This is my Grandma Mary’s simple green salad and one my family has made for years.
Grab your favorite greens, some dill, a cuke, and an onion, and toss them in a zippy quick vinaigrette. It’s a go-to for almost any meal.
It’s a fresh and light side salad that’s quick and easy too.
This crisp green salad goes with anything and can also be the base for a ‘protein’ salad as a wrap filling or energizing workday lunch.
The lemon dressing doubles as a marinade for chicken, fish, or shrimp, or as a dressing for pasta salad, so feel free to make extra!
Ingredients and Add-Ins
Greens: Butter lettuce and/or red leaf lettuce make this simple green salad crisp and delicious. Romaine and even iceberg lettuce will work, too.
Dill: Fresh dill adds from-the-garden flavor to a simple green salad, but you can also use mint, parsley, cilantro, basil, and even celery leaves. If substituting dried dill weed, add it to the dressing and let the dressing refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
Cucumber: Use Persian or English cucumbers for a green salad as they are denser and will stay crisp longer. However, use what you’ve got!
Onions: White onions are sweet but can have a ‘bite.’ Soak slices in ice water while preparing the rest of the salad. Pat them dry and toss them in. Sliced green onions or chives are also good alternatives.
My Grandma’s Salad Dressing
This salad is all about the dressing—it’s easy, just add it to a jar and shake!
Use a light-flavored oil like light olive oil, vegetable, or avocado oil.
Add fresh lemon juice, Dijon, sugar, vinegar, and salt & pepper.
How to Make a Green Salad
This simple salad with a quick vinaigrette is a crisp and refreshing side to any entrée!
Place dressing ingredients in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake to combine.
Add salad ingredients to a large bowl.
Toss with dressing and serve immediately.
Other Additions
Sprinkle on some toasted almonds, sunflower seeds, pepitas, or a handful of dried cranberries.
Crumbled feta, parmesan cheese, or goat cheese are great additions.
Add sliced radishes, cherry tomatoes, or other fresh veggies (and fresh herbs) for more color.
How to Keep Salad Fresh
Store the salad and dressing separately. Wash the greens and store them in a covered container with a piece of paper towel in the fridge for up to 1 week.
More Salad Recipes You’ll Love
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Simple Green Salad
Fresh dill, cucumber, and onion are tossed with greens in a simple lemon dressing to make this fresh and easy salad.
Prep Time 10 minutesminutes
Cook Time 0 minutesminutes
Total Time 10 minutesminutes
Prevent your screen from going dark
In a mason jar, combine oil, vinegar, lemon juice, Dijon mustard, sugar, and salt & pepper. Shake vigorously to mix.
In a large salad bowl, combine greens, dill, cucumber, and onion.
Drizzle with dressing, toss, and serve immediately.
Thinly sliced radishes or ⅓ cup crumbled feta cheese can be added to this salad.
Gardening in the low desert of Arizona during July is difficult. Learn how to maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in July and navigate the challenges of hot weather to ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, and what to plant. I’ve also included a helpful “July Garden Task Checklist.”
July is typically the hottest month in the low desert. Monsoons may bring humidity and moisture, but they may not. It’s essential to pay attention to your plants’ watering needs this month. The average temperature is 107°F (41.6°C), and the average rainfall is 1.22 inches. When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.
What To Do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during July:
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
A few keys to gardening during July in the low desert include:
Clear out squash and other plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease to make room for monsoon and fall planting.
Don’t prune or fertilize most plants. Most need to be in summer dormancy to survive. Pruning can expose new areas to sunlight damage, and fertilizing can cause stress.
Bell peppers can get sunburned if fruits get direct sun; provide some shade if scalding is a problem.
Tomatoes may be finishing up. Remove spent or diseased plants. Note which varieties you liked and which did well. If tomato plants still look healthy, let them stay in the garden and keep them alive. They will produce again when temperatures fall.
Cucumber production slows or even stops this month as temperatures heat up. Pull plants if necessary if cucumbers are bitter or pests or diseases are an issue. Plant Armenian cucumbers in their place. Although other cucumbers may not like the heat, Armenian cucumbers thrive all summer.
Pot up any indoor-grown seedlings outgrowing their containers if it is not time to plant them outside. Fertilize indoor-grown seedlings every other watering.
Go through your seeds and plan for fall and winter planting.
Onion blooms have developed seeds. Save them and try growing your own from seed. You can also save bolted parsley and dill seeds.
Possible Harvests This Month:
Roma tomatoes
Harvest crops early in the day when temperatures are cooler, and their moisture content is higher. Bring harvests inside right away to prolong storage life and increase food quality.
Here’s a tip for cucumbers after harvesting: Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the increase storage life and keep cucumbers crisp.
Immersing cucumbers in ice water cools them quickly
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)
Vegetable Watering Guidelines:
Hopefully, monsoon humidity and added moisture will come to the low desert this month. A rain gauge is helpful for measuring how much rain you receive. If you measure .5 inches of rain, check that the rain penetrated your soil and then turn off your water timer. You can also insert a screwdriver into grass or rocks to determine whether to water. If it passes easily into the soil, you can wait to water. Monitor plants for signs of stress and ensure they get enough water and have good drainage.
During hot weather, annual vegetables need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-3 days, allowing the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
During July, I usually water my raised beds every other day.I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller
SUBSCRIBE TO MY GARDEN JOURNAL
Receive exclusive insights directly from my garden to your inbox with “GITG Academy + Low Desert Tips.”
