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  • This Modern Seafood Restaurant Hopes to Reignite Greektown

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    The contemporary Greek seafood restaurant is more than just another opening for founder and partner Kosti Demos. His family once operated Costa’s, a beloved Greektown mainstay that was destroyed by a fire in 2010. Watching the neighborhood’s businesses slowly disappear has been sad for Demos, but he’s thrilled for the opportunity to bring back some of the lost energy and honor his family’s legacy.

    To capture the spirit, the team has brought in executive chef Konstantinos Ntalianis, who has relocated from Greece to lead the kitchen alongside Forte Hospitality culinary director Saul Ramos. Ntalianis, a former MasterChef Greece contestant, blends traditional Greek flavors with Japanese influences. Whole fish will be flown in weekly from Greece and Spain, and diners have the chance to select their catch from a seafood display before it’s roasted over the kitchen’s wood-fired hearth and grill. The menu won’t be 10 pages long like other neighborhood spots, but expect familiar staples such as octopus, pork souvlaki, lamb chops, pasticcio, and lobster and branzino by the pound. Naturally, flaming saganaki will also be on the menu — a nod to Ithaki’s home in the old Parthenon space, where the iconic Chicago dish was first invented. And on Sundays, the kitchen will roast a whole lamb on a spit, evoking the communal feasts that define Greek celebrations.

    “I think what we’re trying to do here is revitalize Greektown a bit and modernize what it’s offering in terms of food. It’s been the same for 50 or 60 years, and we wanted to bring in some of the cool techniques and new styles they’re doing in Greece today,” Demos says.

    The bar program is promising the largest Greek wine collection in Chicago, presenting bottles from Santorini, Crete, Rapsani, and Nemea. About 85 percent of the list is Greek, while cocktails lean heavily on native spirits, like mastiha, ouzo, and tsipouro, which are incorporated into classic recipes. A speakeasy lounge is slated to open later this year in the restaurant’s lower level, with a separate entrance and focus on cocktails and small bites.

    The 5,500-square-foot interior channels the airy feel of Mykonos, with clear sight lines from front to back. The restaurant accommodates 180 guests, including 30 at the wraparound bar, with an open kitchen that gives diners a glimpse of the action. Instead of the stereotypical blue-and-white palette of old-school Greek restaurants, Forte opted for more earthy and beach-style tones. Although there’s no outdoor seating, two massive 20-foot windows open onto Halsted Street to bring in the breeze on warm nights. And in keeping with Greektown tradition, valet parking will be complimentary.

    For Demos and the team, Ithaki isn’t just about good food and drinks. It’s about sparking momentum for one of America’s last remaining Greektowns.

    “We’ve been working on this for almost four years, trying to find the right spot and the right concept and the timing,” Demos says. “We’re excited to revitalize and bring people back to this area.”

    Ithaki Estiatorio, 314 S. Halsted Street. Open 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.

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    Jeffy Mai

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  • Little Lark Brings Neo-Neapolitan Pizzas and Patio Life to Guild Row

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    After a year and a half in the making, Little Lark, the latest project from Meadowlark Hospitality, has opened its doors. The restaurant, which anchors Guild Row, the co-working space and social club in Avondale, serves pizzas, sandwiches, small plates, and easy-drinking cocktails in a casual setting with a spacious patio.

    The new spot grew out of a partnership between Meadowlark restaurateur Steve Lewis and Guild Row founders Jim Lasko and Elyse Agnello.

    “They have a big pop-up type kitchen, and a big courtyard that they always thought was underutilized,” Lewis says. “Really, they reached out to me, and we started talking. The synergies between how we both approach community and hospitality really aligned. And then we decided that we wanted to open another restaurant.”

    The Meadowlark team transformed what was formerly known as Guild Row’s Avondale Room for the restaurant’s dining space. At the heart of the kitchen is a Fiero pizza oven from Italy that churns out neo-Neapolitan pies. Chef Will Conner, who was most recently chef de cuisine at Elina’s, has created a lineup of artisan pizzas made with a sourdough starter. Guests can expect classic choices like margherita and pepperoni, plus pies topped with ‘nduja and salumi from Lardon, Meadowlark’s Logan Square restaurant and butcher shop.

    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    A zucchini pizza.

    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    Beyond that, the menu includes Roman-style sandwiches served on focaccia, available for weekend lunch, and a selection of starters and salads. On Mondays, Little Lark is also offering pinsas — airy Roman–style flatbreads similar to pizza but made with lower-gluten dough that’s easier to digest.

    “At the end of the day, we’re just going to be making really good wood-fired pizzas,” Lewis says. “We want to keep it simple … just do a handful of things really, really well.”

    The beverage program highlights light and crushable cocktails, with summer sippers like a spicy peach spritz and a limoncello margarita on offer at the moment. They’re rounded out with a tight roster of beers and wines — including natural options — by the glass or bottle.

    On the design side, the main dining room preserves Guild Row’s industrial character with high ceilings, exposed brick, and garage doors that open onto a courtyard. When the weather’s warm, diners will want to flock to the patio, which seats 70 to 75 and features its own dedicated bar.

    An outdoor dining patio.

    The patio is perfect for summer.
    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    An opening dining room with garage doors that open out onto a courtyard.

    Garage-style doors open up to let in fresh air.
    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    Lewis hopes Little Lark will be a fun, welcoming hub that amplifies the community vibe at Guild Row — a neighborhood spot where folks can drop in anytime for a bite or drink. And he’s excited to join Avondale’s expanding food scene, alongside established staples like Honey Butter Fried Chicken, Thattu, and Eden.

    Check out more photos of Little Lark’s offerings below.

    Little Lark, 3132 N. Rockwell Street. Open 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Friday; and 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

    A chopped salad.

    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    A Roman-style sandwich.

    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    A pinsa topped with summer vegetables.

    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    A charcuterie board.

    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

    A cocktail.

    Chris Peters/Eater Chicago

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    Jeffy Mai

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  • Tour Lincoln Park’s New Red-Sauce Italian Restaurant

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    A fresh splash of red sauce has arrived in Lincoln Park with the debut of Dimmi Dimmi Corner Italian. The Italian American restaurant is now open at 1112 W. Armitage Avenue, giving the neighborhood a new option for pastas, pizzas, and more.

    Dimmi Dimmi executive chef Matt Eckfeld, who was previously with New York-based Major Food Group and had stints at Italian hot spots like Carbone, Contessa, and ZZ’s Club, has crafted a menu that nods to classic red-sauce joints while adding modern twists. Carpaccio is presented Italian beef-style — thin slices of rare beef are layered with giardiniera, beef jus aioli, and Parmesan, and served with sesame sourdough. Hamachi crudo gets a bit of a kick through almond chili crisp. And raviolo “saltimbocca” is stuffed with guanciale, topped with prosciutto, and finished in white wine butter sauce.

    The pizzas are unmistakably Chicago, served tavern-style with classics like pepperoni and sausage alongside creative combos such as vodka sauce with sweet onions or mushrooms with garlic cream. The focaccia is another highlight. Pastry chef Casey Doody serves the bubbling hot bread straight out of the oven in a cast iron skillet, accompanied by optional dips like buffalo ricotta with honey and eggplant caponata. Her Italian desserts include tiramisu and affogato, plus a rich and decadent buttermilk chocolate cake.

    On the beverage front, expect cocktails such as a barrel-aged negroni, hazelnut espresso martini, and selection of spritzes, as well as nonalcoholic concoctions. There are also pours of amaro and grappa for a post-meal digestif.

    Eckfeld and the team hope Dimmi Dimmi becomes a neighborhood staple, where guests can gather over family-style meals and great food — and that journey has just begun. Check out more photos of the food and drinks below.

    Dimmi Dimmi Corner Italian, 1112 W. Armitage Avenue. Open 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday.

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    Jeffy Mai

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  • Inside Avondale’s Nostalgic Pierogi Palace

    Inside Avondale’s Nostalgic Pierogi Palace

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    One bite of Max Glassman’s pierogies is all it takes to taste the difference. In his alter-ego, Pierogi Papi, Glassman saves the city from mundane and limp Polish dumplings. He’ll stuff his with traditional fixings like cheese and potato but also deviate with braised beef or caramelized onion.

    He’s popped up across the city, including Moonwalker Cafe in Avondale. The Chicago Reader’s Monday Night Foodball hosted him at an event last year. But after years of wandering, it appears Glassman has found a semi-permanent base of operations in Logan Square at one of the city’s most unique bars, Consignment Lounge.

    Mark Pallman and Katie Piepel opened the bar in September 2022 in Avondale at 3520 W. Diversey Avenue and have stuffed the bar with a mishmash of trinkets liberated from estate sales, auctions, and antique malls. Pallman explains everything in the bar is for sale, including vintage sports memorabilia — he recalls a poster featuring members of the 1986 Super Bowl Champion Chicago Bears was a hot item. The poster captured players in the locker room wearing towels. There are also paintings, hats, old glassware, comics, and books: “It’s a smattering of things I like,” Pallman says.

