants around Grant Park to refuel before or after a show.
Specials and after-parties
Beatrix, Beatrix Market: Those heading to Lollapalooza can use their wristband to buy a $1 cold brew. On Thursday and Friday, head to Beatrix (Loop), Beatrix Market Loop, or DePaul locations; on Saturday and Sunday, the deal is at at Beatrix locations in River North, Streeterville, and Fulton Market.
Beatrix
Rotisserie Ema: Cool down with $1 frozen Greek yogurt topped with olive oil and sea salt from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Friday at this Mediterranean restaurant in River North.
Tao Chicago: This multi-level nightclub in River North gets into the Lolla spirit with after-show parties each night. Thursday features Loud Luxury with Canadian DJ duo Andrew Fedyk and Joe Depace, ZEDD on Friday, and Metro Boomin on Saturday. Doors open at 10 p.m. Tickets are available online.
Tao Chicago
Cindy’s Rooftop: Embrace the Lolla vibe early with Just.One, a Chicago open-format/R&B DJ set, on Wednesday, July 31 from 7:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Part of the Chicago Athletic Association hotel’s In the Sky DJ series, the monthly terrace party offers with views of the Navy Pier fireworks as well as Millennium Park below. Try it out with one of six specialty cocktails inspired by performers — a single malt whiskey-forward Take Me to Church, perhaps? — from Thursday through Sunday.
Time Out Market: Honor the Chicago-born phenomenon of house music, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, with a festival after-party on Thursday, August 1. The West Loop food hall will transform into a three-level pop-up venue filled with food and music. Chicago house legends Felix Da Housecat, NEZ, and special guests Vic Mensa will be, um, in the house.
Daisies: Croissant-collab extraordinaire Leigh Omilinsky works her pastry magic with Killer Mike of Run the Jewels (performing at the festival on Saturday, August 3) on a flaky croissant filled with grapefruit cream and tossed in lime-raspberry sugar. The croissant is a partnership with the launch of Run the Jewels’ new Juice Runners canned paloma cocktail. Both are available throughout August at Daisies in Logan Square.
Welcome to the Farm: This brand new River North spot from athletes Jimmy Butler and Roquan Smith and musician Chase Rice features two official Lollapalooza after-parties this weekend. On Friday, DJ Brandi Cyrus hosts the festivities. On Saturday, it’s Travis Barker, who will do a live drum set with DJ Spider. Doors open at 8 p.m.
Pendry Chicago: This boutique Michigan Avenue hotel celebrates Lolla with headliner-inspired drinks at Bar Pendry, its lobby-level cocktail lounge, and rooftop oasis Chateau Carbide. Try cocktails like Red Hot Chili Peppers-inspired Mezcalification with a savory lineup of skewers.
Pizzeria Portofino: Inspired by the custom pizza that singer-songwriter Benson Boone (performing at Lolla on Thursday) created earlier this year at this lavish riverside pizza palace, Benson’s Beautiful Pizza is topped with marinara, Italian sausage, red onions, mozzarella cheese, artichoke hearts, and Parmesan. Sprinter Vodka Seltzers will be available for $10 as well as a group-sized drink the Portofino Purse for $85.
Singer-songwriter Benson Boone is back in Chicago for Lollapalooza. Lindsay Eberly/Pizzeria Portofino
RPM Italian: No stranger to visits by Lollapalooza artists over the years, this River North restaurant answers the call for vegetarian and vegan offerings with specials like rigatoni pomodoro and focaccia de Roma, available Thursday through Sunday.
Spin Chicago: This River North ping pong club offers thePerry Bomb, a play on a vodka-based cherry bomb named after Lollapalooza founder Perry Farrell, for $13 from Thursday through Saturday.
The Blackstone Hotel: Bespoke bouquet brand Floriography Fellows is setting up shop outside this Michigan Avenue hotel with flower crowns made from locally sourced fresh and dried flowers. Each crown has a special meaning, drawing from the Victorian-era language of flowers. The stand will be open from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Friday and from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Swadesi: This new West Loop Indian cafe from chef Sujan Sarkar will offer a special Lolla lavender lychee lemonade with butterfly pea flower in addition to regular menu items like chicken tikka toasties, butter chicken croissants, and jaggery chocolate chip cookies.
Nearby Restaurants
Tanta: From 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. on Thursday and Friday take advantage of discounted Peruvian snacks and drinks — think ceviche, empanadas, and pisco sours — at this River North restaurant’s popular happy hour. Or, go for weekend brunch, including a bottomless mimosa special. There are live DJ sets on Saturday.
Tzuco: This upscale Mexican restaurant from decorated chef Carlos Gaytán offers a popular weekend brunch with hits like chilaquiles and lobster tacos. It features happy hour specials from 4 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Friday with small plates (think tuna tostadas and chicharrón de pulpo), sangria, and margaritas.
Ummo: This contemporary Italian restaurant is designed to please a crowd with classic dishes such as fresh pasta next to more modern spins like octopus carpaccio. Creativity continues at its weekend brunch with sweet (pistachio custard-stuffed bombolone) and savory (lamb shakshuka) dishes. Upstairs, Loft 22 pairs vinyl sessions, live music, and cocktails in a stylish setting.
The Smith: On weekdays from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., this River North restaurant offers discounted specialty martinis and hearty bites (black truffle arancini, potato chips with blue cheese fondue) during its martini hour. Weekend brunch options include shrimp and grits, potato waffle Benedicts, and vanilla bean French toast.
Three Dots and a Dash: This River North lounge leans heavily into a tropical vibe, both in its rum cocktails — think cold-pressed juices, tropical fruits, and fancy spirits — and its kitschy interior design. Its “secret” entrance via an alley adds to its charm.
Casa Chi: New on the scene, this cocktail lounge on the ground floor of the InterContinental Chicago Magnificent Mile from restaurateur Richard Sandoval explores Peru’s Nikkei cuisine, which combines Japanese and Peruvian ingredients. Cocktails take center stage, although there’s a small menu of flavorful snacks, with a robust agave-forward tequila and mezcal list, available in flights, tastings, and mixed drinks.
Kindling: James Beard Award-winning chef Jonathon Sawyer heads up the kitchen at this Willis Tower restaurant with a variety of wood-fired dishes from the live-fire kitchen. Happy hour at the bar from 3 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. Monday through Friday features a selection of specially priced dishes and drinks such as Nashville hot chicken tenders, crispy Brussels sprouts, and Aperol spritzes.
Vol. 39
Vol. 39: Located on the second floor of the Loop’s Kimpton Gray Hotel, itself a historic building, this cocktail bar and lounge offers an extensive selection of high-end wine and spirits. Look for bespoke cocktails with a nod to the classics as well as a menu of small plates.
The Dearborn: The Lawless sisters, Clodagh and Amy, operate a gorgeous American tavern near the Washington Blue and Red Line stops at the Block 37 development in Downtown Chicago. Brunch is a specialty at the Dearborn with dishes like fried chicken and waffles, fried perch Benedict, and PB&J French toast.
Jiao by Qing Xiang Yuan Dumplings: Qing Xiang Yuan, shortened to QXY, is a favorite for handmade dumplings. For many, it’s the first restaurant visitors patronize when visiting Chicago’s Chinatown. Ownership saw how customers outside of the neighborhood loved coriander-lamb dumplings and other items, so they created Jiao in the Loop with hopes of opening more locations across the country. This is a great spot for a quick and filling meal.
The Gage and Acanto: The Gage is a handsome Irish restaurant and pub right across the street from Millennium Park and is an excellent pitstop for a pint of Guinness, a bite, or a full meal. Billy Lawless (The Dawson) also owns Italian restaurant Acanto next door, which offers a standout wine program. Both feature a patio with views of the park.