Twice a month, I share my personal garden journal. From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert. As a member, you have access to the past 3 years of garden journals and monthly classes.
Join me, and let’s make your garden thrive under the desert sun!
Low Desert Arizona in July: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month
Monitor plants for pests and diseases. If plants are struggling or overwhelmed with pests, it is often best to remove them rather than treat them. The heat is stressful for plants – they probably won’t recover if they are overtaken.
Damage from leaf-cutter bees
Common Pests During July:
You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.
Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant. This post will teach you more about preventing and controlling squash bugs.
Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.
You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs will take care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them with water.
Spray off beans with water to discourage spider mites
If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
A soapy bucket of water is essential for catching squash bugs and leaf-footed bugs
Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
Other common pests include katydids, crickets, and grasshoppers. Birds and spiders are natural predators.
Milkweed and other seed bugs are common on seed pods and best left untreated; they usually don’t cause damage.
Lovebirds on branching sunflowers in Mesa, Arizona
Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:
Abandoned cicada exoskeletons on a vitex trunk
During July, the hum of cicadas often fills the air. They emerge from the soil and love warm, humid temperatures. Cicadas are Important pollinators and a food source for other animals.
Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves.
Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
Other wildlife may include lizards, hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths.
Keep your chickens cool by providing water for them to stand in. Consider adding a misting stand. Keeping them hydrated with extra cucumbers and watermelon can also help.
Gulf Fritillary caterpillar
Low Desert Arizona in July: Container Gardening Tips
If possible, put small containers away until the fall. Use the soil from the containers as mulch or add to compost.
Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.
Container Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
During July, I usually water my containers every other day and fill up the ollas each time I water. Adding ollas to containers helps with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Arizona gardening in July wouldn’t be the same without sunflowers! I love this branching variety. They are everywhere in my yard, and I love them. There are many reasons to plant sunflowers: they provide shade, can be used as a trellis, attract wildlife and pollinators, and are simple to grow from seed in nearly any spot in your yard.
Rudbeckia attracts pollinators, grows well from seed, and makes an excellent cut flower.
Tithonia is a heat-loving favorite that also makes an excellent cover crop.
Globe Amaranth thrives in the heat with consistent watering. I like to harvest the flowers for cut flowers. I’ve planted them in my flower beds and throughout my garden beds to attract pollinators.
Cut back spent hollyhocks and save the seeds this month. Leave the roots in place.
Zinnias are a champion of Arizona gardening in July. Give them consistent moisture, and enjoy the lovely blooms! They are also excellent cut flowers.
Zinnias growing up through trellis netting for cut flowers
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each flower)
Bee balm
Flower Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Looking for more ideas for flowers that can take the heat of an Arizona summer? This article shares my favorite ones with tips for how to grow them.
Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post. Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day are the best times to do this. However, it is beneficial at any time of year and will not burn plants.
Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests.
Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
Anna’s apple harvests finish up this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
Monitor grapes and blackberries for harvest readiness. Cover to protect from birds if necessary.
Shade newly planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
Grapes
Citrus:
Citrus is developing on all the citrus trees throughout the yard. Last month, the trees self-thinned, and the fruit that is left on the tree is growing well. Citrus trees appreciate the monsoon rains and higher humidity this month.
Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.
Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Grapefruit in July
Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Mrs. Burn’s lemon basil
Lemongrass grows quickly in the heat.
Lightly harvest perennial Herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano. Cutting back too much can be stressful.
Mint doesn’t look great over the summer. When temperatures moderate in the fall it will rebound.
Basil is the champion herb of summer. The more you harvest, the more it will grow. Use it and preserve it by freezing or freeze-drying.
Harvest seeds from bolting parsley, fennel, and dill.
Bolted fennel
Herb Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.
Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.
Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Sparky Tecoma
Prepare for monsoon winds by staking any small trees requiring extra support and properly pruning trees and shrubs. If limbs or branches break, prune back to the main trunk if possible. Learn more about preparing for monsoons in this blog post.
Tecoma is in full bloom and doesn’t mind the heat. Hummingbirds and pollinators love it. This is an excellent addition to an Arizona garden landscape.
Yellow Dot is a vigorous ground cover that grows rapidly in well-drained soil and can grow in full sun or shady areas. It looks great most of the year and provides a living mulch to trees in the summer heat.
Ornamental Sweet Potato Vine is a fast grower available in several colors. Lavish greenery and filler even in the hottest months. This vine is easy to start from cuttings; root in water first and then plant. It’s that simple. Regular watering keeps it lush. Learn more about how to grow sweet potato vine in this article.
July is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
If plants die, don’t replace them. Instead, look around at other plants in your neighborhood growing well for replacement ideas. For desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert. Wait to plant until the fall.
If stinknet sprouts in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread. If the flowers are dried and the plant is dead, remove it carefully— it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert
Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and July is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
If you are considering removing Bermuda grass, July is an excellent time. Learn more in this blog post.
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Low Desert Arizona in July: Flower seeds to start indoors
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Sources:
1 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.
We have an uncanny ability to pick out the subtle distinctions in calorie density of foods, but only within the natural range.
The traditional medical view on obesity, as summed up nearly a century ago: “All obese persons are, alike in one fundamental respect,—they literally overeat.” While this may be true in a technical sense, it is in reference to overeating calories, not food. Our primitive urge to overindulge is selective. People don’t tend to lust for lettuce. We have a natural inborn preference for sweet, starchy, or fatty foods because that’s where the calories are concentrated.
