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Tag: dermatologist

  • You May Want to Consider Adding Vitamin E Into Your Skin-Care Routine – POPSUGAR Australia

    You May Want to Consider Adding Vitamin E Into Your Skin-Care Routine – POPSUGAR Australia

    There are so many skin-care ingredients found in your favorite products that it may be hard to keep track of all of their benefits. For example, we all know that vitamin C is good to use in the morning, but its exact benefits may not be top of mind. The same can be said for a powerhouse ingredient you’ve probably seen in quite a few of your favorite serums, body lotions, and face creams – vitamin E.

    Vitamin E is one of those ingredients that has an impressive amount of benefits that almost anyone’s skin can reap. Once you see it listed on the packaging of a formulation, it’ll likely pop up again and again. But what exactly does using vitamin E for skin do? We tapped two dermatologists to lay it all out for us. Ahead, find the benefits of vitamin E for skin and how to use it in your routine.


    Experts Featured in This Article

    Anna Karp, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at SINY Derm in New York City and a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at NYU.

    Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified, fellowship-trained cosmetic dermatologist, co-founder of Modern Dermatology, CT, and an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Yale.


    What Is Vitamin E?

    “Vitamin E is a vitamin that has moisturizing and antioxidant properties,” dermatologist Anna Karp tells PS. It is derived from vitamin E, which is found in fats and oils that come from animal products, nuts, and fruits and vegetables. In beauty, it’s often found in lotion, creams, and gel formulations. “On ingredient lists, you may see it referred to as tocopherol or alpha-tocopherol.”

    What Are Vitamin E’s Benefits For Skin?

    As an antioxidant, vitamin E “helps to neutralize free radicals from the environment and sun that can damage the skin and contribute to premature aging,” Dr. Karp says. Vitamin E also has anti-inflammatory properties and is fat-soluble, so it can penetrate our skin’s lipid barrier easily.

    “Vitamin E combats free-radical damage from environmental stressors and toxins; as a humectant, it helps to draw moisture into the skin from the environment,” dermatologist Deanne Mraz Robinson, says. “As an emollient, it softens the skin barrier and helps to lock in moisture beneath, preventing trans-epidermal water loss.”

    Vitamin E can also soften and moisturize skin, reduce swelling and redness, and can help heal burns and wounds. Those with eczema, psoriasis, and itchy skin may find relief when using a product with vitamin E.

    How to Use Vitamin E in Your Routine

    Vitamin E is oil-soluble, meaning it’s delivered well in a lotion or serum. It’s found in many skin-care products because it has so many benefits, but it can also be used as a stand-alone product.
    “If your skin is sensitive, try it in a lotion or moisturizer vs. a serum and see how your skin reacts,” Dr. Mraz says. “Serms are formulated for optional absorption, while lotions and moisturizers work on the outer and upper layers of the skin where they are less likely to cause irritation.”

    Is Vitamin E Suitable For All Skin Types?

    Most people are able to tolerate vitamin E fairly well, especially as an ingredient in other products. However, it’s the delivery mechanism that matters when it comes to using this ingredient on your skin.

    “I do not recommend pure vitamin E oil if you have oily skin or are prone to breakouts,” Dr. Karp says. “If you have sensitive skin, you can always do a small patch test on your forearm to make sure your skin does not have any reaction to the product.”

    “If you have acne-prone skin, you will want to skip a vitamin E oil and opt for a lighter-weight serum or lotion. If your skin is dry, on the other hand, you might choose to go for an oil,” Dr. Mraz says. “It’s important to look at the accompanying ingredients in the skin-care products to avoid comedogenic ones and anything your skin might be sensitive to.”


    Sydney Wingfield has been a freelance writer in the beauty and wellness space for six years. She has written for Women’s Health, Marie Claire, Glamour, and other publications and loves to cover all things skin care, makeup, and hair.


    Sydney wingfield

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  • Acne Flare-Up? We Ask the Experts For the Best Acne Treatments – POPSUGAR Australia

    Acne Flare-Up? We Ask the Experts For the Best Acne Treatments – POPSUGAR Australia

    Acne is a word bandied around in the beauty industry a lot, which means there is a lot of misunderstanding when it comes to the different types of acne, how it should be treated and how to diagnose it. Although it is most prevalent in the UK for 16-24 year olds (35 per cent), just under half of all adults will experience ‘problem skin’ and a third will go on to develop adult acne.

    “Adult acne has many similarities to acne in adolescent years with regard to both causes and treatments but can have its own distinctive symptoms and signs too,” explains Dr Sonia Khorana, a GP and dermatology expert. “Adult acne can present with more inflammatory, red papules and sometimes fewer blackheads or whiteheads compared to adolescent acne. It usually affects the lower face, particularly the jawline/chin, the area below the jawline, the neck, and sometimes the chest,” she tells POPSUGAR UK.

    If acne is causing you concern, or you want some information on how to help you get your acne under control and prevent further flare ups we spoke to some of the top skin specialists and dermatologists in the UK to find out all the answers.

    What are the main causes of acne?