    Just like bucia used to make.

    A cocktail in a highball.

    At $12 to $14, the cocktails are affordable.

    A bar with vintage gear stuffed into a shelves with loungey furniture.

    Everything is for sale.

    Piepl and Pallman were introduced to Glassman as a patron. The bar had a revolving slate of food vendors and Pierogi Papi blew them away. And so, for the last few weeks, Glassman has been a fixture on Thursdays and Fridays. Milo’s Market is another Consignment Lounge regular, popping up when the schedule permits. Their specialty is “beeria” grilled cheese.

    Pallman has a background in advertising and Piepl in real estate. The purchase of Consignment Lounge’s building was. at first, investment property for the couple, who have been married for four years: “I’ve always loved taverns and dive bar cocktails,” he says. They have a small staff of bar veterans. Jana Heili (Machine, The Walk-In) and Mark Bailie (SmallBar, Punch House) developed the drink recipes. KB Woodson (Stop Along, Harding Tap) handles staff relations.

    Consignment Lounge’s drinks aren’t as fancy — or expensive — as some cocktail lounges, but they’re well thought out and more than hold their own. Pallman says it’s the customer service that makes the bar special.

    Two bartenders working the stick.

    These bartenders have experience at some of Chicago’s most popular spots.

    Luxury, redefined.

    The space also has its share of CRT TVs, which they can hook up to a streaming device to watch movies or even live sports. Some customers are tricked into thinking there’s some sort of nostalgic video filter being applied. No, that’s just an old-school 4:3 aspect ratio.

    Hopefully, by spring, Consignment Lounge will unveil an enclosed patio that could hold 30 to 40 people. The bar should grow, Pallman says. After all, the original concept is the evolution of a basement.

    Walk through the space below.

    Consignment Lounge, 3520 W. Diversey Avenue, open 4 p.m. to midnight on Tuesday through Thursday; 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Friday; noon to 2 a.m. on Saturday; noon to midnight on Sunday. Pierogi Papi onsite at 6 p.m. until sold out on Thursday and Friday nights — check social media to confirm.

    Yes, that’s a St. Louis football Cardinals penant.

    Color TVs are huge.

    Get snacks and a show.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Inside Downtown’s Beefy New Pan Latin Spot From Celeb Chef Richard Sandoval

    Inside Downtown’s Beefy New Pan Latin Spot From Celeb Chef Richard Sandoval

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    Richard Sandoval’s career began in the ‘90s in New York, as the Mexico City-born chef opened a pair of French restaurants. Later, he opened Maya, a contemporary Mexican restaurant on the Upper East Side. Esteemed New York Times critic Ruth Reichl awarded the restaurant two stars.

    Sandoval’s star was bright and he opened restaurants all over America and the world. In Chicago, he opened a downtown food hall, Latinicity. He also partnered with several hotels, including the Conrad Chicago where he opened the rooftop restaurant Noyane and Baptiste & Bottle. Those restaurants all closed during the pandemic.

    Earlier this year, the celebrity chef returned to the Chicago market with Casa Chi, a Mag Mile restaurant that explores Nikkei cuisine. Now, this month, he opened another restaurant, Toro, a pan-Latin restaurant inside the Fairmont Chicago hotel near Millenium Park — technically it’s located in the Loop.

    The new restaurant is inside the Fairmont.

    Look for seafood and beef with flavors from Central and South Americas.

    The first Toro opened in 2014 in Scottsdale, Arizona, and there are similarities with other locations. For example, the Chicago menu shares items with Sandoval’s Houston restaurant, Toro Toro, which opened in November 2021. Smoked guacamole and swordfish dip are two appetizers from both restaurants. There are also sweet corn empanadas and short rib tacos. Picanha, a cut of beef with a thick fat cap that’s popular in Brazil, has been appearing on more menus stateside lately. Chicago diners will find American-raised wagyu versions of the cut at Toro. While absent from the Chicago restaurant’s name, the Houston location is labeled as a steakhouse. With the Picanha, a 52-ounce prime tomahawk ribeye for $220, for five more cuts of beef, Toro Chicago could also be considered a steakhouse. There are various raw bar items including ceviche made with Peruvian red snapper, bison tiradito, and a few sushi rolls including a vegan oyster mushroom selection.

    The cocktails also have a pan-Latin influence, and a press release touts the Flaming Coffee, a drink carted tableside via cart and mixed with rum, tequila, or bourbon and served with a flambéed cinnamon and sugar rim.

    Walk through the space below and check out some of the seafood dishes below.

    Toro Chicago, inside the Fairmont Chicago, 200 N. Columbus Drive, open 6 a.m. to midnight on Sunday through Thursday; 6 a.m. to 2 a.m. on Saturday. Reservations via OpenTable.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Behold West Town’s New Tavern-Style Pizzeria With an Edge

    Behold West Town’s New Tavern-Style Pizzeria With an Edge

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    West Town’s new pizzeria replacing Parson’s Chicken & Fish is here at long last. Dicey’s Pizza & Tavern has kept busy over the last week inside the former Parson’s at 2109 W. Chicago Avenue. Parson’s owners did a light remodel, matching the decor to the original Dicey’s that opened in 2022 in Nashville.

    Dicey’s specializes in Chicago thin-crust pizza, commonly known as tavern style. Though the pizzeria debuted in Tennessee, owners Land & Sea Dept. are a Chicago company known for Parson’s, Cherry Circle Room, Lonesome Rose, and other local restaurants and bars. Dicey’s pizza is razor-thin without the puffs customers can find on the edge of some Chicago crusts. Dicey’s uses cup-and-char pepperoni cups which start on one of its specialty pies, Peppy Boy (pepperoni, hot honey, mozzarella, parmesan, oregano, spicy tomato sauce). There’s also a classic sausage and giardiniera. For now, it’s dine-in and pick-up only.

    Dicey’s takes over the former Parson’s space.

    Three slices of Chicago pizza on a dish and a glass of beer.

    3 pizzas on a table.

    The vegan Earth Crisis (left), Pep Boy (center), and sausage and giardiniera.

    A close up of a sausage and giardiniera pizza.

    The crust is very thin and crunchy.

    A bowl of tots, a plate of Buffalo wings, and a salad.

    Tater tots, chicken wings, and salads are also on the menu.

    A vegan pizza without cheese is called Earth Crisis, a nod to the hardcore band from Syracuse, New York that’s famously straight edge and vegan. The pizza comes piled with tomato sauce, eggplant, roasted onions, chili flakes, basil, lemon, and olive oil. Dicey’s decor strays from Chicago tradition with motorcycles and skeletons (vaguely reminiscent of Twisted Spoke). It’s more of an edgy feel versus red and white tablecloths, and that makes the inclusion of a somewhat obscure hardcore band fit with the environment. Land & Sea co-owner Cody Hudson says the company’s art director, Drew Ryan, would wear Earth Crisis shirts at the office, and when it came to figuring out names for pizzas, the idea presented itself. Ryan also helped organize a hardcore show on the patio at Dicey’s in Nashville, which led to a collaboration with Nashville vegan bakery Guerilla Biscuits.

    But West Town, full of families, might not be the scene for hardcore. Don’t sweat it. Dicey’s has high chairs, even ones that are tall enough for high-top tables. Three pinball machines from Logan Arcade on the first floor, and a trio of vintage arcade cabinets on the second-floor ledge that houses an additional bar and more seats ideal for a large group. There are only two TVs in the space, which means this isn’t a sports bar. The old fireplace, a holdover from the old Old Oak Tap days, remains on the first floor.

    On the beverage side, there’s a mix of local beer and natural wines. There’s also frozen cocktails — they’re still using the machines left over from Parson’s. Some wine bottles are also available to go in a cooler in the back of the restaurant. The restaurant is also near All Together Now, one of the best wine stores in town, so that’s an option for carryout.

    Other standouts are juicy Buffalo wings, tater tots, and salads. A sign near the bathrooms declares that “you can win friends with salads,” a poke at the old Simpsons gag, and perhaps a sign of confidence in Dicey’s salad game.

    Dicey’s certainly talks a good game — they snagged space in an Esquire story last year about tavern pizza. But Chicago, no matter what Jerry Reinsdorf may say, is no Nashville. There’s more competition here. See if Dicey’s can walk the walk in the photos below.

    Dicey’s Pizza & Tavern, 2019 W. Chicago Avenue, (773) 697-3346, open 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 4 p.m. to midnight on Friday; 11 a.m. to midnight on Saturday; and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Sunday, order pickup via Toast

    The exterior of Dicey’s.

    The patio remain instact.

    The exterior of Dicey’s with large windows.

    Dicey’s is family friendly until the sun sets.

    The interior of Dicey’s Pizza.