Think about hunting and gathering efficiency. We used to have to work hard for our food. Prehistorically, it didn’t make sense to spend all day collecting types of food that on average don’t provide at least a day’s worth of calories. You would have been better off staying back at the cave. So, we evolved to crave foods with the biggest caloric bang for their buck.
If you were able to steadily forage a pound of food an hour and it had 250 calories per pound, it might take you ten hours just to break even on your calories for the day. But if you were gathering something with 500 calories a pound, you could be done in five hours and spend the next five working on your cave paintings. So, the greater the energy density—that is, the more calories per pound—the more efficient the foraging. We developed an acute ability to discriminate foods based on calorie density and to instinctively desire the densest.
If you study the fruit and vegetable preferences of four-year-old children, what they like correlates with calorie density. As you can see in the graph below and at 1:52 in my video Friday Favorites: Cut the Calorie-Rich-And-Processed Foods, they prefer bananas over berries and carrots over cucumbers. Isn’t that just a preference for sweetness? No, they also prefer potatoes over peaches and green beans over melon, just like monkeys prefer avocados over bananas. We appear to have an inborn drive to maximize calories per mouthful.
All the foods the researchers tested in the study with four-year-old kids naturally had less than 500 calories per pound. (Bananas topped the chart at about 400.) Something funny happens when you start going above that: We lose our ability to differentiate. Over the natural range of calorie densities, we have an uncanny aptitude to pick out the subtle distinctions. However, once you start heading towards bacon, cheese, and chocolate territory, which can reach thousands of calories per pound, our perceptions become relatively numb to the differences. It’s no wonder since these foods were unknown to our prehistoric brains. It’s like the dodo bird failing to evolve a fear response because they had no natural predators—and we all know how that turned out—or sea turtle hatchlings crawling in the wrong direction towards artificial light rather than the moon. It is aberrant behavior explained by an “evolutionary mismatch.”
The food industry exploits our innate biological vulnerabilities by stripping crops down into almost pure calories—straight sugar, oil (which is pretty much pure fat), and white flour (which is mostly refined starch). It also removes the fiber, because that effectively has zero calories. Run brown rice through a mill to make white rice, and you lose about two-thirds of the fiber. Turn whole-wheat flour into white flour, and lose 75 percent. Or you can run crops through animals (to make meat, dairy, and eggs) and remove 100 percent of the fiber. What you’re left with is CRAP—an acronym used by one of my favorite dieticians, Jeff Novick, for Calorie-Rich And Processed food.
Calories are condensed in the same way plants are turned into addictive drugs like opiates and cocaine: “distillation, crystallization, concentration, and extraction.” They even appear to activate the same reward pathways in the brain. Put people with “food addiction” in an MRI scanner and show them a picture of a chocolate milkshake, and the areas that light up in their brains (as you can see below and at 4:15 in my video) are the same as when cocaine addicts are shown a video of crack smoking. (See those images below and at 4:18 in my video.)
“Food addiction” is a misnomer. People don’t suffer out-of-control eating behaviors to food in general. We don’t tend to compulsively crave carrots. Milkshakes are packed with sugar and fat, two of the signals to our brain of calorie density. When people are asked to rate different foods in terms of cravings and loss of control, most incriminated was a load of CRAP—highly processed foods like donuts, along with cheese and meat. Those least related to problematic eating behaviors? Fruits and vegetables. Calorie density may be the reason people don’t get up in the middle of the night and binge on broccoli.
Animals don’t tend to get fat when they are eating the foods they were designed to eat. There is a confirmed report of free-living primates becoming obese, but that was a troop of baboons who stumbled across the garbage dump at a tourist lodge. The garbage-feeding animals weighed 50 percent more than their wild-feeding counterparts. Sadly, we can suffer the same mismatched fate and become obese by eating garbage, too. For millions of years, before we learned how to hunt, our biology evolved largely on “leaves, roots, fruits, and nuts.” Maybe it would help if we went back to our roots and cut out the CRAP.
A key insight I want to emphasize here is the concept of animal products as the ultimate processed food. Basically, all nutrition grows from the ground: seeds, sunlight, and soil. That’s where all our vitamins come from, all our minerals, all the protein, all the essential amino acids. The only reason there are essential amino acids in a steak is because the cow ate them all from plants. Those amino acids are essential—no animals can make them, including us. We have to eat plants to get them. But we can cut out the middlemoo and get nutrition directly from the Earth, and, in doing so, get all the phytonutrients and fiber that are lost when plants are processed through animals. Even ultraprocessed junk foods may have a tiny bit of fiber remaining, but all is lost when plants are ultra-ultraprocessed through animals.
If you’re familiar with my work, you know that I recommend eating a variety of whole plant foods, as close as possible to the way nature intended. I capture this in my Daily Dozen, which you can download for free here or get the free app (iTunes and Android). On the app, you’ll see that there’s also an option for those looking to lose weight: my 21 Tweaks. But before you go checking them off, be sure to read about the science behind the checklist in my book How Not to Diet. Get it for free at your local public library. If you choose to buy a copy, note that all proceeds from all of my books go to charity.
Gardening in the low desert of Arizona during July is difficult. Learn how to maximize your Arizona garden’s potential in July and navigate the challenges of hot weather to ensure your plants’ survival. Keep reading to learn which tasks to do, how much to water, what pests to expect, and what to plant. I’ve also included a helpful “July Garden Task Checklist.”
July is typically the hottest month in the low desert. Monsoons may bring humidity and moisture, but they may not. It’s essential to pay attention to your plants’ watering needs this month. The average temperature is 107°F (81°C), and the average rainfall is 1.22 inches. When you’re in the garden this month, remember to work outside in the cooler morning and evening hours and stay hydrated.
