The innovative leader introduces a versatile addition to its handicraft machine lineup, which will be on sale with a great offer of 20% off on 14th August.
SACRAMENTO, Calif., August 14, 2024 (Newswire.com)
– HTVRONT, a renowned provider of better-valued and intelligent crafting accessories and machines, proudly debuts its first-ever multifunctional innovation in a compact size, HTVRONT Mini Heat Press 3. As the globally groundbreaking heat press machine with dual plates, the HTVRONT Mini Heat Press 3 will be at an early-bird price of $36.79, 20% off its listed price ($45.99), on Aug.14, celebrating a further convenient and efficient era for crafters worldwide.
According to Tim Lei, HTVRONT’s Product Director, “User-centric convenience tapping into intelligence and high-tech faces an increase of demand since creative activities have gone viral among our daily lives these years. Without rapidly developing devices of high practicality and efficiency, there will always be stagnation of handicraft progress and barriers to DIY entry. And that’s why we keep listening to people’s true needs, remain steadfast to realize their expectations, and now introduce our first 2-in-1 mini heat press for every beginner and experienced artist.”
The highlight of HTVRONT Mini Heat Press 3 is the uniquely shaped “Flat-to-Curve” heat plate, which helps merge ironing demands for different surfaces with one tiny and sleek body. Including the first two generations’ precision tip design, this new arrival is capable of easily squeezing between lines and seams while adding extra garnishes on curves, from between shirt buttons and shoe uppers to hats, stuffed animals, and various mugs.
While wide application is extremely important to stress the value of a mini machine, intuitive and foolproof monitor settings are also a priority feature for innovative players. Leveraging a straightforward digital screen and flexible set buttons, hobby craft enthusiasts and startup home businesses can craft dozens of heat transfer projects with confidence.
HTVRONT Mini Heat Press 3 reduces the financial and time costs spent on multiple heat presses with different surfaces and functions during vast creative activities. To engage in as many crafting scenarios as possible, this portable device comes with the biggest 9.3 x 8.0 cm heat plate in the HTVRONT mini heat press portfolio. While dealing with the most common usage of fabric, HTVRONT Mini Heat Press 3 enables a bigger design in less time.
“As a brand committed to empowering crafters with more assured items, high security, and simplified user experience are the things we keep looking for. This time, not only do we improve the attached safety base with a more heat-resistant material, but we also set a thoughtful trick on it tailored to support different cups in sublimation. These details are our secret to back up,” said Frank Zhang, the CMO of HTVRONT.
When I first started researching getting a hot tub, I was quickly overwhelmed. What do you put under a hot tub? How do you move it? Do you really need all those chemicals? Here’s what I learned along the way and how I made a natural hot tub using second-hand materials.
If you read The Regenerative Garden, you know I have a whole chapter dedicated to the ethics of reducing waste and energy. So, it may come as a surprise that one of the first projects I worked on for my new garden was a hot tub!
With all the energy and chemicals a hot tub requires, I hesitated with the choice. But I knew it would be a game changer for me for me as someone who struggles with chronic pain.
I considered a wood-fired hot tub. As beautiful as they look, it’s not a practical solution for me to use daily to help with the pain associated with my disability.
Instead, I found an older hot tub that needs some TLC but works really well. I’m excited to show you how I installed my hot tub, renovated it, and changed things up to make it as eco-friendly as possible.
Here’s what I’ll be covering today…
I decorated my hot tub wall with shelves complete with houseplants.
The Hot Tub Before
I got my hot tub second-hand off of Facebook Marketplace. It included not only the hot tub, but also the surrounding privacy gazebo and an outdoor shower. The previous owner was a man who worked in the film industry as a carpenter, so everything was made from recycled materials, which I assume came from the leftovers from set.
Moving a hot tub wasn’t easy. I paid specialty movers to move it from his house to mine, which ended up costing just as much as the hot tub itself.
I moved everything to my place, and now I am repurposing and rebuilding instead of sending all these materials to the landfill.
The best part is that I had instant privacy and a backdrop. Since then, I’ve made some upgrades and repairs and added my own touch.
The finished patio and hot tub.
Step 1: The Hot Tub Base
My first task was to prepare the base before the hot tub arrived. Previously, the area had an old shed that I removed and recycled.
I dug into the soil, making it as even as possible. I set down a layer of landscape fabric and then a layer of crush gravel about 3 inches deep. This will provide some drainage for any water that splashes out.
On top of the crush layer, I added some 2 ft. x 2 ft. cement paving slabs that I bought at the hardware store.
I considered pouring concrete, but I wanted to ensure there was drainage, and the paving stones would provide a really stable base.
Step 2: The Privacy Wall
Next to the base, I set up some concrete footers that would hold the privacy wall posts. Rather than dig a footer into the ground, I bought these holders that can fit a 4×4 post right in it. This means the screen isn’t set directly in the ground and can be moved if I wish.
The posts are pressure treated lumber and the walls are cedar, treated with Shou Sugi Ban. This is a Japanese wood burning technique where the wood isn’t stained but burned and then coated with a natural oil.
This helps to preserve the wood, making it resistant to sunlight and water. If you touch it, you can get the char on your hands, but it really creates a beautiful charcoal finish that highlights the wood grain.
The roof is open above the hot tub and has decorative beams, which are also pressure-treated and recycled.
Here, you can see the beautiful charring of the Shou Sugi Ban.
Step 3: Insulating the Hot Tub
Since my hot tub is second-hand, I had to do some work on the insulation inside the panels. Once I opened the panels, I noticed lots of animal damage. Critters had gone inside to nest and nibble.
We removed any old, bad insulation and replaced it with hard foam. This spray foam is resistant to mice, rats, and other rodents who might sneak in. When you spray it, it expands and hardens and should be long-lasting.
Overall, this will improve the hot tub’s energy efficiency, allowing it to retain heat better and use fewer resources.
After insulating, I put the panels back on, and it looks as good as new.
Step 4: Finding the Right Electrical
When looking for an eco-friendly hot tub, I had to ask what power source I would need. I could go with a 110V or a 220 V hot tub.
110V hot tubs are considered plug-and-play. They don’t require any kind of special outlet. They tend to be lighter hot tubs and can have both jets and heat…but you can’t use them at the same time. You still need to ensure there is enough power for this kind of hot tub and that it has its own breaker.
220V hot tubs are heavier to move and require special hot tub movers. 220V requires a special outlet, which fridges, ovens, and washing machines also use. They’re more efficient in the long run, despite their initial challenges.
I had an electrician come over and install a special outlet for my hot tub. With a 220V, I don’t have to worry about putting everything at max power to do everything.
I will say that I did have to move my hot tub later after the movers had come and gone, and it took three people to move it 90 degrees. It was really difficult, and we ended up prying it up with a piece of wood and putting metal bars underneath to swing it into position.
The hot tub I ended up purchasing secondhand was a 220V.
Step 5: Outdoor Shower
When I bought the outdoor shower, it also came with an outdoor shower. I put this beside the hot tub, adding a French drain underneath and digging down so it could properly drain.