    The space has done through a light remodel.

    The center bar at Dicey’s.

    Folks will recognize the fireplace from the Old Oak Tavern days.

    The cooler behind is for to-go drinks and stocked with bottles and cans of wine.

    The all-season room as three pinball machines from Logan Arcade.

    In the background, the stairs to the second-floor landing can be seen.

    “WWF Superstars,” “Battletoads,” and “Super Mario Bros.” can be played.

    A bar with stools and tables on the other end.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Inside Bridgeport’s Smash-Hit Bakery With Long Lines Fueled by Strawberry Milk Croissants and Mexican Mochas

    Inside Bridgeport’s Smash-Hit Bakery With Long Lines Fueled by Strawberry Milk Croissants and Mexican Mochas

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    The lines form about an hour before the 9 a.m. opening time, with customers waiting outside Fat Peach Bakery hoping to grab a treat like a strawberry milk croissant. Owners David Castillo and Kerrie Breuer opened their small bakery on August 31 at 2907 S. Archer Avenue, replacing the former Bridgeport Bakery, a neighborhood icon for nearly five decades.

    The lines start early at Fat Peach.

    Judging by the long weekend lines, the neighborhood has embraced the change. Fat Peach specializes in laminated pastries, and they’ve quickly sold out of croissants and Danishes while open three days a week — Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Breuer’s strawberry milk-filled croissants, a play on Strawberry Quik, has been one of the stars. Another highlight is a mushroom Danish which uses a paste made of sous vide mushrooms and English cheddar mornay sauce. It’s then twice-baked with an enoki mushroom conserva.

    “It takes me forever to make all of that — I don’t know of any place that does that,” Castillo says.

    12 mushroom danishes on a tray

    Mushroom Danish

    A couple wearing aprons inside their bakery with baked goods in a case.

    Kerrie Breuer and David Castillo are Bridgeport residents.

    There’s no online ordering option, for now. Castillo and Breuer have thought about opening on more days, but they want to ease into any expansion plans. Castillo’s resume includes working for Sodexo at the Shedd Aquarium and with Hogsalt, working at Restoration Hardware in Gold Coast. He worked for Rich Labriola and at White Oak Tavern in Lincoln Park. Breuer moved to Chicago in June 2019 from North Dakota. Her background is in cake decorating and she appeared on Amazon Studios’ Dr. Seuss Baking Challenge. The two met while working together at a Chicago bakery. Castillo, a Mexican American, grew up in suburban Blue Island. Breuer grew up in North Dakota after being adopted from South Korea.

    Castillo visited Mexico City as a child, and the bakeries there — using simple ingredients and techniques — left an impression. He wondered why he couldn’t find similar pastries in Chicago. He credits White Oak’s opening chef, John Asbaty, with sharing a similar philosophy in using the best ingredients in his dishes. That showed Castillo that bringing those memories of Mexico City to Chicago was possible. But not everything is hyperlocal and they’ll source from all over. Sourcing tropical fruits, for example, is a challenge during midwestern winters.

    A pink sign for Fat Peach Bakery on a house with blue siding.

    Fat Peach replaces Bridgeport Bakery, which was open for nearly 50 years.

    The interiors of Fat Peach bakery.

    Most of the business is to-go, but there is seating.

    Putting together creme-filled croissants.

    Fat Peach specializes in laminated pastries.

    A tray of pastries

    Fat Peach was inspired by Mexican bakery culture.

    “This place is kind of a mishmash of the best flour, local flour, butter we can get,” Castillo says. “But we also we also like to use fruit in our pastry — because who doesn’t want that? It’s a nice reminder of, you know, how sweet life can be.”

    They’re using Four Letter Word Coffee, and for Fat Peach’s mocha, they’re mixing chocolate and cinnamon from Mexico in their syrups. They’re looking for ways to incorporate more Mexican flavors into their pastries, waiting to see what their customers toward.

    Breuer left Korea when she was 6 and grew up with a white military family in America. As a teen, she spent a year in South Korea, familiarizing herself with the culture (she jokes that she sometimes considers herself a banana). Flavors like red bean, sesame, and matcha could be incorporated into future pastries. There have been tasty experiments like a kimchi-pimento Danish with English cheddar, and roasted potatoes with rosemary. Breuer wants balanced flavors that work versus gimmickery.

    The couple looked at spaces for six months and had targeted a location in suburban La Grange, but that deal fell through. The two are Bridgeport residents and pounded after Castillo noticed a “for lease” sign. It wasn’t exactly a turnkey operation. Beyond cleanup, the couple needed to purchase some new equipment which they found via Facebook Marketplace.

    Kerrie Breuer fills pastries.

    Let there be quiche.

    As Chicago’s demographics change and tastes continue to evolve, Fat Peach has a different bent compared to its European-focused predecessor. Customers won’t find Bridgeport Bakery’s sausage and bacon buns (the bakery officially closed in October 2021). They might not find paczkis either. Castillo says he doesn’t want to lean on the Polish doughnuts to sustain business. He’d rather Fat Peach be busy with unique offerings regularly.

    As far as the name? Yes, it’s no longer stonefruit season, but nothing on the menu ever contained peaches. The couple just loves puns.

    “I feel like everyone, like, wants to have a fat peach nowadays — especially the ladies,” Breuer says with a laugh.

    Fat Peach Bakery, 2907 S. Archer Avenue, open 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Inside Old Town’s Demure, Yet Mindful Modern French Fortress

    Inside Old Town’s Demure, Yet Mindful Modern French Fortress

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    Gavroche, a modern French restaurant from Jason Chan — one of the city’s most beloved industry figures — debuts in Old Town. The narrow space has been transformed into a cozy, yet comfortable 32-seat restaurant with a chef’s counter. The counter won’t be activated immediately as Chan says he hopes to provide guests with an omakase-style option.

    The chef’s counter service could include a la carte choices like hamachi nicoise, duo of foie gras, and turbot au four beurre blanc. Chan, who opened restaurants like Juno, Kitana, and Butter, says he scanned every menu from every French restaurant in Chicago. For the most part, they were the same, filled with classic fare. While Garvroche will honor the classics, Chan says there’s a new for contemporary cuisine to mimic what’s going on in Paris this minute. He’s brought on Mitchell Acuña to executive his vision. The chef is an alum of Boka, North Pond, and Sixteen. Chan is eager to see Acuña take chances and to give diners something they don’t expect. Chan tells Eater that Gavroche will either fill a nostalgic niche for customers who miss French haunts like Bistrot Margot — the French restaurant that closed nine years ago a few blocks south on Wells Street — or they’ll break new ground and draw a crowd excited to for something new.

    Classic opera cake is among three desserts on the menu from star pastry chef Christine McCabe. Beyond working at Charlie Trotter’s, McCabe has started a few bakeries including the Glazed & Infused doughnut chain and Sugar Cube, a sweets stall collaboration with Chan out of Time Out Chicago Market food hall.

    Chan says he isn’t done and has some ideas — perhaps a speakeasy-style bar that goes beyond just a gimmick entrance. For now, tour his latest and check out the menu. Old Town once more has a French restaurant, as Gavroche is open.

    Gavroche, 1529 N. Wells Street, open 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. daily, except closed on Tuesday.

    The garage door remains for better weather.

    It’s an eclectic space.

    A back wall with wine and a chandelier.

    A framed oval picture and two empty candle holders

    A bankers light with a book underneath mounted on a brick wall painted white.

    The wall of a bathroom with framed photos.

    The wall of a bathroom with framed photos.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Explore Ravenswood’s Newest Brewery Where Saisons Rule

    Explore Ravenswood’s Newest Brewery Where Saisons Rule

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    When Mike Schalau first launched Is/Was Brewing five years ago, a Redditor shared an image of the poster for the brewery’s release party with the note: “It’s a new project focusing on saison, so they’ll be making hazy IPAs in two weeks.”

    The demand for hazies has since cooled, but the Redditor’s remark still resonates with Schallau.

    “I’m not a petty person, but I saw that and I said to myself ‘hold my saison,’” he says.

    Is/Was still hasn’t released anything but saisons, and drinkers can try six different versions of the French/Belgian style at their new taproom at 5121 N. Ravenwood Avenue., which opened in August. Schallau, who lives in Ravenswood and has been contract brewing from Begyle Brewing, says he’d been eyeing the Malt Row building since Urban Brew Labs closed in 2022.

    The taproom is simply decorated with a colorful board on the exposed brick wall showing off the draft list. There are plenty of outlets in the curving booths to welcome locals who want to use the place for remote work along with a scattering of small tables and seats at the bar. A secondary space with room for 50 more is currently being used for overflow seating but Schallau is considering adding Skeeball or other fun activities.