What To Do in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Click on the title to jump to that section and learn more about what to do during July:
Low desert includes elevations below 3500 ft in the Southwest, such as the Phoenix and Tucson metro areas.
Vegetable Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
A few keys to gardening during July in the low desert include:
Clear out squash and other plants that have stopped producing or show signs of heat stress and disease to make room for monsoon and fall planting.
Don’t prune or fertilize most plants. Most need to be in summer dormancy to survive. Pruning can expose new areas to sunlight damage, and fertilizing can cause stress.
Bell peppers can get sunburned if fruits get direct sun; provide some shade if scalding is a problem.
Tomatoes may be finishing up. Remove spent or diseased plants. Note which varieties you liked and which did well. If tomato plants still look healthy, let them stay in the garden and keep them alive. They will produce again when temperatures fall.
Cucumber production slows or even stops this month as temperatures heat up. Pull plants if necessary if cucumbers are bitter or pests or diseases are an issue. Plant Armenian cucumbers in their place. Although other cucumbers may not like the heat, Armenian cucumbers thrive all summer.
Pot up any indoor-grown seedlings outgrowing their containers if it is not time to plant them outside. Fertilize indoor-grown seedlings every other watering.
Go through your seeds and plan for fall and winter planting.
Onion blooms have developed seeds. Save them and try growing your own from seed. You can also save bolted parsley and dill seeds.
Possible Harvests This Month:
Roma tomatoes
Harvest crops early in the day when temperatures are cooler, and their moisture content is higher. Bring harvests inside right away to prolong storage life and increase food quality.
Here’s a tip for cucumbers after harvesting: Immediately immerse them in cold water to disperse “field heat” to increase the increase storage life and keep cucumbers crisp.
Immersing cucumbers in ice water cools them quickly
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each crop)
Vegetable Watering Guidelines:
Hopefully, monsoon humidity and added moisture will come to the low desert this month. A rain gauge is helpful for measuring how much rain you receive. If you measure .5 inches of rain, check that the rain penetrated your soil and then turn off your water timer. You can also insert a screwdriver into grass or rocks to determine whether to water. If it passes easily into the soil, you can wait to water. Monitor plants for signs of stress and ensure they get enough water and have good drainage.
During hot weather, annual vegetables need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-3 days, allowing the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
During July, I usually water my raised beds every other day.I use the garden grids from Garden in Minutes to water my raised beds. Use code Angela10 to save $10 off $100 or GITG5 to save 5 percent on any size order.
If you haven’t already, check the irrigation system and timer. Run the system; inspect all drips and sprinklers for leaks and proper watering.
Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller
SUBSCRIBE TO MY GARDEN JOURNAL
Receive exclusive insights directly from my garden to your inbox with “GITG Academy + Low Desert Tips.”
Twice a month, I share my personal garden journal. From the first seedling to the last harvest, you can follow my gardening adventures in Arizona’s unique low desert. As a member, you have access to the past 3 years of garden journals and monthly classes.
Join me, and let’s make your garden thrive under the desert sun!
Low Desert Arizona in July: Pests & Wildlife to Watch Out For This Month
Monitor plants for pests and diseases. If plants are struggling or overwhelmed with pests, it is often best to remove them rather than treat them. The heat is stressful for plants – they probably won’t recover if they are overtaken.
Damage from leaf-cutter bees
Common Pests During July:
You may see circles cut out from leaves on roses, pomegranates, and other plants. Leaf-cutter bees are responsible and use the leaves to build their nests. It’s cosmetic damage only and nothing to worry about. These solitary bees are excellent pollinators.
Monitor squash and melon plants for squash bugs in all stages: adults, eggs, and nymphs. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Three-lined potato bugs are a common nuisance on tomatillos and ground cherries. If spotted, check plants several times a day. Keep a soapy bucket handy to drop them into. If numbers increase or get out of hand, consider pulling the plant.
Leaf miners on cantaloupe or other melons. Remove damaged leaves.
You may still have aphids or chrysanthemum lace bugs on sunflowers, but hopefully, beneficial insects like lacewings and ladybugs will take care of them for you. If not, you can remove damaged leaves and spray them with water.
Spray off beans with water to discourage spider mites
Spider mites are common on beans, especially in hot, dry conditions. Spray the area often with water to discourage them. If you need to treat, a combination of Safer Insect Killing Soap and Monterey Horticultural Oil can be effective. Use at sundown and then rinse the leaves well afterward to prevent burning. Follow package instructions and use sparingly– only on affected areas to prevent harming beneficial insects.
If rollie-pollies are eating seedlings (they especially love beans) before they sprout, an effective solution is to sprinkle a small amount of this slug and snail bait when you plant. It is iron phosphate with an attractant for slugs. It’s non-toxic to worms and safe to use.
Monitor tomato, pepper, and eggplants for tomato hornworms. If you see insect frass (droppings) or eaten leaves, look closely for hornworms. Handpick and feed to chickens.
A soapy bucket of water is essential for catching squash bugs and leaf-footed bugs
Monitor pomegranate trees for all stages of leaf-footed bugs. If spotted, daily vigilance and dropping them into a bucket of soapy water are effective solutions to this difficult pest.
Other common pests include katydids, crickets, and grasshoppers. Birds and spiders are natural predators.
Milkweed and other seed bugs are common on seed pods and best left untreated; they usually don’t cause damage.