It is a propane shower, and it was all built into what I had purchased. Unfortunately, the pipe had burst and I needed new pipes to make the shower work at my house.
I’m going to make an entire post about my outdoor shower, but let me just say, I use it ALL the time. I’ve already gone an entire week not using my shower inside since I’m using my outdoor shower so much.
Step 6: Hot Tub Cover
The hot tub cover that came with the hot tub was no longer good. Which is to be expected! They last for around five years.
Mine was filled with water, so I recycled it and got a new one.
I also put in a bar lifter. It allows me to fold half and then use the bar to lift the cover onto the bench I have behind the hot tub. This makes it super easy to lift and use even when I’m in pain and my mobility is restricted.
The patio looks especially lovely during dusk.
Step 7: The Chemical Dilemma
As I mentioned, I was a little hesitant about the chemicals I would need to use for my natural hot tub. So, I did a lot of research before deciding what to do with my hot tub.
I’ll start off by saying that I am not an expert, and this is just what has worked for me. I have not had my water tested.
I use very little chemicals for my natural hot tub. I start off by filling my hot tub with an RV water filter attached to the hose. I fill it over the hot tub filter, so there are no heavy metals in my hot tub water. The cleaner the water that goes in, the better.
I clean my hot tub filter very often. To do this, I just remove it and hose it down. You also should replace your hot tub filter every year.
I also do my best to prevent any additional bacteria from getting in. Every time someone comes into the hot tub, they use the outdoor shower. I also shock it after people who don’t belong to my household have been in it.
Hot Tub Chemical Alternatives
For my bacteria cleaner, I opted for bromine instead of chlorine. Here are some other non-chlorine hot tub options I considered but didn’t go with:
Salt water also sounded good, but they were quite expensive. I also found that the salt turns into chlorine in the water anyway so it would do the same thing as just putting in chlorine.
Ionizers neutralize the bacteria and sterilize it, but they also add more heavy metals to the water. These metals can be absorbed through the skin and can also affect other parts of the hot tub.
UV lighting can sterilize the bacteria in the plumbing so it can’t grow. However, you still need some chlorine or bromine to get rid of the pathogenic bacteria that still exists. I might install this down the road, but right now, I’m doing okay!
I also need to increase the pH of the water. To do this, I sprinkle in baking soda. This is exactly what I do with my bath bombs when I have a bath!
Overall, that’s all I have added to my water: bromine and baking soda. By showering and cleaning the filter often, my water is crystal clear and beautiful.
The whole process has reminded me of soap making, and I approach it with the same process. I ask myself, how can I make it as natural as possible, test it out, and see how my skin reacts.
After using the hot tub, I sit for a bit on my sectional with a towel and water-resistant blanket.
The Benefits of My Natural Hot Tub
A little while back, I hurt my back. To help alleviate the pain, I soaked in my hot tub twice a day. It was precisely why I wanted to include a hot tub in my backyard design, as I knew I would need to rely on it during times like these.
While I initially struggled with the idea of the hot tub due to its energy and chemical requirements, I’ve already proven to myself how great of a choice it has been, especially since it’s second-hand and gets so much use.
The pain relief is giving me back my life, so it’s worth every penny for someone with chronic pain.
My dermatologist said it was bad for my skin and my rosacea, but I said I don’t care since I’ve seen such an improvement in my pain and mobility.
Not long ago, I got sick. I did circuits in the hot tub, spending 15 minutes in the heat, then an ice-cold shower, followed by ten minutes of rest. Then, I would repeat it, doing it a total of three times.
Afterward, I felt like a million bucks. Yes, I was still showing sick symptoms, but I could still go about my day this way.
Hot Tub Water Usage
My other concern was the water usage. Yes, this is a 1,000-litre hot tub and it does consume quite a bit of water.
But in the end, I’m actually reducing my water usage. Normally, I will take baths to combat my chronic pain. With the average bath consuming about 94.6 litres, it would take me 11 dips in the hot tub to already be saving water.
And considering I go in every day, sometimes twice a day, it’s making a big difference!
My Natural Hot Tub Today
As you can see, I’ve made my natural hot tub one of the most relaxing spaces in my home. The walls give me all the privacy I need, and I’ve decorated them with shelves to feel extra homey.
I added in some fun lights for ambience, which are all controlled with a remote. I love using all kinds of colours at night, and it instantly sets the mood.
Next to my hot tub is my patio, which you can see more of here. All together, I have one large entertaining space, and I can easily lounge and cool off when I’m done in the hot tub.
Private, relaxing, and functional! The perfect backyard space.
I’m just at the start of my eco-friendly hot tub journey, and I’m always trying to improve and tweak as I go. If you have any ideas or suggestions for me, leave them in the comments below!
Hanging a lavender wreath around the garden could be just the aromatherapy needed to help decompress after a long day, or perhaps it will just make you smile. Regardless, this lavender wreath is a quick weekend project that will leave you calm enough for an afternoon read or a good night’s sleep.
In order to keep your lavender plants neat and tidy, it’s important to prune them. Two prunes per season works best—once at the beginning of summer and then once again in August.
The great thing about pruning back your lavender plants is that you can harvest lavender to use in a myriad of ways! One of my faves is to make it into pretty, fragrant wreaths. The fresh flowers dry on the wreath, and it looks so decorative.
This year, I made a miniature 6″ wreath using “Thumbelina Leigh” English Lavender plants, which are planted in my kitchen garden. The plants are quite small, but they produce more than enough flowers to keep me in lavender all summer long (and then some).
Here’s what you need to know about making your own dried lavender wreath!
One mature lavender plant should be enough to make one small 6-inch wreath.
Harvesting Lavender for Your Wreath
When harvesting lavender, it’s best to pick it at the budding stage, after the flower bugs turn purple but before they open into flowers. The stems will hold the colour for the longest if they are harvested in the bud.
The image below shows the three stages of lavender flowers: budding, flowering, and after flowering. In reality, I try and cut the flowers when they are budding, but in practice, I usually get a mixture of buds and flowers, and a few early bloomers that are starting to die back.
It’s hard to perfect the timing, but it’s even harder to take all that lovely lavender away from the bees! I like to let my lavender flower a bit for the bees to enjoy and then add it to a wreath when it has some buds and some open flowers.
It looks lovely and gives me (and the pollinators) more time to relish it in the garden. The open flowers will eventually fall off, but what’s left behind is still attractive and aromatic.
If you are crafting with lavender at home for personal use, don’t worry too much. Leave that to the lavender farms. No matter when you harvest it, it will make a lovely wreath with a heavenly perfume.
The lavender on the left is at budding stage, the middle blooming, and the right is after blooming.
How to Make a Lavender Wreath
The process for making this lavender wreath is very similar to my other wreaths. Perhaps even simpler because it’s entirely one kind of flower!
Materials
I used a grapevine wreath base, but you can also use a wire or straw base as well.
Make It!
Gather lavender into small bunches and snip the ends to get a nice, neat edge.
I left the leaves on, but you can strip them for a neater look.
Wrap your wire or twine around the stems of one bunch several times tightly.
Secure your bundles individually before attaching them to the wreath form.