    When discussing acne, in general you need to consider the following causes: excess oil production, pores becoming clogged by skin cells/sebum and therefore getting affected by inflammation and bacteria, or cystic acne. Although all the aforementioned play a role, there are some other factors to consider specifically when discussing adult acne:

  • Menstrual cycle and hormones and influence of oil/sebum production
  • Products that you may use on your hair – hair pomades, oils and products which could transfer on to your face and clog pores
  • Medications – corticosteroids, lithium
  • Gym supplements – anabolic steroids
  • Diet can play a role for some people (high glycaemic index foods)
  • Stress
  • Genetics
  • Medical conditions like PCOS
  • “It is still not fully understood what all the causes of acne are,” says Tule Parks, founder of Skin Diligent, a company she launched after her daughter developed acne and she wanted to understand the causes and treatment better. “However, we do know hormones and the gut microbiome have an important influence on acne. In the case of hormones, we know that too much androgens (the sex hormones) play a role in excess sebum creation, oestrogen and stress hormones like cortisol also play roles. For this reason, it may be simpler to say that deregulation of hormones (in plural) could be one of the causes of acne,” she tells POPSUGAR UK.

    “Conventionally, acne has been considered as a genetic skin condition,” she continues. “But we now know thanks to more and more research, that acne is epigenetics – in other words, the food we eat, the assault of toxins in our bodies, and the stress we don’t manage, all have an effect on the development of acne. We may be predisposed to having acne, but our lifestyle choices have a much bigger role in acne.”

    How Should You Treat Acne?

    “A multi-pronged approach works best when it comes to acne,” says CeraVe dermatologist, Dr Alexis Granite. “Therefore it is important to optimise a patient’s entire skin care regimen, incorporating oil free products that provide hydration whilst not clogging the pores, as many acne medications may be drying.”

    Dr Granite believes supplements can help support the skin and for some patients, dietary modifications, may also play a role in the management of acne, but unfortunately not enough to control the condition on its own. “For mild acne, prescription creams such as retinoids and topical antibiotics are a mainstay of treatment,” she tells POPSUGAR UK. “For more moderate to severe acne, oral antibiotics, hormonal treatment such as oral contraceptives or spironolactone, or isotretinoin may also be used.

    However, according to Parks this isn’t always the best strategy. “The legislation on these medicines changed a few months ago, and now a GP or a dermatologist can no longer prescribe this drug without a seeking secondary medical advice,” she explains. “Finally, the conventional practitioners are getting some sense that the overall health risks may outweigh the benefits of this drug.”

    This is why there has been a big movement within the dermatologist and skin care community to push for a more holistic approach which considers all the different causes, as well as what will work for your skin. If you are concerned you should always contact your GP and seek information from the NHS

    Are there any ingredients you should avoid if you have blemish prone skin?

    According to Dr Granite, during a flare-up and to prevent further blemishes, you should avoid rich essential oils and heavy emollients. “These can exacerbate acne by clogging pores and causing congestion,” she explains. “Over-stripping the skin with harsh cleansers can also worsen spots by disrupting the skin barrier, so it’s important to strike a balance between a thorough cleanse whilst not over-drying.”

    She also recommends avoiding mineral oil, petrolatum, essential oils, cocoa and shea butters for those prone to breakouts so it may be worth checking the back of your labels if you’re going through a particularly bad period with your acne. “It’s important when dealing with acne to strike a delicate balance between efficacy and potential for irritation. Many of the ingredients we use to fight blemishes can be drying including salicylic acid, AHAs, benzoyl peroxide and retinoids. When acne-fighting ingredients are in overly-stripping products or are overused, sensitivity and irritation can then occur, leading to potentially more breakouts and/or product intolerance.”

    Are there any ingredients you should include in your skincare regime?

    “This is a controversial question as the conventional treatments will push for efficiency without any regards to the side effects,” says Parks. “Contrary to what many people say, well balanced oils are friends of acne sufferers with a damaged skin barrier (as a result of the harsh treatments they have been using, not caused by acne). So it is important to use good oils, not avoid all products with oils.” Parks also recommends adding anti inflammatory ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, into your skincare treatments as well introducing certain acids (BHAs like salicylic Acid) and AHAs to help slough off the dead skin cells, azelaic acid, and well balanced non-saturated oils like jojoba, moringa oils, for improving hydration levels.

    The Best on the Spot Acne Treatments

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  • What Type of Acne Do I Have? Take This Quiz to Find Out – POPSUGAR Australia

    What Type of Acne Do I Have? Take This Quiz to Find Out – POPSUGAR Australia

    Navigating the world of acne is no easy feat – there are hundreds of the best acne products geared toward treating it and endless contradicting advice on what to do if you have it. But before you even get into the nuanced options of treatment, you first need to be able to identify the acne type you have. This allows you to better understand the stages your pimple is likely to go through.

    Not all acne is the same, and within one person, multiple different types of pimples can present themselves. They each fall into one of two categories: noninflammatory and inflammatory. To help you distinguish between different types of acne and learn how to treat acne of all varieties, we tapped a dermatologist to break down the details of every type of breakout.

    It’s important to note: “There is no one-size-fits-all treatment for acne,” David Lortscher, MD, board-certified dermatologist and CEO and founder of Curology, tells POPSUGAR. “What works for one person might not work for someone else.”

    Acne Types:

    Whiteheads

    Whiteheads, otherwise known as closed comedones, are one of the most well-known types of acne and occur when oil and dead skin cells clog a pore. They’re considered to be noninflammatory acne. “They are covered by a thin layer of skin,” says Dr. Lortscher. “Because of this, the contents of the whitehead are not exposed to air, so they appear white or yellowish.” If you’re unclear on the difference between whiteheads vs. blackheads, just consider the look of these pimples – whiteheads have a white center while blackheads are dark.