Lovebirds on branching sunflowers in Mesa, Arizona
Wildlife and Beneficial Insects:
Lovebirds and lesser goldfinch are commonly seen on sunflowers this time of year. They love the seeds, and the lesser goldfinch also enjoy eating the leaves.
Bees, hoverflies, wasps, lacewings, praying mantids, syrphid flies, parasitic wasps, assassin bugs, and other beneficial insects are active now.
Other wildlife may include lizards, hummingbirds, butterflies, and moths.
Keep your chickens cool by providing water for them to stand in. Consider adding a misting stand. Keeping them hydrated with extra cucumbers and watermelon can also help.
Gulf Fritillary caterpillar
Low Desert Arizona in July: Container Gardening Tips
If possible, put small containers away until the fall. Use the soil from the containers as mulch or add to compost.
Move containers to areas of your yard that receive afternoon shade naturally.
Group containers and grow bags close together for an insulating effect.
Container Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, monitoring containers closely and watering often is crucial. You may have to water every day. If you’re not sure, use a moisture meter to check soil moisture levels.
If containers dry out too much, the soil may become hydrophobic. When watering, check the soil to ensure water is absorbed and not repelled by hydrophobic soil.
During July, I usually water my containers every other day and fill up the ollas each time I water. Adding ollas to containers helps with watering during the summer. I use ollas from Growoya. For a discount, use code GROWING.
Flower Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Arizona gardening in July wouldn’t be the same without sunflowers! I love this branching variety. They are everywhere in my yard, and I love them. There are many reasons to plant sunflowers: they provide shade, can be used as a trellis, attract wildlife and pollinators, and are simple to grow from seed in nearly any spot in your yard.
Rudbeckia attracts pollinators, grows well from seed, and makes an excellent cut flower.
Tithonia is a heat-loving favorite that also makes an excellent cover crop.
Globe Amaranth thrives in the heat with consistent watering. I like to harvest the flowers for cut flowers. I’ve planted them in my flower beds and throughout my garden beds to attract pollinators.
Cut back spent hollyhocks and save the seeds this month. Leave the roots in place.
Zinnias are a champion of Arizona gardening in July. Give them consistent moisture, and enjoy the lovely blooms! They are also excellent cut flowers.
Zinnias growing up through trellis netting for cut flowers
(click on the link to read “How to Grow” articles about each flower)
Bee balm
Flower Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual flowers will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Looking for more ideas for flowers that can take the heat of an Arizona summer? This article shares my favorite ones with tips for how to grow them.
Fruit & Fruit Trees in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
If you haven’t already, mulch your trees well. Adding worm castings, compost, and mulch three times a year will prepare and help your trees from high summer temperatures. Learn more in this blog post. Valentine’s Day, Memorial Day, and Labor Day are the best times to do this. However, it is beneficial at any time of year and will not burn plants.
Keep fruit picked up to discourage insects and pests.
Pomegranates may drop some fruit this month. Read this article for more information about how to grow pomegranates.
Anna’s apple harvests finish up this month. Fruit left too long on the plant may cook! Harvest and bring indoors. Here are our favorite recipes to use Anna apples.
Monitor grapes and blackberries for harvest readiness. Cover to protect from birds if necessary.
Shade newly planted fruit trees to help them survive their first summer. Monitor watering closely.
Grapes
Citrus:
Citrus is developing on all the citrus trees throughout the yard. Last month, the trees self-thinned, and the fruit that is left on the tree is growing well. Citrus trees appreciate the monsoon rains and higher humidity this month.
Paint or wrap any trunks exposed to sunlight to protect them from damage. Any water-based paint works to paint citrus. I prefer using tree wraps over paint. It’s like wearing sunscreen versus a swim shirt. The wrap offers better protection.
Monitor your fruit trees for signs of water stress. Leaf curling is usually the first noticeable sign. Wet the soil from the tree trunk to just past the tree’s drip line.
Established citrus trees should be watered once every 7-14 days to a 2-3 feet depth.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Water established fruit trees every 7-10 days to a depth of 18-24″.
Grape vines need deep watering every 5 days.
Water annual fruit and high water use vines every 2-5 days to a depth of 8-12″.
Grapefruit in July
Herb Gardening in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Mrs. Burn’s lemon basil
Lemongrass grows quickly in the heat.
Lightly harvest perennial Herbs like rosemary, thyme, sage, and oregano. Cutting back too much can be stressful.
Mint doesn’t look great over the summer. When temperatures moderate in the fall it will rebound.
Basil is the champion herb of summer. The more you harvest, the more it will grow. Use it and preserve it by freezing or freeze-drying.
Harvest seeds from bolting parsley, fennel, and dill.
Bolted fennel
Herb Watering Guidelines:
As temperatures heat up, annual herbs will need more frequent watering. Water to a depth of about 8-12 inches every 2-4 days; allow the top of the soil to dry out before watering again.
Water desert-adapted landscape perennial herbs (like rosemary) every 7-21 days (water to a depth of 18-24″).
Many Mediterranean herbs, such as sage, rosemary, lavender, oregano, and thyme, are more likely to die from overwatering and root rot in the summer than from underwatering. Take care not to overwater them.
Arizona Herb Planting Guide helps you learn when to plant over 30 different herbs in Arizona and whether to plant seeds or transplants.
Landscape Plants in the Low Desert Arizona Garden in July
Sparky Tecoma
Prepare for monsoon winds by staking any small trees requiring extra support and properly pruning trees and shrubs. If limbs or branches break, prune back to the main trunk if possible. Learn more about preparing for monsoons in this blog post.