Secure the bunch to the form by winding the twine or wire around it a few times and pulling tight (or tying a knot if you’re using twine).
Pro tip: I personally prefer to use wire rather than twine, as it is easier to tighten it later once the lavender bunches have dried and shrunk down a bit. To tighten a dried wreath made with wire, use needle-nose pliers to twist knots in the wire at the back of the wreath and hold the stems in snugly.
Keep your wire on the roll as you attach your bundles to the wreath form.
Leaving the wire on the roll, wind each new bunch onto the form as they are added. Continue adding bunches until you complete the circle.
Alternate which directions your bundles face to get a fuller-looking wreath.
Tuck a final bunch under the first bunch, then cut and secure the wire. Hang the wreath up and enjoy!
While it’s drying, flowers will fall off but NOT the buds.
I’ve also made a dried lavender wreath using this same basic technique on a wire coat hanger bent into a circle for the wreath form.
Make your own wire wreath form out of an old wire coat hanger.
Here is how that looks with dried buds after many years! It will hold its colour for quite a while. As you can see, this one has seen a few seasons and still looks beautiful.
FAQ About Lavender Wreaths
What is the most fragrant lavender?
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is typically revered for its scent, as well as hybrids.
What is the best way to dry lavender?
For this lavender wreath, I recommend using fresh lavender and letting it dry directly on the wreath form. When you work with dried lavender, it will be more brittle and you’re more likely to lose buds while you make the wreath.
The smell of your dried lavender wreath should last you for a few months. If you squeeze the buds, you should release the oils that contain the fragrance.
Commercially grown lavender is dried upside down in large bunches.
If you are a fan of handy food tips, you may also love these tips on Baking Cookies! These are wonderful for the holiday season when you are making lots of goodies for your friends and family.
❤️WHY WE LOVE THIS RECIPE
We cook a lot with brown sugar, and there have been occasions when we ran out and needed a quick substitute. This homemade brown sugar will work in a pinch and it’s always nice to know you can make this up! It keeps well too!
This is also a great food tip if you enjoy just making your own and knowing what is in your food. Reading food labels can be eye opening and if you want just two simple ingredients this is a fantastic way to accomplish just that!
🍴KEY INGREDIENTS
White Granulated Sugar
Molasses
Yep, those are the only two ingredients you need to make a brown sugar substitute! We always have molasses on hand, so if you don’t, this won’t be that handy, but we cook with molasses quite a bit.
🍽️HOW TO MAKE
This recipe is for light brown sugar and if you need dark brown sugar you can change the ratio to 2 tablespoons to one cup.
FAVORITE RECIPES WITH BROWN SUGAR AND MOLASSES
Molasses Cookies – These cookies are made with both brown sugar and molasses and they are always a hit!
Brown Sugar Pie – This old fashioned recipe is one your family will love. It comes together really quickly and it’s always a hit.
Brown Sugar Meatloaf – This is one of our most popular recipes for a reason! It’s so good and your family will love it.
Brown Sugar Banana Bars – These are made in a snack size pan and super simple! Great addition to any gathering.
Making your own all-natural foaming hand soap costs a fraction of store-bought options, takes mere seconds to make, is healthy for your skin, and you can customize the scent to be whatever you choose. All that should be enough to get you excited, but making your own dispenser also reduces unnecessary waste! In this post, I’m going to show you how to make an easy foaming soap dispenser and give you my favourite recipe for a luxurious and eco-friendly foaming soap.
If you follow along on Garden Therapy you know that I scrapped the store-bought beauty products and make all of my own natural skincare products.
Somehow along the way, I became addicted to foaming hand soap. At first, I thought that I was cheating on my homemade soap bars. All-natural homemade soap is so much better for my skin than store-bought liquid soap. But the foam. Oh, the foam. It’s so luxurious!
This post will cover…
I made my own dispenser out of a Mason Jar.
How to Make a Foaming Soap Dispenser
I set upon the task to make a homemade foaming hand soap recipe and came up with some fun and foamy soap that I’m proud to wash with.
Of course, I needed a stylish container and pump that I could refill, so I made one from a Mason jar and a foam soap pump from a disposable bottle.
I’ve shared how to make one today so you can reduce the waste of buying disposable foam soap dispensers by replacing them with a reusable DIY version.
First, I’ll show you how to make the Mason jar foaming soap dispenser, and then I’ll share my basic foaming hand soap recipe.
There are a number of options for a permanent foaming soap dispenser. You could certainly just buy one, as there are some pretty nice ones out there on Amazon like this one, this one, and these ones. You could also just refill the disposable foam soap bottle with my foam soap recipe below.
Or you can make one inexpensively using an attractive mason jar and the pump from the disposable ones.
That’s what I did. Here’s how you can, too.
Materials
Any plastic foaming dispenser should work for this project.
Make it!
First, look for a disposable foaming hand soap bottle. I chose a Method one because I liked the look of it. You only need the nozzle and foaming mechanism, so remove that from the bottle.
Next, cut a hole in the middle of the snap lid to fit the soap pump into. The easiest way to do this is to use a hammer and nail to pierce a few holes in the center of the snap lid. Then, squeeze the metal snips in to cut out a hole.
Your circle doesn’t need to be perfect. It will be covered by the pump.
Cut the hole large enough that the thinner bottom part of the pump fits into the hole, but small enough that the top of the pump sits above it.
Trim the straw length is necessary.
Insert the pump into the snap lid, top the Mason jar, and twist on the ring to see how it fits. Trim the length of the straw to fit if necessary.
I didn’t need to glue down my dispenser, it fit just right.
How to Make Foam Soap
Make your own foaming hand soap by using this recipe:
60% water
20% prepared liquid soap*
20% air
*I use this liquid castile soap, which comes concentrated and needs to be diluted. I prepare the castile soap according to the instructions on the package and use that for my 20%. If you like it a bit more creamy, use a bit less water. You can replace 5% of the water with more soap.
If you are using unscented castile soap, add 5-6 drops of essential oils to the recipe for a personalized scent. I like these scents in my DIY foaming hand soap:
I have also made this recipe with herbal tea. As it has botanical elements, it doesn’t last as long. Make it in small batches and it’s a wonderful way to change up and infuse your foam soap.
You can also think of it as 3 parts water, 1 part air, and 1 part soap.
FAQs About Foaming Hand Soap
How does the pump work?
The pump is made of two parts, one for soap and one for air. It injects air into the soap when it goes through the pump, making it lather.
What are the benefits of foaming soap?
I wrote at the beginning that making your own foaming soap is both less expensive and less wasteful than buying pre-made foaming hand soap. It’s very easy to make as you simply dilute liquid soap and water at the appropriate ratio. You can also reduce waste by refilling a container as opposed to buying a new one each time.
Finally, if you use natural Castile (olive oil) soap as the basis of the recipe, it’s very gentle on the skin and all-natural.
Will regular soap work in the foaming dispenser?
No, regular soap is too thick for a foaming dispenser, you need to reduce the viscosity by diluting it in water.
Is foaming soap less effective than regular soap?
Yes, if not used properly. Dirt and germs are removed from skin in the process of lathering up with soap so if that lathering is already done for you, it can be less effective at cleaning to use foaming soap.