Hot Woks Cool Sushi: Offering a variety of Japanese and Thai dishes at easy-on-the-wallet prices, the Michigan Avenue location of this family-owned restaurant chainlet is walking distance from the festival. Signature dishes at Hot Woks Cool Sushi range from pad Thai and spicy chicken wings to crunchy spicy tuna maki.
Miller’s Pub: A beloved Chicago institution for almost 90 years, Miller’s Pub is a must-visit spot whether you’re here for Lolla or not. Located in the Loop, Miller’s attracts locals and visitors alike, who come for an after-work cocktail, post-theater burger, or a nightcap. Vintage oil paintings, stained glass, and lots of dark wood provide a charming setting for dishes such as Greek chicken, build-your-own burgers, and prime rib French dip.
Brightwok Kitchen: This Asian assembly line restaurant is gluten-free with tons of vegetarian options. It’s a make-your-own stir fry concept with fresh ingredients and sauces made on-site. Brightwok Kitchen is good for folks with tight dietary needs.
Bien Me Sabe Venezuelan Arepa Bar: A favorite of several Latin American baseball players on the Chicago White Sox, Bien Me Sabe Venezuelan Arepa Bar features a deep selection of Venezuela’s signature dish, arepas, including gluten-free and vegetarian options. Ceviche, tostones, and empanaditas round out the menu.
Exchequer Restaurant & Pub: Only a handful of names are associated with Chicago outside of the city. Barack Obama and Michael Jordan are easy marks. But Chicago’s gangster ties still make Al Capone a figure many connect with the city. Exchequer only opened in 1982, but the building allegedly housed a speakeasy that Capone and his goons would frequent. The pub serves thin pizzas, barbecue ribs, salads, and more.
Cafecito: This Latin coffee shop and counter-service restaurant is a good bet for a quick breakfast or lunch with pressed sandwiches, including fan-favorite Cuban, lechon, and choripan. Breakfast features a handful of egg-focused sandwiches. Cafecito has three Chicago locations.
Mercat a la Planxa: Mercat a la Planxa is a Spanish stalwart just a touch south on Michigan Avenue with plenty of small tapas-style plates, large meals, and cocktails and wine. Sit down in the colorful dining room with views of the park across the street or order a drink at the secluded downstairs bar.
Roots Handmade Pizza – South Loop: Quad Cities thin-crust pizza cut into puffy strips is the specialty of Roots. Its unique style has made the pizzeria popular for families across Chicago. This South Loop/Printer’s Row location has a gorgeous patio space with a retractable roof as well as a sidewalk patio.
Devil Dawgs on State: Yes, folks can grab a hot dog at fest, but why fight those lines? Devil Dawgs is a Chicago mini-chain that does a proper dog dragged through the garden with all the toppings that the city is known for. The South State location is where to stop to try some genuine Chicago street fare.
Eleven City Diner: Eleven City Diner offers classic diner fare with Jewish deli classics like hearty pastrami and corned beef sandwiches. Breakfast is served all day and includes lox platters, bagels, soups, salads, and more.
Lowcountry South Loop: Lowcountry was one of Chicago’s first places for Asian Cajun seafood boils. This is the second location (there’s one in Wrigleyville and another in Chinatown), and the restaurant also serves refreshing cocktails.
Aurelio’s Pizza: Chicago loves its deep-dish pizza, but the city has more than one pizza style. Crispy square-cut tavern style pies are a South Side invention, and Aurelio’s Pizza is among the premier pizza makers in the city. Up the Chicago vibe and get it with giardiniera.
Minghin Cuisine: Minghin has several locations around Chicago and specializes in dim sum cart service. The decor has all the trappings of a traditional Chinese restaurant, including the Lazy Susan trays. This is a dumpling lover’s delight; the steamed shrimp are among the top selections.
Flo & Santos: Those with an appetite for South Side Chicago cuisine will want to visit Flo & Santo’s. There are pierogis, pork wings, and tavern-style pizzas at this popular restaurant that features an outside beer garden and daily drink specials.
Victory Tap: Some of Chicago’s best Italian American food comes from the throwback Victory Tap. The pastas are fresh, service is great, and the drinks are stiff. The spacious bar offers plenty of seating for walk-ins.
AO Hawaiian Hideout: This restaurant serves up poke, barbecue, Japanese teriyaki, and Thai noodles. The space is casual and has a large vegan menu. The tropical drink selection is also a bit nostalgic and feels like a Cantonese restaurant from the ’80s. Daily specials from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. include Tropical Thursdays ($6 tropical cocktails) and Freaki Tiki Friday ($6 pineapple shandy beer).
Miru: Inside the fancy St. Regis Hotel Chicago at the start of Upper Wacker Drive and overlooking Lake Michigan, this luxe restaurant focuses on sushi with a few American accents, including a cheeseburger at lunch. The all-day restaurant offers traditional dishes, including a Japanese breakfast with rice and King salmon. The views here are gorgeous, and this is where rapper Drake first enjoyed a shot of Malört. (Note: ‘Enjoyed’ might be embellishing.) On Sunday, August 4, brunch service will be paired with a live DJ on the terrace starting at 10 a.m.
Avli on The Park: Avli is a Greek American blockbuster hit with multiple locations. The Lakeshore East location differs as it has a larger bar space and an outdoor deck for private events. Fun wines, nice cocktails, and dependable modern Greek small plates make Avli a great choice for dinner and weekend brunch.
Reggie’s: Formerly a run-down auto repair shop, this multi-level South Loop spot has earned plenty of fans for its live music, laidback vibe, and wallet-friendly drinks and food. Its rooftop deck is a refreshing alternative to the city’s fancy (read: pricy) spots with free pool, bags, and basketball hoop. Cool off at the outdoor shower.
It’s not like celebrated international chef Richard Sandoval planned to open two Chicago restaurants back-to-back. But when the opportunity to launch Toro Chicago inside Streeterville’s Fairmont Chicago, Millennium Park came about, he couldn’t refuse.
In May, Sandoval opened Casa Chi in the InterContinental Chicago Magnificent Mile. It replaced Eno Wine Bar with a focus on Nikkei cuisine that interprets Peruvian ingredients through a Japanese lens — a reflection of the Japanese immigrants who moved to the South American country.
Set to open this fall, Toro Chicago will take a pan-Latin approach to its food and beverage, drawing inspiration from Central and South American countries including Colombia, Mexico, Argentina, Brazil, Peru, and Venezuela.
“You take off running and you never know what’s going to happen,” says Sandoval of the dual restaurant timelines.
There are some 60 restaurants, including several Toro locations, under the Richard Sandoval Hospitality umbrella around the world. While there is plenty of overlap between the menus there are differences too.
“With this brand, we always leave about 30 percent of the menu to localize it,” says Sandoval, adding that everybody looks at Latin American cuisine differently depending on their location. “For example, Mexican food in New York is different than Mexican food in LA It’s understanding these things and creating menu items that reflect that.” At Toro Chicago, that will involve a strong meat component, he says.
Toro Chicago will draw on the cuisines of countries like Colombia, Argentina, Peru, and Venezuela. KTGY/Toro Chicago
Signature Toro dishes that will be on the Chicago menu include Nikkei-inspired angry scorpion Toro roll (crab, cucumber, avocado, and spicy tuna topped with eel sauce), corn- and ají amarillo-filled empanadas garnished with a chimichurri sauce, and lomo saltado, a Peruvian-style dish of beef tenderloin served on a bed of creamy rice topped with crispy potato and spicy rocoto pepper aioli.
Cocktails at Toro Chicago will follow a similar Latin approach. “It’s a lot of playing with South and Central American ingredients,” says Sandoval. “Our mixologists are very creative, so you can expect a cocktail program that is very engaging and visual.” Toro’s Mercado Margarita includes jalapeño-infused El Jimador Blanco tequila topped with a pink hibiscus rosemary foam that slowly melts into the yellow passion fruit in the cocktail.