    Delicate, yeast-driven saisons were Schallau’s favorite style when he first started getting into beer while working at West Lakeview Liquors, a shop at Addison and Leavitt that specializes in imported brews. But when Schallau joined Pipeworks Brewing Company, he devoted himself to learning and drinking their preferred styles — hoppy IPAs with high ABV.

    “As I went from an intern there to running all daily operations and overseeing recipe development, I’d kind of fallen out of love with making beer,” Schallau says. “I was kind of lost. Then I had a saison, La Vermontois, a collaboration between Belgian brewery Blaugies and Hill Farmstead in Vermont and I was like, ‘Ohh, I forgot. This is what I really fell in love with.’”

    He began experimenting with what would become his flagship, Will Be, seeking to fill a void in the Chicago market while appealing to evolving tastes. Most of Is/Was’ beers are about 3.2 percent ABVs, topping out with a rare 6 or 6.5 percent.

    A brick building with the words “Is/Was Brewing” on a rectangle sign.

    The back of a wooden bar stocked with glasses and bottles with a sign.

    “I think that a lot of craft beer drinkers are getting a little older and their palates are developing in a different way than when they wanted to drink super hoppy beers and really acidic kettle sours,” Schallau says. “Saison has these flavors that are really complex if you want to dive into what’s going on in the beer, or you can kind of crush a couple of them and they’ll be super satisfying and refreshing.”

    The taproom shows off the style’s versatility by pouring Is/Was’ Will Be, Wisp smoked saison, and Saison Effyrayant — which is conditioned with fresh sage leaves — along with rotating pours developed in collaboration with other breweries including Revolution Brewing. Schalau plans to start making some other styles once his new production brewery is up and running in about a month. Until then, there’s a selection of six guest drafts including Goldfinger Brewing Company’s flagship lager and Hop Butcher For The World’s Snorkel Squad double IPA.

    A hand holding up a goblet of red beer under a series of taps.

    Barry Brecheisen/Eater Chicago

    A goblet full of beer on a wooden surface.

    “Instead of making a mediocre version (of a style), we’d rather get the best version from our world-class brewery friends,” Schallau said. “We want people who don’t like saison to have a good time.”

    To that end, the brewery also serves Shacksbury Cider, Dark Matter nitro coffee, and a blackberry shrub prepared with Mick Klug Farms berries and housemade malt vinegar. Schalau would like to see the brewery become a third space for the neighborhood and while he doesn’t have a kitchen, he’s already hosted a popup with Motorshucker and arranged a 15% percent discount for customers who want to pick up a Detroit-style pie from Fat Chris’s Pizza and Such around the corner. He’s also planning on hosting makers markets to show off works made by his employees and artists the brewery works with.

    Schallau says he’s been overwhelmed with the response to the opening, which brought lines out the door for nearly five hours.

    “I spent most of the last five years (brewing beer) in a 600-square-foot room without windows and most of that time I was alone, wondering if anyone was drinking it or if anyone even really cared about this thing that I cared very deeply about,” he said. “It was a nice way to kind of physically manifest the fact that people had been paying attention. It was pretty emotional.”

    Is/Was Brewing, 5121 N. Ravenswood Ave., open noon to 9 p.m. Sunday and Tuesday through Thursday; noon to midnight on Friday and Saturday

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    Samantha Nelson

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  • ‘Buffy’ Pop-Up Deploys Candy Corn Malort for a True Chicago Nightmare

    ‘Buffy’ Pop-Up Deploys Candy Corn Malort for a True Chicago Nightmare

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    The Bronze ranks high among fictional TV teen hangouts. The adolescent club, depicted from 1997 to 2003 on Buffy The Vampire Slayer, was anti-establishment compared to the diner scene at Arnold’s from Happy Days or the Max’s wholesome vibe from Saved by The Bell. While the popular kids would frequent those places, the Bronze wasn’t for everyone. It was dark and moody. Bands no one had heard of would play there. This wasn’t a Peach Pit After Dark situation, the 90210 club was strictly for adults. The Bronze served coffee, juice, and soda. Not even Chicago’s famous all-ages bowling alley and punk club, the Fireside Bowl, never had NA options (though the Fireside had a Hammer, advantage: Fireside).

    The Bronze is the foundation for the Buffy: The Slayer Experience, a pop-up that debuts today, Friday, September 27 at the Wicker Park location of Cheesie’s Pub & Grub, 1367 N. Milwaukee Avenue. The pop-up extends next door to Cheesie’s sibling, Whiskey Business, utilizing the bar’s rooftop deck where designers have tapped into the horror aspect with a faux graveyard and a DJ booth. Unlike TV’s Bronze, the pop-up is 21+.

    The Vampire Bitters contains candy corn-infused malört.

    Whiskey Business/Cheesie’s has become the de facto home for holiday pop-ups from Bucketlisters, a company with roots in the Saved by The Bell pop-up that premiered eight years ago near Wicker Park’s Six Corners intersection. That pop-up earned a reputation for fan service and Easter eggs. Expect the same level of love when it comes to the gang from Sunnydale High School.

    The pop-up also leans into Doublemeat Palace, the fictional fast-food spot where Buffy Summers briefly worked. The menu features a burger, a sausage pizza puff with a side of ranch, chicken tenders, loaded tots, and fried pickles. Be assured that all the items have witty names tied to the show.

    A yellow wall with the DMP menu.

    DMP is a fictional fast-food chain.

    Loaded tots, tenders, burger, a pizza puff, and more.

    From tenders, the pizza puffs, the menu is simple.

    Drinks include a welcome cocktail, called Spike’s Bloodbag. There are six themed drinks, but take a closer look at Vampire Bitters. Candy corn might be the most polarizing Halloween candy. But is it as polarizing as Jeppson’s Malört? The drink features candy corn-infused Jeppson’s Malort, lime juice, and hibiscus syrup, topped with prosecco. No, it’s not the first time candy corn has been mixed with Chicago’s bitter liquor. Let’s avoid any hurt feelings.

    Wander through the space below. The pop-up runs through the end of October.

    Buffy: The Slayer Experience, 1367 N. Milwaukee Avenue, now through Sunday, October 27.

    The pizza puff

    The pizza puff

    A tray with stadium cheese over fried food.

    Loaded tots

    The burger on a brioche bun.

    The burger on a brioche bun.

    Five drinks with colorful garnishes in classes.

    Five of the six signature drinks.

    A stack of five red lockers.

    Sunnydale High football rules!

    A stack of eight red lockers with the words “Welcome to Sunnydale!” above.

    A wooden desk and office chair surrounding by fake bookshelves.

    Giles’ study.

    A bar with spider webs covering two flatscreens.

    The Bronze was an all-ages hangout.

    A tarot card reader.

    Spooky.

    The path toward upstairs.

    The bar is covered with spider-webs and candles.

    Stairs with spiderwebs.

    The stairs to the roofdeck.

    A DJ booth with The Bronze.

    A DJ booth is set up upstairs.

    It’s mandatory that the Misfits be mentioned in all Halloween pieces.

    A sign that reads “Restfield Cemetery” showing an entrance to a fake cemetery.

    Restfield is one of many cemeteries featured in the show.

    A fake cemetery with statues.

    What could go wrong?

    A grave showing where Buffy Summers was buried.

    Yes, Buffy did die.

    A Mausoleum that reads “Alpert”

    The Alpert Mausoleum was named for a show producer.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Explore Celebrities Jimmy Butler, Chase Rice, and Roquan Smith’s New Chicago Club

    Explore Celebrities Jimmy Butler, Chase Rice, and Roquan Smith’s New Chicago Club

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    River North, especially the area surrounding Hubbard Street, is one of Downtown Chicago’s busiest neighborhoods at night. Tourists and locals alike fill the bars, clubs, and restaurants with herds weaving in and out of traffic crawling to their next destination.

    The neighborhood’s latest addition is a joint venture between former Chicago Bulls star Jimmy Butler, country singer-songwriter Chase Rice, and former Chicago Bear Roquan Smith. The trio has opened the third location of Welcome to the Farm, a country music venue and club with locations in St. Petersburg, Florida and Cleveland. The celebrities are backed by Forward Hospitality Group, a Cleveland outfit that owns Good Night John Boy in West Loop. Fans of Barstool Sports may know one of the principals at Forward, Dante Deiana. Deiana’s a DJ and writer for the infamous media company.

    The Bears might actually be worth watching in 2024. Probably.

    A barbecue platter with meats, ribs, and cornbread, plus metal dipping cups with sauce.

    Spare ribs, pulled turkey, brisket, and short ribs are on the menu.

    A nachos platter with slice jalaepeno

    Smoked brisket nachos

    A skylight with a sliding roof over a lounge.

    The space’s retractable roof remains.