Tecoma is in full bloom and doesn’t mind the heat. Hummingbirds and pollinators love it. This is an excellent addition to an Arizona garden landscape.
Yellow Dot is a vigorous ground cover that grows rapidly in well-drained soil and can grow in full sun or shady areas. It looks great most of the year and provides a living mulch to trees in the summer heat.
Ornamental Sweet Potato Vine is a fast grower available in several colors. Lavish greenery and filler even in the hottest months. This vine is easy to start from cuttings; root in water first and then plant. It’s that simple. Regular watering keeps it lush. Learn more about how to grow sweet potato vine in this article.
July is not the month to prune or fertilize landscape plants, trees, and shrubs. Pruning and fertilizing encourage new growth and expose new areas to damaging sunlight, which is stressful for plants when temperatures are above 100°F (38°C).
If plants die, don’t replace them. Instead, look around at other plants in your neighborhood growing well for replacement ideas. For desert-adapted plants that require less water, check this guide, Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert. Wait to plant until the fall.
If stinknet sprouts in your yard, pull it and dispose of it so the seeds do not spread. If the flowers are dried and the plant is dead, remove it carefully— it will shed thousands of seeds. Bag it up in a sealed bag and throw it in the trash.
Landscape Plants for the Arizona Desert
Palms are an exception to planting. They grow and get established best in warm soils, and July is an excellent month to plant them. Keep the roots and area around the roots hydrated to encourage growth into the surrounding soil. Support the plants until they become established to avoid disturbing the growing roots.
If you are considering removing Bermuda grass, July is an excellent time. Learn more in this blog post.
SEED, TRANSPLANT, OR BOTH? S = Seed / T= Transplant
Flowers to Plant Outside & Seeds to Start Indoors Each Month in the Low Desert of Arizona. • PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists annual flowers and bulbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors. • BLOOMING GUIDE: Photos show what may be in bloom that month.
Low Desert Arizona in July: Flower seeds to start indoors
(Click the link for seed sources.)
Sources:
1 – For additional information on watering practices, visit: “Association of Municipal Water Users Authority. (2023). Landscaping with Style in the Arizona Desert.” https://www.amwua.org/landscaping-with-style.
Chickpea Salad combines all of my favorite fresh vegetables in one delicious bite.
Chickpeas are combined with juicy tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, and creamy avocados all tossed in an easy homemade lemon-kissed dressing.
This easy salad recipe is the perfect side dish for almost any meal or a great lunch. Add some protein like grilled chicken breasts to make it a hearty dinner!
It’s incredibly easy to make with almost any salad veggies you love.
This chickpea salad recipe is packed with protein and nutrients and tastes so delicious.
The dressing is fresh and needs just a few ingredients.
It’s great to make ahead and perfect as a side dish or for lunches all week long.
Ingredients in Chickpea Salad
Chickpeas: Also known as garbanzo beans, this recipe calls for canned chickpeas. Be sure to rinse them to remove excess salt.
Cucumbers: Use English, Persian, or baby cucumbers, as they have nice, thin skins and don’t require peeling.
Tomatoes: You can use grape (or cherry tomatoes) or seeded and diced Roma tomatoes.
Bell peppers: Green bell peppers add crunch and flavor. Use red bell peppers for a sweeter flavor.
Parsley: Parsley adds a lot of flavor (and it doesn’t always get enough credit for the freshness it adds!). It can be replaced with other fresh herbs like cilantro or dill.
Variations
This chickpea salad recipe is so versatile. Swap in your favorite vegetables; red pepper for green pepper, white or green onion for red onion.
Try adding kalamata olives or a bit of feta cheese. Feta is quite salty itself, start with less salt when you add the seasonings.
How to Make a Chickpea Salad
Add the veggies and rinsed chickpeas to a bowl (recipe below).
Drizzle with oil, vinegar, and seasonings. Toss to combine.
If using, top with avocado and enjoy!
Chickpea salad will last for up to 5 days in the fridge. If you’re making this ahead of time, cut the avocado just before serving!
Chickpea Salad Dressing
This salad is full of fresh ingredients so I keep the dressing nice and light. A simple mixture of red wine vinegar and olive oil with a hint of seasoning is all that’s needed.
Choosing Olive Oil: Extra virgin olive oil is considered the least processed and most flavorful, while extra light is the most processed and has a much lighter flavor (but it isn’t lighter in fat or calories). We prefer a lighter version of olive oil in this recipe. Vegetable oil or avocado oil will also work.
Fresh and Flavorful Salads
Did your family love this Chickpea Salad? Leave us a rating and a comment below!
4.99 from 363 votes↑ Click stars to rate now! Or to leave a comment, click here!
Chickpea Salad
Chickpeas are mixed with ripe tomatoes, crisp cucumbers, and creamy avocados, coated in a simple lemon-infused dressing.
Prep Time 20 minutesminutes
Cook Time 5 minutesminutes
Chill Time 1 hourhour
Total Time 1 hourhour25 minutesminutes
Prevent your screen from going dark
In a medium bowl, combine tomatoes, cucumber, chickpeas, bell pepper, parsley, and red onion.
Add the olive oil, vinegar, cumin, salt, and pepper. Toss well to combine.
If using, cut the avocado into cubes and place in a small bowl. Squeeze the juice from ½ of a lemon over the avocado and gently stir to combine. (If not using avocado, squeeze 1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice over the salad and toss.
Refrigerate for at least one hour before serving.
Store leftover Chickpea Salad covered in the fridge for up to 5 days.