    Because they’re close to the surface, a good whitehead treatment typically involves topicals, such as over-the-counter cream. Using a benzoyl-peroxide cleanser often improves the issue. The American Academy of Dermatology Association also recommends trying a retinoid, which can be bought without a prescription. Extractions are also an option, but they should only be done by a professional like a dermatologist or aesthetician.

    Blackheads

    Another form of noninflammatory acne is blackheads, aka closed comedones. They occur the same way as whiteheads – by dead skin cells and oil being trapped under the skin – except they don’t present as a raised bump and instead appear as dark dots in the skin. “Oxidation of the trapped substances makes the pimple look black,” Dr. Lortscher says.

    The blackhead treatment protocol is similar to that of whiteheads – try a benzoyl peroxide cleanser and look for other products that will gently exfoliate away dead skin cells to keep them from getting stuck in your pores.

    Papules

    When it comes to the inflammatory category of acne, the pimples become a bit harder to differentiate at home. “Papules are tender bumps with redness and swelling caused by inflammation,” Dr. Lortscher says. “They are usually less than 5mm.” These tiny bumps can feel hard to the touch and can be grouped together in large clusters.

    One of the best papules treatment plans is a benzoyl-peroxide or salicylic-acid cleanser, but if the issue persists, you should see a dermatologist. Because of their similar names, many people are often confused about the difference between papules vs. pustules – but they’re not the same.

    Pustules

    Next, you have pustules, another form of inflammatory acne. They are “inflamed lesions with a visible central core of pus and are usually raised about 1-5 mm.” They can be mistaken for whiteheads due to their white core, but they’re larger in size.

    It can be tempting to try to pop a pustule to get rid of it quicker, given that it’s filled with white or yellow fluid and near the surface of the skin, but this can potentially cause scarring. As far as pustules treatment options go, it’s best to incorporate a benzoyl-peroxide or salicylic-acid cleanser into your skin-care routine twice a day.

    “Hydrocolloid bandages are helpful in covering the lesions overnight, or up to 24 hours, and help draw out the contents of the lesion and speed healing,” Dr. Lortscher says. Acne patches are also great if you have a habit of picking at your zits.

    Cysts

    Cysts, or cystic acne, have a reputation for being particularly stubborn and challenging to treat, not to mention painful. That’s because Dr. Lortscher says they’re “highly inflamed” and deep under the skin. Cystic pimples also have a tendency to leave behind scarring.

    Because cysts are deep under the skin, they typically don’t respond well to OTC topical treatments. “You’ll do best to see a dermatologist in person or online via telemedicine,” Dr. Lortscher says. “For acne that does not respond to the usual treatment, oral antibiotics may be used.” Common oral acne medications include spironolactone and Isotretinoin (formerly known as Accutane). If a cystic zit pops up right before an important event, cortisone injections administered by a doctor can also help clear the breakout fast.

    Nodules

    The last pimples in the inflammatory category are nodules. “[They’re] large, firm, reddish bumps that extend deeper than a papule and are often painful,” Dr. Lortscher says. These are the types of pimples that are impossible to pop.

    Similar to cysts, nodules don’t typically respond well to topical treatments, so seeing a dermatologist is the best route.

    Quiz: What Type of Acne Do I Have?

    1. How would you describe your acne?
    A) Small, pus-filled bumps with a visible white or yellow center. I can’t really feel them.
    B) Tiny, black dots on my face with a high concentration around my T-zone.
    C) Large, swollen bumps that I can’t easily see, but, boy, do I feel them. They also take forever to go away.
    D) Small, red bumps that feel hard when I touch them. They usually appear in clusters on my face.
    E) Big, red, painful bumps all over my face that don’t have a visible white center of pus.
    F) Larger bumps with a white, pus-filled center that are tempting to pop.

    2. Do you notice a white pus in the center of your breakout?
    A) Yes, there are many tiny, white pimples.
    B) No, the center is more black.
    C) I can’t see any white – only red, swollen bumps that feel like they are under the skin.
    D) No white center, but they do feel hard to the touch.
    E) My pimples are more red than anything.
    F) Yes, and they are so tempting to pop.

    3. Where is your acne located on your body?
    A) Mostly on my T-zone.
    B) All over my nose and a little bit on my chin.
    C) Mainly on my jaw, cheeks, or the lower half of my face.
    D) All over my cheeks.
    E) All over my face.
    F) On my face but also on my back and chest.

    4. Does your acne hurt to the touch?
    A) No, not at all.
    B) No, there’s no bump to touch.
    C) Yes, in the deep, under-the-skin type of way.
    D) A little bit, but nothing too bad.
    E) Yes, it is very painful.
    F) Occasionally, but not usually.

    Results

    If You Got Mostly A’s: It Sounds Like You Have Whiteheads
    You might have whiteheads, or closed comedones, which are considered to be noninflammatory acne and can occur anywhere on the face. They occur when oil and dead skin cells clog a pore, and are also typically accompanied by an oily T-zone. You should be able to identify this type of acne because they have a distinct look.

    If You Got Mostly B’s: It Sounds Like You Have Blackheads
    If your acne looks like tiny dark dots on your face, you probably have blackheads, aka closed comedones. They’re one of the most easily identified types of acne (just be sure you’re not confusing them with sebaceous filaments) and tend to be textured, thick, and waxy. Unlike other pimples that cause a raised bump on the skin, blackheads are flush with the skin.

    If You Got Mostly C’s: It Sounds Like You Have Cystic Acne
    You might have cystic acne, the most severe and chronic type of acne. Cysts are the type of pimples that you can feel coming days before they fully form. Unlike pustules and whiteheads, they often begin to develop deep beneath the skin, which makes them particularly challenging to treat. When picked at, cystic pimples have a tendency to leave behind scarring.