That being said, proper hand washing is the variable. If you apply any soap and lather for 20 seconds, rinse well, dry your hands, and then apply hand cream, you will have clean, soft, well-cared-for hands no matter which soap format you choose.
Do you need to add a preservative?
Despite adding water, I don’t add any preservatives. When I make my soap, I do a small batch that lasts me about a month or so, but I’ve had it last over six months.
It’s important that when you’re making it, you ensure that the container and all the tools used have been sterilized so that you’re not inviting any additional bacteria into the container once it’s sealed off.
Do the Mason jar lids rust after being cut?
They do. When I refill the soap, I just wash off the rust with a nail brush. I need to sterilize the container to prevent bacteria anyway before the next batch, so it’s not a big deal.
If the rust bothers you, you can also seal it with spray paint.
More Soap Recipes to Try
If you are also interested in bar soap, check out these recipes:
Foaming Hand Soap
How to make all-natural foaming hand soap with Castile (olive oil) soap
60%water
20%prepared Castile soap
20% air
5-6dropsessential oil
Prepare a clean jar with a foam soap pump. Measure out the percentages of the space inside the jar to determine amounts.
Fill the jar 60% of the way with water.
Prepare Castile soap according to the instructions on the package – it comes undiluted so this prepared soap mixture is what you use to fill up 20% of the jar. If you like it a bit more creamy, replace 5% of the water with more soap.
Leave the top 20% for air.
Add essential oils of your choice.
Add the soap pump and shake to combine.
Shake regularly to ensure the essential oils are dispersed before using.
There are two main reasons that you might consider planting a pollinator garden in pots instead of in the ground: Either you don’t have a garden bed—or you’ve run out of space to plant anything more in your garden. In either scenario, a container garden can support pollinators just as well as an in-ground garden. Even if you aren’t dealing with space constraints, you might consider adding some pollinator pots, says Alicia Whitaker, a master gardener and a co-leader for the Suffolk Alliance for Pollinators’s South Fork chapter. “If they’re near an outdoor seating area, the gardener can see and enjoy the wildlife that will be attracted.” Plus, she notes: Containers are also a great option if the gardener has a mobility issue or other handicap that makes gardening in the ground difficult.
Above: A bumble bee nectaring on goldenrod. Photograph by Kim Eierman.
Here, nine tips on how to garden for pollinators in pots:
1. Be prepared to water often.
The most common mistake with any container garden is underwatering. “The soil in pots dries out faster, especially in a very sunny and hot environment, such as a windy deck or brick patio surface,” says Whitaker, who notes that people often underestimate the water needs of container plants because they are accustomed to worrying about overwatering indoor houseplants.
2. Go big.
Above: Susan Nock, a Boston-based garden designer with a specialty in container gardens, filled a large pot with tall grass, agastache, foxglove, daisies, scabiosa, verbena, angelonia, and sweet potato vine for a dynamic, pollinator-friendly design. Photograph by Susan Nock.
Garden pros recommend choosing the largest container possible. “A higher volume of soil will dry out less quickly,” explains Whitaker. But there’s another reason to go big: The more plants you cram into a pot, the better the chances the pollinators will find them. “When we use large pots or gang pots together in groups, we create some floral targets for pollinators,” says ecological horticulturist Kim Eierman, the author of The Pollinator Victory Garden and founder of EcoBeneficia. “That’s really important. Having a larger target makes it much easier for the pollinator to find the resource.” If you’re worried about weight, you can use a false bottom planter.
3. Amend the soil.
Both Whitaker and Eierman suggest mixing compost into the container’s soil, to nourish the plants and encourage root growth. “I apply a limited amount of compost a couple times a year to beef up the soil biology because there’s no interchange with any other soil,” adds Eierman. “I just put it on top and let rain do its thing.” Whitaker adds, “We often hear that native perennials prefer leaner soil and don’t require fertilizer, but the artificial environment of a container calls for better soil and the regular use of organic fertilizer.”
4. Consistency + variety is key.
Just like humans, pollinators need a diverse diet, but that doesn’t mean you need to run out and buy dozens of different plants. Eierman says to aim for a balance between diversity and sufficiency of given plants. So, rather than having many tiny plants of a wide variety of species, focus on a few types. “It’s better to have a more substantial amount of that one species,” says Eierman. Whitaker adds, “Think drifts, not polka dots.” When pollinators forage they’re looking for that one plant species, so a repetition of bloom from container to container can attract them without having one massive target, Eierman notes.
5. Give the bugs color cues.
Above: This composition of ‘Giga Blue’ pincushion flower, ‘VIBE Ignition’ purple salvia, and S’unSparkler Firecracker’ sedum by Monrovia demonstrates how you can do a monochromatic pollinator design using one color but different plants. Photograph via Monrovia.
“We know that pollinators have their color preferences,” says Whitaker. Hummingbirds are attracted to red flowers, while many bees love purples and yellows. Butterflies are drawn to a wide range of colors, but moths are attracted to white blossoms. “it’s good to have a variety of colors, and a variety of shapes,” says Whitaker, noting, “There are almost no wrong choices.”
Learn the intricacies of modern electronics by assembling your very own DIY Digital Radio Kit. Ideal for hobbyists and do-it-yourselfers, this kit provides all the components necessary to build your very own digital radio. Learn basic electronic knowledge, circuit principles and soldering skills when you assemble your very own digital radio. The kit includes everything needed to fully assemble your digital radio.
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The leading creative high-tech company launched the newest HTVRONT Manual Heat Press on 28th June and will set the machine on pre-sale on 23rd July with an early-bird offer.
SACRAMENTO, Calif., July 12, 2024 (Newswire.com)
– HTVRONT, a well-known handicraft machine brand, announced its self-designed new manual heat press, exclusive to household scenarios and small businesses. It will be on pre-sale with a 15% discount perk on 23rd July. Developed in collaboration with higher security and convenience, the HTVRONT Manual Heat Press aims to tackle the traditional heat press machines’ most pressing challenges, including uneven and slow heating up, hard press-down, heat hovering above hands, shell with sharp corners, and more.
To address these challenges, the HTVRONT product team is turning to intelligent solutions that harness the power of heat distribution, stability, and safety. The Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) thermistor technology, along with the attached improved soleplate, is a crucial element of the household manual heat press machine, ensuring a fast and uniform heat emission. HTVRONT leverages such impressive heating combinations to accelerate the ironing process so as to optimize the efficiency of creative activities.
“Even with the long and hard challenge along the journey, we never consider compromising the quality and affordability and undermining our customers’ interests. All those unpredictable hardships can only serve as a stimulus to march us forward for better products with unrelenting work,” stated Amy, the product’s chief designer and chairman of HTVRONT, “And the newest device is built upon such a principle. With the added weight component for higher stability, a 180-degree rotatable plate, and an independent control pad for enhanced security, customers are expected to enjoy a more soothing and hassle-free DIY experience.”
In addition to improving security, the pad has proven its effectiveness in household and professional use, enabling real-time intelligible observations via the easy-to-adjust heat settings and intuitive digital screen. Such a comprehensive approach empowers crafters to proactively optimize the most suitable ironing temperature and time for diverse materials and substrates of different brands.