Like other Toro locations, the Chicago restaurant’s interior design will be colorful with a mix of bold Latin American textiles. The space will seat about 260 guests with two private rooms for 14 and 50.
“I really enjoyed being in Chicago, so when I got the opportunity to come back, I jumped at it,” he says. “I like big cities, but Chicago, to me, is a little calmer. Plus, I think there’s a great food scene here that over the last 15 years or so has really come around.”
Summer is generally a bustling season in Chicago hospitality, though bars and restaurants close for myriad reasons, even during the balmiest time of year. Below, Eater is cataloging both temporary and permanent restaurant closures in Chicago. If you know of a restaurant, bar, or another closed food establishment, please email chicago@eater.com. We will continue to update this post.
Andersonville: Tiny neighborhood cocktail spot Marty’s Martini Bar will close on Labor Day, Monday, September 2, after two decades at 1511 W. Balmoral Avenue ahead of a relocation to a new space blocks away. Marty’s founder Marty Rogo has sold the bar to 2Bears Tavern Group owners Mike Sullivan and Mark Robertson, also behind LGBTQ-focused 2Bears Tavern in Uptown, Andersonville’s SoFo Tap and Meeting House Tavern, and Jackhammer in Rogers Park, the trio announced on Facebook. They also shared Marty’s new location about 10 minutes from the original at 1477 W. Winnemac Avenue but an opening date is not yet available.
Bucktown: Char-broiled chicken specialist Nick’s Pit Stop is permanently closed after 27 years in business, the owners announced on Facebook. Owner Yolanda Resendiz, who has operated the restaurant for a decade at 2023 N. Damen Avenue, and her landlords couldn’t agree on terms to cover a possible property tax increase, according to Block Club Chicago. “While this may be goodbye for now, we are exploring the possibility of returning in the future,” owners write. “Please stay tuned and support us as we navigate this new chapter.”
Lakeview: Red sauce Italian stalwart La Gondola is closed after 40 years at 2914 N. Ashland Avenue, owners announced on Instagram, much to the dismay of fans who poured sorrows into the comments section. But the restaurant’s story isn’t over, as the team is serving hit dishes (and eventually pizzas) out of Mirella’s Tavern on Division Street in Wicker Park.
July 16
Lakeview: Meaty neighborhood restaurant Select Cut Steakhouses will permanently close on Wednesday, July 31 at 2808 N Halsted Street after nearly three decades in business, owners announced on Instagram. “After almost 30 years Select Cut will be closing by the end of July,” they write in part. “It’s bittersweet to say the least, but we’re excited to see what the next chapter brings!”
Uptown: Adored chicken wing destinationBadaBing Wings is permanently closed following the death of owner Jose Lopez, 42, a hospitality veteran who died on Friday, June 14, according to Block Club Chicago. Remembered by friends and family as a committed business owner and “loving presence” in his community, Lopez opened Badabing Wings (named after Tony Soprano’s nightclub in hit HBO series The Sopranos) in 2022 at 4754 N. Clark Street. He rapidly made a name for himself with wet and dry-rubbed halal chicken wings in a variety of flavors. Before his death, Lopez was working to open a second location in south suburban Blue Island.
South Loop; 3 Little Pigs, the Chinese American restaurant that’s emerged from a pandemic-era virtual restaurant, has closed its South Loop location inside Molly’s Cupcakes. That location, 3LP’s first brick-and-mortar, debuted in October 2023 at 1150 S. Wabash Avenue. Owner Henry Cai tells Eater the fact they couldn’t have outdoor signage hurt the business, and they’re focusing on their new Bridgeport location, next to Kimksi and Maria’s Community Bar. They’re hopeful to open a new ghost kitchen for delivery later this year in River North.
Evanston: Mexican bar and restaurant Fonda Cantina is closed after nearly a year and a half in business at 1735 Benson Avenue in suburban Evanston, owner Michael Lachowicz tells Eater. Lachowicz, chef and owner of lauded French restaurant Aboyer in suburban Winnetka opened Fonda in February 2023 with his longtime business partners chef Miguel Escobar, sous chef Carlos Cahue, and wine director Sergio Angel. It featured a menu of dishes inspired by Escobar and Cahue’s respective grandmothers’ cooking throughout their childhoods in Huandacareo in Michoacan and Huitzuco in Guerrero. Stay tuned for more news from Lachowicz and the team.
Fonda debuted in February 2023.Chris Peters/Eater Chicago
Evanston: Chinese restaurant Lao Sze Chuan is closed after a decade in business at 1633 Orrington Avenue in suburban Evanston, according to Evanston Now. Originally launched in 2014 as part of restaurateur Tony Hu’s Chicago-area culinary empire, the location was purchased by new owners in 2016.
Oak Park: Suburban breakfast staple Cozy Corner Restaurant will permanently close on Sunday, July 28 at 138 N. Marion Street after 65 years in business, according to the Sun-Times. Owners Peter Gerousis and Georgia Dravilas tell reporters that between the financial hit of the pandemic, an increase in rent, and $500,000 in unpaid taxes from a previous owner, the restaurant faced an untenable situation. Though they have no plans to reopen in the immediate future, Gerousis and Dravilas say they are open to the possibility of an eventual return.
June 27
Bucktown: YolkTest Kitchen, a six-year-old outpost of brunch restaurant chain Yolk, permanently closed on Sunday, June 23 at 1767 N. Milwaukee Avenue, according to Block Club Chicago. A roomy, industrial-style space favored by fans for plentiful plates of eggs Benedict and red velvet French toast, the test kitchen also provided the company a place to try out new recipes and get feedback from patrons. Yolk, originally founded in 2006 in Chicago’s South Loop, has grown significantly over subsequent decades. It now operates nearly a dozen locations in the Chicago area and spots in Indiana, Florida, and Texas.
Lakeview: Aquarium-laden cocktail spot Lost Reef will permanently close on Saturday, June 19 after a year and a half, owners announced in early June on social media. Founded by the team behind Cheesie’s Pub and Grub, Lost Reef brought fancy cocktails — not to mention 2,500 gallons of fish and coral inside eight saltwater fish tanks — to the former home of Slice of Cheesies at 964 W. Belmont Avenue. On Instagram, reps encourage fans to “drink the bar dry” ahead of the closure with deals on reserve wines and premium liquor.
Lincoln Park:Argot, an intimate French bistro inside the Chicago outpost of retail mini-chain Verve Wine, is permanently closed after less than a year in business at 2349 N. Lincoln Avenue, reps announced Wednesday, June 19 via Instagram. The wine shop remains open and the team plans to use the former Argot space for public and private events. “We have the utmost gratitude for all of the love and support of our amazing guests over these last nine months,” they write in part. “Unfortunately, the level of business that we have been experiencing simply cannot support continued operations.”
Humboldt Park: Booze-free drink retailer Bendición Bottle Shop closed its permanent location on Saturday, June 15 after two years inside the Succulent City plant shop at 2540 W. Division Street, according to Block Club. Owner Cristina Torres tells reporters that she’s moving the business online with local delivery and pickup after struggling through low sales and foot traffic over recent months.
Evanston: 527 Cafe, a suburban restaurant specializing in bubble tea, Taiwanese food, and Chinese dishes, permanently closed in early June at 527 Davis Street after 15 years in business so its owners can retire, they announce on Facebook.
Evanston: Suburban Thai stalwart Cozy Noodles & Rice will permanently close at the end of June after over two decades at 1018 Davis Street, according to Evanston Round Table. Owners Bee Nanakorn and Yee Muenprasittivej founded the restaurant in 2001 and filled it with an extensive collection of eclectic memorabilia, including vintage lunchboxes, Pez dispensers, and a life-size statue of Elvis. Nanakorn tells reporters that rising rent costs forced the closure, though she and Muenprasittivej are interested in reopening in a new location.