    Hormonal acne can often present itself in the form of cysts. Most people who menstruate and experience this get breakouts on their jawline around the time of their period. This type of acne is almost always best treated with the help of a dermatologist.

    If You Got Mostly D’s: It Sounds Like You Have Papules Acne
    It sounds like you might have papules, a type of inflammatory acne. This means your pimples are usually raised, red, and occasionally tender to the touch. They’re also smaller than cysts or nodules. These tiny bumps can feel hard to the touch and can be grouped together in large clusters.

    If You Got Mostly E’s: It Sounds Like You Have Nodules Acne
    Not to be confused with cysts, nodules are deep, large, firm, reddish bumps. Like cysts, they’re difficult to pop but they differ in their appearance: they create a hard, visible bump on the surface of the skin.

    If You Got Mostly F’s: It Sounds Like You Have Pustule Acne
    You might have the acne type called pustules, which are pus-filled zits that look similar to whiteheads in appearance because they have a white core, but they’re much larger in size. This type of pimple is usually tempting to pop because there is raised white pus, but you should refrain from touching it because it can lead to scarring.

    Jessica harrington

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  • What Is Niacinamide? The Scoop on This Skin-Brightening, Acne-Fighting Ingredient – POPSUGAR Australia

    What Is Niacinamide? The Scoop on This Skin-Brightening, Acne-Fighting Ingredient – POPSUGAR Australia

    Hyaluronic acid, retinol, vitamin E, peptides, salicylic acid – it’s easy to feel like you need a beauty dictionary to keep track of every skin-care ingredient and its respective benefits. Niacinamide is another gold standard in the world of skin care, but unlike vitamin C, which is a household name at this point, many people still aren’t exactly sure what it does.

    That’s why we asked the experts to explain exactly what niacinamide is, what it does for your skin, how to use it, and more. Keep reading to get the full scoop on this powerhouse of a skin-brightening, acne-fighting ingredient.

    What Is Niacinamide?

    Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B-3 – an essential nutrient for your body. “In addition to being in skin-care and supplement form, vitamin B-3 can be found as niacinamide in animal products, like meat, and as nicotinic acid in plant-based options like seeds and leafy greens,” Geeta Yadav, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skin Science Dermatology, tells POPSUGAR. Being deficient in vitamin B-3 can have various health implications, but when used topically, it has many benefits for the skin (more on that later). Beauty products formulated with niacinamide typically contain up to four percent of the ingredient.

    What Are the Skin-Care Benefits of Niacinamide?

    When used topically on the skin, niacinamide has a variety of benefits. “Niacinamide is a powerhouse ingredient and a favorite of mine and many other dermatologists,” Dr. Yadav says. “It has been shown to protect against ultraviolet damage that can cause skin cancers, calms redness and inflammation, [and] helps reduce itch and retain moisture in the skin.” Ellen Marmur, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of MMSkincare, added: “Niacinamide increases natural lipids on the skin and reduces water loss, thereby reducing pore size. It can also improve skin texture.”

    Because of its ability to brighten and smooth uneven skin tones, it’s regarded as an efficacious ingredient for fading dark spots and acne scars, and niacinamide’s anti-inflammatory properties make it great for treating active acne. What’s more, the ingredient helps reduce excessive oil production, therefore preventing future breakouts.

    Is Niacinamide Safe For All Skin Types?

    Thanks to its wide range of benefits, everyone can gain something from adding niacinamide into their skin-care routine, and Dr. Marmur says it’s a “gentle enough ingredient that it doesn’t irritate most skin types.” That said, some people benefit from this superstar ingredient more than others, and that includes people with sensitive, acne-prone skin types.

    “It’s also an amazing tool for those with rosacea, or other inflammatory issues, as well as those looking for a gentle way to prevent the signs of aging,” Dr. Yadav says. Dr. Marmur added: “In rare cases, it can cause redness, but this is not common. It’s typically very soothing for the skin.”

    How Do You Use Niacinamide In Your Routine?

    Aside from supplements, the best way to use niacinamide in your regimen is by incorporating a serum or cream formulated with it. “For the best results, you should use a product containing niacinamide twice daily,” Dr. Marmur says. “Niacinamide typically takes 8-12 weeks to work if you’re using it regularly.”

    Generally speaking, niacinamide plays well with other skin-care ingredients but “some argue that niacinamide can cause the potency and integrity of vitamin C to weaken,” Dr. Yadav says. According to Dr. Marmur, you should also avoid using products with AHA’s and BHA’s at the same time because it can cause skin flushing and irritation, as well as cancel out the benefits of niacinamide.

    Jessica harrington

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  • Fact or Fiction: Does Oily Skin Age Better Than Dry? – POPSUGAR Australia

    Fact or Fiction: Does Oily Skin Age Better Than Dry? – POPSUGAR Australia

    The beauty business is full of misinformation and hollow claims, which makes it hard to determine what’s what. A positive side effect of social media is it has granted many people access to industry pros, bringing 24/7 expert advice to the tips of your fingers. But for every TikTok-famous board-certified doctor clearing things up on the app, there are likely 10 more people giving downright incorrect information.

    For example, every few decades a rumor circulates that hemorrhoid cream is a good solution for undereye bags, and don’t even get us started on the old wives’ tale that you should put toothpaste on your pimples. Another claim you might have heard is that oily skin ages better than dry skin, but is it true?