To facilitate certain pressure adjustments for masterful projects, the HTVRONT Manual Heat Press is born with a pressure regulator and press-down handle in a more modern and concise look compared to the existing industrial ones. This enables greater craft perfection and ensures safety under the improvement of round shell corner designs.
This machine, designed to cater to the needs of household and commercial massive production and convenience, is released at $189.99 on 23rd July on the official website with around 15% off and will be sold on Amazon on 8th August.
Mosquito repellent plants are garden heroes: colorful flowers and herbs with natural fragrances that chase away buzzing insects even as their perfumes soothe humans.
The first step in your plan to thwart mosquitoes? Grow plants such as lavender, basil, mint, scented geraniums, and marigolds. But unless you’re planning to plop your chair down in the middle of a flower bed, you may not enjoy the full protective benefits. So we came up with a plan to bring the full power of your anti-mosquito forces to the deck or patio: a mosquito repellent floral arrangement. (We placed ours on a side table next to our favorite reading chair.) Read on for step-by-step instructions.
Lavender’s strong scent, which comes from essential oils that can be distilled from its flowers, is often used for aromatherapy. While there is little scientific evidence to back up claims that lavender oil has health benefits, inhaling its fresh, herbal scent calms many people. But not mosquitoes.
Above: Florists at work.
I asked a couple of aspiring florists named Clementine and Eve to arrange the mosquito repellent plants and flowers in a few clear glass vases: a deconstructed floral arrangement. (If you don’t have vases of different heights and shapes on hand, you can just as easily arrange the flowers in mix-and-match drinking glasses or glass jars to get the same effect.).
Above: Jagged lavender (L. pinnata buchii) with feathery leaves and deeply purple flowers goes into a vase, roots and all.
Lately I’ve been hankering for a woodsy, off-the-grid, no-screens-allowed place to escape to—no text messages, no email, no Netflix, just a paperback and someplace to float. Which has me revisiting the cabin in New Hampshire’s Lakes Region that Alice Saunders and Greg Ralich found on Craigslist and fixed up, DIY style (and which we featured on Remodelista).
The cabin—which is about as rural as it gets, down the end of a class IV road—might not have running water or electricity, but it has simple summer pleasures: a hand-built dining nook/game table, a bright kitchen, a simple and sumptuous-looking bed, even an ad-hoc outdoor shower. It’s hands down the best-looking totally off-the-grid place we’ve seen (no surprise; Saunders is the founder and designer behind Forestbound Bag Co.). Our favorite detail? The couple needs to paddle out to the center of the pond just to get a hint of cell service. Unplugged weekends indeed.
Recently we spotted that the couple had taken on another DIY project at the cabin: a boardwalk. “While fairly simple, it might be my favorite project to date,” Saunders wrote on Instagram. “It feels like a small way to highlight and appreciate the beauty of our land. Plus Greg and I finished this in one afternoon and didn’t get in any fights along the way, a true win when working on home projects with your partner.”
Intrigued, we asked Saunders how this old-school, summer-camp-style boardwalk came together in just a few hours. Here’s the rundown.
Photography courtesy of Alice Saunders.
Above: The area before the boardwalk.
Watch and learn.
“Our goal was to build a very simple wooden boardwalk that wouldn’t take the focus away from the beauty of our land,” says Saunders. “We didn’t want something overbuilt and technical; we sought to make something that became part of the landscape and that, in time, it would just look like it was always there.
“It was especially important to watch how the land and water and light changed over the year and years before I felt confident building something in this exact spot. It’s definitely the focal point of the view from our porch, so I was nervous, but this year I was ready to take on the challenge.”
(Gently) create a path.
“Before starting the project, we prepped the area by transplanting any ferns and other plants that were in the area we planned to build on, leveled out the soil (or well, mud), and cut back a large stump that the boardwalk would hug on its slight curve,” says Saunders.
Makes 12 muffin-sized pies; 12 3¾-inch hand pies; or 1 large 9-inch pie (baked in a springform pan)
Summer is picnic-friendly, and having a serviceberry pie all to yourself feels special. So I’ll bake these little pies in muffin trays, to pack and carry. You’ll need a muffin tray with 12 slots, and two cookie cutters: 3¾-inch for the bases, and 2½ -inch for the lids. The recipe doubles very well, if you are baking for a crowd.
If you choose to bake a single, large pie, increase the quantity of fruit to 6 cups, with 3 teaspoons of cornstarch. Sugar says the same: ½ cup.
For the filling: In a bowl combine the serviceberries or other berries, the sugar, and the cornstarch. Toss together well.
For the pastry: Lightly butter the slots in your muffin tray.
In a mixing bowl, beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg. Beat again with a dusting of flour. Gradually beat in the rest of the flour, the baking powder, and salt. When the pastry is cohesive, divide it into two discs: one that contains 2/3’s of the pastry, one that is 1/3.
Dust flour onto your work surface and roll out your larger pastry disc thinly. Press out 12 pie bases using the 3 ¾-inch cutter. Loosen and lift each base with a dinner knife or a long spatula, and gently press it into the buttered muffin tray. Patch any tears with a pinch of extra pastry. Transfer the tray to the fridge while you roll out the second disc. Press out your lids using the smaller disc.
To assemble: Remove the tray from the fridge and spoon the fruit filling into each pie base – about 2 tablespoonfuls each. Place the pie lids on top of the filling and press down lightly (no need to crimp) and return to the fridge for 10 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Remove the chilled pies from the fridge. Pierce a steam vent in the top of each with the tip of a sharp knife. Brush each pie with a little milk or cream. Bake for 20 minutes, until the pastry is turning golden and the pies are oozing red juices. Remove the tray to a cooling rack and allow to cool for 5 minutes (they become less fragile as they cool) before loosening each serviceberry pie in its slot by running a knife around the edges, gently. Carefully lift each pie from its slot, and transfer to a second cooling rack.
If you live in a place blessed with an abundance of lilac (perhaps outside your front door, or in the fields and hedgerows of New England where it has naturalized rampantly), gather a basketful and take it home to submerge in honey. Steeping lilac flowers for two days yields an evocative lilac honey that carries the scent of late spring and early summer far beyond those seasons’ borders. Drizzle it over toast for breakfast, into hot black tea, or onto your favorite triple cream brie. A sparing trickle of lilac honey across a fresh carrot salad, or over the surface of a piping hot pizza littered with fresh, peppery green arugula and tenderly melted mozzarella, are three-second flourishes that will create story-worthy meals.
Above: Lilac honey with brie and fresh lilac flowers. Above: Naturalized lilac in Maine.
There are many species of lilac; the shrub referenced in this story is Syringa vulgaris, which is native to Eastern Europe. It is one of the earliest colonial horticultural introductions to the United States. While it is hard to hate such a beautiful and storied shrub, lilac is now invasive in several US states, including Maine and much of New England. Canada, too, classifies it as “highly invasive” and Germany has blacklisted the species, which has escaped into the wild in Central and Western Europe.