    They’ve remodeled the former Fremont, keeping the retractable roof and modernizing the space which has a stage for small concerts and room for 300. They’ll offer bottle service late into the night. But for folks into food, country music often goes well with smoked meats, and on the restaurant side they’ll serve brisket nachos, smoked chicken wings, pulled pork sandwiches (a Cuban served Miami style also uses the pork), plus spare ribs, short ribs, turkey, and sausage. Fried chicken and tenders are on the menu, as well. Forward Executive Chef Raheem Sealey debuted the menu in Florida at Drinking Pig BBQ, and now he brings his meats and treats up north.

    Does this follow U.S. Flag Code? Well, the DQ sign doesn’t object.

    Bowls, like this one with crispy cauliflower, are also available as lighter options.

    The buttermilk-brined fried chicken sandwich.

    Butler, a perennial All-Star, also played in Minnesota and Philadelphia before finding at home with the Miami Heat. He his own coffee company. He launched BIGFACE in 2020 during the pandemic, when the NBA brought all its playoff teams to Orlando, Florida to limit travel and the spread of COVID. The Bubble and its restrictions made it hard for players and coaches to find a good cup of coffee, so Butler seized the opportunity. For the first time ever, customers will be able to taste BIGFACE drinks in a restaurant setting. A news release touts “new specialty coffee products from Butler’s coffee brand BIGFACE that are available to consume while taking in the scene.”

    Check out the space and some of the menu items below.

    Welcome to the Farm, 15 W. Illinois Street, (312) 833-2080, open noon on weekdays, and 11 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday; kitchen open until 1 a.m.

    There are plenty of screens on the side.

    Feast upon the meats, bowls, and more.

    Watch out for drinks in coffee cups.

    Negronis are nice.

    The straw is a nice touch.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Lettuce Entertain You Brings Ema to the North Shore

    Lettuce Entertain You Brings Ema to the North Shore

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    Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises has brought its hit Ema to the suburbs hoping the North Shore appreciates chef and partner CJ Jacobson’s menu that mixes California cool with Mediterranean. The concept debuted in River North in 2016 and Lettuce has spun that into a sibling concept called Aba, which begot locations in Fulton Market; Austin, Texas; and Miami.

    The buildout in Glenview is impressive, a radical departure from what most associate with the suburbs, taking a page from notable suburban debuts like RH Oak Brook, which channels the energy from the original in Gold Coast. The new Ema features a skylight and a light and breezy design with a track record in other markets.

    In Glenview, Jacobson hopes to win over the lunch crowd with more salads — the chef says for the first time he’s offering a chopped salad (with ​​arugula, romaine, cauliflower, caper, date, parmesan, olive, red pepper). A Caesar’s salad is made with a tahini-spiked dressing. The restaurant’s staple dips, including hummus with lamb ragu and a South Asian-street-influenced bhel hummus made with tamarind and mint chutney, are also available.

    Jacobson mentions the restaurant’s origins, as LEYE co-founded Rich Melman wanted a Mediterranean restaurant. Jacobson doesn’t possess that family background, saying at first he only knew the cuisine through late-night kebob spots in LA. That’s one of the reasons Ema doesn’t focus on a particular region or country. Jacobson compares how Chinese and Italian cuisine proliferated in America, and how locals interpreted those foods using American ingredients. Jacobson feels foods from the Mediterranean haven’t had the chance to go through those filters, and that’s how he approaches Ema. For example, the lamb & beef kofta comes with a hoisin sauce, drawing from Chinese influences. Since Ema’s conception, Jacobson’s experience has endeared him to the culture and cuisine. He’s traveled to the region and he recounts spending time at a late-night Israeli club known for its hummus. After eight years of research, he says Ema has developed a point of view which is what’s made the brand successful.

    A kebob with sauce

    Lamb & beef kofta.

    pita basket with spinach and feta.

    Pita with spinach and feta spread.

    Jacobson has worked with Lettuce since 2014, when he was one of the chefs at the company’s rotating Intro Chicago restaurant in Lincoln Park. He knows the company isn’t known for short menus. They’re big and feature many items to cater to the pickiest. Jacobson doesn’t necessarily agree with that philosophy and says he constantly worries that customers won’t branch out and try something new.

    “Can we be good at all this stuff?” Jacobson asks rhetorically.

    Lettuce Entertain You is Chicago’s largest restaurant group and the Melman family’s strategy of ensuring the customer is always right has been successful for 53 years. “I kind of get proved wrong time and time again,” Jacobson adds.

    Jacobson ponders his future with Lettuce, saying that he’s due to pitch the Melmans on a new restaurant idea. While he ponders, he reflects on Ema and Aba.

    “Anytime you spend this amount of time with a cuisine, it becomes a part of who you are,” he says.

    Ema Glenview, 1320 Patriot Road in Glenview, lunch is 11:30 to 4 p.m., until 3 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday; dinner is 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Thurday, until 10 p.m. on Friday; 3 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Saturday and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Sunday.

    Hamachi on rice cracker with Fresno pepper.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Inside This South Loop Supper Club With Food From a French Laundry Alum

    Inside This South Loop Supper Club With Food From a French Laundry Alum

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    Two years ago, Entree introduced itself to Chicago, taking over the South Loop space where the city’s only Michelin-starred restaurant south of Roosevelt stood. Entree delivered meal kits, searching for a sweet spot for folks fed up with fees and mistakes from third-party couriers and restaurant customers who missed eating out during the pandemic. As the business grew, its owners knew they had an asset in their dining room. They threw pop-ups and opened the bar area earlier this year while unveiling a new name for on-premise dining, Oliver’s.

    In late August the time finally arrived as Oliver’s dining room finally debuted. The added real estate will give Oliver’s chef Alex Carnovale more room to play. He’s already established a menu of favorites including roast chicken, a burger, and diver scallops. The French Laundry alum has shown his ambitions while developing the menus for Entree’s delivery side. With Oliver’s, Carnovale no longer has to worry about whether his food will survive a car ride.

    The space is warmer, with a supper club feeling that presents a departure from the modern vibe of the previous tenant. Specifically, Oliver’s was going for a 1930s speakeasy feel. It’s a comfy place to enjoy truffle gnocchi or tomato risotto. As the bar opened first, the drink program had time to mature under the leadership of Luke DeYoung who worked a Sepia and Scofflaw. A gin martini is garnished with caviar-stuffed olive. There are non-alcoholic options, and a deep wine list, too. Happy hour specials have already launched, and bar snacks include Italian beef popcorn, cheddar fries, and beef-fat griddled sourdough from Publican Quality Bread. The latter is served with whipped parmesan and steak sauce.

    Walk through the space below. Oliver’s dining room is now open.

    Oliver’s, 1930 S. Wabash Avenue, open 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, reservations via Tock.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • Inside Mirra, Where a Medley of Mexican and Indian Flavors Coexist

    Inside Mirra, Where a Medley of Mexican and Indian Flavors Coexist

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    Vice President Kamala Harris — the daughter of an Indian woman and Jamaican man — took the podium on Thursday night at the Democratic National Convention at the United Center, three weeks after former President Donald Trump lied about her identity during an interview in Chicago. This may resurface those silly concerns about whether something can be two things at once.

    Mirra, a unique restaurant that mixes South Asian and Mexican flavors, is out to prove that duality can exist. The restaurant debuted on Thursday in Bucktown adding another notable recent opening to the area surrounding Damen and Armitage avenues. Neither of the restaurant’s two chefs have Mexican roots. Zubair Mohajir is a James Beard Award nominee for his work at Coach House, his fine-dining Indian restaurant in Wicker Park. Rishi Manoj Kumar is ethnically Indian and from Singapore. He learned to love Mexican food as he worked with Rick Bayless at Bar Sotano in River North.

    South Asian and Mexican flavors mingle at Mirra.

    Their restaurant aims to highlight the tales of South Asian migration in America, stories like how Harris’ mother arrived when she was 19 to go to college. It’s how Northern Indians from Punjab settled in California to build railroads and mingled with Mexicans in the late 19th century. That produced the ubiquitous roti quesadilla which ditched the traditional Mexican tortilla for Indian flatbread. Mirra’s version features roasted mushroom and Amul (a processed cheese from India; the chefs at Logan Square’s Superkhana International use it in their famed butter chicken calzone). The opening menu also features a dum biryani with braised lamb barbacoa. This isn’t a typical biryani diners would buy from a street vendor. Dum biryani is fancy and sealed with a pastry shell over the rice and meat to preserve the aromatics.

    A close up of table with plates

    Mohajir enjoys chatting with customers at the chef’s table at Coach House. It was there where Mirra took shape as the Southern Indian chef, who grew up in Qatar, found a story of an Indian girl, Mirra, kidnapped and taken to Mexico. He used Mirra’s history as inspiration. A popular Mexico City restaurant, Masala y Maiz, also played a role. In 2022, chefs ​​Norma Listman and Saqib Keval traveled to Chicago and popped up at Bar Sotano after befriending Kumar. Listman is a native of Texcoco, a city about 15 miles northeast of Mexico City. Keval’s parents are from Ethiopia and Kenya; their families were from India, arriving in Africa two centuries prior. They met while working in San Francisco’s Bay Area.