Two key North Side Foxtrot locations will not be part of the comeback plan led by the chain’s founder. CoStar reports that Hotel Chocolat, a company founded in the U.K. — and recently purchased by Mars — has leased the spaces at 900 W. Armitage Avenue in Lincoln Park and 3334 N. Southport Avenue in Lakeview.
Mars, which manufactures Twix and M&Ms from its Goose Island campus, paid about $662 million for the premium chocolate maker with 126 locations in the U.K., Japan, Ireland, St. Lucia, and Gibraltar. According to its website, the company began in 1994 and opened its first shop in 2004. They sell drinking chocolates, gift boxes, and more while “challenging the status quo for cacao farming.” A New York location opened in 2018 but has since closed.
The Lincoln Park Foxtrot shared space with Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams. Coincidentally, a Jeni’s remains open a few doors from the Southport location in Lakeview. Foxtrot was an upscale corner store that sold trendy snacks and stocked some items made by those within Chicago’s restaurant community. That includes Pretty Cool Ice Cream, the brand created by Dana Salls Cree, the former pastry chef at the Publican.
Foxtrot founder Mike LaVitola has been busy reestablishing vendor relationships since the chain suddenly closed in April. LaVitola was not in charge of Outfox Hospitality when it ceased operations, and the newly formed venture is separate from Foxtrot’s former parent which also included the two Dom’s Kitchen & Market stores in Old Town and Lincoln Park. LaVitola has attempted to distance himself from Outfox’s failures in convincing former vendors to work with his new company.
The sudden closure extinguished goodwill with vendors who haven’t been paid for their orders. Workers have filed lawsuits alleging the company didn’t properly inform them of the closures while demanding backpay.
Last week, liquor applications began to pop up in city records showing plans to reopen stores in Old Town, Fulton Market, Wicker Park, and Gold Coast. Earlier this summer, LaVitola said he planned on reopening 15 stores in Chicago and Austin, Texas. The majority would be in Chicago. LaVitola founded Foxtrot in 2015 and is chairman of the new entity set to revive the chain. It’s backed by Further Point Enterprises, an investment fund. At a May auction, it paid $2.2 million for Foxtrot’s assets.
Perilla Steakhouse is a gorgeous downtown Chicago restaurant. | Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago
Soups, grilled meats, and plenty of banchan are to be enjoyed
One of life’s most satisfying pleasures is watching plate after plate of banchan fill up the table. However, Chicago’s Korean lineup offers much more than just barbecue, as fusion spots and fancy restaurants add some extra flair to traditional dishes. From bibimbap and kimchi pancakes to hearty bowls of stew, there’s much to explore on the following menus.
Earlier in July, a vague Instagram post from Fares “Freddy” Zeideia brought joy to Chicagoans familiar with Zeideia’s famous New York restaurant, King of Falafel & Shawarma. Zeideia announced he was opening his first restaurant outside of the Empire State. He’s picked the suburban locale of Chicago Ridge and hopes to open in mid-September.
Zeideia’s legend has grown since he opened his first food cart in 2002 in Astoria, New York. While Chicagoans may be familiar with halal street food carts — Halal Guys arrived in Chicago in 2018) — Zeideia says he declined expansion overtures. He objected to greedy investors taking control of what he built. “The Falafel King of Astoria,” as the New York Times called him in 2016, has built a kingdom of two food trucks and one restaurant.
The Palestinian immigrant has family in the Chicago area, and Zeideia’s business partner lives there, too. Zeideia spoke about how Chicago is the Palestinian capital of America with the largest community in the country — it’s mostly focused in the Southwest Suburbs along Harlem Avenue through Bridgeview. That’s why he’s opening the first King of Falafel outside of New York in the suburbs, about 35 minutes from Downtown Chicago near that Palestinian enclave. The location will be for takeout and drive-thru only. Any upcoming locations would have dining rooms. Zeideia says he wants to open three or four in the Chicago area, including in the city proper.
“Everyone over the years has been telling me to come to Chicago, come to Chicago,” Zeideia says during a mid-July interview. He apologizes for not immediately returning a message. He underwent open-heart surgery the week before.
Blissfully unaware of Chicago’s restrictive food truck and mobile food cart laws, Zeideia says he also wants to open a food truck in town. After that, he’ll turn his attention to opening restaurants in Dallas. The New York operation has nothing to do with a similarly named San Francisco restaurant that closed in 2015. Zeideia also wants folks who have visited the New York restaurant to experience the same feel.
“I’m not going to change anything,” he says. “It’s going to be the same, old Freddy; the same attitude, same personality.”
That includes the restaurant’s branding, which now includes the phrase “Free Palestine.” Zeideia has celebrated his Palestinian pride more overtly in recent months as the war in Gaza continues. He’s plastered a cast of politicians — from President Joe Biden to Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu — on the floor for customers to step on; Zeideia calls them war criminals and blames them for the death toll overseas. He’s encountered backlash. Those disagreeing with his views have led a campaign to have Google erroneously list his restaurants as closed.
However, Zeideia has found more supporters thanks to how social media spreads his exploits. He says random folks will approach him and ask, “Aren’t you the guy with the things on the floor?”
Chicagoans know the type of restaurant owner Zeideia represents. He’s someone who connects with customers and shows up daily to build strong rapport with his customers. He was back at the restaurant a day after heart surgery. Zeideia says he didn’t want to be bored away from the restaurant. While he is excited to be in Chicago to see his six grandchildren more, he’s still a New Yorker to the core. Zeideia says he craves the city’s manic pace which other cities can’t match: “In Chicago, you can sit on a light and nobody honks their horn,” he says.
King of Falafel and Shawarma, 6085 W. 111th Street in suburban Chicago Ridge, planned for a mid-September opening.
The summer season kicked off with a bang for chef Jason Hammel, who in June took home a James Beard Award for Outstanding Hospitality at his iconic 25-year-old farm-to-table restaurant Lula Cafe in Logan Square. It was the sole medal awarded to a Chicago restaurant this year, but Chicagoans’ outpouring of joy over the win has taken Lula Cafe to new heights of popularity.
Rather than resting on his laurels, Hammel and his wife, singer and songwriter Amalea Tshilds, are preparing to unveil their hotly anticipated new project, Loulou. Located a short walk from Lula in the long and narrow former home of Mini Mott and Second Generation at 3057 W. Logan Boulevard, Loulou won’t be a traditional restaurant, Hammel says. The couple have long dreamed of a space that blends food with other art forms like literature and music, where they can host pop-ups, special meals, chef and vendor panels, and other gatherings.
Lula has been a linchpin in the community since ’90s and used to host similar events several nights a week. Hammel admits there was some fear when retail chains and others began arriving along Logan Boulevard, but the neighborhood has kept its spirit. “Logan Square remains fiercely independent. owner-operated, and new things are opening all the time,” Hammel said during a June interview with Eater.
Loulou marks a bit of a return to those roots with performers and visiting chefs holding court while the kitchen prepares food based on the event. “That’s why we’ve been thriving for 25 years, because we really care about the stories and the depth of experience,” he added. “We want to do that for the public [at Loulou].”
Now, as the opening approaches, Hammel and Tshilds are setting the stage for future collaborations with 25 for 25, a series of five pop-up dinners featuring some of the city’s most celebrated chefs to raise funds for local nonprofits. Slated to run over the five days leading up to Lula Cafe’s 25th anniversary – Monday, August 26, through Saturday, August 31 – the Resy-sponsored events will feature a distinct menu with a portion of proceeds from the $250 per person tickets going to a different charitable organization.
Check out the lineup below.
Monday, August 26
Chefs: Erick Williams (Virtue), Lee Wolen (Boka), Jonathan Zaragoza (Birrieria Zaragoza), Paul Virant (Gaijin), and Stephanie Izard (Girl & the Goat).