Above: Lilac in a clonal thicket in Maine (the low shrubs at my feet are mown offspring of the central shrubs). Photograph by Vincent Mounier.
Collect lilac flowers at any time of day except when the shrubs are wet. Rain and dew tend to strip the flowers temporarily of nectar and perfume, and perfume is what you are looking to capture in an infused honey. If in doubt, push your face into a cluster of flowers and inhale.
Above: Lilac stems that are cut seem to wilt faster than stems that are torn, or broken, when gathered.
While snipping politely with secateurs is usually best practice when harvesting flowers on woody stems, I find that lilac flowers last much longer in water when their stems are snapped from the main stems; this may be because the torn surface absorbs more water in a vase or bowl than a narrower, cut area. Also, if you re-cut those stems at home, the flowers are more likely to wilt quickly. It’s taken me many farmers’ market bunches, and many sad wilts, to work this out. So judge the stem-length well in the field, or in your garden, and collect accordingly.
Once home, submerge the stems up to their necks (just below where the flower panciles begin) in cool water.
Above: Clusters of heavily scented lilac up to their necks in water.
In water, lilacs should keep fresh for at least three days, so you have some wiggle room in terms of planning your honey infusion. (Remember not to re-cut the stems after collecting them.)
I’m living proof that you don’t necessarily need handyman skills to save money on a home renovation. Here are some strategies anyone can use, with recommendations from general contractor Vince Spitale of Kitchen and Bath Guys in Toronto.
Ask your contractor which tasks you can take on to cut costs
If you’re willing to take on some logistical work or even general labour, your contractor can give you a to-do list that will help save money. Spitale says some clients are comfortable doing their own demolition—taking down old cabinets, for example—which saves his crew time and reduces costs. There are other simple tasks you can take on too, like prepping a work site by laying down drop sheets to protect floors. “Remember, if you are not doing this, someone else is—and that translates into dollars.”
Even if you lack skills, there may still be jobs your family can handle themselves with clear instruction from a professional. Ask your contractor what you can take on yourself and what the savings will be; you may be pleasantly surprised. “On one occasion, we had to remove hardwood floors on the entire main floor of a house,” Spitale says, noting that pulling up boards, nails and staples can take hours. He suggested that the client spend a day tackling this job to cut costs. “He got a good set of knee pads and pliers and his two teenage sons, and they got to work!”
Keep lines of communication open with your contractor—especially about your budget
Communication is a huge part of staying on budget, so make sure you hire a contractor who is reliable, communicative and budget-conscious. Besides interviewing them beforehand, look at customer feedback on HomeStars or Google reviews to determine if they’re reputable. “You want to make sure your contractor has a good understanding of where you need to be with spending,” Spitale says. “They should be able to anticipate any potential issues that could push the project over budget and, more importantly, explain them to you before the job starts.”
Once you find a good communicator, talk over your plan together. According to Spitale, overlooking necessary steps, materials and timing is what often causes renovation projects to go over budget. To avoid creeping renovation costs, make sure you understand what’s required from you at every stage of your project. Have your contractor provide you with a list of materials needed in each stage of the renovation, allowing you to get one step ahead. When materials are on-site and ready to go, it keeps the renovation moving along quickly and prevents costly delays. “If you are able to facilitate a lot of the legwork involved in a project, this can present significant savings,” Spitale says.
Be realistic with your budget, saving where you can but investing where it counts
Home owners should be realistic about what “on budget” really means to them. According to Spitale, if you’re within 10% of your original target, you’re in decent shape. Essentially, if you planned to spend $10,000 and your project comes in at $9,000 or $11,000, consider yourself on track.
Just like any other product, home renovation supplies are available at a wide variety of price points. When choosing materials like kitchen cabinets, tile, lighting or flooring, consider buying well-reviewed products from big-box stores instead of opting for more expensive custom or brand-name options. You don’t want to buy low-quality materials, but there are many well-made generic products that allow you to achieve a high-end look and durability for less. The same line of thinking applies to things like kitchen cabinetry, as you can cut the cost nearly in half if you opt for prefab over custom. As always, talk to your contractor, as they may be able to recommend specific products that meet your needs while allowing you to save money.
And remember that there’s always the opportunity to tweak your space down the road. You may want a high-end chef’s range, but if it’s out of budget, consider a more affordable option and remember that you can always upgrade it later.
I garden in pots on my front porch, and by the time summer arrives, I just want my containers to look good…and I don’t want to spend a lot of time on them. So I always create at least one lushly planted pot filled with low-care plants, since that’s all you need to keep a small space looking gorgeous for the season.
Photography by Julie Chai for Gardenista.
Above: I like to garden in larger pots–at least 14 inches or more in diameter–and I usually use a container I already own. I replant my containers as the seasons change.
Above: When I’m shopping at the nursery, I like to know my container’s size. But I’m not about to lug heavy pottery with me, so I came up with an easy way to measure: take a large piece of scrap paper (newspaper or a paper bag work well), place it over the pot, and cut out a circle that’s about the same size as the container’s opening.
Then, I take my paper disc with me to the nursery so I can arrange plants on it while I shop. This helps me estimate how many plants will actually fit in my pot without overcrowding, and also gives me a chance to play around with the plant arrangement.
Above: For summer, a simple color combination of cool blue, white, and silver balances the heat. This month’s container is a mix of four hardy summer workhorses:
‘Blue Bird’ Nemesia. It’s is an upright plant that grows to a height of 12 inches and blooms until frost.
‘Gulliver White’ Bacopa has pure white flowers on trailing stems–perfect for the front of a container.
Lamb’s ears have large, fuzzy gray-green leaves. It’s technically a ground cover–so it will eventually spread and you’ll need to reduce the clump or replant in another pot. It also forms lavender flower spikes (bees love them, but you can cut them down if you don’t like the way they look).
‘Glacier Blue’ Euphorbia. It can reach 18 inches tall, and has thin, silvery leaves edged in white along with blooms in late winter or spring.
Above: I generally aim for five or fewer types of plants in a pot because I like to let each plant stand out. When creating combos, it’s important to mix growers that have the same water and light needs so that everything will thrive–this grouping likes full to part sun, and regular water.
Above: I always use a container with a drainage hole, and before planting I gently loosen any matted roots. It’s best to fill your pots with fresh potting soil because it drains well and is packed with the nutrients your plants need.
Above: Water thoroughly after planting, and then again whenever the top inch or so of soil feels dry.
Above: You can also feed your plants with a liquid organic fertilizer (just follow the instructions on whatever product you buy) to keep everything happy from now into fall.
N.B.: This post is an update; it was first published June 2013.
So you’re finally ready to plant up an area of your garden. How do you ensure you’re giving your plants the best possible start? In part 5 of my series on making A Garden from Scratch (scroll to the bottom for the other installments), I look at one border in my own garden and explain how I prepared it and put it together.
1. Get the timing right.
Above: What I started with. This was a tired lavender walk that needed a lot of plants replaced and was interspersed with climbing roses. I wanted a more substantial border as this was also a key view through the garden, so I removed everything except for the established ‘Blush Noisette’ rose on the right-hand side of the border.