    A bowl sealed with a pastry.

    Dum biryani with lamb barbacoa sealed with roti.

    As the idea for Mirra matured, Mohajir and Kumar realized they needed to be more honest. Instead of aping Listman and Keval’s template, they needed to tell their own stories; neither one of them is Mexican. So they shifted and changed the restaurant’s design and changed the menu to better reflect their ideals.

    While a tasting menu will eventually arrive on Wednesday, September 4, the opening a la carte menu is accessible with crispy tacos filled with Mexican green curry and scallops, a tandoori and adobo Cornish hen, and a carne asada made with a 40-day dry-aged ribeye and salsa macha. It’s served with mashed roasted eggplant, known as bagan bharta to South Asians. A happy hour menu includes birria samosas, oysters, and drinks from partner David Mor. Mor made the drinks for Mohajir’s Lilac Tiger — the bar in front of Coach House — and has his own establishment. Truce, just up the street from Mirra, was one of the bigger bar openings of 2024. Tony Perez, who also works a Lilac Tiger, curates the wines.

    Chicken plated with sauce.

    Tandoori and adobo Cornish hen.

    Meen Moilee (yellowfin tuna, moilee-style leche de tigre, confit Sungold tomatoes, avocado)

    Meen Moilee (yellowfin tuna, moilee-style leche de tigre, confit Sungold tomatoes, avocado)

    Crispy Tacos (Hudson Bay scallops, Mexican green curry, nopales pico, crispy fenugreek roti)

    Crispy Tacos (Hudson Bay scallops, Mexican green curry, nopales pico, crispy fenugreek roti)

    Desserts at traditional South Asian restaurants are sometimes lacking. At Mirra, they’ve combined rasmalai, a Northern Indian sweet made with cheese, with tres leches cake serving it with saffron-cardamom-infused milk. There’s also a rice pudding which should remind diners of flan with nods to kheer, an Indian sweet made with sugar and milk.

    Chef Oliver Poilevey, whose family’s French restaurant, Le Bouchon, is down the street from Mirra, says his father, Jean-Claude Poilevey, would not approve of his son using Vietnamese fish sauce in French food. Fusion is a term that’s used sparingly, with chefs fearful that cultures are mashed together without respect for tradition. That’s not what’s happening at Mirra, Kumar and Mohajir say. Their dishes are created thoughtfully. It’s not just about combining cultures by hastily stuffing tandoori chicken into a tortilla and celebrating. Mirra shows how Mexican and South Asian spices and food can complement each other without worry if this is ridiculous cosplay.

    Walk through the space below.

    Mirra, 1954 W. Armitage Avenue, open 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday; tasting menu starts Wednesday, September 4. Reservations via OpenTable.

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • One of Chicago’s Top Mexican Restaurants Is Coming to Logan Square

    One of Chicago’s Top Mexican Restaurants Is Coming to Logan Square

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    Chicagoans have hit the culinary jackpot with a dazzling array of regional Mexican dishes available at their fingertips including strong local representation from states like Guerrero, Jalisco, and Michoacán. Dive deeper, and you’ll find more specific offerings, hailing from narrow regions and even small towns.

    Uptown’s Kie-Gol-Lanee has ignited interest in Oaxacan cuisine as siblings María and Reynel Mendoza and their spouses, Léonides Ramos and Sandra Sotz, have dished out flavors from Santa María Quiegolani since 2016. Meaning “old stone” in the Zapotec dialect, the restaurant’s name is a phonetic nod to the small village in Oaxaca’s southern Sierra where María, Reynel, and Léonides grew up. The menu is inspired by recipes passed down through generations and Michelin has listed it for four years as a Bib Gourmand, which recognizes quality and value.

    More and more Oaxacan restaurants are opening in Chicago.

    Corn tortilla folded with cactus, radish, and queso fresco.

    Tlacoyo with nopoles.

    Tamales oaxaquenos.

    Carne asada tlayuda.

    Later this month, the family will open its second location in Logan Square at the former Mezcala Agave Bar and Kitchen at 2901 W. Diversey. The new location will continue to sell its celebrated Oaxacan-style tamales steamed in banana leaves, and garnachas (a corn patty resembling a sope topped with pork, radish, cilantro, cheese, and cabbage). María Mendoza began making the Oaxacan delicacy at home after an injury kept her from going to work. A friend sent a sample to chef Enrique Cortéz, who was impressed by her culinary skills and began serving the tamales at his restaurant. Soon after, Cortéz moved on and decided to sell his eatery to the family, helping them through the transition from restaurant workers to restaurant owners.

    The Logan Square restaurant will offer the beloved plates that delight patrons at its Uptown location, featuring weekly specials and breakfast plates on weekends. The dinner menu features well-known regional staples including a fall-off-the-bone lamb shank, and the traditional tlayudas — a giant corn tostada-like base decked out with options that include thinly sliced, salt-cured cecina, steak, chorizo, or zucchini and mushrooms. Additionally, the menu offers interesting dishes that showcase ingredients from the Oaxacan Sierra, such as quail, rabbit, and grasshoppers.

    Ahead of the opening, the team is working on new cocktails such as a tres leches martini, an old-fashioned Oaxacan style, and a drink featuring the fermented, sweet, and slightly tart, cider-like tepache with grasshoppers. Wishing to support their community back home, Kie-Go-Lanee has two mezcal brands on its beverage menu, Huésped and Clan 55. Both are produced in Santa María Quiegolani and aim to offer youth in their hometown an opportunity to flourish and a reason to stay.

    When it comes to desserts, until very recently, Kie-Go-Lanee was one of the few, if not the only spot in the city that regularly offered Nicuatole, a corn-based dessert similar to gelatin but with a silkier texture and, depending on the fruit added, sometimes a bit of a gritty texture.

    The new location will continue to capture the warmth of an Oaxacan home, says Fernanda Guardado, the restaurant’s designer and head of marketing. A mural depicting alebrijes, sculptures of creatures — amalgamations of different animals that burst with vibrant colors and cultural motifs — will also be found at the second location, showcasing the restaurant’s blue and bright pink. “They remind me of home,” says María Mendoza.

    Check out the food photos below and stay tuned for updates on an opening date.

    Kie-Gol-Lanee Logan Square, 2901 W. Diversey Avenue, opening in August.

    Huitalcoche tlacoyos.

    lamb shank covered with red mole.

    Lamb shank

    Garnacha

    A cast iron skillet filled with red mole and guac.

    Enchiladas de mole

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    Brenda Storch

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  • A Oaxacan Chef Sets a New Goal in Lakeview

    A Oaxacan Chef Sets a New Goal in Lakeview

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    While not abundant, Mexican food does exist in Finland. Carlos López Muñoz found out firsthand after spending a year in the country, encouraged to make the journey from a high school exchange student. He attended school and played semiprofessional soccer for VG-62 Naantali in the southwestern part of Finland. He played as an attacking forward.

    Muñoz found one “legit” restaurant while in Finland, in Turko: “Everything else I had was tacos, burritos, hard shells,” he says, recalling when he was 17. His time abroad sparked questions about his Oaxacan heritage and he began wondering more about gastronomy.

    Last week, he launched his restaurant, Istmo, in Lakeview on Clark, just north of Belmont. Istmo will eventually introduce dinner — including a prix fixe option. But for now, they’ll focus on breakfast and lunch,

    The chef’s resume also includes more traditional culinary experience. He returned home to Mexico, finished culinary school, and eventually moved to Chicago where he staged with Carlos Gaytán at Michelin-starred Mexique (Muñoz was originally enrolled in a program through Disney which would have stationed him at Disney World in Orlando. The partnership with the Mouse didn’t work out as Muñoz fell in love with cooking).

    Muñoz also worked with Rick Bayless, joining a list of Mexican-born chefs who honed their skills in Chicago. Muñoz also befriended Diego chef Stephen Sandoval and oversaw the kitchen at Leña Brava, working there before and after Bayless exited the West Loop restaurant. Muñoz’s black mole, which unites the culinary traditions of both his grandmothers — sweet and rich, with tart from pineapple — remains at the restaurant. Muñoz says he worked four to five years perfecting the recipe, but he’s not possessive. He’s happy when others enjoy his family’s culinary traditions.

    After spending seven months in D.C., he returned home to Chicago. This brings us back to the present, as Istmo provides an enticing option for Cubs fans who want an alternative to the Ricketts family’s Hotel Zachary complex.

    Istmo is backed by Juan Carlos, the owner of Xurro Churro Factory, a popular dessert chain with locations all over the city. Istmo’s beverage program is also top-notch. Carlos owns North Center cocktail bar Raizes, so expect serious drinks. There’s also a full espresso bar with coffee imported from Nicaragua and Mexico.