Menu items: Wolen’s bluefin tuna marinated in strawberry, black garlic, and tomato; and Zaragoza’s smoked potato taco with ceviche a la Mexicana, jocque, salsa roja, and peanut salsa matcha.
Menu items: Vincent’s eggplant lahmacun with phyllo, tomato, onion, parsley, and grated bresaola; David and Anna Posey’s cured tuna with smoked tomato, sunflower, and marigold.
Menu items: Bayless’ camote blanco tamal with Oaxacan green mole, confit fennel, and grilled chayote; Engel’s cucumber salad with melon, ramps, shmaltz, gribenes, and kaluga caviar.
Get plenty of variety with a $60 two-hour brunch that includes Modelo, punch, house margaritas, mimosas, micheladas, a breakfast buffet, chips & salsa, and a choice of tacos or a brunch dish like chilaquiles or s’mores french toast. The same package is also available at the restaurant’s Lakeview location. Make a reservation on OpenTable.
Buckle up, Chicago: Massively popular TikTok restaurant influencer Keith Lee, a former MMA fighter who has rocketed to social media stardom, is back in the Windy City.
On Monday, July 22, the former MMA fighter and Detroit native announced his return to Chicago for a more robust visit than his brief stint in fall 2023 when locals first saw the “Keith Lee effect” play out in real-time at spots like Soul Prime in Lincoln Park. “This time, we’re doing the whole thing,” says Lee.
Lee’s straightforward approach, arguably a key facet of his popularity, relies largely on suggestions from his millions of followers, who direct him toward mom-and-pop restaurants that often don’t have the deep pockets required to hire a PR team. His video reviews generally follow the same structure. First, Lee’s family enters the chosen restaurant, assesses the service, and orders take-out. Lee remains incognito, devouring the food from the comfort of his car, and rating the items on a one to 10 scale.
As Lee chomps his way around town, Eater Chicago will update this running list.
Tacotlán
4312 W. Fullerton Avenue, Hermosa
For his second Chicago stop, Lee and his family headed to Tacotlán, a well-known haven for birria lovers in the Hermosa neighborhood. In a review posted Wednesday, July 24, Lee acknowledges that the restaurant isn’t exactly a hidden gem, but says he was drawn by claims that it serves the best quesabirria in town. He spent $22.25 on three quesabirria tacos with extra rice, no beans, and a styrofoam coffee cup of consomme. As Lee chows down, a booming sound effect rapidly clues viewers in on his reaction: “Good night,” he deadpans. Both Lee and wife Ronni bestow the juicy tacos with a 9 out of 10 rating.
Amici Chicago
3933 N. Broadway, Lakeview
For his first stop in Chicago, Lee visited a tiny spot that specializes in arancini (fried Italian rice balls) stuffed with savory ingredients from various countries. It’s become a favorite of neighborhood Facebook groups. Lee, who posted his review on Wednesday, July 24, and his family spent $54 on six arancini, each with its own dipping sauce: Ethiopian doro wat, Mexican birria, Indian butter chicken, Indian tikka masala, Caribbean jerk chicken, and Italian meat sauce with cheese and peas. The birria arancini was an immediate hit for Lee, who praised the spices and “high-quality” meat and rated it 8.7 out of 10.
A classic Italian submission, which Lee describes as a “hand-held meat pie homemade lasagna,” rated even higher (9 out of 10). Things get a little confusing when Lee proceeds to a “curry chicken” arancino, which appears to contain butter chicken, which was (unsurprisingly) low in spice but high in flavor, earning it a rating of 7.9 out of 10. The doro wat arancino, stuffed with berbere-spiced chicken, caught Lee slightly off-guard as he’d never tried it before, and he found it a little too salty, resulting in a 4 out of 10 rating. Finally, Lee circles back to the Indian tikka masala, which — like the other “subcontinent” option — also lacked flavor, though Lee ultimately assigned it 6.5 out of 10.
It’s been a year since scintillating South Asian restaurant Vajra moved from West Town into the Wicker Park space where to Spring and Trencherman called home. But until last week, the restaurant was take-out only as ownership worked out what it wanted to do inside their new home near Wicker Park’s six corners.
Last weekend Vajra began bar service. They’ll serve cocktails and bar bites like momos and a goat burger. But the big news for fans of Vajra’s delectable dishes like Sichuan Chicken Chili, Goan Shrimp Curry, and malai kofta is that the dining room will finally debut to the public on Thursday, August 1. Reservations are live via Tock.
Restablishing the bar means a reunion with star bartender Juanjo Pulgarin. Vajra specializes in Nepali and Indian cuisine, with the two countries diverging but coming from the same culinary traditions. But until recently, South Asian restaurants in America didn’t focus too much on cocktails. Liquor licenses are expensive, especially for the first wave of immigrant restaurant owners. There are also cultural taboos surrounding alcohol in some South Asian communities.
Juanjo PulgarinAshok Selvam/Eater Chicago
But not everyone carries those old-school traditions, and often time dissolves those binds. Pulgarin, who is Colombian and grew up in Spain, thrilled customers with a high-end program utilizing mixology tricks and ingredients seen at fancy cocktail bars. That earned Pulgarin a 2020 Jean Banchet Award nomination for best bartender. But as management closed Vajra’s dining room and bar during the pandemic, Pulgarin left Vajra and is now the lead bartender at Gold Coast steakhouse Maple & Ash where he’s helping the company relaunch its 8 Bar to open more locations across the country.
Pulgarin’s drinks include a riff on mango lassi, called Xanadu y El Cielo. Lassi, a non-alcoholic drink famous in northern India, is known for its viscous texture. When served traditionally it’s akin to a cheesecake milkshake and it comes in sweet or savory versions. Vajra’s version captures the flavor without the thickness, creating a light drink made with whisky, amaro, nixta, yogurt, coconut milk, mango, and citrus. Pulgarin loves the looks of drinkers expecting the traditional take and seeing their surprise when they see and taste his version. Another drink, Sakura Garden, is made with gin, sake, watermelon, saffron, lychee, and lime. Pulgarin helped create the menu and he’s close with management so he can pursue other projects, like Maple & Ash, while contributing to Vajra.
When Vajra opened in 2019, they were ahead of the South Asian cocktail revolution. This was before Lilac Tiger and Kama opened.
Co-owner Dipesh Kakshapaty says his team was worried that folks would want a full at the bar and that’s why they scaled back. They served a version of the goat burger in the past, as many restaurants pivoted to simpler food during the pandemic because of to-go operations — It’s also cheaper from a labor standpoint. The burger’s return made sense as Vajra builds out its bar menu.
It’s been a journey since 2020 when the restaurant shifted to takeout and delivery-only, pushed by the pandemic, and then challenges at their original location, 1329 W. Chicago Avenue — now home to Jook Sing — prevent them from reopening. Vajra closed in January 2022 but some members of ownership pursued a new restaurant venture but that never gained much traction. It would reopen for takeout and delivery in September 2022 inside the same West Town location. They moved to Wicker Park nine months later.
The previous tenant, Ooh Wee It Is, never opened — despite putting up signs. That stretch of Wicker Park has been tough to crack, but Vajra hopes a hearty cocktail program, an established takeout and delivery business, and some of the best Indian and Nepali food in town can create a sustainable operation.
Vajra, 2039 W. North Avenue, bar open now, dining room opening Thursday, August 1, reservations via Tock.
While not abundant, Mexican food does exist in Finland. Carlos López Muñoz found out firsthand after spending a year in the country, encouraged to make the journey from a high school exchange student. He attended school and played semiprofessional soccer for VG-62 Naantali in the southwestern part of Finland. He played as an attacking forward.
Muñoz found one “legit” restaurant while in Finland, in Turko: “Everything else I had was tacos, burritos, hard shells,” he says, recalling when he was 17. His time abroad sparked questions about his Oaxacan heritage and he began wondering more about gastronomy.