Autumn and spring are perfect times to get a border planted, giving plants a chance to settle and send out roots when soil is likely to be warm and moist. Because I am nearly always running behind, the new border here would eventually go into the ground in early May. It’s not ideal timing as they need a lot more attention and irrigation if there is prolonged hot weather, but in reality it’s feasible to plant perennials at any time the ground is not frozen—just be prepared to keep an eye on them in summer.
Make sure you have all your plants gathered, ready for planting. If you are buying plants and want to keep costs down, know that 9-cm plants will be the most economical, while 1-liter or 2-liter plants will provide more instant impact. That said, those small plants will have caught up with the larger plants within one season and definitely within two seasons. If you’ve got time, growing some of the plants from seeds or cuttings will be the most economical of all. You can also divide plants from elsewhere in the garden, too, creating more plants for free. (See Your First Garden: How to Start a Garden for Practically Free for other ideas.)
2. Enrich the soil.
Above: Preparing the planting area.
I widened the existing border as much as I could while still leaving a path through the middle. At this point it can feel like there’s a lot of space, but once plants mature and grow over the edges this central path will narrow considerably. As this area has poor very free-draining soil, I dug in well-rotted manure through the whole border to prepare it for planting; whatever your soil type, the most beneficial thing you can do at the outset is to add as much compost as you can to enrich the soil.
3. Lay out the plants.
Above: Laying out the plants.
Place all of your plants along the border where you think you’ll want to plant them. Then spend some time considering how the plants will look as they grow. Think about how wide they will spread and allow enough space for plants to grow (check the plant label for approximate dimensions). Group perennials together in threes or loose triangles which will create more impact with blocks and color. What you are trying to create is a naturalistic feeling rather than regimented order. (See A Garden from Scratch: How to Choose Plants and Put Them Together for my tips on plant composition.)
Repeat some plants through the length of the border to help create rhythm. In this border, Alchemilla mollis, Geranium ‘Rozanne’ and Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foester’ are repeated down the length of the bed. And leave space for self seeders—over time, if you prefer a more naturalistic look and you’re happy to encourage self-seeders, your border will fill out with these volunteer plants. This border has several self-seeders, especially Salvia turkestanica, Digitalis parviflora and D. ferruginea gigantea, and occasionally Baptisia australis and Alchemilla mollis, creating free plants and a more abundant and lush border.
Swagkeys reminds us just how far custom keyboards – and their prices – have come. The company’s upcoming Transition Lite TKL will take you back to the ’90s with its transparent polycarbonate case. It’s a kit, so you’ll have to get stabilizers, switches, and keycaps separately and then put it all together yourself. But for only $50, this is an awesome deal.
Adding a bird bath is one of the best ways to increase the number of songbirds and wildlife in your garden. When set on the ground, birds use it for drinking, bathing, and cooling down. Here’s how to make your own DIY concrete bird bath using a rhubarb leaf!
The first time I tasted a tart rhubarb stalk dipped in sugar, I was hooked! The flavour is surprisingly complex for a stem, and when matched with something sweet, it’s a little slice of heaven.
The leaves, on the other hand, are not so tasty (which is good since they are toxic), but it’s such a pity that this prolific plant doesn’t have more culinary uses.
This DIY concrete bird bath is my attempt to get a little more out of my rhubarb plants. The ruffled and very large leaves make a wonderful mould for a bird bath. Once cast in concrete, these rhubarb leaves will live on forever and supply garden birds with a watering hole.
Here’s how you can make your own concrete leaf bird bath!
This is an easy weekend project.
Harvesting Rhubarb
To start this project, you’ll need some big, juicy leaves. We also want to make sure we’re not harming the rhubarb when we pick the leaves.
Let a new plant grow for two years before harvesting any stocks, and only take one-third of the plant in year three and beyond. After that, you can harvest the plant pretty heavily, leaving the smaller stalks behind after six to eight weeks of pulling off stems for pie and bird baths.
For this rhubarb leaf bird bath, choose a firm leaf with a strong shape (if you can find any without holes, then congratulations, you have won the slug war!).
It’s best to start this project at the beginning of the season when the leaves are strongest and less chewed. A few nibbles or holes are expected in an organic garden and won’t take away from the final project.
Choose your leaf carefully, and try to use it fresh for your mould.
How to Make a Concrete Leaf Bird Bath
If you’ve never worked with concrete before, this is a great first project to try out. It’s simple but creates a beautiful result that you can display in your garden while helping the local birds.
*Choose a lightweight concrete mix (less gravel) for a smoother finished product. Or, choose a heavier-weight concrete mix (more gravel) if the stones will be in high-traffic areas. The best concrete for small, decorative projects is repair concrete, which has no large pieces of gravel in it.
The bowl doesn’t need to be too deep to be effective for the birds.
Make It!
Wear protective gloves, glasses, and a mask, and mix the concrete according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
While the measurements and mixing instructions will be on the package, in general, you will want a large container to mix a whole bag at once. An old wheelbarrow is ideal as the height makes mixing a bit easier.
First, add the concrete to the container, then pour the recommended measure of water into the center. Stir thoroughly and use immediately. The consistency should be on the drier, firmer side. Add more dry mix if it is too runny.
You can also use a bucket for mixing.
Build a firm mound in the soil in the shape you want your bird bath to take.
Your mound will determine the shape of your bowl.
Lay the plastic drop cloth over the mound and place the leaf, vein-side up, on it.
Make sure the leaf’s vein is facing upwards to get the best imprint.
Spray the back of the leaf thoroughly with cooking spray or brush with oil.
Any vegetable oil will work for this.
Pile the concrete onto the leaf and pat it all around to compress the concrete and remove air bubbles. Spread the concrete to just 1/2″ from the edge of the leaf and gently round the extra 1/2″ of the leaf over the edge of the concrete. This will give the edges a more refined look.
Use your gloves to smooth out the edges for a more refined look.
Wrap the concrete in plastic and allow it to dry for 12 hours if the outside temperature is hot and dry or 24 hours if it is cooler and more humid.
Avoid doing this project if rain is in the forecast.
Gently peel off the leaf before the concrete is set, being mindful that it can easily break or crack at this stage. Generally, it’s preferable to wait until the concrete is completely dry to unmold it, but often, this leaves more plant material behind in the crevices.
Allow the concrete to cure completely according to the package instructions, then use a stiff bristle brush to scrub off any remaining plant material. You may also use a chisel and hammer to remove any concrete that has escaped the confines of the leaf, leaving the bird bath in a finished but still natural shape.
Set the concrete bird bath upright in the garden, on a raised wood stump or atop some overturned clay pots.
Leaving it closer to the ground will also allow other local wildlife to use the bird bath.
Caring for Your Concrete Bird Bath
Your concrete bird bath will handle the sun, the rain, and anything the warm weather can throw its way. But once the cold creeps in, you might want to retire your bird bath for the year.
Concrete is a porous material that is prone to cracking and chipping if not properly maintained. You can’t let water freeze in it, as this will cause small cracks.
Before the winter, drain it and bring it indoors where it is dry. Alternatively, you can drain it and cover it with something like a tarp until the springtime.
Frequently Asked Questions About Concrete Bird Baths
Is concrete safe for bird baths?