    Skin types are broken up into five main categories: normal, oily, dry, combination, and sensitive. Each has distinctive characteristics – oily skin is often prone to breakouts while dry skin has trouble retaining moisture, frequently leading to discomfort and flakiness. Determining what your skin type is can be beneficial in a myriad of ways, from finding the right skin-care routine to knowing what products to try and what to skip. But does your skin type make you more or less susceptible to fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of premature aging?

    Keep reading to learn whether this is fact or fiction from three dermatologists.

    Behind the Claim

    “Some people may find that oily skin ages better than dry skin, as the natural oils help to nourish the skin and keep the skin looking healthy, plumper, dewy, and refreshed,” Marisa Garshick, MD, FAAD, a New York City-based dermatologist and TruSkin brand partner, tells POPSUGAR. On the other hand, Kiran Mian, MD, FAAD, a board-certified medical and aesthetic dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology & Laser Surgery, says, “In dry skin, fine lines, wrinkles, and even demarcation between skin cells is more apparent.”

    Much of this claim is based on appearances. “Dry skin is less forgiving,” says Dr. Mian. Meanwhile, oily skin also has a tendency to look glowy and more naturally radiant, which can camouflage other skin imperfections. There have also been studies to back this up.

    Let’s get a little nerdy for a second and really break down why this is. When referring to dry skin types, “Research, including insights from Tagami (2008) and Makrantonaki and Zouboulis (2007), suggests that a dry environment can contribute to epidermal hyperplasia, inflammation, and an accelerated aging process. The underlying mechanism is tied to the vital role of stratum corneum (which is the top layer of the skin) hydration in maintaining optimal skin function and a supple appearance,” says Ali Shahbaz, MD, FRCPC, a board-certified dermatologist at Westlake Dermatology in Austin, TX.

    In contrast, oily skin contains higher levels of natural lipids. “The increased presence of these lipids aids in the formation of a protective barrier, preventing water loss and sustaining skin functions,” says Dr. Shahbaz. “This protective barrier helps mitigate the development of wrinkles, laxity, and roughness often associated with drier skin conditions.”

    That said, the doctors all emphasize that this doesn’t mean you’re doomed to age faster or more overtly if you have a dry skin type, and there are many things within your control that are bigger contributors. “Aging of skin in actuality is due to UV damage and oxidative damage, leading to denaturation of collagen, the appearance of sun spots and unwanted pigmentation, as well as redness over time,” says Dr. Mian. “Those manifestations of aging are not related to oily versus dry skin. It’s the appearance of fine lines in dry skin that can cause it to look older.”

    If you have dry skin and are concerned about premature aging, there are a few things to keep in mind.

    Aging Tips For Dry Skin Types

    If you haven’t already gathered from the above information, hydration is important. It’s normal for the skin to become drier as you age. Cellular turnover slows and your epidermis loses the ability to hold moisture as well, in addition to producing less of its own oils.

    To start, you should use a gentle, hydrating cleanser to avoid stripping the skin. Then, consider adding a serum, face mist, and a good moisturizer into your routine. “It is important to remember to moisturize the skin to help boost hydration, as well as to help protect and support the skin barrier,” says Dr. Garshick. “Using thicker, moisturizing creams and ointments are often preferred compared to lightweight lotions as these help to lock moisture in.”

    Hydrating skin-care ingredients to look for include ceramides, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, glycerin, and peptides. “It is important to avoid harsh soaps and abrasive scrubs, which can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to further moisture loss and skin irritation,” says Garshick. That said, exfoliation is still an important part of a balanced skin-care regimen.

    Dr. Mian recommends a “gentle chemical exfoliant once a week to remove dead skin cells and help other skin care penetrate more effectively.” If you’re unable to tolerate stronger ingredients like retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids, and beta hydroxy acids, consider trying bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative that’s considered to be more moderate.

    Jessica harrington

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  • Vitiligo: More Than Just a Cosmetic Condition

    Vitiligo: More Than Just a Cosmetic Condition

    By Lauri Vargo, MD, assistant professor of dermatology, University of Nebraska Medical Center, Omaha, as told to Susan Bernstein 

    Vitiligo is largely a chronic disease with an unpredictable course, so treatment can be challenging for many people. Every person responds differently to different medications. First, I establish their goals and expectations for their treatment.

    The mainstay of treatment for vitiligo starting out includes different topical creams, light therapy, and oral steroids. But the world of dermatology is ever-evolving, so new treatments are emerging now for vitiligo. If we need to, we can turn to a toolbox of newer treatments. There is a lot of good research and evidence behind some of our older therapies for vitiligo, and most dermatologists will start with these treatments. 

    Vitiligo May Be Autoimmune

    What causes vitiligo is still largely unknown. We think there’s an autoimmune component to it. Vitiligo is typically associated with other autoimmune conditions. Going through your history is extremely important in vitiligo. Autoimmune thyroid disease is one of the most common conditions we see in someone who has vitiligo. 

     

    There are some newer therapies for vitiligo, and I typically use those when we haven’t seen any improvement with the older treatments. We have to weigh all of the risks and benefits of any treatment. We have to think about the potential side effects of any treatment, and cost is also a big issue for some patients. 

    There are many new and exciting medications in dermatology, but access to them can be a big barrier. Older therapies are better covered by insurance. I don’t want to offer someone a topical cream that they can’t afford when they go to pick it up at the pharmacy.