Last week, he launched his restaurant, Istmo, in Lakeview on Clark, just north of Belmont. Istmo will eventually introduce dinner — including a prix fixe option. But for now, they’ll focus on breakfast and lunch,
The chef’s resume also includes more traditional culinary experience. He returned home to Mexico, finished culinary school, and eventually moved to Chicago where he staged with Carlos Gaytán at Michelin-starred Mexique (Muñoz was originally enrolled in a program through Disney which would have stationed him at Disney World in Orlando. The partnership with the Mouse didn’t work out as Muñoz fell in love with cooking).
Muñoz also worked with Rick Bayless, joining a list of Mexican-born chefs who honed their skills in Chicago. Muñoz also befriended Diego chef Stephen Sandoval and oversaw the kitchen at Leña Brava, working there before and after Bayless exited the West Loop restaurant. Muñoz’s black mole, which unites the culinary traditions of both his grandmothers — sweet and rich, with tart from pineapple — remains at the restaurant. Muñoz says he worked four to five years perfecting the recipe, but he’s not possessive. He’s happy when others enjoy his family’s culinary traditions.
After spending seven months in D.C., he returned home to Chicago. This brings us back to the present, as Istmo provides an enticing option for Cubs fans who want an alternative to the Ricketts family’s Hotel Zachary complex.
Istmo is backed by Juan Carlos, the owner of Xurro Churro Factory, a popular dessert chain with locations all over the city. Istmo’s beverage program is also top-notch. Carlos owns North Center cocktail bar Raizes, so expect serious drinks. There’s also a full espresso bar with coffee imported from Nicaragua and Mexico.
Istmo is named Istmo de Tehuantepec, the largest region in the state of Oaxacan — where Muñoz hails. While Oaxacan food isn’t new to Chicago, Muñoz says Istmo’s menu is distinctive and underrepresented. He’d joke that during preshift Bayless would needle him and observe that all his menu ideas stemmed from family dishes. Istmo food is heavy on seafood and pickled and cured ingredients. There are also Lebanese influences.
“These are flavors that I honestly haven’t seen in Chicago,” Muñoz says.
Muñoz hopes his restaurant can cater to a variety of tastes, even vegans. It’s easy when you have a cheat code: “If you have a good mole, it’s going to be a great dish,” Muñoz says, knowing mole is naturally vegan.
Lakeview and Wrigleyville can be a challenging space for a restaurant that wants to challenge the status quo. That’s why Muñoz is starting with breakfast and lunch while easing into dinner. But he’s confident that “everyone surrenders to Mexican cuisine at some point.”
Walk around the space and check out more food photos below.
Istmo, 3231 N. Clark Street, open 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Wednesday through Sunday
Fancy downtown food fest Chicago Gourmet, the annual fete that gathers together some of the city’s best-known chefs and restaurants, has launched ticket sales for the 2024 event that will run from Saturday, September 21 to Sunday, September 29 at the Harris Theater rooftop in Millennium Park.
The Grand Cru, arguably the main attraction, will return with two sessions on September 28 to the Harris Rooftop with wine and bites from Chicago chefs. But 2024 won’t be the year for those hoping for a pre-pandemic return when the festival occupied most of Millennium Park. This year, organizers at the Illinois Restaurant Association are weaving together sartorial and culinary art forms with the theme “Fashion, Plated,” and encouraging attendees to come dressed to impress in specific colors and styles for each event. “Fashion and food both tell stories, sharing history, traditions, and cultures of people,” association President Sam Toia writes in a press release.
Chicago native and Food Network personality chef Jeff Mauro is set to host Chefs Get Pickled, a new kickoff event set for Saturday, September 21, that will include an inaugural Chicago Gourmet Chef Pickleball Tournament featuring bites, drinks, and the chance to watch chef competitors such as Tigist Reda (Demera), Art Smith (Reunion), Sarah Mispagel-Lustbader (Loaf Lounge), and Kevin Hickey (The Duck Inn). On Wednesday, September 25, fellow food media star Mario Rizzotti will host a House of Gourmet Italian Dinner, another first-time event, inside the Chicago History Museum. Organizers promise an “extravagant” multi-course meal from chefs Tony Priolo (Piccolo Sogno), Fabio Viviani (Siena Tavern, Bar Siena), Diego Puddu (Eataly), José Sosa (who recently departed Ummo in River North for Greggory Hearth & Tavern in suburban South Barrington), and Casey Doody (Boka Restaurant Group).
Despite being bumped from its usual slot at the onset of Chicago Gourmet, Tacos & Tequila will return on Thursday, September 26 on the Harris Theater Rooftop. Attendees are encouraged to don bright colors for the event, hosted by celebrity chef Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill, Topolobampo) and Marcos Carbajal (Carnitas Uruapan), where they’ll find tacos, agave spirits, cocktails, and more from chefs including Diana Dávila (Mi Tocaya Antojería), Carlos Gaytan (Tzuco), and Danny and Jhoana Espinoza (Santa Masa Tamaleria).
On Friday, Top Chef alums Joe Flamm (Rose Mary) and Adrienne Cheatham will host the popular Hamburger Hop competition on the Harris Theater Rooftop with a “streetwear” dress code, which leaves plenty of room for stylistic interpretation. The Grand Cru, the fest’s luxurious and pricey ($255 per person) VIP-style party featuring exclusive winemakers and prominent chefs, will return with two sessions on Saturday, September 28. Hosted by chef Paul Kahan (The Publican, Avec), the sessions are inspired by the “elegant simplicity of a fashion sketchbook,” thus afternoon attendees are urged to dress for a “blackout party,” and evening visitors can expect a “white party” theme.
Smaller events will also dot the festival, including a Somm Session on Friday, September 27 at splashy Italian restaurant Adalina. Organizers expect to see crowds at a Rise & Shine Gourmet Brunch on Sunday with friends Art Smith, Lorena Garcia, and Jernard Wells, and a Late Night Gourmet after-party on Saturday, with small bites and cocktails at Tao Chicago.
Chicago is home to a robust and diverse wine scene, yet the city is somehow behind the curve when it comes to glasses and bottles from Georgia, a nation at the crossroads of Asia and Europe that’s home to an 8,000-year-old winemaking tradition. If Tamta Sanodze, founder of Georgian restaurant Stumara in suburban Wheeling gets her way, that’s all about to change.
“[Georgia] is the birthplace of winemaking,” says Sanodze, a native Georgian who immigrated with her husband three years ago to the U.S. from the country’s capital city, Tbilisi. Georgian wines are fermented for months in a qvevri, a huge earthenware vessel buried deep underground. “We have a rare and special technology to make these wines, [so] the tannins and flavors are very special.”
Georgian wines aren’t novel anymore in places like Washington D.C.and New York, but have only recently begun to grab a foothold in a smattering of Chicago restaurants including Lakeview’s Chicago Diplomat Cafe and Mediterranean spot Oda in Andersonville.
Sanodze, who opened Stumara in April at 847 W. Dundee Road next door to her Georgian deli bakery Pirosmani, aims to bring an even higher local profile to Georgian viticulture with educational wine dinners, a menu of traditional dishes that pair well with the wines, and with an eventual second location in Downtown Chicago. “At Stumara, our guests are already asking for a location downtown where we can [share] a little bit more about our country, our history, our dishes, and wines.”
Stumara may also introduce Chicagoans to traditional staples like khinkali (massive, meaty Georgian soup dumplings), adjaruli khachapuri (bread boats stuffed with cheese and egg), and megruli kharcho — a savory beef cheek stew with rich spiced walnut sauce. Georgian cuisine has a well-earned reputation for meat-heavy dishes, but Sanodze also attends to vegetarians and vegans with options like nigvziani badrijani — fried eggplant stuffed with spicy garlic and walnut paste.