    Istmo is named Istmo de Tehuantepec, the largest region in the state of Oaxacan — where Muñoz hails. While Oaxacan food isn’t new to Chicago, Muñoz says Istmo’s menu is distinctive and underrepresented. He’d joke that during preshift Bayless would needle him and observe that all his menu ideas stemmed from family dishes. Istmo food is heavy on seafood and pickled and cured ingredients. There are also Lebanese influences.

    “These are flavors that I honestly haven’t seen in Chicago,” Muñoz says.

    Muñoz hopes his restaurant can cater to a variety of tastes, even vegans. It’s easy when you have a cheat code: “If you have a good mole, it’s going to be a great dish,” Muñoz says, knowing mole is naturally vegan.

    Lakeview and Wrigleyville can be a challenging space for a restaurant that wants to challenge the status quo. That’s why Muñoz is starting with breakfast and lunch while easing into dinner. But he’s confident that “everyone surrenders to Mexican cuisine at some point.”

    Walk around the space and check out more food photos below.

    Istmo, 3231 N. Clark Street, open 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Wednesday through Sunday

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    Ashok Selvam

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  • A Local Hut of Pizza With New York Slices Hopes to Outduel the Competition

    A Local Hut of Pizza With New York Slices Hopes to Outduel the Competition

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    The owners of Replay Lincoln Park are continuing to serve up ‘90s pop-culture nostalgia with the arrival of a New York-style pizza shop inside the former Broken English Taco Pub in Lincoln Park.

    Seemingly a call out to the space’s former life 14 years ago as Hoagie Hut, hospitality veteran Mark Kwiatkowski has opened the Slice Hut at Neon Gardens inside the sprawling unique corner space at Lincoln and Sheffield. The Hut, which opened in early June at 2580 N. Lincoln Avenue, represents the first phase of a two-part opening featuring gelato, Sicilian slices, and whole pies.

    The Slice Hut is open in Lincoln Park.

    The space went through extensive remodeling in 2015 — melding a few neighboring buildings into a single complex. Kwiatkowski says he’s long wished for a New York-style specialist in the neighborhood. He also understands the power of a nostalgic reference — he’s deployed a team of artists while producing a lengthy list of unofficial pop-up events, tapping into a potent cast of characters synonymous with pizza parties. “We started thinking about pizza — what’s the pop-culture reference?” he says. “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles partnered with Pizza Hut in the ‘90s for a promotional deal, and the Slice Hut lends itself perfectly to a retro Pizza Hut-inspired design.”

    The 16-seat space evokes a time capsule of the chain in its heyday, from its exposed brick walls and Coca-Cola clock to Pizza Hut’s signature red-and-white checkerboard tablecloths. Pizza options include chicken bacon ranch (Italian pico), Buffalo chicken with blue cheese sauce, and macaroni and cheese, alongside pizza pinwheels that resemble cinnamon buns, salads, sandwiches, and gelato from Vero Coffee & Gelato in suburban Elmwood Park. There’s a loading zone outside for takeout customers and a walk-up window for those who want to grab a quick slice from the sidewalk.

    Two New York-style pizzas behind a counter.

    Pies are available whole or by-the-slice.

    A pizza shop with exposed brick walls and red-and-white checkerboard tablecloths.

    The Slice Hut’s design pays tribute to a certain infamous pizza chain.

    Not content to open just one new business, the team is preparing to launch adjoining spot Neon Gardens, a full-service restaurant and bar that takes the chaotic aesthetic of four famous, ninjutsu-trained reptiles to new heights. It will open Friday, July 19 with a 50-seat bar area bears a gallery wall of works from Renaissance painters (say, Michelangelo) that the squad altered with spray paint and illustrations, and a sunny atrium (which also seats 50) designed to resemble an overgrown Roman statuary garden laden with graffiti, as if “some street artist came in and had all this great canvas to play with,” Kwiatkowski says.

    It also houses a game room, which embraces the neon-lit, underground energy of the Turtles’ sewer lair complete with slimy green substances oozing down the walls and more than a dozen games including darts, shuffleboard, and arcade games. Patrons can also expect an array of TVs hooked up to multi-game consoles with hits like Super Smash Bros. that will rotate based on popularity. The venue is topped off with a patio where the team can host pop-ups, kicking off later this summer with a Portofino-themed event with Aperol spritzes, salumi, and TikTok-friendly visuals like a Vespa and classic Italian films on a projection screen.

    A dining room atrium with large red booths and street art all over the walls.

    The atrium’s design bears a whiff of late-stage capitalism.

    During the day, Neon Gardens is a family-friendly affair, but after 9 p.m., staff will dim the lights, turn up the music, and transform the space into a 21-and-up venue. Kwiatkowski hopes it will attract a lively crowd and help boost the neighborhood’s energy overall. “Lincoln Park is coming back — it sleepy for so many years,” he says. “but now, with some of the young people who are maybe a little tired of River North or West Loop, it’s got some energy and excitement again.”

    Behold the Slice Hut and Neon Gardens in the photographs below.

    The Slice Hut at Neon Gardens, 2580 N. Lincoln Avenue.

    A person lifts a slice from a chicken bacon ranch pizza.

    Chicken bacon ranch pizza.

    A round tray of cinnamon bun-shaped pizza pinwheels.

    Pizza pinwheels.

    A row of New York-style pizzas behind a counter.

    A pizza shop with exposed brick walls.

    A long bar space with a bright purple bar.

    The bar area at Neon Gardens applies a street art-style spin to classic Renaissance paintings.

    A close-up of a piece of wall art.

    A close-up of a table and chairs beside a window.

    A dining room atrium with red furniture.

    Neon Gardens’ atrium seats 50.

    A dining room atrium with red furniture.

    A section of a game room filled with arcade and video games.

    Go ninja, go ninja, go — to the game room.

    Two arcade games inside Neon Gardens’ game room.

    Don’t eat that green ooze.

    A wall painted with cartoon characters.

    A table and arcade games inside Neon Gardens’ game room.

    A close-up of a retro video game unit.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Cubs Fans Can Now Nosh on Pizza Bagels and Reubens Across From Wrigley Field

    Cubs Fans Can Now Nosh on Pizza Bagels and Reubens Across From Wrigley Field

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    When Aaron Steingold opened his modern Jewish deli Steingold’s of Chicago in 2017, he already had baseball on the brain. A lifelong fan and self-described baseball historian who attended games at Yankee Stadium in the Bronx as a child, he harbored a dream of opening a location near Wrigley Field, the famed home of the Chicago Cubs.

    Seven years later, Steingold is swinging for the fences with Steingold’s Bagels & Nosh, a new location across the Friendly Confines inside the Hotel Zachary. Steingold’s features classic deli hits and playful new additions and officially opened its doors Thursday, July 11 in the 1,200-square-foot former home of West Town Bakery at 3630 N. Clark Street.

    “It’s always been a part of my long-term goals to open something closer to the ballpark,” says Steingold, nodding toward the longstanding romance between American Jews and the iconic game. “Nostalgia is a big part of our cuisine… and baseball is as Americana as it gets, so it’s a match made in heaven for us.”

    All but five of the deli’s 28 seats have a view of Wrigley Field.

    Steingold’s Bagels & Nosh aims to pull off a tricky balancing act of maintaining tradition — the subject of animated discussion among Jews for millennia — while surviving and thriving in the modern era. That means fans can count on staples like hot pastrami on rye, classic bagel and lox sandwiches (the deli’s number-one seller, says Steingold), latkes, and bagels in bulk. The dynamics of ballpark crowds and hotel guests have also prompted some fresh additions like the Traditional, a build-your-own sandwich with numerous meat, cheeses, and condiments to choose from, and customizable breakfast sandwiches with new vegetarian ingredients like culinary director Cara Peterson’s (whose experience includes working at New Orleans’ award-winning Shaya) red lentil patties. Steingold has offered Vienna Beef bagel dogs on and off for a few years, but at Bagels & Nosh, they’re a permanent menu item with brown mustard for dipping.

    In a sign of the times, Steingold has for the first time added gluten-free bagels to the lineup, sourced from California-based brand Original Sunshine, as well as a few additional vegetarian open-faced bagel sandwiches. “We’re hoping to not just be [associated] with the high-calorie, heavy-duty sandwiches that people probably know us for,” he says.

    A large neon sign that reads “Steingold’s” behind a deli counter.

    Design elements like subway tile lend the feel of a classic Ashkenazi-style deli.

    A deli case filled with baked goods and smoked fish.

    The Steingold’s team designed the tiny space for maximum speed and efficiency.

    That isn’t to say that Bagels & Nosh is a health food spot — Steingold tapped operations director Sean Courtney to design a drink menu, which includes a dozen mostly local draft beers, “easy-drinking” wines, and rotating boozy slushies like a frozen watermelon limonada that riffs on Middle Eastern mint lemonade. The team has plans for “deli-inspired” concoctions like a twist on a classic egg cream for the winter. In the coming weeks, the deli will kick off knock-and-drop service for hotel guests, delivering smoked fish platters and more to their doors.