    Start With Topicals and Light Therapy

    For vitiligo, we start with topicals and light therapy. We create each treatment plan on an individual basis because vitiligo can be a hard, frustrating condition to treat. People typically have lifelong disease and must continue their treatment. There’s no guarantee that we will be able to restore [skin] pigmentation or that your skin will return to normal. 

     

    One of the newer medications for vitiligo are janus kinase inhibitors, also known as JAK inhibitors. None of these are currently FDA approved for the treatment of vitiligo, but this will likely soon change. 

    With this new class of oral and topical medications, we have to address the potential side effects that come along with treatment. 

    Excitingly, we do have a topical version of one of these medications called ruxolitinib, which is currently used in eczema treatment. There have been some encouraging studies for it in the treatment of vitiligo, including facial vitiligo. 

    Typically, when we use topicals, we don’t get as concerned about systemic side effects. However, with these topical JAK inhibitors, including ruxolitinib, we are still unsure [how much of the drug you absorb through your skin] and how it could relate to potential side effects. That’s still a question.

    Protect Eyes and Skin

    There are other health risks for people who have vitiligo. Our melanocytes are cells that give us our pigment and protect our skin from the sun. So when you lack pigment-producing cells, you’re at greater risk for sunburn. I talk to all of my patients with vitiligo about how extremely important it is to keep skin covered and to protect your skin from burns. People with vitiligo don’t have that barrier to protect their skin from the sun’s rays.

    I recommend that people with vitiligo or anyone use a sunscreen that’s SPF 30 or above, broad-spectrum, and water-resistant. It’s really important to apply enough sunscreen to your skin and to reapply it also. Most people don’t apply enough sunscreen to their skin. You need to apply 1 ounce of sunscreen at a time. That’s enough to fill a shot glass. You should reapply it every 2 hours or after sweating or swimming.

    Ultraviolet protection factor or UPF clothing is another thing I recommend. You can find these clothes at many stores these days. This clothing provides extra protection from the sun. It’s really becoming popular with kids, too. Kids are wearing rash guards when they play outdoors. Because we have pigment-producing cells in our eyes, too, it’s important for people with vitiligo to use sunglasses to protect their eyes when they are out in the sun as well.

    Not Just a ‘Cosmetic’ Condition

    Our skin is our biggest and most visible organ. People with any skin condition are at increased risk of low self-esteem and a decrease in their quality of life because of their skin condition. People with vitiligo often are affected by this. I think it’s important for me to educate my patients with vitiligo, especially children, so they can explain what vitiligo is to other people, such as on the playground or in school. I want them to be able to feel comfortable with the skin they’re in. Adults with vitiligo, too, and all of us, are prone to self-esteem issues when it comes to our skin’s appearance. 

    I notice that a lot of people talk about vitiligo therapies as “cosmetic treatments” or vitiligo as a “cosmetic condition.” I feel that the term “cosmetic” suggests that we are taking something normal and enhancing it. But with vitiligo, we are treating your skin condition just as we would any other health condition you have. 

    If you have vitiligo symptoms, coming in for a diagnosis from your dermatologist is important. That’s because other skin conditions can mimic or look like vitiligo. There are some rarer conditions we want to rule out first. There are some allergic skin conditions that can look like vitiligo. 

    Makeup and Self-Tanners 

    One thing I talk about with my patients is a makeup product called Dermablend to cover up skin. You may also use self-tanning products with dihydroxyacetone. Using a self-tanner product is completely OK if you have vitiligo. You can use it to cover up skin lesions if you want a more even appearance. If you go out and get a tan, you will only tan the rest of your skin. 

    I often recommend light therapy to people with vitiligo. This is one of my favorite treatments for this condition. It’s also called phototherapy. It’s a treatment that uses directed ultraviolet rays. Sometimes, when I recommend light therapy, my patients say, “Aren’t you a dermatologist? I thought the sun is bad for your skin!” But this type of light therapy should only be done as directed by a dermatologist.

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  • Vitiligo: My Life With This Skin Condition

    Vitiligo: My Life With This Skin Condition

    By Mark Braxton, as told to Kendall Morgan

    In 1996, I discovered a small white spot on my thumb. It itched. I thought it was a scab or something. I didn’t think too much about it. Then, I started noticing other small white spots. They were spreading.

    The first dermatologist I went to looked at me and walked right back out of the room. He came back in with a pamphlet and said, “This is what you have: vitiligo.” At that time, there wasn’t a lot of information. The doctor gave me a topical cream for it. I tried it for 6 months. It didn’t seem to me it was helping, so I stopped. I felt deflated.

    Thankfully, when I went to another dermatologist, it was a different experience. He shook my hand. He knew immediately I wanted to know about the spots. He explained that I have vitiligo, which is a skin condition. It’s not contagious, which is important for people to know. There’s no cure or way to stop the loss of skin color. He told me that it could spread or maybe some of the pigment would come back. Then he asked me a question I didn’t expect, “How is your self-esteem?”

    At that time, I felt good. It was just a couple of small spots. Over the years, as it started to spread and I could see changes, I started to feel more insecure. I have it around my mouth now and all over my body in spots. I stopped wearing shorts. I stopped going to the beach and the pool. I would avoid social settings where people could look at me. It was insecurity and sometimes slight depression and anxiety.

    The mental aspect is probably the biggest challenge I’ve dealt with. Vitiligo changed my outlook on myself. I didn’t see myself how others saw me. I struggled socially with friendships and relationships. One of the worst things I’ve found that people can say is that it doesn’t bother them. I understand you may say it doesn’t bother you, but until you walk in my shoes, you don’t understand. You don’t have to look in the mirror watching your body or skin change over time. There’s this fear of the unknown.