Tucked inside a suburban strip mall, Stumara seats around 50 in a space carefully designed to aid in Sanodze’s larger project — spreading the good word about Georgian history and culture. Its revered textile industry, for example, is represented in eye-catching pillows and upholstered furniture, and text from The Knight in the Panther’s Skin, the national epic poem of Georgia by medieval luminary Shota Rustaveli, decorates the walls in both Georgian and English.
“It’s a story about love and friendship,” Sanodze says of the poem, which scholars describe as a call to live each day with joy, courage, and perseverance. “It’s about the special moments and what’s important in life.”
Last year, Beaumont Bar & Grill ended a 44-year run in Lincoln Park perhaps fortifying that changes have arrived in the area surrounding Halsted and Armitage. Beaumont held a 4 a.m. liquor license, and though that space looked innocent enough when the sun was out with sports on screens and passable bar food, the moon produced a rowdier crowd with bouncers charging covers and the kind of dance floor, full of recent college grads. With patrons waiting in line along Halsted, this scene was one Chicagoans could expect near Rush and Division.
As Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises opened two more restaurants in recent months, now there are whispers that a Small Cheval will soon find a new home near the intersection. Bar owners already faced a boom in families in the neighborhood in the early ‘00s with new community members pushing for earlier last calls and more of a suburban vibe. The neighborhood survived those overtures and evolved, and it’s happening again with new restaurants like John’s Food & Wine opening down the street.
Which brings Lincoln Park to the presence and the demise of Beaumont. It’s been purchased by a familiar name and they hope to unveil a new restaurant early next year at 2020 N. Halsted Street. Paul Abu-Taleb’s team is behind Pilsen Yards, a low-key bar that serves food along 18th Street in Pilsen. They also operate a bar inside the bar — a fancy cocktails lounge called the Alderman.
Abu-Taleb spoke about the cavernous space’s history in Lincoln Park: “The last time this building changed hands was 60 years ago,” he says.
The two-story structure was built in 1890. Structurally, it’s in fine shape, he says, but to revamp and gut the interiors. The team doesn’t have many details to share. They’re not even sure of the name — Abu-Taleb says they’re leaning toward keeping Beaumont. But other than the name, the new project will be different. There will also be private event space and no late-night liquor license.
“This is a casual, full-restaurant concept,” Abu-Taleb says. “For us, it’s a very long-term investment; we’ve always looked for neighborhood locations to do neighborhood concepts in.”
An outdoor patio in the back is also being planned, perhaps with some of the elements, like heated floors, seen at Pilsen Yards. Maybe it’s more of a beer garden. Abu-Taleb wants to inject some fun into his venues and bring a different spirit compared to his family’s pizzerias. Yes, Pizza Capri at Halsted and Willow — next to Boka and Alinea — is from the Abu-Talebs. They also have a Hyde Park location (Paul’s father, Anan Abu-Taleb, was the mayor of suburban Oak Park from 2013 to 2021).
Plenty of details are still being worked out in the coming months, so stay tuned for details.
Beaumont project, 2020 N Halsted Street, scheduled to open in the second quarter of 2025.
The owners of Replay Lincoln Park are continuing to serve up ‘90s pop-culture nostalgia with the arrival of a New York-style pizza shop inside the former Broken English Taco Pub in Lincoln Park.
Seemingly a call out to the space’s former life 14 years ago as Hoagie Hut, hospitality veteran Mark Kwiatkowski has opened the Slice Hut at Neon Gardens inside the sprawling unique corner space at Lincoln and Sheffield. The Hut, which opened in early June at 2580 N. Lincoln Avenue, represents the first phase of a two-part opening featuring gelato, Sicilian slices, and whole pies.
The Slice Hut is open in Lincoln Park.
The space went through extensive remodeling in 2015 — melding a few neighboring buildings into a single complex. Kwiatkowski says he’s long wished for a New York-style specialist in the neighborhood. He also understands the power of a nostalgic reference — he’s deployed a team of artists while producing a lengthy list of unofficial pop-up events, tapping into a potent cast of characters synonymous with pizza parties. “We started thinking about pizza — what’s the pop-culture reference?” he says. “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles partnered with Pizza Hut in the ‘90s for a promotional deal, and the Slice Hut lends itself perfectly to a retro Pizza Hut-inspired design.”
The 16-seat space evokes a time capsule of the chain in its heyday, from its exposed brick walls and Coca-Cola clock to Pizza Hut’s signature red-and-white checkerboard tablecloths. Pizza options include chicken bacon ranch (Italian pico), Buffalo chicken with blue cheese sauce, and macaroni and cheese, alongside pizza pinwheels that resemble cinnamon buns, salads, sandwiches, and gelato from Vero Coffee & Gelato in suburban Elmwood Park. There’s a loading zone outside for takeout customers and a walk-up window for those who want to grab a quick slice from the sidewalk.
Pies are available whole or by-the-slice.
The Slice Hut’s design pays tribute to a certain infamous pizza chain.
Not content to open just one new business, the team is preparing to launch adjoining spot Neon Gardens, a full-service restaurant and bar that takes the chaotic aesthetic of four famous, ninjutsu-trained reptiles to new heights. It will open Friday, July 19 with a 50-seat bar area bears a gallery wall of works from Renaissance painters (say, Michelangelo) that the squad altered with spray paint and illustrations, and a sunny atrium (which also seats 50) designed to resemble an overgrown Roman statuary garden laden with graffiti, as if “some street artist came in and had all this great canvas to play with,” Kwiatkowski says.
It also houses a game room, which embraces the neon-lit, underground energy of the Turtles’ sewer lair complete with slimy green substances oozing down the walls and more than a dozen games including darts, shuffleboard, and arcade games. Patrons can also expect an array of TVs hooked up to multi-game consoles with hits like Super Smash Bros. that will rotate based on popularity. The venue is topped off with a patio where the team can host pop-ups, kicking off later this summer with a Portofino-themed event with Aperol spritzes, salumi, and TikTok-friendly visuals like a Vespa and classic Italian films on a projection screen.
The atrium’s design bears a whiff of late-stage capitalism.
During the day, Neon Gardens is a family-friendly affair, but after 9 p.m., staff will dim the lights, turn up the music, and transform the space into a 21-and-up venue. Kwiatkowski hopes it will attract a lively crowd and help boost the neighborhood’s energy overall. “Lincoln Park is coming back — it sleepy for so many years,” he says. “but now, with some of the young people who are maybe a little tired of River North or West Loop, it’s got some energy and excitement again.”
Behold the Slice Hut and Neon Gardens in the photographs below.
At long last, summer temperatures have arrived in Chicago, which means locals are eager to hit the pavement and savor every moment of the all-too-brief season. That means it’s a great time to explore the city’s many bar and restaurant pop-ups to keep things interesting and preview up-and-coming hospitality talent. Follow along for a sampling of the best the city has to offer in Eater Chicago’s pop-up round-up.
Have a pop-up that should be listed? Email information to chicago@eater.com.
July
Lombard: Annual touring event Halal Ribfest is back in town for a meaty, family-friendly celebration of halal-certified barbecue and street food from Friday, July 12 through Sunday, July 14 in suburban Lombard, according to a rep. Attendees can snag samples from competitors in a BBQ Showdown and vote for the top contenders in categories like “best ribs,” “best sauce,” and “people’s champion.” There’s also a special zone for kids with free activities like magic shows and inflatables. Tickets (prices vary) and more details are available online. Halal Ribfest Illinois 2024, Friday, July 12 through Sunday, July 14, 203 Yorktown Shopping Center in Lombard.