    Explore Steingold’s Bagels & Nosh in the photographs below.

    Steingold’s Bagels & Nosh, 3630 N. Clark Street, open daily from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m.

    A close-up of the door at Steingold’s Bagels & Nosh.

    Longtime collaborator Heart & Bone Signs applied all the gold leaf lettering.

    An exterior photo of Steingold’s Bagels & Nosh.

    A window inside Steingold’s Bagels & Nosh looking out on Wrigley Field.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Jennivee’s New Lakeview Bakery Is Both Pinker and Posher

    Jennivee’s New Lakeview Bakery Is Both Pinker and Posher

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    For the past seven years, Filipina baker Jenni Vee has proven that she understands celebrations need a cake, it’s the centerpiece for parties, birthdays, weddings, and everyday revelries. So when Vee decided to celebrate trans communities, she thought deeply about representing herself and fellow trans women with an immaculate confection swirling with the pink, white, and blue colors of the trans pride flag.

    Vee has a lot to celebrate with the debut of her second location, Jennivee’s Bakery & Cafe, which opened Friday, June 28 at 2925 N. Halsted Street. Peachy, peppy, and polished, the roomy space reflects the effervescent style and energy of its owner, also clad in a pink ensemble, with nods to classic Parisian charm with a black-and-white checkerboard floor and crystal chandeliers also seen at the original bakery.

    Trans Girl Magic cake (lemon pound cake, strawberry filling, vanilla buttercream).

    “Trans Girl Magic cake is near and dear to my heart,” Vee says of the buttercream-frosted lemon poundcake with strawberry filling. “It’s bright, it’s fruity, it’s vibrant — kind of like how I would describe the trans community as a whole!”

    When all the tables arrive (supply chain delays continue to plague the hospitality industry), it will seat up to 50 alongside long, glowing pastry cases packed with signature hits like ube-chiffon purple velvet cake and bright green buko pandan cupcakes. There’s a selection of gelatos and an espresso bar, where the team serves Sparrow coffee and caffeinated interpretations of Vee’s creations — think banana Biscoff lattes and tiramisu affogato.

    A round white table holds three pink plates of coffee and baked goods.

    Peachy pink tones lend a warm and friendly atmosphere.

    A person pours espresso on top of a scoop of gelato.

    Luca Del Sol affogato (pistachio gelato, lemon cake, espresso).

    Once staff have settled in and operations are running smoothly, Vee says she’d like to add sweet and savory Filipino breakfast and brunch staples. It was an option she hadn’t considered in 2017 when she opened her original bakery in a tiny space at Sheffield and Aldine in Lakeview. At the time, Vee and her mother were the only employees and she “didn’t know the first thing about running a business,” she says. “All I knew is I wanted to create cakes that people would love and a safe space that’s very inclusive and welcoming to everyone.”

    That was five years before fine dining juggernaut Kasama became the world’s first Michelin-starred Filipino restaurant, sparking a “boom” of interest in upscale Pinoy cuisine, Vee says. She is eager to leverage the opportunity to extend that excitement to pastry and baked goods by highlighting the country’s significant pantheon of sweet and savory delights.

    “We have a rich culture and history of pastry [influenced by] 400 years of Spanish colonization,” she says. “The beauty of Filipino cusine is that it’s so diverse and regional. I’m from an island called Cebu where we have our own traditional pastries and breakfast items that I want to showcase. And now we have the space to do it!”

    Venture inside Jennivee’s Bakery & Cafe and peek at its menu items in the photographs below.

    Jennivee’s Bakery & Cafe, 2925 N. Halsted Street.

    A large cafe space with a large pastry case and black-and-white checkerboard floor.

    The new bakery is significantly larger than the original Jennivee’s.

    A curved glass pastry case filled with cakes and cupcakes.

    A tray of purple velvet cupcakes inside a glass pastry case.

    A plate of three Filipino breakfast pastries.

    Yema polvoron ensaimada (right), ube coconut macaroon muffin (left), longanisa cheddar scone.

    Two pink coffee cups with colorful lattes.

    Lattes come in flavors like blue matcha and purple velvet.

    A cooler with a row of gelatos.

    Gelato is a new addition to the Jennivee’s lineup.

    A glass of purple gelato.

    Purple velvet gelato.

    A paper cup of bright green gelato.

    Buko pandan gelato.

    A rainbow Pride flag on the street in Lakeview.

    A cafe and bakery storefront with a large rainbow balloon display.

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    Naomi Waxman

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  • Explore Downtown Chicago’s Luxurious New Korean Steakhouse

    Explore Downtown Chicago’s Luxurious New Korean Steakhouse

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    While it’s not as rare for a Chicago hotel to provide a memorable dining experience anymore, there’s still a status quo. But as hotels and real estate change hands, new owners are more apt to take risks, departing from the tired troupe of a serviceable restaurant that may offer a menu that caters to a wide variety of tastes without serving up anything exceptional.

    An opportunity popped up in 2022 when Seoul-based Lotte Group purchased the 13-story former Kimpton Hotel Monaco Chicago. They needed restaurant operators and picked Andrew Lim and Thomas Oh of Perilla Korean American Fare, one of the city’s best Korean spots, a restaurant known for Korean barbecue and its contemporary vision. In turn, the new Perilla Korean American Steakhouse hopes to upset that status quo, leading with items like wagyu bavette — perhaps chef Andrew Lim’s answer to LA kalbi; Chicago is known for butcher’s cuts.

    Though every table at the 111-seat restaurant inside the newly opened L7 Chicago hotel — near the corner of Wacker Drive and Wabash — is outfitted with a grill top, this new endeavor is different from the Korean barbecues that Chicagoans would expect in Koreatown in Albany Park. Partner Thomas Oh admits there is some overlapping between his River West restaurant — they’re “honoring and showcasing” a few traditional items. Oh and Lim see this as a Korean-infused spin on Gold Coast steakhouses like Morton’s or Gibsons.

    Oh senses America has an appetite “for something new and exciting.” Places like Cote in New York have proven that, and Bonyeon in West Loop — while not 100 percent Korean — showcases plenty of aspects of a Korean steakhouse. Oh is eager to see folks walk away blown away after their first bite of marinated meat or exploring the various permutations that can enjoy their meal using different sauces and ssam. A prix-fixe menu is on its way, too.

    Still, steaks can be finished with au poivre, bone marrow butter, or bordelaise sauces. Grilled mushrooms and broccolini would fit in at those iconic steakhouses. But there’s also a tteokbokki (Korean rice cake) cooked in the style of cacio e pepe. Kimchi fried rice is made with guanciale. Look for a mac and cheese with a little bit of heat and smoked cheddar. Lim calls those items “playful and exciting.” And they complement a la carte chops, including a 60-day dry-aged ribeye or a 30-ounce A5 Miyazaki New York strip. Of course, diners could pick a steakhouse set that includes a variety of meats served with banchan. They’re also swapping out traditional blinis with Korean crepes to be served with caviar.

    The noodles will be made in the kitchen, which is a rarity at Korean restaurants in Chicago. While Parachute, the lauded Michelin-starred Korean restaurant, searches for a new home, fans who miss the restaurant’s monkey bread may find solace in Perilla’s version.

    “We are very much Korean as much as we are American,” Lim says. “I think you know, our upbringing, we were exposed to, ironically, a lot of Italian dishes growing up — just because my dad really loved pasta. I’ve always grown up eating noodles, spaghetti, and things like that at home, and it’s just something I’ve always loved.”

    The restaurant will also be open in the morning and afternoon, serving hotel guests, tourists, and office workers: “I live down here. I live downtown, and finding breakfast and lunch in some of these areas can be quite a challenge,” Oh says.

    There are both traditional American options, like pancakes, omelets, and breakfast sandwiches. A Korean option includes rice, soup, white kimchi, and omelet and a choice of skirt steak, chicken thigh, grilled mackerel, or roasted veggies.

    The space was designed in conjunction with AvroKo, and Oh says observant customers will spot plenty of nods to traditional Korean architecture. Oh and Lim are again partnering with Alvin Kang, their collaborator at their River West restaurant. The biggest party involved is Lotte and the company is a household name in the Korean community.

    “It was an immense amount of pressure, not just for how our excitement at being able to expand this brand and what we’re doing here in Chicago, but the fact that it was for a company of this magnitude,” Oh says, adding how excited they are to bridge South Korea with Chicago: “This is something that we’re incredibly passionate about.”

    Check out the breakfast, lunch, dinner, and brunch menus in the links, and look at the photos below.

    Perilla Korean American Steakhouse, inside the L7 Chicago Hotel, 225 N. Wabash, opening Wednesday, July 3, reservations available via OpenTable.

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    Ashok Selvam

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