    I haven’t sought treatment, although it has been offered. The creams I tried at first didn’t seem to help. Light therapy is an option, but it’s time consuming and I didn’t want to risk getting burned. I thought I could do this all on my own. In 2019, I realized I’d been failing. Something a child said helped me start to shift my perspective. I was working at a camp and this little girl told me that I was a butterfly. She identified my spots as a butterfly, as something beautiful.

    I decided it was time to open up. I joined the North Carolina Vitiligo Support Community after avoiding it for years. It was the best decision I ever made. For so long, my vitiligo was something that I never talked about. My family and friends didn’t know how I felt about it. I started sharing my journey with other people, and it helped so much.

    I’m now one of two leaders for the North Carolina Vitiligo Support Community in Raleigh,. I’m also on the board of directors for VITFriends, which is a national organization that nurtures peer-to-peer relationships in the vitiligo community. I host a podcast called Living Life and Love, where others with vitiligo can share their journey. I found that sharing my own journey with such a large audience released me from a personal prison I’d been living in for too long.

    Having this skin condition has opened my eyes in many ways. I’ve come to a place of acceptance. I’ve learned how to live with vitiligo and love myself. Some days are still hard if someone whispers or stares too hard. Kids are often curious and that’s OK. I try to educate people about what vitiligo is.

    When it comes down to it, my skin looks different, but I still have interests, hobbies, and talents. I enjoy writing poetry and short stories. I like to paint and draw and be creative. I’m a big fan of science fiction and superheroes. We all have much more in common than we don’t. I’ve gone from being insecure to being secure in myself. I often say that it’s a process for all of us in the vitiligo community. Every journey is different. Everyone has a story to tell.

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  • Vitiligo: Challenges for the Newly Diagnosed

    Vitiligo: Challenges for the Newly Diagnosed

    By Nada M. Elbuluk, MD, as told to Susan Bernstein

    One of the most challenging aspects of generalized vitiligo is how much it will progress. This is different for each person. People who are newly diagnosed often ask: “How much will it spread or how stable will it be?” Some people may have stable disease for years. But others may have vitiligo that spreads at any point in their lifetime. If you’re on treatment, this can help your condition stay stable. If not, you can develop new patches.

    [Choosing to camouflage vitiligo] is a very personal decision. Each person with vitiligo handles this differently. Some people want to conceal it. Other people are more comfortable with the way their skin looks and they don’t want to wear makeup. First, we will have a conversation about camouflage. I want to know how you feel emotionally about your skin’s appearance. I may also ask, “Do you want to begin treatment, or have your treatments not responded?” There are makeup products for vitiligo that you can acquire over the counter. Some people also use self-tanners that help to camouflage the areas of skin.

    I also direct people to different support resources that are available, such as the Global Vitiligo Foundation. They have a section on their website about support resources for patients with vitiligo, as well as support groups across the nation. It may help you manage your feelings to meet with other people who also have vitiligo. Talking with others in a support group can be a very supportive, positive experience. There are online support groups for vitiligo, too. I try to suggest credible sources of information online.

    Emotional Impact of Skin Color Changes

    Research has conclusively shown that you can have a profound psychosocial and emotional impact from vitiligo. For one, you no longer feel that you have control over how you look — how your skin appears. Vitiligo changes your skin’s color, and you may develop white patches anywhere on your body, including your face. There is also a great deal of variability in vitiligo and how extensive it is on your body. People also feel uncertain about their vitiligo’s progress: Will I have a flare? Will these patches get bigger?

    Vitiligo can affect people of all skin colors. I have patients of all colors. We see it in both

    adults and children. It can first appear earlier in life, but it can develop when you’re an adult. For children, it can be difficult to understand what is happening to them, and it can also be difficult for other children they are around to understand it.

    Therapy and support groups for people living with vitiligo can be very helpful. It depends on the degree to which you are affected, but seeing a psychologist or psychiatrist can be helpful, too. We encourage any individual who is feeling any negative emotions to seek medical care.

    Famous Role Models Decrease Stigma

    Winnie Harlow was one of the first people with vitiligo to be public about it in a proud way. She is beautiful and a successful model, and she often models without using makeup to cover her vitiligo. This has helped decrease the stigma of vitiligo. There has been a positive wave in recent years about self-acceptance in general. People are starting to accept beauty in all forms which is so important. CoverGirl also recently selected their first spokesmodel with vitiligo. Mattel released a Barbie doll with vitiligo. You are seeing retail stores and marketing campaigns using models with vitiligo.

    Self-acceptance of your vitiligo doesn’t take away the need to have treatment options for those who want them. But everyone should know that they are beautiful and have self-worth. It’s important to educate our society about vitiligo. People may ask you if it is contagious — it is not. My patients also ask if it is hereditary. While there is a genetic and hereditary component to vitiligo, the chances of it occurring in the next generation is low. There is less than a 10% chance that you will pass it down to your children.

    Protect Your Skin From Sun Exposure

    If you are not treating it and just choose to live with your vitiligo as is, then you may not need to see your dermatologist regularly. If you are on treatment, or if you have vitiligo that is spreading quickly, then usually, you should see a board-certified dermatologist every couple of months just to monitor your condition and any changes.

    My message to anyone who questions if they have vitiligo or if they’ve been diagnosed with vitiligo is to see a board-certified dermatologist, particularly one who specializes in vitiligo treatment. Again, it is completely up to each person if they want to seek treatment for it or not. Your dermatologist can guide you and talk you through all of your options.