Fulton Market: Celebrity chef Stephanie Izard (Girl & the Goat) will team up with James Beard Award-winning chef Jonathon Sawyer (Kindling) and fellow Top Chef alum Joe Sasto on Thursday, July 18 for a rooftop party at Cabra, her Peruvian-style spot atop the Hoxton hotel, according to a rep. Party people can expect “seasonal eats,” tequila-based cocktails, frozen drinks, and sweeping city views. Tickets ($125) are available via OpenTable. A portion of each ticket sale will be donated to the Greater Chicago Food Depository. Hot to Goat! at Cabra, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday, July 18, 200 N. Green Street.
Fulton Market: Izard will keep the party going on Friday, July 19 with a 14th birthday celebration of Girl & the Goat, her famed restaurant with James Beard Award-winning Boka Restaurant Group. Tickets ($85) include passed appetizers and two drink tickets, and are available via OpenTable. Birthday Bubbles & Bites Happy Hour at Girl & the Goat, 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. Friday, July 19, 809 W. Randolph Street.
Avondale: Heavy metal-themed burger mini-chain Kuma’s Corner will hold a launch party on Saturday, July 20 for the Stella’s Burger, a new burger creation designed to raise funds for a 13-year-old Chicagoan who is recovering from a physical assault in 2023 at her middle school, according to a rep. The Angus beef burger features its namesake’s favorite toppings: spicy dijonnaise, mushrooms, fried pickles, Muenster, and avocado, and $2 from each burger sold will go to a GoFundMe campaign to help cover Stella’s medical expenses and assist in a search for a more accessible home. It will remain on the menu until the teen’s GoFundMe campaign reaches its $25,000 goal. Release party festivities will include a raffle, a silent auction, and limited edition t-shirts available for purchase. Stella’s Burger Release Party at Kuma’s Corner, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Saturday, July 20, 2900 W. Belmont Avenue.
River North: Chef Brian Baxter of lauded fine dining spot The Catbird Seat in Nashville will join Chicago chef Sujan Sarkar and his team at Michelin-starred Indienne for a collaborative one-night-only pop-up on Monday, July 22 in River North, according to a rep. Baxter and Sarkar promise an eight-course tasting menu ($190 per person) and optional wine pairings ($120 per person) from Indienne sommelier Tia Polite. Reservations are available via Tock. Indienne x The Catbird Seat, Monday, July 22, 217 W. Huron Street.
The Loop: Seoul nightlife-inspired cocktail bar Miki’s Park is bringing back its K-Pop fireworks boat party for the second year running on Wednesday, July 24 aboard the “Summer of George” boat. Attendees will have access to two cash bars throughout the three-hour ride on the Chicago River and Lake Michigan with tunes from Miki’s Park’s resident K-Pop DJ Dorian Westwood, a fireworks show from the boat’s top roof deck, and entry to the bar’s late-night afterparty. Tickets and more details are available online. Miki’s Park K-POP Fireworks Boat Party, 7 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Wednesday, July 24, Departs from River City Marina at 900 S. Wells Street.
The story begins, like so many today, with a social media post. Confusion, as is sometimes the case, soon followed. Still, this story may have a happy ending.
On Friday, July 5, Revival Food Hall announced on Instagram that it would be closing at the end of the month, citing an inability to reach “better business terms from our landlord [CBRE]” as the cause. At the time, it was assumed the food hall and its 14 vendors would be shutting down permanently. As it turns out, the venue will remain open but will be under new management, Atlanta-based STHRN Hospitality, with a new name to come.
When it opened in 2016, Revival was a first of its kind for the city and featured 15 local food vendors. Local also applied to much of the space’s fixtures, metalwork, and furniture, which was crafted by Dock 6 Collective, a group of independent Chicago artisans.
Located in the lobby of The National, a 1905 Daniel Burnham-designed building, Revival Hall was the brainchild of Bruce Finkelman and Craig Golden. The duo and their 16” on Center company are also responsible for Thalia Hall, Empty Bottle, Longman & Eagle, and The Promontory among others. Since then, they’ve grown their hospitality group to include Salt Shed, From Here On (another food hall inside the Old Post Office), and Manhattan’s Olly Olly, the last two are food halls as well.
“It was a labor of love and when we started eight years ago, we had no idea what we were doing,” says Finkelman of Revival Hall’s early days. “We had an understanding of our mission of treating the Loop like a neighborhood like nobody else had done, and also being able to showcase some of the great local culinary talent that we had in Chicago.”
With the changing economic environment, Revival had been in discussions with their landlord to figure out a way to continue and operate for the long term, says Finkelman. “It was communicated to us recently that that was not going to be a possibility and we didn’t have a choice but to move on.”
Enter STHRN, a consulting and management company that formed in 2020 — a partnership with George Banks of real estate consulting firm Revel, Elizabeth Feichter (Atlanta Food and Wine Festival), and Kelly Campbell of culinary consulting business Southern Culinary and Creative (Gather ‘round, Epicurean Atlanta hotel). They’ve been behind a few Atlanta restaurants, and food halls in Atlanta, Cincinnati, and LA.
For Ravi Nagubadi, owner and founder of Art of Dosa, getting a spot in Revival was a dream come true. “When I first came to Revival in 2016, and I was dreaming about setting up a business of my own, I said to myself, this is the place to be,” he says, citing the vibe, the food stalls curated, and the crowds.
Art of Dosa came on board the day after Christmas 2019. While it’s been “a struggle,” he says, the pandemic notwithstanding, in the last few months Nagubadi has seen an improvement in business. So he was surprised when he got a call from Tim Wickes, manager of Revival, giving him the heads up about the transition.
“I don’t even want to venture into the specifics of it,” says Nagubadi, adding that the words “court decision” were in the letter they were given. “It’s one of these things where you’re the kids and your parents made it seem like everything was okay, but all of a sudden they told you they’re getting divorced.”
While Nagubadi has nothing but praise for Revival Hall — “It was the model for all food halls in the country and was a revelation when it came out and still is, so kudos and credit to them,” he says — he’s hopeful for the future. “As a business owner, my number one thing has to be do whatever I have to do to continue the business,” he says. “I’m excited for what that new chapter’s going to bring.”
Matt Sussman of Danke, one of two of the original Revival vendors still there, has also seen an increase in business of late. “I don’t think it’s ever been busier than it is now,” he says, especially during peak times, Tuesday through Thursday during lunch.
Sussman (who also owns two Logan Square restaurants — Table, Donkey & Stick and the new Bar Parisette) also expressed confidence about the future of Revival after meeting in person with representatives from STHRN. “While no one was very forthcoming about what happened — and I don’t know if and when that information would be public — I expect things will continue in a way that is conducive to us operating there as we always have.”
STHRN is no stranger to running food halls. “Collectively, we saw an opportunity to create a business that didn’t exist, which is running bars, restaurants, and cafes in food halls on behalf of building owners,” says Banks, one of the company’s founders.
“We are excited to get involved with an iconic asset that’s been a real stalwart for the Loop community for years now,” says another founder, Campbell, adding that a different name should be the only difference post-July 31 when STHRN takes over. “To the patron who comes in one day, it will look the same the next.”
For their part, the Revival Hall folks have reached out to the building to offer their help in the transition.
“The most important thing is that whoever the new folks are in there, that they really take care of these great businesses and the people who want to stay,” says Finkelman. “While we’re sad to see it go, we hope that whatever happens that they honor what we’ve tried to bring there.”
And this may not be the end for Revival Hall. Says Finkelman, “We have so many projects on the docket right now that who’s to say that Revival can’t find its way to another building or another area.”
Meanwhile, vendors like Danke and Art of Dosa are trying to battle misconceptions. A group of vendors collaborated on a Thursday, July 11 Instagram post hoping to get the word out that their businesses aren’t disappearing. Despite 16” on Center’s announcement that they’re not closing their doors and that they’ll be around when the new operators take over: “Let’s clear this up…WE ARE NOT GOING ANYWHERE. Same Space. Same Restaurants. Same Hours. The Space is simply changing management groups.”
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