Cucumber Onion Salad is a favorite summertime salad
Crisp fresh cucumbers are tossed with sweet onion and fresh dill for a light and refreshing side dish.
Ingredients for Cucumber Onion Salad
Cucumber – Any cucumber will do, but my preference is either Persian cucumbers, which are about 5 to 6 inches long, or English cucumbers (also known as seedless or European cucumbers). Both of these varieties have thin skins, a sweeter taste, and smaller seeds.
Dill – For the best flavor, use fresh dill. Other fresh herbs can be used in place, try parsley or chopped fresh basil.
Onion – This recipe uses sweet white onion. Red onions will add a bit more bite.
If you are using regular salad cucumbers or field cucumbers, the peel can be bitter and tough, so remove all or most of it with a vegetable peeler. You can also cut them in half and use a spoon to scrape out the seeds if they’re large.
For the Dressing
Vinegar – Vinegar adds a fresh tang – use either white vinegar, apple cider vinegar or white wine vinegar.
Oil – I use vegetable oil; however, any light-tasting oil can be used.
Sugar – A pinch of sugar adds just enough sweetness to balance the vinegar.
To Make Cucumber Onion Salad
Prep: Slice the cucumber and thinly slice the sweet onion.
Dressing: Combine all ingredients in a large mixing bowl and stir until the sugar dissolves.
Mix: Add the cucumber and onion, toss to coat, and refrigerate before serving.
This cucumber salad recipe has a tangy vinegar dressing; be sure it has time to marinate in the refrigerator for the best flavor. This allows the flavors to blend and mellow out a bit.
Storing Leftovers
Cucumber salad can be made in advance and will keep for 2-3 days. I like to add a little bit of fresh dill when serving.
This cucumber salad recipe is just one of many summer favorites!
Did you enjoy this Cucumber Onion Salad? Be sure to leave a rating and a comment below!
5 from 63 votes↑ Click stars to rate now! Or to leave a comment, click here!
Cucumber Onion Salad
Cucumber onion salad is a tasty and refreshing dish made with crunchy cucumbers, tangy onions, and fresh dill with a hint of vinegar.
Prep Time 20 minutesminutes
Chill Time 1 hourhour
Total Time 1 hourhour20 minutesminutes
Prevent your screen from going dark
Wash cucumbers and peel if desired. Using a knife or mandoline, thinly slice cucumbers and onions.
In a large bowl, combine vinegar, oil, water, and sugar. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved.
Add the cucumbers and onions and toss well to coat. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours, stirring occasionally.
Toss with fresh dill and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Store cucumber onion salad in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2-3 days. Give it a stir before serving again. If using dried dill weed in place of fresh dill, add 2 teaspoons to the dressing before marinating.
Wondering how to grow cucamelons? You’ve come to the right place. Cucamelons may look like a mouse-sized watermelon, but they taste like a cucumber with a citrus kick. Called “sandía de raton” (or “watermelon for a mouse”) in Mexico, cucamelons are also called Mexican Sour Gherkin and Mouse Melon.
No matter what you call them, cucamelons are easy to grow and resistant to pests and disease. Learn how to grow cucamelons and add this crunchy, vitamin-packed fruit to your garden.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
6 Tips for How to Grow Cucamelons
1. Understand how cucamelons grow
Cucamelons are a tender perennial; this means they are sensitive to frost but if cared for properly can live for several seasons. Over the course of a season, cucamelons develop an underground tuber.
At the end of the season in cold climates, dig out and remove the tuber to overwinter in a sheltered location. Once the plant dies back in mild winter areas, mulch the ground around the roots well and it should survive over the winter and begin to regrow in the spring.
2. Plant cucamelons at the right time
Cucamelons thrive in warm, humid weather. Plant cucamelons outside after all danger of frost has passed in the spring, and nighttime temperatures have warmed to about 50℉.
In the low desert of Arizona (and many other hot summer areas), here are the planting dates for cucamelons:
Start seeds indoors: December – March and June – August
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September
In Arizona, spring-planted cucamelons may not produce until cooler temperatures come in the fall. You may get a spring and a fall harvest if you can keep the plant alive over the summer.
The larger spring-planted cucamelon plants often yield a larger harvest than fall-planted cucamelons. The trick with growing cucamelons in dry, hot summer areas like Arizona is to have them survive the summer heat.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
3. Plant cucamelons from seed or transplants in the correct location
In all but the warmest areas, give cucamelons full sun. In very hot summer areas, grow cucamelons in a spot with afternoon shade.
Plant cucamelon seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep. Seeds generally take between 7-14 days to germinate. Because cucamelon seeds germinate slowly, it can be difficult to start them outdoors. You may want tostart seeds indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost, and then transplant them outside. You can also look for transplants at local nurseries.
Space cucamelon plants and seeds about a foot apart in a location with compost-rich, well-draining soil.
Plants tolerate dry conditions, but do best with regular watering.
Fertilize cucamelon plants once or twice during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to encourage fruiting.
Once vines reach about 8 feet, pinch back growing tips to encourage branching and fruiting.
Cucamelons produce male and female flowers. Male flowers wither and die; female flowers develop into fruit after pollination.
5. Give cucamelons something to climb
Cucamelons are a sprawling vine that can be difficult to contain. Provide a trellis for the tendrils to climb as the cucamelon vines grow. Growing cucamelons vertically on a trellis allows for better airflow and helps prevent damage from feet and pests. Ripe cucamelons grown on a trellis are also easier to spot and thus harvest.
6. Harvest cucamelons at the right time
Cucamelons typically begin producing 65-75 days after transplanting. Harvest cucamelons when the fruits are the size of small grapes, firm, and bright green.