    If you have vitiligo, you should wear a sunscreen of 30 SPF or higher, just as we would recommend to anyone. We used to worry that people with vitiligo were at increased risk of skin cancer. However, with more research, we have found that this is not the case, and in fact, you’re at lower risk of melanoma. Still, we recommend sunscreen as a general precaution, and if you’re out in the sun all day, reapply it every 2 hours.

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  • Vitiligo: Treatment Options and Innovations

    Vitiligo: Treatment Options and Innovations

    By Bassel H. Mahmoud, MD, PhD, as told to Susan Bernstein

    Vitiligo is mainly an autoimmune disease of the skin that targets pigment-producing cells called melanocytes. This results in patches of depigmentation in the form of chalky white areas on the skin that can range from very small to very large, even covering most of the skin surface.

    Vitiligo affects anywhere from 0.5% to 2% of the population, both adults and children, and affects people of all ethnic groups and all skin types. Vitiligo, although most of the time considered a cosmetic problem, can have a devastating psychological effect on patients and can affect their quality of life.

    Treatments for vitiligo include topical and systemic immunosuppressant medications. The one that may be best for you depends on how extensive and active your disease is. There is also phototherapy, which uses ultraviolet light and laser. Other options include surgical treatment.

    Immune T cells Attack Pigment Cells

    Recent research studies have looked at the pathogenesis of vitiligo, which simply means the chain of events leading to this disease. These studies showed that vitiligo is an interferon-gamma driven disease leading to recruitment of CD8-positive T cells. These are cytotoxic T cells that engage with the melanocytes, or cells producing pigment in the skin, and kill them. Now that we have a better idea of how vitiligo occurs, we can develop better treatments to address this process. These newer treatments target and block these chains of events.

    Recently developed drugs for vitiligo that have shown promising results are Janus

    kinase (JAK) inhibitors. Examples include ruxolitinib and tofacitinib. Both are immune-suppressing medications that disrupt the cytokine signaling in the interferon-gamma pathway. Some of these new medicines can be used at topic creams or taken by mouth. It does take a few months to start seeing repigmentation of the vitiligo skin.

    Many conventional treatments are still used and can be effective for vitiligo, such as oral and topical corticosteroids, which can have side effects if taken for a longer period of time, even topical steroids. The main side effect of topical steroids is skin atrophy, thinning of the skin. Calcineurin inhibitors, such as tacrolimus, are nonsteroidal alternative topical treatments, and they do not have the risk of skin thinning.

    Light and Laser Treatments

    Phototherapy is also a common, conventional treatment for vitiligo. The most used is narrow-band ultraviolet B light. It’s effective and relatively safe when used under supervision of a board-certified dermatologist. Another type of phototherapy is called PUVA, which is still used in some countries, but studies show that if it’s used for too long, it can cause skin cancer.

    Previously, phototherapy treatments were done only at the dermatologist’s office two to three times a week. While it only takes a few seconds to a few minutes to get the treatment, you would still have to leave your work or school to come to your doctor’s office. Now, there are home phototherapy devices available, including many that are covered by insurance with a dermatologist’s prescription.

    There is also a laser treatment for vitiligo called excimer laser. You must go to your doctor’s office for this treatment. A machine is used to target the vitiligo areas of the skin with an excimer laser. This treatment is in the ultraviolet range, but it’s a laser, not light. It’s stronger and can have a good effect on the areas that do not respond to treatment with UV light. You need to get the treatment two to three times a week.

    New Cell and Tissue Transplant Surgeries

    Cell transplant surgery is an option for recalcitrant vitiligo, which means when your vitiligo patches fail to respond to other conventional medications or light therapies. There are very few places in the U.S. that offer this surgery; one of them is at our department of dermatology at the University of Massachusetts. In vitiligo, there is a loss of the melanocytes in your skin, but the hair follicles in this area may have it and act as a reservoir of melanocytes. But if the hair also becomes white, then the reservoir of melanocytes is lost, and this vitiligo area will not respond to conventional therapy, and this is when a cell transplant procedure would yield the best outcome.

    One type of surgical treatment is tissue transplant, such as punch grafting from normal skin and applying it to the vitiligo area. But the surface area to treat with this type of transplant is very limited. Also, the outcome is not optimum as it can cause a “cobblestone” look, which may be cosmetically unacceptable.

    The other type of surgical option, which is the one I perform, is a cell transplant technique. We take a small amount of normal skin from a donor area, usually a hidden area on the body such as the upper thigh or buttock. Then, we extract the melanocytes from it and suspend them in a solution. While doing this step, we use a laser to resurface the vitiligo areas. Then, when the cells are ready, we apply them to the vitiligo patches and cover them with a bandage. This technique only requires a small area of skin to be taken from the donor site to cover a much larger area of vitiligo, which is a major advantage. The outcome leads to homogenous repigmentation without the cobblestone effect. The procedure is all done under local anesthesia as an outpatient procedure. The complications are minimal with excellent outcomes.

    Talk About Your Options

    When a patient with vitiligo comes into our office, they are counseled regarding the nature of their condition, different treatment options, techniques, and complications in detail. Then we come up with the best treatment plan for you. There are also many resources to help you understand vitiligo and treatment options that can be found on the American Academy of Dermatology’s website, so please visit www.aad.org for more information on skin, hair, and nail health, and www.umassmed.edu/vitiligo/ for our Vitiligo Clinic and Research Center at UMass.

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