Concrete is safe for birds and one of the most effective ways to make a bird bath. The leaf imprint keeps them beautiful as well as functional for the birds.
Many bird baths you buy have been glazed for appearance and to make them easier to clean. But birds don’t like the glazing, finding it slippery and uncomfortable while trying to use the water.
Can you fix a broken concrete bird bath?
If your DIY concrete bird bath becomes cracked, you can resurface it. To do this, you will spread a layer of new concrete atop the old one, ensuring it’s moist and clean before applying the new layer of concrete. Apply the layer of concrete, then use a new leaf or two to get a new imprint.
Make a Bird-Friendly Backyard
Rhubarb Leaf Concrete Bird Bath
Attract more songbirds to your garden with this easy weekend project.
Safety gear (rubber gloves, face mask, apron, eye protection, etc.)
Wheelbarrow or large bucket
Water source
Old trowel
Plastic drop cloth
Stiff bristle brush
Chisel and hammer (optional)
Large rhubarb leaf
Repair concrete*see note
Vegetable oil or cooking spray
Put on protective gloves, glasses, and a mask. Mix the concrete according to the package instructions. The consistency should be on the drier, firmer side.
In your garden bed, build a dirt mound in the shape you want your bird bath to take.
Lay a plastic sheet overtop and place your rhubarb leaf on the plastic with the leaf vein facing up.
Spray the leaf with cooking spray or brush with oil.
Add a layer of concrete onto the leaf, gently patting it to remove air bubbles and to take its shape. Spread until you’re ½” away from the leaf’s edge, then gently round the edge of the leaf over the concrete to give the edges a refined look.
Wrap the concrete in plastic and allow it to dry for 12 hours if hot or 24 hours if it’s cooler outside.
Gently peel the leaf off the concrete before it’s fully dry.
Let the concrete cure fully according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Use a stiff brush to scrub off any remaining plant materials.
Set your bird bath out in the garden!
For a smoother finish use lightweight concrete mix. For high-traffic areas, use heavier-weight concrete. Repair concrete is great for small, decorative projects.
You don’t have to be a handyman to make this swing gate design. After being quoted an obscene amount for my own driveway swing gate, I took matters into my own hands. Here’s how I made my own wood swing gate using existing fence panels and some easy to source hardware.
It’s been a while since I shared one of my DIY building projects. Now that I’m in my new house, I can work on these big projects again and share with you my process.
One of the first things I worked on in my backyard was my back driveway swing gate. I needed it right away as a place to park my trailer.
With not a ton of room in my backyard, it took a little problem solving to come up with a swing gate design that would work for my property. But I’m so happy with how it turned out!
Now, I know that swing gates aren’t necessarily the exciting part of building a backyard garden, but let me geek out for a second and share this swing gate design with you. If you’re in need of something similar, hopefully, this will help you come up with your own innovative swinging driveway gates.
Here’s what I’ll be covering today…
The swing gate opens into the alleyway, allowing me to easily back my trailer into the backyard.
Before the Wood Swing Gate
In my backyard, I have a standard cedar fence. Originally, the entire back of the fence was one 8 ft. panel followed by a gate with a swing pedestrian door and then two more 8 ft. panels.
My goal was to get my trailer in the backyard. Not only would this allow me to store the trailer on my property, but also provide a guest house for visitors. And it also just looks so darn cute in my backyard!
At first, I was thinking of getting some aluminum gates so that I could drive the trailer into the backyard and also open up the backyard directly into the alley to get lots of space.
But I couldn’t believe my eyes when I was quoted $15,000 for installing an aluminum gate. It seemed so ridiculously high!
Next, I looked into having somebody build a big roller gate. Unfortunately, roller gates need quite a lot of room for the size of the gate I needed for it to roll and slide to the sides, so that option was out.
The swing gate seemed like the next best option!
My original fence was cedar, so I used a cedar fence panel to match.
My Swing Gate Design
The first step in designing my swing gate was to remove the existing fence panels. With the help of a friend, we removed two of my fence panels, as well as the center post that was originally holding the two panels together side by side.
I replaced the panels with new 8 ft. by 6 ft. cedar panels. These are just the typical fence panels you can get at most large box hardware stores.
Next, we needed to increase the width of the two panels by securing 2×4 boards on either panel edge so they would sit between the panel and the fence post. With the center post removed, the two panels could now meet in the middle.
You can see the 2×4 secured between the gate panel and the post to increase its width just enough.
Hardware
For my wood swing gate, I attached each panel to the fence using three heavy-duty t-hinges. The hinges are fully extendable, so they open up and press completely flat to the other side of the fence when I want to open up to the alley.
These hinges were crucial in my design, as they allowed me to fully open the gate into the alleyway without taking up additional space in my small backyard.
We also got a gate latch to keep the two gates closed. To install it, we needed to cut out part of the premade fence panels. The latch is mounted to the 2×4 boards that we attached to the panels.
You can also get a latch that you can lock if you want to keep your gate more secure.
Wheels
To complete the DIY driveway gate, we added roller wheels. Now I won’t lie and say that they’re a little bit flimsy, and I would recommend something more substantial if you were creating a similar design.
But I won’t be opening my gate very often, only to let my trailer in and out and on the occasional big yard work day. When I need to open my gate, I’m very careful. It’s certainly a little wobbly upon opening, but it works perfectly fine for what I need.
If you intend to open the gate often, I would invest in high-quality wheels. I just used basic roller wheels.
Where to Buy the Wood Swing Gate Materials
For my wood swing gate, I used the typical standard cedar fence panels (8 ft. wide by 6 ft. tall) that you can purchase at Home Depot or other big-box stores.
If possible, I highly recommend you get them directly from the manufacturers rather than the big box stores because they’re much better quality. Anyone who makes cedar fencing products is a good option.
I ended up getting mine from a box store because I only needed two and it was easier for me to just grab them. But they’ve already started warping. This means I’ll have to replace them sooner rather than later.
Ideally, your gate should last just as long as any other fence panels. So, if you can, get your wood panels from a cedar fence manufacturer rather than a big box store.
You can also stain your wood if you want a specific colour or want to match the colour of your existing fence.
How Much Did My Double Swing Gate Cost?
My double swing gate cost less than $1000 overall. It is a super inexpensive solution that works perfectly for what I needed—way better than that $15,000 quote!
For all the materials, it was about $700, and I had the help of a friend for the installation, so that lowered the labour costs.
The hardware didn’t cost much, and I didn’t need much beyond the hinges, latch, and wheels. The pre-made fence panels were very easy to get and also meant less hands-on building was required.
Overall, I’m very happy with how my DIY driveway gate turned out and it ended up costing was less than I initially thought.
If you make a similar swing gate design, let me know how this works out in the comments below! I’d love to hear how you make your own double swing gate.
Do your plants need to be repotted? What are the signs they have outgrown their pots? How do you actually repot anyway? Will repotting hurt your plant? Repotting isn’t hard. Let’s get started. N.B.: Featured photograph by Justine Hand, from DIY: How to Care for Aloe Vera, the Plant of Immortality. What are the signs your […]