Cucamelons left on the vine past their prime will soften and develop a yellow tint. Pick cucamelons often to encourage production. Leaving cucamelons on the plant signals to the plant to stop producing.
Eat cucamelons fresh like grapes (our favorite way) or slice them and add them to salads. Enjoy them pickled (so cute!) or even added to salsa.
Harvested cucamelons will store for 5-7 days in the fridge. I love using these containers to help my produce last longer.
Bonus Tip: Save seeds from cucamelons to plant and share
At the end of the season, leave a few cucamelons on the vine until they are very overripe, soft, and yellow. These are the perfect stage to save seeds from.
How to save cucamelon seeds:
Cut cucamelons in half and scrape seeds into a half-pint glass canning jar.
Fill the jar partway with water.
Allow the water to ferment for 1-2 days (not longer); this removes the gel covering around the seed that prevents germination.
Remove the seeds and pulp that float to the top of the water.
Rinse off the seeds that settle on the bottom of the jar, and let them dry on a paper plate.
Store in a paper seed sleeve in a cool, dry location.
Wondering how to grow cucamelons? You’ve come to the right place. Cucamelons may look like a mouse-sized watermelon, but they taste like a cucumber with a citrus kick. Called “sandía de raton” (or “watermelon for a mouse”) in Mexico, cucamelons are also called Mexican Sour Gherkin and Mouse Melon.
No matter what you call them, cucamelons are easy to grow and resistant to pests and disease. Learn how to grow cucamelons and add this crunchy, vitamin-packed fruit to your garden.
Disclaimer: this post contains affiliate links. See my disclosure policy for more information.
6 Tips for How to Grow Cucamelons
1. Understand how cucamelons grow
Cucamelons are a tender perennial; this means they are sensitive to frost but if cared for properly can live for several seasons. Over the course of a season, cucamelons develop an underground tuber.
At the end of the season in cold climates, dig out and remove the tuber to overwinter in a sheltered location. Once the plant dies back in mild winter areas, mulch the ground around the roots well and it should survive over the winter and begin to regrow in the spring.
2. Plant cucamelons at the right time
Cucamelons thrive in warm, humid weather. Plant cucamelons outside after all danger of frost has passed in the spring, and nighttime temperatures have warmed to about 50℉.
In the low desert of Arizona (and many other hot summer areas), here are the planting dates for cucamelons:
Start seeds indoors: December – March and June – August
Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September
In Arizona, spring-planted cucamelons may not produce until cooler temperatures come in the fall. You may get a spring and a fall harvest if you can keep the plant alive over the summer.
The larger spring-planted cucamelon plants often yield a larger harvest than fall-planted cucamelons. The trick with growing cucamelons in dry, hot summer areas like Arizona is to have them survive the summer heat.
PLANTING GUIDE: Each month lists vegetables, fruit & herbs to plant outside & seeds to start indoors.
HARVEST GUIDE: Photos show what may be ready to harvest that month.
Planting dates are for the low desert of Arizona (zone 9b).
3. Plant cucamelons from seed or transplants in the correct location
In all but the warmest areas, give cucamelons full sun. In very hot summer areas, grow cucamelons in a spot with afternoon shade.
Plant cucamelon seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep. Seeds generally take between 7-14 days to germinate. Because cucamelon seeds germinate slowly, it can be difficult to start them outdoors. You may want tostart seeds indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost, and then transplant them outside. You can also look for transplants at local nurseries.
Space cucamelon plants and seeds about a foot apart in a location with compost-rich, well-draining soil.
Plants tolerate dry conditions, but do best with regular watering.
Fertilize cucamelon plants once or twice during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to encourage fruiting.
Once vines reach about 8 feet, pinch back growing tips to encourage branching and fruiting.
Cucamelons produce male and female flowers. Male flowers wither and die; female flowers develop into fruit after pollination.
5. Give cucamelons something to climb
Cucamelons are a sprawling vine that can be difficult to contain. Provide a trellis for the tendrils to climb as the cucamelon vines grow. Growing cucamelons vertically on a trellis allows for better airflow and helps prevent damage from feet and pests. Ripe cucamelons grown on a trellis are also easier to spot and thus harvest.
6. Harvest cucamelons at the right time
Cucamelons typically begin producing 65-75 days after transplanting. Harvest cucamelons when the fruits are the size of small grapes, firm, and bright green.
Cucamelons left on the vine past their prime will soften and develop a yellow tint. Pick cucamelons often to encourage production. Leaving cucamelons on the plant signals to the plant to stop producing.
Eat cucamelons fresh like grapes (our favorite way) or slice them and add them to salads. Enjoy them pickled (so cute!) or even added to salsa.
Harvested cucamelons will store for 5-7 days in the fridge. I love using these containers to help my produce last longer.
Bonus Tip: Save seeds from cucamelons to plant and share
At the end of the season, leave a few cucamelons on the vine until they are very overripe, soft, and yellow. These are the perfect stage to save seeds from.
How to save cucamelon seeds:
Cut cucamelons in half and scrape seeds into a half-pint glass canning jar.
Fill the jar partway with water.
Allow the water to ferment for 1-2 days (not longer); this removes the gel covering around the seed that prevents germination.
Remove the seeds and pulp that float to the top of the water.
Rinse off the seeds that settle on the bottom of the jar, and let them dry on a paper plate.
Store in a paper seed sleeve in a cool, dry location.
Course Appetizer, Salad, Side Dish
Cuisine American
